# Gas power auger oil questions



## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

Over the summer I got a used strikemaster mag 2000 power auger year unknown, looks 5-10 yrs old. 

My questions are

What is the gas/oil mix ratio, i'm pretty sure its 50:1 

Does it matter what brand of two stroke oil to be used in mixing? I have some Stihl chainsaw (Not bar) oil and some older brand unknown boat oil for another 2 stroke engine (mercury to be exact)

Any help is appreciated, looks like the ice is finally here to stay and time to fire up the power auger. Tight lines and thanks for the input
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## joe66 (Dec 9, 2010)

Run strikemaster 2 stroke oil in it 50:1 is what it should be you can run it 40:1 to wont hurt it

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## WATTS (Feb 4, 2005)

Any good quality oil will work. 40 to 1 is recomended. It will be a richer mix , but that's alright.


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

joe66 said:


> Run strikemaster 2 stroke oil in it 50:1 is what it should be you can run it 40:1 to wont hurt it
> 
> Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


Thanks Joe and Watt for the replies,

Not to disagree, I'd imagine the strikemaster oil is formulated for use in their products but is there anything special about their oil? I'm guessing I am wrong and it's not all the same...


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## Milbo (Jan 5, 2011)

Strikemaster bottle reads 40:1. I have read that many people use Amsoil Sabre Professional at an 80:1 ratio (no smoke). I think 2 cycle oil is pretty much 2 cycle oil and brand does not matter much unless you compare it to synthetic oils.


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## joe66 (Dec 9, 2010)

It dont really matter for now what you run a better oil has better additives to protech seals better I run klotz in mine

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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

Milbo said:


> Strikemaster bottle reads 40:1. I have read that many people use Amsoil Sabre Professional at an 80:1 ratio (no smoke). I think 2 cycle oil is pretty much 2 cycle oil and brand does not matter much unless you compare it to synthetic oils.


 This is not true at all. The tc-w oils mainly for marine use. These are for cooler running lower rpm use.
Then there either straight tc rated oils or jaso fb,fc, or fd which are rated for higher rpm usage like chain saws and of course augers. The fc and fd have less smoke and higher detergent levels.
Stihl ,echo, huskevarna, all make great oil . Most are at least semi-synthetic . The fd oils are usually ,but not always full synthetic. Amsoil is full synthetic. So is opti-2. Both are great oil. 
Many of the higher rated oils are blended by citco and sold as either private labels or manufacturer oil.
If getting amsoil is too much trouble or strikemaster is too much trouble , just find a good home center and buy the above chainsaw oils. Cheaper and very high quality. If strikemaster is 40-1 ,I bet its quality is not as good as some others. 

opti-2 , you can run at 100-1 . Probably the same with amsoil. With all the other synthetics and semi's, you can run 50-1 with no worries 

this is for the mag series . older literature. 
To operate your engine you need to use a clean, high quality,
2-Cycle oil mixed with fuel. For recommended mixture ratio of
fuel and oil, see Table 1 for ice augers.
NOTES: Tecumseh synthetic and special-formulated oils are
available at your Authorized Tecumseh Servicing Dealer. Use
of NMMA, TC-WII or TC-W3, JASO FB or JASO FC classified
oil is recommended.
Contact your Authorized Tecumseh Servicing Dealer for
Tecumseh Oil.
I bet this is before the advances of newer formulations. It looks like 2008 or earlier .they do not even list fd oil. I would never run tc-w2 in an auger. Too much smoke and it will eventually clog the carb.


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

double trouble said:


> This is not true at all. The tc-w oils mainly for marine use. These are for cooler running lower rpm use.
> Then there either straight tc rated oils or jaso fb,fc, or fd which are rated for higher rpm usage like chain saws and of course augers. The fc and fd have less smoke and higher detergent levels.
> Stihl ,echo, huskevarna, all make great oil . Most are at least semi-synthetic . The fd oils are usually ,but not always full synthetic. Amsoil is full synthetic. So is opti-2. Both are great oil.
> Many of the higher rated oils are blended by citco and sold as either private labels or manufacturer oil.
> ...


