# Why You should Tumble Cases



## Ricciardelli (Mar 26, 2000)

I have seen many (actually too many) discussions in the reloading forums on why it is unnecessary to "tumble" your cases. I use the term "tumble" generically here. My preference for case cleaning is the vibrator type cleaner. 

I have also seen too many posts by the "experts" in reloading forums stating that reloaders shouldn't waste the money on commercially prepared tumbling media, but instead should go to their local hardware store and buy kitty litter! 

Well, for less than $1 per pound I will buy commercially packaged Lyman media. A 3-pound charge is good for several thousand cases, and it does one hell of a job! 

First of all there are basically two types of media, walnut and corncob. The walnut media is treated with red jeweler's rouge and the corncob is treated with a green polish. The walnut is a little more coarse in size. 

Here's my suggestion on cleaning the cases. 

If the cases are really nasty (dirty, corroded, discolored) tumble them for about one hour in the walnut media, and then for about one hour in the corncob. 

If the cases are semi-nasty (smoke residue, slight discoloration) tumble them for about an hour in walnut media. 

And for cases that are "normal" (basically clean and good-looking (like me)) tumble them for about one hour in treated corncob media. 

Below you will find four pictures. The first is of some really nasty 9mm cases. These were fired and reloaded over 17 times. The empty cases landed in snow, and I left them there for 3 weeks. When the snow melted and the temperature got above freezing I picked the cases out of the ground, and this is what they looked like! 










The next picture is from the same batch of cases, after they have been "tumbled" in a Lyman 2200 vibrator cleaner for one hour using only Lyman treated corncob media. Cases were still discolored and areas of corrosion were still evident. 










The next picture is from the same batch of cases, after they have been "tumbled" in a Lyman 2200 vibrator cleaner for one hour using only Lyman treated walnut media. This removed most areas of discoloration and corrosion, but the cases were not highly shined. 










The final picture is from the same batch of cases, after they have been "tumbled" in a Lyman 2200 vibrator cleaner for one hour using Lyman treated walnut media, followed by one hour using Lyman treated corncob media. Here all the discoloration and corrosion were removed, and the cases had that "gun show" shine. (Remember these case were fired 17 times and left in the weather for three weeks before being cleaned!) 










Now, you can say what you want, but I will pick brass that looks like the last picture every time! Is it worth the extra cost (less than, $0.006 each) and time (about 1 hour)? You bet it is!


----------



## Sarge (Apr 25, 2000)

Thanks, that's pretty much what I've read. I haven't started any brass reloading yet and I need all the clarification I can get. Its really good to have experienced people to look to for informatio.

I hope I don't come off as one of the "so called" experts I never intend to. I do read up on subjects and share what I find, hopefully it doesn't come across like I know what I'm saying. That woudl be as far from true as me saying I'm skinney. I would hope that I am.... compared to SOMEONE, but not many for sure.

While I have your ear, I saw an add for new, adjustable trigger groups for my Ruger 77MKII. I don't remember where, or the name but could find it again. Do you know of some that are a good replacement? My trigger pull is absurd. I do hit the target and I do kill deer, but I feel like I should do finger excersizes before I dare go shooting. I am reluctant to be without my rifle long enough for someone else to re-work the original trigger and am curious if the after market ones are good quality.


----------



## Ricciardelli (Mar 26, 2000)

There are several manufacturers of aftermarket trigger groups for the Ruger 77 MKII...but quite honestly, none are as good as the original trigger on the original Ruger 77!

The first two that come off the top of my head are Jewel and Timney. They both have websites...

However...I have a friend in Texas who has Ruger 77's and put a Jewel in one and a Timney in the other...he had quite a bit of trouble with the Timney. Took 4 phone calls to them and 4 replacements before he finally received an acceptable one.


Me? I only have one MKII, and I re-worked the stock Ruger trigger...very gently...and got the pull down from 12 pounds to around 4 (which is what I like in a hunting gun). Also worked out the backlash and the creep.

If I were still getting $35 per hour for smith work, the trigger job would have cost more than the rifle.

Try the Jewel...


----------



## Sarge (Apr 25, 2000)

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Benchshooter (Jan 18, 2000)

We my son and I will let the brass run in the tumbler for 2 to 3 hours with the lyman corncob media and our brass comes out nice and clean, then at that time we take them out and inspect them and clean out the primmer area and rub down the cases 
we use the brush to clean out the inside of casing oh yea it kinda makes a difference in the size of cases you put in the tumbler and how many you put in it. I think it is a good part of the reloading thing because you can work and talk at the same time at this stage ha ha....

I was wondering about the Timney trigger for my Ruger 77 too, thanks for the info. Think I will leave it alone....

Happy shooting


----------



## Aspen Hill Adventures (Feb 25, 2001)

Sarge, check "Rifle Basix" for a replacement trigger for your Ruger. They may have them for your model. I am going to put one in my Savage .300 Win Mag. That brand of replacement trigger has been recommended by a gunsmith friend of mine.

Good luck.


----------

