# My first try at spearing decoy carving/ pics



## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

After years of using store bought decoys, and reading about decoy carving, I finally decided to try my hand at it. These are my first two carvings, I'm not finished as you can see. I still have to do a little sanding to get rid of some residual glue, add the lead weight, and then give them a paint job. One is a bluegill, and one is a perch. The perch is about 8" long and the gill is about 4". Lets see if the northerns like these better then my store bought jobs. Hopefully they swim right  Both are made from red cedar, and the fins are made of aluminun ductwork.


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## rayman92 (Nov 18, 2008)

nice job!


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## chuckwagon157 (May 17, 2008)

rock on!!


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## Downsea (Apr 12, 2005)

Great job! Post pics after the paint jobs too!


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## michiganmaniac (Dec 9, 2008)

nice! how long did they take you?


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## outfishin_ (Jul 28, 2004)

Good job.They look great....I carve decoys sometimes, mine I just do for looks though. How did you attach the metal fin's, if I might ask?


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## multibeard (Mar 3, 2002)

They look real good to me.


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## StumpJumper (Nov 13, 2001)

I want to see them painted


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Thanks guys, definately a work in progress. The fins were attached with 5 minute epoxy, the grooves were cut with my dremmel then I dabbed the fins in five minute epoxy and stuck them in. They've held good thus far. Tonight I realized I shouldn't have tapered the tail to thin. I tried bending the metal tail fin and could tell it'll break the wood without much force. It didn't snap, but I know it wouldn't take much. Just an FYI for others looking to try this. I poured the lead in tonight and sealed the lead slots with bondo. I was surprised how little lead it takes to get them to lose bouyancy. The perch sinks a little faster then the bluegill, but both move forward when they sink. So I did something right. Somehow.  I'll probably try my hand at airbrushing them sometime this week. As you can see from the pictures, I included dorsal fins. This will make installing an metal eye screw from which I can attach the decoy tricky. My one idea was to cut out a section of the fin where the eye screw will be and tap it in, or just drill a hole perpendicular through the dorsal fin, and just hook to that? Any thoughts? As far as time, I've got probably two to three hours into these two decoys in total, just putzing a little here, and a little there.


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## multibeard (Mar 3, 2002)

Just wondering as I haven't speared in years. 

Isn't getting the balance on the line going to be pretty important to how the decoy works in the water? 

I think I would seal the wood and do the experimenting with that part before doing the paint job.


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## UNCLE AL (Jan 5, 2002)

chuckinduck said:


> Thanks guys, definately a work in progress. The fins were attached with 5 minute epoxy, the grooves were cut with my dremmel then I dabbed the fins in five minute epoxy and stuck them in. They've held good thus far. Tonight I realized I shouldn't have tapered the tail to thin. I tried bending the metal tail fin and could tell it'll break the wood without much force. It didn't snap, but I know it wouldn't take much. Just an FYI for others looking to try this. I poured the lead in tonight and sealed the lead slots with bondo. I was surprised how little lead it takes to get them to lose bouyancy. The perch sinks a little faster then the bluegill, but both move forward when they sink. So I did something right. Somehow.  I'll probably try my hand at airbrushing them sometime this week. As you can see from the pictures, I included dorsal fins. This will make installing an metal eye screw from which I can attach the decoy tricky. My one idea was to cut out a section of the fin where the eye screw will be and tap it in, or just drill a hole perpendicular through the dorsal fin, and just hook to that? Any thoughts? As far as time, I've got probably two to three hours into these two decoys in total, just putzing a little here, and a little there.


get some push pins, and stick them into the decoy somewhere near the front fin, and tie a loop in some string, put it around the push pin and put it into a fish tank if you have one, and see how it swims. It should go forward as it's sinking, if it goes straight down, you need to move the pin and try again. When you find the right spot for the string take out the push pin and put in a small screw eye for a line attachment for when you're spearingl.


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## Scott117102 (Jan 27, 2005)

great work hopfully you will enjoy the fish from your labor :lol:


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## Mitchell Ulrich (Sep 10, 2007)

...if you need glass eyes for your next project let know what specie and I can hook you up.

Mitch


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## MrFysch (Feb 9, 2008)

I use to spear all winter when i was a kid up near Sebawing . Dad always carved his decoys and he had the tail bent so when ya lifted and dropped it swam in a semicircle. He always painted his red and white and speared hundreds of pike over them. Always got a kick out of those pike coming in lookin over that decoy!