Thanks so much with the informative post, I'm going to try the Stihl oil that I have around 50:1. Its fully synthetic and reads JASO FB and API TC/TC+ Certifications. So I think I should be set, any thoughts,


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## Outdoorsman17 (Dec 28, 2005)

Here's a handy website I found a couple years ago

http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Be careful with using oil specified for outboard motors, these are normally water cooled engines and air cooled runs a bit hotter and higher RPM's and a higher flash point is needed to ensure adaquit lubrication.

I have several 2 cycle powered toys & tools, some call for 40:1, some are 50:1. To make things easy I mix up five gallons at time at 45:1 using a synthetic oil (Klotz TechniPlate) with a little Seafoam for good measure  in everything and have yet to (*knock on wood) had any issues.

http://klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KL-215_Quart&cat=5

Plus, I love the smell of Klotz in the morning! 

All that being said, has anyone tried/uses Pennzoil Aircooled 2 cycle oil?


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## high brass (Dec 28, 2010)

I have a strikemaster 'mag 2000' [2hp. tecumseh motor] I'm guessing about 8-10 years old.I just checked my original owners manual and the recomended fuel mix is 24:1.I believe you can run at a higher rate if you are using a synthetic oil,but you might want to give strikemaster a call first. Good luck.


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## Outdoorsman17 (Dec 28, 2005)

Here's some great reading material to keep you busy for awhile 


http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=38599.0

http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=50312.0


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

Outdoor2daCore said:


> Thanks so much with the informative post, I'm going to try the Stihl oil that I have around 50:1. Its fully synthetic and reads JASO FB and API TC/TC+ Certifications. So I think I should be set, any thoughts,


 That is probably the best oil on the market even though the amsoil guys will say theirs is. Look at "the arbor site" . These guys run chain saws all day every day. Stihl is rated very high by people who use these kinds of engines for a living. 
Even my lowly motorized bicycle from china gets fc/fd oil. It helps reduce smoke and runs great. Plus you can find it very cheap. I buy it at garage/estate sales as a throw in. People do not know what they have.


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## woodie slayer (Feb 25, 2006)

one bottle of strike master oil mixes with one gallon gas. it cost $1.19 a bottle why wouldn't you use the brand your auger is.
i tried using a tank of my steil weed waker gas in my jiffy this year and it run like crap. i dumped it out bought jiffy oil ($ 1,.49) and it runs like a top. i:ve been cutting 10 inches of ice everyday for the last 3 weeks and it runs great..


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Been using Opti-2 for more than 20+ years on all air cooled equipment. It covers all from 25:1 up to 100:1. 6 oz per 5 gals and I'm done. Pure and simple.

Any other One step oil will do the same.

Name brands are the same just with a different manufacturers name on them. Stihl, Red max, Echo, Shindawa--all the same. Although you might get a extended warranty using the manufactures brand.


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

WALLEYE MIKE said:


> Been using Opti-2 for more than 20+ years on all air cooled equipment. It covers all from 25:1 up to 100:1. 6 oz per 5 gals and I'm done. Pure and simple.
> 
> Any other One step oil will do the same.
> 
> Name brands are the same just with a different manufacturers name on them. Stihl, Red max, Echo, Shindawa--all the same. Although you might get a extended warranty using the manufactures brand.


 Not quite , Mike. Some have changed to a full synthetic fd oil. Some have not. 
Most are semi fc oil. some are synthetic fc.
True that citco is blending a lot of them just like Meijer oils used to be.
The manufacturer can not deny warranty if the oil meets specs and extended warranties on 10 year old augers might be out of the equation. 

No question that opti is good oil ,but you are are in business where a failure can lose you time and money quickly and you are using them hard. These are recreational toys that are run 5-10 times a season. 
The good chain saw oils are still more protection that these augers will ever need and much cheaper /easier to find.


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## grapestomper (Jan 9, 2012)

I use saber synthetic from Napa. Cuts down on the smoke and the engine runs way better. 
Doesnt matter what ratio you run either. I mix at 70 to 1 in all my toys. Runs great.


