# Building a Deer Blind Tower



## 330-Trapper

I am looking for Deer Box Blind Pictures and Ideas of What to build and what Not to add to an enclosed stand...

If anybody has built deer blinds before and Has things they'd add to theirs please post....

I have a steel frame which is 7' tall and 4x8, I can Weld a larger platform if needed to make it Wider than 4'


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## dja05

I built an 8x8 platform shanty on 16 foot poles. The 8x8 is almost to big for one guy to cover all sides comfortably, but when I built mine I had the wife and kids in mind also as my wife hunts and my daughter will next year. And my son who is 6 can't be left out either. Another problem with the size is trying to heat something that big. If you plan to hunt alone 4 ft. is probably plenty big enough and would be easier to heat on those cold days on stand. Just some ideas, hope they help.


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## tdejong302

Built mine on cedar poles to reduce rotting. Top was 4 by 8. Built a blind on top 4 by 6. that left me 2ft. to step onto and put down my gear before stepping into the blind. Put cross braces on it at 7 oclock/1 oclock postions to reduce tipping. also built a ladder that I screwed right into the stand to help reduce any unstability of the stand. I'm about 14ft. ft. high. Will look for some pics.


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## WhitetailJunkie

I was going to ask this same question. We started an elevated blind in Oct but ran out of time to finish it. I'm looking for ideas like the OP as to what to put on top. Our platform is 5'x6' and elvated 14'. We would like to put a few of these on our property for some of the older hunters that can't get around as well.


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## harrisonhunter

Here is a couple I built for my dad a few years back.

This is a 6x6 with 14' 4x4's all wood framing.










This is a 6x5 with 14' 4x4's with a porch. All stel studs for framing. This is the way to go. Alot lighter

Both are just sitting on the ground and are very stout and stable.


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## NoWake

I went with a 5X5 and am very pleased with the size of it for me and one of my kids. Here are some screen dumps of the sketches I drew up.


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## 330-Trapper

This is exactly what I'm looking to Hear from Everyone, Thanks, keep em' coming.... 

Should I go with 4x6 and a porch or should I Weld on an extra Foot and make it Wider? like 5x6??

My frame now is 7' high and 4x8 long...


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## 330-Trapper

ttt


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## NoWake

If I were you I think I would go with a 4x6 blind with a 2 ft. deck. I wish I would have incorporated a larger base on mine to accomodate a deck for entering. 
What kind of steel framework do you have?


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## dja05

I would go 4x6 if you plan to hunt alone, add a foot if not. The porch is also a good idea, if for nothing else to put your tank for a heater on. At the height that your stand is going to be a set of stairs is also a good idea. Mine is 13 feet to the floor and the stairs with a hand rail is great for easy access. I put 8 foot side walls on mine too so it's easy to load my muzzleloader inside. It's more of an area to heat but the extra head room let's you put shelves up to store items on. I also picked up a cheap prehung entry door that is full sized that makes entry easier.


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## 330-Trapper

I have a Steel Frame from a Store, this is a strong TV rack frame, 10 times stronger than a Wood frame, I actually plan on pulling it from location to location with my 4wheeler, so I'm planning on having Wheels that can come on and off, or Up and down with steel pins.

The Rack is 7' high and 4x8, It dosen't have a top... Yet, I plan on using treated 3/4" plywood set into the frame, where a steel mesh top used to be.


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## pete

5x6 16 ft to floor


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## pete




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## T-Bone0717

pete said:


> 5x6 16 ft to floor


Hope you didnt forget the 52" LCD and toilet in there


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## pete




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## Riva

Here's a link to a company that sells plans:

http://www.greenleaf-designs.com/


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## Falk

pete said:


> 5x6 16 ft to floor


Great looking blind. A ton of work involved there.


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## 12970

Pete, how did you get the roof on that one. That is a long ways up there??

