# Broadhead opinions



## Decker

Getting low on broad heads. And looking to change it up this season. I shoot 125 grain broad heads. For long time I used rage 2 blades, and they worked extremely well for me. Last season I tried hypodermics and again had great success. Except they seem to be a one and done broad head. I tried g5 montec late in the season. Wasn’t impressed with them. I took two shots at deer with them, both ended up being low an clean misses. To me they seem to be a bit heavy. I’m looking at hybrid broad heads at the moment but interested in what everyone opinions is.


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## 12970

Magnus Stinger 125 2 Blade...
Newaygo1


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## birdshooter

If it isn’t broke don’t fix it , meaning go back to what you already had success with and ride that pony.


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## Decker

birdshooter said:


> If it isn’t broke don’t fix it , meaning go back to what you already had success with and ride that pony.


Only problem with going back to the rage 2 blades is I can’t find the o rings for the collars on them anymore. I don’t like the shock collars they replaced them with.


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## jatc

Decker said:


> Only problem with going back to the rage 2 blades is I can’t find the o rings for the collars on them anymore. I don’t like the shock collars they replaced them with.


Pretty much every auto parts store will have them in stock. Cheaper than Rage sells them for too!


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## birdshooter

You can order them from sportsman warehouse , you get like 40 for 6 or 7 bux .


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## bk7799

I shot Rage 125 grain with good success but wanted more than 2 blades. Went to Wasp Jak-Hammer (125 gr) and had great luck but the ferrule would bend after hitting a deer in my experience. Switched to Grim Reaper Carni-four (125 gr) last season and shot 2 bucks. Both deer had great blood trails, went down in sight and the heads held up great. Very impressed, using again in 2020 and they are made in the USA.


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## o_mykiss

Decker said:


> I tried g5 montec late in the season. Wasn’t impressed with them. I took two shots at deer with them, both ended up being low an clean misses. To me they seem to be a bit heavy.


Did you practice with your broadheads? Misses like that are user error, not equipment error. We've all been there. 


125 grains is 125 grains. One 125 grain broadhead cannot be heavier than another 125 grain broadhead

I've used G5s, Rage 2 blades, Rage 3 blades, Muzzy 3 blades, and NAP Spitfires. Killed deer with all of them. All of them had different flight patterns/point of impact so I had to adjust sighting accordingly

I like the fixed blades a lot for affordability/ease of reuse

I like the expandables because they fly same as field points. 

Pros and cons to both. All are good heads though. Just pick one, practice with it, and shoot em in the lungs


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## mofo

Fixed broadheads for me bad luck with rage not opening up .


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## Decker

I’ll admit I didn’t practice with the actual Broadheads. But I assume 125 was 125, and would fly the same. Iv shot rage 2 blade for years and when I switched to the hypo they both flew exactly like my field points. I really didn’t think the g5 would be all that drastically different.


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## thill

I shot 2 blade rage for years and was pretty much a fan boy of theirs. I’ve had mixed results with them so I’m making a switch this year. If I had a good way of sharpening them (dull out of the box) and re-sharpening them for reuse, I might hang on to them for another year. They do fly like field points but they are dull and disposable heads. I lost one nice buck and almost a second from them changing direction after a hit. Not cool! I’m in the process of researching a good fixed blade that can be used over and over and are easy to re-sharpen. I’m strongly considering a single bevel.


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## o_mykiss

Decker said:


> I’ll admit I didn’t practice with the actual Broadheads. But I assume 125 was 125, and would fly the same. Iv shot rage 2 blade for years and when I switched to the hypo they both flew exactly like my field points. I really didn’t think the g5 would be all that drastically different.


Well, a cheap lesson learned without injuring a deer! Fixed broadheads often fly different than mechanicals due to the aerodynamics and weight distribution. Even though they weigh the same. 

You MUST MUST MUST practice with the equipment you are using to shoot a deer. Don't assume that a broadhead flies the same as your field points... trust but verify!


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## Decker

o_mykiss said:


> Well, a cheap lesson learned without injuring a deer! Fixed broadheads often fly different than mechanicals due to the aerodynamics and weight distribution. Even though they weigh the same.
> 
> You MUST MUST MUST practice with the equipment you are using to shoot a deer. Don't assume that a broadhead flies the same as your field points... trust but verify!


