# First timer for Muskrats with a population question-



## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Finally built the house on the river. No excuse not to run a water line now. Have seen a fat rat right in front of property multiple times. Figured why not right? So...110, #1 and colony trap have been deployed. Even found the den which was pretty cool.

My question is this, and forgive my newb status for it.

What are the odds that there is just one lone muskrat in the neighborhood? I'd think where there's one there's got to be 3-6 yes?


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## Chriss83 (Sep 18, 2021)

Pretty rare to be one.


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Muskrats breed +/- 3 times a years from what I've read


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## MichiFishy (Sep 17, 2019)

I don't think I've ever caught only one rat at a location. Good luck with the traps.


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## mjh4 (Feb 2, 2018)

Should be more than one unless you have a few mink around. Mink love to kill rats!


Sent from my iPhone using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## John the fisherman (Feb 28, 2019)

Good luck! Maybe you'll get a mink as well!


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## Martin Looker (Jul 16, 2015)

I did take eight rats out of one trap years ago. Did it in two days and never caught another one there that fall. It was in the culvert under my driveway and everytime I thought about it I checked the trap and pulled out a rat.


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## nichola8 (Oct 7, 2013)

They move around a lot under the cover of darkness. If your seeing 1 there are several others.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

BumpRacerX said:


> Finally built the house on the river. No excuse not to run a water line now. Have seen a fat rat right in front of property multiple times. Figured why not right? So...110, #1 and colony trap have been deployed. Even found the den which was pretty cool.
> 
> My question is this, and forgive my newb status for it.
> 
> What are the odds that there is just one lone muskrat in the neighborhood? I'd think where there's one there's got to be 3-6 yes?


There's gonna be more. Should you catch that big rat, check to see if the tail has bite marks. That's a good indicator that there's more rats in the area. I caught a few like that last year.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

There are now 3-110's, 1- #1 and 1- colony trap set.

The river came up significantly overnight and a new opening appeared as a result. All the action is happening on my island (located in the upper right quadrant on the overall river pic).


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

How would you set that opening?

I put the #1 at the opening. But now I'm second guessing myself.


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Body grip. Could get a twist off with a foot hold.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

FREEPOP said:


> Body grip. Could get a twist off with a foot hold.


I like it. Re-affirms what I was thinking before I chickened out. Any reason why I couldn't basically lay a 110 across the opening?


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

BumpRacerX said:


> I like it. Re-affirms what I was thinking before I chickened out. Any reason why I couldn't basically lay a 110 across the opening?


That'll work too. Rats aren't afraid of anything.


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## Spade (Feb 20, 2007)

FREEPOP said:


> Muskrats breed +/- 3 times a years from what I've read


That is what I understand also, having 6-10 pups per little. So if conditions are ideal, -- 3 litters x 6 pups >18 rats. That would not include the rats travelling up or down stream.
You might consider only taking 13 or 14, that gives you some breeding stock for next year.


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Rats are also very low on the food chain, everything eats them. Mink, fix, coyote, hawks, owls, eagles......


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Empty traps today.

Went down to look about 10:30. This rude rodent swims from my side of the river to the opposite shore and proceeds to stare at me.

Just went back. It's still in the same spot. Just chilling. 

River is probably too deep for waders in the channel. Plus I don't own that shore. But man.


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

Mmm...perhaps a little bait/lure will change the rat's mind. Carrots, apples, parsnips. You can put the bait on the trigger of the conibears. A float might be worth a try too.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

General Ottsc said:


> Mmm...perhaps a little bait/lure will change the rat's mind. Carrots, apples, parsnips. You can put the bait on the trigger of the conibears. A float might be worth a try too.


I have an apple core in the colony plus had an apple core inside another set (but it appears that it floated out into the river as it was gone with no trap tripped).

Today I put chunks of apple on sticks behind the triggers. Fingers crossed. I'm gonna get my first rat.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Yahtzee!!



























As crazy as this sounds. I might try to find a taxidermist. I've wanted to live on this river my entire life. Now here I am.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

nichola8 said:


> Not bad for a trap that didn't get a dot of rust on it yet. Your doing good for a beginner.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


Thanks, I think it's more of a high traffic/good set location thing than it is anything I'm doing. Though I have read a metric crap ton of posts on here and trapperman, watched a ton of YouTube plus read a few books. Muskrat (and now Mink) appear to be much easier than trapping the neighborhood fox.

