# Broadhead suggestions



## timberdoodle528 (Nov 25, 2003)

Looking for some suggestions on broadheads. I'm thinking mechanical broadheads are out because my draw weight is only 45lbs, and need something that comes in 85 grain.

Someone suggested the Striker's by G5. Anyone use these?

Thanks for the help,

Megan.


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## Joe Archer (Mar 29, 2000)

Megan, 

While shooting 45 pounds, the weight of your broadhead is really dependant on the shaft size, and length of your arrow. If you can shoot 100 grains (should be fine for a 45 pound bow with a matched arrow) I would go with a Thunderhea 100, or Muzzy 100. If you still have the option of arrow selection, I would go with either of the above. 
If your current arrows require you to go lighter, both of these companies also make 85 grain heads, but they have a smaller cutting diameter. 
In any case, I agree and would definitely go with fixed blades. 

<----<<<


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## fulldraw (Nov 20, 2002)

At that low of a poundage I would recommend a cut on contact head like Magnus or steel force. I did notice thought that muzzy just came out with an 85 grain head. Being that you are only shooting 45 pds. you will need to up your head weight to make the connect energy higher. That is why the traditional archers shoot really heavy broad heads.


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## DarkBlue (Feb 18, 2008)

Slick Trick makes a great head in 85gr. I've been shooting the 100's and 125's the last few seasons and have had great results. Scary sharp and fly just like my field points. 

Chris


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## TrekJeff (Sep 7, 2007)

Joe Archer said:


> Megan,
> 
> While shooting 45 pounds, the weight of your broadhead is really dependant on the shaft size, and length of your arrow. If you can shoot 100 grains (should be fine for a 45 pound bow with a matched arrow) I would go with a Thunderhea 100, or Muzzy 100. If you still have the option of arrow selection, I would go with either of the above.
> If your current arrows require you to go lighter, both of these companies also make 85 grain heads, but they have a smaller cutting diameter.
> ...



I'll second that and add that I've never had a Muzzy fail, although I have broke a Thunderhead...started with Thunderheads, then went to Muzzy. Even though I had the TH break, they are still excellent heads.


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

At 45 pounds you could probably get away with just about any type of fixed blade head just keep them as sharp as possible. However, I believe a cut-on-contact head will give you the best possible penetration. Magnus, Muzzy Phantoms, Steel Force, American Broadhead, etc... I really like the looks of the new Razor Trick made by Slick Trick.

My wife used a Phantom 100 two blade and a Gold Tip 35/55 a few years back and took her first archery deer with a full pass-thru shooting 42 pounds.


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## timberdoodle528 (Nov 25, 2003)

Joe Archer said:


> Megan,
> 
> While shooting 45 pounds, the weight of your broadhead is really dependant on the shaft size, and length of your arrow. If you can shoot 100 grains (should be fine for a 45 pound bow with a matched arrow)



Ok, so my next question would be, What determines the shaft size and weight of the arrow I shoot?

My draw length is 26, I shoot a Hoyt Alpha Max 32 and it was shooting 213fps at 40lbs. I've cranked it down to 45 now, so I'd assume it's shooting a little faster, but probably not much.

I don't know the specifics on the arrows I'm shooting right now, I'll check when I get home, but does a heavier arrow = heavier broadhead? With the weight I'm pulling now, I'm wondering if the risk of going with heavier arrows and broadheads is worth the reward???


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## Jet08 (Aug 21, 2007)

Like you said, I wouldnt feel to comfortable shooting mechanicals. But I read about these the other day, maybe worth a shot???

http://www.ragebroadheads.com/Products40KE.aspx


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## Tom (mich) (Jan 17, 2003)

timberdoodle528 said:


> Ok, so my next question would be, What determines the shaft size and weight of the arrow I shoot?
> 
> My draw length is 26, I shoot a Hoyt Alpha Max 32 and it was shooting 213fps at 40lbs. I've cranked it down to 45 now, so I'd assume it's shooting a little faster, but probably not much.
> 
> I don't know the specifics on the arrows I'm shooting right now, I'll check when I get home, but does a heavier arrow = heavier broadhead? With the weight I'm pulling now, I'm wondering if the risk of going with heavier arrows and broadheads is worth the reward???


It's not so much the absolute weight of your arrow, but the spine as well. To answer your question fully, we'll need to know what kind of arrow you're shooting now, and what size it is.

