# Any pick up camper experts here?



## captain jay

I am looking at a pick up camper. It is made for an 8' bed. My truck has a 6' bed. I have talked to a few guys that said it is not a problem. I can still haul it with my tail gate down.

Anyone here have a "professional" opinion on this? If I can haul it legally and safely, I plan on buying it.

Thanks for any help,

Captain Jay


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## Shoeman

I just put an 865 on a shortbed this past fall. I was assured by the dealer that it's safe. I remove the tailgate. Seems there's a slight upward angle on the tailgate and I figured that would stress the cables, not to mention the rocks that may get thrown at it from the rear tires. The dealer said it won't compromise the camper

Here's mine










Just watch your turns :lol: The center of gravity is 34" above the bed

I used the Happyjack system. It has some kind of rubber buffer in the tie-downs to absorb movement


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## Big Reds

I am certainly no "expert" but it makes sense that a camper made for a 8' box is made for a 8' box. It all has to do with weight distribution. 
I had come across this same situation many times. My solution was to purchase a 8' box and frame from a bone yard. I made a trailer out of it and loaded the camper into it ...... permanently. 
This made hook up and take off that much simpler! Not to mention, you can unhook, lock, take off and drive around in just your truck. I was fortunate enough to match (year and color) the "trailer box" to the truck.


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## POLARBEAR

Cap Jay,

check out http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm

They have a dedicated forum for truck campers with a ton of info.... actually they have forums for all rv's and the site is loaded with great info. Also check out the camper mods section. it is a sticky.

Here is ours. sunlite 850wt hideaway



















So here is what you cannot see in truck campers. They ALL leak.. :SHOCKED:


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## POLARBEAR

Alot of work.


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## POLARBEAR

Yeah sure, a 6' bed will haul a 8' truck camper. lol... but the real questions are hidden. lol

I have the tork lift system for my truck. although I still use chains and turn buckles. We will probably end up with tork lift fast guns.

http://www.torklift.com/p.php?w_page=tie_downs

http://www.torklift.com/p.php?w_page=original_fastguns

Depending on your truck and camper models, you may end up needing air bags, helper springs etc. Loading and driving it will tell. 

Hey shoeman, Nice rig. What year is your sunlite? ours is a 850wt 1997 model. The rain came in between the roof and aluminum along the front above the marker lights. From what I understand that is a regular spot that the seam/caulk comes apart. 

I redid all the seams with butyl tape and rv caulk. No evidence of leaks inside now. I shortened the cabover bed by 10" or so but added some storage up there. 

I wont be satisfied till I can park it inside or under a cover. I have read way to many threads and heard way to many stories about these things leaking. For the few $ I have into it I am still way ahead of buying new or used/good condition. I bought this camper knowing it had water damage.... I just didnt know the extent of it. lol... I would do it again. Fun project for me.


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## captain jay

I will be showing it to my wife later today, and with her approval, I will be slipping the truck under it Monday morning to see how it sits. It will be at my trucks payload limit, so I will probably add airbags for some assistance. I will just have to wait and see how it looks sitting on the truck Monday.

It is a 1988 Real-Lite. It has been stored inside a barn since 1988, except when it was on the truck for their vacations, and they only used it for 5 years before getting an RV. It has been parked in their barn since 1993 or 1994. Water leaks should not be a problem, but is there something on the market they suggest to use to seal the edges/corners? I guess it wouldnt hurt to add a bead of some type of caulking just for added protection.

Captain Jay


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## WALLEYE MIKE

I had a 6ft box on my 3/4 ton diesel and had a 10.5 ft camper on mine. I put the tail gate down and it still stuck over by about 18in. To tow the boat i had an extention from the hitch (4ft) had the extention supported by a chain and I bolt thru the back floor of the camper. Kept everything stable while towing. Its doable.


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## POLARBEAR

Jay, There should be a sticker on the camper with it's weight. Mine weighs in at 1739lbs with standard equipment so it sayes. My 3/4 truck handles it well, but it is noticable. There is some sway that I want to help aleviate. 

The sealant I used is called Dicor lap sealant. You have to use non leveling/sagging on verticle applications and self leveling on flat surfaces. About $10 a tube at general rv. It is a must to use the correct sealant. Someone tried to repair our truck camper with silicone and just made a mess. 

Post up a pick when you get it loaded. sounds great.


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## Shoeman

POLARBEAR said:


> Hey shoeman, Nice rig. What year is your sunlite? ours is a 850wt 1997 model. The rain came in between the roof and aluminum along the front above the marker lights. From what I understand that is a regular spot that the seam/caulk comes apart.


It's an 02, Darrin

Mine has the glass front. Hope that will help  The dealer sealed all of the joints including the windows, roof and door prior to the deal (but I did get a chance to inspect it before the sealing)


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## brushbuster

I was a certified RV technician for 4 years at a dealership. Yes to your question, however it is all in truck rating. and how much the camper ways. I have a ten foot camper on my 8 foot box. But it is a pop-up and only ways 1500 lbs. Check your vehicle rating and the weight of the camper. Dont leave your tailgate on not a good idea cables are not meant to carry that much weight and gravel does ding metal not to mention the nice crease you could put in it as it rubs on the bumper.

Yep all campers will leak. The only thing keeping water from infiltrating the wood inside is caulk. Once the caulk cracks the camper leaks and if you find the water you got rot because once it gets wet it stays wet until it is dried out which means removal of either exterior skin or interior skin& insulation.
Inspect your campers OFTEN!!! Caulk at least once a year. Store them inside during winter months. Or put a tarp over them or shrink wrap them!!!. Every where there has been a cutout in the exterior it has been caulked at one time it must be recaulked!!!! Rubber roofs need to have a lap sealant on all vents,and seams. Do not put silicone caulk on the rubber roof!!! That is useless!!!

I have refurbished hundreds of maintenance neglected campers.The campers leak because they were not maintained. Period.When buying a trailer check the interior around all openings (windows, doors, vents A/c unit look for waterstains, bubbles in the vynil wall coverings Black mold. discoloration of linoleum floors. These spots on floors will be dark gray looking. Take a screw out if it is rusty you got leaks.
Get a voltmeter and check the voltage on the convertor when it is plugged into shore power this reading needs to be 13.6. anything in the 12 range indicates the convertor is bad and needs to be replaced. I can go on and on if you like. I would check for leaks, power and all appliances. open the access panel at the back of the fridge look at the burner tube if you see yellow powder or smell amonia the fridge is shot. If you have anyone of those symptoms dont buy it unless you got deep pockets. 
RV's are great if they were taken care of if not they are nightmares.


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