I popped my cherry with Raccoons a couple years ago more as a way to reduce the nest raiders. The fun in them wore off quickly and I haven't even set my DP's this year as a result. Fortunately...I have seen a single one on the trail cam either.


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## Gnoyes (Jan 23, 2013)

Nice catches! Even better that it’s right out your back door. 

I’m still very much a novice, but have learned that identifying high traffic/ good locations to set is the most critical step to success. So it’s very much what you’re doing... not some kind of random luck.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

It’s very true, location is a key to trapping any furbearer but a solid understanding of the inherent tendencies of the target furbearer allows a trapper to consistently identify the most productive locations.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Massive Opossum in my land set 1 3/4 OS today. One less nest raider as well. 

Water sets were empty. River depth has surged pretty good, need to think about how that changes the travel patterns a bit and make adjustments. Or leave things as they are and wait for the levels to come down.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

River is back down to a manageable level.

Added the following traps last night.

Bottom edge to the bridge wall 110 conibear.
Potato baited 110 conibear to the vegetation.
Apple baited 110 conibear to the vegetation.

Also put a little Pete Rickards mink lure inside a couple pocket sets.

This morning we were empty but clearly missed a rat on the apple. The trap did not fire, but the apple slice was/is all chewed up in the water by the trap. Guessing it slid off the trap trigger and the rat was able to enjoy a free meal on me.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Been deader than a doorknob of late. Nothing happening. And then today...a conibear knocked over along the bridge. Can see the travel line kicking up the soot.

So...stood it back up and try again.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Looks like **** knocked it over to me. I figure **** are making that little trail And if you look close you can see where a **** tried to step over the trap.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Here’s a tip BRX-
Bottom edge (BE) sets are great sets but they need to be used in locations where they can capitalize on the animal’s inherent behavior. The BE along the bridge wall is a low % set. Why? Because the rats and mink are not usually traveling submerged when they have overhead cover such as the bridge or an overhanging bank with head space! The corners are good but once under the cover of the bridge they pop up and swim them surface.

Some years ago I tested this theory with bridges similar to the one in the photo by setting a BG as you did as a BE and directly above it, a foothold on a pedestal. I did this for 2 years under 3 bridges, the catch rate was 1:5, 1;7, and 1:8 respectively, meaning I would catch 5, 7 or 8 animals compared to every 1 caught in the BE!!!

Save your BE for when you have hard water under the bridge and set a foothold on a cement block or something similar that holds a foothold 1” under water when you have open water. Think about WHY an animal would be swimming under water along that bare bottom bridge wall? They swim underwater for 2 reasons, one to catch prey or feed on vegetation AND for protection from overhead predation.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Seldom said:


> Here’s a tip BRX-
> Bottom edge (BE) sets are great sets but they need to be used in locations where they can capitalize on the animal’s inherent behavior. The BE along the bridge wall is a low % set. Why? Because the rats and mink are not usually traveling submerged when they have overhead cover such as the bridge or an overhanging bank with head space! The corners are good but once under the cover of the bridge they pop up and swim them surface.
> 
> Some years ago I tested this theory with bridges similar to the one in the photo by setting a BG as you did as a BE and directly above it, a foothold on a pedestal. I did this for 2 years under 3 bridges, the catch rate was 1:5, 1;7, and 1:8 respectively, meaning I would catch 5, 7 or 8 animals compared to every 1 caught in the BE!!!
> ...


That's an easy adaptation for the line tomorrow. I'll switch the BG's out with footholds on a platform.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

BumpRacerX said:


> That's an easy adaptation for the line tomorrow. I'll switch the BG's out with footholds on a platform.


Makes sure you have the traps anchored/secured well because you’ll probably catch that **** as well.

Also, make sure your trap is bedded fairly well so it won’t tip. You can use a big chunk of sod turned upside down to bed your trap in. Just build up underneath the sod to get your trap within 1” of the surface.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

So, the BE has not connected. Nor have any of the conibears. Yesterday I spotted a rat. Today's check, the colony trap that has never caught anything in two years had a muskrat in it!


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Because male mink are travelers, it can take sometime for them to come back through but with rats if you haven’t scored in a couple of days, move your traps. 

