# Used Sleds



## Silver Panner (Apr 15, 2009)

Hey guys, I am interested in looking for a used sled this fall.... now that, thank god, I have found a job. I was wondering (and I know everyone is typically partial to a brand) if anyone had ideas for what to look for in regards to the "best bang for the buck." Or maybe what machines to stay away from. Not really interested in trail cruisers. Finally, what would be the main items to inspect or any warning signs of major abuse before purchasing?

Thanks


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## NittanyDoug (May 30, 2006)

If you're not interested in trail cruisers what are you looking for? What price range? Lots more questions too once we get some more info. Obvious places to look for them are craigslist and ebay. also Whitestar Auctions has a monthly aution of sleds, quads, pretty much everything.


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## Silver Panner (Apr 15, 2009)

I'm really open to anything, but I would like to have a sportier sled then a 2+ trail cruiser.
I would like to be around $2000 but would be willing to consider something up to $3000 if I thought the extra money was worth it. I've had toys before and I understand that stuff breaks but I just want to make sure that I get something that is reliable and I'm not constantly dumping money into it. Most of my riding would be on lakes and trails in the norther lower. Might use it for ice fishing but that wouldnt be a major factor. I rode a fair amount growing up and miss it. Dont want to go all out and break the bank.... just yet. I havent heard of Whitestar before... but I'll check them out tonight.


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## NittanyDoug (May 30, 2006)

Here is the link to White Star. http://www.snowmobileauction.com/

I'm partial to Yamaha's. Just what I know. I'm not saying they are the best. I know they have a reputation of being reliable and generally decent on fuel (late 90's tripples through 2000's). Some of the ski-doo SDI's get better mileage. Yamaha was probably on the bottom end of the suspension technology for that time period too. The newer 4-stroke stuff has some better suspension (not the early RX-1's). The garage up north has a share of polaris's (Indy chassises) that have been decent for us. Several yamaha's. We ride with some Arctic Cat's and some of them have been less than reliable. I can't speak to maintenance done on them. I do know there is a newer Cat in the group that runs great and seems to be hassle free. If I were looking to buy and had $2k each to buy (since I like yamaha) I'd go with a 2001 or so tripple. Something like a vmax 600/700 deluxe 2-up and then for the other get a 2002-2004 Viper. I have a 2000 SRX700 which was Yamaha's lake racer at the time. Plenty of power for me. You should find good deals. Last year towards the end of the season the vmax's like that could be had for under $2k. Being a year older and the economy still sucking, well that's good for a buyer.

There is also a difference between the makes in riding position. And all brands have the capability to make great sleds and also thier share of lemons. I'd be willing to share more info, just let me know. Plenty of people have extreme brand loyalty. I'm not necessarily one of them. I have to admit I did get a Yamaha coat but it was a great deal on a goretex coat.


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## Ralph Smith (Apr 1, 2003)

If your looking to go cheap and something that could be fixed easy if something went wrong. A buddy of mine has a 1973 El tigre 440 with the twin plug cylinders. Its been built a little and is a trail racer. Just needs a new track. You can find new after markets now for around $400, and I think he'll let the sled go for $400 also. Really quick machine and has been kept in garage.


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## 2SloSHO (Jan 23, 2008)

Im a Yamaha guy Id look into a SXViper or like a 01-02 SXR700.

I have a 01 SRX but mine is setup for a beating.


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## NittanyDoug (May 30, 2006)

FWIW, the Viper's and SRX's have powervalves. The vmax's and sx-r's don't have them. There is a little difference in power but less maintenance with the vmax and sx-r.


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## Silver Panner (Apr 15, 2009)

Thanks, this helps a lot. I was leaning toward Yamaha or Polaris myself. When inspecting the sled, what are the major points I should be inspecting before purchasing?


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## Mightymouse (Sep 19, 2007)

Here are the things that I would check out when buying a used sled.

Check the rails and tunnel for any signs of cracks or buckling. You won't be able to see all of the tunnel since the track will be in the way but take as good a luck up in there as you can. If you end up having a cracked or buckled tunnel or bulkhead it isn't going to be a cheap or easy fix.

Check the track for missing lugs or any type of tearin or cracking. Often times the edges of the track will be chewed up a bit from snow build up in the tunnel and that's not a huge deal, just make sure it isn't overly chewed up. If there are studs in the track check for any torn out or pulled out studs. Also if there are studs check the top of the tunnel and the cooling fins for any damage from the studs.

Check the rear suspension for free movement, no binding or sticking. Pick the back of the sled up a bit and drop it down. The sled should land and rebound back up to its "normal" position. Most times when you grab a sled by the rear bumper and lift up there will be a little play in there when you first start lifting, that is ok. There should also be a little "sit-in" as well, meaning when you sit on the sled the suspension will sag a bit from your weight. That is normal to. When you get off the sled it should return to it's "normal" position. 

With the back end raised you should be able to turn the track by hand. It may be harder than you think but it should move. As you get it moving listen for any clunking noises coming from the chaincase area. That would be a sign of bad bearings and they are not usually an easy repair to do yourself, or cheap to have someone else do. Also if the speedo doesn't work that could also be a sign of pending bearing issues as well.

