# spring beaver



## JUNKYARD (Jan 25, 2011)

How should a newbie go about planning a trapping trip for beaver?


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## U.P. trappermark (Jul 4, 2010)

Did someone say spring beaver.

My name is Mark and im addicted to Castor and Dobbins Backbreaker.:help::lol:

All you need is some 330's and #3 or #4 double long springs on drowners and some "castor". They travel alot in the spring and you can catch a pile of them in the channels that leave ponds,rivers and creeks with a 330 set in the channels. Castor mounds work great also, young beavers useually stay with the adults for 2 years and after that they make them find new territory due to new kits in the house so they my travel a mile or more to find territory that no other crabby females will run them out. Males will travel along ways also.


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## JUNKYARD (Jan 25, 2011)

Thank you for the reply. would i be okay with just 330's , and if so how many should i get?:help:


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## U.P. trappermark (Jul 4, 2010)

Well that all depends on how much ground/water you want to cover. How many spots can you put a 280 or a 330. If you have the option to check or scout out the area before open water begins you would have a better idea of how many traps to pack in or what would work best for a certin situation. Kinda like pre season scouting for K-9's but all in all it depends on the location weither it be a river or a beaver pond you are trapping.

When im setting on a river IMHO I try to set with all long spring on a drowner with a feed bag filled with rocks for the drowner, light to pack them in and there is always rocks around. 
On a beaver pond/dam I use both. Drowners around the pond set up with castor mounds seems to always pick up more beavers for me but I always set a few conis also. #1 is the entering point of the house/lodge (check you regulations) but you will also pick up the small beavers too, depends on if you are trying to get rid of all or just the adults. Conis also work good on the dam where the water exits, there is always water going out somewhere and if you can find it and set on it you WILL catch beavers there and also the ocasional otter too. Good bonus if caught while the season is open.

This is just my opinion and others will agree or dissagree but if im trying to leave seed for next year I always try to set as far away from the house as possible. Get the big beavs and when you start picking up smaller ones pull the traps.


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## U.P. trappermark (Jul 4, 2010)

As for how many trap, it hard to say without seeing the area. 
But most of all, have fun.


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## Beaverhunter2 (Jan 22, 2005)

There's a lot to talk about when it comes to Spring Beaver Trapping- too much to put in a post. I'll hit a few high spots and (assuming the ice melts before season ends), I'd be happy to take you out if you want to go. I trap the Holly-Rose Center-Lake Orion-Ortonville Area so I'm east of you- but not too far east.

1. 330's will get you started, but the Spring is the time when footholds really shine. A castor mound set with an MB750 and a cable drowner is my mainstay when the ice goes out.

2. There's lots of good beaver lures out there but some are definitely better than others. A few of my castor-based favorites are Dobbin's Backbreaker, Caven's Timber, Kaatz Bros.'s Beaver Lure, Otter Creek's Blanketmaker, and a lure I make myself we call "Magic Mud". The three food/curiosity lures I use are Dobbin's Woodchipper, Wilson's Green Beaver Lure, anbd Caven's Bounty Beaver. The last lure I use is only used as a change-up when they get a little shy- Dobbin's Beaver Plus. By reserving it I can use it's slightly different scent to throw them a curve.

3. You can catch beaver with #3s and #4s- but IMO you want to target the front foot. (Mark and I may disagree here, but that's ok.) If you are buying footholds for beaver- the smallest trap I'd consider is the #4 jump (and these only because you can usually pick them up for about $10 but they have a 7" jaw spread). I strongly recommend that beaver footholds be #5's- either the MB750, the CDR 7.5, or one of the double longsprings. I've caught beaver in traps all the way down to a #1 long, but I lost FAR more beaver in #3s and #4s than I care to imagine. I haven't set anything smaller than a #4 jump for beaver in almost 25 years. Catch and hold one extra beaver and you're money ahead buying a #5s vs a #3 or #4. JMO (BTW, I almost always target the back foot.)

4. If you're making drowners- invest in 1/8" cable. It will last a lot longer than 3/32" and wire is something I haven't used for beaver drowners in many years. If a beaver breaks your wire and is lost, you could have paid for a bunch of cable. (FWIW most of mine are 15' long with a few 10', 20' and 25'.)

5. Sandbags full of rocks and sand make great drowner weights. They take a little while to fill, but if you're only setting a few sets it's no big deal. If you're close to the truck or boat, cinderblocks work well and are quicker. You'll get less pull-outs with a heavy, moveable weight than you will with a deep water stake.

6. Beaver travel a lot in the Spring- especially after a rain. Be sure to relure soon after a rain. You'll be amazed at how your catch can spike the night after it rains if your sets are ready and waiting.

7. Buy Charlie Dobbins' "Beaver and Otter Trapping- Open Water Techniques" and Carl Jones' "Beaver Trapping using Supreme Methods". This will give you quite a boost on the learning curve! F&T will have them. One blanket beaver will cover the cost of the books and you'll catch a lot more than that much sooner if you get them and read them.

Let me know if you want to go out- and pray for warmer temps and a little rain to get rid of the ice. I am- I've spudded enough for one season!

Beaver trapping is hard work- and very addictive. Have fun and be careful!


John


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## JUNKYARD (Jan 25, 2011)

Once again thank you! My biggest worry is that i just started trapping, and have only used 110's. After looking online though i see footholds are not to complicated to set up. 
The plan is to go north this spring and float a river slash swamp and trap for a couple days. So maybe i should get a couple of each, and a canoe:lol:
I think i may need help lol!


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## Black Powder Trapper (Feb 15, 2008)

Welcome and take John up on his offer you will learn a lot in a short time.


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## JUNKYARD (Jan 25, 2011)

I would love to tag along with you john just say when. I just cant wait till next November to put out more traps!!!


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## Beaverhunter2 (Jan 22, 2005)

Sounds good! Just pray for rain (to melt the ice). We'll stay in touch!

John


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## U.P. trappermark (Jul 4, 2010)

All this talk about spring beavs is getting to me.
I was in the basement sniffing on a bottle of Backbreaker today, thats not weird at all right?

Im doing a rain dance right now for us!!!!
Bring on the rain...


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## great hunter (Feb 18, 2009)

I was also thinking about trying some spring beaver for the first time. Been wondering when the spring beaver really start moving good.


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## Gander Club (Dec 31, 2004)

John...I'd take you up on that offer if you need a ride alonger! I'm looking to try this spring trapping myself. They're just big muskrats...right?


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## Beaverhunter2 (Jan 22, 2005)

great hunter said:


> I was also thinking about trying some spring beaver for the first time. Been wondering when the spring beaver really start moving good.


As soon as the ice starts going out. (Pray for rain!)



Gander Club said:


> John...I'd take you up on that offer if you need a ride alonger! I'm looking to try this spring trapping myself. They're just big muskrats...right?


Yep- big muskrats that can be shyer than a toe-pinched coyote if they get educated to traps. Beavers start out dumb but learn fast! Assuming the ice melts, I'll be glad to take you along. We're supposed to get rain here on Monday. That should jumpstart the process.

John


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