I did an experiement some years ago when I was trapping mink. I had a trapper in WI swear that if you left your mink sets in for 6 weeks the mink would just continue to come though. Whereas my records showed that this was not true on my water. My catches were on or around the 3rd night and the 9th night and the rest of the 6 week period was noting more than a waste of time.

Now you said it took over 2 years to catch a rat in a particular colony trap. Why did you have a trap in that location? , I strongly suggest you quit wasting your time hoping for a catch and study why some locations catch rats and some don’t That is the basis of trapping.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Seldom said:


> Because male mink are travelers, it can take sometime for them to come back through but with rats if you haven’t scored in a couple of days, move your traps.
> 
> I did an experiement some years ago when I was trapping mink. I had a trapper in WI swear that if you left your mink sets in for 6 weeks the mink would just continue to come though. Whereas my records showed that this was not true on my water. My catches were on or around the 3rd night and the 9th night and the rest of the 6 week period was noting more than a waste of time.
> 
> Now you said it took over 2 years to catch a rat in a particular colony trap. Why did you have a trap in that location? , I strongly suggest you quit wasting your time hoping for a catch and study why some locations catch rats and some don’t That is the basis of trapping.



What you're saying makes complete sense and if I was taking this seriously, absolutely. Definitely understand what you're saying. For me, the colony trap was an easy way to way to put something out in a spot I visited daily. I wasn't really trapping. More taking a walk on my property. Now it's even more convenient in that I walk 150' out my basement door and I'm on the water.

If I decide to ramp up, I've got a few spots in mind to go to. But right now I'm having plenty of fun doing this right out my door.


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## nichola8 (Oct 7, 2013)

If you have some open water try some #1 coilsprings on hagz holders with a piece of green apple or parsnip.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

nichola8 said:


> If you have some open water try some #1 coilsprings on hagz holders with a piece of green apple or parsnip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


Lots of open water right now. Pretty good flow on the river. Might have to pick up a hagz holder and give it a try. Any bait I use though I kinda want to stay away from anything that attracts ducks. The mallards are thick.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Should also clarify on the colony trap's first catch. This is the first year I've lived here even though we've had the property since 2018. With living here, I'm spending time just watching the animals in the river. It's amazing what you can learn just sitting by the water observing. Based on that plus the posts on here I'm changing up some of my sets while leaving others in the same spots.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

It's been quiet around here. No sign at all on the river. Did spot a rat the other day though, so that's a good thing. And then on today's check I found a nice spot where targets got out of the water. I'm in play. Now it's just a matter of connecting.










Also, a member of this site hooked me up with a couple MI legal cable restraints. I haven't seen the fox in a week or so, but am planning on setting them up to see what happens. Just need to re-read the rules and watch a few YouTube's for pointers.


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## nichola8 (Oct 7, 2013)

THEBOOK.pmd (michigan.gov) 

Lot's of rules...that's why I don't run them.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

That is the least reason I have for not running them!! LOL


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## Spade (Feb 20, 2007)

Seldom said:


> That is the least reason I have for not running them!! LOL


Agree,


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## Chriss83 (Sep 18, 2021)

Seldom said:


> That is the least reason I have for not running them!! LOL


Because they SUCK lol.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Chriss83 said:


> Because they SUCK lol.


DING_DING_DING! We have a winner!


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

It's been sloooooow here. The canines are not cooperating. Had a fox come through a couple nights ago. Avoided both the cable restraint and the foothold. Thought for sure the foothold was going to be money. Moved in closer to inspect and figured out my mistake. Learn something from every failure.

Last night a canine walked down my drive, checked out my male coonhound's favorite pee tree. Walked around the house, completely ignored the chicken coop (which has a few footholds defending it), and then walked out the opposite side of the property. 

Water line has been empty. Yesterday I walked a quarter mile of river looking for sign. Nada. Homeowner 1.75 miles down river has an active beaver and has asked me to try and trap it. I explained that I'm new to this and just learning on the fly. Doesn't care, said come down and try to make the magic happen. Cool. 

Gives me two additional properties to set for Beaver. Just waiting for the days to get a little longer with the afternoon temps in the 20's. Then I can paddle down after work for my checks. Get a workout in and do my check all in one swoop.

