# Clover Mowing Schedule



## johnhunter (Jun 17, 2000)

I know, there's different theories of clover mowing. The ambitious fellas swear by mowing it every few weeks to keep getting tender new growth. Probably the same guys that mow their lawns every three days, always edge, pick up the clippings, etc. 

I seem to recall one expert from this state who recommended only mowing twice per season. He felt that it was important for the plants to "play out their life cycle", by producing flowers and going to seed, before mowing. 

I know my clover plots look pretty darn long and tall, and I wouldn't mind getting at them, as much to control those annual weeds as anything. But, last I looked, not much flowering had gone on.

Opinions?


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## BEARKILL (May 2, 2001)

I planted whitetale clover and on the back of the bag it recomends to mow it two times a year. I think it said once in july and then again in september. I did this and it stayed good for four years. Always broadcasted fert in spring and fall to help out. Put some LAB LAB in this year but not to impressed. Looks like more weeds then anything. This darn rain.

bearkill


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## Swamp Ghost (Feb 5, 2003)

With all this rain, I won't be able to mow until Aug.!


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## back40 (Dec 3, 2000)

stick to mowing on the holidays...

Memorial day
Fourth of July
Labor Day

I learned that from my dad, seemed to work for me.


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## Guest (May 23, 2004)

A book could be written on this subject. Yes I also advise to mow twice a year and for many reasons. My choice of dates also is chosen for a reason.

Some plants should not be mowed more than three times due to it not being able to regrow sufficiently for survival. Example, regular alfalfa and tall growing red clover like Canadian mammoth red clover cannot take a hit from repeated mowings. You can cut it's life cycle in half. The height of mowing is important, keep it at 4-6 inches high. Grazing type alfalfa, like Imperial whitetail, alfagraze and amerigraze can take more hits from mowing, also clover like ladino ,medium red, white clover and alsike can take more than two mowings, for these plants grows many stems from its base, not like normal hay type alfalfa which grows a single stem then branhes out like a tree.

The average fawn birting date is around June 1st. Fawns will eat the same forage as mom within two weeks of birth, therefore I recommend the first mowing to be June 1st. F.L. is correct about the theory that all plants (animals also) need to go thru a cycle of life and this encourages longivity. This cycle of budding, blossoming, setting seed and allowing it to develop mature seeds adds to the longivity of the plant. Why mow repeatedly, when all you are doing is preventing that plant from adding free seed onto the soil surface? The second mowing is at least 45 days (the length of time it takes for a legumes cycle of life) after the first mowing. I suggest August 1st (60 days) to allow for natures inconsistant ways. You can elect to make it the end of August providing you do not do the mowing anytime in September. September is the month when all plants are sending the nutrients within its leaves and small stems into its root system for that all important next spring green up. 

The first mowing is for the deer the second one is for you. Why mow more when it isn't necessary, and may hurt the plant in the long run? I know, I know it looks mighty purty when you mow it often. 

Take it from an old farmer who has gone thru the trials and tribulations of growing much hay for livestock and many hundreds of legume food plots, mow twice and mow it in a timly fashion. Fertilize it at least twice and fertilize it according to the soil test. I fertlize twice, deer legume maintenance feed plots, and three times, deer legume attractant food plots. For deer maintenance legume plots I broadcast 200 lbs of 6-24-24 as early as I can get out onto the plot (April 1st- May 1st). The second broadcasting of fertilizer is 200 lbs of the same stuff and remember the soil has been corrected. If not follow the soil test recommendation and add a little urea 46-0-0 even though the experts advise you not to.

For my hunting spots I treat them with a bit more attention. Remember that's where we want the deer to appear and if you are near other food plots put in by neighbors or farmers with their late August mowed alfalfa fields you got competition. This is not a big thing,but with many experiments I find it helps. Same 200 lbs of 6-24-24 in early spring, followed with 200 lbs of 0-20-30 (or as close as you can get to 0-20-30) the first of August. The zero amount of nitrigen is to encourage the legume to produce its own nitrogen as the experts advise. However you are about to commit a mortal sin doing the following.

For all legume plots used for hunting sites, broadcast 50 lbs of urea 46-0-0 per acre two weeks prior to the bow opener. In Michigan it's September the 15th. If the legume plot has a partner like wheat, oats, rape growing with it, make it 100 lbs of urea per acre. Like I said it's no big thing but it helps and that may be the differance in your success or zippo. You will note a differance in the plots extra green color and a burst of forage growth. 

