# Utility trailers



## ducksarge (Jul 3, 2011)

This was my first year going out west with a wall tent and it took up a lot of space in my truck. Since it was a Sept hunt I did not bring the wood stove or any wood, but if would have been later I would have liked to, but would not have the room. I don't have a cap for my truck ( tonneau cover ) and do not really want to get one. I have been thinking about getting a small utility trailer. Wondering if anyone has any recommendations for one. One that would handle being towed to MY/MT/CO every year and could handle some of the 2 tracks.


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

I had R&R build me a 6x10 aluminum trailer last year and couldn't be happier with the quality. I've been out west and keep in mind that you may want extra tall wheels in order to get the axle to clear any rocks on the trail.


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## anagranite (Oct 23, 2010)

I pull a 7x12 tandem axle trailer. Really cuts the fuel economy but when 3 people pack way too much crap it is necessary. We also take a side by side because of the road conditions and the ability to split up when we hunt. 

Having ground clearance is very important, we had a flat tire and a destroyed tongue jack in the first 30 minutes of rough travel. 

We use a regular tent and have the trailer parked to protect it from the wind. We also use the trailer for making coffee and food storage. A buddy heater will warm it up quickly for chilly mornings. 

I've used a 5x8 in the past but that was almost too small. 6x10 would be the smallest unless it was 2 guys and they packed efficiently.


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

Boy I think about the road that leads to our camp in Idaho. I'd hate to haul a trailer down that rut after a rain. I would look into a cheap aluminum capper. I picked one up for 100 bucks for my truck. I take it off pretty regularly.


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## shaffe48b (Oct 22, 2019)

A uhaul trailer and an insurance contract split amongst your party (and with a wall tent being that important it must be quite a party) would probably be a cheaper option.

Reevaluating options and priorities might be a better option. Hunting out of a pack on your back is a good experience for this one. If you need a truly exquisite level of comfort, then even a hotel or rented cabin might be a better option than a kit you can't even fit in a pickup truck. Otherwise, good sleeping bags will take you anywhere. A propane tank takes up a lot less room than wood and can be refilled on location. Actually wood can probably be bought on location for way cheaper than hauling a trailer.


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## Fool'em (Sep 29, 2016)

We are hauling a 14ft enclosed trailer to Montana. Couple wheelers in the trailer. 
Road we are camping on is not good but the member of our group who is there right now says we can get it in as far as camp. We will need the wheelers to get any further in. 
Trailer will also serve as our bear proof storage. Also plenty of room for empty coolers on the trip out hopefully fill them up when we are there. 
We are traveling with multiple spare tires, high lift jack, shovels, chainsaw, tire chains and other assorted tools. Hopefully we don’t need any of that. 
Unfortunately I’ve found if I’m not stuck or fixing things it’s not a normal hunt
There is a 0% chance everything goes smooth. 

if for some reason we can’t get the trailer in to camp we will leave it as close as we can an drive the wheelers up to camp. I’m worried about the tires on the rock more than anything. My old man is responsible for the trailer so I’m guessing he is not going to spring for extra heavy duty tires. I am responsible for the tent and the food. 
We are going to be warm and comfortable and eat like kings. If we have a trailer at camp is yet to be determined.


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## grapestomper (Jan 9, 2012)

I hauled a 5x8 for years to haul elk back. With a cooler box inside. 
Worked great. 
Last year hauled a 7x16 that we used as camp. Worked good also. 
Gas mileage wasn't great. 
We slept inside and hauled our gear there. Not a bad way to go.


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## 7mmsendero (Dec 2, 2010)

grapestomper said:


> I hauled a 5x8 for years to haul elk back. With a cooler box inside.
> Worked great.
> Last year hauled a 7x16 that we used as camp. Worked good also.
> Gas mileage wasn't great.
> We slept inside and hauled our gear there. Not a bad way to go.


This seems like a really good idea. I’m still waiting for train service back and forth to the western states. Just pull your truck up on a flatbed and ride.


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## 98885 (Jan 18, 2015)

ducksarge said:


> This was my first year going out west with a wall tent and it took up a lot of space in my truck. Since it was a Sept hunt I did not bring the wood stove or any wood, but if would have been later I would have liked to, but would not have the room.  I don't have a cap for my truck ( tonneau cover ) and do not really want to get one. I have been thinking about getting a small utility trailer. Wondering if anyone has any recommendations for one. One that would handle being towed to MY/MT/CO every year and could handle some of the 2 tracks.


I had a hybrid trailer made. After owning several styles, sizes and makes, I had one custom made to my exact specs. Haul my quad, gasoline and other odorous liquids in the bed and everything else that needs to be scent free and dry, in the enclosed area. Over all trailer length is 17' including the 3' V nose. Tail gate is two pieces and double as ramps.


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## buckykm1 (Dec 19, 2011)

I had R&R Trailers in Three Rivers build My Cargo Trailer that I built into a Toyhauler, there Trailers are all Aluminum, personally that's where I would go.