Which leads to a Beaver question-
At my house I have old Beaver damage (last year) but nothing major. In the spring, late February/Early March the Beaver really travel. I've read about spring dispersal etc. What's the best way to set for these travelers?


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

BumpRacerX said:


> Which leads to a Beaver question-
> At my house I have old Beaver damage (last year) but nothing major. In the spring, late February/Early March the Beaver really travel. I've read about spring dispersal etc. What's the best way to set for these travelers?


A castor mound set. Let those beaver come to you.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

General Ottsc said:


> A castor mound set. Let those beaver come to you.


That's what I'm hoping to do. I figure with three properties to set on the river, all with past or current beaver damage I've got a shot. Any recommendations on lures? I ordered a couple food type lures (woodchipper and deadman's hand) last night but need to get some castor based.


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

BumpRacerX said:


> That's what I'm hoping to do. I figure with three properties to set on the river, all with past or current beaver damage I've got a shot. Any recommendations on lures? I ordered a couple food type lures (woodchipper and deadman's hand) last night but need to get some castor based.


I'd go with just plain castor. Those younger beaver will be out looking for their own territory and will stop at any castor mound to investigate. I have heard good things about that woodchopper lure though.

Remember when using a foothold you'll want at least 3-4 ft of water to drown them. I'd say 4 ft to be on the safe side.

A castor mound set can be done with a conibear too but you'd need to find a natural funnel; like an indent in the bank or a spot where it'd be real hard for a beaver to go up and around and the only choice is to go thru the conibear.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Also ordered the Ken Smythe books. When I started into the water a month or so ago I was working off of what I had read on here but hadn't actually thought about what Seldom said earlier in this thread. Think about "why" the animal is doing what/where. I have a river in front of the house. The other properties I have access to are all river. The bottom edge seems to be something I should really be focusing on learning.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

General Ottsc said:


> I'd go with just plain castor. Those younger beaver will be out looking for their own territory and will stop at any castor mound to investigate. I have heard good things about that woodchopper lure though.
> 
> Remember when using a foothold you'll want at least 3-4 ft of water to drown them. I'd say 4 ft to be on the safe side.
> 
> A castor mound set can be done with a conibear too but you'd need to find a natural funnel; like an indent in the bank or a spot where it'd be real hard for a beaver to go up and around and the only choice is to go thru the conibear.


I have one drowning rig setup on my property, but will likely pull it. I keep looking at the 2-3' of water going...I don't think that's enough. I have deeper water, but it's too far away from land/structure to create a decent drowning setup I think. Will have to assess.


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## Chriss83 (Sep 18, 2021)

Don't overthink beavers. They are not smart at all if they haven't been trapped much. Easy set away from them is put log in to shore and angle it downstream. Making a triangle if you will. And skinny end get a few fresh beaver chews. Or make your own. Do a caster mound with 2 bright sticks in middle and a 330 at whatever point in your funnel water depth and width for trap is right. If you look normally you can find these sets without looking. A bottom edge with a dive stick is also deadly


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

Ken Smythe's book is excellent. I use his system for it's ease of use and the minimum equipment. I've got to walk in quite a ways to set traps and the less weight I have to carry, the better. 

But after reading what Spade said on one post, I'm going to take his advice; pick one species and once you've become proficient at trapping said species, move to the next one. 

I've really been trying to slow down and ask myself what draws these animals to this particular area...why would they be here. Figure out the little details because it's the little things that are going to matter. And it's been quite an enjoyable experience taking the time to observe something that most people would walk by without a second thought.

The most entertaining thing for me so far is finding mink tracks working an area and you see their tracks stop at just about every hole or opening they can find. Especially if it's on a creek and the creek is iced over. It's cool to see where they go.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

General Ottsc said:


> pick one species and once you've become proficient at trapping said species, move to the next one.


 That is exactly what I did decades ago(1970) with red fox, then mink, and finally coyotes. Actually it's a philosophy I used in my welding career, it's all about focus and desire to be as proficient as possible and beyond just being capable!

In fact I took my coyote trapping a step further than the rest once I uncovered all the facets of the coyote or at least the facets I kept finding. I quit deer hunting, fishing, and trapping all other furbearers including mink which I love to trap and I really dedicated myself to spending 365 days a year on coyote.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

I just reread my reply and I see where someone might ask, “what in the heck are you doing with coyotes 365 days a year?” And that’s a fair question. The majority of my time spent doing something with coyotes is studying their inherent behaviors and of course, there’s my scent testing.

