# Shanty Plans..for the doit yourselfers



## TrekJeff (Sep 7, 2007)

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ICE FISHING HOUSE PLANS*
*BASIC MATERIALS FOR ICE FISHING HUT*
3 sheets of 4' x 8' x 5/8" plywood 
1 heavy piece of canvas or poly tarp 8' x 15'
1 - 2" x2" x 7' ridge pole
3 - 2" x 4" x 7" floor supports/skis (optional for towing)
2 handles per door
2 barrel bolts per door
4 - 2" hinges for floor openings
assorted screws, heavy duty staples
* OPTIONAL MATERIALS*
1 - 4" eye bolts and rope for towing
3 - 6" x 5/8" plywood ridge poles
desired paint, stain, or varnish
*TOOLS REQUIRED*







staple gun
jig saw
skill saw
screw gun
sharp knife
pencil and string
measuring tape




*ICE FISHING HUT CONSTRUCTION - DIRECTIONS*
First, place a 40" x 84" piece of 5/8 plywood on the floor. On one end of the plywood, screw down a 2" x 4" x 40". The back panel of the hut is fastened to this 2" x 4", to enable the front panel to lay flat with the back panel on top of it (see diagrams A and B). 
If you are adding skis, put them on now with 2" or 3" wood screws. Space the skis 20" apart and taper the front ends for easy towing (see diagrams C and D). 




















Next, take the remaining two sheets of plywood and mark 6'. Measure down from this mark 20" in the centre of each sheet and tie a 20" piece of string to a nail. Drive a nail into the mark on each panel; fasten the pencil and string to this nail, and, holding the pencil, scribe an arc on the top of each panel (see diagram F). 
Use a jig saw to cut out the arcs. Slide the off-cut plywood down 3" or 4" under the cut panel and mark the radius. This curved piece of off-cut can be used later to attach the tarp.
Next, measure a 2' x 4' doorway on the front and back panels, if two doors are required. Leave a 5" sill on the bottom to keep out blowing snow and retain plywood strength (see diagram G below). 
Cut out the door(s) with a jig saw and re-attach with two hinges. A handle and latch completes the job. A small porthole can be cut at one or both ends for ventilation. If a heater is to be used, ventilation is a must to avoid build-up of dangerous carbon monoxide. Also, a small viewing hole at either end at eye level can be cut out and covered with a piece of plastic or lexan.
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ICE FISHING HUT ASSEMBLY*
Using three hinges for each panel, fasten them inside to the hut. To maintain an even height, keep the front and back panels flush with the bottom of the floor. They fold with the hut (see diagram E). 
The framework can now be erected and the ridge pole put in place on top (see diagram I below). For added strength and comfort, two more ridge poles can be added at the side, giving the angler a place to lean back and have a shelf in front of him/her. 
With the frame erected, apply the canvas or tarp (see diagram I below). You might need a helping hand. If you wish, you can staple every 3" to 4" on the side panels and floor. A 3" or 4" plywood security strip on the front and back panels adds durability and strength. Now, cut openings in the plywood floor to the size of the auger hole you intend to use. I prefer to make a 10" x 14" hinged rectangular opening and use a small barrel bolt to hold it closed. This prevents snow from entering while transporting the hut behind a snowmobile. The basic hut is now finished. A coat of paint, stain, or varnish on wooden parts helps preserve them.








*ICE FISHING HUT TRANSPORTATION*
To transport the hut, just remove the ridge pole(s), fold the front panel, and then the back panel over the front panel (see diagram D below). A small propane heater keeps the inside of the hut amazingly warm especially if snow is banked up around the outside. Seating can be folding chairs or stools. 
Materials cost $100 to $200, depending on the quality of the covering and plywood you use. The hut is designed for years, so the initial cost of quality products is well justified.



I copied and pasted these plans to share, tweak them for you own needs.


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

Those are pretty cool. I've been kicking around the idea of making one of them for a while now.


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## Flag Up (Feb 15, 2009)

Thanks for posting. I have seen this before and was told you can make it as long or as short as you want.


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## reflexshooter (Jan 14, 2009)

I used the complete 4'x8' for the floor and hinged it in the center. Works pretty well. Keeps your feet up off of the ice while fishing. I bought "heavy duty" tarp @ tractor supply (black on one side and silver on the other) put the black side out for visibility and solar heating (going green!). Then built my own runners and placed them on the end away from the door.

Mine is a prototype using 1/2" osb for the wood. We'll see how it holds up.

And I don't consider myself a "do-it-yourselfer" but I am a confirmed cheapskate!


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

Flag Up said:


> Thanks for posting. I have seen this before and was told you can make it as long or as short as you want.


That's what it looks like to me. I'm going to make it short enough to fit in the back of my exploder when the seats are folded down.


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