I do agree with must practice with equipment. But I don’t have a way to shoot actual Broadheads. I used the dull practice g5 Broadheads and those flew similar to my field points so again I assumed (another dumb mistake) they would be true to the actual Broadheads. 

I was very grateful for the lesson learned without wounding a deer. First time thought it was user error. Second time, same shot
placement and arrow did exact same thing realizing it was definitely a change because broadhead. And I don’t like that. I want a broadhead that flys true to what I practice day in and day out. I don’t want guessing or changes made because I swap to a new broadhead.


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## Wild Thing

If you read Dr Ed Ashby you will learn a lot about what makes a good arrow and broadhead. He has spent nearly a lifetime researching "arrow lethality".

Dr. Ashby Reports – Dynamic Archery Solutions LLCdynamicarcherysolutions.com › pages › ashby-reports

Scroll down to "Files" and click on 12 penetration factors.

One thing I was not aware of is what he identifies as "Mechanical Advantage" (basically the ratio of the length of the cutting service to the width of the blade) of broad heads...and it makes sense.

Even more influence on penetration is the degree of FOC. Extreme FOC (19% - 30%) has more influence on penetration than any other factor except the perfect flight of the arrow...


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## thill

If you venture onto the ashbyfoundation’s website, there is a good read titled “why single bevel broad heads”. While you’re researching the topic, you might as well give this report a read.

Good stuff!


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## bk7799

In a single bevel head I have had good success with the Helix (125 grain) made by Stricklands Archery, also made in USA. Great customer service and the head can be resharpened. This design follows pretty close to what Ashby preaches for length and thickness. I shot 2 deer and one bear with them, penetration was terrific but blood trails were below average. A lot of good options out there but in my opinion it comes down to personal preference and ultimately what shoots well out of your setup.
http://www.stricklandsarchery.com/Helix.aspx


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## usedtobeayooper

Shot fixed heads for about 15 years before experimenting with expendables for longer shots on Mulies out west. Honestly didn’t think they flew all that different from fixed inside of 40 yards where all my killing is done in Michigan, but was more interested in tightening my pattern up to 70. Tried Rage and a bunch of the other mass-marketed fancy stuff, but have since gone back to fixed after having a couple not seem to fully open. Have been shooting G5 Montec’s exclusively for probably 10 years and have no desire to change. They’re consistent and durable as heck.


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## Jimbo 09

I’ve been shooting Nap spitfire 125’s for years and they perform awesome. They hold up well and I often reuse them 3+times. Just touch up the blades on a stone if they dull.


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## fishdip

If its not broke don't fix it, how many deer do you think you can kill with one broad head.Three broad heads three dead deer.RAGE


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## Rancid Crabtree

I killed 9 deer with the same broadhead last season. Kill resharpen and kill again. I would killed many more but hit s rock.https://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/448/which-broadhead-use-2019-edition


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## Dish7

Sparky23 said:


> If you like *pass through blood* and perfectly tuned bows *and good penetration compared to Rage *go fixed. Sell me your rages.


I did a little editing for you, lol.


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## Wild Thing

Dish7 said:


> I did a little editing for you, lol.


My experience exactly Dish. I like complete pass throughs and short tracking jobs....which is why I stopped shooting Rage and went back to fixed broad heads.


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## Decker

Even with tuning (myself and professionally) my bow does not like fixed. Tried fix with different arrows still no luck. I like rages, haven’t had a issue with them. But they don’t make the 2 blades in 125 anymore. The hypos fly great and have had great success with. I normally only get one use out of them tho. Recently pick up a set of sevr ti 2.0 I am really looking forward to shooting. Also going to be getting a set of gravedigger bloodsports coc that I’m excited to try. Maybe a hybrid will work.

Also, I didn’t start this thread for people to bash someone’s preferences on broadheads but to open options to others. Some people don’t like mechs, I get it. But doesn’t mean they are not right for someone e else.


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## Wild Thing

Decker said:


> *Also, I didn’t start this thread for people to bash someone’s preferences on broadheads but to open options to others. Some people don’t like mechs, I get it. But doesn’t mean they are not right for someone e else*.


