# Favorite Egg Fly Color/Pattern



## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

*****Not really the correct sub-forum, but I figure I'd get more help here****

Well, the GF and I are headed up to the fly only section of the PM the second to last weekend of September and it will be our first time salmon fishing. 

I've been on a egg fly tying rampage over the past couple days and have done around 100 so far. I've been trying to mix up the color combinations as I like to have a little selection of everything. The beginning 60 or so have been more firm while the last 40ish have been thinner and softer.

In the next week, we plan on going and picking up some more yarn and hooks to tie 100-150 more (might be overkill but it sure is fun and relaxing). I've been tying mostly with #6 hooks (per recommendation of the fly guy at BPS) but around 30 percent are #8's and a couple #10's.

With that being said, what is everyone's favorite color, color combo, pattern, and hook size they use for salmon? 




Attached below is what I tied so far (and yes, I know they are far from perfect lol)


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## jmaddog8807 (Oct 6, 2009)

are these hard to tie? i have wanted to learn how to tie them, but i always just end up tying and egg loop knot and doing it that way


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## flyrodder46 (Dec 31, 2011)

You probably would get a bigger response in the Fly Fishing section above but here goes.

Your color selection looks pretty good. I like the natural colors myself, but what you have there seems to cover anything that the fish might like. Try putting a veil on some more, that is my favorite type of egg fly, and I tie them in several colors. For Salmon, I generally use a size 6 for single eggs, and 8's or 10's for Steelhead and trout.


2nd poster, Yes it is fun and fairly easy to learn to do. There are lots of vid's available on sites and utube.

D


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

I tied 15 or so more today and put veils on all of them. I'll try posting it over in the tying section. Thanks for the info!


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

jmaddog8807 said:


> are these hard to tie? i have wanted to learn how to tie them, but i always just end up tying and egg loop knot and doing it that way



They are not hard at all but without anyone showing you the little tips and tricks, it will take 50 or so fly's to figure out what works best and what doesn't (at least that's how it was for me). I'm using a half hitch tool for my knots and I don't think my knots are the best but I put a little head cement on each before I cut the excess thread.

Tying has been kind of addicting and time flies by when making them.


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## RobW (Dec 6, 2012)

The eggs look good! You might try mixing up the patterns a little... caddis nymphs do well on that river too, and are pretty easy to tie. Also, give the hex nymph patterns a look, as well as stone fly nymphs, both are pretty good flies for salmon.


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## nichola8 (Oct 7, 2013)

Biggest thing with glo bugs, is really strong thread, like Kevlar. The stronger the thread the tighter the wraps and the more egg shape the egg. I have been using McFly foam lately and its way easier for me to work with and achieve the egg shape and size I'm trying to achieve. Best colors for me are Oregon cheese, peach, and steelhead orange.


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

RobW said:


> The eggs look good! You might try mixing up the patterns a little... caddis nymphs do well on that river too, and are pretty easy to tie. Also, give the hex nymph patterns a look, as well as stone fly nymphs, both are pretty good flies for salmon.


Thanks! The early one's were a little rough but I think I'm getting it a lot more now that I got a couple dozen under my belt. 

I've had some fly shop guy's tell me about the stone's and caddis nymphs so I picked up a couple but not enough to last me very long.

BPS fly guy pointed me towards the kevlar thread and mcfly foam for the same reasons so that's what I have been using. The only fly's that aren't mcfly are the ones with light pink and chartreuse in them. I had some globug yarn prior to buying the new tying stuff so I used it up.


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## Trout King (May 1, 2002)

Honestly, color doesn't matter with egg flies. Tie some streamers to maybe entice a chase and strike.


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## Sublime505 (Mar 19, 2013)

I wouldn't go out without a steelhead scud. I think just about every fish I got last year was caught on one. It's basically part egg and part bug and the salmon can't resist them. You can buy size E glass beads from Michael's to tie it. Throw it on a size 8 scud hook and your good to go. You can use rubber for the legs or you can use some orange buck tail they are both equally effective. If you want I could put up some step by step instructions on how to tie them. You can tie them in all sorts of colors, but orange was the most productive.


