# Bear coolers?



## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Assuming no access to a walk in cooler is available would a larger chest freezer be a good alternative to get a bear cooled down quickly? This will be my second tag. The first time I drew I didn’t work that minor detail out before the hunt. I’m thinking given the usual hunt time a recovery could be later in the evening or night and getting it to a walk in cooler or taxidermist if warranted may not be possible. With the potential September temps and the amount of fat a bear holds I’m not sure filling it full of ice would work like you do with deer.


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## Tilden Hunter (Jun 14, 2018)

This issue is one reason I prefer 3rd season tags. Consider boning out the meat yourself if the temps are bad enough. By last September - early October I've found ice in the cavity sufficient for keeping overnight.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

So, here is what I did...

I was alone when I shot my last bear. Took me nearly 3 hours, a quad, sled and winch to get it dressed and back to camp. Temp wasn't too hot, about 60 over night low. In the 70's when I shot it.

At camp we have a well, so I used the cold water to not only flush the cavity, but to cool it fast as I could. I propped the bear on both sides to keep it on its back, then left the garden hose with pretty frigid well water flowing for a good hour. Then, I stuffed the chest cavity and stomach area with jugs of ice. Also strapped one between the legs. Hung it up off the ground for the night.

Next morning I had to pack, plus a 2 hour drive to my gramps house where I was going to skin and quarter. Needed to skin before checking in due to the temps pushing into the low 80's by this time. The ice jugs were still pretty cold but mostly water now. After photos, I started skinning and was surprised how cool the meat was. Not only just around the ribs, but the top of the back and even the hindquarters. Neck was fairly cool as well I assume from the cold water flowing through from chest to mouth and nose.

Once skinned which took a while because I was doing a full mount, got it quartered and into the meat fridge while I took the head/hide in for sealing. When I got back, started deboning and making cuts and packaging. Everything turned out GREAT. No spoiled meat, no smell. All total about 20 hours from bullet impact.

I think if you shoot one in the evening and take the effort to get it quartered immediately a chest freezer will work great (unless you mean it'll fit a WHOLE bear?). Skinning and quartering would help a lot but is not 100% necessary. If you don't have the time or are as tired as I was, I do think you'll be fine packing it in ice too. If you have cold water available it helps a LOT to get most of that body heat out fast. Ice doesn't touch every square inch of surface inside and flow like cold water, but it is well worth the effort to get the meat cooled enough for a few hours and travel the next day.

The thing about the chest freezer is you should get it cold ahead of time or it'll take forever to cool down when you put the bear in. You can help the compressor out when you put the bear in initially by having a few jugs of ice in there already to suck up some of the heat.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

I guess the thing I forget about is the chest freezer will likely cause some actual freeze of some of the meat. I'd probably check on it half way through the night and maybe turn it off and leave ice jugs in there. Just a lot more fun cutting meat that is not rock hard, or if you're not skinning it right away, its easier to skin an animal when its a little flexible lol


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Yes I was thinking of tossing the whole bear in the cooler. The plan was to get it cold before the hunt began and simply toss the bear in with additional jugs of ice. I’m in the red oak unit so a third season tag doesn’t work there. My parents having a flowing well at their cabin that I could cool the bear down quickly as well using your same strategy. Thanks for the good idea.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

I assume then you're gonna have help for lifting a whole bear into a freezer. Keeping the freezer outside I hope lol. If so I suggest putting it under a strong tree limb or buck pole so you can use a hoist/chainfall or pulley and truck to get the bear in. Lots easier than manhandling it if you get a big one. Smaller to average bear wouldn't be much of a problem.

You mentioned chest freezer and then cooler... do you mean you'll be using a chest freezer like a cooler (no power)?


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Yes. I will have others there. Plan would be to plug it in. Cool it down and run for a short period to cool it down and unplug so it doesn’t freeze.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

I think you'll be fine with that.

Best of luck to you!!!!


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## jackbob42 (Nov 12, 2003)

chuckinduck said:


> Yes. I will have others there. Plan would be to plug it in. Cool it down and run for a short period to cool it down and unplug so it doesn’t freeze.



Is it possible to plug it in ahead of time and adjust the temp to hold at 40 degrees and then just plug it in when time to hunt ? Thus preventing the meat from freezing.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

jackbob42 said:


> Is it possible to plug it in ahead of time and adjust the temp to hold at 40 degrees and then just plug it in when time to hunt ? Thus preventing the meat from freezing.


You just reminded me of something...

I have a temperature controller that I use for plant seedlings. The probe goes in the soil, and the cord into a grounded outlet. The heat mat plugs into the controller. Basically, it's an on/off controller like your fridge or house thermostat. It would essentially be like plugging in and unplugging the freezer based on temp. Does a chest freezer actually have the ability to be set above freezing without this type of secondary control?

