# Building a deer shack...



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

I bought a gal of barn paint - black20$ and painted all of the inside 2xs then tar papered the out side then sheeted it with cedar slabs


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

Get Out - I built 2 4 x 6 blinds many (30) years ago and we still use them today, I also "inherited" a couple about that size that came with a 40 I purchased. I even made the mistake of building a 4 x 5 about 20 years ago. Even for rifle only hunting you will not be happy with only a 4' depth, especially if your chair rocks or swivels back - you will be hitting the back of your chair on the back of the blind.

Hinged windows are nice too, as Midalake mentioned. I have some of mine with sliding windows and some with hinged. The sliders do create a problem if you have freezing rain/snow like we had up here a few days ago. Thankfully the propane heaters do thaw them out eventually. The only drawback I have to hinged windows is that the framework takes up some viewing room which makes you have to constantly move your head to see around them - at least it does if you have smaller windows. Otherwise, they are very nice.

Make the blind high enough that you don't hit your head on it when you stand up.

The door in the back of the blind is by far the better placement for the door.

Good luck.


----------



## Munsterlndr (Oct 16, 2004)

Get Out said:


> Any plans or pics you have of a 4x6 blind would be fantastic.


In my gallery on pages 22 & 23 are some pics of a 4 x 6 rifle blind that I built ten years ago, that is still going strong. I've also built a 4 x 5 elevated blind and a 5 x 7 crossbow blind using similar construction techniques. I would pass on a stove, use a buddy heater with a grill sized tank located outside the blind and you will stay toasty. 

Here are some pics of the crossbow blind under construction.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

wildthing said:


> Get Out - I built 2 4 x 6 blinds many (30) years ago and we still use them today, I also "inherited" a couple about that size that came with a 40 I purchased. I even made the mistake of building a 4 x 5 about 20 years ago. Even for rifle only hunting you will not be happy with only a 4' depth, especially if your chair rocks or swivels back - you will be hitting the back of your chair on the back of the blind.
> Hinged windows are nice too, as Midalake mentioned. I have some of mine with sliding windows and some with hinged. The sliders do create a problem if you have freezing rain/snow like we had up here a few days ago. Thankfully the propane heaters do thaw them out eventually. The only drawback I have to hinged windows is that the framework takes up some viewing room which makes you have to constantly move your head to see around them - at least it does if you have smaller windows. Otherwise, they are very nice.
> Make the blind high enough that you don't hit your head on it when you stand up.The door in the back of the blind is by far the better placement for the door.
> Good luck.


Ah...Frame-less hinged windows my friend.......Slick........


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

Yes - Those are vents in the upper corners. Not sure whether or not they are necessary - especially with the ventilation afforded with the slide-by windows but they are just a little extra insurance. We do not use vent pipes on our propane stoves in the blinds - never have. We do, as i mentioned have slide-by windows on a lot of our blinds and hinged windows on the others. We generally have a window or two open which gives plenty of ventilation but in the event that we have a guest that may leave all the windows closed I wanted to make sure there was some air flow/ventilation in there.

I will have to take a pic of one of our stove/heaters and post it. They are fabricated from a large single burner propane burner with a box built around it. They keep the blinds plenty warm and we also use the flat top for warming up coffee (in your tin cup of course), and warming breakfast burritos, sandwiches, etc. They work great!


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

Midalake said:


> Ah...Frame-less hinged windows my friend.......Slick........


Oh! OK - you just hinge the plexiglas without framing it. May have to try that.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

wildthing said:


> Oh! OK - you just hinge the plexiglas without framing it. May have to try that.


put whatever shim you're working with 1/4 1/8 across the bottom and overlap the plexi...........same on the top but not as important .


----------



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

Interested in your propane heater please post picks when you can maybe under a new post of blind heaters thanks


----------



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

I had a piece of 2 inch thick bank teller glass from a demo job drilled it and hinged it 
just in case the deer start shooting us hunters


----------



## Luv2hunteup (Mar 22, 2003)

5'x5' interior is a comfortable size for one or two hunters. 

Vented Nu Way vented stoves is my first choice but Mr Heater Buddy will also do.

Black interior helps hide a hunter.

If you have a raised platform don't put your door on the eve side. Snow and ice buildup is not fun to deal with and could lead to disastrous results.


----------



## Get Out (Dec 29, 2010)

wildthing said:


> Yes - Those are vents in the upper corners. Not sure whether or not they are necessary - especially with the ventilation afforded with the slide-by windows but they are just a little extra insurance. We do not use vent pipes on our propane stoves in the blinds - never have. We do, as i mentioned have slide-by windows on a lot of our blinds and hinged windows on the others. We generally have a window or two open which gives plenty of ventilation but in the event that we have a guest that may leave all the windows closed I wanted to make sure there was some air flow/ventilation in there.
> 
> I will have to take a pic of one of our stove/heaters and post it. They are fabricated from a large single burner propane burner with a box built around it. They keep the blinds plenty warm and we also use the flat top for warming up coffee (in your tin cup of course), and warming breakfast burritos, sandwiches, etc. They work great!


Probably a good idea on the vents!!


----------



## weatherby (Mar 26, 2001)

What height from the floor do you place the bottom of your window?