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## Lubbs (Jan 7, 2012)

Nice yarnies, the easiest way to tie them is with the straw method. Cut 4-6 6 inch pieces bind them together and pull them through a 3 inch piece of a straw ( my favorite is a burger king straw, them make great quarter size yarnies) and small coffee straws make great steelie yarnies they come out the size of a pea . I landed a 12 inch brown on a yarnie at tippy Saturday night.


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## Vicious Fishous (Sep 12, 2006)

Get a glo bug dispenser. $10 and creates virtually no wasted material. It's like the straw idea but thicker and tapered to keep material tight. As mentioned strong thread and wraps will achieve good eggs. 


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


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## Hemish (Feb 3, 2003)

From what I've seen on the river so far the "Triple Yarn Fly" is producing the fiercest "bite".:irked:


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## FishKilla419 (Feb 22, 2008)

Mcfly foam makes the nicest eggs. Imo

Sent from my S5


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## wdf73 (Sep 14, 2009)

Wow those are cool! Here I thought the "yarn eggs had to be tied on big trebles!


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

wdf73 said:


> Wow those are cool! Here I thought the "yarn eggs had to be tied on big trebles!



That's one part of our trip I'm not looking forward to. I have a hard enough time keeping my cool when dealing with the unethical and irresponsible sportsmen down state. I'm a salmon "noob" so I'm going to keep my mouth shut when we're up there but I already have RAP on speed dial.

Keep the opinion's coming! We're headed out to Bass Pro again this weekend to pick up some more Mcfly foam and hooks. Want to have around 200 egg flies tied before we head up, just in case


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## ausable_steelhead (Sep 30, 2002)

dmrbigeshott said:


> That's one part of our trip I'm not looking forward to. I have a hard enough time keeping my cool when dealing with the unethical and irresponsible sportsmen down state. I'm a salmon "noob" so I'm going to keep my mouth shut when we're up there but I already have RAP on speed dial.
> 
> Keep the opinion's coming! We're headed out to Bass Pro again this weekend to pick up some more Mcfly foam and hooks. Want to have around 200 egg flies tied before we head up, just in case


Bigshot, I'm telling you man; learn the egg game with bobbers. It will forever change the way you fish salmon. You not only catch them legally, you will catch the most legal, biting salmon in your life. I promise you that! 

It gets addicting watching that bobber lazily working that frog seam, then bloop; down it goes. Next comes solid resistance on the set, and that chinook thrashing the surface to a froth. It's a great feeling doing this among snaggers sometimes, as it proves how wrong they truly are. Try it, you will never go back to egg fly fishing ever again. Sweeping plugs is a ball as well. Feeling that wobble on a tight-line as you cover a log pile, then thump!


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## RobW (Dec 6, 2012)

ausable_steelhead said:


> Bigshot, I'm telling you man; learn the egg game with bobbers. It will forever change the way you fish salmon. You not only catch them legally, you will catch the most legal, biting salmon in your life. I promise you that!
> 
> It gets addicting watching that bobber lazily working that frog seam, then bloop; down it goes. Next comes solid resistance on the set, and that chinook thrashing the surface to a froth. It's a great feeling doing this among snaggers sometimes, as it proves how wrong they truly are. Try it, you will never go back to egg fly fishing ever again. Sweeping plugs is a ball as well. Feeling that wobble on a tight-line as you cover a log pile, then thump!


You can catch fish using flies under indicators too... maybe not as many, but what's a spawnless fisherman supposed to do?


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## Trout King (May 1, 2002)

RobW said:


> You can catch fish using flies under indicators too... maybe not as many, but what's a spawnless fisherman supposed to do?


Fish hardware.


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

ausable_steelhead said:


> Bigshot, I'm telling you man; learn the egg game with bobbers. It will forever change the way you fish salmon. You not only catch them legally, you will catch the most legal, biting salmon in your life. I promise you that!
> 
> It gets addicting watching that bobber lazily working that frog seam, then bloop; down it goes. Next comes solid resistance on the set, and that chinook thrashing the surface to a froth. It's a great feeling doing this among snaggers sometimes, as it proves how wrong they truly are. Try it, you will never go back to egg fly fishing ever again. Sweeping plugs is a ball as well. Feeling that wobble on a tight-line as you cover a log pile, then thump!