Now I don't know how much current my controller can handle but its gotta be a fair amount and it wasn't all that expensive. Not sure of the low end of temp range either.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

This might work perfectly if the freezer is not capable of temps above freezing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015E2UFGM/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8


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## Firefighter (Feb 14, 2007)

You shall buy us this:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bfs/d/6-4-walk-in-refrigerator/6635083878.html

I shall help you empty the keg after you shoot the bear.


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Not sure a freezer can get that high. Maybe if you kept it cracked open.


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

It would be cool to see if that device would work to regulate the temps.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

chuckinduck said:


> It would be cool to see if that device would work to regulate the temps.


I dont see why it wouldn't as long as it is good with the voltage and current demand the compressor. The one I linked above outputs 10 amps at 110v. It's just an on/off like you're plugging/unplugging the freezer. From the reviews it looks like folks use it for brewing beer and maintaining temps. My concern would be the current spike when the compressor kicks on being high. It's usually much higher than once it's running for a second or two.


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## crittrgittr (Sep 11, 2003)

You might want to cut 3 or 4 lengths of 4X4 that will span across the bottom of the freezer.
This will allow good cold air circulation and keep the wet hide from freezing/sticking to the bottom of the freezer.


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## jackbob42 (Nov 12, 2003)

chuckinduck said:


> Not sure a freezer can get that high. Maybe if you kept it cracked open.



I guess finding out would be part of the homework assignment ! LOL


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## Firefighter (Feb 14, 2007)

Build a box with plywood and line it with foam board insulation. Seal the seams with spray foam insulation. 

Place bear in cold casket and put some blocks of dry ice on TOP. 

Done. 

Modular (cut and replace spray foam), cheap and effective.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

Firefighter said:


> Build a box with plywood and line it with foam board insulation. Seal the seams with spray foam insulation.
> 
> Place bear in cold casket and put some blocks of dry ice on TOP.
> 
> ...


I like your idea but it sure isn't as cheap as a chest freezer he already owns (an assumption, hopefully good). But could use the freezer AND your idea of dry ice. As long as dry ice is available. Not sure how long it would keep if hunting a few days.


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

sureshot006 said:


> I like your idea but it sure isn't as cheap as a chest freezer he already owns (an assumption, hopefully good). But could use the freezer AND your idea of dry ice. As long as dry ice is available. Not sure how long it would keep if hunting a few days.


So I did some quick research and it sounds like the constant on and off of the compressor would be very hard on the unit and burn it up


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

chuckinduck said:


> So I did some quick research and it sounds like the constant on and off of the compressor would be very hard on the unit and burn it up


Supposed to be a dead band of like 2 degrees or something. So kick on at 42, turn off at 38. Should really work the same as the thermostat in the freezer already. But... the freezer installed one might be rated for higher amps. Its gotta be under 15 amp in rush otherwise nobody could plug a freezer into a 15 amp GFCI.

But yeah, if running at the ragged edge, the controller relay could have shorter life. Non-mechanical/electrical like ice is always more foolproof!


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## brewster (May 30, 2010)

chuckinduck said:


> So I did some quick research and it sounds like the constant on and off of the compressor would be very hard on the unit and burn it up



I used a honeywell temp controller on a chest freezer kegerator for about 10 years to maintain between 38* and 45*. The freezer eventually died but not because of the controller. 

It would run a while until you've chilled the carcass down then probably very little.


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## Luv2hunteup (Mar 22, 2003)

What would you guys pay to place it in a walk in cooler for a night or two? I’m not offering but just curious.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

Probably $75 for 2 days. One day I ain't paying because I can keep it cool enough myself.


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## brewster (May 30, 2010)

I've gone to this type of controller in my greenhouse and my glycol pump for my fermenter. Works great and I don't have to worry about kinking the capillary tube.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/ranco-digital-temperature-controller-wired.html


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

brewster said:


> I used a honeywell temp controller on a chest freezer kegerator for about 10 years to maintain between 38* and 45*. The freezer eventually died but not because of the controller.
> 
> It would run a while until you've chilled the carcass down then probably very little.


Yah I found more guys that are doing that on YouTube for beer and it seems to be working ok. Looks like the issue arises when the temp variance is smaller which would cause the unit to do more work turning on. The larger the gap between on and off would probably be better. Johnson controls makes a device specifically designed for just this and the nice part is you don’t modify your freezer so if you don’t want it to be a cooler you just unplug it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Luv2hunteup said:


> What would you guys pay to place it in a walk in cooler for a night or two? I’m not offering but just curious.