Kevin


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## 98885 (Jan 18, 2015)

buckykm1 said:


> I had R&R Trailers in Three Rivers build My Cargo Trailer that I built into a Toyhauler, there Trailers are all Aluminum, personally that's where I would go.
> 
> Kevin


About 5 years prior to having this recent trailer built, I had a cargo trailer built for deer camp and as a toy hauler as well. I loved everything about it except when temps dipped into the teens or colder, the metal/aluminum parts frosted up. Wall and ceiling studs. Especially the rear corners where the drop gate pulleys are and the open corners can't be insulated as well due to the moving parts. The heated trailer caused all that to melt soaking the carpet and wood of the floor and walls. If I only used it in milder temps, it was a great set up. It was an 8.5x20 w/4' V nose. I built a complete kitchen in the nose. Cabinets, sink, microwave, etc. Windows w/storms. Florescent ceiling lighting, 1-Dbl bunk on each wall, insulated floor, walls, ceiling, 30amp service w/50' generator cord. Great setup but not a great 4 seasons set up. Went to a PU camper since and tow my new hybrid trailer as my camp today.


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## buckykm1 (Dec 19, 2011)

johnIV said:


> About 5 years prior to having this recent trailer built, I had a cargo trailer built for deer camp and as a toy hauler as well. I loved everything about it except when temps dipped into the teens or colder, the metal/aluminum parts frosted up. Wall and ceiling studs. Especially the rear corners where the drop gate pulleys are and the open corners can't be insulated as well due to the moving parts. The heated trailer caused all that to melt soaking the carpet and wood of the floor and walls. If I only used it in milder temps, it was a great set up. It was an 8.5x20 w/4' V nose. I built a complete kitchen in the nose. Cabinets, sink, microwave, etc. Windows w/storms. Florescent ceiling lighting, 1-Dbl bunk on each wall, insulated floor, walls, ceiling, 30amp service w/50' generator cord. Great setup but not a great 4 seasons set up. Went to a PU camper since and tow my new hybrid trailer as my camp today.



I had a similar issue, but then I put 1/2" Styrofoam insulation over all the metal areas that I could, and it solved 95% of the problem

Kevin


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## 98885 (Jan 18, 2015)

buckykm1 said:


> I had a similar issue, but then I put 1/2" Styrofoam insulation over all the metal areas that I could, and it solved 95% of the problem
> 
> Kevin


I did manage to use spray foam to cure it partially but not 95%. Just due to the studs in the walls/ceiling, water still bled thru the wood walls/ceiling. Only way to cure that would have been to use wood wall/ceiling studs like in RVs. Wasn't an option for me. If I had to do it again, I'd remove all the skin on a cargo trailer and spray foam the entire center including the studs. That would definitely fix it 95% making it usable in winter.


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## buckykm1 (Dec 19, 2011)

johnIV said:


> I did manage to use spray foam to cure it partially but not 95%. Just due to the studs in the walls/ceiling, water still bled thru the wood walls/ceiling. Only way to cure that would have been to use wood wall/ceiling studs like in RVs. Wasn't an option for me. If I had to do it again, I'd remove all the skin on a cargo trailer and spray foam the entire center including the studs. That would definitely fix it 95% making it usable in winter.


if I had it to do over, they do make a thin insulation R27 I think that comes in roles about 3 or 4' wide, that you could put up before the walls and ceiling were finished.
last year in Montana we had 4 days at -7 and I didn't have any major issues.


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## 98885 (Jan 18, 2015)

buckykm1 said:


> if I had it to do over, they do make a thin insulation R27 I think that comes in roles about 3 or 4' wide, that you could put up before the walls and ceiling were finished.
> last year in Montana we had 4 days at -7 and I didn't have any major issues.


Yes that's what I used in mine. Unfortunately it didn't cover the studs only was used between them. Still made them sweat from heating the inside while the outside maintained outside temps. That's awesome you didn't have issues in that cold of weather. I'll do another cargo trailer but my expectations won't be as high. I'll only use it thru October in Mi rather than using it in November. Last November we had sub zero during rifle season for night time lows. No issues in my camper except the bottom of the door frosted up. In them temperatures, even RVs have issues I think.


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## Ranger Ray (Mar 2, 2003)

buckykm1 said:


> I had R&R Trailers in Three Rivers build My Cargo Trailer that I built into a Toyhauler, there Trailers are all Aluminum, personally that's where I would go.
> 
> Kevin


One thing about aluminum, you need to have something covering it on inside, as the oxidation comes off on everything. If I had to do over, I'd have had the plate walls anodized. Something on the list to do down the road.


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## 98885 (Jan 18, 2015)

Ranger Ray said:


> One thing about aluminum, you need to have something covering it on inside, as the oxidation comes off on everything. If I had to do over, I'd have had the plate walls anodized. Something on the list to do down the road.


Never had that issue. Had mine for 5 years. No problems. I do have vinyl walls with insulation bit no oxidation as of yet.


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