Mink is another fur-bearer where I found it pays huge dividends understanding their inherent behaviors. If you want your mink catch rate to go up, know why the mink does what it does!


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

You are an inspiration to us all, Seldom. I'll trap canines one day. Until then, I'll keep plugging away with the water critters. I know the canines are in the area I trap. I've been seeing a big uptick in fox tracks lately. Not too many coyote though.

I did see a big buck mink working a creek a few weeks ago and I watched where he was going. Didn't seem like he had a particular place to go, so I'm not sure why he was there. But it certainly was cool to see!


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Drowning rig has been pulled. Not enough water depth at my property on my side of the river. I watched the river for a bit yesterday afternoon and realized I have lots of spots I should be setting BE's. So...today I re-worked things and now we wait. 

Really focusing in on the water side of things. My land stuff is still there, but totally just dinking around. The water on the hand I've been studying. Here's what I've learned so far. I don't have any feeds for rats on my property. I had one den, but then the water levels dropped and they stopped using it. They do still travel the property regularly, it's just not always on the surface where it's visible. 

The colony trap connecting took me a bit of time to figure out. After moving it to a few different spots that I thought would be better than the catch site...it's back in the catch site which I've now learned is an underwater travel site. Which lead me to really look hard and find a few more...which are now BE sets.

Mink pocket sets baffle me. But then I haven't seen any mink sign up or down the river quite a ways so it my not be my sets. So...the focus is on catching traveling rats. 

Really looking forward to reading Smythe's book. My epiphany with the colony trap was that it was setup on a bottom edge when it caight. Now all I see in the river everywhere are bottom edges when I look at it.








General Ottsc said:


> Ken Smythe's book is excellent. I use his system for it's ease of use and the minimum equipment. I've got to walk in quite a ways to set traps and the less weight I have to carry, the better.
> 
> But after reading what Spade said on one post, I'm going to take his advice; pick one species and once you've become proficient at trapping said species, move to the next one.
> 
> ...


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Missed a fox last night a cable restraint. That may be the end of the cable restraint experiment.


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## Chriss83 (Sep 18, 2021)

BumpRacerX said:


> Missed a fox last night a cable restraint. That may be the end of the cable restraint experiment.


Seeing where the they xxxxxxxx suck (or legal ones do) statement came from? Lol.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Chriss83 said:


> Seeing where the they xxxxxxxx suck (or legal ones do) statement came from? Lol.


LOL kinda but upon further review it looks like this one might be user error. Which is why I'm of the mindset that I need to get in there and inspect every time I get a critter in that I don't end up with.

The Fox literally walked right through the loop of the cable restraint without it tightening up. Looks like a little bit of snow/ice buildup in the wrong spot foiled me.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Also finally have me a little something moving from the water on land. Tracks were a little too snow covered and I'm too inexperienced to determine exactly what. Another mink maybe?


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

First ever bottom edge connection! The day after making the set!


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Congratulations!!! Love them BE’s!!


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Better pic of the overall lay of the land. This seems like a spot that mink would be working underwater.

And it connected.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Two BE set locations immediately jump right out at me in your photo.


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## Chriss83 (Sep 18, 2021)

BumpRacerX said:


> First ever bottom edge connection! The day after making the set!
> 
> View attachment 812804
> 
> ...


Congrats! One of the catches I remember best was my first bottom edge mink!


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Now that you’ve had success with a BE, why did you have success? You certainly have an idea of how a BE works but why did it work there is the educational question? Why was the mink at the same place your trap was? What was it doing? Where was it going? Why was it going anywhere? LOL Yup, those are the questions that will make you a better mink trapper Who uses BEs.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Seldom said:


> Two BE set locations immediately jump right out at me in your photo.


I may have them set already. I have two locations set with BE's. The one that produced I left the trap stake up for the photo so I could see the placement. Ideally in review, I think it might need to slightly further back towards the bridge but not much. The next point towards the bridge I have set. There's a stick balancing on top of the trap for a cheater indicator of a trap fire. 