If you are referring to my post about my preference of fixed blade heads over Rage it really has nothing to do with whether or not I "Like Mechanicals" or not Decker. It has everything to do with my experience and results in shooting both. This is a true and accurate assessment of my experience. If that sounds like "Bashing" to you...so be it. Bottom line is it is a truthful statement of my experience, and for the record I've killed 4 mature bucks with Rage expandables but I never got a complete pass through on any of them and 2 of them were the longest tracking jobs I've ever had. True Story!


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## 22 Chuck

If I was still bow hunting Id do like John Warren-post #35 and use Bear razorhead w/ insert. I know I still have a few heads, inserts?? Im sure no one sells inserts anymore. I believe they were made by Schick razor co back in the good ole days (late 50s thru 60s or so).


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## Decker

Not targeting anyone but people’s experiences are what I like to hear. Actual field time is where we will learn things.


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## Sparky23

Wild Thing said:


> My experience exactly Dish. I like complete pass throughs and short tracking jobs....which is why I stopped shooting Rage and went back to fixed broad heads.


Everyone says that. I dont pull much weight. 60ish I've passed through at least last 20 with rage 3blad . Everyone has there opinion. Mine is dumping blood trails amd huge wound tracks with good shooting leads to recovered deer lol. I've lost 2 deer with rage. Wasnt broadhead fault. That's out of somewhere around 50. Bottum line shoot your confidence and ya should watch most of them drop with a good shot.


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## Wild Thing

Sparky23 said:


> Everyone says that. I dont pull much weight. 60ish I've passed through at least last 20 with rage 3blad . Everyone has there opinion. Mine is dumping blood trails amd huge wound tracks with good shooting leads to recovered deer lol. I've lost 2 deer with rage. Wasnt broadhead fault. That's out of somewhere around 50. Bottum line shoot your confidence and ya should watch most of them drop with a good shot.


Never tried the 3 blades Sparky and my experience was many years ago with the original Rage with I think a little rubber band on them. I'm sure there have been improvements made since then, but as you say, we should shoot what we have confidence and good experience with and that is what I do.


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## Eyecon

I bought some cutthroat 150 grain single bevel heads for this season. I’m putting them on zombie slayer 20” bolts. I shoot a crossbow So had plenty of clean kills with rage but after a missed opportunity last season I started reading and watching videos. Hopefully I’ll be posting up some kills soon with my new set up.


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## Decker

Eyecon said:


> I bought some cutthroat 150 grain single bevel heads for this season. I’m putting them on zombie slayer 20” bolts. I shoot a crossbow So had plenty of clean kills with rage but after a missed opportunity last season I started reading and watching videos. Hopefully I’ll be posting up some kills soon with my new set up.


how do you like the zombie slayer bolts. Iv been looking at new arrows. I know arrows are not the same as bolts but just curious on experience with them?


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## Eyecon

Decker said:


> how do you like the zombie slayer bolts. Iv been looking at new arrows. I know arrows are not the same as bolts but just curious on experience with them?


They shoot really nice. I was planning on a speed ring scope this year but shooting a 150 grain head and these bolts has made the factory scope yardage lines really close. I can see a difference tho for sure. I’ve been practicing from my saddle so I’ve pulled a couple shots as you can see in the picture.


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## Nitro225Optimax

After hunting with multiple types of broadheads for over 2 decades and dozens of dead deer, and seeing/experiencing test after test after test...I have the following thoughts that really apply to both fixed and mechanical:

1. Construction of the broadhead matters most. I believe that, through my experiences, that a one piece ferrule is the strongest out of any on the market. I shot Muzzy's for years...and had great success with them. I even LOVE their trocar chisel tip (see point 3 below). However, in some instances, the ferrule would be mangled if I hit the shoulder blade or spine. "assembled" broadheads where the tip is screwed onto a ferrule and the blades slide into the ferrule...will never sit on the front of my arrows again.