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

Thanks for the help, but my hope of using the new to me "used" power auger today did not end up happening. I added enough for 45:1 and tried firing it up to no avail and after many failed attempts broke the pull cord :-( 

When I bought it, it ran and had a little bit of gas in it. Over the summer/fall it was store where it accidentally leaked the gas out and was dry before adding mix today. Is this an area for concern? I'm thinking of trying to fix the pull cord myself and putting in closer to 24:1 gas/oil mix or you think I'm better off just bringing it to the local 2 stroke store? Man what a way to start my long weekend. Bummed.... Well at least I'm out on the ice 


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

double trouble said:


> Not quite , Mike. Some have changed to a full synthetic fd oil. Some have not.
> Most are semi fc oil. some are synthetic fc.
> True that citco is blending a lot of them just like Meijer oils used to be.
> The manufacturer can not deny warranty if the oil meets specs and extended warranties on 10 year old augers might be out of the equation.
> ...


Shindawa would double my warranty if I used THIER oil. Nothing special with their oil except more money for them. (right from the dealers mouth) Use another brand and normal length of the warranty would apply.

Best thing about Opti and oils like it is one size fits all.


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## Benelli Bob (Sep 23, 2010)

I have an older 9" SM lazer mag ultra that is 24:1. Give them a call and make sure. Good luck.


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## vanj85 (Jun 23, 2011)

If your motor model number is TMO 49xa your mixture rate is 40:1 per your owners manual, which can be found on a simple search. As for oil I use "cheap" supertech from wally world, one of the only things i buy from there, on all my toys, sleds, quads, bikes, boats, augers, and saws, and haven't ever had an issue with anything. Now i wouldn't suggest it on a 2010 motor still under warranty because they might try to screw you if it did fail, but once again as long as it meets specs in the owners manual you can run any brand you want with out them being able to legally void you warranty. Now on to about you fixing your auger that depends on your mechanical aptitude. recoils are fairly simple as long as its just your rope that broke and not the spring, springs can be a pain especially if the new one does not come compressed. You said it was the rope if it broke off fairly close to the handle you can usually pull the guard and snake the rope back through, baring that the rope was still in good shape. If it is fraying pretty bad i would suggest replacing the rope, and you can usually find parts explosions fairly simple i usually use www.bartzmower.com for most of my parts needs and diagrams but you can find them most every where with a simple search. If you need rope any marina or small engine repair shop will have rope on hand. As for it not starting I would first fix the recoil them dump a little gas down the cylinder and try to start, if it fires than it is a fuel issue, if it does not fire than it is a spark issue. Then go from there if fuel check fuel lines, carb, vent cap ect. If it is spark start simple plug, wire.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Outdoor2daCore said:


> Thanks for the help, but my hope of using the new to me "used" power auger today did not end up happening. I added enough for 45:1 and tried firing it up to no avail and after many failed attempts broke the pull cord :-(
> 
> When I bought it, it ran and had a little bit of gas in it. Over the summer/fall it was store where it accidentally leaked the gas out and was dry before adding mix today. Is this an area for concern? I'm thinking of trying to fix the pull cord myself and putting in closer to 24:1 gas/oil mix or you think I'm better off just bringing it to the local 2 stroke store? Man what a way to start my long weekend. Bummed.... Well at least I'm out on the ice
> 
> ...


Sounds like the gas evaporated and oil left behind has gunked up your carb. If your proficiant at this type of repairs they're pretty simple to clean/rebuild. The trick is at the end of the season to dump the gas out of the tank and run the carb dry. Been doing this trick for many years and (*knock on wood) I've had great success at pulling it out, fill'ner up and getting it to start on the first/second pull. 45:1 is good mix ratio at 24:1 it may be to rich, you'll get a lot of smoke and possibly foul a plug.


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## JigginRod (Dec 29, 2010)

Use any brand oil you want,I have used Klotz in everything forever,but if your mixing at 80-100:1 ratios you are starving your engines of oil:yikes:.Been running 32:1 forever and never fouled a plug in anything from a 20 year old Jiffy,to a YZ250 trail bike.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Some interesting info for future reference.

Directions to how to mix gas and calculate volumes : 

How to figure out mix ratios: Ok you got some number like 30:1 or 50:1 or whatever and you want to know how much oil to mix in the amount of gas you have... first need like units ie.. gallons (gal) and gallons or ounces (oz) and ounces. Normally gas is in gallons and 2 cycle oil is in ounces so we need to convert one to the other ... just convert gallons to ounces.


There are 128 oz in a gallon. - trust me!!.

