# Question re: Battery Configuration on my Lund



## yooperkenny (Jul 13, 2004)

Looking for some info and advice on options to improve the power situation with my beloved yooper fishing boat - a 93 Lund 1600 Explorer with a 40hp Merc Classic (tiller) w/ power tilt & trim. 

I bought this boat used about 8 years ago from the Fish & Hunt Shop in Curtis and both batteries were new at the time. It was set up with a deep cycle battery near the bow just for the Minnekota, and a battery in the stern compartment for the Merc, bilge pump, navigation lights, and live well. I was told that the Merc charges the stern battery while underway. I added wiring to the stern battery to power a 12v outlet (GPS) and my fishfinder.

Lately the stern battery doesn't want to hold a charge and I'm thinking it's time to replace it. Even before it seemed like I was constantly needing to charge that battery. While doing some research in this forum I see where many recommend having a battery just for starting and I'm leaning that way - maybe installing an additional stern battery with one dedicated to just the Merc and the second soley for the other connections.

First - is it imperative that a starting battery be a deep cycle, or can a car battery be used for that purpose? I have a very new car battery available to me that I could install exclusively for starting the Merc.

Does my basic plan to add a 3rd battery seem feasible? How would you set this up power-wise? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome - Thanks!


----------



## SalmonBum (Feb 28, 2001)

Getting 8 yrs an a marine battery is great. With all the stuff we run out there, 3 yrs is considered good.

One thing you need to remember, if the motor is NOT running, then the battery isn't being charged. Say your up front using the trolling motor, but still have a livewell, radio, fishfinder, GPS going, etc..... That is all draining the "starting" battery. One problem is your 40 hp doesn't put out a ton of amps to refill the battery (not like a car alternator would anyway). The other issue is the battery is a simple starting battery. Starting styles do Not like to be discharged at all, and that is what your doing if you run alot of stuff without that Merc going. What I would suggest is replacing it with a Dual purpose battery. These batterys don't mind being discharged, and still are capable of HI outputs (like a staring batt) to turn over a motor. I have had great luck with dual purpose.

If you want to run dual batteries in the rear, I would setup a 2 bank system, with an isloator. Put all your electronics on one battery, then just the staring motor on the other. Isolaotor will let the motors charging current goto both, but when the motor is off and if the "electronics" battery goes low, it will not be able to rob juice from the "motor" battery. OR, just add a battery switch. Put on "ALL" when running, but switch to "1" (electronics) when the motor is off, with the staring being batt #2.

The other way is get a 2 bank charger. Hook to trolling batt and the new "electronics" battery. Keep the starting batt seperate and just charge off the motor.


----------



## yooperkenny (Jul 13, 2004)

Thanks, SB

Anyone else have any thoughts on options or how you would ideally set this up? Also could use some feedback on:

_"...is it imperative that a starting battery be a deep cycle, or can a car battery be used for that purpose?..."_


----------



## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

I just added a second battery to my back of my Lund with a switch to run Batery #1, or battery #2, or both, as well as a switch to shut all power down. I have a small short in my electrical system that will kill my single system if I leave the battery conected while not in use. I also have a triple battery system for the front of my boat with a on board charging system that is seperate from the back end of the boat.
I will use my exsisting dual purpose battery that runs the boat and all electronics and add another just like it in back, more for insurance so I am not ever stranded. It's over kill but I dont see being stranded ever. Deep cycles go in front for trolling with the bow motor. I also have a 8HP kicker that rides on the back for big water trolling to save fuel.


----------



## SalmonBum (Feb 28, 2001)

yooperkenny said:


> Thanks, SB
> 
> Anyone else have any thoughts on options or how you would ideally set this up? Also could use some feedback on:
> 
> _"...is it imperative that a starting battery be a deep cycle, or can a car battery be used for that purpose?..."_


I would use only a MARINE starting or dual purpose for starting. Having a deep cycle for starting is not good for the battery.


----------



## OTIS (Feb 15, 2001)

From what you stated in your 1st post you can just replace the Battery with a good marine cranking battery or an AGM battery (dual purpose).
Eight years is a good run.

If you want a 2nd battery look at running a perko type switch so you can flip between batteries if one dies. I use this method and it works great.

You may want to charge your cranking battery every so often to keep it in good working order.

Good luck.


----------



## Lund Lubber (Nov 3, 2005)

If you ever get stranded, you can hook up on of your trolling batteries to start your boat to get you back.

I've done it!:lol:


----------



## yooperkenny (Jul 13, 2004)

Thanks for the feedback everyone



SalmonBum said:


> I would use only a MARINE starting or dual purpose for starting. Having a deep cycle for starting is not good for the battery.


I now understand the Don't Use A Deep Cycle For Starting concept. Now I'm wondering - if I were to use this almost new car battery solely for a Starter, is there any risk to either my Merc or the battery itself?


----------