2. After construction, material matters. Aluminum, steel or...titanium? In that order from weakest to strongest, hands down. Now, some one piece steel broadheads are injection cast and even though are "steel", are not as strong as forged. So pay attention to that. Machined from one piece forged steel is stronger than injection cast steel. Aluminum broadheads will never sit on the front of my arrows again. They just don't survive the impact with hard surfaces. I have now moved onto Titanium. Ti is widely available in mechanicals, but just a handful of fixed blades. If I were to shoot fixed blades, I would be OK with one piece steel. 

3. The tip matters. Cut on contact broadheads are garbage unless shooting into ballistic gel. Deer aren't made of ballistic gel. Hit one bone, even a rib, and those blades fold over and penetration immediately slows right then and there. I will never ever shoot a cut on contact broadhead...just a fancy marketing gimmick. I LOVE the trocar tip from muzzy. Why? Ever try to pound a razor blade into a piece of wood? How did it go? Not great! Ever pound a 16d nail into wood? Ever look at the tip of a framing nail? That's right, chisel tipped. Chisel tips enable greater penetration by splitting bone rather than "cutting" it. Broadheads with a one piece ferrule with a chisel tip incorporated are a big plus for me. 

Notice I didn't push any specific brands. I have killed deer with Muzzy's, cheap 3 blade fixed heads from walmart type places, grim reapers, Rage, WASP jackhammers, etc. Many will say, put any broadhead behind the shoulder and through both lungs...you don't have to worry about it. That is 100% true. But real life isn't 100% . That's why most of us will never be pro athletes or billionaires. I now use only broadheads that meet the three major points above. Titanium, one piece, and chisel tipped. Some will find they prefer fixed over mechanical and vice versa...and there are merits to that debate. 

And whatever you choose...practice practice practice. Shoot every day whether you use a bow or xbow. Sling 20 arrows a day or 5-10 bolts a day...just practice. Accuracy is like closing the deal in sales...anyone can make a sales pitch...but closers get paid.


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## textox

Decker said:


> how do you like the zombie slayer bolts. Iv been looking at new arrows. I know arrows are not the same as bolts but just curious on experience with them?


Anything less than 16"is considered a bolt,most modern x-bows shoot cross bow arrows.Bolts and Quarrels are what were shot from ancient cross bows.Those Zombie Slayers are really straight,as are Black Eagle Executioners..001 tir and 110 gr. brass inserts.Good deals from sellers on Amazon.Just sayin..


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## Rancid Crabtree

bowhunters use arrows. Crossers use bolts. some will object to this fact. I wont care.


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## textox

Rancid Crabtree said:


> bowhunters use arrows. Crossers use bolts. some will object to this fact. I wont care.


Start another rant,go look it up,your opinion means little except to you,that along with your ego the biggest part of you , the Wisconsin cow shooter..


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## kdogger

thill said:


> I shot 2 blade rage for years and was pretty much a fan boy of theirs. I’ve had mixed results with them so I’m making a switch this year. If I had a good way of sharpening them (dull out of the box) and re-sharpening them for reuse, I might hang on to them for another year. They do fly like field points but they are dull and disposable heads. I lost one nice buck and almost a second from them changing direction after a hit. Not cool! I’m in the process of researching a good fixed blade that can be used over and over and are easy to re-sharpen. I’m strongly considering a single bevel.


I take them apart and sharpen them with a belt sharpener.


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## Eyecon

Nitro225Optimax said:


