# Hydroseed or Broadcast Seeding



## goodworkstractors (Aug 7, 2007)

We're building a house that would be done in May or June. We will have underground sprinkling. Full sun, about 3/4 acre of seeded area. I want to establish a nice, lush lawn.

Six months ago I was debating hydroseed vs sod. I ruled out sod simply because of the cost. Well a few other points as well, but cost was the driving factor.

Preliminary quotes are $3,-4,000 to hydroseed. I know I could seed and straw for much, much cheaper than that. Will I be happy with the results of broadcasting?

Soil prep, fertilizer, time of year all play a role. Looking for the good or bad for each option though.


----------



## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

Both will get you same results. If you can afford it and don't have the time Hydroseed is simply far easier from an application standpoint.

If you have the time and wherewithal, and want to save the money, broadcasting will get you a nice lush lawn as well. 

I did my last lawn, broadcast completely by hand with kentucky bluegrass seed from an exchange (per recommendation of a guy who owned and still runs his landscaping business for 30+ years). Granted I had a very small lot. I used a hand spreader, broadcast liberally (even going over it twice in some places), broadcast seed starter fertilizer (can't rememeber which, but was bought at family farm and home), then rolled everything with a hand-roller rented from home depot and put hay down over everything. This was May. By end of June it was very lush and full. Did have some issues with some weeds establishing but mostly my neighbors fault and nothing a hand sprayer didn't fix. After it was established I used triple12 (12-12-12) a couple of times and the grass itself grew like a weed. After that I only cut it normally and fertilized a few times throughout the year. Excluding topsoil I probably spent a couple hundred bucks between seed, fertizilier, straw, and equipment. No idea how much it would have cost to hydro seed but i'm sure it wouldn't even compare.


----------



## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

I did that stuff for years. Here's my opinion.

Hydro is a good option as long as it never drys out. Meaning you will need to run your irrigation at least 4 cycles a day until it's established. The reason for this is that the seed is suspended in paper mulch, and the roots tend to stay in that mulch for a few weeks. Good stuff for erosion areas, but has a high failure rate if your not committed.

Seed and straw is probably the best option. But again preparation and water are key.

Be sure you start with a loose seed bed. Often the soil gets compacted during spreading. Try to get an consistant spread of seed and straw, and Ideally it should be rolled afterwards.

It's a good idea to add 20% or so of annual rye grass to your seed mix. It grows fast and will stabilize the seed bed. It dies out as the blues and fescues become established. 

So what would I do....seed and straw done right is still the best method. But both will work if you are committed. Don't ever let it dry out until well established.


----------



## goodworkstractors (Aug 7, 2007)

Good stuff guys. I'm considering going 1.25-1.5 times the recommended new lawn seeding rate. I want it thick and lush. Is this overkill or am I better served going at max rate and then overseeding later?

My biggest concern is soil prep. It's been years and years, but we used to use an attachment on the front of a Bobcat to pulverize, evenly distributed, final prep before seeding. Maybe a Power Rake? It was a pretty cool tool and seemed to produce a great seed bed.


----------



## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

Either one will work so long as you have an inch or so of loose soil.

As far as extra seed short term it will look good. Long term it really don't matter. Pay attention to the seed mix you are using, if your mixing your own great, if your using a pre-mix it will probably have rye grass already in it. In which case you may want to bump the blues and fescues. A soil test and are also a good idea. 

And if you can try to get a good idea of what grows best in your area. Golf course owners/ groundskeepers are a great source.


----------



## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

cscott711 said:


> Good stuff guys. I'm considering going 1.25-1.5 times the recommended new lawn seeding rate. I want it thick and lush. Is this overkill or am I better served going at max rate and then overseeding later?
> 
> My biggest concern is soil prep. It's been years and years, but we used to use an attachment on the front of a Bobcat to pulverize, evenly distributed, final prep before seeding. Maybe a Power Rake? It was a pretty cool tool and seemed to produce a great seed bed.


There's no disadvantage to putting on more seed initially that i'm aware of. Through my own trial and error i'd err on the side more seed than not lest you want weeds to aggressively start sprouting up and choking out your grass.


----------



## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

d_rek said:


> There's no disadvantage to putting on more seed initially that i'm aware of. Through my own trial and error i'd err on the side more seed than not lest you want weeds to aggressively start sprouting up and choking out your grass.


It's just money.


----------



## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

d_rek said:


> There's no disadvantage to putting on more seed initially that i'm aware of. Through my own trial and error i'd err on the side more seed than not lest you want weeds to aggressively start sprouting up and choking out your grass.