I'm bringing some bobber's with me that I had from when I tried Steely fishing on the Clinton. It's the same rig as C&D minus the slinky? And obviously slide the bobber up for whatever depth you want your fly to be at right?
Also, the bobber's I have are about the size of my middle finger. Are these too big and if so, what is the size I should get or should I just go with smaller strike indicators? 

As for plugs, we're going to be on the fly only section south of Baldwin. Thanks for the info!


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## RobW (Dec 6, 2012)

dmrbigeshott said:


> I'm bringing some bobber's with me that I had from when I tried Steely fishing on the Clinton. It's the same rig as C&D minus the slinky? And obviously slide the bobber up for whatever depth you want your fly to be at right?
> Also, the bobber's I have are about the size of my middle finger. Are these too big and if so, what is the size I should get or should I just go with smaller strike indicators?
> 
> As for plugs, we're going to be on the fly only section south of Baldwin. Thanks for the info!


From BBT's website:

Again, as in the chuck-n-duck piece, I certainly can't write the book that would be required to cover everything from the get go (At least not right now.) so I'll assume that most of you interested in this already know the basics of dry fly fishing. For those of you that don't, I invite you to take a guided trip with emphasis on learning, or even better, sign up for one of our fly fishing schools.

Lets start with the rig from the floating line, but first a brief note on the rod. Simple, a longer rod works better. A longer rod will give you more line control for this type of fishing, mending, etc... that is why a lot of folks have gone to spey rods even on the smaller rivers for this method. I find that a nine and a half foot rod is fine for a river like the PM and is a good all around rod for many other applications as well. A stiffer rod is also better for most folks. Experienced fly fishers will find these turn over the rig easier, mend easier, etc... Less experienced anglers may want to stick with a moderate action rod so that they can get a better feel of the rod loading.

The Floating Line: This is where a lot of folks have different ideas; I'll just give you mine. Attach your floating line to the backing by way of an Albright or nail knot. For "indy" fishing I like to over line my rod by at least one and sometimes two line weights depending on the stiffness of the rod. (Soft action, one line weight. Fast action, two.) If your fishing primarily or exclusively smaller waters like the PM, Little Manistee, etc... You'll likely want to go with a double taper or the Salmon Steelhead tapered lines mentioned below here. (Something that will roll cast easy and allows you to throw a hard mend.) Those of you that are fishing primarily the bigger waters like the Big M, Muskegon, etc. Will more than likely want to go with a weight forward. I recommend a long belly fly line here so that you can still roll cast and mend hard with relative ease, but have the ability to make long cast as well. SA, Rio, and several other companies make those Steelhead and Salmon taper lines that are just the ticket.

The leader: I attach this to the fly line with a good old nail knot directly, but a loop-to-loop connection will work fine as well. The length of the leader (not tippet) is determined by the depths of water you mostly fish (For most sections of the PM, I run about nine foot.) and while I still prefer a good old-fashioned tapered leader to help in the turning over process, it is not entirely necessary. A straight section of something in the 12lb range will work because a small amount of shot will be applied to the end of the leader and the fly line should roll this out.

The indicator: (Or, bobber if you will... After all, that's what it is.) I've seen everything from a big steelhead Carlisle bobber to the pinch on foam type used here. A member of TSS turned me on to the Thill Ice-n-fly bobbers a good while ago and I haven't gone back. Whatever bobber you use, you will want to be able to adjust it up and down your leader. Many folks will go with the sliding type (like the thill) and use a toothpick to set the depth. A fellow guide that some of you know by the name of Tommy Lynch taught me a trick with a rubber band some time ago that I love. It holds very well and can be simply slid to the desired depth with some force. This is a little too involved to explain without actually showing, so the best I can do is to promises to share if you run into me, or I'm sure Tommy would be glad to help if you run into him. Ask around a bit also, I'll bet it's caught on. The size of the indicator is determined by the amount of shot needed in the location you're fishing. (Often, a lot less shot than most think...) You'll want the bobber to go down easy!

