# Pole building heat



## PoleHolder

I have a 30x40 building with 10' sidewalls. The walls are insulated with 2" extruded poly (dow pink) and covered with OSB. I am installing R19 or R25 rolls in the ceiling (depends on the $) which is also OSB. 2 overhead doors also insulated with 2" dow pink. My original idea was to purchase a counterflow direct vent furnace (lpg) and mount it on the back wall, blowing the heat across the floor towards the overheads. Any idea on how much btu I'll need? Any other thoughts or ideas? I don't plan on heating all the time, but I want to be able to keep it in the 60s during the cold weather months while I am working out there without listening to a noisy salamander heater and smelling that kerosene burning.


----------



## ))--Courtney-->

PoleHolder said:


> I have a 30x40 building with 10' sidewalls. The walls are insulated with 2" extruded poly (dow pink) and covered with OSB. I am installing R19 or R25 rolls in the ceiling (depends on the $) which is also OSB. 2 overhead doors also insulated with 2" dow pink. My original idea was to purchase a counterflow direct vent furnace (lpg) and mount it on the back wall, blowing the heat across the floor towards the overheads. Any idea on how much btu I'll need? Any other thoughts or ideas? I don't plan on heating all the time, but I want to be able to keep it in the 60s during the cold weather months while I am working out there without listening to a noisy salamander heater and smelling that kerosene burning.


You probably already have concrete... My dad did in floor heating, the temperature in his stays around 65 degrees.. Very efficient!!


----------



## FREEPOP

My barn is 32 x 48 with 10' walls 3 overheads, OSB on ceiling and R19. 

60 degrees is quite warm if the outside temps are 10-20 degrees outside and then add any wind. For the most part you could get away with 60,000 to 80,000 BTU IMO. I don't heat mine with propane but based on what I play around with a wood stove and kerosene heater that's a pretty good guess. The concrete is a huge heat sink that'll zap away the heat.

Northern Tool has some down draft funaces that I've been eyeing. I'd only heat a dozen or so times. Forced air does create dust too.


----------



## Nitrobasser

Your most cost effective way to heat if is a wood stove. They are considerably cheap if you find a used one . Ive seen buddies build them out of 55 gallon drums. Put it in a central location close to the outside wall and put some dura rock on the wall behind the stove for fire protection. Mount a fan behind it to move the air. You will spend a small fortune using a furnace to heat that barn. You would be suprised how those wood stoves can kick out the heat. They do sell wood stoves which have blower motors which ductwork can be incorporated as well.
good luck


----------



## mb

Keep in mind that if you do install a wood stove in your garage / pole barn, that your homeowners insurance may not cover any damages that may occur as a result of using it. I would check with the insurance company first before installing any heater just to be on the safe side.

mb


----------



## FREEPOP

that is correct about the insurance, and the rates will change with a wood burner.


----------



## PoleHolder

Thanks for the input, I am going to look at a few options today.


----------



## slowpoke

I had a wood heater salesman come over and give me an easement on installing a pipe system for a wood heater I had. I have a 2 story barn and it was going to cost me $1500.:sad::yikes::yikes:
SO I gave the heater back to the friend I got it from. I got me a used vent less gas heater, last year, from this site and I'm going to give it a try this winter.


----------



## notmuchtime

How about a hanging heater. A 75,000 btu furnace will work for you. It's much better for the heat exchanger life if you maintain a temp in the building rather than letting the inside temp fall to match the outdoor temp and then running the furnace to your desired temp. Condensation on/in the heat exchanger ensues and speeds up the deterioration of the it. 
Infra red radiant heat is awesome too. It heats the objects in the space from overhead and is very comfortable.


----------



## cliffd

I have a unit heater (134,500 btu) for sale that I will make you a good deal on. You could consider a consider coverting it to run on LPG to meet your needs.

Drop me a line if you are interested.

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=8244&cat=500


----------



## ScottSki

I'm a lic. & Insured Heating contractor, I think what the person said above can work from my experience.
A hanging 75,000 btu Unit with a blower. (mount the thermostat far enough away from it too)
Also a Radiant tube-heater tends to throw heat down well too.
Or a cheap furnace in the corner with a plenum and some runs,
It all depends the room you have.
Im actually installing a 90+ furnace and A/C with ductwork in the attic/truss-webbing of a Pole barn for a guy now. 
Your insulation factors are the mosty important thing!


----------



## PoleHolder

Thanks for the ideas. I got a quote on a 70,000 btu Rheem downdraft for $395. Another $100 or so to vent it. It is 80% efficient so I would have to vent it above the peak and use double wall vent through the ceiling and roof. They told me not to use a 90+ % furnace due to condesation issues. Most of the ventless units I've seen are less btu and as much money. I am going to look at the hanging units again, but what I looked at before cost about the same.


----------