> After hunting with multiple types of broadheads for over 2 decades and dozens of dead deer, and seeing/experiencing test after test after test...I have the following thoughts that really apply to both fixed and mechanical:
> 
> 1. Construction of the broadhead matters most. I believe that, through my experiences, that a one piece ferrule is the strongest out of any on the market. I shot Muzzy's for years...and had great success with them. I even LOVE their trocar chisel tip (see point 3 below). However, in some instances, the ferrule would be mangled if I hit the shoulder blade or spine. "assembled" broadheads where the tip is screwed onto a ferrule and the blades slide into the ferrule...will never sit on the front of my arrows again.
> 
> 2. After construction, material matters. Aluminum, steel or...titanium? In that order from weakest to strongest, hands down. Now, some one piece steel broadheads are injection cast and even though are "steel", are not as strong as forged. So pay attention to that. Machined from one piece forged steel is stronger than injection cast steel. Aluminum broadheads will never sit on the front of my arrows again. They just don't survive the impact with hard surfaces. I have now moved onto Titanium. Ti is widely available in mechanicals, but just a handful of fixed blades. If I were to shoot fixed blades, I would be OK with one piece steel.
> 
> 3. The tip matters. Cut on contact broadheads are garbage unless shooting into ballistic gel. Deer aren't made of ballistic gel. Hit one bone, even a rib, and those blades fold over and penetration immediately slows right then and there. I will never ever shoot a cut on contact broadhead...just a fancy marketing gimmick. I LOVE the trocar tip from muzzy. Why? Ever try to pound a razor blade into a piece of wood? How did it go? Not great! Ever pound a 16d nail into wood? Ever look at the tip of a framing nail? That's right, chisel tipped. Chisel tips enable greater penetration by splitting bone rather than "cutting" it. Broadheads with a one piece ferrule with a chisel tip incorporated are a big plus for me.
> 
> Notice I didn't push any specific brands. I have killed deer with Muzzy's, cheap 3 blade fixed heads from walmart type places, grim reapers, Rage, WASP jackhammers, etc. Many will say, put any broadhead behind the shoulder and through both lungs...you don't have to worry about it. That is 100% true. But real life isn't 100% . That's why most of us will never be pro athletes or billionaires. I now use only broadheads that meet the three major points above. Titanium, one piece, and chisel tipped. Some will find they prefer fixed over mechanical and vice versa...and there are merits to that debate.
> 
> And whatever you choose...practice practice practice. Shoot every day whether you use a bow or xbow. Sling 20 arrows a day or 5-10 bolts a day...just practice. Accuracy is like closing the deal in sales...anyone can make a sales pitch...but closers get paid.


I think a 16d nail and an arrow are to totally different deals. The nail is being forced thru. The broadhead needs to keep its momentum to get thru. I doinked a shoulder last year with a rage. That’s the same shape as a 16d nail. The arrow was laying straight on the ground not a sign of blood on it. After that night I found videos online and stumbled on the single bevel blades. It wasn’t to long after that when THP started talking about them. I will report back on how they work ASAP. I can tell you they feel like a quality knife blade. They slice paper into little strips so I’m confident in how sharp they are.


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## Nitro225Optimax

Eyecon said:


> I think a 16d nail and an arrow are to totally different deals. The nail is being forced thru. The broadhead needs to keep its momentum to get thru. I doinked a shoulder last year with a rage. That’s the same shape as a 16d nail. The arrow was laying straight on the ground not a sign of blood on it. After that night I found videos online and stumbled on the single bevel blades. It wasn’t to long after that when THP started talking about them. I will report back on how they work ASAP. I can tell you they feel like a quality knife blade. They slice paper into little strips so I’m confident in how sharp they are.


I’ve done that. Hit a shoulder blade with a WASP jackhammer out of a crossbow pushing far more kinetic energy than a bow. There was blood, but only got 2” of penetration. And the head was mangled. Pic below. The rubber o-ring is how deep it went. Tracked the buck for over a mile in snow and he never laid down. 

Using titanium heads, I’ve punched through the shoulder blade and into the other one with a 80-90ft.lbs of kinetic energy compound bow. I believe the key is the head has to survive the impact. The KE is the hammer. The broadhead is the nail. 80ft.lbs of KE is enough to punch through a deer shoulder blade. 












Sent from my iPhone using Michigan Sportsman


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## textox

Liking both posts Nitro, no one should intentionally shoot any big game animal through the shoulder but it does happen.Animals react to sound at 1100 fps and shoulder hits occur.The only buck I've ever killed with a Muzzy was shot with a x-bow that produced 109 fpke.
Through scapula,one lung then liver. Stuck in an ash log 2".Heaviest buck I ever killed in 54 years of bow hunting.Not much you can do to tune an x-bow other than making sure Cam timing is spot on,but you can tune your arrows.Use the best(straightest tir,) heavy brass inserts,
slight angled vanes.And a sharp durable head.Titanium heads do meet that criteria.Practice is good,but perfect practice is better.Always try to improve the shot process,form is the physical
part,the mental part is just as important.I would suggest not over practicing,stop if you get tired
that is when form will suffer and bad habits evolve.Easier to not develop bad habits than break them.Good luck for your 2020 season Nitro,hunt hard ,hunt smart,hunt safe!!


