# Licensed builder answering questions!!!



## outdoor junkie (Sep 16, 2003)

Who isn't a licensed builder now a days? Oh yeah, all the slobs that undercut my prices, by not having to carry insurances. Nevermind.


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## Firemedic (Apr 5, 2005)

jpollman said:


> One hour each of code, law, and *safety*.


 
Were you still at lunch when they did the ladder safety portion on the CE's??? 

I had to get you back for all the axe remarks........:lol:


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## chipdog (Nov 30, 2010)

well i have seriously enjoyed the remarks on here about my post. i am glad everyone has a good outlook!!! anyways deerslayerIII had a great question although i have an idea of what you are talking about i still am not sure. do you mean when you say "foam stepped junk" the proper vents that are located in the eve ends seperating the insulation from the roof sheeting. those provide adequate ventillation for your roofing plywood and shingles so the plywood dosent delaminate and rot the shingles. i would recommend you add more insulation, possibly get a radiant barrier paint for the interior walls and or get some of the energy saving shingles. if that is not what you were talking about mabyee send a pic or 2, or explain in a little more detail. anyways any other thoughts are welecome from other builders as well!!



buckslayerII said:


> The second story in my cape cod style home has a 4 ft (or so) run of cathedral ceiling. When it was built, the insulation in this area was not done well and I lose heat, thus causing plenty of ice on my eaves. (The unheated space is longer than typical with the knee walls upstairs as well) The builder used that foam stepped junk to keep the insulation away from the underside of the roof sheating. That has collapsed in many areas. Even if everything was perfect, there's still a direct route for heat to conduct through the drywall, through the roof truss and to the sheating.
> 
> Any ideas on a remedy? I've got some, but wonder what the folks who do this for a living suggest?
> 
> Thanks


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## Big Reds (Oct 14, 2007)

I, for one, like the "so called builders" around my business. 
A large part of the building business we generate is removing and rebuilding (correctly) after these guys get tossed out by the homeowner!

It's always good to hear a homeowner state, "I should have called you in the first place.... it would have been A LOT cheaper than doing it twice". " We will call on you and recommend your company from now on".
Yeah.... makes it all worth it.


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## chipdog (Nov 30, 2010)

Ditto!!



jpollman said:


> ahh i see. I read it but didn't get what you were saying. I've had my license for about fifteen years and when i first got it, once you had it as long as you paid your fee every two years you were licensed. They just started the continuing education requirement though.
> 
> I do know what you're saying though. The three hours isn't much, but at least it's _something_. Before that, all you had to do is pass the test and you were licensed for life. There is some validity to the post that celtic archer made but it doesn't necessarily mean that no builders have a clue. There are good and knowledgeable builders out there!
> 
> John


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Firemedic said:


> Were you still at lunch when they did the ladder safety portion on the CE's???
> 
> I had to get you back for all the axe remarks........:lol:


You must have missed a portion of one of my replies. I haven't yet gotten my CE requirement done yet for this year. I guess if I had already, maybe I wouldn't be in the pickle that I am now. :lol:

John


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## chipdog (Nov 30, 2010)

dont feel bad i havent got mine yet either



jpollman said:


> You must have missed a portion of one of my replies. I haven't yet gotten my CE requirement done yet for this year. I guess if I had already, maybe I wouldn't be in the pickle that I am now. :lol:
> 
> John


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## -Axiom- (Jul 24, 2010)

buckslayerII said:


> The second story in my cape cod style home has a 4 ft (or so) run of cathedral ceiling. When it was built, the insulation in this area was not done well and I lose heat, thus causing plenty of ice on my eaves. (The unheated space is longer than typical with the knee walls upstairs as well) The builder used that foam stepped junk to keep the insulation away from the underside of the roof sheating. That has collapsed in many areas. Even if everything was perfect, there's still a direct route for heat to conduct through the drywall, through the roof truss and to the sheating.
> 
> Any ideas on a remedy? I've got some, but wonder what the folks who do this for a living suggest?
> 
> Thanks



We fix that by removing the roof deck and installing rafter baffles and insulation as needed.
In the case of a vaulted or cathedral ceiling the rafter baffles need to go from the eave to the peak/ridge.
After that is done we provide intake ventilation (normally through the soffits) and install ridge vents.

This will solve ice damming problems the majority of the time but in some cases we need to be a bit more creative.

This issue can also be addressed by using spray in foam insulation but the foam is a vapor barrier and if not properly done can lead to mold growth.

Yours is a common issue and relatively expensive to correctly fix.
People frequently try to band aid the problem in various ways in an attempt to avoid the expense of a proper fix.
One of the most popular band aids is heat cables, they don't really work very well in our climate and they have a way of moving the issue to other parts of the roof.