You don't believe me, I can tell by that look in your eye. OK, experiment on your own with a plot with normal fertilization on half and the now known QDM secret method the other half. Just don't tell your neighbors the secret after his deer all run into your property.

Keep the fun in hunting!


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## Jeff Sturgis (Mar 28, 2002)

Ed,

What about some of us up here in the U.P. that have much shorter growing seasons. My established clover stands are around 4-5" right now, and it's been a pretty cold, slow spring. June 1st of course seems too close, and in the past I've mowed closer to mid to late June/July. If I don't mow until the first of July, would a mid-August mowing even be appropriate considering dormancy and colder months set in much earlier up here?

Also, if I was just going to mow once each year should I just let the budding cycle be my guide and mow after the seeds are set and appear mature?


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## mike hartges (Jun 9, 2003)

I'm one of those guys that likes to mow every few weeks. I already mowed the clover field once. I didn't actually cut any clover, just the taller weeds. When the clover goes to seed, I hold off on the mowing so the seeds can mature. My clover field is in its 11th growing season. The clover is now at least 1 foot tall and I didn't even get around to fertilizing it this year. I have a question for those that only mow their clover twice a year. What do you do with your clippings? Do you bale them? I feel that I would smother lots of my clover if I let the clippings lie on the ground.


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## johnhunter (Jun 17, 2000)

If you remove the clippings, you are also removing all of the nutrients, minerals, etc. included in them, that left alone, will re-enter your food plot soil as they de-compose. Yeah, it temporarily covers up some clover, but it is temporary.

FWIW, I don't bag the grass clippings on my lawn at home either.


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## Guest (May 24, 2004)

Jeff:

One mowing after the seeds have matured is fine. A finer practice would be to still hit it twice,with the second mowing in your area close to September 1st, (no later).

Mike, F.L. knows his stuff. By all means leave it on the field it will find it,s way to the sun. I have when the clover is tall because I waited too long is mow it twice, with the first mowing set at 12 inches high and the second at 6 inches. congratulations on a long living clover field. I too have clover fields at that age and do not intend to till it under ever, just spray round up in mid May, when it starts to look shabby, overseed a bit of the same clover mix, add a little Biologic Maximum and watch it come back as thick as Ben Wallace's hair.

Keep the fun in hunting!


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## mike hartges (Jun 9, 2003)

Thanks for your input guys. Another reason I mow is because of the nice bucks that are attracted to my property from the smell of the freshly mowed clover. Ed, one more note: last year I sprayed 1/2 of my clover field with Roundup in early May. This year, that section of the clover field had hardly any dandelions in it where the rest of the field had lots of them. Of course we had adequate rainfall after I sprayed the Roundup. Thanks for all the tips.


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## bishs (Aug 30, 2000)

I wonder why I even plant clover. The brothers that owned my land, used it as a berry farm. My guess is that they grew a lot of clover also. Every time I disturb or cut an area, it fills with clover. I have a 1/2 acre field that I sprayed with roundup last year, later I noticed clover coming up all over, so I left it alone. Now I have a lush field of white and aslike clover. Two years ago I had a 20 foot wide, 9 feet deep by 700 foot dike dug for fill dirt. I left a couple access lanes across the dike, to funnel deer, and tractor access. I was concerned about erosion on the banks, but not anymore, the clover has grown all the way down the banks to the water edge.


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## answerguy8 (Oct 15, 2001)

I'm finding that same thing happening on my 'farm'. Whenever I move dirt around clover comes up like gang busters. Anything special I should do with this?


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## mike hartges (Jun 9, 2003)

I have found that certain areas on our property are naturals for growing clover. One spot that I used to brush hog has been mowed with the Craftsman riding mower the past 2 years(courtesy of my wife) and the clover has taken over. The deer are very attracted to this spot.


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## Guest (May 25, 2004)

Ah yes; clover, clover everwhere but not a seed did I plant. If your soil is acceptable, just driving your car through a field will suppress the grass and up pops clover. Mowing works great as does spraying a contact herbicide. 

You have heard it here from me and others, that a good clover plot can be maintained forever without an ounce of tillage. Let it set seed and mature. The seeds may lay dormant for years and when conditions or a disturbance minimizes the competition up pops the clover. The winds also play a major role in distributing the seeds, 

You would think that clover would grow forever in a cow pasture, but it dosen't, for cattle will not let it grow to seed. After several years of eliminating the clover seed making process, the clover disappears. Michigan State started the begining of frost seeding red clover in worn out pastures to replenish the clover content many years ago. Thanks to our agricultural colleges for the knowledge they have given us.

Keep the fun in hunting!


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