# IM6, IM7, or what?



## Prowl (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi, 

I am wondering if anyone can help clear up some confusion I am having with different qualities of fishing poles. I dont understand the differences between IM6 and IM7 or other qualities such as these. I cant seem to find any information about this online anywhere.

I would like a new pole for Walleye fishing and would like to understand this prior to my purchase.

I appreciate any responses.
Thanks,
Prowl


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## float n steel (Dec 14, 2005)

below is a thread in another site that was posted basicly go with what you like and feels good to the hand.............it was not me that wrote it but is informative to pro shop junkies trying to sell you something thats not......


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## Slick fishing (Sep 25, 2002)

I dont know if your looking for a jigging rod for walleye but I just posted these for another member.. Cya Slick

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173284


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## float n steel (Dec 14, 2005)

Good evenin' folks, 

I may be about to open a SERIOUS can of worms with this thread, but what the heck.....here goes anyway. Being in the blank distribution business, I get asked A LOT about the construction and makeup of the various graphite rod blanks that I sell. And, I have to say that whenever somebody asks me about modulus I just cringe! Here is why; It seems that about 90% of the folks that email me want to know what the modulus is of the blank(s) they are considering buying. When I ask "Why do you want to know that" they can't really give me an answer....they're just convinced that higher the IM rating is better. Here is how the conversation usually evolves: 

Mr. Customer: What modulus is that blank made from? 

Andy: Well, if you must know, it's about 40million Msi 

Mr. Customer: What does that mean? 

Andy: Well, it means the blank is made from the material you have come to know and love as IM6 

Mr. Customer: Oh, that's too antiquated...I only fish with IM7 and higher. 

Andy: Really? Did you know that the difference between IM6 and IM7 is not the modulus it's the tensile strength? 

Mr. Customer: Really? 

Andy: Yeah REALLY! 

Mr. Customer: Eh Hhhmmm....erreer, uh, oh....well uh....well Bass Pro Shops says... 

Andy: Forget Bass Pro shops...let's look at the numbers (at this point Andy whips out his trusty data chart that illustrates the differences between the different fibers that actually have IM designations). Here take a look at this. This comes from a chart put together by the folks at Hexcel (http://www.advancedcomposites.com/technology.htm) 
The number on the far right is the modulus of the fiber, and the number in the middle is the elongation to failure or stretch. 

Hexcel IM4 600 40 
Hexcel IM6 760 40 
Hexcel IM7 780 40 
Hexcel IM8 790 44 
Hexcel IM9 920 42 

Mr. Customer: You Mean all this time I thought I was getting a higher modulus fiber with the higher IM rating, when what I was really getting is a fiber that stretches more? 

Andy: Well, in some cases you are, and in some cases you arent. The fact is though that the difference between IM6 and IM7 is nothing in terms of modulus, and compared to IM8 it's only slightly higher. Wow...look at that IM9 actually has a lower modulus than IM8...go figure Now, many companies are using fibers with a much higher modulus, like 57 and even higher, however these fibers don't necessarily use the IM ratings. So, whenever you see a fiber with an IM rating...BUYER BEWARE! THE HIGHER THE IM RATING, DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN THE HIGHER THE MODULUS!!! 

The point is this folks...just because you have a blank made from a high modulus fiber, doesn't means it's a good rod! And vice versa, just because you have a blank with a low modulus...even the original fiber blanks were made with (33 million) doesn't mean it's a bad or outdated rod. It's all about what the designer does with it. 

I know there are some of you that may already know this, but judging from the amount of calls I get on a daily basis from folks who ONLY want IM7 or IM8, but can't really tell you why, I have to believe they don't really know what they are talking about at all. They've just been sucked into the marketing machine that leads people to believe that the higher the IM rating, the lighter and more sensetive the material, which is not always the case. 
Be forewarned that there is A LOT more to graphite blank construction, performance, quality, sensetivity, weight etc... than just what modulus the fiber is. There are lots of other variables like flag patterns, and wall thickness, and resin systems, and mandrel design....It's all about the talent of the designer, and what he is able to do in terms of the sum of those variables...not just the friggin modulus! 

