# Well Problems



## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

I recently replaced my pressure tank on my well and last nite is was short cycling again. It has pressure so the tank is OK. It fills but quickly empties, then fills then empties.. Could this be the pressure switch? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## spoikey (Jan 18, 2005)

Sounds like you need a new check valve if the water is emptying immediatly after the pump shuts off.


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## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

spoikey said:


> Sounds like you need a new check valve if the water is emptying immediatly after the pump shuts off.


What is a check valve and can I fix this?


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

Christian said:


> What is a check valve and can I fix this?


I'm not trying to sound mean but......if you have to ask what a check valve is, you should probably leave it for someone else to fix.


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## spoikey (Jan 18, 2005)

The pump will fill the tank, when the pump shuts off a valve in the line will close to prevent the water from going back down the well. If the system has been there a while the check valve will go bad, You may try to tap it a few times with something heavy if it is stuck. you do this right after the pump shuts off. If that doesn't work its best to replace it. You'll see a 3 or six inch brass fitting in the line between the pump and well. that is your check valve. Not hard to replace but you have to re prime your pump after wards.


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## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

ih772 said:


> I'm not trying to sound mean but......if you have to ask what a check valve is, you should probably leave it for someone else to fix.


I did not know if it was in the actual well or at the pressure tank. I was an apprentice for over 2 years until things went to hell, but never dealt with these things, I was strictly new construction on assisted living centers. I am more than capable just need some guidance.


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## spoikey (Jan 18, 2005)

ih772 said:


> I'm not trying to sound mean but......if you have to ask what a check valve is, you should probably leave it for someone else to fix.


 At one time I didn't know what one was either. Given the opportunity anyone can learn things they need to. I learned because I just couldn't afford the price of a professional. You should never dis someone for lack of knowledge if they are willing to ask.


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## spoikey (Jan 18, 2005)

Christian said:


> I did not know if it was in the actual well or at the pressure tank. I was an apprentice for over 2 years until things went to hell, but never dealt with these things, I was strictly new construction on assisted living centers. I am more than capable just need some guidance.


 The check valve is in the line usually just behind the pump.


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## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

Thanks everyone, i will give it a try shortly!!! I have used this forum for help many times and has always been great.


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## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

Here's the latest: Just got home and turned breaker back on, everything is working fine. Took everything apart anyways and noticed there is no check valve in the house. Any ideas????? When it was on the tank filled properly and shut off until 28PSI and then kicked on until 65PSI then shut down, like it usually does.


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## spoikey (Jan 18, 2005)

Check valve is an inline fitting, almost like the pipe only brass. T have a shallow well pump. It might be different than a deep well but I'm sure it has a check valve somewhere. Glad everything is working fine. It could have had some debris and caused it ti stick open.


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## 2ESRGR8 (Dec 16, 2004)

65psi sounds high, most pressure switches operate from 20 to 40 or 30 to 50psi. 
I have been told that the pressure in your tank should be 2 psi lower than your kick on pressure in this case with the pump off and the tank drained close all the valves and put 26psi of air into your tank. 
Certainly someone will correct me if I am wrong but this is how I setup my pump/tank systems.


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## PLUMMER47 (Dec 9, 2006)

First off, what kind of pump do you have?? Your only gonna have a check if the pump is visible such as a shallow or jet pump with 2 lines. Your not gonna see a check with a deep well pump. Did you set the pressure tank up correctly. PSI should've been 2 psi lower than turn on and that has to be measured with no water or pressure in the tank. Water hammer is what causes the pressure switch to flicker. The pressure tank should be as close as possible to the pressure switch. The other possibility is a break in the line between the well casing and house. VERY common and its usuallly the fitting at the well casing.


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## Christian (Feb 23, 2004)

PLUMMER47 said:


> First off, what kind of pump do you have?? Your only gonna have a check if the pump is visible such as a shallow or jet pump with 2 lines. Your not gonna see a check with a deep well pump. Did you set the pressure tank up correctly. PSI should've been 2 psi lower than turn on and that has to be measured with no water or pressure in the tank. Water hammer is what causes the pressure switch to flicker. The pressure tank should be as close as possible to the pressure switch. The other possibility is a break in the line between the well casing and house. VERY common and its usuallly the fitting at the well casing.


The tank is setup properly, very close to pressure switch. Not sure how deep the well is. I took everything aprt inside, checked the tank, pressure switch and put back together and all is working fine, now. I am not confident that it will not happen again though. When you say well casing do you mean the metal 4 inch pipe with the cap outside? How would I tell if this is broken? wouldn't there be standing water somewere?

Thanks


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## Big Reds (Oct 14, 2007)

The brass check valve is down the well casing just above the pump. You will have to pull the well if it is the check valve. The pump will run a lot if the check valve is not closing. Normally, you will notice a steady decrease in pressure and flow if there is a hole between the well and house. IF you have a hole the line the pump will run quite often depending on the size of the hole.


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## PLUMMER47 (Dec 9, 2006)

Yes the casing is the 5" pipe outside. About 5-6' down below freeze line the poly line exits the casing and makes its way to the house. The nice brilliant cheap well guys use galvanized fittings and far too often they rust thru at the threads where the adapter threads into the casing. Poly to thread adapter. Usually it will be wet right at the casing but it is deep and can take some time to flood the area depending on soil drainage conditions. I've seen some with a 10' circle of quick sand/mud and others spring right out of the ground without much mess. Also have seen them leak slowly for a very long time with no problems till the entire fitting comes off. Some wells are very quite and difficult to hear. Sometimes just a slight hmmmm. Your best bet is to get a well guy out to give you an estimate. He should have a quick diagnosis IF your still having problems.


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## huntingfool43 (Mar 16, 2002)

If it's a deep well it sounds like the foot(check)valve may have gotten some dirt in it and didn't close all the way. And you said it is working normal now so it most likely flushed the dirt out. I would have a well guy pull the well and check it because if it goes you will have no water.


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