# Deer Mount Question



## Dannerman6 (Dec 5, 2009)

Had my first mount done and it looked good when I first picked it up, but when I really looked at it I noticed some things that I have questions about. I have not taken it back yet. I want to learn more about what is good or bad before I complain.

First thing I noticed were two slits in the skin under each eye. totally obvious. Are these natural marks or a slice in the hide when skinning it out? 

The biggest problem I have is that the skin around the base of the antlers has a large gap behind each one. Not noticeable when hanging on the wall, but when showing it off, you can see the gaps. I can understand if it shrunk during tanning, but I would think there would be a way to fill this gap so it is not visible.

I don't have enough posts to add pics yet. I will try to add some to my album in my profile this morning. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first mount and want it to be a good one. thanks.


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## Dannerman6 (Dec 5, 2009)

Have added pics in my profile. Also will be taking my mount to outdoorama to be scored. Probably on Sun. morning.


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## sbooy42 (Mar 6, 2007)

I'm not a taxidermist but I do have few mounts and when I saw the pictures at the top of page before reading your post, the area on the skull jumped right out at me..
The slit under the eyes doesn't look right either..there is a tear duct by the eye but IMO its not suppose to look like that.. Have few guys look at it at the outdoorama and see what they say..

BTW nice buck


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## Biggbear (Aug 14, 2001)

Danner

I looked at your pics and neither problem you have is "normal" or acceptable. The gap at the back of the antler pedicle is from the cape not being pulled tight around the pedicle as it was sewn. That can happen becuase of the way it was caped, a sewing problem, or I've seen it on mounts that a different cape was used. 

The issue at the tear duct in the eyes is from being cut during caping. When you cape around the eyes the tear duct is like a very deep dimple right there, you have to follow the contour of the skull closely to keep from cutting the skin, it's generally a problem that beginners have, but can happen to anyone. The biggest issue is the way it was camoflaged, its just been smeared with something like epoxy-scuplt and painted, in the totally wrong color.

Both problems can be fixed to some extent, the antler issue will be the hardest to deal with, but it could at least be made less noticeable. I would hesitate to take it back where you got it done. I know the first instinct is to take it back and have them make it right, but they're the ones that did it in the first place. I'm not sure where you're at, but I may be able to recommend someone in your area, or if you're near Waterford I could take a look at it for you. 

I'm sorry your first mount has some issues, it's tough to shell out the cash and then get something back that your less than thrilled with.


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## Dannerman6 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks for the information. much appreciated. I live in Westland. I was referred to this guy by someone who had mounts done and had no problems. He had some nice looking mounts in his shop, so I thought it would turn out really nice. Maybe I can let you look at it. I will have some time in one week. I'll send you a pm. thanks again


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## springdale (Dec 19, 2007)

Danner, You can fix the spot around the skull real easy, Take and clip a small amount of hair from the back of the mount (beside the Wall) then while still hold the hair very tight in your fingers run a bead of Elmers glue on it. Still keeping it tight place it in the gap and very lightly tap into place. It will cover it very good and its hard to notice unless you did it yourself. When you clip the hair, hold close to the base and it will hold together nice. Try to match it up as best as possible and you wont have any problems. If you mess it up just wipe it off with warm water on a rag, let it dry and try again. I have done this a few times on my own mounts years ago and it works very well. Its better not to have to do it but it happens to eveyone once in awhile.

The splits can be repaired with epoxy sculp ( its sorta like JB weld ) fill in the holes, then feather them out with a small wire brush. After dry a small amount of paint the color of the hair or skin and you have it. This repair will be much harder to do without a air bursh but it can be done. Maybe better to have a Taxidermist fix this but give it a try, if you dont like it it can be redone without a problem.

Oh by the way, Nice Buck!!!

Springfield Taxidermy.


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## Paul Thompson (Jul 16, 2007)

The "slits" in front of the eyes are not cuts. Those are pre orbital glands that were not properly tucked into place, then covered up with a bandaid type of apoxy sculpt. Judging from the rest of the deer in the pictures, no money was spent on taxidermy lessons. I am surprised that the raggedy ears and wrong eye shape didn't bother you as much as the other flaws.


