# new roof for old house



## kumma (Jul 12, 2002)

I was up doing some work on the home this weekend, im guessing the house is 80-90 years old. Its in need of a new roof, as the old roll asphalt is tearing and curling. As much as I can see it looks like the roof base is 1 x 12 pine boards (with approx 1/4 to 3/8 gap between boards) with a layer of wood shingles and then 2 layers of roll asphalt. Hoping for the best that the base layer is fine, which it looks form the attic. Im planning on tearing off everything but the 1" boards, put 1/2 osb on top of that and then shingle? Anything wrong with plywood on top of old pine boards?


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## Backwoods-Savage (Aug 28, 2005)

No. Also, you might consider steel roofing and then you'll never have to replace it again.


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## FishTales (Feb 13, 2002)

Leave all the old boards in place, it will hold your roof rafters and you won't have a problem installing the plywood.
I had a new roof put on a house I had in Royal Oak and thats the way they did it.
Rich


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## kumma (Jul 12, 2002)

I thought about steel but I just dont like the look. 

heres a shot of the house, only thing that has me worried is the steep pitch but that has helped it survive this long. This is the only area that has had some ice buildup so I have done some insulation work there. This was taken last october, two days earlier I was sweating dragging a stand into the woods in 70 degree weather.  then this.


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## walleyeman2006 (Sep 12, 2006)

you can get steel that looks identical to convetional shingles .....

decra is one brand name


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Keep weight in mind. If your going to put OSB over the 1" roof boards I'd think about 7/16" and possibly doing some sistering of the roof joists. Good ventilation up from the soffets and along the ridge with properly installed insulation will keep that ice from forming. Layer of that sticky ice sheild stuff around the base of the roof is a good idea as well.


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## UNREEL (Jun 8, 2007)

Right on. 7/16 osb over the old pine, I would cut in a few vents for extra ventilation, about a foot or so below the peak. Ice&water shield along the eaves and 15# felt the rest. I use Timberline Dimensional shingles exclusively, for the money you cant get a better shingle.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Remember one thing....

When you *INSULATE*, you must *VENTILATE*!!!

Whenever you addinsulation you should make sure that you have enough ventilation. You want your attic to be cold. This will help eliminate ice dams. And as far as the ice-shield. It's not only a good idea it's required. It should extend two feet past the "heat wall". Because you basically don't have any overhang one row should be enough. But if it were mine I'd do two rows just to be safe. 

I agree with the Timberline dimensional shingles also. That's what I've got on my current house and I had them on my last house. It's the only shingle that I'd use.

Take care

John


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## hoyt8 (Dec 18, 2006)

jpollman
[I agree with the Timberline dimensional shingles also. That's what I've got on my current house and I had them on my last house. It's the only shingle that I'd use.[/quote]

I was looking into new shingles and have looked at and liked the Timberline dimensional shingles. I was just curious why you thought they were better than the others.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Well they were on my last house when I bought it. The house was a spec home and was almost complete when we bought it. I talked to the builder and we came to an agreement on a good price because he allowed me to do some of the finishing work before we closed. He said that he'd been using them and really liked the way they looked and performed. We were in that house for four years until we bought the house we're in now. About four years after we moved in here we needed a new roof and I decided to go with the same shingle here too. I just really like the way they look and also I prefer the dimensional shingles to the standard three-tab. The dimensionals are two layers thick so I feel that they will hold up better in addition to the better looks over three-tab. Also, ESOX sells shingles for a living and he recommended them too. He knows his roofing and I trust his recommendation.

Take care

John


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## UNREEL (Jun 8, 2007)

Timberlines are a durable, multi layered shingle and come with a 30 year manufacturer warranty. They are easier than most to cut. And at an average price of around $15.50 a bundle, they are one of the cheapest dimensional on the market. I think IKO shingles are the only ones cheaper, but much less in quality. That roof doesnt look very big, so saving a buck a bundle wont do much for you. Remember, you only want to do this once, do it right and dont skimp on quality. I have yet to have a callback from a defective Timberline, and thats a lot of roofs...


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## kumma (Jul 12, 2002)

Ill be living in the house within the next 5 years so I wont be skimping on quality. I used Timberline shingles from HD for my garage and was pleased with them. Looks like I can get Timberline shingles at 41 lumber and they deliver as well but probably not roof top. :sad: Ill be redoing the sofits and trim as well so ventilation wont be a problem. 

Anyone want to guess on size of roof for me, Length of house is 24 and width of house is 20 with 1 foot overhang on all sides or roof. Im guessing 8 square.


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## UNREEL (Jun 8, 2007)

Without knowing the pitch, I figured to a 12/12 your at 7 square, but always get an extra square. Whats neat about Timberlines is you can use the Royal Sovereign 3 tab for cap, just match color. 1 bundle will do it, but get 2 to be safe.


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