# Keep losing "that" fish on the texas rig... help??



## waterfoul (May 18, 2005)

Monday on Fremont Lake I lost 4 good fish that would definitely have helped our bag... which is not like me. 3 of those fish hit my sweet beaver in the initial fall. Cast, let it fall, pick it up and THUMP! the fish already had it. Missed all 3 of them. Had one on for a couple seconds and it had "shoulders" for sure. I've experienced this quite often this year... missing that initial fall fish.

Anyone got a suggestion on catching "that" fish? The one that grabs your bait on the fall that you just don't feel until it's too late? I fish a good, sensitive rod (Dobyns Champion series), Power Pro braid, P-line florocarbon leader. Been using a 4/0 Trokar flippin hook (the beaver fits on it perfect), so you know the hook is sharp! Tried an EWG hook... hook up ratio seems higher on the flipping hook. Tried a 3/0 Gammy flippin hook... same results as the 4/0.

Short of setting the hook on the initial "pick up" on each cast, anyone got a suggestion? I've tried to "feel" for the fish by just barely moving the bait... most times I don't get that fish hooked up and it's getting very frustrating!!!


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## Zib (Jan 7, 2008)

When the fish bite a bait on the fall & slack line you need to watch the line for it to jump or look for a little tick. Reel up the slack as fast as you can & set the hook.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

Have to watch that line like a hawk for the slightest movement as the bait sinks. Harder to do as we age. I find fish will often hold on just a tad longer of you don't peg the sinker.


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## ManxFishing (Apr 7, 2008)

Well,

Are you skin hooking the beavers?
It's big hook the hook ups should be great

You might try bending the hook out a little


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## waterfoul (May 18, 2005)

ManxFishing said:


> Well,
> 
> Are you skin hooking the beavers?
> It's big hook the hook ups should be great
> ...


That Trokar is a straight shank hook... and the gap between the point and the shank is probably an inch. No need to bend that! Can't really skin hook it either with this hook... but I always have the hook just barely concealed by the plastic.

As for line watching.... that would have been impossible yesterday as it was downright blustery all day. Come to think of it... looking back most of those missed fish have come on fairly windy days. I am a consumate line watcher... I even use the yellow braid on my t-rig rod because as you said... the slightest tick and I'm lettin em have it! But when it's windy that can be very tough to do. I've even taken to leaving my finder on the line about half way between the reel and the first guide as it falls trying to feel for that bite.

Thanks for the suggestions!!!


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## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

Switch baits. If they are biting in the way down switch to a senko with a shaky head hooked in the middle. Rock sold hook sets every time. Or even better an octopus hook. 

The longer I fished the more I fished small circle and octopus hooks whenever possible.


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## bassdisaster (Jun 21, 2007)

Mike ive had this very same issue all season, Paul and I coulda woulda won the SPI at Muskegon if I could just get a Hook into em!
I use yellow 40lb powerpro uni-uni 20lb 100% flouro carbon leader, 3-4/0 Gamakatsu EWG and Id say the hook ratio is only about 40%, damn frustrating when that 5er hits on the drop and you cant put him in the boat I agree!
Ive considered running the NEW superline hooks, maybe the thin wire hooks are simply flexing a tad too much?

BD


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## ezyeric (Jul 14, 2004)

I'm curious as to what you think is actually happening here. Skin hooking the fish instead of completely penetrating through? Whats the situation with the package when the beaver gets back to the boat after these incidents.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

I like the idea of moving the hook back a bit, threading the line through the nose a little way. Seems logical a fish would grab a worm near the center. Maybe have the point laying on top, not in the plastic at all, too. That helped me a lot with hookups in Lake St. Clair, which is weed central, too.


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## sfw1960 (Apr 7, 2002)

You're beginning to understand my fondness for a M-H (or even a heavy action) rod Mike! 
Rip a page out of Ammerman's book, go ahead - a double dog dare ya!