In general, yes, the heavier the arrow, the heavier the broadhead. Your bow is a powerful one, generating a lot of kinetic energy. At 45 pounds draw, you'll want to capitalize on that using the heaviest arrow you can.


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## Joe Archer (Mar 29, 2000)

timberdoodle528 said:


> *Ok, so my next question would be, What determines the shaft size and weight of the arrow I shoot?*
> My draw length is 26, I shoot a Hoyt Alpha Max 32 and it was shooting 213fps at 40lbs. I've cranked it down to 45 now, so I'd assume it's shooting a little faster, but probably not much.
> 
> I don't know the specifics on the arrows I'm shooting right now, I'll check when I get home, but does a heavier arrow = heavier broadhead? With the weight I'm pulling now, I'm wondering if the risk of going with heavier arrows and broadheads is worth the reward???


You can usually look them up recommendations in an arrow chart. A good chart will be adjusted for draw weigh, length, and tip weight. Charts can be online, or on the shipping containers themselves. 
Generally, all things being equal - as you increase your broadhead weight you need to increase the spine of your arrow. Unless you are at one extreme end or another, it would be rare for a 15 gr, change in broadhead weight to make much of a difference. 
<----<<<


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

At 26" DL at 45#'s I'd go with a arrow that could get you around 300+ gr total weight with the broadhead. You should be spined real close to .500 with that setup so go with a .500 spine or a 4560 depending on the mfg. A 25" shaft(the length I'd cut them to) will stiffen up that spine for ya a bit which should put you right in the range you need.. If you plan on using a 100 gr broadhead(more than likely your best scenario)then you will need a shaft with a weight of approx 7gpi or better to get you to 300gr. I'd recommend a Victory Vforce 500 (7.2gpi)

You mentioned the G5 Strikers and I have to say, that would be one GREAT head for you to use. They are unbelievably sharp and fly VERY true. You could certainly do worse but I doubt you could do much better.


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## GuT_PiLe (Aug 2, 2006)

timberdoodle528 said:


> Ok, so my next question would be, What determines the shaft size and weight of the arrow I shoot?
> 
> My draw length is 26, I shoot a Hoyt Alpha Max 32 and it was shooting 213fps at 40lbs. I've cranked it down to 45 now, so I'd assume it's shooting a little faster, but probably not much.
> 
> I don't know the specifics on the arrows I'm shooting right now, I'll check when I get home, but does a heavier arrow = heavier broadhead? With the weight I'm pulling now, I'm wondering if the risk of going with heavier arrows and broadheads is worth the reward???


Before i start, i just want to make clear that what i'm about to say is just a "guide" to start from, my word is not BIBLE....just what i usually go by from my personal expierences.

Having said that

A good place to start, and what many archers use as a guide/starting point is the IBO standard.

Which is 5.0gr per lb of draw weight

In your case (45lb x 5 = 225gr) - This basic figure represents the absolute MINIMUM arrow weight you should be flinging.

(It doesn't take much to get to 225gr. and you'll be well over that with a finished arrow, broadhead, nocks, inserts, vanes etc)

Now for hunting, i'd go a little higher than the IBO 5.0x....maybe like 6-7 which would be a minumum arrow weight of 270gr vs 225gr.


Your shooting relatively light draw (45lb) and relatively short arrow shaft (26")
so you don't need a VERY stiff or heavy spined arrow. You'll most likely be on the lighter spined area of the chart.

I'm a carbon express arrow shooter so i'll use those shafts in this example as thats what i'm familiar with.

A bow with at 45lb draw weight and 26" arrow, your gonna be right around a Carbon Express Hunter Max MAX150 which is about 6.3 gr per inch...

6.3gr x 26"= 163.8gr bare shaft.....now add your broadhead...which to me, i think you'd be better off shooting at least a 100gr since your bare arrow shaft is pretty lite.

163.8 +100= 263.8gr

Add your inserts, knocks, fletchings/vanes your gonna be ROUGHLY around 280ish

270 being your absolute HUNTING minimum weight, you may even be able to screw on a 125gr if you so choose....but i think 85gr may be a bit to light.

I would probably go with 100gr.

***EDIT*** 

I just noticed you said your DRAW LENGTH is 26"....so if your arrow is longer, just substitute the 26" I used with your actual arrow length....this may possibly but you into a different shaft size, but for the most part 6-7gr per inch is where you'll want to be


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## radiohead (Apr 11, 2006)

Like anything else, the best broadhead is the one you shoot the most comfortably and accurately. I have gone through a lot of broadheads in my first 2 years of archery hunting trying to find the one that works best for me. I was shooting a 55# bow and Slick Tricks have been the best for me.
Getting a new bow this year that will be shooting 65-70#'s so I might give some new broadheads a try.