Check the front suspension for any damage. It is common for people to clip stuff with the front and damage front end components. Depending what type of sled you are looking at there will be different front end set ups. If the sled has trailing arms check them for damage and make sure they aren't tweeked or bowed. Basiclly check all the components in the front end for signs of damage or impact. Stand on the sled and turn the bars from right to left. If the ski's are on the ground there will be some resistance when you turn the bars but they should turn smoothly with no binding or tight spots.

The engine is the hard part to check over on a sled. You can't really see what is going on inside and with a two stroke you never know. Ask if the motor has been rebuilt and if it has than ask why. It isn't uncommon with 2 strokes for people to rebuild a motor that hasn't blown up, just clean the cylinders and toss in new pistons and rings. That isn't necessarily a bad thing. If the motor has blown up in the past find out if the guy fixed the factor that made it blow or if he just fixed the damage. If he didn't get to the root of the problem and fix that, it will blow again on you. 
As for what you can easily check on the motor, you can check the plugs but it won't tell you the whole story. Especially this time of year. My sleds get started every few weeks in the summer but they only idle so the plugs show signs of being fat but in the winter with the cooler weather and normal running conditions they look way different. If you do pull a plug and it looks really lean I would be nervous. Start the sled and get a look at, and a whiff of, the exhaust smoke. If it is white smoke that is a bad sign (coolant burning). Check the coolant reservoir for any signs of oil being in it. Take a good listen to the motor and make sure everything sounds "normal". While it is running watch the clutches, make sure there isn't any wobble or unusual noises coming from them. If the guy has a stand for the back of the sled you can raise the back end and rev the sled up a bit. Clutches should engage and start the track spinning. That should be a smooth process, without clunking or anything. You can take a quick look at the clutches and check for any small cracks but you can't really check the internals without some work. While you are there check the belt for any signs of damage, missing lugs or looking old and dried out. 

You can also check is chaincase oil. It should be easy to check it for the oil level and when you pull the dipstick it should have a magnet on the end. If there is excessive metal fragments on the magnet that is not a good thing. You can also check the fluid for any cloudyness as well. When the driveshaft bearings start to go bad water (snow) may make it into the chaincase and that will show up in discoloration or cloudyness in the fluid.

Regular maintenance stuff such as hyfax, carbides and the belt are easy to check as well but wear in that area isn't really a sign of abuse, just stuff that wears over time.

Hopefully that is helpful. I'm sure I left something out and if I think of something I will add it in. I am not really in "sled head" mode right now so stuff is probably slipping my mind.

Good luck with your purchase


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## NittanyDoug (May 30, 2006)

That's pretty good list going there. You could do a compression test on the cylinders. Make sure they are at operating temperatures. they should be fairly consistent. I think some sleds in the tripples had one cylinder with slightly less compression to make it easier to start. 

Brands of sleds will advertise rear suspension travel differently too. Some measure travel of the bumper, some measure actual skid travel. Some with sit-in, some with out, etc. Find out what kind of riding the person did. I'd stay away from anything "race" but that's me as well as someone who did alot of ditch-banging. Suspension components can be worn and pricey to fix too. The bogey wheels should spin fairly freely but not be loose. Look at the surface of the wheels. You don't want them to be all torn or chipped up. Granted they can be replaced but at $20+ per wheel that adds up too.


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## HeavyF150 (Dec 5, 2005)

Silver,
PM sent.


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## Mightymouse (Sep 19, 2007)

NittanyDoug said:


> That's pretty good list going there. You could do a compression test on the cylinders. Make sure they are at operating temperatures. they should be fairly consistent. I think some sleds in the tripples had one cylinder with slightly less compression to make it easier to start.
> 
> Brands of sleds will advertise rear suspension travel differently too. Some measure travel of the bumper, some measure actual skid travel. Some with sit-in, some with out, etc. Find out what kind of riding the person did. I'd stay away from anything "race" but that's me as well as someone who did alot of ditch-banging. Suspension components can be worn and pricey to fix too. The bogey wheels should spin fairly freely but not be loose. Look at the surface of the wheels. You don't want them to be all torn or chipped up. Granted they can be replaced but at $20+ per wheel that adds up too.


 
Good additions to the list, I knew I would miss something!!! 

Hard to think about the sleds right now, between softball games and golf rounds


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## Silver Panner (Apr 15, 2009)

Thanks so much guys for the great info! This is exactly what I was looking for. 

Heavy,

Having computer issues right now but I'll try to respond to you again in a while.


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## onebad800 (Apr 28, 2003)

I will be putting our 1999 skidoo formula z 500 , real nice cond. only 700 miles on it apprx., I want $1900 for it . I will get some pics later this week.


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## Huntmich (Sep 4, 2008)

here ya go: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=74911
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62167
I had 2 SRX's 600 and a 700. one of the best upgrades i did to them was putting viper shocks in the rear. made the ride a lot better. I kinda miss them but i love my apex


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## NittanyDoug (May 30, 2006)

You totally have to long travel an SRX. Fortunately the guy I bought mine from did it. He even put reverse in it. Great sled.


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## DeafBuck (Jun 8, 2005)

i have a 1998 ski doo formula z 583 with 40 mm carbs look like brand new only 670 mileages on it and site in garage with factory cover but always run idles keep engine great running ....the sled is look very health and shine .. cuz of my wife surgery in the past and loss of interested ride snowmobile since bought brand new .. Selling for 1,600.....could be selling for 1,900 but i need money to down upnorth cabin ... it like MXZ but this sled is better than mxz if interesting contact me [email protected]


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