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## Cat Power

Nitro225Optimax said:


> After hunting with multiple types of broadheads for over 2 decades and dozens of dead deer, and seeing/experiencing test after test after test...I have the following thoughts that really apply to both fixed and mechanical:
> 
> 1. Construction of the broadhead matters most. I believe that, through my experiences, that a one piece ferrule is the strongest out of any on the market. I shot Muzzy's for years...and had great success with them. I even LOVE their trocar chisel tip (see point 3 below). However, in some instances, the ferrule would be mangled if I hit the shoulder blade or spine. "assembled" broadheads where the tip is screwed onto a ferrule and the blades slide into the ferrule...will never sit on the front of my arrows again.
> 
> 2. After construction, material matters. Aluminum, steel or...titanium? In that order from weakest to strongest, hands down. Now, some one piece steel broadheads are injection cast and even though are "steel", are not as strong as forged. So pay attention to that. Machined from one piece forged steel is stronger than injection cast steel. Aluminum broadheads will never sit on the front of my arrows again. They just don't survive the impact with hard surfaces. I have now moved onto Titanium. Ti is widely available in mechanicals, but just a handful of fixed blades. If I were to shoot fixed blades, I would be OK with one piece steel.
> 
> 3. The tip matters. Cut on contact broadheads are garbage unless shooting into ballistic gel. Deer aren't made of ballistic gel. Hit one bone, even a rib, and those blades fold over and penetration immediately slows right then and there. I will never ever shoot a cut on contact broadhead...just a fancy marketing gimmick. I LOVE the trocar tip from muzzy. Why? Ever try to pound a razor blade into a piece of wood? How did it go? Not great! Ever pound a 16d nail into wood? Ever look at the tip of a framing nail? That's right, chisel tipped. Chisel tips enable greater penetration by splitting bone rather than "cutting" it. Broadheads with a one piece ferrule with a chisel tip incorporated are a big plus for me.
> 
> Notice I didn't push any specific brands. I have killed deer with Muzzy's, cheap 3 blade fixed heads from walmart type places, grim reapers, Rage, WASP jackhammers, etc. Many will say, put any broadhead behind the shoulder and through both lungs...you don't have to worry about it. That is 100% true. But real life isn't 100% . That's why most of us will never be pro athletes or billionaires. I now use only broadheads that meet the three major points above. Titanium, one piece, and chisel tipped. Some will find they prefer fixed over mechanical and vice versa...and there are merits to that debate.
> 
> And whatever you choose...practice practice practice. Shoot every day whether you use a bow or xbow. Sling 20 arrows a day or 5-10 bolts a day...just practice. Accuracy is like closing the deal in sales...anyone can make a sales pitch...but closers get paid.


SEVR TITANIUM 1.5


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## Decker

I just pick up a set of sevr ti 2.0. I’m excited to try them out. Everything I’ve read on them have been good.


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## MossyHorns

Rocket Sidewinder 100 grain! Been using them for many years and never had one fail me. I heard the buck hit the ground that I shot last year. He only made it 50 yds and left a large blood trail. Never had a problem with a quartering away shot either.


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## Skibum

I always want two holes and I want a head that will drive through bone if need be. I have had great luck with Slick Trick's, in particular the Viper Tricks. This year I'm changing up and using 150 gr Cut Throat single bevels. Having started bowhunting pre-compound I know how effective a super sharp 2 blade head can be. It's fun to watch a deer twitch and then stand there bleeding out in front of you.


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## thill

Please stop. You are bringing down the integrity of this forum. I check this post to actually learn about broadhead options but it’s getting tiring sifting through your childish bs. 

Just stop.


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## Rancid Crabtree

You mistakenly replied to me when the pouter/culprit who took this off topic is textox. I was talking broadhead selection and he had a meltdown. It only seemed proper to school him once he threw his fit.

Im all about broadheads. Its my business, my livelyhood so Im happy to return to discussing sharp things.