----------



## Munsterlndr (Oct 16, 2004)

4 x 6 is fine for a single rifle hunter and is easier to build since you can use 1 sheet of particle board or ply for the floor and side walls. 5 x 7 is nice for two hunters and also makes it easier to have windows offset, so that you are never silhouetted in them. I like to finish the interior walls with black felt, it absorbs noise, is quiet if you bump it, provides a little insulation and does not have the smell that paint does. Just staple it on. I use little buddy heaters in all my blinds, a single grill tank will last a couple of seasons for me. The blinds are insulated with 2" rigid foam in the walls & floors and fiberglass batt in the ceilings. Doesn't take much to heat them, after initial warm up, the heater usually stays on pilot most of the time, unless it's really cold out.


----------



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

I sat in a kitchen chair and took a measurement like I was shooting it worked for me I also measured the height of that chair from the floor and made my bench that height


----------



## Let It Ride (Jul 28, 2010)

junkman said:


> I have built several blind in 4x6 size.If you would like I could write up the way I built them.I used recycled and repurposed materials.The oldest one is still standing and in good shape at 6 years.If you would like I could do a write up on how they were built.


what would be the cost of a blind,


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

R.J.M. said:


> Interested in your propane heater please post picks when you can maybe under a new post of blind heaters thanks


Here you go RJM



They could use a little paint but they do a great job heating the blind and warming up goodies


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

I tried to post 4 pics on the above post but I keep getting "Error Code 15 - Blocked by Security Rules". Not sure why but it seems if I delete one photo at a time I eventually get it posted. Will try a couple others here:

Nope - The system is only allowing me to post one pic at a time.


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

wildthing said:


> Here you go RJM
> 
> 
> 
> They could use a little paint but they do a great job heating the blind and warming up goodies












Here is one of our home made propane heaters. They work great and the one pictured was built by my grandfather over 35 yrs ago. A little maintenance and a cast iron burner will last forever. In the background there is one we just made for our new blinds this year. Took 2 stainless steel burners from a gas stove and built the frame around them. Work great and too heavy for someone to walk off with if the ever broke into a blind!


----------



## Munsterlndr (Oct 16, 2004)

Here is a 4 x 5 elevated blind that I built about 6 years ago. I probably would not build another one that small, it can get a little cramped but I was limited by having to lift the pre-built wall sections by myself up onto the raised platform without a hoist of any kind and 5 foot wall sections were about all I could handle safely.


----------



## miruss (Apr 18, 2003)

My blind is 5x5 perfect size 6ft tall in back down to about 5-5 in front rain runs off good have a overhang of about 6" all around . have carpet on floors and walls to help with sound windows are plexaglass that are hinged at bottom with one latch at top on the side that i expect to see the deer most i unlatch the top and lean the gun against it when deer shows up grab gun window drops when gun is moved no sound. For heat i use a side burner off a old gas grill hinges in back with one leg in front plenty of heat never have needed anything more then a heavy shirt even in snow storms. I like to enjoy myself deer are second i've had everything from morning omelets to cheese burgers hot coffee. i have a small battery op fan i put up high to blow heat to floor.


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

dewy6068 said:


> View attachment 198065
> 
> 
> Here is one of our home made propane heaters. They work great and the one pictured was built by my grandfather over 35 yrs ago. A little maintenance and a cast iron burner will last forever. In the background there is one we just made for our new blinds this year. Took 2 stainless steel burners from a gas stove and built the frame around them. Work great and too heavy for someone to walk off with if the ever broke into a blind!


Great job Dewy! And you have a flat surface there to heat up your coffee, soup or sandwich too. Do you vent that through the roof with a stovepipe?


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

Munsterlndr said:


> Here is a 4 x 5 elevated blind that I built about 6 years ago. I probably would not build another one that small, it can get a little cramped but I was limited by having to lift the pre-built wall sections by myself up onto the raised platform without a hoist of any kind and 5 foot wall sections were about all I could handle safely.


Nice job on the box blind Munsterlndr. I won't build another 4x5 blind either but your design is very good. Nice to know I can that we can finally agree on something deer hunting related


----------



## ENCORE (Sep 19, 2005)

http://www.papajess.com/


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

wildthing said:


> Great job Dewy! And you have a flat surface there to heat up your coffee, soup or sandwich too. Do you vent that through the roof with a stovepipe?


Thanks! No we don't vent them out the roof anymore. My grandpa did have a vent pipe in his blinds originally, but when he passed and we sold his property and bought closer to home our new blinds didn't have the vent pipe. All our blinds have wood Windows on hinges so you have to open them to see anything which provides plenty of ventilation. 

We have 6 of these in our blinds with very similar designs utilizing salvaged burners!


----------



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

Thanks for the pics I've got a summer project to think about


----------



## IceHog (Nov 23, 2007)

weatherby said:


> What height from the floor do you place the bottom of your window?


40" from the floor is perfect, with a 10" high opening.


----------



## TheCrawdad (May 9, 2009)

I used the heavy 1/4 inch plexiglas with no frame, but I used cabinet door hinges with springs in them. I put the hinges on the top too. When the window gets about 3 inches from closing, it pulls itself shut. When you open it up all the way it stays by itself. Absolutely silent.


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

IceHog said:


> 40" from the floor is perfect, with a 10" high opening.


I'm thinking ours are 36" up from the top of the floor but i would have to measure to remember for sure. We are in hilly country and most of our blinds give you an angle shooting downwards so maybe that's why ours are lower.


----------



## jr28schalm (Mar 16, 2006)

thnx for pics munster..real nicework


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

wildthing said:


> I'm thinking ours are 36" up from the top of the floor but i would have to measure to remember for sure. We are in hilly country and most of our blinds give you an angle shooting downwards so maybe that's why ours are lower.