The tippet: This is the section of line that will actually present your fly to the fish. I like to attach the tippet to the leader by way of a double surgeons knot if I'm using split shot or I'll use a small barrel swivel if I'm using hollow lead. The double surgeon is a great knot for tying lines together that sometimes have great differences in diameter. It also creates somewhat of an L shape kink in the line that I like for putting the fly downstream horizontally of the knot and split shot. The length of tippet is determined by the conditions your fishing in, but for one fly three and a half to four feet is a good general rule. I almost never run two flies when indicator fishing, but when I do, I go around three feet to the first and another foot and a half to two feet to the second. As a side note I will mention that anytime your indicator fishing your loops should be exaggerated as much as conditions will allow. (Wider loops not tighter loops.) This will help keep your leader, shot, tippet and fly from getting tangled while casting as they often do when any weight is above the lighter last object. This rule becomes very important when fishing two flies...

Presentation:

This would require another book with lots of illustrations to explain properly, but I'll sum it up as best I can rather briefly. #1. Fish the indicator just as you would most dry flies! That sounds easy, and it is if you're a dry fly fisherperson. (Drag free drifts, mending, etc... it's all done the same.) #2. Adjust the indicator on your leader so that you're shot rides just above the bottom only touching occasionally or so that your fly is presented to the fishes level when suspended. #3. Often times it is almost impossible to get a drift in close enough to the bank or other structure on the first cast without hitting the bank its self, limbs or other obstructions. Here is a valuable trick to learn and practice. After putting you're cast in as close as you can to the target area, allow a brief moment for the shot and fly to sink just a bit, then roll cast you're indicator to the desired drift with just enough force to get it there, but no so much as to pull the fly and shot clear of the water. Mend immediately and the shot will swing under the indicators position giving you the desired current seam.

Indicator fishing is fast becoming the preferred "Big Fish" method among many fly anglers here in the Midwest. It accomplishes the goal in "most" situations of getting the fly down fast enough and yet allows for a more "traditional" style of casting and presentation verses the Chuck-n-duck. It is my contention that in order to be as successful as possible (Success being defined here as catching more fish.) on our rivers, an angler should master both techniques, keep both always available and use the one that suits the situation at hand best!
Tight Lines All!
Steve


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## FishKilla419 (Feb 22, 2008)

ausable_steelhead said:


> Bigshot, I'm telling you man; learn the egg game with bobbers. It will forever change the way you fish salmon. You not only catch them legally, you will catch the most legal, biting salmon in your life. I promise you that!
> 
> It gets addicting watching that bobber lazily working that frog seam, then bloop; down it goes. Next comes solid resistance on the set, and that chinook thrashing the surface to a froth. It's a great feeling doing this among snaggers sometimes, as it proves how wrong they truly are. Try it, you will never go back to egg fly fishing ever again. Sweeping plugs is a ball as well. Feeling that wobble on a tight-line as you cover a log pile, then thump!


X 10

Sent from my S5


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## Trout King (May 1, 2002)

Ok, this may sound blunt but cnd catches more fish because of the horzontel presentation is easier to line fish. Bobber fishing flies as you would spawn is not at effective because you don't get the sweep. Kings really do not voluntarily take flies often, the most legit way is ripping streamers and occasionally a fish will chase it down and slam it, but spinners and cranks outproduce streamers. Fly guides truly knkw what they are doing but play on the naive to make clients think the fish are eating when really 95% (at least) are just flossed. I don't personally care if people floss kings, but I get more satisfaction knowing the fish swallowed my eggs or hit my cranks willingly. I do not fish yarn or flies simply because almost always if you hook a fish it did not really bite, like I said that is my personal preference. To each there own as long as a person is not blatantly giving it the hail mary jerk each drift.


