# Basement Sewage



## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

Mom and Dad left the state and I found their sewage had backed-up into the "Root-Cellar" and I need to disinfect and deoderize the basement after correcting. Fan has been drying out after I poured "Clorox" all over! I dumped boxes of Baking Soda all over...I need to shovel out the remains but... What else do I do to remedy the situation?? Thanks!


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## Flyhack (Jul 12, 2009)

foxfire69 said:


> Mom and Dad left the state and I found their sewage had backed-up into the "Root-Cellar" and I need to disinfect and deoderize the basement after correcting. Fan has been drying out after I poured "Clorox" all over! I dumped boxes of Baking Soda all over...I need to shovel out the remains but... What else do I do to remedy the situation?? Thanks!


Sorry to hear about your recent find. First thing is to determine how it happened and prevent it from continuing. Second, Clean up all of the solids as much as you can along with the wet stuff. You don't want a bunch of dried out poo floating in the air where you can breathe it. Third...sanitize , sanitize, sanitize, a 10 percent solution of liquid bleach will kill all of the bacteria. You don't need pure bleach. That will just make it difficult to breathe and bleach everything out. Finally, any drywall needs to be removed before mold begins to grow. You might have luck sanitizing any wood with the bleach solution to prevent mold. Monitor and make sure you parents know it happened so they are not surprised if mold develops later.

Good luck


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

How about home owners insurance? If the injector pump failed you may be covered. Then you can get someone who handles that kinda stuff to do the job.


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## tmanmi (Sep 20, 2005)

Might want to run dehumidifier after cleanup also. City sewer or septic? If city they might be responsible for clean up costs.


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## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

Thanks Guys!! I hopefully have it under control! The 75' sewer pipe had tree root blockage that created backup which back-flowed into the weakest link...the standoff pipe for the water softener drain line!! The neighbors trees create an ongoing problem that must be resolved!! What a cleanup mess!! Copper Sulfate crystals might help...or not!


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## cityboy2977 (Jul 27, 2009)

for the tree roots put rock salt in the sewage pipes. it will kill the roots and prevent new ones from growing.
all plant life hates salt.


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## KEN-813 (Nov 4, 2006)

Bleach mixture will work OK, as mentioned above any and all affected contents and drywall must me removed and contents thrown out.
If it is a finished basement, All studs affected must be scrubbed power washed or removed, unless you will need heavy duty air movers Commercial grade not household and a commercial restoration grade dehumidifier to help dry out the moisture that has penetrated the wood studs if you don't you may have a mold problem in the future. air circulation is a must to help dry but you need a large Dehumidifier to get the moisture out of the air that the fans move.
Unfortunately no over the counter De Hue will remove enough moisture.
Good Luck!
Probably would have been a good idea to call in the Pros!


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## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

House built in the 40's, MI basement, old coal room turned root cellar turned storage...only some 3" wood planks to dry out after shoveling and fan-forced drying!! Oh, I'm sure there will be some further drying and cleaning or wood disposal!! I think overall they were lucky!! As for the ongoing tree root sewer line problem...? Thanks for your input guys!! I now know "everything" regarding this fiasco!!  

Ps: I'm very upset that I missed Spankys Meat and Greet though)(*^&%$#@#$%^!!


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## williewater99 (Sep 8, 2000)

:coolgleam Copper sulfate, salt, and other chemical treatment will only "burn" the tips of the roots, providing a temporary solution. Most tree roots grow in from the top of the crock joints and hang down like a veil. Using a snake, with the proper size cutting head, can provide longer lasting relief, but remember, the roots have found their way in and will eventually become too thick to cut or effectively "burn". The only "permanent" solution is to have the pipe replaced with Schedule 40 PVC. Cutting down any offending trees can eventually halt root growth, but deep rooted trees, such as silver maple and willows can have root growth continue for approx. 7 years after the tree has been cut down.


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## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

williewater99 said:


> :coolgleam Copper sulfate, salt, and other chemical treatment will only "burn" the tips of the roots, providing a temporary solution. Most tree roots grow in from the top of the crock joints and hang down like a veil. Using a snake, with the proper size cutting head, can provide longer lasting relief, but remember, the roots have found their way in and will eventually become too thick to cut or effectively "burn". The only "permanent" solution is to have the pipe replaced with Schedule 40 PVC. Cutting down any offending trees can eventually halt root growth, but deep rooted trees, such as silver maple and willows can have root growth continue for approx. 7 years after the tree has been cut down.


Actually that's what I figured!! Oh Goodie!!

What ya doing next weekend buddy?? 

Ps: What would be the proper cutting head??


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## williewater99 (Sep 8, 2000)

foxfire69 said:


> Actually that's what I figured!! Oh Goodie!!
> 
> What ya doing next weekend buddy??
> 
> Ps: What would be the proper cutting head??


:coolgleam Next weekend I hope to be walleye fishing in Huron, Ohio. I excavated and repaired a couple thousand sewers over a 26 year career and have no desire to stick my hands anywhere near someone else's sewage (sorry). The best equipment for "snaking" a sewer I've used is the Electric Eel. It's more powerful than a drum type for cutting root masses outside the house. Start the job with an "arrowhead" style cutter, then move to a 3 or 4 inch spring cutter (they're round and look like a sawmill blade), as long as you're dealing with 6 inch crock. If the line is smaller than that, you'll have to downsize the cutting head to have clearance in the pipe (you don't want to get it stuck or you WILL HAVE TO EXCAVATE THE LINE). Run the snake in until you feel resistance from the cutter head. You want to SLOWLY work the cutter head into the root mass, or the head will bind and the cable will twist (if your renting a unit, you'll have to pay for broken or bent cables). Pull the cable out every once in awhile and clean the roots from the head, then put it back in until it come back fairly clean. Remember...if you end up excavating, call MISS DIG for utility location three days before you begin the job. It' could save you a lot of headache and liability! If you contract out the job, get at least three estimates and references. There are a lot of "shady" sewer repair guys out there. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask, and GOOD LUCK!


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## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

williewater99 said:


> :coolgleam
> If you have any more questions, feel free to ask, and GOOD LUCK!


Lots of great information provided! Thank you Sir!!


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## Big Frank 25 (Feb 21, 2002)

PUBLIC ACT


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## foxfire69 (Sep 10, 2006)

Big Frank 25 said:


> PUBLIC ACT


Thanks!


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## wall-ib-jiggin (May 31, 2009)

I had the same problem my solution was quite easy:

1. run cutter through tile till it was good and clean, took a while..Make sure it goes easy at least 4", when to get to roots hawg it out good.

2. My line was a "straight shot" 72' I used Sc 40 and started sliding section, glue, section, glue, and so on right up the tile till it hit the house. As you get to root area you might have to work at it and persuade it to go but if you cleaned it out good it will. 

Roots can grow all they want now but can clog it! I have only two place they could clog and thats the ends that I can get at!!

I got lucky it was a straight line and cleaned out good..


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