I also have hilly terrain where one side of blind looks downhill into a cedar swamp and the other side looks up hill. Obviously in this case the Windows need to be different heights so it isn't a one size fits all solution for window height. 

It all depends on terrain and what type of chair you plan to use. If you use an office type chair that reclines and has height adjustment then Windows on the low side is good because you can recline comfortably to the right height to see out the windows.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Ok I'm drawing out plans...

Rear entry door. Open out or in? How far from the wall should the door be? Right tight or a tad off the wall?


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

limige said:


> Ok I'm drawing out plans...
> 
> Rear entry door. Open out or in? How far from the wall should the door be? Right tight or a tad off the wall?


Always opens out, plan the door according to what you need to look at shooting lanes, clearing, road............Or are you doing a three way look and sitting against the door [prefered]?


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Well this will be an elevated blind behind the house. I may angle the blind nw and use 3 sides.

Blind will be at the yellow dot near the barn


----------



## NorthWoodsHunter (Feb 21, 2011)

If your heating it get insulated Windows. Paint inside flat black.


----------



## schopie4 (Oct 14, 2004)

wildthing said:


> I have to agree with 357 Maximum on the 5x5 being the ideal size for a rifle hunting blind. I've built several of them and 5x5 is my favorite. Here are some pics of the blind I built for my wife 2 years ago:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



All I see is a tree.....


----------



## NATTY BUMPO (May 12, 2001)

weatherby said:


> What height from the floor do you place the bottom of your window?


The height of the bottom of your blind windows is a critical measurement. My buddy and I built a 5x8 two years ago in my barn. BTW, perfect for one adult and two kids IME.

I had an old office executive chair scored from HFH. We sat for a long time measuring the best height for shooting a rifle out the windows. We have a shelf running on all sides under the windows and use sandbags for a rest on long shots. My pal's grandson drilled a dandy fat doe DRT @ 175 yards on Thanksgiving weekend.


----------



## tubejig (Jan 21, 2002)

I have been wanting to build one of these for quite some time, but have allergies to mice droppings. How do you guys keep the critters out?


----------



## NATTY BUMPO (May 12, 2001)

tubejig said:


> I have been wanting to build one of these for quite some time, but have allergies to mice droppings. How do you guys keep the critters out?


Build it TIGHT. We built one and bot one (Amish build). Both have sat in the woods for months, and nary a mouse dropping in either.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

NATTY BUMPO said:


> The height of the bottom of your blind windows is a critical measurement. My buddy and I built a 5x8 two years ago in my barn. BTW, perfect for one adult and two kids IME.
> I had an old office executive chair scored from HFH. We sat for a long time measuring the best height for shooting a rifle out the windows. We have a shelf running on all sides under the windows and use sandbags for a rest on long shots. My pal's grandson drilled a dandy fat doe DRT @ 175 yards on Thanksgiving weekend.


Yes the window height is critical. You should set the height for your tallest shooter to be comfortable. Everyone else can adjust the chair or use cushions to get to their correct height.

Ask me how I know.........6'4 and I can tell you the most uncomfortable thing is sitting in a blind for hours on end that the windows are too low in.............


----------



## junkman (Jan 14, 2010)

Let It Ride said:


> what would be the cost of a blind,


I was putting them together at a cost of about $50.00 each.The only material that I purchased were two sheets of OSB a box of screws, hinges,hasp,and a door latch.Everything else was scavenged.If you keep your eyes open you can find alot of materials for free.I salvage 2x4's and plywood from shipping crates.Weather and water proof roof sheeting can be had in the form of old sign sheets.You can score those free from a sign company.Craigslist is also a great place to find free materials.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

Midalake said:


> So how do frozen stair cases work for ya?.......Walkin on egg shells........
> 
> Spend a gobs of money on a sport, wait for the perfect freezing still morning. climb up your frozen staircase so deer in two counties can hear you PRICELESS.......


Most people make enough noise getting in the woods, I am not sure the steps add to it that much. I have steps, but the angle is to step, so I use a hand too. 

When I built mine, I decided I wanted it to be safe. I also added shed style pulls around the door, to have somethng to grab on to.

I have about 12" platform at top. Hasn't been a big deal with snow, even when we had 4' last year. Wind probably blows a bit of it, rest I just wipe my hand

My door swings out. If it is going to swing in you need to add for room. I don't want to bang my chair around just to open the door. Plus if I want to open it fast.

I am going to build a shelf over my heater next year, to cut back on the glow.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

I went with sliding windows. I filed the wood, noise really isn't an issue. But I have blind spots in corners. I may just cut some small holes and screw plexiglass over.

Some people are doing frame less windows? So they are just screwing hinges to plexiglass? No cracking? Re-enforce some how?


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

Rounder said:


> I went with sliding windows. I filed the wood, noise really isn't an issue. But I have blind spots in corners. I may just cut some small holes and screw plexiglass over.
> 
> Some people are doing frame less windows? So they are just screwing hinges to plexiglass? No cracking?  Re-enforce some how?


Yes, No need to re-enforce.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Here's a biggie. 
For doing elevated blinds what do you recommend for stilts? Was thinking of going 10-15' up. Obviously 4-5' in the ground.

So 4x4 4x6 or 6x6?

I was looking at 4x6, there's a big price jump from 16-18'


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

I have sandy soil. What's the best way to sink the post..meaning pea gravel cement in the bottom or what?


