# Garage Heaters ?



## drwink (Oct 15, 2003)

Just wondering if anyone has a "Modine Hot Dawg" or "Mr Heater Big Maxx" 
garge or workshop heater and how they work. Small units about the size of a window A/C unit, forced air type hanging unit able to be mounted with close clearances.
They advertise perfect for a 2-3 car garage, availible in 30,000, 45,000 & 75,000 BTU in natural gas or LP gas.
I put on an addition on my pole barn, super insulated but only about 340 sq ft and thought it would be a nice unit to put in there. I already have a Radiant heater in the main barn on LP and would just need to run and "T" off the gas line through the wall for an easy install and the area dosen't have a high enough ceiling to put Radiant on that side, besides I can get one of these for $389(45,000) right now.

Any input would be appreciated

Thanks

Wally


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Clearance is the main issue when dealing with unit heaters. They are VERY popular in the application you intend on using them though. As for the brands you mentioned, Modines are nice but I prefer Sterling or Reznor. Just make sure you have ample clearances.


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## kumma (Jul 12, 2002)

I have a Modine unit in my 1500 sf. stick built shop. It's a 4 burner unit, not sure what BTU it is. I have 10 foot ceiling and 6" insulated walls and ceiling. I could keep the shop at 70 degrees if I could afford the propane. I keep it at 60 and its comfortable in the winter. My cousin has the same one in his 4 car garage with 7 foot ceilings and it can overheat it in a hurry. I like the unit but propane prices are killing me, figuring on $1500+ for the winter to heat the shop alone.  I have been thinking of switching to wood heat because I like radiant heating better than forced air. Plus concerns about sawdust and chemical fumes igniting or burning out the heat exchangers, but its been 4 years and still works fine.


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## DeerManager (Oct 4, 2006)

My buddy has a 3 car garage and has a reznor and it was actually cooler in his house than his garage last week when we were working on his car. It's a older model, but still very quiet and quick to get to temp with his thermostat.


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Would you need independent heating from the main barn for different temps, or will you be running the radiant at the same time as the addition? Reason being is you can hook up an air handler or just a fan for a transfer duct and circulate the air from the main barn to the addition. After all it's not a big addition and it won't be very efficient going with a bigger unit than you actually need. Another option is a they have small 220V electric heater with a thermostat. You say the addition is insulated, then you should be set. I got one for my brother in laws garage (2 1/2) and it works great and doesn't cost much to run. They were so impressed they bought one for my father in law. Just a thought.


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## drwink (Oct 15, 2003)

The main barn is separate and only heated when I have to do something out there like a project or work on a car, tractor, project or something.
The addition is actually my kennel, the overall pad size is 18 x 40 but the inside is actually "L" shaped, main walk way & inside kennels are 7ft x 34ft with basically an attached 10 x 10 room. (I will toss in a couple photos for a better visual at the end)

I have been using a 22,000 BTU Kerosene heater while finishing the ceiling insulation & drywall and after a few hours it heats up pretty good.
I want to heat this up independantly as it will probably stay on most of the time compared to the main barn.
I thought I could go with the 30,000 BTU but for one thing the 45,000 has a bigger fan motor. Do to the shape of my space and where I was thinking of putting it was at the narrow end, blowing at down the direction of the leg of the "L".
I'm not a heating guy but have put in a few and did the radiant one myself but just trying to get a better idea and more input before I purchase the unit.

Photo of the end I was thinking of mounting the unit above the back door.









Photo of the front room area, this also serves as a home office and a puppy whelping room when we have pups(door in photo is where I was standing when 1st photo taken)









Looking at room from from front door.









Hope this gives a better idea of what I'm trying to do

Thanks

Wally


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## Old Coot (Oct 25, 2007)

I have the hot dawg 75,000 btu to heat my 1200 sq foot insulated garage. I use propane and have had it 5 years. It works fine and heats the place up fairly fast. 30 degrees to 60 degrees in about 15 minutes. Mine is pretty loud but I think the smaller ones are quieter. Clearance is not a problem with these. Mine is screwed right to the ceiling. I would recommend a digital thermostat such as the honeywell round (heat only) if you are going to run it round the clock. It provides better ability to turn the heat down when you are not using the room. Mine seems to be fairly efficient with the propane but at current prices it still adds up. I also have a wood stove out there that can take over when I'm going to be there a while.


