# Soil testing



## boostfan (Feb 7, 2011)

I am looking to start my first food plot, maybe this year, maybe next. Everything I read says to get the soil tested for PH level. I really don't want to go through the effort of mail in samples. I would think I could find self test kits but not sure where to look. I see BPS has PH meters which may be an option, but I don't know if they work despite the $30 price.

Any experience or advice? 

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## Anderson (May 17, 2005)

Knowing the ph is just one part of the whole soil test equation. Having a soil test that also lets you know how much fertilizer is needed. This knowledge will save you more than the cost of the soil test. Unfortunately most hand held ph meters that I have seen are not that accurate. Maybe the newer ones have gotten better.

Tim


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## freshwater drum (Mar 17, 2007)

it's as easy as putting some dirt in a ziploc bag and sending it in. it cost around $11 i think. the hand held meters are junk. i tried a hand held and then a slurry mix with the capsules. after 2 yrs of not much growing i sent in my samples and corrected the ph and fertilizer requirements. now i have knee high clover. lesson learned.


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## boostfan (Feb 7, 2011)

freshwater drum said:


> it's as easy as putting some dirt in a ziploc bag and sending it in. it cost around $11 i think. the hand held meters are junk. i tried a hand held and then a slurry mix with the capsules. after 2 yrs of not much growing i sent in my samples and corrected the ph and fertilizer requirements. now i have knee high clover. lesson learned.


Who did you send it to?

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## nofork (Jan 25, 2005)

Call your local extension office for soil testing locations.


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## casscityalum (Aug 27, 2007)

boostfan said:


> Who did you send it to?
> 
> _OutdoorHub Mobile, the information engine of the outdoors_


Call the extension office or go straight to google and search michigan state soil laboratory and you should be able to find all the info you need 


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## anon12192013aazz (Dec 10, 2010)

You can find a local farm coop or just send the samples in to the MSU labs, which is probably where the coop will send them, anyway. 

Don't go with a home PH test kit and skip the other stuff. You'll save a few dollars, but waste a lot of time and energy when you put in a plot because you won't REALLY know how much lime and fertilizer to use. Like a previous poster said, you'll probably save more than the cost of sending off the samples by using precisely the amount of amendments for your soil.

Follow the instructions found on the website below and you'll quickly realize how easy and cost-effective it is to get the information you NEED to put in a successful food plot.

http://www.css.msu.edu/SPNL/


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## Anderson (May 17, 2005)

MSU is a good soil test lab. I use Spectrum Analytic in Washington Courthouse OH as I know someone that works there. Their prices are very competitive.

http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/services/

A couple of tips: Pick a testing lab and stick with them. Each testing lab is slightly different and the results will be slightly different. This is due to the way each lab will calibrate their equipment. One isn't better than another, just different. By using one lab you will have more consistent results. 

Also you don't need to soil test every year if you don't want. But when you do soil test do it the same time of the year, fall vs. spring etc. Again this will result in more consistent results and you will start to see trends in your fertility program. 

Tim


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## casscityalum (Aug 27, 2007)

since I attend MSU and work for the soil lab in the spring Im partial to them 

http://www.css.msu.edu/SPNL/

Look at the different forms. I think most extension offices charge 15-20 bucks for the standard test plus shipping. 

Just make sure you fill up a gallon ziplock bag or the whole box if you get it from the extension office.


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## Anderson (May 17, 2005)

Cass, since you work there I'm curious. Which P test do they use? Olsen? P1? How many samples will they get and more spring or fall? Last question, why a gallon of soil? Most labs I've sent to were more like a quart or even less. 

Tim


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## dhosera (Jul 11, 2006)

I just had 5 different Plots tested and it costs 4$ a test. He does it right at his store and then gives you a "soil Pedigree". It has the Existing PH, and Existing Levels of nutrients in the soil and then he will reccomend how many LBS per acre of Lime and what type of fertilizer to put down to raise your PH to a desired level for a desired crop. Best 20$ I ever spent and EASY!


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## boostfan (Feb 7, 2011)

dhosera said:


> I just had 5 different Plots tested and it costs 4$ a test. He does it right at his store and then gives you a "soil Pedigree". It has the Existing PH, and Existing Levels of nutrients in the soil and then he will reccomend how many LBS per acre of Lime and what type of fertilizer to put down to raise your PH to a desired level for a desired crop. Best 20$ I ever spent and EASY!