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

limige said:


> Here's a biggie.
> For doing elevated blinds what do you recommend for stilts? Was thinking of going 10-15' up. Obviously 4-5' in the ground.
> 
> So 4x4 4x6 or 6x6?
> ...


4x6 is fine........make sure the treated is rated for "ground contact" Some is not and will fail just about as fast as untreated.


----------



## Munsterlndr (Oct 16, 2004)

limige said:


> Here's a biggie.
> For doing elevated blinds what do you recommend for stilts? Was thinking of going 10-15' up. Obviously 4-5' in the ground.
> 
> So 4x4 4x6 or 6x6?
> ...


If you are going to do it, might as well do it right. Here is the elevated platform a buddy of mine built. 6 x 6 posts on cement footings. That blind is not going anywhere even in a hurricane! LoL.


----------



## The Fishing Pollock (May 9, 2006)

I spent a total of 200 bucks building a 5x5'ish sized blind . 2x4 and luan walls, a 2x4 with 3/4 treated osb board and a sloped roof 1/2 sheeting, shingles. 1 bundle of shingles covered it with 2 shingles to spare.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Munsterlndr, 4x6x16 are $34
4x6x18 are $51
6x6x 16 are $80

The price difference is huge. I can't afford to sink that kind of money,I think I'll stick to the 16' boards at the price diff. The 20' are $58 each.

It's beginning to get tempting to go find some trees to cut down and use instead


----------



## bald eagle (Dec 4, 2011)

Munster you forgot one thing, a mail box with address. Very nice. When you purchase treated lumber it should be stamped .40 for ground contact. The post you can use pea gravel for the base or a product called a cookie that is a prefab cement base, this provides good drainage around the post.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

My 4x4x are at angles, I just put them on top of gravel and piece of concrete block. Been over 2 year and lots of winds storms. Mine is 2x4 framed, and very heavy. I am also in heavy woods which cuts the wind down.

As for sliding window noise, if you clean the grove out helps. I think glass without a protectie edge my be louder to. I have one blind that came with the place, that is loud. I may oil the wood next year summer.

LIfting up can help. I ran a hand file through the groove, and have plexiglass, it is quite.

I am thinking abut adding a 5th post to mine. I don't like the idea that if one leg fails, it is coing down, or atleast has to really on back up cable.


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

We used 4x4x16' posts on our new blinds with the floor being 10' from ground. Blind is 5x6' and posts are installed vertical level (no angle) and sunk 4-5' in ground. We don't spend money on gravel or concrete for the posts and some blinds have been up over 10 years with no issues. As long as your posts are braced good to tie them all together it will be solid and shouldn't have any issues.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Thanks dewy


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

So as far as roofs go. Tin would be noisy.. 
So I was either thinking just use plywood with a coat of fiberglass resin and paint or shingle it which would add quite a bit of weight. Is it worth it to shingle?


----------



## Munsterlndr (Oct 16, 2004)

limige said:


> So as far as roofs go. Tin would be noisy..
> So I was either thinking just use plywood with a coat of fiberglass resin and paint or shingle it which would add quite a bit of weight. Is it worth it to shingle?


Rolled roofing, last much longer then just paint.


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

limige said:


> So as far as roofs go. Tin would be noisy..
> So I was either thinking just use plywood with a coat of fiberglass resin and paint or shingle it which would add quite a bit of weight. Is it worth it to shingle?


We used steel roofing on the last 2 with 1/2" osb sheeting under them and the rain is not that loud. Really not much louder than it hitting the leaves. Besides that you can't hide that blind out there anyways and the deer get used to it quickly. I hunted from one of them in the rain and it didn't bother the deer one bit. 

I know one thing for sure, you don't want a leaky roof because it will rot the blind out really quick. After putting that much work and money into it don't skimp on the roof or you will regret it because it's a real pain to crawl up on top of the blind to repair it! You want to make the blind as maintenance free as possible so you can build it and forget about it until next season!


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

dewy6068 said:


> We used steel roofing on the last 2 with 1/2" osb sheeting under them and the rain is not that loud. Really not much louder than it hitting the leaves. Besides that you can't hide that blind out there anyways and the deer get used to it quickly. I hunted from one of them in the rain and it didn't bother the deer one bit.
> 
> I know one thing for sure, you don't want a leaky roof because it will rot the blind out really quick. After putting that much work and money into it don't skimp on the roof or you will regret it because it's a real pain to crawl up on top of the blind to repair it! You want to make the blind as maintenance free as possible so you can build it and forget about it until next season!


Forgot to mention, our oldest blinds have rubber roofing on them and no leaks in over 10 years! Didn't have anymore or our new blinds would have it as well.


----------



## friedperch (Jan 8, 2015)

8 years old .very concield and very warm 5x6 12" overhangs all the way around. Never wet. Looks like the rest of the barns on the farm.


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

Newaygo1 said:


> .......... Since 2009 I have stay in my bind each Deer Season. ......
> 
> Started 4x8 then 8x8 and 3 years back it went to 12x8 in size but being I stay there for several days comfort is key at least for me and saves me $ on motel and gas driving back and forth to town... and no early wake up either...
> 
> Newaygo1


So your deer blind is 12X8 and since 2009 you have camped, eaten, and slept inside your blind and done your bathroom duties outside the blind. How much foot traffic is outside your blind each day with moving food, water and gear around ?
In another post didn't you say something about how few deer that you have seen these past 6-7 years ? I understand saving money, but ya just gotta come up with a better plan.

