# Getting started in plugging for steelhead on the Big M



## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

I got rods, I got nice Okuma bait casters with line counters. I'm starting to build my collection of Mag lips in sizes 3-3.5 with various colors.

I have lots of questions though.

I'm using high vis big game 15 pound mono as mainline. What is recommended for a leader? Or just go straight to the plugs with the 15lb? Any need for a swivel?
What is the best size Mag lips for the Big M? I'm sure it depends on location. I have heard anything from 3-4. 
Do you run more than one size at once? For example if one side of your spread is more towards the deeper part of the hole would you run a bigger plug on that side?
How fast do you creep down a run with the boat?
How many of you use the oars for a bit of side to side action?
That would get me started.


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## plugger (Aug 8, 2001)

The fish are going to teach you most of what you will learn. The slower you go the more apt you are to get hit in that hole, the faster you go the more holes you can cover. As a general rule early fall, warmer water, the more aggressive the fish will be. If the hole is large enough sliding back and forth can be effective. As you learn the fish and the water you will learn where in the hole or run to concentrate and where to slide through. Time on the sticks will be how you learn. when your on the sticks the number of hits count not the fish landed.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

plugger said:


> the fish are going to teach you most of what you will learn. The lower you go the more apt you are to get hit in that hole the faster you go the more holes you can cover. As a general rule early fall, warmer water, the more aggressive the fish will be. If the hole is large enough sliding back and forth can be effective. As you learn the fish and the water you will learn where in the hole or run to concentrate and where to slide through. Time on the sticks will be how you learn. when your on the sticks the number of hits count not the fish landed.


Couldn't think of a better username on the forum to answer the question  I've seen guys on YouTube who run their entire operation from the back of a sled without ever being on the sticks. That's what made me think of the question.


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## murdermittenkid (Dec 27, 2009)

I fish a smaller slower river and use 3.0 almost exclusively. If you have blanks that work good with plugs you should pay attention to the rod tips and how they bounce. When you get a few fish you start realize a rhythm/beat at the rod tips that the plugs are working/diving. I usually try to stay in that rhythm/beat if that means slowing down speeding up or staying anchored and bouncing back every so often.


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## toto (Feb 16, 2000)

In this situation, I haven't seen where line weight has made a difference. I've used straight 17# without any issues. I know one thing, I won't hold a rod in my hand anymore while doing it. Sprained a wrist several years ago and it ain't been the same since, just sayin


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## Swampbuckster (Nov 28, 2010)

I'm on the same page with Murdermitten. The mag lip 3.0 is the perfect sized plug for steelhead I feel. I have fished 3.5s and have caught lots of steelhead on them but most rivers I fish, the 3.0 sets a better dive range for what I am looking for. For your line, I too run Big Game hi vis 15lb, then tie up a 10lb leader, typically Maxim monofilament. I drop down in line diameter and stick with a natural water color but I don't get real caught up on the visibility of the line itself. I dont think when a steelhead wants to hit a plug they are actually shy about it. Plus I fish rivers that at most average a visibility of 2.5 ft or less.. I don't use snap swivels, as typically the plug will not be spinning unless fouled. But I do run just a duo lock snap in the 20lb weight range. (Can't recall the actual size at this time) I have never altered depths of plugs from left to right. But will run further back in deeper runs and clearer water, like to get them more away from the boat. In clear low conditions I'll sometimes run stern planers way back, with the plugs trailing behind, but this is a good tactic too anytime. I like to run a lineup of plugs relative to the conditions that have worked for me before in similar. Once I get a fish, I make it a point to run one of the same pattern on the opposite side of the spread. Some days they want that one specific pattern. I'll sometimes end up with 3 or 4 of those at once if that's what they want. Other days they will hit just about anything. The days they don't hit are the days you'll end up trying all those other unproductive patterns in your box and you'll find a new winner every once in a while! Oh, I use a smaller leader line too so if by chance I do snag up, and snap off, which was probably going to happen with 15lb if it happened with 10, I typically lose the leader or section of it and not an entire mess of line. Very few plugs get lost though I've noticed. Usually by releasing line tension, they'll often break free on their own. If not, float back below them and give them a yank.