128 oz of gas mixed 50:1 = 128oz / 50 parts = 2.56oz Yes when you add in the oil there will be 51 total parts this is not a problem you are using a mix ratio Ie. mix 50 cups of gas with 1 cup of oil ... or ... 50:1 ... Ok ???

Don't over analyze this: The engineers of the motor's for our weed wackers tried to make it easy on us, so any ******* could have a long career in the mowing business ... ok.


Or for the math people ... Where

G = Gallon(s) of gas you have.
M = Mix Constant (ie 50 if you are using 50:1)

G * 128
------- = oz's of oil to add
M 

If you are still confused just use the chart below... find how much gas you got on top and your ratio on the side and meet them to find the amount of oil you will need. "In ounces (oz)"

Gal/mix 0.5	1	1.5	2	2.5	3	5	10
20:1	3.2	6.4	9.6	12.8	16	22.4	32	64
25:1	2.56	5.12	7.68	10.24	12.8	15.36	25.6	51.2
30:1	2.13	4.26	6.39	8.53	10.66	12.8	21.33	42.66
35:1	1.82	3.65	5.48	7.31	9.14	10.97	18.28	36.57
40:1	1.6	3.2	4.8	6.4	8	9.6	16	32
45:1	1.43	2.85	4.3	5.7	7.2	8.6	14.3	28.5
50:1	1.28	2.56	3.84	5.12	6.4	7.68	12.8	25.6
100:1	0.64	1.28	1.92	2.56	3.2	3.84	6.4	12.8


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

JigginRod said:


> Use any brand oil you want,I have used Klotz in everything forever,*but if your mixing at 80-100:1 ratios you are starving your engines of oil:*yikes:.Been running 32:1 forever and never fouled a plug in anything from a 20 year old Jiffy,to a YZ250 trail bike.


Not with Opti synthetic 2-stroke. Those one mixes cover all ranges of ratios. Its so easy, no ratios to figure out.

As per Burksee list, 5 gal. 6.4 oz will cover every 2-stroke engine you got. I go thru roughly a gal. of oil per year (100 gals of gas mix)


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## duffy7382 (Dec 11, 2009)

I would think that the type of gas being used in our augers and other gas powered products is more important than the oil. Methanol is in all of the gas we buy and is terrible on small engines. It hardens and damages fuel lines, rubber carb parts and anything else it touches. Your car or truck has parts that were designed to use fuels with methanol in them. Most likely your small engine will run much better if you don't have methanol in the picture. This goes for boat motors too. the motor manufacturers are up in arms about big brother going to a 25% ethanol additive because tha engines were not designed for this much ethanol. Try using SEF (Small Engine Fuel) from VP Racing fuels. It costs more but you can leave it in your tank all year and it doesn't go bad. You can buy it at your local lawn mower repair facility. Oil / Gas mixtures shouldn't cause your auger to start or not to start. The diaphrams in the carbs usually harden and make them hard to start and keep running. A good tune up and good gas will go a long way when your out on the ice and have to drill lots of holes.


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## JigginRod (Dec 29, 2010)

http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=9
Sounds like great oil,but I'm gunna stick with Klotz just because I love the smell of it  
Regarding methanol,I've been adding marine Stabil to my boat fuel,so far so good.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

duffy7382 said:


> I would think that the type of gas being used in our augers and other gas powered products is more important than the oil. Methanol is in all of the gas we buy and is terrible on small engines. It hardens and damages fuel lines, rubber carb parts and anything else it touches. Your car or truck has parts that were designed to use fuels with methanol in them. Most likely your small engine will run much better if you don't have methanol in the picture. This goes for boat motors too. the motor manufacturers are up in arms about big brother going to a 25% ethanol additive because tha engines were not designed for this much ethanol. Try using SEF (Small Engine Fuel) from VP Racing fuels. It costs more but you can leave it in your tank all year and it doesn't go bad. You can buy it at your local lawn mower repair facility. Oil / Gas mixtures shouldn't cause your auger to start or not to start. The diaphrams in the carbs usually harden and make them hard to start and keep running. A good tune up and good gas will go a long way when your out on the ice and have to drill lots of holes.


I think you mean Ethanol is in most all gasoline these days and yes in higher concentrations its very hard on the rubber parts of fuel systems.