Seldom said:


> Now that you’ve had success with a BE, why did you have success? You certainly have an idea of how a BE works but why did it work there is the educational question? Why was the mink at the same place your trap was? What was it doing? Where was it going? Why was it going anywhere? LOL Yup, those are the questions that will make you a better mink trapper Who uses BEs.


Yesterday when I decided to setup BE's for the first time, I took a close look at the water and what was in it. Minnows, decent sized ones are in the pockets that line this side of the river. I figured I had a vertical edge wall with bait and points for a mink to hunt/work. When I caught my other mink, it was clearly hunting muskrat. But I don't have any muskrat running around right now, so guarding that set location with a million traps makes no sense.

That's the best I have at this point. Mink was down in the water hunting. Bridge gets it in the water not running around on land.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

IMHO, you’re thinking in the right direction.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Empty traps this morning. Need to order some gloves to wear. Hands in the river on metal at sub zero air temps.

Ouch.

Last night's Facebook marketplace score.

6*110
2*220
4*330
Plus some miscellaneous stuff. Snares for beaver, stand, setters, wire. I think I did okay at $80 for the lot. Going to take a ride in a bit and scout another bridge that I think I can trap.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

I have officially found a hot spot for mink. Back to back catches in the same BE. This one is smaller than yesterday's. 

Lots of tracks on shore looking for food in pockets. I'm going to stick with what's working for me on this BE.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Now that you’ve caught a couple, do you know how to take care of them?


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Seldom said:


> Now that you’ve caught a couple, do you know how to take care of them?


I've officially hit that point where I can't just take them all to the taxidermist. The last two were dried, wrapped in a paper bag and frozen. Watched a few YouTube's and plan on making a run at them as soon as the fur stretchers come in. Any advice you can offer I'd greatly appreciate.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

From the Fur Harvester's Pelt Handling Manual pg 17
Mink - Cased fur in, saddle left on, inspection window.
The very first step, as with any pelt handling, is to have a clean, dry mink, free of mud, burrs and dirt. If your mink is completely dry, one must pay attention to singe. Lightly dampen the pelt before removing it from the carcass. The best method is a spray bottle. Adjust the spray to a fine mist. Do not soak the pelt, but rather dampen the fur until it is moist when touched.
SKINNING THE MINK
Begin by removing the front legs. This makes the job easier when trying to pull the pelt free later on. Next, cut from one back leg to the other. The cut is on the belly side of the vent hole. Place the one leg in some form of holding device and pull on the other leg. You will notice a natural line follows across from paw to paw. By using this method, the fur harvester gains two things: increased length and the inspection area is enhanced. Both help improve the price paid. Remove the tail bone using a tail stripper. Proceed to pull the pelt down towards the front legs. If the mink is a male, you must remove the ***** bone. After pulling the pelt down to the front legs, work your fingers between the leg and body. Pull the leg through. When the front paws are already removed, this step is much easier. Finally, pull the pelt clear of the carcass using a knife to cut the ears, eyes, and nose free.
FLESHING
Before pinning the pelt with 5/8" push pins, it must be fleshed of fat and grease. Place the pelt on the board or fleshing beam with each hind leg on opposite sides of the board. Remove fat from the front leg area with a dull knife scraping the fat forward toward the leg hole. Do not remove the red saddle. The saddle on mink protects the skin from over scraping which can cause hair root damage. A mink with the saddle removed usually brings $2 to $3 less than a mink with the saddle on. If the saddle has excess fat under it, gently scrape the saddle pushing the grease and oil out.
Next, turn the pelt so the legs are opposite the tail. Make sure the pelt is straight on the board. Tip: Place the length measurement for the mink on your boards. This way, you know what size pelt you’re working with.
BOARDING
When boarding a mink we recommend a solid wood stretcher. Use a male board for males and a female board for females. Putting males on female boards to gain size will result in the skin being downgraded in size. Mark the sizes on your boards so that you don’t over- stretch the hide.
the pelt size. Begin pinning the tail in a slight pleating method. What you want to do is push as much fur into the inspection area as possible. You can use push pins, wire mesh, cardboard or whatever works best for you. Cut a piece of fur out of the belly side to enhance the inspection area. Next, tuck the front legs inside the pelt. Insert a belly board so that when the pelt dries it can be easily removed from the stretcher. Finally, hang the pelt up with nose down allowing the oil to run down toward the head. Allow two or three days at 55o-60oF for drying. Remove from board and store in a cool dry place until shipping.
Incorrect
Leg Handling
vs Correct
vs Correct
Mink Board Sizes
Board Length = 36 inches
Incorrect
Inspection Window