L & O


----------



## junkman (Jan 14, 2010)

Get Out said:


> ok thanks


I must have deleted them from my SD card.But I will try to explain as best as I can.The base was made from 1 and 1/2 48 inch pallets.Run 2x4's threw the length to make one 6 ft x 4 ft pallet.Take two sheets of obs cut at 6 1/2 ft and cut the peek of the roof.Stand them up and screw them to the ends of your floor base.Take 4 2x4's and cut them 6 ft long.Screw them to the end walls spanning them.Put two of them close to the peek and put the other two so that they are at the edge were the wall and roof meet.So as it stands you have your two end walls standing and your roof framed.I use scrap plywood or osb for the floor sheeting.try to get about 1inch thick 2 layers of half inch or one layer of 1 inch.Once the floor is sheeting is on take 4 more 2x4's and cut them to fit from the floor to were the edge of the roof will be.They are going to be your corners.Fit them so the 2 inch side is against the end wall.Now decide on your front window height befor you skin the front wall.Take 1 2x4 and cut it to span between the 2x4's that you just screwed to the end walls.This will be the bottom of your front window.Cut two scraps of plywood or osb 4 inches x 8 inches.Use these as gussets to connect the front board to the two side boards.I like to do the same for the top of the window alsnce this is done you can start sheeting the front and square up the end walls.The back wall is pretty easy to do.Cut 1 2x4 to reach from floor to the edge of the roof frame.get two steel brackets they sell them at Home Depot in the lumber dept I think the are less than a buck each.Use these to attach the 2x4 to the floor and roof frame.Set it at about 36 inches from the 2x4 that is screwed to the end wall.That will be your door opening.start sheeting the back wall only sheet to the middle of the 2x4 that is the door frame.Cut another piece of scrap plywood at 4 inches by about 38 1/2 inches.Screw this across the top of the door opening.Now cut a piece of wood for the door.Put hinges and a latch on it.Cut the roof sheeting to make about 6 inches of overhang all the way around put on some roofing and paint and you are done.I can build one in about 4 hours start to finish other than paint if I have all materials at hand.If you have any questions feel free to ask.I know my directions got a little wordy.


----------



## pickle252 (Dec 24, 2013)

wildthing said:


> I tried to post 4 pics on the above post but I keep getting "Error Code 15 - Blocked by Security Rules". Not sure why but it seems if I delete one photo at a time I eventually get it posted. Will try a couple others here:
> 
> Nope - The system is only allowing me to post one pic at a time.


Where did you get that heater? I have a buddy heater that i was going to mod so i could hear up a can of soup, but that one is bad ass


----------



## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

pickle252 said:


> Where did you get that heater? I have a buddy heater that i was going to mod so i could hear up a can of soup, but that one is bad ass


I bought the single burner with the legs at a propane dealer. I took that to a welder buddy of mine who fabbed up the sides and top and welded it together. The top is removable, so every few years I can take the top off and use a drill bit to clean out the orifices. I got the first 2 about 20 years ago and have built 4 or 5 more since then. I will post up some close up pics later today and maybe post them up on a new "Heater" or 'Stove" thread later today.


----------



## NATTY BUMPO (May 12, 2001)

dewy6068 said:


> We used steel roofing on the last 2 with 1/2" osb sheeting under them and the rain is not that loud. Really not much louder than it hitting the leaves. Besides that you can't hide that blind out there anyways and the deer get used to it quickly. I hunted from one of them in the rain and it didn't bother the deer one bit.
> 
> I know one thing for sure, you don't want a leaky roof because it will rot the blind out really quick. After putting that much work and money into it don't skimp on the roof or you will regret it because it's a real pain to crawl up on top of the blind to repair it! You want to make the blind as maintenance free as possible so you can build it and forget about it until next season!


^^^^^THIS^^^^^^

We had steel left over from our pole barn build, so that is what we used for roofs for our two recent deer blind builds. Laid up blue board under the steel on the inside ie. Insulation plus sound deadening. The deer got used to the sounds very quickly. Light to put up on elevated platforms. And NO LEAKS.


----------



## junkman (Jan 14, 2010)

pickle252 said:


> Where did you get that heater? I have a buddy heater that i was going to mod so i could hear up a can of soup, but that one is bad ass


Take the burner from a turkey fryer and mount it in a steel box.Set it on low and it will keep a blind nice and warm.Plus you can also heat your lunch on it.


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

Seems like to me most box blinds are nothing more than a glorified place for mice to hang out, ruin and eventually become eye sores. Go with a portable blind and a 2 or 3 sternos for a heat source. Just my 2 cents....


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

michgundog said:


> Seems like to me most box blinds are nothing more than a glorified place for mice to hang out, ruin and eventually become eye sores. Go with a portable blind and a 2 or 3 sternos for a heat source. Just my 2 cents....


I am sure you will never get busted in your portable ground blind with a few "sternos"


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

Midalake said:


> I am sure you will never get busted in your portable ground blind with a few "sternos"


Yeah just like your propane and a big wooden box in the middle of the woods full of mice crap and whatever else is living in it.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

michgundog said:


> Yeah just like your propane and a big wooden box in the middle of the woods full of mice crap and whatever else is living in it.


Well your general distaste is flawed with misconceptions. First off if you build it correct there will be little to no mouse poop or any other poop issues. Also I do not run heat until around 0 [zero] sustained. If you build your blind correct there is no reason to run lots of heat.
Having good permanent blind locations give me a real advantage [in my opinion] over any other stand type in the UP of Michigan. But I know there are useful purposes for a "pop-up" and have used them on many occasions.