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## Swampbuckster (Nov 28, 2010)

Can't answer much questions on the oars. I've done it, but typically slow troll or sit still or slowly slide back on anchor. When doing that, I just try to slide slowly enough to work an area thoroughly and to keep the plugs bouncing and digging at a proper pace. During low flows, some of the rivers I fish, one can't even drop back plugs. Slow troll is the only way possible to get that dive and wiggle....but that works too.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Swampbuckster said:


> I'm on the same page with Murdermitten. The mag lip 3.0 is the perfect sized plug for steelhead I feel. I have fished 3.5s and have caught lots of steelhead on them but most rivers I fish, the 3.0 sets a better dive range for what I am looking for. For your line, I too run Big Game hi vis 15lb, then tie up a 10lb leader, typically Maxim monofilament. I drop down in line diameter and stick with a natural water color but I don't get real caught up on the visibility of the line itself. I dont think when a steelhead wants to hit a plug they are actually shy about it. Plus I fish rivers that at most average a visibility of 2.5 ft or less.. I don't use snap swivels, as typically the plug will not be spinning unless fouled. But I do run just a duo lock snap in the 20lb weight range. (Can't recall the actual size at this time) I have never altered depths of plugs from left to right. But will run further back in deeper runs and clearer water, like to get them more away from the boat. In clear low conditions I'll sometimes run stern planers way back, with the plugs trailing behind, but this is a good tactic too anytime. I like to run a lineup of plugs relative to the conditions that have worked for me before in similar. Once I get a fish, I make it a point to run one of the same pattern on the opposite side of the spread. Some days they want that one specific pattern. I'll sometimes end up with 3 or 4 of those at once if that's what they want. Other days they will hit just about anything. The days they don't hit are the days you'll end up trying all those other unproductive patterns in your box and you'll find a new winner every once in a while! Oh, I use a smaller leader line too so if by chance I do snag up, and snap off, which was probably going to happen with 15lb if it happened with 10, I typically lose the leader or section of it and not an entire mess of line. Very few plugs get lost though I've noticed. Usually by releasing line tension, they'll often break free on their own. If not, float back below them and give them a yank.


Great info, thanks.


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## Shoeman (Aug 26, 2000)

You can shift the boat by moving the motor providing you have enough anchor line out. Early season many fish will hold at the top of the hole. Some days they will move back and you'll hit them when they can't back up any further. 

As for baits, don't hesitate to run Hot N Tots and wiggle warts. I've also done well on Wee Warts, but those are impossible to find. Tadpollies and Flatfish on the softer current side of the boat will have their day. 

Too bad I sold about 100 plugs a few years back. Many of them Willy's Worms that I used to order by the dozen from Frank's


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## Clum (May 11, 2015)

Hot tip: Buy a lure retriever. 

I'm new to plugging myself, started last year on the Joe, had some decent success. Personally, I don't run a swivel, I feel like theres more of a chance for lures to blow out and spin to the top of the column. I could be wrong since I havent tried swivels. Im using 12lb clear mono straight to the snap. Also feel like less stuff on the line the less crap will get hung up on my plugs. I've heard pegging a bead a foot or two above your plug will help keep leaves off your plug. 

Also, I found out, I suck at keeping the boat straight off anchor. This season coming up I really want to try to get my boat more balanced. I have too much weight in the back and that current just wants to grab my ass end and pull it wherever. Much easier when a buddy is upfront. Whatever the case, either I'm a pansy, or it takes a lot of practice to get that muscle memory on point to make the right corrections at the right time. 

Running a chain anchor makes a huge difference. I know dragging bottom is looked down upon, but I figure it has it place and time. Obviously you dont want to go dragging chain through gravel runs when theres actively spawning fish, however, if youre dragging chain it turns up the bottom which floats down right into your plugs and fouls them up so thats a down side as well. But as far as making nice slow controlled slides down through a run, the chain anchor is money. Just get enough chain on the bottom where you can push on the oars and push forward a few feet. Lots of times the chain will slide right over logs or structure if you push hard enough. 

The other thing I would suggest, especially if your solo. I ended up buying a pedal switch and wired in a small extension cord that I can plug right into an "outlet" on my rowers seat. One side is up and the other side is down. Both momentary switches. That way I can keep both hands on the oars and still control my anchor. The link is the switch I bought. Foot Switch Treadle Foot Switch Two Way"SeeSaw" Dual Action Switch: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Lastly, that i can think of off the top of my head. Ive come across at least two guys that have had stealthcrafts running the minn kota deckhand. Both of them, including myself, the winch was wired incorrectly. There is a overrun protection built into the winch, this was not wired properly. The weight of the anchor holds this switch in position and allows voltage to the winch and the anchor will drop. As soon as the anchor hits the bottom, the switch releases and the anchor will stop releasing line automatically. As the current starts to take you down stream, the switch will re-engage because of the weight of the boat and the winch will allow line out at the speed of the current. This made a huge difference to me once I corrected the problem. 


