# Orvis Instant Sink tip System??



## 1siena (Apr 15, 2007)

I am going to try flyfishing for Salmon with streamers this fall. It sounds like people are recomending a sink tip line. I already have a spool with floating line and a spool for chuck & duck rigging. Has anyone used the "Orvis Instant Sink Tip System"? It's available at Bass Pro for about 12.00. Supposidly it converts your floating line to a sink tip line with a loop to loop connection. "tie on a leader and your all set". A lot cheaper than buying another spool and a sink tip line.

It's available in 3-5 weight, 4' class II and III
6-8 wieght 4' class III and IV
9-11 weight 6' class IV and V

Being new to this and not being sure what all this means, if I am to fish the big rivers on the west side, which would you recomend for salmon? Stealhead?

Thanks for any advice.


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## Troutlord1 (Jun 6, 2007)

It's available in 3-5 weight, 4' class II and III
6-8 wieght 4' class III and IV
9-11 weight 6' class IV and V

the 6 to 8 weight means its for line weights 6 to 8 and the class III and IV refers to the sink rate 1 is a greenish color and the other is brownish 1 sinks faster than the other I have the same product but havent used it in a long time go with the 1 that fits the line weight you have spooled on your floating line and use the class of sink depending on the depth of the water you might also want to use a weighted fly too thats just my opinion good luck and tight lines opps i forgot to mention the 6 to 8 weight is 4 feet long the 3 to 5 is 4 feet and the 9 to 11 is 6 feet long


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## kype138 (Jul 13, 2006)

Remember to keep your leader short and heavy - I normally stick with a short section (24" or so) of 17# fluorocarbon when swinging or pulling big streamers (weighted or unweighted). The only downside to this is that, if you're clearing line after a freight-train hit and a loop gets whipped up around the fighting butt, your rod may break before you can untangle things. 

Also, above everything else, keep your false casting to a minimum (or don't do it at all). Sink tips tend to hang below your regular line as you cast, and false-casting them to work extra line out often brings that heavy tip and large streamer dangerously close to your face, head, fishing partner, etc. It's difficult to concentrate on a fresh pod of salmon when you have a large Deceiver hanging from your ear or eyebrow. Always wear your sunglasses, and shoot line out on your backcast.

Tight lines!


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## Jackster1 (Aug 17, 2001)

I had that system and rarely used it. 
I sold it for far more than I paid for it though! 

The problem I had is that the heads are too short. I ended up just getting a good shooting line (Rio Slickshooter) and some 30' Rio shooting heads in different densities from floating to full-tilt dredging.
Like kype138 said, one back cast, a haul on the forward cast and it's easy to shoot over 100' of line.


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## TC-fisherman (Feb 15, 2003)

Been there. Not good. 

Unfortunately the extra spool is the best way to go.




On sale at orvis only the class V available

Density Compensated Sinking Wonderline Fly Line 

These lines sink tip-first, maintaining a straight profile between you and the fly. Your fly reaches the productive depth quicker and stays there longer. You get more hits, feel more strikes, and hook more fish. Three sink rates: Class II is 13&#8260;4" to 23&#8260;4"/second; Class III fast sinking, 31&#8260;2" to 41&#8260;2"/second; and Class V super fast sinking, 51&#8260;2" to 61&#8260;2"/second


69.00 Sale: $23.95 WF Class V (SI72EE)


http://www.orvis.com/store/product_choice.asp?pf_id=72C8news&dir_id=758&group_id=14135&cat_id=14140&subcat_id=14141


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## steelie (Sep 20, 2000)

Good Day,

I have the following from orvis in both 5 and 7wt. I just love this system! 

http://www.orvis.com/store/product_...arcatidsrc=&prodgroupid=92480&IsPostBack=true

I don't have to carry extra spools. If I lose a head I can easily replace it. IT allows me to change my presentation with ease! I would highly recomend this system to anyone fishing our streams, lakes and rivers in Michigan. Look, you really don't need a full sinking line around here. but this system will help you to get into those short deep holes. It has been fun to work with. 

Steelie


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## esp17 (Jul 1, 2007)

Jackster1 What Class sinking 30' Rio shooting heads would you use for a 10 wt. rod on the west side rivers such as the PM, Muskegon, Manistee, and Betsie? I have been using floating line with shots but that hasn't satisfied me. Sorry To change the subject but i was curious about sink tips as well.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

Jack is the pro here......but my .02......
IF you wanted to go with a shooting head system get the whole system, so you are ready for any situation. I have the same ones Steelie linked to on my 6 and 9 wts. They kick butt, especially in open water situations. 
I don't use them much in rivers, as I hate trying to pinpoint a short cast and find it impossible to tell how much line speed I need, due to the varying ways the loop to loop shoots through the guides. I am a believer in the thought that you shouldn't try to make a long cast to water you could wade over and make a pinpoint presentation to. 
In rivers I tend to use either an SA streamer express (200 grain on the 6, 350 grain on the 9) or a floating line with weighted flies and shot. I like a floating line that will assure turnover of heavy weights, so I will use a bass bug line on the 6 and a SA Mastery Muskie/pike taper or Rio Clouser line on the heavier rods. The muskie/pike taper seems to handle a bit better in cold water. I can still reach way out across the water if needed, but I find these easier to make accurate presantations.
All that said, I will NEVER give up my shooting heads, but I fish open water more than rivers.


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## esp17 (Jul 1, 2007)

Thanks ESOX, Anyone else want to give their .02 ?


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## Jackster1 (Aug 17, 2001)

With a true shooting head system. the shooting line is very thin and is less affected by current (much like a chuck 'n duck sytem) and, because the shooting line isn't really a floater like the Orvis system, it doesn't drag the head to the surface as readily. The extra length of the 30+ foot heads doesn't hurt in keeping the rig down either IMO.


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## BearAce (Feb 23, 2002)

Hey steelie, how often have you lost a head and do you have the problem that Esox describes - having the loops hanging up in the guides. It looks like a very nice system.

Thanks


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