# Ideas for a 5 foot crossbar?



## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)

I need a 5 foot crossbar for the back of my utility trailer that will support a canoe and that I can drill a couple of holes in on each end to bolt onto the tube railing. I think a 2x4 would bend and I want to avoid putting a leg brace on if possible. I've racked my brain trying to come with something sturdy enough that is just a matter of drilling and bolting.


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## Northernfisher (Jul 29, 2010)

sgc said:


> I need a 5 foot crossbar for the back of my utility trailer that will support a canoe and that I can drill a couple of holes in on each end to bolt onto the tube railing. I think a 2x4 would bend and I want to avoid putting a leg brace on if possible. I've racked my brain trying to come with something sturdy enough that is just a matter of drilling and bolting.


Are you trying to make a bed extender for your trailer?


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## tito (Apr 27, 2012)

Run the 2x4 width wise across the the span easily support 150 lbs. without a leg. Cut up some 4 inch pieces and bolt to the ends for mounts. Or get some 1 1/2- 2 inch angle and bolt to the 2x4 and drill for a mount.

Put up a pic someone could give all kinds of ideas based on a pic as I am picturing totally different than Northernfisher as a bed extender would be even more simple


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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)

Northernfisher said:


> Are you trying to make a bed extender for your trailer?


No. This would go across the width, but since you asked, i do want to put some pvc piping down on the floor for my kayak to sit on. What diameter should i use? Its a sit on top 11.5 ocean Kayak Malibu.


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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)




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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)

This trailer has a front railing and 2 sides, but no back. It has bolt holes in the upper tube railings. I just want to find something I can attach across the back on the railings that will hold a canoe. The canoe would just extend over the front railing and whatever i put across the back. I could just put a 2 x 4 across the 5' span but I'm thinking its not stiff enough. Its kind of a dumb question, but I can't really think of anything I could get at home depot. Maybe a heavy duty pvc. ?


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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)




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## Northernfisher (Jul 29, 2010)

sgc said:


> This trailer has a front railing and 2 sides, but no back. It has bolt holes in the upper tube railings. I just want to find something I can attach across the back on the railings that will hold a canoe. The canoe would just extend over the front railing and whatever i put across the back. I could just put a 2 x 4 across the 5' span but I'm thinking its not stiff enough. Its kind of a dumb question, but I can't really think of anything I could get at home depot. Maybe a heavy duty pvc. ?


Use a 2x6 flat or a piece of Unistrut (or two side by side).

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut...Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121


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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)

Northernfisher said:


> Use a 2x6 flat or a piece of Unistrut (or two side by side).
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut...Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121


Northernfisher, i revised my original response to you. I'm asking about flooring extension now.


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## sgc (Oct 21, 2007)

Thanks, for replies. Can that unistrut be cut with a round saw or hack?


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## Northernfisher (Jul 29, 2010)

sgc said:


> Northernfisher, i revised my original response to you. I'm asking about flooring extension now.


Okay then, I would just lay a couple of 2x4s flat and a sheet of plywood on top of that. That will get you 8 feet. You might want to bolt the front down if you are worried about it tipping. 

Good luck.


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## fisheater (Nov 14, 2010)

You can cut unistrut with a hack saw or an angle grinder easily. I googled steel supply in your area, it seems like you should be able to get whatever angle or expanded metal sheet (the screen material the deck of your trailer is fabricated from) you would require. Welding is the best way to fabricate with steel. If you google portable welding, you could find a man that works out of his truck and garage. I’ve used a few portable welders over the years when I was a contractor. Many were both reasonably priced and talented. Because I was not a metal fabricator, many times the could offer cleaner, and less expensive solutions compared to my original plans.


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