I dont care what your running, let it dry up/evaporate out of the carb leaving the oily residue behind and there's a fair chance they wont start until cleaned. Done many of these without replacing any seals/diaphrams/gaskets. Sometimes just taking the high or low mixture screws out and blowing a little carb cleaner into the carb is enough to get them going.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

JigginRod said:


> http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=9
> Sounds like great oil,but I'm gunna stick with Klotz just because I love the smell of it
> Regarding methanol,I've been adding marine Stabil to my boat fuel,so far so good.


Amen brother, see post #10!


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

Alright guys thanks for the input and ideas....

Here's how it stands....

After fishing with no luck I came in around 4, spent the next two hours fighting with the recoil and spring before rewinding and retieing the recoil. I finally got that squared away and back in place, but in the process knocked it over and partially broke one of the handles, great just my luck but whatever I'm going to get this MF running if it's the last thing I do!!!! I then tried starting it with adding a little gas to the cyclinder and giving the plug a quick dip in gas. Seemed like a good idea not sure if it was. Still no luck, but it sounded better than before. So my thought is that is its a gummed up carb and that I am running too lean of a gas/oil mix (45:1) when it says 24:1 on the powerhead. Also, it reads TC300, then a bunch of random numbers as I assumed the serial number with the model engine number as the TC 300, so I imagine it is a tecumseh. 

I've never cleaned a carb before and don't really know where to start. Any pointers would be appreciated. The only thing I think I've ever done is spray in some carb cleaner/starter fluid into my merc outboard to help it get running when it wasn't. 

Helps????  

It's flippin cold here in the NWLP and it should be great ice making conditions all around good luck all this weekend.


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

Thanks Burksee,

I'm going to have to give it a go as for cleaning out the carb and possible taking the shortcut of just spray in some carb cleaner. Any suggestions on brands, I have never bought it before? All I can say is I sure hope cleaning out the carb i\s easier than rewinding the spring and reseting the recoil because that was a pain in the butt that I wish I would have avoided. Well, thanks again and I wish you well for the weekend, hopefully you get a chance to get on some fish.


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## duffy7382 (Dec 11, 2009)

Burksee said:


> I think you mean Ethanol is in most all gasoline these days and yes in higher concentrations its very hard on the rubber parts of fuel systems.
> =
> I dont care what your running, let it dry up/evaporate out of the carb leaving the oily residue behind and there's a fair chance they wont start until cleaned. Done many of these without replacing any seals/diaphrams/gaskets. Sometimes just taking the high or low mixture screws out and blowing a little carb cleaner into the carb is enough to get them going.


Yes, I meant ethanol. Must be an older model than mine. I don't have adjustment screws. It's about 8 years old. It does have an idle speed screw, thats it


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Outdoor2daCore said:


> Alright guys thanks for the input and ideas....
> 
> Here's how it stands....
> 
> ...


That small difference in ratio won't affect it from starting.

Either not getting enough gas or it may be flooded. Dry everthing out (or put in a new dry plug) , pull the plug and put a bit of gas or a shot of Gumout or other carb spray, replace plug and start (as long as its getting spark).


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

Outdoor2daCore said:


> Thanks Burksee,
> 
> I'm going to have to give it a go as for cleaning out the carb and possible taking the shortcut of just spray in some carb cleaner. Any suggestions on brands, I have never bought it before? All I can say is I sure hope cleaning out the carb i\s easier than rewinding the spring and reseting the recoil because that was a pain in the butt that I wish I would have avoided. Well, thanks again and I wish you well for the weekend, hopefully you get a chance to get on some fish.


 Try this : get some starting fluid. Put a couple ounces of gas/oil mix in the tank with a heavy dose of seafoam or carb cleaner. Take the spark plug out and spray starting fluid in the cylinder for a second or two. Put the spark plug back in and see if it fires. Sometimes the start fluid will give the motor a kick and the carb cleaner will get sucked through and clear out the clogged jet. 
If not , the float bowl has to come off and the jet taken out and cleaned. Look online for exploded view diagrams on google images like this one. It will give you general instructions on how to clean the float bowl and jet. Hopefully the diaphragm(primitive fuel pump) is o.k.

http://www.arkansas-ope.com/TECUMSEH_CARB_REPAIR.html


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## Outdoor2daCore (Nov 8, 2010)

Great news!! 