I am looking at building one but the wood for a roof just seems to add way too much weight I am currently looking at a Metal Roof and Siding to cut down on over all weight to build one next spring and enclose a stand I have just being it is elevated with only 3 sides but looking to remove the sides and replace with Ag Metal Panels and try and lighten the load a bit. Seems the roof makes it a lot of time and work putting it together and like Pete's picture that is a long way up there to work on the roof that ladder pictured does not even get close to it...

I am looking for info on metal roofing and siding... with pictures if any have blinds with these materials used

Nice Blinds pictured though...

Newaygo1


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## Liver and Onions

The steel used on the roof was left over from a polebarn project. The sides on my blind are about 5'1" and 4'11'. Enough for the water to run off. I can't see any reason to build the blind any taller. You can't see anything when you stand up when the windows are waist high. You can pee from your knees and still be looking out your windows.
The wooden outside windows will be hinged next summer. Plexiglass windows inside that flop down. 360 degree vision and shooting. The telephone poles mean that I will never need to worry about the wind.

L & O


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## pete

Newaygo1: heres some pics


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## Gwiki

I don't like doors either. Just one more opening that has the potential to let cold air in. That's why I LOVE my trapdoor, I'll never build another blind without one.


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## 12970

The animal that is chewing on your blinds is more likely to be a porcupine. Being that most all plywood is made from southern pine they seem to like it a lot. I have had them chew through many walls etc on my blinds. Not sure about the treated lumber but might be more to do what the type of wood. If you lived west of the Mississippi River you could get plywood or other sheathing that is made out of larch or fir and the porcupines don't like that wood. But love the southern pine that we get here in Michigan being the cost to get it here is less than something from out west. I am looking at Metal AG roofing and siding for my next blind. As for doors you just have to preassemble the blind at home where you can make the door somewhat air tight. I did that on my last blind screwing it all together and then disassembled it, loaded it on my utility trailer and took it to the property. Doors are just one thing that needs to be tight so animals and bugs can't get in they can make a mess quickly like wasp nests... Especially when you fire up a heater they seem to come out from just about anywhere and it makes for a tough hunt watching out for them and the mice that eat anything to make a nest as well...

Good Thread going here a lot of good ideas and information...

Thanks,
Newaygo1


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## 330-Trapper

I can't believe all the Excellent Idea's that keep showing up... 

Putting all this information together is going to be Fun... I'm building the blind on paper first using all You guys are telling me.... I'm going to buy materials at Menards or the lumber yard Next week... and then fire up my Turbo Heater in the Garage.... 

I'm still looking for Ideas on how to add Heavy Wheel brackets to my Steel Frame... I want to be able to Weld on a removeable hitch and Wheels that can either lift off the ground or can be unbolted without too much trouble... Maybe with hitch pins... just don't know yet?


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## drev

I have a 20' X 3' triangular cell tower section
The plan is...........

I have a dream,:lol:

_with some of the prior ideas that others have done, thanks!!!_

5' of footings each leg
Construct the blind on the ground and use a JCB to place on top of said section.

Use a salvaged stairs from a plant demolition at a scrap yard.
Using that
wrap along the outside of the tower along having a small "porch" at the top/blind
also have a small "roof" at the ground (under the the stairs) to park the ranger underneath. 

One other item I would do;
is paint everything above the window line, flat black.


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## 330-Trapper

I think painting the windows to match the color that they will "look like" when they are open would allow the deer to get used to the presence of the Blind and the open windows....

Don't know yet,,, I have been looking at the pictures of the blinds, and Love the Camo patterns that make the blinds blend in with the skyline... Big long vertical lines especially make the towers seem more like a part of the woods... BUt the windows shut and open look completely different???

There's the pictures of the wrapped tower that show quite a few deer paying a lot of attention to the blind... those are the deer that are just checking to see if there is something different going on, then the last time they came through.... I think they would notice when the windows are Camo from when they are Black...


