# MB 650 Problems



## bowhunter19 (Sep 15, 2009)

Hey guys I've just been getting into trapping the last year and I bought some MB 550's and 650's. I dyed and waxed them and now for some reason my 650's won't stay set.(they are dog less) It looks like as I let the pressure off, the pan just slides down and POP! I tried adjusting the pan tension and that only helped when I had it really tight. I also tried scraping the wax off of the latch, under the pan, ect and it keeps doing the same. Anyone that can help me I would really appreciate it! I'm not having the issue with the 550's, I didn't do anything to them after I dyed and waxed them and they are working fine? 
Thanks guys


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

Gotta get all the wax off trigger mechanism or they will fire there should be a notch on piece that pan will sit on. Sterlings are same way get the wax off


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Yup, aside from the lovefest that seems to appear on trpping forums ober the MB's the 650's have an inherent problem. As with many manufactured equipment, different runs can be turned out with varying and in some cases, wide ranging tolerances. Wide ranging enough that an engineer as Freepop would cringe at!:SHOCKED:

You can tighten the pand tension screw until hell freezes over and the trap, depending on the run, will either not stay sey OR will not fire. In fact, being objctive, by using a pan tension devise that measure tension you will notice you can gei 2 lbs with a setting anf the next setting can be 5 lbs and the next setting all most 0 lbs!!

In my opinion, the trap is well engineered BUT that is a double edge sword it the tolerances during manufactring take the trap beyond functionability! Look to the trigger rod as the priblem. if there is ANY lateral play in the rod the torque of the set trap on the pan will very as I've described.

First, make sure the 90* bend at each end of the rod is a true 90*. If there is still lateral play, which there probably is, remove the screw and bracket that supports the far end of the rod to the trap frame and add a washer between the bend and the bracket. This should, remove the play and the torque on the trigger to pan connection should stay a constant. 

I had the same problem with 3 dozen of the 650's and once I figured out the problem and solution, I now can set any trap at 2.5 lbs and set that trap 8 consecutive times and the pan tension will stay at 2.5 lbs. As far as I'm concerned that's a fix for me!

BTW: I posted this on another trapping board some time ago and I had 3 pm's telling me that my fix also fixed their problem!


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

I personally dont like the 650's at all 550 is a much better trap but i have more fox then coyotes. My opinion you want an excellent coyote trap get jakes. Nothing needs to be done to them but very costly.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

I actually forgot to post an important photo-


I bought several dozen just to see what all the hype was about. Once I got them fixed so I could depend on the pan tension I double laminated the jaws and case-hardened the pan edge and trigger. The two positive things I can say about the trap is they have strong springs AND they certainly lay flat, flatter then my Bridgers and Dukes but that's it for positives. The real negative I have with them that in my opinion supersedes the positives is their "as set" jaw shape. I don't like oval at all so I only use the 650's when making a particular set where oval doesn't bother me.


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## bowhunter19 (Sep 15, 2009)

Thank you seldom, I think it was the wax wasn't completely removed, but I like the washer idea I'm gonna have to do some repairs to mine. 


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## springdale (Dec 19, 2007)

I for one love the MB 550's, have 3 dozen with no problems. Caught a Coyote in one this year and only pinched his pad, no toes were caught but he was there waiting when I arived. Also they are offset and do very little damage. my 2 cents.

I havent tried the 650's though.


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