What store is that?

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## PerchOnly (Oct 24, 2007)

boostfan said:


> What store is that?
> 
> I hate to state the obvious, but..take a look at his thread title
> 
> *Blue Ribbon Feed Co Lowell Michigan*


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## casscityalum (Aug 27, 2007)

PerchOnly said:


> boostfan said:
> 
> 
> > What store is that?
> ...


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## dhosera (Jul 11, 2006)

Super nice guy so I dont mind one bit Plugging his business. If you want to talk plots he will talk your ear off for as long as you have.


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## Dr. Judy (Dec 20, 2008)

If you skip this all-important test, a lot of time and money can be wasted. 

Soil types and nutrient content can have considerable variation from one region to another. Knowing the proper make up of your soil allows you to choose the right amendments, to get soil conditions closer to the ideal. It also allows for proper plant selection. 

Healthy plants are more resistant to the stress and disease created by inappropriate moisture conditions, grazing density, and weed competition.

There are certain soil conditions which are not conducive to healthy growth of food plot plants. Soil amendments may be necessary to ensure proper pH and nutrient balance. Without this balance, optimum growth and production cannot be achieved. 

Importance of pH
A pH of 7 is considered neutral and is ideal for growing most crops. Most plants used in food plots grow well in loam or sandy loam soils, with pH of 6.5 to 7.5. If a plant is sensitive to pH, even a small drop from 7 to 6.5 can change the soil conditions from ideal to adequate. Acidic soils are more common than neutral soils, where there is adequate rainfall and where nitrogen fertilization takes place.

Lower pH or acidic soils are less suitable for growing most food plot plants. In fact, when pH is low there is decreased bacterial activity in the soil. This creates a situation where soil nutrients become fixed in the soil and are less available for plant growth. The further the deviation from neutral in either direction, the greater the impact on soil fertility.

Soil pH Effects on Lime and Fertilizer Costs

_If you are planting legumes_:
1.The optimum pH of the soil should be 6.5 to 7.0. 
2.Phosphorus (P) should be between 30-50 ppm, with optimum being closer to 50.
3.Potassium (K) should be 100-200 ppm, with the higher level being closer to 200.

If these basic fertility requirements are not met, yields will be decreased. If the soil pH is too low, more N fertilization is required to make up for lack of bacterial nitrogen fixation. If soil pH is optimal, then additional nitrogen is generally not recommended for legumes, as this may just stimulate competitive weed and grass growth. 

_If you are planting grasses_:
1.The optimum pH of the soil should be 6.0 to 6.5.
2.Phosphorus (P) should be between 30 -50 ppm.
3.Potassium (K) should be 100-200 ppm.

If you are growing grasses, nitrogen may not be needed, depending on what was grown recently in your plotting area. If legumes were recently grown, additional nitrogen may not be required. Even when grasses are planted, low soil pH (outside the optimum) will increase the need for nitrogen and potentially decrease growth rates. This could increase the probability that native weeds and grasses will overtake your plot.

*Lime additions are cheaper than fertilizer*, and bringing up the soil pH will help you maximize the natural ability of legumes to produce their own nitrogen. A typical application of 2 tons of lime/acre would cost about 1/5th the price of fertilizer. When using seed mixes, fertilizer costs can be significant - with some recommendations being as high as 150 to 300lbs/acre. Correcting soil pH will help you reduce these costs. (1)

Soil pH Effects on Herbicide Performance
Soil pH can also impact herbicide effectiveness. Some herbicides become bound to the soil when pH is low. Higher doses may be necessary to get the same level of weed control. This high rate of herbicide residue in the soil may become detrimental at the next seeding round. If you were to apply pre-seeding lime treatments, the sudden release of the previously applied chemical (herbicide) may weaken or kill your seedlings. (1)

Soil pH Effects on Calcium and Magnesium Availability
Legumes have a high requirement for both of these nutrients. Calcium and magnesium are supplied in the form of limestone. If the pH is low, the availability of these nutrients is decreased. Soil tests showing less than 60 ppm Mg is considered deficient in Mg, and limestone with Mg should be used to build the soil up. 

Home pH Test Kits
There simple test kits available for pH evaluation. They can be helpful with respect to evaluation of pH. Although this measurement is important it is only a small part of the entire story. Soil tests evaluate a number of different elements within the soil. A complete soil test will give you information on the pH, organic matter content, and macro nutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and nitrogen (in some cases). 