----------



## miruss (Apr 18, 2003)

pickle252 said:


> Where did you get that heater? I have a buddy heater that i was going to mod so i could hear up a can of soup, but that one is bad ass


Instead of a buddy heater I took a side burner off a gas grill mounted 2 hinges on one side and one leg on the other i have a 5x5 blind and never needed more then a t shirt . don't have to worry about it leave it out year round. a 20lb tank lasts all year. You name it i've cooked it , omelets and toast in mornings, soup or hamburgs in afternoon coffee all day long


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

michgundog said:


> Seems like to me most box blinds are nothing more than a glorified place for mice to hang out, ruin and eventually become eye sores. Go with a portable blind and a 2 or 3 sternos for a heat source. Just my 2 cents....


I completely disagree! If built properly you won't get mice in them and even if you do and spend a few minutes each year to properly clean them out and maintain them they will last a very long time!


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

michgundog said:


> Seems like to me most box blinds are nothing more than a glorified place for mice to hang out, ruin and eventually become eye sores. Go with a portable blind and a 2 or 3 sternos for a heat source. Just my 2 cents....


This is a thread about building a box blind. If you don't have anything positive to add maybe you should refrain from posting to troll for an argument. 

Imo, has been a great thread so far.


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

limige said:


> This is a thread about building a box blind. If you don't have anything positive to add maybe you should refrain from posting to troll for an argument.
> 
> Imo, has been a great thread so far.


Sorry for giving an opinion or an alternate idea. It's still a good thread IMO. FYI being married I don't have to troll the Internet for arguments.


----------



## MDH (Aug 1, 2006)

michgundog said:


> Sorry for giving an opinion or an alternate idea. It's still a good thread IMO. FYI being married I don't have to troll the Internet for arguments.


Your "idea" added nothing to the original post or the overall thread. Otherwise, I've really loved this thread. Great info guys!


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

michgundog said:


> ............
> . FYI being married I don't have to troll the Internet for arguments.


LOL

L & O


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

MDH said:


> Your "idea" added nothing to the original post or the overall thread. Otherwise, I've really loved this thread. Great info guys!


I agree it does have a lot of great info. I think by giving my opinion on box blinds as mice hang outs gave me at least some insight into if I ever build another one I need to make it more air tight. I've built a few and I guess proves what I knew all along, Im not a builder. Hence is why I opted for portables.


----------



## A.M. General (May 3, 2001)

I built what I believe was a beauty last year but it's filled with mice too. Also, not in the spot I'd prefer but my fil owns the property. So, it sits where it does and is a great mouse haven


----------



## MDH (Aug 1, 2006)

michgundog said:


> I agree it does have a lot of great info. I think by giving my opinion on box blinds as mice hang outs gave me at least some insight into if I ever build another one I need to make it more air tight. I've built a few and I guess proves what I knew all along, Im not a builder. Hence is why I opted for portables.


Fair enough for sure. I have one that was built years ago in the U.P. and it's definitely a mouse haven't, but it's super comfortable and quiet. To each their own I'd say! Good luck hunting the rest of the season.


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

MDH said:


> Fair enough for sure. I have one that was built years ago in the U.P. and it's definitely a mouse haven't, but it's super comfortable and quiet. To each their own I'd say! Good luck hunting the rest of the season.


Same to you and next season.


----------



## gtokid1 (Oct 21, 2008)

5x5 all exterior plywood shingle roof.
Used Shadow Hunter Silent Shadow Gun Window Kit.
Been up 6 years and no issues or leaks.


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

Kinda been reading this thread off and on for a while and there are some great ideas and shacks here..I just recently lost my phone with the pics of a shack I built a few years ago...I bought a Lowe's Rubbermaid 54"X60"' storage shed and bolted it down to a 6'X6'X10' tall wood platform (sunk in poles)..I cut in 4 Plexiglas's windows and carpeted the floors and walls for noise and insulation...Exterior of shed has no maintenance ever..Shed was put together separately and two us lifted it off the back off a pick up truck easily on top of fixed platform and then bolted...About 8-10 hrs of labor and less than $800 in material..Bought shed on sale in late fall..I'll post pics when I get some..


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

Pic of similar Lowe's Rubbermaid shed..


----------



## laterilus (Mar 18, 2006)

Anyone ever try these? I've got a neighbor to my north west that decided to trim a shooting lane on my land. So I'm putting a box blind out there, for me and the kids. The brackets seem to be fool proof.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 7, 2009)

I have constructed lots of blinds from ground to elevated blinds. I see no need for brackets. Save the money and upgrade in other places.


----------



## NATTY BUMPO (May 12, 2001)

sniper said:


> Kinda been reading this thread off and on for a while and there are some great ideas and shacks here..I just recently lost my phone with the pics of a shack I built a few years ago...I bought a Lowe's Rubbermaid 54"X60"' storage shed and bolted it down to a 6'X6'X10' tall wood platform (sunk in poles)..I cut in 4 Plexiglas's windows and carpeted the floors and walls for noise and insulation...Exterior of shed has no maintenance ever..Shed was put together separately and two us lifted it off the back off a pick up truck easily on top of fixed platform and then bolted...About 8-10 hrs of labor and less than $800 in material..Bought shed on sale in late fall..I'll post pics when I get some..


I remember when you posted about this idea. Unique and certainly thinking "outside the box", so to speak. And, I'll bet its no "mouse house" either.


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

NATTY BUMPO said:


> I remember when you posted about this idea. Unique and certainly thinking "outside the box", so to speak. And, I'll bet its no "mouse house" either.


