# Sharpening auger blades



## ScreeminReelz (Jan 12, 2004)

Just thought I'd share a tip with those of you that have dremel tools and dull blades on the ol' auger. They make a blade sharpening guide that threads on so you can get a good, even edge along the blade. It works KILLER for sharpening auger blades! Mine works like brand new again and the blades were super dull before. Anybody else have the same success??


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## goggleye57 (Dec 27, 2003)

Where do you get them? I use my dremel to sharpen my saw chain and it is easy to get it really sharp quickly.


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

They have them at HD and were about $10 the last time I saw them.


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## goggleye57 (Dec 27, 2003)

Sorry- I'm not familiar with HD?


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

Home Depot


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## goggleye57 (Dec 27, 2003)

Thanks! I'll go and see if they have them here


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

Just like sharpening a good wood chisel or plane blade, the flatter you can get the back, the sharper and more efficient the cutting edge will be, because the edge will be on the same plane all the way across. They might look flat, but they really aren't, as will be aparrent when you start lapping them. Even top quality tools need a bit of work before they are really ready for use, and auger blades can require quite a bit of work, but it is well worth it.

Use a piece of glass and use spray contact adhesive to attach a piece of fine emery cloth to the glass. (I use a granite inspection plate, but glass works just fine for ocassional use.) Work the back of the blade on the cloth untill the surface is straight all the way across. You can use progressively finer grits untill you get a mirror like polish on the back if you desire. I'll even finish my chisels with chrome polish on a piece of cardboard, but that might be going just a tad overboard for an auger blade. Then put the bevel on the top side of the blade. You will be suprised at how much easier your blades cut when the back of them is dead flat.


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## Full Choke (Jan 16, 2003)

esox
Could not of said it better myself!
Steve R


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## DaveW731 (Jan 12, 2001)

Will the Dremel approach work with Lazer blades? I have done OK with a hand sharpening tool that allows me to follow the curve of the blade, but if the Dremel would work, I think it may be faster.


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## gamalot (Dec 29, 2003)

I used one of the blue auger sharpeners available at the bait shop. They should be called "DULLERS"!
I ended up making a speed run to the bait shop to buy new blades for the laser, OUCH!
I was able to repair the damage as stated above with the emery attached to glass just like I do my plane blades.

The wife was really thrilled with me! While at the shop getting new blades for the laser, I found this neat little gadget called a Strikemaster Mag 2000. $300 later I was a star at home!
In keeping with the motto by which I live, "It is much easier to ask for forgiveness then to get permission", All is well and some of my Holes are easier to get into!  
Besides, the ice is getting thick and I can't be expected to provide dinner if I spend most of my fishing time and energy drilling holes!
I sure wish I could figure out how to post the photos of the nice trout I caught, made possible ofcourse, by the power auger!


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## Big K (Jan 13, 2003)

*"It is much easier to ask for forgiveness then to get permission"* 

I like that gamalot! I'm going to have to remember that one.


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## TrailFndr (Feb 12, 2002)

> The wife was really thrilled with me! While at the shop getting new blades for the laser, I found this neat little gadget called a Strikemaster Mag 2000. $300 later I was a star at home!
> In keeping with the motto by which I live, "It is much easier to ask for forgiveness then to get permission", All is well and some of my Holes are easier to get into! Besides, the ice is getting thick and I can't be expected to provide dinner if I spend most of my fishing time and energy drilling holes!


From MRS. TRAILFNDR.....

"PLEASE!! dont give my husband any ideas!!!!!!!!
I know you had good intentions, letting all the guys know that asking forgiveness was easier than getting permission, but rememberlakes have been known to have a NO ACCESS sign posted, making the holes inaccessible."


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## carp_assasin (Jan 8, 2003)

> lakes have been known to have a NO ACCESS sign posted, making the holes inaccessible.


In my house leg's have been known to have NO ACCESS signs posted, when I pull something like that!


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## gamalot (Dec 29, 2003)

Dear Mrs. Trailfinder;
Far be it from me to give the real trail finder any new paths!
I have been to that lake with POLE in hand and have learned, when it freezes over, thats where it stays!
Fortunately, I have also learned to buy her flowers and cook her a nice meal. I think I forgot the other part of this one but a bit of immagination should work.


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## Kevin (Oct 4, 2000)

Paul,
1. Why a piece of glass? Just because of the flat surface? Requires that one not apply too much pressure?
2. My auger blade is actually convex; along the arc of the curved metal to which it is attached. Does a flat tool still make sense, or should I fashion a similarly curved block to attach the abrasive to?
3. Any reply to Dave W.'s Dremel question? It would be faster for me too I think.
Thanks pal,
Kevin


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## ScreeminReelz (Jan 12, 2004)

My blades are curved too, but there is an even angled edge along the curve. The dremel guide allows you to keep that even edge and follow the curve too. The guide is just a slotted piece of plastic terminating at the rotary grinder. Just slide the blade along and you've got a nice sharp edge.


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## redwing111 (Jan 21, 2004)

Ive had good luck using a belt sander with fine grit paper. Works great, keeps the blade nice and flat and it only takes seconds.


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## The Whale (Jan 12, 2001)

Excluding the "abuse" indications such as dings, dents, chips, chunks etc. in the blade edge, (which need to be removed) we're talking about putting a clean cutting edge back on the blade from dulling in normal use. This only requires a MINIMUM of metal removal from the blades edge. Don't go at this thinking you need to remove a pile of metal shavings to get a new cutting edge. Work slowly at restoring the edge, don't get carried away or you'll be in for more headache and frustration.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

> _Originally posted by Amos _
> *Paul,
> 1. Why a piece of glass? Just because of the flat surface? Requires that one not apply too much pressure?
> 2. My auger blade is actually convex; along the arc of the curved metal to which it is attached. Does a flat tool still make sense, or should I fashion a similarly curved block to attach the abrasive to?
> ...


1) The piece of glass is simply for a good flat surface. if the piece of glass is on a flat surface, you can put as much pressure on it as needed with no problems.
2) Thats a toughie, making a jig with just the right curve would be very time consuming, and probably not worth the effort.
3) A dremel seems to be awfully agressive to me, some good hand sharpening with a fine diamond stone should do the job. If there are big nicks, meet me at Marinellies and I'll grind out the nicks on my wet grinder, so the steel doesnt overheat. I also have a couple of diamond hones you can borrow. (fine and VERY fine)
The reason flattening the back works so well is that if the back isn't VERY flat, then the cutting edge can never reach true sharpness, since it will be thicker and thinner when honed on one side, with the other side being uneven thickness (not totally parallel to the honed surface). I hope this explanation makes sense.


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## Kevin (Oct 4, 2000)

Thanks Paul, (and all others who contributed)
I made an attempt by hand, with fine and extra fine.
I plan to try it's cutting capability this Friday PM or this weekend. Looks pretty good to my inspection.
I appreciate the advice.


Oh, and we do not need a tool excuse to go grab a frosty at Marinelli's 

- Kevin


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