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## FSUfishin (Jan 25, 2008)

danner. If you don't mind me asking who did your mount? If you are happy with him feel free to PM me his name so it's not public. I want to make sure I don't recomend or use him. I have a feeling I know who did this I'm just confirming.

That's a very nice buck I think I remember when you got it, too bad it's got the problems you have.

I've had recommendations before for Taxidermists, one perticularly I show up and see the work on the walls looks good then I see a few of my buddies that had theirs done there and not so good... Hard to tell a book by it's cover.

This year I was in need of a taxi and went to vist a couple, one guy particularly wanted to know about the hunt, competed in taxi competitions, took two hours to show me what makes a good deer mount, shared hunting stories with me, he was a hunter like myself and loved pursuit and harvest of the game. He has got my business and my recomendations, plus he was the cheapest!! I asked why so reasonable??? his response... I enjoy doing it. Funny part was there were four mounts on the wall each progressively looking better asked why is that? He said this is how I progressed and showed me things like the eyes, nose, antlers, chin whiskers??, lips and mouth, it was interesting to see how he progressed as an artist in his trade. Anyways, might be something to look into next year when you have another giant like the one you got this year. Sorry about this one.


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## UNREEL (Jun 8, 2007)

springdale said:


> Danner, You can fix the spot around the skull real easy, Take and clip a small amount of hair from the back of the mount (beside the Wall) then while still hold the hair very tight in your fingers run a bead of Elmers glue on it. Still keeping it tight place it in the gap and very lightly tap into place. It will cover it very good and its hard to notice unless you did it yourself. When you clip the hair, hold close to the base and it will hold together nice. Try to match it up as best as possible and you wont have any problems. If you mess it up just wipe it off with warm water on a rag, let it dry and try again. I have done this a few times on my own mounts years ago and it works very well. Its better not to have to do it but it happens to eveyone once in awhile.
> 
> The splits can be repaired with epoxy sculp ( its sorta like JB weld ) fill in the holes, then feather them out with a small wire brush. After dry a small amount of paint the color of the hair or skin and you have it. This repair will be much harder to do without a air bursh but it can be done. Maybe better to have a Taxidermist fix this but give it a try, if you dont like it it can be redone without a problem.
> 
> ...


 
He shouldn't have to touch it. I am no taxidermist, but that would be like fixing your own car after paying the mechanic to work on it.

Whoever this hack is, its clear that taxidermy will never be his full time job. Take it to a professional to get fixed, and hopefully learn from your mistake..


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## Brian Jones (Jan 11, 2009)

Definitely take it to somebody, competent and get it fixed. I wouldn't take it back to that hack either. You shouldn't touch it, that's not your responsibility.


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## Mitchell Ulrich (Sep 10, 2007)

UNREEL said:


> He shouldn't have to touch it. I am no taxidermist, but that would be like fixing your own car after paying the mechanic to work on it.
> 
> Whoever this hack is, its clear that taxidermy will never be his full time job. Take it to a professional to get fixed, and hopefully learn from your mistake..


 
If only that statement were true!!!
I know of 2 Taxidermist who have been in business longer than I have (which is closing in on 20 years) who consistently turn out shear crap!!!

It never fails to amaze me, and my friends in the industry, just how it is they stay in business! You can only chase the cheap dollar for so long until word gets around..at least that what we all thought, yet there they still are. Just incredible.


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## Dannerman6 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I will be taking it to a different taxi soon to have it checked out. This guy was recommended, and was not cheap. I guess his work is. I have learned a lesson here and will be more dilligent in the future. Thanks again for the feedback


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## springdale (Dec 19, 2007)

UNREEL said:


> He shouldn't have to touch it. I am no taxidermist, but that would be like fixing your own car after paying the mechanic to work on it.
> 
> Whoever this hack is, its clear that taxidermy will never be his full time job. Take it to a professional to get fixed, and hopefully learn from your mistake..