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## CowboyUp (Jun 11, 2009)

Jet08 said:


> Like you said, I wouldnt feel to comfortable shooting mechanicals. But I read about these the other day, maybe worth a shot???
> 
> http://www.ragebroadheads.com/Products40KE.aspx


 
Id be curious to see how these would actually work also, but i dont know if i would be the first to give it a try. I have some rages and love em, but also have some 100g Muzzys that have done me justice as well. I never hear of muzzys not doing the trick, if your going with a fixed blade that is what i would use hands down


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## timberdoodle528 (Nov 25, 2003)

Thanks to everyone for all the information so far. I have a lot to learn! I've been shooting a bow for about 4 years, but feel this is the first year I've become serious or maybe even a little obsessed with shooting and learning as much as I can. 

Here's the stats on the arrows they set me up with:

Gold Tip Expedition Hunter
2 grain
Straightness: .006
3555


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## Jet08 (Aug 21, 2007)

Now you guys got me thinking... Its never good when I start thinking either, nothing good ever turns out.:lol:

A couple questions here. I shoot close to a 500gr arrow, but I only shoot 100gr BH (rage). I have no complaints in arrow flight, until now i have never really thought about it, but I should prolly have a heavier head on there huh??

Second question is, do any of you guys know of any quality heavy arrows. I would like to get over the 12 GPI. I am actually shooting close to IBO and I would like to add more weight. I have always been a diehard gold tip shooter but when I got my new bow with the higher poundage draw, they didn't have any arrows to fit my needs. I currently shoot Easton Axis, which are at 11.5 GPI I beleive.

Maybe I should just stick with the if it aint broke dont fix it.....
but that would be no fun:evil:


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Jet08 said:


> Now you guys got me thinking... Its never good when I start thinking either, nothing good ever turns out.:lol:
> 
> A couple questions here. I shoot close to a 500gr arrow, but I only shoot 100gr BH (rage). I have no complaints in arrow flight, until now i have never really thought about it, but I should prolly have a heavier head on there huh??
> 
> ...


Griz Stiks for quality heavy arrows. As for broadhead grainage, that should be determined by two things and two things only- Dynamic Spine and FOC. If you're getting good flight and good groups, chances are you are well within the optimal ranges of both.


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## deathfromabove (Mar 2, 2005)

I'm surprised we don't have more ST fans here.........mechanicals are fer turkeys (the bird that is:lol......

shot this ole gal a few years back and I missed my mark by about 4 "........I'm so glad I wasn't shooting a mechanical......










the Slick Trick 100 standard blew through both shoulders........the hole looked like a typical 12 gauge slug hole..

4 blade slick tricks leave holes the shape of a box not like typical 3 blades that resemble a triangle...........ST give a much better wound channel IMHO .... .


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## timberdoodle528 (Nov 25, 2003)

I checked out Slick Trick's website, and it shows that my local archery shop carries them. Next time I'm in there, I'm gonna check them out.


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## bigsablemike (Apr 26, 2005)

timberdoodle528 said:


> I checked out Slick Trick's website, and it shows that my local archery shop carries them. Next time I'm in there, I'm gonna check them out.


i cannot put any faith in mechanicles.
i went thru a few broadheads the slick trick 125's are great ,fly true,nothing to go wrong.


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## Joe Archer (Mar 29, 2000)

timberdoodle528 said:


> I checked out Slick Trick's website, and it shows that my local archery shop carries them. Next time I'm in there, I'm gonna check them out.


I have nothing against Slick Tricks, but they are one of the new "aerodynamic" broadhead designs made for faster bows. At Cabela's you will pay $8.33 ea for a Slick Trick. Thunderhead 100's will cost you $6.67 and should fly just fine if your bow is tuned. 
<----<<<


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## Non Typical (Feb 17, 2009)

Meagan, it has been said before the Slick Trick is the best you can buy and is a lot less money than a lot of others. An 85 grain 4 blade 3 pk will run $25.00 or less to your door.
Pat


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## deathfromabove (Mar 2, 2005)

I agree NonT.......

My 10 year old daughter's arrows will be tipped with ST.......