I caulked all the seams and it's dam near air tight...Thinking about doing another one this spring but this next one will be bow friendly..


----------



## michgundog (Feb 22, 2008)

sniper said:


> Pic of similar Lowe's Rubbermaid shed..


Post pics of the finished product. I know the menards in BC has these and may even cost less(??) 

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...nd/p-1444425722943-c-13885.htm?freeFormRowId=


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

michgundog said:


> Post pics of the finished product. I know the menards in BC has these and may even cost less(??)
> 
> https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...nd/p-1444425722943-c-13885.htm?freeFormRowId=


Back out this week and I'll take some pics..I believe I paid around $300 on sale at the time for the shed and the rest of the cost was in treated lumber for the stand, plexiglass and misc items.
My set up is a lawn mower storage shed not an actual deer blind..But that Menard's deer blind would be ideal...


----------



## junkman (Jan 14, 2010)

The mouse poop is a great cover sent.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

Midalake said:


> So how do frozen stair cases work for ya?.......Walkin on egg shells........
> 
> Spend a gobs of money on a sport, wait for the perfect freezing still morning. climb up your frozen staircase so deer in two counties can hear you PRICELESS.......


30 degrees Saturday morning. LIttle bit of noise going up my steps, nothing compared to the walk in on the frozen leaves.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

What about seating? The blinds with my property came with benches across the back. I screwed the top down to make the quite. I had an office chair I used for 3 years in the blind I built. This year is just seemed noisey. Old? Lube?

I may go to bench across the back. Would give me storage underneath,and place to set things next to me.


----------



## dewy6068 (Jan 5, 2010)

Rounder said:


> What about seating? The blinds with my property came with benches across the back. I screwed the top down to make the quite. I had an office chair I used for 3 years in the blind I built. This year is just seemed noisey. Old? Lube?
> 
> I may go to bench across the back. Would give me storage underneath,and place to set things next to me.


We use office desk chairs in our blinds because they are comfortable, lean back, and have wheels to allow us to move them easily. They will make a little noise from time to time but it's not loud enough for the deer to hear it outside the blind. I've tested that theory with deer 20 yds away and the never even looked at the blind.


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

Maybe it was in my head, but it sure seemed to creek more this year then last year.


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

sniper said:


> Back out this week and I'll take some pics..I believe I paid around $300 on sale at the time for the shed and the rest of the cost was in treated lumber for the stand, plexiglass and misc items.
> My set up is a lawn mower storage shed not an actual deer blind..But that Menard's deer blind would be ideal...


Sorry for the delay fellas..Just got into my box tonight..Nice and snug in here..33 and breezy Hillsdale County..here's a few quick pics of the blind..


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

sniper said:


> Sorry for the delay fellas..Just got into my box tonight..Nice and snug in here..33 and breezy Hillsdale County..here's a few quick pics of the blind..


Any reason not to have placed the ladder about a foot to the right and then make it 3' taller ? Seems like it would have been a lot easier to get on & off the platform. 

L & O


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

Not sure what you mean by taller?..The corner 4X4s are 12 footers and are sunk in the ground around 2'..I bolted the shed to the corner of the platform to give me about 2 feet of porch to get in and out pretty easily. There are 2 swinging doors on that side of entry..The left door opens first so I just step to the right when opening..Easy peasy..

I see what your saying L&O..The ladder taller right?.Could've done it that way to, but not sure if I could've opened the right door all the way..


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

sniper said:


> Not sure what you mean by taller?..


Higher, but below the window. Then when stepping on and off the platform you have the top of the ladder to grab onto. You don't need to open that right door with the window to get in and out of the coop do you ?

L & O


----------



## sniper (Sep 2, 2005)

Liver and Onions said:


> Higher, but below the window. Then when stepping on and off the platform you have the top of the ladder to grab onto. You don't need to open that right door with the window to get in and out of the coop do you ?
> 
> L & O


Correct...If I ever fall off the ladder I'll be barking at you all the way down!...lol


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

In case anyone is having trouble visualizing what I mean. I use antenna towers instead of ladders. This set up is in my backyard and the tower is taller than it needs to be for having a safe place to grab onto when getting on and off platform. 
I also use towers for my hang-on stands. Then they are straight up and down and are strapped to the tree. Private land. I am going to all ladderstands so I have quite a few of these that I will be selling.

L & O


----------



## R.J.M. (Jun 10, 2007)

Had a friend with rug ask if I wanted it sure I've got a spot for that --- in the deer blind


----------



## ltcnav (Oct 10, 2010)

R.J.M. said:


> Had a friend with rug ask if I wanted it sure I've got a spot for that --- in the deer blind











This is my blind, shooting room up top, living/bunk below.


----------



## HUBBHUNTER (Aug 8, 2007)

ltcnav said:


> View attachment 199607
> 
> This is my blind, shooting room up top, living/bunk below.


You sir, are awesome!


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

ltcnav said:


> View attachment 199607
> 
> This is my blind, shooting room up top, living/bunk below.


Do you only spend the night in the area below when hunting the next day so you would have a main cabin/camper somewhere else ? Or is that your cooking/sleeping area whenever you visit your hunt area ?

L & O


----------



## RMH (Jan 17, 2009)

Liver and Onions said:


> In case anyone is having trouble visualizing what I mean. I use antenna towers instead of ladders. This set up is in my backyard and the tower is taller than it needs to be for having a safe place to grab onto when getting on and off platform.
> I also use towers for my hang-on stands. Then they are straight up and down and are strapped to the tree. Private land. I am going to all ladderstands so *I have quite a few of these that I will be selling.*
> 
> L & O


I would take a couple........


