# Reglazing bathtub



## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Anybody have this done? How much?

Redoing the bathroom in the next couple of weeks and was thinking of doing the tub also seeing how most everything in the room will be new. Tub is in great shape (no cracks or chips) just old. 40 years old. Might just need a good cleaning and polishing.


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## Radar420 (Oct 7, 2004)

My folks went this through this same situation a few years ago. From research my dad did reglazing a tub doesn't really last that long and he didn't think it was worth it in the long run. They ended up purchasing a bathtub liner that fit right into the existing tub and then had all new tile put in around it. Looks great.


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## Joel/AK (Jan 12, 2013)

We just had a bath tub re glazed. Came out good but can't speak of the longitivity of the job.

It's a '70's 4ft corner unit and it was cheaper to re glaze it vs buying new. It was blue. Since most corner units are 5 ft, we went this route.

Haven't gotten the bill yet but it will be between 4-500.


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## The Nailer (Feb 7, 2000)

I had it done once a long time ago.It turned out great and at that time (mid 80's) it was about $225. Can't speak to how long it will last as I moved about two years after having it done.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Mike,

If you're re-doing the bathroom does that mean new tiles around the tub enclosure? If so, get rid of the tub. 

The only time you wanna have it painted, (that's what it is), is when the wall tiles are in good shape and you need a temporary fix. This is the cheap way.

A better way is to get a liner, but that costs more. Again, if you're doing a major remod, take the tub to the curb.

Jaz


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## MI.FISH-N-HUNTER (Feb 11, 2010)

Parents had one done during a remodel job, lasted 4-5 years, once it starts to flake it comes off in chunks .

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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Mike,
> 
> If you're re-doing the bathroom does that mean new tiles around the tub enclosure? If so, get rid of the tub.
> 
> ...


Yes all new tile around the tub, new floor tile, new vanity and top and new fixures.

Too much work for me to take the tub out. We don't use the tub for baths just as a shower. Tub is fine but I just thought to shine it up a bit.


Probably start a little demo this week. Got the tile, vanity and top.


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## hommer23 (Nov 20, 2012)

What about a Sterling tub/shower unit? For the cost of refinishing the old tub and new tile you could put a walk in shower unit with seats in the corner and use it the same day. I put one in for my in-laws 6 years ago, since then no leaks and no more stepping over the tub wall. If I remember right the price was around $750 with a new shower door and drain.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Tell us what the top edge of the tub looks like after you remove the wall tiles and substrate. You may change your mind.

If the tub and tilework are 40 years old, the tiles were installed with thick mud method and the whole thing is liable to be 1 1/4" thick or so. 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Tell us what the top edge of the tub looks like after you remove the wall tiles and substrate. You may change your mind.
> 
> If the tub and tilework are 40 years old, the tiles were installed with thick mud method and the whole thing is liable to be 1 1/4" thick or so.
> 
> Jaz


Tiles are set on 1/2" thick mortar with dry wall behind.


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## rodmen (Jan 14, 2014)

I thought this was a fishing site not home improvement ?come on


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

rodmen said:


> I thought this was a fishing site not home improvement ?come on


Did you read the title of this forum? come on!!


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Mike said:


> Tiles are set on 1/2" thick mortar with dry wall behind.


OK, that's not as good a method but thickness wise it's probably thicker. The tiles are 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 out from the studs. See how it goes. You may have to redo it in a similar method.

Did you demo that area yet? Any plan on how you're gonna re install yet? Any plans to waterproof the installation this time?

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> OK, that's not as good a method but thickness wise it's probably thicker. The tiles are 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 out from the studs. See how it goes. You may have to redo it in a similar method.
> 
> Did you demo that area yet? Any plan on how you're gonna re install yet? Any plans to waterproof the installation this time?
> 
> Jaz


Took a few off the edge just to test how hard it would come off. Will be taking off drywall and using cement board. Comes off fairly easy with chisel.

Will start this afternoon and tomorrow.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

OK, so you're removing everything down to the studs. I'm asking how are you building it out the same as it was? You now have an inch or more of "wall" then the tiles. If you just install 1/2" tile backer, you're out only 1/2".

That's not gonna work out so good. You'l have problems with the tub's hanging flange and discoloration on the top edge, the part you see.

As for "waterproofing", concrete backer is not waterproofing, it's waterproof, but does not make the installation waterproof. Do you follow that? You may not need this tub enclosure to be waterproof, just axing. Me, I'd like it to be waterproof and watertight. 

Jaz


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## grabbingills87 (Dec 30, 2013)

If your going this far why don't you install a sterling shower stall? there are not to expensive to install and look great when done, you can run drywall to the edges, I install them for a living they work great, the only problem with glazing I have seen is with dark colors like that is it will eventually bleed through then your stuck with that.


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> OK, so you're removing everything down to the studs. I'm asking how are you building it out the same as it was? You now have an inch or more of "wall" then the tiles. If you just install 1/2" tile backer, you're out only 1/2".
> 
> That's not gonna work out so good. You'l have problems with the tub's hanging flange and discoloration on the top edge, the part you see.
> 
> ...


I can see why it was built up partially due to the old bullnose tile. It needed to be built up to lay flat with the rest of the tile.

Will be demoing today and I will see about the tub edge.

No tub surround for us. We don't like it. We like tile.


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Wire mesh behind some of the wall. The edges and 18" from the ceiling down is drywall.

One wall done, onto the next. Might have it complete done by mid afternoon.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Mike said:


> No tub surround for us. We don't like it. We like tile.


Well yea, a plastic tub surround cheapens the house. It may be ok for the basement or hunting cabin or even a small house with only 1 bathroom, where being out of order for a few weeks would be a problem.

Lets us know how the tub/wall intersection looks like. I already know, but how you gonna work with that? 