Let it sit for a while after redoing the recoil and trying to start it to no avail, but about an hour later choked it and it sputtered, took the choke off and it started up. Ran if for quite some time with some success, but i couldn't get it to idle well at all. Only way it would somewhat idle was at 1/4 choke and the auger head was spinning pretty good. It ran well when throttled, but would be nice to have it idle like it supposed to so it doesn't die or sputter between holes. 

Anyhow, thanks again for all the help and it looks like a carb clean is still in my future, hopefully I can get through the season without anymore serious problems.


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## Outdoorsman17 (Dec 28, 2005)

Some of you people are from the ice age:lol:


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## vanj85 (Jun 23, 2011)

Im glad you got her running you must have dumped too much fuel down the cylinder and flooded her out. Those recoil spring can be a royal pain in the butt. Oh and never use starting fluid on a 2 cycle motor unless you like replacing rings, theres no lubricant in starting fluid therefore the cylinders do not get lubricated like shot of mixed gas in the cylinder works twice as good just don't put too much other wise you will flood it. I should have said that prior but oh well I guess. If you have a float bowl style carb then there not too bad to clean. Diaphrams are a little more difficult to properly clean. Carb cleaner sprayed though is not the proper way to clean a carb because more than likely youll just break a piece of gunk off and then run it through your fuel system usually plugging fuel line or further plugging jets. You should always dismantle your varbs and throughly clean them. I like to soak mine in gas for a couple hours then spray down w carb clean the rinse again with fresh gas. If on top of your motor it has a stiker 24:1 then run it at that mix. That is what my strikemater lazer 3000xl is. With the tc3.0hp motor. You should have an idle mixture screw on your carb if you have a diaphram carb screw all the way in and back out one turn that should be the preset. If you have a main jet screw that is the same as well. those are both on the side of the carb. If you have a float bowl carb then your screws will be one on the side ,idle, one turn out, and main on the botom one and a half turns. If you do have two adjustment screws than set both at preset, then fire up your motor and let it warm up then run at fast position and adjust your main in until it almost stalls and then back out until it starts running eraticlly then meet in the middle. Now back the rpms off to an idle and do the same for your idle mixture screw. if still idles bad the pm me your email and ill send you a carb rebuild manual. If you want pm me your email and ill send you a crap load of tc liturature I found it all when my auger took a dive out of my jet sled while pulling it with my sled. Hope this helps.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Glad to hear you got it going! Gumout is the brand of carb cleaner you can find the easiest. Although you've got it running if you have use the choke its running lean and may still have a bit of gunk inside the carb jets and passages. If there are no adjustment/jet (H and/or L) idle mixture screws to remove/adjust I'd take the fuel line off at the carb and give it a good shot of carb cleaner into fuel inlet itself. Just about all carbs have an idle screw so you may have to turn it up a bit.

NOTE! if there are (H/L) idle mixture screws make you first carefully turn them to the right until they seat, make note of how many turns it took on each one. Now turn them to the left and take them all the way out. Give each hole a good shot of carb cleaner then put the screws back in. Turn them until seated then back them out the amount of turns from step 1. Be gentle when seating the screws, they a mixture screw not a retaining screw, seat them to hard and you run the risk of breaking one off or damaging the seat.

On the mix, being an older motor back in the day the oils used needed to be a richer mix. Using todays oil at a 24:1 could cause excessive smoking, rough running, poor idle and plug fouling. With todays oil's, especially synthentics a 40 or even 50 to 1 is all you need.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Oh yeah, forgot to add "dont forget the SeaFoam!" 2 to 3 oz's per gallon of gas.


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## Capnhook (Feb 14, 2004)

The same company that makes STABIL, make a product called START UP or something like that. It comes in a yellow package. You dump out the old fuel, put a couple Tblsp of this in, and filler up with new fuel. It has worked like a champ on my Father-in-laws stuff. I have to fix his machines when he leaves fuel in them all winter. Try it! Capnhook


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

A quick shot of starter fluid or carb cleaner to get it started does not harm the rings or cyl. for the brief time it is in there. No worse than pulling the cord and turning the engine over dry.


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## JigginRod (Dec 29, 2010)

I've always used WD-40 when I needed to spray a primer shot in the cylinder.It is flammable you know.


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