I feel _anything_ and a wrist flick completes the math (for me anyhow), this includes sudden weight on the pick up - I just keep pulling towards me.
Can you tear their mouth near the lip plate, yes (that can happen anytime) - can you hook their inner mouth DEEP and plant them where you want them...YES , YES , YES.
Both you & I know a 4" bait is ALL the way in the pie-hole when they inhale it; hell ask Brandon - a few weeks ago I "fed line" to a 3-3.5 lb fish with a 12" worm with a 5/0 Ultra Point and she _frEEk!N'_ SWALLOWED it!
:yikes:
One thing I can recommend trying (I'm sure you have a plenty long 'nuff F/C leader so the "spooking color (LOL)" isn't a factor) is some 0' this stuff:

*SufiX Fuse Neon Fire*

I don't care how windy it is - you can see the *twitch* with ease.
I am using the 8LB on a 6'6" MH Compre` and it works well with plastisol. 
I _will_ tell you that P-Pro will last longer, but I can turn it around after a season if I want (very much line Fire Line).
I am going to pickup some 14Lb too.
Send me a PM and I'll give you a link to some fairly cheap if you're open to try it.(P.S. is has supposedly been proven that a smaller diameter line gives better feel and more hook set force due to the concentrated energy in a smaller area, FWeverIW.)


Not that I'd expect to give Mike a useful tip er anything.....
AH'm jus' sayin' ......:evilsmile
RAS


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

sfw1960 said:


> You're beginning to understand my fondness for a M-H (or even a heavy action) rod Mike!


Without a doubt, you need to use a rod with some serious bootie action. I fish Texas Rigs on an old Loomis GL3 7'6" telescoping light flipping rod. It's only rated to 3/4oz, but this little flipper has some serious power and stiffness. And the stiffness combined with braid lend itself to sensitivity. I can feel the fishes eyelashes flicker as the look at my bait.


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## bassdisaster (Jun 21, 2007)

Myself I have been using a 7' MH Fast action rod, Im thinking of changing to a Heavy action maybe 7'2" with a moderate fast action, more power plus a little tip softness to keep from ripping the bait clean out! 
As for Leader Im running mine in the 8-12 ft length, ya you hear the Uni knot ticking its way thru the eyes but I believe the added length helps for knot strength as Flouro has little stretch so the added length may lend to saving the knot as a shock leader. 
Other then that im considering changing back to str8 Mono or Flouro in 30-40lb! 
And the superline strength hooks for now on too! Its just they are heavier so it will increase drop speed!

BD


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## sfw1960 (Apr 7, 2002)

As a good fishin' buddy once told me:
These bigger fish have a lot bonier mouth, so "a _fairly _stiff rod is important to be able to _really _put the ass to 'em!"

:lol:

I think I _actually LIKE_ having to get pliers out to remove the hook(s).

:evilsmile

The only complaint I can see against the full H action Carl, is I have popped 20lb F/C on the hook set....










That makes me very, very angry....
:lol:

RAS


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## Ranger Ray (Mar 2, 2003)

waterfoul said:


> Short of setting the hook on the initial "pick up" on each cast,


Do it!


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

sfw1960 said:


> .... has supposedly been proven that a smaller diameter line gives better feel and more hook set force due to the concentrated energy in a smaller area, FWeverIW.) ...
> RAS


I would think mainly due to less water drag than a larger diameter line, Provided the line has almost no stretch, the thinner the better, provided you don't _break_ it. :lol:

Also, mashing down the barb might help get easier hook sets, as well as releases, if it stays on the worm in place well enough. Just need to play the fish a bit more _artlessly_ to keep contact.


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## waterfoul (May 18, 2005)

Well, I'm running a 7' Heavy action Dobyns Champion Series rod with 15 lb Suffix 832 braid and a 8' or so P-line 12 lb floro leader. If a fish lets me move the bait a few feet after the cast and THEN hits it... he's mine nearly every time. I try to skin hook the bait as best I can- since I'm using a straight shank Trokar flippin hook it's a bit hard on a shorter bait... like the beaver. I will try moving the hook back to the very end of the bait though...

Ah heck with it... I'm just gonna drop shot all day.


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## thedude (Jul 20, 2004)

try a gami ewg hook instead of those garbage trokars. the hook point is probably rolled off. Remember, EAGLE CLAW makes trokars - i don't care what the price tag on them is, they are still manufactured by the company that makes the shabbiest hooks in the business.

that said, use a jig instead and avoid the problem all together.


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## Bulletproof (Jul 26, 2005)

First off, lose the hooks. Get a Gami EWG 4/0 and don't look back, just my preference..... Other than that, do you have to treat these bites like "jig" bites? If you're using a sweet beaver, my guess would be those baits should keep the fish holding on long enough to get down on your line and really get the butt of the rod into em'...... Weird deal....

Are you using a sliding weight?

Changing the hook placement on your bait wasn't a bad thought either...