The main thing is to do it right. Tub surrounds are not as critical as stall showers. But done like many handymen do these days, and you're liable to have a problem too.

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Well yea, a plastic tub surround cheapens the house. It may be ok for the basement or hunting cabin or even a small house with only 1 bathroom, where being out of order for a few weeks would be a problem.
> 
> Lets us know how the tub/wall intersection looks like. I already know, but how you gonna work with that?
> 
> ...


2 end walls are out. Working on the back wall now. End of the tub are 1/2" away from the studs. It has about a 3/8 curled lip. Pretty darn clean.

Got a half bath downstairs for a shower.


When we go pick up the vanity and top tomorrow I might look at tubs. New tub would make it look more complete. We'll see what they got.

Old tub is cast iron. Gonna need some young backs and arms to get it down stairs.


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## Reel_Addiction (Apr 18, 2012)

If its cast just bust it up with a sledge hammer if you're not going to save it. 

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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

> If its cast just bust it up with a sledge hammer


Absolutely, that's how you remove a cast iron tub. 






No wonder you claim it still looks decent, it's cast iron not steel. But 40 years is stretching it. 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

If its too hard to remove whole might just do it that way.

All 3 walls have been removed.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Mike,

That tub weighs 300 lb. you're not the first person to remove an iron tub. But, give it a try and report back. 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Mike,
> 
> That tub weighs 300 lb. you're not the first person to remove an iron tub. But, give it a try and report back.
> 
> Jaz


Might have 2 younger guys available this afternoon. Just take it out and straight down the stairs and out the front door. Straight shot.

First guess was the tub weighs 250. I was close.


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## Frozenfish (Dec 20, 2004)




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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Frozenfish said:


>











Tub is out. Will replumb shower valve and drain tomorrow. Install new tub on Monday.

Anyone need a tub as a planter? 

Drain was a bugger to remove. Ended up using a air chisel to spin it out.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Looks like there was no vapor barrier on the walls. That figures since you earlier said there was drywall on the studs and 1/2" of mud over that. I would have thought they had done the mud over the studs without the drywall. Drywall back there by the way, is not recommended or approved.

I recommend you try to do a better job than what was there. Was the house built in the '70's, or earlier? Be sure to install a moisture barrier or surface waterproofing. 

Are you retiling the floor, going right over it?

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Looks like there was no vapor barrier on the walls. That figures since you earlier said there was drywall on the studs and 1/2" of mud over that. I would have thought they had done the mud over the studs without the drywall. Drywall back there by the way, is not recommended or approved.
> 
> I recommend you try to do a better job than what was there. Was the house built in the '70's, or earlier? Be sure to install a moisture barrier or surface waterproofing.
> 
> ...


House was built in '68. Mostly by the original owner. I'm sure he subbed out some work. The outside wall is insulated and the normal vapor barrier (which is trashed right now, will be replacing with new) Back wall is the closet for the bedroom (no insulation there)

The open area was 1" mud and wire with tile on top. 1/2" where the dry wall is that you can see.

Yes, new tile for the floor. Going right over it. Good solid base. No problem with the extra height.

Tub was definitely cast iron.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

I was asking if there was at least a vapor retarder or barrier on the studs in regards to the tile installation in a wet area. I'm not talking about the insulation. And I'm suggesting you install a surface waterproofing on your new concrete backer before you install the tiles. 

You keep side stepping that issue which sounds like you're not gonna "bother". 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> I was asking if there was at least a vapor retarder or barrier on the studs in regards to the tile installation in a wet area. I'm not talking about the insulation. And I'm suggesting you install a surface waterproofing on your new concrete backer before you install the tiles.
> 
> You keep side stepping that issue which sounds like you're not gonna "bother".
> 
> Jaz


Did not know what you meant other than the vapor barrier on the insulation.


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## Backlash (May 27, 2001)

You should water proof your backer board Mike. It is like a thick paint you brush on and let it dry before you tile. A membrane for say on the cement board. Extra waterproof/security in case you develop a leak. I did the walls in the shower, and the floor. 

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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Tub is tiled and grouted. Putting up the door tomorrow then starting on the floor. Then comes the vanity and top.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

What's the installation method for the floor? 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> What's the installation method for the floor?
> 
> Jaz


Tile 12x12.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Ok, Ok, you wanna keep it a secret. Tile 12x12, is not a method. 

I know you've got more skills than the average h.o. but I was offering advice just in case you don't know, and don't know that you don't know. 

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Ok, Ok, you wanna keep it a secret. Tile 12x12, is not a method.
> 
> I know you've got more skills than the average h.o. but I was offering advice just in case you don't know, and don't know that you don't know.
> 
> Jaz


Same color and pattern as the tub. Running bond. 1/8" grout line.
Going right over the tile that is there (1" squares on 1" bed).

Will post pics of before and after when done. Going from 1960's to present.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Ok Mike, I didn't recall whether you were going over or using another method. Sounds good.

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Jaz said:


> Ok Mike, I didn't recall whether you were going over or using another method. Sounds good.
> 
> Jaz


Figured why rip up a perfectly good solid bed. Got enough room to go the extra height.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Absolutely, that's what I'd do and have done dozens of times. Just use a good modified thin set and proper troweling technique. Mapei makes a primer just for this purpose in case you have any doubts. But with 1x1 mosaics you should be fine.

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Will be putting the finishing touches on the major items and getting everything useable today. Wife still needs to decide on paint and still waiting for 2 medicine cabinets to arrive. But the tub/shower, toilet and vanity will be in use.


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

All major work is done. Bathroom fully functional. Now just some small electrical work and drywall then the last job of new paint.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

Good deal, glad to see you're almost done.  Don't forget to post some pics.

Jaz


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Here's a before and after of the tub area















After















With doors installed









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