# Best Bilge pump?



## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

Hey guys, time to upgrade my bilge pump. To my knowledge mine is original to my 1990 lund tyee. Im Also currently replacing ALL fuel lines including vents and fill hose as the fill hose was cracked and leaking gas into bilge while refueling (not cool). Usually the boat is on the trailer at the end of the day but i would like to slip/moore the boat more often on long weekends and vacations. Currently its manully turned on at the dash. Whats your most trusted bilge pump, what gph should I install, and should i get one with an automatic switch? Thanks.


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

Also will be replacing bilge hose while im at it with something hopefully better than that corrugated crap that’s in there now.


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## Jimbo 09 (Jan 28, 2013)

Just put a rule 1100 in our crestliner as it only had a 500gph from the factory. Wired the 1100 to the switch and the 500 to a back up float switch


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## Senior chief boats (Sep 6, 2017)

Trunkslammer said:


> Also will be replacing bilge hose while im at it with something hopefully better than that corrugated crap that’s in there now.





Trunkslammer said:


> Hey guys, time to upgrade my bilge pump. To my knowledge mine is original to my 1990 lund tyee. Im Also currently replacing ALL fuel lines including vents and fill hose as the fill hose was cracked and leaking gas into bilge while refueling (not cool). Usually the boat is on the trailer at the end of the day but i would like to slip/moore the boat more often on long weekends and vacations. Currently its manully turned on at the dash. Whats your most trusted bilge pump, what gph should I install, and should i get one with an automatic switch? Thanks.


I agree with putting in a rule with the automatic switch. Also Johnson make a good pump to. What ever u buy for your fuel hose make sure it is coast guard approved


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## wyandot (Dec 5, 2013)

Rule is the most respected brand in the industry. If your bilge hose is 11/8" and you have the room for it, I would buy a 1500 Rule and a Rule-a-matic float switch. If you're working with 3/4" hose I think the 800 GPH square body is the largest offering Rule offers, but don't quote me on that.


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

Senior chief boats said:


> I agree with putting in a rule with the automatic switch. Also Johnson make a good pump to. What ever u buy for your fuel hose make sure it is coast guard approved


Yes all fuel line was uscg approved. Spent a pretty penny on the 1.5 inch fill line at about $20 per ft. Had 3/8 to fuel pump then 1/4 to carb also 5/8 vent lines.


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

wyandot said:


> Rule is the most respected brand in the industry. If your bilge hose is 11/8" and you have the room for it, I would buy a 1500 Rule and a Rule-a-matic float switch. If you're working with 3/4" hose I think the 800 GPH square body is the largest offering Rule offers, but don't quote me on that.


Currently the bilge hose is 3/4 and looking at it tonight i might not be replacing the bilge hose. I would need 6 foot long arms to reach where it penetrates the free board. Still thinking of how i can easily do that.


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## Quack Addict (Aug 10, 2006)

Trunkslammer said:


> Im Also currently replacing ALL fuel lines including vents and fill hose as the fill hose was cracked and leaking gas into bilge while refueling (not cool).


When you're pulling all the old lines, plug all the inlets & outlets and pressurize the tank to about 2psi to make sure it holds air. Listen for any hissing. If no apparent hissing, let it sit with low pressure in the tank for a couple hours to see if it bleeds off. I've seen several aluminum and fiberglass tanks that had issues and needed to be replaced. Had to replace the 75gal aluminum tank in my Sea Ray when I restored it because the top was Swiss cheesed with pin holes. 

You can make a pressure gage with some stuff from the hardware store. Cobble together a fitting with a Schrader valve or quick connect & ball valve to add air. Rubber hose, hose clamps and bolts work great to make plugs for the vent and feed lines. For the fill hose, you might need to get creative.

If you hear hissing, use a spray bottle with soapy water to find the source.

I consider a leak check on an old tank as a must anymore when replacing fuel lines.


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

Quack Addict said:


> When you're pulling all the old lines, plug all the inlets & outlets and pressurize the tank to about 2psi to make sure it holds air. Listen for any hissing. If no apparent hissing, let it sit with low pressure in the tank for a couple hours to see if it bleeds off. I've seen several aluminum and fiberglass tanks that had issues and needed to be replaced. Had to replace the 75gal aluminum tank in my Sea Ray when I restored it because the top was Swiss cheesed with pin holes.
> 
> You can make a pressure gage with some stuff from the hardware store. Cobble together a fitting with a Schrader valve or quick connect & ball valve to add air. Rubber hose, hose clamps and bolts work great to make plugs for the vent and feed lines. For the fill hose, you might need to get creative.
> 
> ...


I just walked in the house after finishing the fuel lines. That would of been a great thing to do and maybe i will next winter. The tank is plastic, i gave it a thorough look over and appears in great shape. I guess I partially pressurized the tank with the air compressor while trying to syphon gas from it for the generator when we lost power Saturday night haahaa.


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## salmon_slayer06 (Mar 19, 2006)

If local just take the old stuff with you to west marine. I like that one on south river road. They had all this stuff on sale already maybe they still do. They have an entire aisle of just bulk hoses of all kinds and an aisle on just bilge pumps. Just ask the old timers there they have lots of knowledge on what to get...


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

I wish the west marine in Lansing had some of these old timers. Seems like a bunch of rookies in there most times ive been. Every time I draw a blank at the hardware store i hunt down those old timers. They sure have taught me a thing or two in the past!

The original pump is an Attwood. Heck the thing is still working after 28 years, maybe i should get another one!


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## Mr. Kardux (Feb 11, 2013)

Made in Lowell mi.

Sent from my SM-J327V using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## piketroller (Oct 24, 2016)

Rule are the best of the “cheap” bilge pumps. You can get higher end pumps targeted at much more expensive saltwater boats but unnecessary. While bigger may seem better, if the wiring is designed to work with a 500 gph pump and it’s fuse rating, jumping up to a 1500 gph might need bigger wires installed and you should always use the exact fuse size as marked on the pump itself. Too large a fuse can cause the pump to light the boat on fire if a piece of debris stalls it, and too small a fuse, or too small of wiring that causes excess current draw can blow the fuse leaving your good pump non functional.


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

Roughly 7 years ago, I put in a Rule pump with auto switch. Excellent device and works great today. It worked a champ several times on overnight trips to Canada when it rained heavily overnight and the bilge pump did its job. 

On a 1990 Lund Tyee, are you sure you can't access the bilge hose where it penetrates the hull? My 1997 Pro Sport has the bilge exit on the port side, and there is a removable access cover immediately adjacent to the bilge outlet. Additionally, the bilge outlet has a hex nut on the exterior side, so it is a very easy thing to replace. I can put one hand on the hose from inside the gunwhale through the access hole, and at the same time the other hand is on the exterior threaded fitting. 

I'm sure the details on a 1990 Tyee are different, but isn't there a threaded fitting on the exterior, and an access cover on the interior/cockpit side?


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## Trunkslammer (May 22, 2013)

Large plastic nut on the outside of the hose fitting yes. But this boat is an i/o with a full height transom. The blige hose exits on the starboard side a couple inches forward of the transom. Unreachable with my arm. Ill figured out a way. Thanks for all of the info guys!


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## Jimbo 09 (Jan 28, 2013)

Our sportfish is the same way. Had to unbolt the whole side pannel from the console back to get in there to install the second fitting and hose for the new pump Wasn’t to bad at all, took about a half hour to pop the panel off. The Lund is probably similar


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