Common Macro Nutrients in Soil

_Soil Nitrogen_
Non-legume crops obtain nitrogen from three sources: 
1.Nitrogen stored in the soil at the time of planting.
2.Nitrogen released by the soil during the growing season (from soil organic matter, manure and crop residues). 
3.Fertilizer nitrogen.

Nitrogen levels may or may not be given in a routine soil test, as this nutrient is very labile and the levels change throughout the growing season. For measured nitrogen levels to be accurate, they are often tested when the crop has its highest demand for nitrogen. There are in season nitrogen tests available in most labs if you need them. An economic response to nitrogen is seldom obtained on soils testing high in available nitrogen, but rates of 100 lb/ac or more may be profitable on soils testing low in available nitrogen. (9)

Weeds lower the yield potential of a crop and compete for nitrogen fertilizer that has been applied. Higher nitrogen application rates are not profitable when weed competition is severe. Weed control prior to seeding is your best protection against wasting expensive fertilizer. (9)
When you use manure as a fertilizer, it will increase both P and K while increasing the Nitrogen. Excessive use of manure may cause P and K levels to increase in a soil, and they can become toxic. Soil testing helps to evaluate these elements. 

_Soil Sulphur_
Some Gray Wooded and Dark Gray Wooded soils and well drained Black soils are deficient in sulphur. Sulphur deficiency is not common on Brown and Dark Brown soils. Deficiencies seldom occur in crops grown on fallow. Legume crops and cereal crops that have been well-fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer commonly require sulphur fertilization. Sulphur requirements of rape and legumes are greater than those of cereals. Sulphur fertilization is inexpensive, owing to the relatively low rate of application required (10-30 lb/ac). If your soil is deficient, supplying sulphur can provide very high returns. (9)

_Soil Phosphorus_

Unlike nitrogen, available phosphorus (P) levels tend to be characteristic of individual fields or soil types, and do not vary widely from year to year due to previous management. The rate of phosphorus required will depend on several aspects:

Available phosphorus level of the field. 
Phosphorus requirement of the crop to be grown. 
Growing conditions.

Cool, wet conditions early in the growing season enhance the response to phosphorus fertilizer. Application of phosphorus fertilizer often results in earlier and more uniform maturity, which is important in northern regions where the growing seasons are shorter. 

Favorable response can be obtained when 10 to 15 lb/ac of phosphate is added, even on soils testing moderately high. On soils testing low in phosphorus, most of the response is achieved at 40 to 50 lb/ac.(2) On soils that are very deficient in phosphorus, such as eroded hilltops, a single plow-down application of 100 to 200 lb/ac may be beneficial, in addition to normal annual applications.

Micro Nutrients in Soil 

Soil testing can also provide levels of micro nutrients such as copper, zinc, iron, manganese, aluminum and lead. Micro nutrient deficiencies tend to be associated with particular soil types, growing conditions and crops. Generally, routine use of micro nutrient fertilizers is not recommended. These nutrients are best applied when deficiencies have been documented through soil testing.

Some examples of micro nutrient deficiencies are:
1.Manganese deficiency in oats under cold, wet soil conditions.
2.Boron deficiency in canola and alfalfa on a few Gray Wooded and sandy soils.
3.Copper deficiency on organic and mineral soils.
4.Zinc deficiency on irrigated field beans. (62) 


Collecting a Useful Sample

Even the best soil test is only as good as the samples you provide. Knowing what plants you intend to use prior to the soil test will result in the best recommendations for your plot.

The best time to gather samples is at least 2-6 months before seedbed preparation. Testing in the fall allows adequate time for lime application prior to seeding. Testing in the spring allows for better assessment of macronutrients (N, P, K) following possible nutrient run off, depending on the amount of snow and moisture. 

Proper collection technique can ensure sound soil test results. Collect only samples that will indicate the conditions at the rooting depth of your plants. For most plants this is between 2 and 6 inches. If you have several smaller plots, it is recommended that you do each plot separately. 

When gathering samples, avoid areas where soil conditions deviate from the norm. This may include low spots, alkaline patches, and sodden regions. Including these regions in your sample can negatively affect the soil test, and result in recommendations that may be both difficult and unnecessary. If you are trying to correct problem areas, then soil samples should be obtained from these regions separately. 

