# Insulate Basement Walls



## bobcolenso (Sep 11, 2003)

My mancave is a 10 x 12 ish corner of the basement that has two exterior poured concrete walls. It gets cold down here in the winter and I have to use an insulated coffee cup.

I would like to insulate the walls but to do so I would have to completely disassemble and remove two benches full of electronic test equipment, parts, and such. Then I found this stuff here... https://www.insulation4less.com/insulation/prodex/white-prodex-total-insulation-5M

Can I through up some 1" furring strips (air gap) or something and staple this on? It's 1/4" thick, and I should be able to do that without having to move anything?

Thanks.
.


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## Bucman (Jun 29, 2016)

Why not it sounds like that will help.


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## Quack Addict (Aug 10, 2006)

Anything will help but I'm a firm believer in doing things right the first time. Anything worth doing is worth over-doing instead of incrementally polishing a turd hoping to turn it to gold with minimal effort. If that requires moving electronic equipment and benches around, so be it.

I have seen but never worked with the product you posted. Big box hardware stores and lumber yards sell similar products in rigid 4x8 sheet form that may be easier to deal with on flat surfaces like poured walls. The product you're referencing is malleable foam (like shipping foam) and I'd be worried about it peeling back or bubbling up, then looking bad and needing rework. The 4x8 sheet foam won't do that.

A simple air gap like drywall over 2x3 or 2x4 studs will add quite a bit of R value.


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## MEL (Jul 17, 2005)

I’m with Quack Addict here. Do yourself a favor and do it right. Use foam insulation either sprayed on or in sheets 4x8 use the pink or the blue (owens Corning or Dow) but first make sure all your rim joists are properly sealed and insulated. Insulating basement walls with out making the rims joist air tight is pointless. 
Not a fan of the foil/radiant barrier in this application. Better in attics and better in warm climates to keep heat out (think Arizona in summer). It works well as a radiant barrier not so good as a true insulating material.


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## Wasman2. (Jan 13, 2018)

Maybe it's a good time to remodel and in doing so, insulate the proper way. I can understand the pain of moving stuff but ... Doing right the first time pays off in the long run.


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## CrawlerHarness (Dec 9, 2017)

This type of material is good for garages and sheds....so why not for the basement. Just have to figure out how you want the area to look. Maybe the 5M up against the wall with 1/4" furring strips....and then some type of board to cover it all. 

The reflectix bubble wrap insulation is also pretty good. I sell the adhesive for that stuff......it won't come apart. trust me as I have been using it for a slip and slide for 6 years now with no issues.


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## jjlrrw (May 1, 2006)

Interesting, that's a high R value based on the thickness.


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## Chasin Tales (Jan 20, 2006)

Not knowing how finished your room is. I believe they can drill a hole and then spray foam the walls.


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## RHRoss (Dec 5, 2020)

You wont notice any real difference, save yourself the costs and get a nice space heater instead


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## Nostromo (Feb 14, 2012)

Just get a better heat source. Radiant perhaps.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

Heat won't shrink the size of the room either.


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## Zofchak (Jan 10, 2003)

That's a decent product for keeping radiant heat out (Such as on the attic or upper areas of a shed, bar or garage), but it would be nearly pointless in a basement and it won't offer anywhere near the R value in that setting. Do you have any room next to your workbench? If so, you could cut sheet foam products into narrower strips and slide them behind the work bench (Glue them together as you go). I'd go that route or bite the bullet and move the bench.


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## LGB (9 mo ago)

I think 2x2 studs and 2" foam board is the best option for insulating and keeping the dimensions close to the same size. Cover the foam and studs with a paneling of some type after insulating if desired.


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## MEL (Jul 17, 2005)

jjlrrw said:


> Interesting, that's a high R value based on the thickness.


If it sounds to good to be true…………. An R value of 5 for 1/4” when rigid foam or closed cell spray foam is R 5 for 1”. The R value they claim is when used as a radiant barrier. As we all know yes it would be fine as a radiant barrier in Arizona in July. Probably work fine then and there.


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## MEL (Jul 17, 2005)

Zofchak said:


> That's a decent product for keeping radiant heat out (Such as on the attic or upper areas of a shed, bar or garage), but it would be nearly pointless in a basement and it won't offer anywhere near the R value in that setting. Do you have any room next to your workbench? If so, you could cut sheet foam products into narrower strips and slide them behind the work bench (Glue them together as you go). I'd go that route or bite the bullet and move the bench.


Agree 100%


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## jjlrrw (May 1, 2006)

MEL said:


> If it sounds to good to be true…………. An R value of 5 for 1/4” when rigid foam or closed cell spray foam is R 5 for 1”. The R value they claim is when used as a radiant barrier. As we all know yes it would be fine as a radiant barrier in Arizona in July. Probably work fine then and there.


That is what I was thinking I put fanfold on the cabin prior to siding this year and that was 1/4" with an R value of 1.0 or 1.5


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## Quack Addict (Aug 10, 2006)

jjlrrw said:


> Interesting, that's a high R value based on the thickness.


Totally agree. Claims are worthless without certification.

Just go on Amazon and look at anything made in China. The product in question will do everything you searched for, plus slice bread. And it's got 6800+ 5-star reviews, most of them written in broken English.

Wouldn't be the first time I've seen something "certified" to a weird spec, then looked the spec up and found it was some useless or made up foreign text that's completely irrelevant to the topic at hand.

Buyer beware.


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## Firefighter (Feb 14, 2007)

Do it right. Drywall is 10 bucks a sheet and r-19+ insulation is cheap. Add moisture barrier and you have like 200 dollars in material. Paint, at 70 bucks a gallon for the good stuff is probably your biggest expense. 

Or, you can deal with a cold, damp electronics room forever.


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## bobcolenso (Sep 11, 2003)

Thanks guys. To do this right is going to take me a while long time to complete, with work and chores and such. Plus I totally suck at this kind of stuff so it takes me longer to make sure it's right. I'm thinking this would be a good retirement project in a couple of years. I'd also like to add more lighting and a couple more electrical outlets then. Ceiling.

This stuff caught my eye because I can slide everything behind my benches (~4" from the walls) without having to move anything. (It's more the risers than the actual benches.) The R value may be "exaggerated" but I'm thinking at least it's better than nothing and my forthcoming space heater won't have to battle 27° concrete walls.

My issue isn't so much the expense but the time required for me to do this. Put a band-aid on it and I'll deal with it later.

Thanks again.
.


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## bobcolenso (Sep 11, 2003)

sureshot006 said:


> Heat won't shrink the size of the room either.


That's important too, because I have found juuust the right amount of push, and juuust the right amount of spin so that I have stopped both when I reach my tool box several feet behind me.


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