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## 12970

I am not sure about painting the inside of a blind if it is elevated being the small angle they will won't see the small opening unless you are wearing all black and have you head also covered. But I am not sure just how legal it could be being I have heard CO's writing tickets for not wearing Blaze Orange while in one's blind but it might just be an added ticket to make a point of other violations. I would go with a lighter color maybe a medium green. to blend in with the trees /pines. I would like something like Predator Camo the break up pattern of camo they have like fall gray but that is just too much time to get the detail. 

I recently saw at Lowes camo covered plywood in Mossy Oak Break Up. 4x8 sheets. It looked to be filmed dipped on the one side which might make it easier to build just one less thing to have to do paint that is for the walls. It was at the Lowes off Cedar in Lansing. Never seen it before I was buying plywood for a train table for a nephew. It was just about Oct when they had it might be a seasonal thing but you could order it if you are using plywood for the exterior walls.

Just something easy to get it done a little quicker not having to paint the exterior walls and less money on paint and rollers and of course time.

Just another idea if some are interested...

Newaygo1


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## drev

I agree that the inside should match the outside pattern when open.

I just wear the orange bibs 
with a black coat :coolgleam

Inside of a "elevated" blind and having to wear orange???

Leaving the blind yes, inside?????

Seen that camo'ed OSB, I thought it was a bit pricey, 30-$40 a sheet.

maybe a bulk "sticky" 3' roll would be cheaper


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## Liver and Onions

Newaygo1 said:


> .......
> I recently saw at Lowes camo covered plywood in Mossy Oak Break Up. 4x8 sheets. It looked to be filmed dipped on the one side which might make it easier to build just one less thing to have to do paint that is for the walls. It was at the Lowes off Cedar in Lansing. Never seen it before I was buying plywood for a train table for a nephew. It was just about Oct when they had it might be a seasonal thing but you could order it if you are using plywood for the exterior walls.
> ...........Newaygo1











Here is a picture of camo OSB. This kind is for interior use. Maybe it is made for exterior use, but I haven't seen it.

L & O


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## Frantz

How do you guys anchor these towers? Do you set the posts or is another means to make them somewhat portable?


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## NoWake

Frantz said:


> How do you guys anchor these towers? Do you set the posts or is another means to make them somewhat portable?


They make some anchors that screw into the ground similar to those dog tie out things, only supersized. Alot of guys use those and run cables down to them from the blind framework.

Like these:


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## Gwiki

> How do you guys anchor these towers? Do you set the posts
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> I did both on mine, sunk the posts 2.5', concreted them in...and used anchors like those above with 1/4" cable with turnbuckles.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


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## costanza

Guys:
Where do you get the screw in anchors? I have a box blind ready to go (almost) and need a set of those babies! I hope to go up to 12 feet, less the anchored portion of the 4 by 4 posts. The blind is wood, about 4.5 feet by 5.5 feet, with a 2 by 8 wolmanized base. It is HEAVY-how deep should I go with the post holes/concrete?


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## NoWake

I've seen the earth anchors at some farm supply stores like TSC and Rural King, and probably all the big box home improvement stores. 

Mine sit on top of the ground with a skirt board around the bottom to help stop the legs from sinking in too far, but if I was going to bury the posts and set them in concrete I'm not sure how deep I would go. I think 42" is code for pole contruction, but that may be overkill for a blind. Then again maybe not, I've seen frost heave some things quite a bit.


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## Michihunter

As featured in Outdoor Life, this one ws built by one of my wifes cousins.


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## steve1983

Michihunter said:


> As featured in Outdoor Life, this one ws built by one of my wifes cousins.


Thats what im talking about!!!


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## Mr. Brownstone

Michihunter said:


> As featured in Outdoor Life, this one ws built by one of my wifes cousins.


Michigan........the only state where hunters' deer blinds are actually bigger than the bucks they shoot.  :lol: 

"I can see six different farms from up there.....but its kind of hard to see if they have horns or not."


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## 330-Trapper

What... No Bunkbeds? :yikes:


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