Im currently putting together a video on broadhead sharpening that will educate folks on what it takes to sharpen and broadhead and what sharp means to the bowhunter and crosser.


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## Eyecon

Rancid Crabtree said:


> You mistakenly replied to me when the pouter/culprit who took this off topic is textox. I was talking broadhead selection and he had a meltdown. It only seemed proper to school him once he threw his fit.
> 
> Im all about broadheads. Its my business, my livelyhood so Im happy to return to discussing sharp things.
> 
> Im currently putting together a video on broadhead sharpening that will educate folks on what it takes to sharpen and broadhead and what sharp means to the bowhunter and crosser.


Do you use a different method than the ranch fairy? I bought one of the stay sharp sharpening jigs for my single bevel broadheads. They’re already slice paper into thin strips sharp but I know that’s only for 1 shot.


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## Rancid Crabtree

The ranch fairy got a lot wrong in that video. I already called and spoke with him and the Hunting public to explain the mistakes. He used the wrong guide, he took viewers only half way. I too use single bevel heads (Cutthroats) and always get them hair splitting sharp . In my upcoming video I explain what needs to be done to get a broadhead sharp and then I test that edge with shaving (against the grain even), paper cutting, rubber bands, the thumb nail and antler test and even splitting hairs. I literally show splitting hairs with both a single and double bevel head I sharpened. I sent the unlisted video to the hunting public (since I sent them a ton of product and they are using cutthroats now) They wanted to broadcast it but I asked them to hold off until I make it public first. 

I explain what it takes to get a blade or head as sharp as it can ever get and how to test that edge. Stay tuned.


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## Eyecon

Rancid Crabtree said:


> The ranch fairy got a lot wrong in that video. I already called and spoke with him and the Hunting public to explain the mistakes. He used the wrong guide, he took viewers only half way. I too use single bevel heads (Cutthroats) and always get them hair splitting sharp . In my upcoming video I explain what needs to be done to get a broadhead sharp and then I test that edge with shaving (against the grain even), paper cutting, rubber bands, the thumb nail and antler test and even splitting hairs. I literally show splitting hairs with both a single and double bevel head I sharpened. I sent the unlisted video to the hunting public (since I sent them a ton of product and they are using cutthroats now) They wanted to broadcast it but I asked them to hold off until I make it public first.
> 
> I explain what it takes to get a blade or head as sharp as it can ever get and how to test that edge. Stay tuned.


I’ll be watching


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## Rancid Crabtree

Eyecon said:


> I’ll be watching


I will send it to you via PM so some here dont get upset.


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## Raf

RC always enjoy reading ur posts can u provide me a link to ur sharpening video as well? Thanks


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## pgpn123

I'd like to see the sharpening video too. Thanks


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## Rancid Crabtree

Im releasing it tomorrow. I will send you the link via PM.


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## Rancid Crabtree

Raf said:


> RC always enjoy reading ur posts can u provide me a link to ur sharpening video as well? Thanks


Sure, I will send you the Youtube link to the broadhead sharpening video via PM.


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## Bob Foster

https://www.ashbybowhunting.org/ashby-reports
This is a good read


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## Rancid Crabtree

Ed and I wrote a companion piece for Traditional Bowhunter Magazine back in 2008 when I was developing my own single bevel broadheads and testing them on Cadaver deer I would butcher for others. I was testing my heads from a 48 pound homemade longbow I designed and built with my homemade single bevel heads. Hard to believe that its been 12 years since then.


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## Rancid Crabtree

I think I have sent everybody that wanted it, the link to the broadhead sharpening video. If you wish to view it, send me a pm.


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## Eyecon

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I think I have sent everybody that wanted it, the link to the broadhead sharpening video. If you wish to view it, send me a pm.


I did not get a link to the video. Thank you.


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## Rancid Crabtree

link to the sharpening video sent.


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## Martian

if my BH come out the other side, but not passed through, I unscrew them. if they do not come out, I push them out and unscrew


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## 12Point

I've had good luck with the Muzzy Hybrid Trocar broadheads. 2 fixed blades, 2 open on impact. They fly true and are stainless steel with a chisel tip head


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