Hey I agree! He shouldnt have to touch it, but I was trying to help him. The skull fix is the same thing another tax is gonna do to fix it anyway. I really dont believe any one is gonna tear it complety down and start over unless he want to pay another big fee. You cant rehidrate it enough without taking it off the Manikin to pull it back around the base of the antlers. The tear duct fix is about the same, you might soak the face to loosen it enough to tuck it like it should have been, but again its gonna take some doing. It all depends how bad he wants it fixed, if you were closer to me (Fife Lake) I'd fix it for you. Just try the Elmers on the skull and you'll be suprised. Like I said take it off the part that hits the wall hold it tight and cut it short close to your fingers run a bead of glue and place it in the exposed area and you'll have it. I know its not the way it should have been done. Heck the guy that done it may not even know it pulled away like that. The tear duct is another story, gonna have to take it in if you want it tucked the way it should have been.

Just my opinion, Its not as hard as you may think.


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## Paul Thompson (Jul 16, 2007)

springdale said:


> The skull fix is the same thing another tax is gonna do to fix it anyway. I really dont believe any one is gonna tear it complety down and start over unless he want to pay another big fee. You cant rehidrate it enough without taking it off the Manikin to pull it back around the base of the antlers. .


Elmers glue and cut hair off the back of the mount is not the industry standard for a fix. From the picture of the burr gap, there is no glue around the burr, it would be a snap to rehydrate all around the burr, inject glue, and tie it tight. Elmers glue is a bandaid, not a fix.


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## springdale (Dec 19, 2007)

Hey Paul, 

I"ll try what you say if ever i come across that. I havent had the problem with my stuff in a long while, but with my first couple mount I did (they were my own deer) & (12 years ago). I was told how to fix them in a Taxidermy class in Wisconsin 13 years ago, so I cant say your wrong because i havent tried it. Just trying to help and maybe learn a few thing myself. I have done maybe 100 heads in the 12 years, so I'm no pro but I get better with every one. 

Thanks

Mark


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## Paul Thompson (Jul 16, 2007)

Mark, I think my first 4 or 5 deer I built all had burr gaps, I learned a few tricks at the State show that corrected that. I think I had a dozen clunkers on my wall when I started, and thought I better get some lessons because they had terminal problems. The State Association guys taught me a lot, and they still do.


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## neil duffey (Feb 22, 2004)

am i the only one who does a sinching on the skin around the burrs? take a waxed thread, puncture through the leather side out to the hair side, and repeat it the length of the skin where it was attached to the burs. when you are ready to tighten it up, some adhesive of choice, close it up, sinch the thread, and use the excess to sew your Y and your all set... i haven't had a gap on my burs yet. none of this elmers glue and patches poop, no re-hydrating exct... just get it done right the first time?


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## fish patroll (May 8, 2002)

neil duffey said:


> am i the only one who does a sinching on the skin around the burrs? take a waxed thread, puncture through the leather side out to the hair side, and repeat it the length of the skin where it was attached to the burs. when you are ready to tighten it up, some adhesive of choice, close it up, sinch the thread, and use the excess to sew your Y and your all set... i haven't had a gap on my burs yet. none of this elmers glue and patches poop, no re-hydrating exct... just get it done right the first time?


 you're not the only one. I think that's a Ralphie secret method


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## Paul Thompson (Jul 16, 2007)

Neil, as high tech as that method is, maybe someone should use it to keep their pants up. Ever wear a belt? Same results.


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## Brian Jones (Jan 11, 2009)

I don't see that cinching is necessary, I have never done it and minus my first mount or two. I have never had the gap problem. Really it all boils down to proper fit and proper antler placement.


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## neil duffey (Feb 22, 2004)

Brian Jones said:


> I don't see that cinching is necessary, I have never done it and minus my first mount or two. I have never had the gap problem. Really it all boils down to proper fit and proper antler placement.


i know its a realphie secret, but i found some things i learned there to make some sense... its just an insurance policy. takes a min or two and doesn't hurt a thing so ill keep doing it. iv mounted a few w/ out w/ no problems... a fallow, a black buck and a lope when i worked for some one, but i still like to do it on my own mounts in my own shop... doesn't hurt anything.

paul i wear a belt daily... thank you. your just jelouse about the lux suite. :lol:


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