----------



## kenn1320 (Aug 6, 2004)

For the guys with a platform larger than the blind, what are you using to deck it? Standing water can cause damage. My dads blind didnt have any deck exposed, the outer walls ran straight down past decking. Trap door in the floor with ladder under the blind, not exposed to most of the elements. Steel half inch rod ran through the floor joist locked the door, small opening between the joist to get access to the lock. Only required small lock as the bar is what locked the door. Would have been tough to cut that lock as the body of it was all you could see. He used 4x4x16 poles 4ft in the ground and it worked great.


----------



## twoharleymark (Oct 8, 2014)

ibthetrout said:


> I built a 4 x 6 this summer. Windows are 38" at the bottom, 12 inches tall. I am working on some plexiglass windows for the inside and I am doing a swing up style. My door is on the side of the shack since I did a 4 x 6 on a 4 x 8 base (a 2 foot "porch"). Used half of an old aluminum extension ladder. Floor height is 8 foot. I built mine and then dragged it out to the field with a tractor. I wont ever do that again. I wanted mine to be comfortable for me, but enough room 2 could share it. Siding is the cheap $15 a sheet camo 1/2" osb. 30 year architectual shingles left over from my house on the roof. Floor is 2x6 joist (2x4 would have been fine) and 3/4" plywood. I spent just under $300 to build mine. Mostly new wood, I think I already had a few 2x4's and I had the 4x4 corner posts. I have more pics if you want to see any other details.


I'm researching for a box blind want to go with a 4'x6' blind but some say its too small, how do you like the size of your blind? Thanks


----------



## hawgeye (Mar 3, 2011)

twoharleymark said:


> I'm researching for a box blind want to go with a 4'x6' blind but some say its too small, how do you like the size of your blind? Thanks


Its nice to have it 5×6. The extra room is handy with 2 peope and a heater. 4x6 is fine for 1 guy.


----------



## IceHog (Nov 23, 2007)

5' X 5' is the optimal size in my opinion.


----------



## NATTY BUMPO (May 12, 2001)

hawgeye said:


> Its nice to have it 5×6. The extra room is handy with 2 peope and a heater. 4x6 is fine for 1 guy.


1+

For our new blind this year, we went 5x6'. Just about perfect for two people IME.


----------



## mrbeachtc (Oct 1, 2010)

Nice looking blinds! Here is a 4x4 one I built in 2010 in Bay County.




  








CIMG0012




__
mrbeachtc


__
Oct 3, 2010


__
1


----------



## Rounder (Nov 11, 2015)

It is the time of year we should be thinking about blinds, rather then fall as we run out of time.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

I'm waiting till I get all my spring planting done then I will work on my blind


----------



## ibthetrout (Sep 24, 2003)

I built my first one last summer and then placed in a spot that looked good......until the leaves fell. I'll be moving it soon to a spot that should allow me to cover most of the field. I will finish off a few things I did not get to last year. I still need to put up the plexiglass windows I made. I have carpet for the floor. I want to seal up all the cracks, a wasp buzzing you during prime time is a bad thing. I'd like to insulate it, without buying anything. Anyone got any good ideas for free insulation? I was thinking maybe some drop ceiling tiles?

My kids are now old enough that I will repurpose their old swing set tower (4x4 5 feet high) into another blind. With a few changes it should work out well with minimal work.


----------



## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

mrbeachtc said:


> Nice looking blinds! Here is a 4x4 one I built in 2010 in Bay County.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

ibthetrout said:


> I built my first one last summer and then placed in a spot that looked good......until the leaves fell. I'll be moving it soon to a spot that should allow me to cover most of the field. I will finish off a few things I did not get to last year. I still need to put up the plexiglass windows I made. I have carpet for the floor. I want to seal up all the cracks, a wasp buzzing you during prime time is a bad thing. I'd like to insulate it, without buying anything. Anyone got any good ideas for free insulation? I was thinking maybe some drop ceiling tiles?
> 
> My kids are now old enough that I will repurpose their old swing set tower (4x4 5 feet high) into another blind. With a few changes it should work out well with minimal work.


Hang the inside with cheap sheathing and stuff the voids with old clothing. Old jeans, t-shirts, towels, etc. work well. Anything that traps air will be a good insulator. They are making house insulation out of denim scraps from clothing manufacturers now.


----------



## srconnell22 (Aug 27, 2007)

ibthetrout said:


> Anyone got any good ideas for free insulation?.


This showed up on my phone this morning. Not sure if it would work for you or not.


----------



## ibthetrout (Sep 24, 2003)

Sterling Heights is a little bit of a haul for me, but that is the type of thing I need to keep an eye out for.


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

I had this given to me recently. Its an awesome blind but i wonder what i could put on the inside walls to deaden sounds from the tin can effect?


----------



## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

Sorry forgot the pic


----------



## Phoolish (Aug 17, 2011)

here is a blind i designed its a 4x6 i color coordinated it so i knew where the broads were located. and the bottom part is to make sure i get the most out of each 10 foot broad with little waste. some colors may be hard to see but in my CAD program it has a black back ground. still not done, i have a couple thing i need to change just haven't had the time
View attachment 228843


----------



## magtech (Aug 3, 2010)

7x7 floor, if not 8x8. Theres nothing like being able to sleep in your blind and surprise the deer.


----------

