# Starting a beaver line..or 2



## wetwork (Nov 21, 2009)

Okay guys, I've pretty much decided that beaver will be my first attempt at trapping. I have two totally different areas, and would like some advice on how to set.:help:

My first is a river (Sturgeon in Cheboygan Co. if you are familiar), quick running, 10-20 ft wide, and some deep holes with much slower water. I know where they are, and pretty sure on how they are travelling over land, to do their cutting. Are there some good threads with pics/video on river trapping beaver? They try to dam, but the current is too strong, all lodge/hut entrances are in the banks. Steep/sheer/undercut and deep water, I would need to access with my canoe. I have a personal vendetta against these beaver, as they are prone to ruin my trout fishing with all of their tail slapping.

The second is a small lake. Shallow, silty bottom, with a (man made) dam/spillway at one end. I just scouted this place today, and was kind of pressed for time. What I did find was a lot of fresh cut popple, and the travel route to and from. I also saw what I think is the lodge about 20 yds. off shore. I will have to go back with the canoe to confirm.

Finally, I have been trap shopping online (F&T) and was wondering are the Victor 330's worth the extra money? I'm gonna start with a dozen, so the upgrade(?) is quite a bit verses the Duke's.

Sorry for the lack of detail, any advice on these is greatly appreciated. 
wetwork


----------



## SNAREMAN (Dec 10, 2006)

Castor mounds (330s and or foot-holds if water is deep enough)Also bait sets and blind sets (Slides/trails,runs ect..)Stay away from lodge/den to help avoid kits.


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Castor mounds are what beaver use to mark their territory. Block them really well, by using sticks in a fence arrangement so there is only one way to get to it. They will charge it and get caught, it's also good to have a dive stick so they go under water to get caught. Have the trap submerged and preferably up stream of where you want to catch them, at a place where they may climb out.
You can join Trapperman.com and look in the water trapping archives for good pictures.
I never used Victors, but have had no problems with the Dukes.


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Here's a good picture, credits to Jtrapper


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Crude but will probably work


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

I like this location, some of the above were really good too


----------



## Mister ED (Apr 3, 2006)

Holy Cow!! I had not priced 330s in a long while!! That is a HUGE price difference. $100 between the Vics and the reg Duke 330. The one thing I don't like about the newer Duke 330 is they are 10x9 ... maybe I am just being stubborn.

I think if I were to buy some 330s, I'd look at the Bridger 330's. Never used one, but I typically like what I see from the other Bridger traps. And they are a compromise (price wise) between the Dukes and Vics. IMHO, when you get a beaver in any of them ... the beaver will be dead ... and dead is dead.

IMHO, a dozen 330s is a bunch to start with (granted I do not use many). Just another thought would be to go with the following:

8 Duke or Bridger 330's
2-4 Duke #5 DLS or MB750
1-2 MB 1216 JC Body Grip
BodyGrip Saftey!!!!!!!

The 1216s are sweet, with a larger opening for those beavers that may not like to be crowded into the 10x10 or 10x9 opening (Connie Shy). And they were designed by one of our humble contributors. If you bought two of those ... I'd even cut back on the 330's ... your going to use them the same.

Others may disagree with me, but I like footholds. So a couple of them would give you a little more exposure and maybe a little more versitility (where there is enough water to drowned the beav). MB's are nice and compact ... but I generally grab the DLS. I have Bridgers #5s and they are nice, but I swop out the pan. I bought and used some Duke #5s this year ... and I like them. Springs appear good and they already come with the PiT pan system (which is what I swop onto the Bridgers).

I did not add it all up ... but I'm sure you could tweak the list above to get you at or under the cost of the dozen Vic 330's ... and you'd have a little more variety.

If you get the footholds ... your also going to want some heavy wire for the slide wires (and for anchoring your body grips). I use cable ... but the HEAVY wire will work (can't remember the gauge).

Man .... its easy to make a shopping list when it is not your money.:lol:


----------



## daoejo22 (May 7, 2009)

All I have ever used are Duke 330, sometimes they don't even move the limbs I use for blocking. For the most part beaver are easy to trap (Like a giant muskrat) look for their runs and pullouts, or use a castor mound. But if ya hit a colony and take all but an old one, they will make you scratch your head and cuss ALOT! LOL. Good luck and have fun.


----------



## Mister ED (Apr 3, 2006)

The 1216's if set in some of the pics Freepop posted, would also eliminate some of the blocking. The trap itself would cover the area better.


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

You can catch a lot of animals with just a dozen 330s, I think there is a price break level for that.


----------



## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

I am not a duke fan for most coni's but I don't mind their 330's. Yeah they are 10X9, but I have taken many beaver with the one duke that I have. it is powerful and a lot cheaper then the others. For the price difference I would buy the dukes over victors if I were buying. None of the beaver I have taken with it have minded the 10X9 frame. I don't like duke 280's but the 330's are fine. 

I too like Ed like footholds as well, but not the newer ones so much. I grew up trapping with #4 longsprings and jumps in #3 and 4. Those traps well placed will produce like any other. They are a lot cheaper to buy as well. Either way you go if it is placed right you will do just fine. Like mentioned they are easy to trap unless you educate them. OT


----------



## wetwork (Nov 21, 2009)

Thanks guys....I'll digest this, and more I'm sure, as I do some more scouting. I'm liking the variety thing on the traps, as I do NOT have an unlimited budget! Last I checked, I was not yet approved at trapperman, but I will continue to look here/there and elsewhere. I'm anxious to get started. Homework is fun, but nothing beats a good hands on lesson. So be prepared for more questions, as I (hopefully) progress!

Wayne


----------



## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Trapperman can take a couple days sometimes.

Good luck and post pics


----------



## lang49 (Aug 1, 2005)

In my opinion, the safeties on dukes or victors are complete junk. Spend a little more money on Belisles, you won't be sorry.

Plus, the Belisles close completely whereas the Victors or dukes closed still have a good 3/4" gap. Though it is rare (and not preferred) the belisle can actually hold a beaver by a leg or foot.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Fur-minator (Nov 28, 2007)

lang49 said:


> In my opinion, the safeties on dukes or victors are complete junk. Spend a little more money on Belisles, you won't be sorry.
> 
> Plus, the Belisles close completely whereas the Victors or dukes closed still have a good 3/4" gap. Though it is rare (and not preferred) the *belisle can actually hold a beaver by a leg or foot.*
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
So can the MB-1216.:evilsmile


----------