Whewww...ok I feel better now... 

My aforementioned explanation of modulus and IM ratings is by no means meant to be anything more than a brief primer for the folks who didn't realize what the differences with the IM ratings were. I hope this clears things up a bit, and I hope that some of you will chime in on this as well. Oh, here is a link to the Hexcel page for those of you who want to investigate the matter further. Do a search for IM6 and you'll get some interesting info. (if you're into that kind of techie junk). 

[www.hexcel.com] 

[www.advancedcomposites.com] 

Now, this gives you some ammunition...next time you stroll into BassPro, and some yahoo tries to sell you a rod based on it's IM rating, ask him to explain to you why the higher IM ratings are better. When he replies by sayin' that the higher the IM rating means more sensetivity, less weight etc....just tell him that you have a blank at home made from IM2000, and see what he says. 

Regards, 

Andy Dear 
Lamar Manf.


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## BroncoSportsman (Sep 13, 2004)

IM7 will be a higher modulus(sp?) graphite that the IM6. The IM7 will be a faster action the the 6, meaning it will flex in the upper 1/3 of the blank vs. probably the upper half on a 6. It depends on what you want to use it for. For jigging, drop shotting, throwing jigs and plastics, a faster action is always better. But when using crankbaits I always like a little slower action. Hope this helps you out.


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## float n steel (Dec 14, 2005)

your wrong bronco its the elongation to failure to stretch... this is why we got into this last year marketing ploys have evryone confused.........


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## Slick fishing (Sep 25, 2002)

great post!!!!!!


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## Bassman Dan (May 26, 2006)

BroncoSportsman said:


> IM7 will be a higher modulus(sp?) graphite that the IM6. The IM7 will be a faster action the the 6, meaning it will flex in the upper 1/3 of the blank vs. probably the upper half on a 6. It depends on what you want to use it for. For jigging, drop shotting, throwing jigs and plastics, a faster action is always better. But when using crankbaits I always like a little slower action. Hope this helps you out.


That's what I came to believe. If you are looking at two of the same brand/type rods and the only difference is one is IM6 and one is IM7, I think you would be safe to believe the above. IM6 for cranking and IM7 for soft plastics and jiggin etc. IM7 should be more sensitive and lighter, or so they say. Since most of us aren't modulus fiber experts, thats all we can go by. Good luck on selecting your next rod.


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## Prowl (Jan 17, 2006)

Interesting posts. I definitely learned some details about pole construction. THanks for all the posts ... I appreciate the help on this site.


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## Westlakedrive (Feb 25, 2005)

Save your money on the IM7 and go with the IM6.


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## waterfoul (May 18, 2005)

I have two Gander rods... both the same length and action (MH). One is IM6 and the other IM7. The IM 7 is lighter and more sensitive than the IM6. I fish them side by side evey time I go fishing...


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## sfw1960 (Apr 7, 2002)

I just picked up a Berkley Bionix IM7 Baitcaster on 'clearance' for $30 and I think it's SWEET.
As far as what I've seen the IM7 is generally stiffer or more stiffness to mass ratio.... not that I know a ton of different rods... I do know the $130 Crucial IM8 rods feel like "wands"....LOL!
I will probably get a Gander IM8 rod in the spring and I'm thinkin' about a Cabela's IM7 stEEk shortly.... UNLESS the sport show has something I can't pass up.

P.S. - if you bang your gear around a bit buy the CHEAPER stuff - the higher modulus blanks "bruise" easier and fracture when you need it least!


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## glongworth3232 (Oct 18, 2006)

I just got the new for 07 Pfluger Supreme 8035Mg spinning reel and was debating on a rod.You guys tought me a lot thanks for the tips.Not only for me but all of us.Great thread by the way.


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## walleyeman2006 (Sep 12, 2006)

depends if your casting or vertical jigging or want one rod to do both...casting less feel is fine but vertical jigging you need a very sencitive tip ....what ever you decide if you catch fish with it go buy 2 more thats the biggest tip i can give you because these days everything goes out of production so fast or companies change hands when you find one you like and something happens to it your safe,,i wont buy just one any more


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