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## chipdog (Nov 30, 2010)

yes that makes sense and it is the proper way, i agree!



-Axiom- said:


> We fix that by removing the roof deck and installing rafter baffles and insulation as needed.
> In the case of a vaulted or cathedral ceiling the rafter baffles need to go from the eave to the peak/ridge.
> After that is done we provide intake ventilation (normally through the soffits) and install ridge vents.
> 
> ...


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## Rumajz (Dec 29, 2005)

Big Reds said:


> I, for one, like the "so called builders" around my business.
> A large part of the building business we generate is removing and rebuilding (correctly) after these guys get tossed out by the homeowner!
> 
> It's always good to hear a homeowner state, "I should have called you in the first place.... it would have been A LOT cheaper than doing it twice". " We will call on you and recommend your company from now on".
> Yeah.... makes it all worth it.



Oh yeah, I remember that feeling. I did often feel bad for the clients who got screwed but really "enjoyed" everything else about these type of jobs.


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## Scott K (Aug 26, 2008)

We have a vaulted (or is it cathedral? I forget the difference). Anyways, right along the peak, the plaster is cracked from one end to the other. I've patched it a few times but the crack comes back. Is there a permanent fix or do I have to live with it?


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## Robow (Dec 2, 2001)

ih772 said:


> Ok, i'll bite. What in the heck is this? There are about a half dozen of them in my poured concrete basement wall.


They are wall ties. Used to hold the concrete forms together when pouring the walls. Should pop off with a wack or two from a hammer.


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## -Axiom- (Jul 24, 2010)

Scott K said:


> We have a vaulted (or is it cathedral? I forget the difference). Anyways, right along the peak, the plaster is cracked from one end to the other. I've patched it a few times but the crack comes back. Is there a permanent fix or do I have to live with it?


 Do have any idea as to what is causing the cracking?
Is it actual plaster & lath or is your ceiling drywall?
The cause of the problem has to be isolated before a repair can be determined.


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## Scott K (Aug 26, 2008)

-Axiom- said:


> Do have any idea as to what is causing the cracking?
> Is it actual plaster & lath or is your ceiling drywall?
> The cause of the problem has to be isolated before a repair can be determined.


It's drywall. It's cracking right where the drywall meets at the peak.


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## chipdog (Nov 30, 2010)

it sounds structural to me.
example: your framing is too weak and it is allowing the drywall seam to move with the expansion and contraction of the home in hot, humid, or cold conditions. a possible remedy would be to get a good quality tape and re-tape and mud the area. it would make perfect sense to have a professional do this because i am sure he could make it straight and mabyee have a different idea after looking at it.




Scott K said:


> It's drywall. It's cracking right where the drywall meets at the peak.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

I don't know if you want to try this or not, but this would be my suggestion. Check into getting some "Krack-Kote". It's designed to solve just the problem that you're having. I've never used it myself, but it's been around for a while and is supposed to be good stuff. Here's a link...

http://www.tkocoatings.com/krack-kote.html

Good luck!

John


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## buckslayerII (Jan 4, 2005)

Guys - thanks for the responses.

Raffle baffles would be the correct term:lol: I've got those under the sheating, although the cheap foam ones have collapsed somewhat, and then there's (I think) only 3 1/2" of fiberglass insulation. It doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

One builder mentioned "getting creative" - ideas?

Another mentioned radiant barrier paint - never heard of that - sounds interesting - normal paint stores carry? How well does it work? Typical brush/roller application?


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## Celtic Archer (Nov 16, 2009)

Liver and Onions said:


> Any reason not to get your own Builders License so you wouldn't have to work for those other guys ?
> 
> L & O


I've had my license for over 10 yrs.
I'm just saying having one doesn't make one a expert in the field. They used to be very easy to get, just pass the test and pay your fee.
With the new requirements to get a license things may change. Their used to be companies out there that would refund the fee of their builders class to you if you didn't pass the test.


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## RMH (Jan 17, 2009)

buckslayerII said:


> Guys - thanks for the responses.
> 
> Raffle baffles would be the correct term:lol: I've got those under the sheating, although the cheap foam ones have collapsed somewhat, and then there's (I think) only 3 1/2" of fiberglass insulation. It doesn't seem to be doing the trick.
> 
> ...


Cellulose insulation, proper ventilation installed by a top notch insulation contractor.


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## ih772 (Jan 28, 2003)

Robow said:


> They are wall ties. Used to hold the concrete forms together when pouring the walls. Should pop off with a wack or two from a hammer.


I always wondered what they were. There's only one part of one wall in my basement that has a few of them. I wonder why they were never removed?


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