Good luck man


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## maizen (Dec 29, 2010)

Steve said:


> I got rods, I got nice Okuma bait casters with line counters. I'm starting to build my collection of Mag lips in sizes 3-3.5 with various colors.
> 
> I have lots of questions though.
> 
> ...


Hi I've been plugging the big mannistee for about 30 years . I use 15# solar big game to a swivel with a bead above it to a 4 foot maxima leader 15#. I have used fluorocarbon but I hate it . for your plug spread you want atleast 5 feet between plugs. and not every plug will run in productive water and in most runs I know what rod will go. get a good plug retriever. I make my own plug Dawgs because the one on the market are not heavy enough to work in the current and be ready to lose plugs just because you got through a hole last time doesn't mean it will be clean next time . for plugs i run kwikfish k9x and k11x alot because they don't have rattles I also use maglips in 3.0 and 3.5. willys are one of my favorites along with wiggle warts and brads wigglers lol I do have a plug addition as I have around 3000 plugs no I don't carry them all when I'm plugging.  if you stay with golds and chromes you can't go wrong most colors are for catching fishermen not fish.


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## murdermittenkid (Dec 27, 2009)

Do you have a picture of your collection? Would love to see


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

maizen said:


> Hi I've been plugging the big mannistee for about 30 years . I use 15# solar big game to a swivel with a bead above it to a 4 foot maxima leader 15#. I have used fluorocarbon but I hate it . for your plug spread you want atleast 5 feet between plugs. and not every plug will run in productive water and in most runs I know what rod will go. get a good plug retriever. I make my own plug Dawgs because the one on the market are not heavy enough to work in the current and be ready to lose plugs just because you got through a hole last time doesn't mean it will be clean next time . for plugs i run kwikfish k9x and k11x alot because they don't have rattles I also use maglips in 3.0 and 3.5. willys are one of my favorites along with wiggle warts and brads wigglers lol I do have a plug addition as I have around 3000 plugs no I don't carry them all when I'm plugging. if you stay with golds and chromes you can't go wrong most colors are for catching fishermen not fish.


Thanks. That should get me started. What is the purpose of the bead in your setup?

Also, when you get done creeping down a run, does it ever make sense to go back to the top and try again?


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## riverman (Jan 9, 2002)

Steve said:


> Thanks. That should get me started. What is the purpose of the bead in your setup?
> 
> Also, when you get done creeping down a run, does it ever make sense to go back to the top and try again?


. The purpose of the bead above the swivel to the leader is to stop leaves from following the line down and fouling a plug. I just leave a long tag on the knot or half hitch a rubber band in if trash is a problem


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## riverman (Jan 9, 2002)

IMG_0947




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riverman


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Aug 30, 2010








Here is pic of a plug retriever that some early mani plug pullers designed and turned me onto. You need weight to get down in the currents and position of boat slightly upstream and on top of the plug is essential


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## tgafish (Jan 19, 2001)

I personally run 20 lb power pro for main line down to a barrel swivel to 5 foot 15lb flouro leader. Leave a long tag of flouro from the knot to catch debris. I find I can see the lure action much better when running braid. Easier to see if it's fouled


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

riverman said:


> IMG_0947
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you remember the name of that one?


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## riverman (Jan 9, 2002)

Home made Steve. Just bend some copper rod like shown and connect it to some lead. Add a rope and dog away. Some use small chain at the end but I have found netting catches the hooks on the plugs better


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

riverman said:


> Home made Steve. Just bend some copper rod like shown and connect it to some lead. Add a rope and dog away. Some use small chain at the end but I have found netting catches the hooks on the plugs better


Ah, I see now. Wasn't sure what I was looking at with the first glance of your picture.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Some more questions that I have come up with in the past days:

1. What is the ideal distance width wise to have the plug separated? I'm setting up my rods and rod holders.
2. Do you ever drop back through a hole and then do it again if you don't get a bite or should you always move on to the next one?
3. Is it a must to run chain for an anchor or can I still use a pyramid type anchor?


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