I would say it is money well spent to apply a bit more seed than the recommended amount. It will still be a LOT cheaper than paying for hydro-seeding, and your results will be better. I've done double applications before, and never regretted it. And, once that seed is down, make sure you fertilize it pretty regularly until it is strong, and established. Do not fertilize during hot dry weather.


----------



## caseyj (Apr 8, 2001)

A straw cover is meant to hold the seed in place until it roots. Even then the earth has to be aerated so that the new roots can reach into the soil for growth. Ideally, it is best to cover the new seed with a 1" top soil and than keep it wet during its growth period. 10 to 14 days depending on the type of seed. I like to mix annual or permanent rye grass into the mix as both will germinate in a short period of time.


----------



## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

caseyj said:


> A straw cover is meant to hold the seed in place until it roots. Even then the earth has to be aerated so that the new roots can reach into the soil for growth. Ideally, it is best to cover the new seed with a 1" top soil and than keep it wet during its growth period. 10 to 14 days depending on the type of seed. I like to mix annual or permanent rye grass into the mix as both will germinate in a short period of time.


I would say 1/4" of soil on top of fresh seed is perfect. 1" of soil covering the seed will result in much lower sprouting. I don't even cover grass seed a lot of times, and when I do it is mostly to keep birds off of it. I would think a light application of fertilizer about every 3 weeks would help fresh grass grow strong and thick quickly. Heavy applications of fertilizer are wasteful, and do not produce better results.


----------



## ken powell (Sep 16, 2008)

Don't skimp on who you get straw from. You will be planting weeds with your grass.


----------



## Jet08 (Aug 21, 2007)

Have you considered using a no-till grass seed drill? I know this is generally used for larger applications, but I planted my grass this way last year at our new construction home and was very happy with the results.

If you contact your local conservation district or pheasants forever they will more then likely have one you can use or rent (generally used for upland habitat install).


----------



## Schnitzel (Jan 24, 2016)

I would consider waiting until mid to late August to do any seeding for a couple of reasons. After germination, temperatures in late Aug. and September are more ideal for establishment with somewhat cooler nights and moderate high temps. You will not have to baby seedlings during the heat and humidity of July this way. The majority of summer annual weeds will have run there course by this time and will not be as much of a headache if you seed in May or June. 

I am in agreement with most in that loosening the surface prior to seeding is very important. Remove any rocks and ammend the soil if needed with compost or topsoil. After seeding, rolling is crucial. Seed to soil contact is probably an overlooked factor in the success of germinating seed. If I had to choose between rolling after seeding and covering with straw, I would roll.

Finally, I would not apply much more seed than recommended. These rates are found by seed companies and university research and will give you the best end result with proper fertility and other management strategies. In my experience, seeding too heavy usually results in a poorer stand of turf in the long run. Keep in mind that if you go with a bluegrass, the turf will spread via rhizomes and fill in any thin areas. You could always visit the MSU or Purdue agronomy/ turf science websites for some tips also.


----------



## Joshmack (Mar 4, 2013)

A Drill from conservation district would be ideal! If seeding by hand I've found improved coverage by seeding half east/west and half north/south. Soil test from local fertilizer supplier is a good investment IMHO. Follow their recommendations for your soil. A well prepared firm seedbed with good seed to ground contact will lead to a great lawn. Irrigation allows for a larger planting window but don't overdue it...deep root growth will make for a healthy lawn.


----------



## goodworkstractors (Aug 7, 2007)

Forgot about slit seeding. That could be a great option. I think of that more for overseeding, but no reason it shouldn't work to establish a new lawn. Complete seed to soil contact, minimize washaways, and no need for straw. 

I'm liking this idea.


----------



## joe dirt (Jul 3, 2010)

swampbuck said:


> I did that stuff for years. Here's my opinion.
> 
> Hydro is a good option as long as it never drys out. Meaning you will need to run your irrigation at least 4 cycles a day until it's established. The reason for this is that the seed is suspended in paper mulch, and the roots tend to stay in that mulch for a few weeks. Good stuff for erosion areas, but has a high failure rate if your not committed.
> 
> ...



This. People spray seed and think just because there's water in it its good. Not the case. Your have irrigation so u will be ok if watered correctly. Also do this for a living and seen seed sprayed in mid spring and not even the rye had germinated two months later because of no water. It turns into sort of a cardboard once it dries up. Broadcast, scratch in either with a rake or some sort of drag behind a tractor or quad, and cover with straw blanket. Cuts down on water and you will usually see the rye popping in just a couple of days.


----------