I would pay $20-30 for one night. Which is all I would need. I have free access to one in my hometown so I’d only need it to bridge the gap and get the meat/hide cooled as fast as possible. 


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## Firefighter (Feb 14, 2007)

Luv2hunteup said:


> What would you guys pay to place it in a walk in cooler for a night or two? I’m not offering but just curious.



I paid a fella 40 for my bear overnight in a walk in. That was just my offer. He didn't have a price. 

I think 20 to 25 per night is reasonable.


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## GrizzlyHunter (Jun 17, 2005)

Wait...What??

Oh, I thought this thread was titled "*Beer* Coolers?"

Never mind...


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

GrizzlyHunter said:


> Wait...What??
> 
> Oh, I thought this thread was titled "*Beer* Coolers?"
> 
> Never mind...


Concept still applies! 40 deg is 40 deg no matter the "species"


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## jjlrrw (May 1, 2006)

sureshot006 said:


> I dont see why it wouldn't as long as it is good with the voltage and current demand the compressor. The one I linked above outputs 10 amps at 110v. It's just an on/off like you're plugging/unplugging the freezer. From the reviews it looks like folks use it for brewing beer and maintaining temps. My concern would be the current spike when the compressor kicks on being high. It's usually much higher than once it's running for a second or two.


This is what I do, I built a controller that can be set between 30 and 50 degrees and has a 3 degree hysteresis so there is not a constant on/off. Once you plug it in it will run until it hits set temp then removes power, if you don't open the lid will sit idle for hours once contents cool down and ambient temps drop. I used some 2x4's and "z" brackets to hang the meat from. Have not used it for bear yet but have to age deer the past few years also it works nice as a cooler for food and drinks if your at camp a number of days prior to the hunt saving on buying ice, I can use my 2000w generator to run it throughout the day then shut if over over night.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=468XN0ZGJPVWTP0HMDHK


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## HTC (Oct 6, 2005)

One small piece of advice to aid in cooling. Take a ziplock bag with you. Whether it is a deer bear or whatever, there is no better time to take the tenderloins out than when you are gutting. You are already bloody and you are right there. Not only will this chill the tenderloins faster and keep them from drying out but the tenderloins insulate the underside of the backstrap and keep that length from chilling as fast.


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## OnHoPr (Jul 21, 2013)

Since it is a cabin location with electricity build one. A few different idears come to mind. Look for a sawmill around to buy rough sawn pine. Build a 4 or 6" wall 4x4x8 shed with angle roof and floor then put in 6" rolled insulation all around, a pulley on the ceiling, decent door sealing, and metal trays or shelves that could hold a few of those cheap aluminum turkey roasters that you could put ice in. Something like an ole ice box. You could keep a bear or deer in there for a week with ice changes. If you made it double walled you could fill it with sawdust from the sawmill for free for insulation. In the middle of August you can go to a in field working bolt mill and get snow or ice in zone 2. 
In addition, since you are a backstabber, build a 4x4x8 shanty with 2x3 hole. Use 2x2s and 2x3s insulate with foam or roll. Make the same temporary shelves to put ice on. Maybe a slip in hinge with dog chain support. Both of these could double as a small shed or even one of those camp shower bag showers. Or, like FF mentioned some form of a coffin chest ice box would work if you put a dozen bags of ice in there, 25 lb blocks, or 20 frozen milk jugs if you have a freezer already.


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## DirtySteve (Apr 9, 2006)

Luv2hunteup said:


> What would you guys pay to place it in a walk in cooler for a night or two? I’m not offering but just curious.


I have done this before twice. Once was in the 90's and once was a couple years ago. In the early 90's we paid $5 a day in newberry. 

A couple years ago in sterling we were charge $20 a night and the fee was waived if we had them cut the bear.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

i use a plastic (shrink Wrap) tent that I made up Its about 4'x4'x8' or a little bigger, and hang it from a truss, with the bear hanging inside. An old window air conditioner sits on the floor with the output cut into the plastic.

It similar to one of those hanging camp showers. and there's enough room inside to quarter it. Have used it for deer also when its warm. 

It would be pretty easy to make one out of blue board or even plywood. As long as only the vent on the air cond. is cut through the wall it will run nonstop


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## Wild Thing (Mar 19, 2010)

Skin it...










Quarter it....










and get it into the fridge ASAP - like before you go to bed.










Turn the fridge down to its coldest setting. I put a couple of ice jugs in the fridge with it but it probably isn't necessary


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## OnHoPr (Jul 21, 2013)

wildthing said:


> Skin it...
> 
> View attachment 328782
> 
> ...


Render it and you got a life time supply of bear grease for the boots. Congrats


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