When sampling in no till areas, take a 6 inch deep sample for lime and fertilizer recommendations, and a separate sample at 2 inch depth to monitor surface acidity. 

Filling Out the Paper Work
There is usually paperwork to be filled out which requires some historical information about what has been grown in the past, as well as what you are planning to plant now. If you know in advance what you are going to plant, noting it prior to the soil test allows the lab to make the best recommendations for that plants specific needs when compared to your soil_*.* Ideally, plant selection should be done first. _

There are instances where *soil testing is done prior to plant selection*. When you are new to food plots, you may choose to get your first soil sample done without knowing what you are going to plant. This is especially true if your plot location is in an area that has never been used for cultivated crops. This is still a reasonable plan. Once you are armed with the analysis, you can significantly narrow down your options for plant choices. You may even find that the soil is unsuitable without significant amendments for any kind of cultivated crop to grow well. Places where soil amendments are either impractical or impossible may require analysis prior to plant selection. This will prevent you from wasting time and money putting in No-Plow seeds that wont grow well.

In unusual situations, you may need to contact the local agriculture office and ask for additional consultation, and give them the soil tests and what your new choice of plant is. They are usually very helpful in giving you the information to adjust your previous recommendations. 

*If you want to select plants before the soil test* but have not chosen yet, here are some* general hints* that you may find helpful.

Most food plot fertilizer and soil amendments can be based off of either a clover or clover/ grass pasture crop. This will not be exact, but it should be close for most of the plot forage choices we generally use. 
Pick one of the more commonly used plants for either fall or spring/summer planting.
Ideally it would be something not available in the immediate area. This means that if the farmer next to you has 50 acres of corn, this would not be an ideal choice for you. 
Clovers (or clover blends), small (wheat, oats, rye) and large grains (soybeans, peas, corn) and brassicas are the most common choices people often start with. 

Where to Send Samples
We have three resources for soil sample submissions or information at this time. I am unable to post the links to these websites at this time, but I would be happy to post them if moderators give the ok once they are approved. They are websites associated with US Gov, Whitetail Institute and Soil Testing Services to which I have no direct affliation. 

Interpretation of Fertilizer and Liming Recommendations 

Now that you have the test results back from the lab, you need to decipher them.

Liming and pH:
The pH is a measure of how acidic the soil is. The value will be given on a scale of 1-14 (with 7 being neutral). The more acidic the soil, the lower the number is. The most important point here is that a single number change in either direction represents a 10 fold change in acidity. So therefore pH = 6 is 10 times more acidic than 7, but a pH of 5 is 100X more acidic than a pH of 7. I am sure you can appreciate how the soil conditions are vastly different with only a small change in pH. 
When applying lime (to increase the pH of soil) there are several types to choose from. The most commonly used are calcitic limestone, dolomitic limestone, or basic slag. If the test recommends 2 tons of lime, then you can use 2 tons of calcitic limestone, 1.8 tons of dolomitic limestone, or 3.3 tons of basic slag. 

It is generally understood that, in acidic soils, the minimum amount of lime to spread is 2 ton/acre since this application rate will not overdo it, and it is generally the most economical volume for the small plot owner. If more than 4 tons/acre is called for then the application should be split, with half of the additive being plowed in, and the rest worked into the surface with finer tillage. (62) 

Ideally lime should be applied more than 5 to 6 months prior to planting, so it will have time to impact the soil conditions. The time frame can be shorter, but the best advantages are achieved by waiting. It is through direct particle-to-particle contact that this application works, so just throwing it on top has no value - it does not work, as rain runs it through the soil. Also, putting it too deep has no value either. 

Calculating Fertilizer Rates 
There are a large number of different fertilizers available. The fertilizer analysis is written in the following format on the bag: N-P-K. 
For example: A 100 lb bag of 20-20-20 would have 20% N, 20% P, and 20% K. Based on the weight of the bag (100lbs) , there would be 20 lbs of each component in the bag. The fertilizer percentages dont add up to 100% because there are fillers present. 

You can manually calculate the fertilizer rates using the following formula if you start with a 100 lb fertilizer bag. 
Recommended application rate per acre/fertilizer analysis 
number on bag X 100 = fertilizer rate.