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## harley parmenter (Aug 26, 2014)

Chartreuse, 18" behind a no#1 split shot floating your egg about a foot above the bottom. You swing the fly through there open mouth sight fishing. You hook up on the inside corner of the mouth and hold on! Fish it through deep holes if the fish flare off to the side your hook or weight is to shiney, use dark hooks and split and all the fish sees is a single egg floating down the river.The chartreuse color is all I take to the PM any more or a bead and stone fly. Good luck, maybe my son and I will see you there.


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## Fishnaked2206 (Apr 7, 2010)

Figured out a super simple egg pattern using nothing more than diamond braid and a veil material of your choice. Tie in a section of the diamond braid near the hook eye and make a small loop over to the side then tie off the loop then repeat the same look on the other side of the hook. Similar fashion to how you'd tie a crystal meth/sucker spawn but only only two small loops next to each other near the hook eye. Add your veil and whip finish. Very realistic look when wet. Extremely effective for steelhead fished under an Indy. Haven't had the chance to try them for salmon but I'd have to imagine they'd be similarly effective.


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## Phoolish (Aug 17, 2011)

My favorite egg pattern is a nuke egg. Works well for trout and steelhead the are feeding behind the beds also.


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## luckyshorts (Oct 11, 2011)

what material are most of you guys using for the veils?


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## Sublime505 (Mar 19, 2013)

ausable_steelhead said:


> Bigshot, I'm telling you man; learn the egg game with bobbers. It will forever change the way you fish salmon. You not only catch them legally, you will catch the most legal, biting salmon in your life. I promise you that!
> 
> It gets addicting watching that bobber lazily working that frog seam, then bloop; down it goes. Next comes solid resistance on the set, and that chinook thrashing the surface to a froth. It's a great feeling doing this among snaggers sometimes, as it proves how wrong they truly are. Try it, you will never go back to egg fly fishing ever again. Sweeping plugs is a ball as well. Feeling that wobble on a tight-line as you cover a log pile, then thump!


I've tried this many times and I can't seem to produce like everyone else does on this rig. Maybe its the time of year I go normally late September or how I rig up? I go bobber then about a foot under that I put a #4 spiltshot then about a foot or two under that a couple BB size shot and then taper it down to the hook. Then I tie a #8 octopus hook on and then a hunk of skien or spawn bag. I don't expect a fish every cast but I tried it last year all day all afternoon without results. 

Another question is and I know this has been talked about before is I cured my skein in Pro Cure according to the bottle then next day I dumped some borax in the bag and let them sit for a couple hours. The skein was still real soft and kept falling off my hook every couple of casts. Not sure if this is normal or if I cured it wrong.


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## Sublime505 (Mar 19, 2013)

luckyshorts said:


> what material are most of you guys using for the veils?


Hairline dubbing makes it called milky white egg veil makes gorgeous eggs. In a pinch you can use white egg yarn but it doesn't come out as nice.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Egg-Veil-Milky-White-Fishing/dp/B00383TT6M"]Amazon.com : Egg Veil Milky White : Fly Tying Eggs : Fly Fishing Egg Veil : Fly Tying Materials : Sports & [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41TIkd%[email protected]@[email protected]@41TIkd%2BPGsL[/ame]


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## Phoolish (Aug 17, 2011)

This is what I like to use. Same stuff


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## ausable_steelhead (Sep 30, 2002)

Sublime505 said:


> I've tried this many times and I can't seem to produce like everyone else does on this rig. Maybe its the time of year I go normally late September or how I rig up? I go bobber then about a foot under that I put a #4 spiltshot then about a foot or two under that a couple BB size shot and then taper it down to the hook. Then I tie a #8 octopus hook on and then a hunk of skien or spawn bag. I don't expect a fish every cast but I tried it last year all day all afternoon without results.
> 
> Another question is and I know this has been talked about before is I cured my skein in Pro Cure according to the bottle then next day I dumped some borax in the bag and let them sit for a couple hours. The skein was still real soft and kept falling off my hook every couple of casts. Not sure if this is normal or if I cured it wrong.


