# Technique Critique - float, drift, spoon, plug, corkie



## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

Ok, so I spent my weekend fishing the Ausable. I didn't realize how much I miss that damn river....and after two days of fishing, now I'm jonesing. So instead of fighting over BS, lets talk technique so newbies like me can get better. Technique need not be Ausable specific, but bonus points if it is. 

Current rods are 9 ft with 8 lb maxima on one and 8 lb pline on the other. Gotta practice those knots! I believe I need to find another reel before the steelies come in good so I can have 4-6 lb on it too. Do you do a mono backer then fluoro, or just fluoro for the whole thing? Differences between maxima and p-line...besides $10 per reel?

So, I'm pretty comfortable running drifting spawn. I use a 4 ft leader or so, tied to the swivel on the end of a snap swivel, then this weekend was right around 1/8-3/8 oz of lead, on the snap of the snap swivel. Occasional snags, dependant upon location. 1 fish...actually, first fish on drift. Biggest problem is distinguishing between "bounce" and "hit". I have read of using a bead above the knot on the swivel, then hanging your lead off the line, sorta like a slip bobber.

Floats, my biggest frustration is casting distance. Just using small removeable split shot. First one at 18-24" above my hook, then staggered to get a good float. Biggest frustration is that I can't cast very far. Bigger diameter floats with more shot holding it down? I was just using spawn here too. In this case, I'm using a 6 foot leader, then my whole rig is attached to the leader (float, lead and hook) Do you still use floats in your spawn bags when fishing this way, or are they just eggs so the presentation is more natural? 

Now, spoons....every time I use a spoon, it's just a recipe for frustration. Where should I be casting? Upstream? Cross? Down? I have trouble keeping the spoon at the right depth. Current is a factor, retrieval is a factor. Again, it seems that if the spoon is the "right size"....I'm not able to get it out there. (little cleo, KO, etc)

I won't even talk about plugs. This is too advanced for me right now. They either dive too deep, or hang out on the surface. 

Finally, corkies, spin n glo, popcorn...I've got a decent selection in my bag...but don't really know when to use them...or how to rig them, so any suggestions would be helpful.

This almost skips over jigs, flys, etc.


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## ausable_steelhead (Sep 30, 2002)

First off, don't over-load yourself. Learn drifting properly, and bobbers. Bottom-bouncing the AS can be tricky, but the biggest mistake is using too much weight. Normal flow(1100-1400cfs) a 1/4oz or #1 pencil is best. You don't need a #2(3/8oz) until you get around 1500-1600+cfs. If it's low water, like 800-900cfs, run a #0(1/8oz). Once you fish enough, you'll learn what bottom and fish feel like better, but bottom "ticks", while fish "tap". A bite feels more lively than bottom, and usually has some pull to it. When in doubt, set the hook. For salmon and fall steelhead, run a 30" leader. I only go a bit longer in the winter.

Bobbers can be as simple or complicated as you want. In really slow water or shallower runs(<5'), one larger shot or smaller egg sinker will do. For more current and depth, I like to stagger them. Basic rigging is bigger and more bulk near your bobber, and less and lighter as you go down. On the AS, 5-7 shot usually is adequate in normal flows. Always adjust if you feel the need. From shore, if a long cast is needed, stick with drift fishing. Save bobbers for closer runs or shorter casts.

Really, a bobber should be used by a newer guy only if it's really needed. I know it's been the cool thing to do for awhile now, but in most instances, especially on the AS, bottom bouncing will get it done.


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## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

When I was drifting 3/8, it was right at the dam in the current channel. Actually, it would start out on the far side of the current channel, then sweep back across it without a tick, then pick it back up on the other side...then if let drift long enough, snag  

I didn't have enough time to really do much exploring. Hoping for next week sometime.


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## jmaddog8807 (Oct 6, 2009)

best advice I can give you on a hit is usually its one..two..three and each tap you can feel the pull a little more. Like ausable steel said if you think its a hit set the hook.