Scrape the fat and grease from the belly area. Remember to wipe the fur clean of any excess oil with a paper towel. Mink fur can be singed so be careful. Follow that by pinning the hind legs on the back of the board with the tail. Check the board measurement with the pelt, match the best line with
Male
Mink Pelt Size 2X Over 23” 1X 21” - 23” LG 19” - 21” LM 17” - 19” MD-SMUnder 17”
Over 58.5cm 53-58.5 cm 48-53cm 43-48cm Under 43cm
Female
Mink Pelt Size 1X Over 19” LG 17” - 19” MD-SMUnder 17”
Over 48cm 43-48cm Under 43cm
TIP: Tuck front legs inside the pelt.
Male
2” = 1 7/8” 6” = 2 1/2”
12” = 3”
24” = 3 3/4”
36” = 4 1/2”
Female
2” = 1 1/2” 6” = 2 3/8”
12” = 2 5/8”
24” = 3 1/4”
36” = 3 1/2”

17


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Thank you. Is there a better way I should be storing them before I put them up? My main concern is heat for drying. I don't have a heated spot to do that in right now.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

I always skinned mine, rolled them up, and froze them. There are people who freeze the critters while though. Room temps around 50* will work well with some air movement. I know of trappers who put-up fur in their bsements and of course heated garages. Isn't it interesting how trapping an animal leads you to other aspects of trapping? LOL Remember, do your homework to avoid that "oh my god, what do I do now" moment!


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## nichola8 (Oct 7, 2013)

I freeze mine whole, pull them out and hang them in the basement in small batches to thaw, I clean them "as kids and work load allows". As SELDOM stated, clean then roll up fur side out and put in the freezer or if you have time and stretchers available....get them hanging. 

I usually spread my work out to keep me busy when winter gets boring.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Appreciate the insight and instruction fellas. 

Quiet day on the line. Found the hot 110 knocked over this afternoon. Was definitely standing this morning. Keep tinkering with things trying to catch rats again. Added Lenon Muskrat Super All Call to a couple sets. We'll see if that does the trick. Thinking you can't catch what isn't there.

Yesterday I snuck out in the afternoon and set a couple BE at a different place. Check today showed them empty as well. But also revealed a much better point to set at the same place. Need to put waders on this weekend and move things a little there. Yesterday when I set it the creek was nearly frozen and the points were hard to see.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Pretty good chuckle yesterday. Standing at a sporting even for my son talking to some folks that live 1/2ish mile down river. Someone else asks how the trapping is going. Lady that lives 1/2 mile down river declares I better not be trapping her mink as she loves to watch them. Her husband comes up to me after and tell me to trap them all out plus please get after the beaver lol. 

Paddled 1.75 miles down river yesterday afternoon so I could look for sign. One spot just down river of the mink lover's house is loaded with sign. Couldn't get too close as I was in a carbon fiber canoe and didn't want to scrape the ice, but I'd guess mink based on what the tracks were doing on shore. The best part is...I have permission to trap that property. But my thought is...it's less than a mile from there to my place...eventually those mink will come to me?

Turned at 1.75 miles to head back up river. This is another property with a beaver problem I have permission on. Except it looks like the beaver is actively working the neighbor's birch tree. Might knock on a door and ask for permission or just try to find the run and blind set it. 

When I made it back up to my place, I spooked a small beaver or large rat. Didn't get much of a look at it. So I've still got stuff moving around my river frontage. Just a matter of connecting. Also, my daughter said a bird was hunting something on the water Saturday.


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## General Ottsc (Oct 5, 2017)

It's possible that the mink might come by your property eventually. But if I had permission and fresh sign, I'd set it.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

My taxidermist bill just got even more expensive!










The cable restraint did the job! I've been adjusting and watching and looking at tracks and adjusting and watching. And finally got it right!


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Was the CR wrapped around a leg with the neck? When I snared fox I used a 8” dia loop and 8” off the ground.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Seldom said:


> Was the CR wrapped around a leg with the neck? When I snared fox I used a 8” dia loop and 8” off the ground.