The easiest for someone new, is to rig simple. A lot of holding salmon will be in slow, soft water. The depth you're set at, will vary by the hole. Generally, 5-10' is common; especially on a small stream. Salmon often suspend however, so even in a 20' pool, 6-10' will get you bit. Mess with depth until you start getting dunks.

You can run a slip bobber or a fixed; your choice. Learn to tie a snell knot or egg loop(same thing). Run a large single hook and put a size 4-7 shot about 20"-24" above your eggs. You can use egg sinkers as well, from 1/8-1/4oz depending on current and flow. 

If you're going to use a commercial cure, you may like it better to actually mix the cure in with your borax. That will make for firmer, tougher clusters. Plain borax cured works well too. If skein is frustrating you still, tie quarter to 50-cent piece sized bags(choker bags). After tying them(red, chart, pink and white), put them in a baggie or container of borax and you're ready to fish. Bags are under used, and absolutely destroy salmon. If I had to only choose between skein or spawn bags; it would be bags every time. Good luck...


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## FishKilla419 (Feb 22, 2008)

Sublime505 said:


> I've tried this many times and I can't seem to produce like everyone else does on this rig. Maybe its the time of year I go normally late September or how I rig up? I go bobber then about a foot under that I put a #4 spiltshot then about a foot or two under that a couple BB size shot and then taper it down to the hook. Then I tie a #8 octopus hook on and then a hunk of skien or spawn bag. I don't expect a fish every cast but I tried it last year all day all afternoon without results.
> 
> Another question is and I know this has been talked about before is I cured my skein in Pro Cure according to the bottle then next day I dumped some borax in the bag and let them sit for a couple hours. The skein was still real soft and kept falling off my hook every couple of casts. Not sure if this is normal or if I cured it wrong.


Bobber game is first thing in the morning in allot of spots. Overcast skies can prolong the bites. Later in the year all day bites are more frequent imo. I make sure to cut the skeins in a manner that every chunk has some of the main membrane on it.

Sent from my S5


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## mrjimspeaks (Aug 23, 2009)

Eh, bobbers will drop all day long. It's better early morning and just before sunrise but they'll still go on skein during the day. Resting a hole helps. If you're flossin', you don't really have to worry about biting; so that's nice i guess.


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

ausable_steelhead said:


> The easiest for someone new, is to rig simple. A lot of holding salmon will be in slow, soft water. The depth you're set at, will vary by the hole. Generally, 5-10' is common; especially on a small stream. Salmon often suspend however, so even in a 20' pool, 6-10' will get you bit. Mess with depth until you start getting dunks.
> 
> You can run a slip bobber or a fixed; your choice. Learn to tie a snell knot or egg loop(same thing). Run a large single hook and put a *size 4-7 shot about 20"-24" above your eggs*. You can use egg sinkers as well, from 1/8-1/4oz depending on current and flow.


Any trick's for not having your split shot slide down your leader and sit on the fly? Or are you just putting the shot below the bobber and above the barrel swivel that you have your leader tied to?


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

Phoolish said:


> My favorite egg pattern is a nuke egg. Works well for trout and steelhead the are feeding behind the beds also.



That's a good lookin egg! I've tied quite a few nukes but nothing with a veil that long and I've been using white Mcfly foam. I'll have to keep my eye's open for the veil specific stuff this weekend.


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## DoubleJay (Aug 9, 2009)

Fishing with spawn under bobbers in the "flys only" water? Not recommended.


Sent from my iPad using Ohub Campfire


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## mrjimspeaks (Aug 23, 2009)

Yea, go someplace else where b/s rules based on outdated science aren't in place. Thank god for lobbying groups. I'd rather fish lower rivers and get fresh legit biting fish.


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## dmrbigeshott (Apr 18, 2010)

mrjimspeaks said:


> Yea, go someplace else where b/s rules based on outdated science aren't in place. Thank god for lobbying groups. I'd rather fish lower rivers and get fresh legit biting fish.


Wow, you're so hardcore. This thread was created for sharing information, not your opinion on why you are such a better fisherman than everyone who fishes the upper river. Please keep it on track so it doesn't turn into a big waste of time like the countless other threads that have been hijacked.


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