# 2001 zr600 Clutch issues



## HUBBHUNTER (Aug 8, 2007)

I had my sled out last weekend for the first time and the clutch is skipping/slipping pretty bad. I only use this sled for hitting the back roads once in a while so I'd rather not dump a bunch of money into it. It started slipping last winter but I only road it one time so it kind of got pushed to the side on the to do list. Now it needs to be fixed or replaced to feel comfortable taking it anywhere. The motor is strong and starts easily so I don't want to junk it yet.

Any suggestions on replacing the clutch? A shop in the mid Michigan area? I'm not all that mechanically inclined? Lol


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## StiffNeckRob (Apr 19, 2007)

Have you checked the belt first? If its worn, has a flat spot or is coming apart that would it. Put your spare on and see what it does.


Changing the clutch is EASY, if you have a puller. Have you also checked the springs to make sure they haven't cracked? I've had a few ZR800's an broke the locking tang on one of them twice.


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## SalmonBum (Feb 28, 2001)

I'm not a CAT guy (for good reason) but I have had many friends that used to run those year sleds. Seems those clutches are good for about 2000 miles (if maintained) and then need an overhaul. But if there has been no regular maintenance done to the clutch, then your cheapest route is a new clutch. This is to say that the clutch is your problem. It could be a number of different things. Belt, as above, is another quick check.


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## HUBBHUNTER (Aug 8, 2007)

StiffNeckRob said:


> Have you checked the belt first? If its worn, has a flat spot or is coming apart that would it. Put your spare on and see what it does.
> 
> 
> Changing the clutch is EASY, if you have a puller. Have you also checked the springs to make sure they haven't cracked? I've had a few ZR800's an broke the locking tang on one of them twice.


The belt was my first thought last season so I replaced it with new. It had a few teeth missing but not bad by any means. I replaced the clutch spring when I bought the sled because it came cracked. I know someone with a clutch puller. If I just wanted/needed to buy a new clutch is there any where in mid michigan that is any better than others with parts? What about used? Would I run the risk of buying someone else's problem?


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## CHASINEYES (Jun 3, 2007)

If your buying a new/used clutch, it will need to be calibrated for your sled. Meaning, clutch weights and spring will need to match what you have now or providing nothing is wrong with yours, you move them to your replacement clutch.

Could you be more specific on what's happening with your sled. I've wrenched on many cats and your problem should not be too hard to solve. 2000 miles is nothing. Which clutch have you worked on, front (primary) or rear (secondary)?

In order to save time and replys I'll ask if your track is at the proper tension. A track too loose can give false impressions of a slipping clutch due to track drivers (sprockets) slipping in your track. If your drive chain is too loose it can do this as well. Usually if its either of these two are slipping or jumping it happens under both hard exceleration and hard braking. More of a racheting.

Bushings and or pins in your primary weights can wear causing them to bind rather than giving you needed belt pressure. Those same pins and or bushings can rust or build up with grime. Bottom line, if your weights don't move freely, your clutch will slip. Either one of these problems is an inexpensive fix compared to buying a new clutch. Have you tried spraying all moving parts in your clutch with brake cleaner? 

Are any of the clutch shafts rusty or dirty, as this will cause slippage as well? If so try the brake cleaner. Place a rag under your clutch for catching the runoff/ grime.

I have seen sheeves that needed cleaned up with a light massage of steelwool, but that's normally from drag setups.


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