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## WALLEYEvision (Dec 5, 2003)

Nice job chuck, looking forward to seeing some pics after the paint dries!


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## Priority1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Ryan, They look good. Even if they don't swim perfectly, a crippled fish will get quick attention form the predators.


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## Mule Skinner (Jan 30, 2003)

Looks good !


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## UltimateOutdoorsman (Sep 13, 2001)

Lookin good. I cant wait to see the finished product!


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## soggybtmboys (Feb 24, 2007)

Great job, so far they look great. Can't wait to see the finished products.


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## Groundsize (Aug 29, 2006)

Best decoy I found as I also have carved my own is I use the big muskie daredevil spoons! Just make sure you leave the little swivel on the bottom as it makes noise in the water.

Paul


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Uncle Al, your idea worked great. Tested it out lastnight in the bath tub amongst a bunch of weird looks from the wife. I'll post results once I paint them, which I'm going to do tonight. Never airbrushed before, so don't get your hopes up on award winning work.  Thanks for all the input thus far.


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## UNCLE AL (Jan 5, 2002)

I'm no expert painter by any means, but I have airbrushed some. Stay far enough away from your decoy so as not to create runs. I only run my compressor about 20lbs. Use an undercoat wheather it's primer or something else. The top coat should be waterproof if you're not using a clear finish. I've used exterior house paint without a clear coat and had good results. Hang your decoy from the screw eye when you paint. Good Luck, and welcome to the addiction.


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## Mitchell Ulrich (Sep 10, 2007)

Mckenzie has specie specific stencils for fish...I'm not sure if perch and bluegill are on the list. Wouldn't hurt to check. If not PM me and I can help with the color schedule.

Mitch


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## Mitchell Ulrich (Sep 10, 2007)

This book has most of the paint schedules for commonly mounted fish. 

Mitch


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## grayfox (Jan 19, 2003)

I have taught some decoy carving seminars.....your fish are a great start....I always tell my carvers if they swim and attract fish you've got a decoy....there's no right or wrong way as long as they preform. I'll look forward to seeing the painted porduct....carve on!!!


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## MPD068 (Dec 31, 2005)

I have been carving decoys for about 5 years now and usually make 3-4 a year. I usually make small incisions on the sides of the decoy with my knife and then slide the fins (Made out of old metal siding) in with a dab of epoxy, similiar to what you did on your tale. I also make sure the front fins are a little lower that the back. I got most of my instructions on the MI Darkhouse association wedsite. Red/White been the best color combo for me, but the sky is the limit on colors. It's pretty satisfying whacking one on a decoy you carved from scratch. Mine won't win any awards, but in my experience it doesn't have to be pretty to attract a pike, I have even use a colored golf ball spinning on a line to attract pike:lol:
Good job and have fun


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## Sailor (Jan 2, 2002)

They look good Chuck. Couple of hints : instead of screw eyes... use long cotter pins (Drill holes from the top into the void you're going to pour the lead in, push the pins down the holes and then bend the pins and then "lead them in"). also "lead in the fins and pin the tail and epoxy it. Now your decoy will stay together when a big fish chomps on it.


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

Sailor said:


> They look good Chuck. Couple of hints : instead of screw eyes... use long cotter pins (Drill holes from the top into the void you're going to pour the lead in, push the pins down the holes and then bend the pins and then "lead them in"). also "lead in the fins and pin the tail and epoxy it. Now your decoy will stay together when a big fish chomps on it.


Thanks for the tip, unfortunately, I'm in the final stages of these models, but I'll remember that next time. For all those waiting to see pics of the finished product, well lets just say the airbrushing is a little harder then I thought. So I'm hand painting them tomorrow.


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## minute man (Feb 8, 2009)

great job!!!! do you have any carving experience or was this the first try? did you use a dremel tool or strictly knifes? great job again and what do you think about a deer decoy:lol::lol::lol:


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## chuckinduck (May 28, 2003)

minute man said:


> great job!!!! do you have any carving experience or was this the first try? did you use a dremel tool or strictly knifes? great job again and what do you think about a deer decoy:lol::lol::lol:


I did a lot with knives, but I don't have actual carving knifes, so the detailed work around the gills, mouth, I zipped with a dremel, for fear I'd cut myself. Those decoys are also made out of red cedar, I'd like to see if bass wood might be a little softer, and easier to work with. I've caught the bug though.


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