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Well, if you want to run heat most of the time, on LP, with a unit heater, it's going to cost alot of money. The unit heaters are nice, but not for continual heat.
Now, if I were to do it, or recommend an application, there are a couple ways to go.
1: hang a small LP furnace and run some spiral duct out with grills in there.
2: hang a small air handler with electric strip heat and spiral duct w/grills 220V.

Initial cost is more, however, you'll make it up with fuel savings over the unit heater.

This is just my opinion, it's your property, your decision entirely.


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## wally-eye (Oct 27, 2004)

I use one of the ventless LP wall heaters for my 16X32 workshop in my garage. Room is insulated and doesn't cost very much to keep it heated. Run it at 50 degrees all winter and crank it up when I'm out there working.

Had the gas company come out and set a 125lb pig next to the garage just for the heater.............usually about $40 or so a month to heat...


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## Tracker83 (Jun 21, 2005)

Somewhat of a different subject, but with propane at $3+/gal has anybody done the calculations to see if electric heat is becoming more attractive when compared to LP?


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Tracker83 said:


> Somewhat of a different subject, but with propane at $3+/gal has anybody done the calculations to see if electric heat is becoming more attractive when compared to LP?


Depends on the unit. A 110V is going to cost more to run opposed to a 220V and how many amps it draws.

Also, has there been any thoughts on exhaust air due to the fact of it being a kennel as well as an office?


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

In the application you are using it for(kennel) I'd be hesitant on anything forced air. Radiant would certainly be your most efficient if you can get something with allowable clearance. Baseboard electric is another option. If you aren't able to use radiant, then I would agree with tinmarine about the small LP furnace ducted with vents.


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## Old Coot (Oct 25, 2007)

Wally,

Please post pics of your heat installation when you get it done. That's a great looking office and kennel you have. It seems almost too nice for a garage heater. I have to agree with some of the other guys that radiant would be a great option. The advantage of the hot dawg is the quick and easy install and fast warmup. I like the combination of both. The unit heater gets me warm quick then if I'm going to stay the wood stove takes over and no more noise. 

Bill


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## Kevin_D (Dec 3, 2005)

I beleive that the unvented heater (propane) create alot of moisture. Can cause molding if not vented some how. I am no way an authority in these matters but you may want to look into that aspect.


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## kumma (Jul 12, 2002)

So what did you end using?

Im dumping my propane tank and getting some infrared quartz heaters for the shop. Either Fostoria or Dayton hanging units. With propane prices reaching 3.80 a gallon this winter, electric is now cost effective for my situation. One fill up will pay for a couple of heaters.


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## Old Coot (Oct 25, 2007)

I'd like to know what wink chose too (with pics). Heating choices are becoming a real interesting topic these days. I've heard of some people being gouged for propane this year. I think there may be some legal action on that. Propane average price peaked at $2.45 a gallon this winter. I paid 1.99 prebuy. I just used that up and am now at 2.39. This site shows average throughout the winter.

http://cis.state.mi.us/mpsc/reports/shopp/index.htm


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## drwink (Oct 15, 2003)

I will be. I have been finishing up my ceiling & insulation lately.
Venting, putting in durovent, R25 insulation & then drywall & I'm down to my last 2 sheets of drywall.

Figured I would probably get a little better price on whatever unit I went with at the end of the heating season.
I'm afraid in my area I'm stuck with propane (or electric:sad
I have a 330 pound tank now (rented) and am exploring buying my own. I figure if I buy my own I can become a "Propane Gypsy" and buy from whoever I want. If I do this right and can buy in the summer and get by on one "fill" for the season it won't be to bad.
My only other option is wood and don't want to go that route in their.

Also, the heat will be a vented unit. The dogs had access to out side through swinging dog doors, probably the only area I will loose heat and it dosen't smell dogs do their business in the outside kennel areas.

My next door neighbor is a heating salesman & his wife operates a horse farm next door, I'm going to have him come over and see what he suggests and what kind of price he will give me. That way I gat get ready for next season to have everything in place & up & running.

Wally


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