# Hot Water Tank issue



## Nascar31Fan (Jan 4, 2005)

Got a cold shower surprise this morning, which of course sucks!
Cheked the unit and the light was reading that it was heating properly and there was plenty of flame. It's almost as if it didn't keep the tank hot until there was a call for hot water and then it fired up.
Any thoughts?

50 gal gas, quick recovery. something-White is the brand (sorry, forgot!) Unit is only 3 years old. Came as part of my 90+ efficiency package when we built the house. Exhausts approximately 2 feet off the ground on the north side of the house. No blockage that I could see, i.e. snow, ice....

Thanks


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Didn't see this until just now. How was your shower this morning? 

It's probably a Bradford White. Here's a link to their site.

http://www.bradfordwhite.com/

I would go there and check the status of your warranty. There's a link there to do that. You'll just need the model number and serial number. Sounds like it could be a dip tube issue also. The dip tube is on the cold water inlet side. It extends down near the bottom of the tank. The outlet of the tank is near the top. (hot water rises) If the dip tube has a problem, it could be pouring cold water into the top of the tank instead of near the bottom. When you turned on the shower, it could have been drawing off cold unheated water from the top of the tank. It's just a thought.

Let us know.

John


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## Nascar31Fan (Jan 4, 2005)

Shower this morning was fine. 
Thanks for the info, and yes that is the model. Only warranty is on the tank, not on related parts, from what i read in the manual (1 year total coverage, 5 years tank coverage). 
Maybe it was just a freak thing...... But thanks again!


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Cool! (or should that be HOT?) :lol:

Glad you didn't have to take another cold shower this morning. If it happens again though, I'd check into the dip tube. They are replaceable.

Good luck!

John


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## caseyj (Apr 8, 2001)

This time of the year, you might want to consider a frozen pipe. Especially if they go thru an attic area. Mine do, so I drip every night when below 28 degrees.


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## MEL (Jul 17, 2005)

I'd put pipe wrap on the pipes. If going thru an attic or un heated space it may help alot, even to help keep pipes from freeze up. 
But will help save energy in the long run. A certified energy Auditor with DTE or 
Mich Con and Consumers, amoung others will tell you that you should wrap at least the first 3 ft of both the hot and cold water pipes. (yes, I said cold )


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## MPT (Oct 7, 2004)

If you have another cold shower try draing the unit. Put gas valve on pilot, turn off the water supply - maybe whole house if no shut off on the tank- drain the tank dry and inspect the last few gals. for rust or any debris. Turn water back on, fill tank and turn gas valve to on. If nothing comes out your valve may not be operating properly. Then pursue the warranty it may save some inconvenience.


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## Petronius (Oct 13, 2010)

Did you have any hot water anywhere else in the house? I had this problem last Memorial Day. The water from the shower was not coming out hot. I checked all the faucets in the house and they were fine. The hot water line was hot, but no hot water in the shower/tub. I tried it later and got hot water that started to turn cool. The next day it was alright, but kept having problems with it. I have a single control Delta system for the shower and it turned out that the problem was in the faucet control mechanism(forgot what it is called) and cost $85. If that is not it, it might be the drip tube like jpollman said. I heard Glenn Haege on the radio a while back say they sometimes go out even in a couple years.


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## PLUMMER47 (Dec 9, 2006)

If it was a dip tube problem it wouldn't be intermittent . You would still get hot water but only for a short time. Being its a Bradford White the dip tube is the last thing I would suspect with your symptoms. Being it doesn't have an error code , I would suspect the thermostat probe / thermowell. Also you have a 6 year warranty on parts as well as the tank, it doesn't cover labor after the first year. Make sure you flush your tank out every 6-12 months depending on amount of sediment you are seeing. And inspecting the anode rod after 4-5 years for city water and 2-3 years for well water.


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## Nascar31Fan (Jan 4, 2005)

I didn't have any hot anywhere. 
Didn't realize you should flush them so often. Where would I look for the sediment? Just out of any of the faucets or from the tank drain itself? 
It's the only time I've ever had a problem with it. Been fine the last couple of days since.......

And thank you for all the help, ev1!


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## MPT (Oct 7, 2004)

Soryy I didn't add that to the instructions, the drain is on the bottom of the tank. You may need a screwdriver depending on your type. You need to get air in the tank by whatever means. Usually turn off the main and open a near faucet's hot side. You put a hose on the drain and find the nearest drain. As you get near the bottom drain into a pail to inspect the water. Sometimes things hang on the sensor so the gas valve doesn't work right. It's the only explanation for the intermittance.


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## PLUMMER47 (Dec 9, 2006)

I usually put the first 2-5 gallons that come out into a bucket and that will give you a decent idea of what kind of sediment you have. If your drain valve plugs up while draining just open and close the hose spigot to get it going again. If that doesn't free the spigot up then turn the cold water back on and pressure will push out the debris blocking the spigot. Even after you've drained it, you could have plenty still in the tank, by turning the water back on it will stir it up and get most of it out. Rusty water of less than 2 gallons is ok , this can come from the dielectric unions themselves. Little clear jell like beads are from the anode rod, and if you get more than a handful you'll wanna replace the magnesium anode rod, or aluminum for well water. White/yellow flakes are calcium , common with electric WH's, you want to get rid of this for sure. As it can build up on the tank bottom of a gas WH and cause hot spots and shorten the tank life. (sometimes you get popping noises while under fire cycle). It also burns out electric elements quickly. Black sediment is Iron bacteria, very common with well water, and usually lesser amounts with city water. On well water its what causes the rotten egg smell. You only have to flush your tank once a year if your getting less than 2 gallons of dirty water and no solids ( pieces of rust or other debris). I've had well water and city water tanks that were never flushed out for 20+ years and the tanks were clean, it depends on the TDS ( total dissolved solids) in your water.


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