If you do manual calculations based on your soil test recommendations, you will quickly notice that in many cases if you calculate the fertilizer rate of N /acre, then the amount of P and K delivered may be incorrect, depending on which fertilizer you are using. 

My best recommendation for proper fertilizer application rates is to take your soil test to your local fertilizer supplier, and let them help you determine which fertilizer mixture is closest to what you need or have them custom mix one for you. 

*Here is a resource for fertilizer selection.* 
It is a Canadian website, but most of the fertilizers are available in both the United States and Canada. (9)

There is a link here also that cannot be posted till approved by moderators. I also have no affiliation with the link, it is a government resource. 

Some General Guidelines Regarding Fertilizer Application Issues
In general, the time to apply fertilizers is as close as possible to the time that plants need the nutrient. Loss of nutrients increases with time. In northern climates, surface applications of chemical fertilizer or manure in the fall or winter are not recommended without incorporation. This is because the removal of nutrients through snow melt water is high. Moist but not wet soil is most effective for fertilizer applications. (23)

Applications can be done spring or fall but depending on early spring conditions, significant losses of fertilizer value can result. Generally, crops require the greatest amounts of nutrients at the times of fastest growth and seed production. If applied too early in the season, some nutrients may be transported out of the root zone with runoff or infiltrating water, prior to the time of peak demand. Post-seeding treatments and slow-release products offer some alternatives to traditional applications at the time of seeding. (47)

_Nitrogen_
Nitrogen fertilizers are very soluble and move readily in moist soil. You do not need to place the fertilizer close to the seed to get good fertilization. For most food plots, broadcasting applications work well. If you are planning on placing fertilizer directly with the seed while planting, be careful, as the rate at which you can apply fertilizer that close to the seed is affected by crop type, soil moisture, soil type, fertilizer type, and row spacing. Incorrect application with the seed can lead to crop failure. It is best to use nitrogen close to seeding time, or distribute early in rapid growth phases when broadcasting. (25)

Nitrogen fertilizer sources are ammonium nitrate (34-0-0), ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24S; 20-0-0-24S and 19-3-0-22S), urea (46-0-0), anhydrous ammonia (82-0-0), urea - ammonium sulphate (34-0-0-11S), urea - ammonium nitrate solutions (28-0-0), and acid nitrogen solutions (24-6-0-4S and 26 0 0 6S). 

_Phosphate_ 

Phosphates do not move readily in soil, which means the ideal placement is usually close to the developing seedlings. Broadcasting is less effective than banding or seed row applications, and therefore should be 2 to 4 times the rate of application for these methods. On very deficient soils, application should be banded or incorporated prior to seeding perennial forages. When broadcasting phosphates, you may notice the response is better in the second year. Applications can be done in spring or fall, because of the relatively stable nature of the compound in soil. (25)

Phosphorus fertilizer sources include monoammonium phosphate (11-51-0, 12-51-0 and 11-55-00), diammonium phosphate (18-46-0), monocalcium phosphate or triple super phosphate (0-45-0), ammonium polyphosphate solution (10 34 0), liquid suspensions made from monoammonium phosphate (10-30-0) and acid solutions made from phosphoric acid and urea (0-34-0-4S). 

_Potassium _
Potassium moves into the soil for distribution more easily than phosphorus,, but banding or drilling in with the seed is still superior to broadcasting. Broadcast applications the rates are generally twice that required when drilling is used. Applications can be done fall or spring. (25)

The most common potassium fertilizer source is muriate of potash (0-0-60 or 0-0-62).

_Sulphur_

Sulphur in the sulphate form moves readily in moist soils, and therefore broadcast applications work well for food plots. 

Common sulphur fertilizer sources are ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24S, 20-0-0-24S and 19-3-0-22S), urea-ammonium sulphate (34-0-0-11S), ammonium phosphate-sulphate (16-20-0-14S and 17-20-0-15S), sulphur bentonite (90% S) and gypsum (CaSO4, 2H2O). 

:idea: Having trouble sleeping? This oughta do it.

Lots of information, hopefully you find some of it useful.


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## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

Dr. Judy said:


> .......................................................:idea: Having trouble sleeping? This oughta do it.
> 
> Lots of information, hopefully you find some of it useful.


Something tells me that Dr. Judy is an experienced cut and paste poster.
Lots of good info there.....thanks and welcome to our site. 

L & O


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