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

I run Maxima Ultragreen for my mainline for bottom bouncing, and just use flourocarbon for my leader. Take a piece of flouro, and hold it underwater, and see if you can see it. You won't be able to. Flouro is too stiff, and expensive for me to use for mainline. But it makes great leader material.

Heavier floats, and weights allow you to cast further. Check out slip bobbers, as you can easily adjust your depth. And I disagree with Jon that bobbers are overrated on the Ausable. I am starting to think that entire river is bobber water. :yikes: But I do love to bottom bounce, and feel the YANK from time to time. 

Snags just stop your line. Bites pull back at least a little.


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## wyandot (Dec 5, 2013)

I'd stick with mono for main line, I like suffix elite for my drift rods. Try raven's fx series slip float, they're long and slender and cast quite well.I will agree with A.S., float fishing is effective, but I'd focus on one tactic at a time.


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## jacks300ultra (Mar 24, 2011)

As was previously stated, don't try to learn all these techniques at once. Focus on BB first then move to float/bobber fishing. 
Though I prefer to float fish (centerpin) it is a little difficult on the Ausauble unless your in a boat. If you BB you can be alot more theroux and will probably be decently successful once you get it figured out.


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## ausable_steelhead (Sep 30, 2002)

Fishndude said:


> I run Maxima Ultragreen for my mainline for bottom bouncing, and just use flourocarbon for my leader. Take a piece of flouro, and hold it underwater, and see if you can see it. You won't be able to. Flouro is too stiff, and expensive for me to use for mainline. But it makes great leader material.
> 
> Heavier floats, and weights allow you to cast further. Check out slip bobbers, as you can easily adjust your depth. And I disagree with Jon that bobbers are overrated on the Ausable. I am starting to think that entire river is bobber water. :yikes: But I do love to bottom bounce, and feel the YANK from time to time.
> 
> Snags just stop your line. Bites pull back at least a little.


You fish from a boat 99% of the time Breck, that was my point :lol:! From shore, and being somewhat newer, he's better off getting bottom-bouncing down. Bobbers work best for guys who know how it goes on the AS. Different river than most for that, it seems. The last couple years I've watched many a guy bobbing the winter holes from shore like they're fishing Manistee. Most of the time, they're well short on depth. I just keep drifting and hook my fish.

I have a rule for setting the hook drift fishing, mostly regarding winter steelhead; tap-tap...pull. When they pull, they have it IN their mouth. Sometimes setting a tap or two early, simply rolls a fish or flat out misses them. In winter, they tend to mouth it more. You do get plenty that just take it though ...


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## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

ugh...i missed a lot of fish i think


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

ausable_steelhead said:


> tap-tap...pull. ...


I really think that the tap-tap, PULL, and the first 30 seconds of fight are the most fun of Steelhead fishing, for me. Landing a fish is fun. Having a real brute take me for a ride is exhilarating. But the actual bite, and the first bit of fight is just a total thrill. It won't be long, now.

And he is right. For bank fishing the Ausable, you should search out, and figure out good bottom bouncing runs/holes. There are plenty of places you can have great fishing from shore on the river. There are probably a few early Steelies working into the river now. The temps, and water levels have been perfect.


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

Stay away from removalble shot, they add a ton of twist. keep it simple. bobber, shot, hook, the weak spot is your knot and first foot above it, and line will part there 99% of the time, so you don't lose bobber(often) 

Bottom bouncing stay away from all the bells and wistles, hook and weight, go light as possible, when it stops jam it! of the many fish I've hooked B.B. only a few have ''tuged'' and when they did, it was because we were both late in detecting each other.

Spoons... hmmm, again light as possible and learn the Swing in moving water, however where spoons really shine is the frog water that is difficult to cover with other techniques, this water is especially productive in cold water, however will produce 365 in areas of fast water with slack water when they are on the move, if you really want to "learn" get one of Bill Herzog's books, he's good and has a lot of experience throwing them as do I. May I add color color color. It doesn't matter as long as it is; Crystal/Blue, Nickle /Blue, Gold/Blue, Brass/Blue, with all the popular accents at the proper times.


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