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

I switched from Thunderhead 100's to Slick Trick 100 Magnums about three or four years ago and haven't looked back. I've taken a lot of animals with Thunderheads over the years. One reason that I switched is I was getting tired of bending the ferrules on hard impact shots. A bent ferrule means a broadhead/arrow combination that will not spin true. The Slick Trick is nearly half the length of a Thunderhead so it's easier to spin tune, is all steel and has no rubber o-ring to dry rot and fail. It's like a nail with blades. Plus, being a 4 blade it'll cut that much more tissue and put more blood on the ground.

Last season I took a doe wit a steep quartering away shot at just over 20 yards. The ACC 3-49 with the Slick Trick broke four ribs on the impact side, broke two more on the far side and broke the left shoulder. I even had an exit hole. All this with a 62 pound Hoyt Ultratec. Needless to say I've been completely satisfied with Slick Tricks.

Joe, give 'em a try. You won't be dissappointed.


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## timberdoodle528 (Nov 25, 2003)

Looks like I'll be shooting the 100 grain Razor Trick this fall. I'm hoping the extra 15 grain won't mean I have to buy all new arrows. Does't seem to me that it'd make that much of a difference.


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## bigg_kev (Jun 13, 2005)

The best fixed blade broadheads are Steel Force...they range from 75gr to 125gr. I prefer the Sabertooth broadheads.:evil:


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## fulldraw (Nov 20, 2002)

I have tried slick tricks in the past like the 2 or 3rd year on the market because I saw the devastation that they left behind. Don't get me wrong the leave one heck of a whole and I have the pictures to prove it. But I shot a doe at 12 yrds out of a 60Ib Bowtech and the slick trick did not pass through. Since I like having pass through shots no questions asked I switched back to Magnus heads and I shot a doe last year at 25 yards same bow but set at 55 Ibs a complete pass through shot and the deer ran about 25 yrds. I like the slick tricks they do fly true and like field points but don't expect a pass through shot even at 15 or less yards. This is just my experience with them.


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## Joe Archer (Mar 29, 2000)

Pier Pressure said:


> Joe, give 'em a try. You won't be dissappointed.


I am sure they are a fine broadhead, and would fly just like my field points. My Thunderhead 125's fly just like my field points as well. I purposely shoot a heavier and slower arrow combination to maximize KE. Usually when I shoot at a broad side or quartering animal I get a pass-through and retrieve an arrow that is buried 8 - 12 inches in the ground! I really do not think that broadhead selection is that much of a factor anyway - as long as you can get them to fly consistently straight, and are shooting them out of a well tuned bow. We most likely can put ten different heads into a bag, reach in, pull one out, and use it to hunt and kill deer. That said I think when broadhead meets bone, you will get better penetration with a 1 3/16 3-blade head than a 4-blade 1 1/8 inch cutting diameter. 
In any case, Muzzy, Wasp, Slick Trick, Montec, Thunderhead, Spitfire, Rage, Striker, Grim Reaper... I would bet dollars to doughnuts that I could just as easily kill a deer with either of these as well. 
So Timberdoodle, the bottom line for you in my opinion would be to choose a quality fixed blade, practice with it, tune your bow, and take high percentage shots at broadside or slightly quartering animals, and you will be fine. In the end there are many more factors that dictate the success of a broadhead than the actual broadhead itself. 
Good Luck!
<----<<<


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Well said Joe.


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

I agree. I managed an archery shop in the early to mid '90s and I was always asked the question "What's the best broadhead?" My answer was always the same, "A sharp one!"


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## Sr.Blood (Mar 1, 2008)

bigg_kev said:


> The best fixed blade broadheads are Steel Force...they range from 75gr to 125gr. I prefer the Sabertooth broadheads.:evil:


I shot the big (125grn.) titanium steel force for a while, until it almost cost me a nice 2.5 yo. 8 pnt.
They do not have enough support out near tip and what happens is it will fold over, stopping all penatration.
That buck should have had both lungs blown out and went 60yds, but instead, I got one lung and it went 1/2 mile.
that happened to 2 of the heads, the other one blew through a 3d deer and hit a wheel barrel and did the same thing.
Sent both to the company with extensive info on them and they basically said oh well.
Nobody else has a problem with them !!!

Switched to a differant head before rest of season was over.

My son shot the 85 grn and seemed okay, but it is shorter with more support at tip from the bleeder blades.


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## jsmith2232 (Jan 4, 2006)

I had alot of luck with no failures at lower poundages when I started bowhunting, I shot muzzy 90 gr. 4 blades for years and they always had great penetration, blood trails and short tracking jobs with the right shot placement.


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