Yes, leg with the neck. I think with this CR it would be almost impossible to hold onto a Fox with just the neck. I had to get the CR positioned just right to get the fox to step through it. 

Also-
Thank you. On one of my earlier posts from a previous year you gave me some advice about making the fox step where I wanted it to. And that if I'd have done that, I'd have had the fox. With moving out here this fall, I was really able to spend more time looking at things every day it came through. Learning how it moves and responds to things. That advice was the best I've ever gotten.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

BumpRacerX said:


> Yes, leg with the neck. I think with this CR it would be almost impossible to hold onto a Fox with just the neck. I had to get the CR positioned just right to get the fox to step through it.
> 
> Also-
> Thank you. On one of my earlier posts from a previous year you gave me some advice about making the fox step where I wanted it to. And that if I'd have done that, I'd have had the fox. With moving out here this fall, I was really able to spend more time looking at things every day it came through. Learning how it moves and responds to things. That advice was the best I've ever gotten.


Congrats on the fox with good thinking on your part knowing you had to catch it in a particular manner and also a big THANK YOU! I’m trying to past some of my experience on to others that can use a helping hand.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Didn't reset the CR as I figured one was enough. My son reminded me last night that Granny (my mother) really wants a Fox fur for her living room. Decided to reset it today instead of last night.

Never fails, Fox came through at 2am and 7:30am working the CR set beautifully. 

Sigh.

Lots of tracks in a few spots on the river. Another Mink came through but none of the BE's connected.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Foot and a half deep BE 110 connected on a rat. Kind of surprised in that this BE just didn't look great to me visually. It was one of the originals put in at the same time as the magic mink BE. I moved a couple of rocks around as I suspected potentially the targets were swimming the surface close to shore and avoiding this 110. Two well placed rocks solved that problem as well as creating a targeted current forcing the rat to the bottom out around the point vs over it. 

Or at least that's my theory. Probably makes little difference but hey. I'm using this thread as my personal log and it's an observation.


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Here is some food-for-thought that might help you when choosing BE set locations. Rats are traveling and mink are hunting. Think about these 2 facts, yes facts, when looking for a BE set location.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Had another muskrat this morning. Same BE as the other BE rat from last week. Walked down the hill to the river, sure enough there was a rat swimming right in front of my landing. Figured I blew it as I watched it swim away. Went and checked the BE row, sure enough...Same 110.

I have a BE 10' downstream. And another BE 10' upstream. Yet this is the magic one for muskrats. There's four BE's in that stretch, all roughly 10' apart. The one in position 2 has caught all two rats, the one in position 4 two mink. It's weird how they miss the rest but connect on these. 

My BE's at another location haven't connected yet. Neighbor downstream 1/4 mile or so managed a nice grey fox the other night.


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## pigeon (Jan 25, 2009)

Sounds like u got it down !


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Well BR you've tasted success and understand HOW but you don't know WHY yet. The answer to consistent success is always in the WHY!


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Definitely still working on the WHY on the rats. Never really took the time to study them. I think catching them would be much easier on a marsh or pond then it is here on the river. Without food or a den I have to catch them traveling through.

Mink I feel better about. I've spent 200+ hours on this river every year since 2014. Watched a lot of mink hunting both in and out of the water. Fascinatingly cute killers they are.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Can I get a track ID please.

Is this an otter? 

It was out on my island as well as playing/hunting in one of my springs that feed Into the river.


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## pigeon (Jan 25, 2009)

BumpRacerX said:


> Can I get a track ID please.
> 
> Is this an otter?
> 
> ...


I say mink


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## 9 (Jan 17, 2000)

Mink all day long! A tip, notice the mink's gait which is very inherent to the mustelid family.


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## BumpRacerX (Dec 31, 2009)

Pulled my traps from the other location yesterday. Figured close enough to the end and haven't connected with anything (not seen any sign).

While I had the waders on, I shifted things slightly on my property. I previously had a 110 on each side of this log. Now the log is butted up against shore with only one 110 on it.

Sure enough it hit with less than a 24 hour soak. Maybe coincidence. Maybe I shifted the water flow just enough to keep the rats on bottom. Also cool. This thing had a mouth full of vegetation.


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