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## blutoe (Dec 6, 2008)

get rid of the braid!


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## sfw1960 (Apr 7, 2002)

blutoe said:


> get rid of the braid!


You have *GOT TO BE* S$!~++!*G me!!

:lol:

Hear that Mike??
When hell freezes over maybe!
Either you get it, or you don't.


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## flockshot (Feb 23, 2007)

Best advice on here has been the crush the barb comment..if ur not getting good penetration at all...remember on a 4/0 hook ..that's a lot of steel to push thru a lot of lip or mouth..if u keep the line tight on a wide gap worm hook and on a hook that big u won't loose fish. Not an expert at all..but I started pinching barbs on my steelhead rigs (not for conservation as I will keep some) and my landing rate has about doubled...just a thought.


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## bassscout13 (Jun 12, 2011)

Ok--I assume you are flipping. I flip on average 6 months out of the year on Kentucky Lake--full of buck brush--think I have a little experience there.

Get rid of the straight shank hook--its killing ya--go with a worm wide gap hook--gama makes a great one for this--rig it texas style-but run the hook all the way thru then skin hook it--you will find that if a fish slams the bait they will almost always hook themselves.

I fish this way with a allpro 8ft heavy action flipping stick-25 to 30lbs big game line--i never use braid--lost to many fish on it. If I'm fishing anything other than a tube, the sinker is always pegged. 

Good luck and tight lines


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## bassdisaster (Jun 21, 2007)

sfw1960 said:


> You have *GOT TO BE* S$!~++!*G me!!
> 
> :lol:
> 
> ...


Robert on 1 hand I agree, but on the other not so much!
I have been using braid and having the same trouble, seems like the low to no stretch braid line would drive that hook home, but it has proven to be not so!
My plan was to return to straight heavy flouro 30lb on my beaver rig and I have went to a 7'2" Heavy action rod, 
1st time using it i was sold, only had 4 bites on beaver that day but nailed em all, not only that but I could feel everything, grass, stumps, rocks it was all transmitted to my hand!
Personally Ive liked braid it has its uses, but it is HIGHLY over rated!
Nothing fits every situation and braid is no exception to that!
Oh and no more failed Uni-Uni knot's! That alone will put more fish in the boat!

BD


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## waterfoul (May 18, 2005)

Some of you seem to be missing the point. The only issue I have on my t-rig is that initial, it fell into the fishes mouth bite. If I'm dragging or hopping it on the bottom I'll get that fish, a lot more often than not. I don't have a "rock the boat" type of hookset like some people do. I just have a good, solid style that I do not believe is ripping the hook thru the fishes mouth.

My other issue with floro line is twist and loop issues on the spool. I HATE spooling a spinning reel with straight floro line no matter what pound it is. It doesn't cast as far or as accurate, and I don't have issues with my uni-to-uni knots... never have. I honestly can't think of the last time I had one fail on a hookset or fighting a fish. Yes, I fish beaver style baits on a spinning rod... mostly due to the stoke and arthritis issues I have with my left hand... making a bait casting rod difficult to fish with for more than a short time.

So for now I'll stick with my 10 lb braid and 6 feet of 8 or 10 lb floro leader. I have been experimenting lately with different style hooks though... but the jury is still out on which one I have been having better luck with.


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## sfw1960 (Apr 7, 2002)

bassdisaster said:


> Robert on 1 hand I agree, but on the other not so much!
> I have been using braid and having the same trouble, seems like the low to no stretch braid line would drive that hook home, but it has proven to be not so!
> My plan was to return to straight heavy flouro 30lb on my beaver rig and I have went to a 7'2" Heavy action rod,
> 1st time using it i was sold, only had 4 bites on beaver that day but nailed em all, not only that but I could feel everything, grass, stumps, rocks it was all transmitted to my hand!
> ...


All I can say is an extra fast action might help you in that case Carl.
Mike & I see eye to eye on braid, I don't think it's over rated - and I know if you don't have some cushion in your whole setup - you'll lose fish.
Actually a few years ago, Mike didn't have a problem with the weight of his gear, and granted I have a couple of years on the lad - he has come to appreciate a rig that weighs 3/4 of a lb.; but still has the balls to snake a good'N out of some nasty thick stuff.
:lol:

For some guys, Glass is their rod of choice, but not me...
Mono for some, not me.....


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## kristo27 (Mar 25, 2009)

Trokar riggin hooks an ur problem will be solved 

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