# Interior load bearing wall question?????



## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

I have this load bearing wall that I would like to run a cold air return through. This is one of the better locations, although I do have an area on an exterior wall that could be done as well. This is a remodel job on an old home. Can I cut the plates on the top and at the floor to allow for cold air return cavity?


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## N M Mechanical (Feb 7, 2008)

If this is the only option knotch it and plate it.


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## caseyj (Apr 8, 2001)

You could place it on the outside of the wall and finish around it or bump it at the top with an elbow and then back into the wall. Then box around it at the ceiling level.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

caseyj said:


> You could place it on the outside of the wall and finish around it or bump it at the top with an elbow and then back into the wall. Then box around it at the ceiling level.


I thought about that, but was hoping to have a cleaner look. If its not a good option to cut then thats exactly what I will do.


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## cityboy2977 (Jul 27, 2009)

you can cut through.
make sure the upper floor joists are nailed to the top plates before you cut. and you 
need to double the studs under those 2 joists.


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

N M Mechanical said:


> If this is the only option knotch it and plate it.


By code this is required.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

I assume you mean plate it by sistering the existing 2x4's after its been notched? Or do you mean something else?


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> I assume you mean plate it by sistering the existing 2x4's after its been notched? Or do you mean something else?


Plating is a steel plate (usually 1/8th thick) that adjoins the beam from stud to stud where you notch it. They're known as notch or nail plates.


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## RDS-1025 (Dec 1, 2008)

Michihunter said:


> Plating is a steel plate (usually 1/8th thick) that adjoins the beam from stud to stud where you notch it.


This and full bearing from ceiling joist to bottom plate will be as good as it gets.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Michihunter said:


> Plating is a steel plate (usually 1/8th thick) that adjoins the beam from stud to stud where you notch it.


What is the max depth I can notch it? Or can I cut it through completely if I reinforce it?


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Here's a site that might give you a better idea of what we're referring to: http://tamlyn.com/index_files/PlatesandBrackets.htm


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> What is the max depth I can notch it? Or can I cut it through completely if I reinforce it?


Don't hold me to this because my books are in my truck but I want to say 25% max on load bearing beams if you just notch it and all the way through if you double stud it and plate it. Plate must be at least 16 gauge and 1 1/2" wide.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

If I were to cut all the way through, would the plate attach something like this? Or would it be located between the joists?


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> If I were to cut all the way through, would the plate attach something like this? Or would it be located between the joists?


Just like you have it. And don't forget to do the bottom as well.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

I dont know how carpentry and construction folks remember and know all these codes. You guys amaze me. Thanks a bunch.

Is plating on one side enough? If I use 1/8" can I notch the existing 2x4s that much to get a clean level fit for the drywall?


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## N M Mechanical (Feb 7, 2008)

do not cut all the way through the plates cut about 3/4 the way through and nail the joist and only need to plate the side you cut.


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

N M Mechanical said:


> do not cut all the way through the plates cut about 3/4 the way through and nail the joist and only need to plate the side you cut.


I agree with NM. Curious though, where is this return being added and why?


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Good question. This is an old house and there are no returns upstairs. While I am remodeling and have it opened up I want to add a return from the second floor to promote better air floor and with the possibility of adding central air at a later date, it seems like a good idea.


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> Good question. This is an old house and there are no returns upstairs. While I am remodeling and have it opened up I want to add a return from the second floor to promote better air floor and with the possibility of adding central air at a later date, it seems like a good idea.


Sounds good. Just remember that you want to try and equalize the supply and return flow to get proper air changes.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Guys, Thanks for all the help. I have one more question. Take a look at the picture and let me know if this is feasible. I need to move teh stud over just about 2.5 inches to make room for a duct. Resting on top of the stud is a joist for the second floor. Is something like this feasible? Thanks guys.


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## S.NIEMI (Oct 26, 2007)

Grouse Hunter said:


> Guys, Thanks for all the help. I have one more question. Take a look at the picture and let me know if this is feasible. I need to move teh stud over just about 2.5 inches to make room for a duct. Resting on top of the stud is a joist for the second floor. Is something like this feasible? Thanks guys.


 Thing of beauty............Home-owners?


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Im thinking a total pain, but I want to try to get a supply to another room while I have this very old home opened up. So I take it you are saying, dont try it?


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## cityboy2977 (Jul 27, 2009)

is this a heat run or a return ?
the stud to the left should go from top to bottom. sitting on top of a couple plates is useless. wont hold a load.
keep your studs and joists stacked if possible. but i dont think 2" is going to make or break this project for you.
ive seen alot worse.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

This is a heat run. The pictures doesn't really show, but the plate the stud is resting on is a 2x8. Does that make a difference? Yeah because of the location of the floor joists under this wall, 2' does break it.


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

What is below the floor that prevents you from moving the ductwork to the other stud cavity??


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

A chimney is locted in the other cavity. a


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> A chimney is locted in the other cavity. a


What about the other side or the other side of the chimney? 

BTW- Whereabouts you located GH? If you're fairly close I could always shoot over and take a look.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

On the other side is an archway. This is one of my only options if I want the heat supply on an exterior wall.


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Not real close I'm in flint. Appreciate the offer!


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Grouse Hunter said:


> On the other side is an archway. This is one of my only options if I want the heat supply on an exterior wall.


Trust me on this GH, there's ALWAYS another option. How about overhead? Is there an attic? Perhaps go up through an interior wall and then extend it overhead to where you want it located?


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Have you thought about a high velocity system? Perfect for old house remod's.
As Ted stated, there is always options. You just have to get creative. 
Are you running the ductwork yourself or just making chases for the contractor?
Do you need a contractor???????


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## Grouse Hunter (Jan 23, 2000)

Michihunter said:


> Trust me on this GH, there's ALWAYS another option. How about overhead? Is there an attic? Perhaps go up through an interior wall and then extend it overhead to where you want it located?


That is an interior wall. The only one accessible. The exterior walls are stucco and no room to run duct, unless I want to frame in some boxes. I believe you when you say there are other options. Yes there are, but not many and not many good ones. I went a basic route and studded out a wall and ran a chase in it.


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