# First time RV buyer (mostly for use hunting) seeking advice



## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

I am currently in the market for a tow-behind RV, that can be towed behind my half-ton pickup with reasonable ease. I am looking for something that I can use for deer, grouse and turkey camps on the go, as well as to tour around Michigan and other states to take advantage of public land and camp sides both while hunting and while just out with my lady and dog. 

My basic requirements are that it can be reasonably towed behind my half-ton. Price range $12-25k. As far as layout goes, I'm leaning towards the ones that have one queen bed and one bunk set. No need for ATV storage / toy hauler, but some storage for camping items would be nice. Super luxury items like a flat screen TV is unnecessary, but I'd spend a few bucks extra for all the hook ups to do that myself some day down the road. 

I know next to nothing about which brand is reputable, quality, budget, etc. 

I also know next to nothing about what options are good to have for my purposes. How worth it are the pop out sofas and beds? What is a reasonable capability in terms of generator power? How big of a step up in power capability do I need to get air conditioning? 

If anybody has any advice as to what brands I should look into, and what bells and whistles are mandatory for what I want to do, or which are just good to have and worth the extra money, I'd really appreciate it. 

I'm posting on these forums because I really trust what a lot of guys have to say on here, and couldn't think of a better group to ask. 

Thanks,

Josh


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## Thirty pointer (Jan 1, 2015)

You won't hear this from the RV salesman but half ton trucks are really limited as to how much they will tow .My advice is find a friend that will let you pull theirs to get an idea of what your truck will do .


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

Thirty pointer said:


> You won't hear this from the RV salesman but half ton trucks are really limited as to how much they will tow .My advice is find a friend that will let you pull theirs to get an idea of what your truck will do .


Thanks for the feedback. I have definitely heard that from RV salesman. I take everything with a grain of salt from salesmen, which is part of why I'm asking you gents. That said, however, I would be shocked if there was not viable options of tow behind RVs for half-tons. 

I know half-tons are limited in what they can tow, but when I look at a lot of the newer tow-behind RVs, I am finding them weighing between 3,000 and 4,500 lbs. My Ram 1500 is rated to tow something close to double that, but I acknowledge maxing it out for regular towing is not a good way to look at it. My 24' bow rider boat weighs something like 5,000lbs all gassed up, trailer another 1500lbs, so I'm at about 6500 towing that thing, and my truck tows it no problem at all (however if I had to tow it often, I'd probably get a 2500 for my next truck just due to the wear and tear, but I only have to tow that boat a few times a year). How would an RV compare to towing a boat and trailer that weight 6,500-7,000? I'd imagine the shape and aerodynamics come in play. 

I see dozens and dozens of half-tons towing RVs as well.

Is there something I'm missing? Is there something wrong with towing an RV that weighs 4,000lbs, for 6,000 miles per year? I would be changing my diff fluid more often, but other than that I don't know of any problems, but am very open to hear any suggestions as to why it would not be advisable.


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## pike man (Feb 21, 2006)

SAFETY is the issue with a half ton truck. Find a RV that you like and ask the dealership if you can hook up and pull it out on the open road. Only then will you know if your half ton will handle it. I bought a toy hauler with a #6600 lb dry weight and had big trouble towing it with a half ton chevrolet. I went out and bought a 3/4 ton truck and I still have issues with control. If the dealership won't let you tow it before you sign the papers WALK ! Find a dealer you can work with it's not worth to have thousands tied up in a new RV and not be able to tow it.


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## Muskegonbow (Dec 31, 2006)

I bought a forest river wolf pup. It's small but I really like it. It sleeps 5 and is easily towed by my half ton pickup. I paid 10,700 brand new. I haven't used it for hunting yet just family camping.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

Muskegonbow said:


> I bought a forest river wolf pup. It's small but I really like it. It sleeps 5 and is easily towed by my half ton pickup. I paid 10,700 brand new. I haven't used it for hunting yet just family camping.


Thanks, I'll definitely take a look at that one. Any things about it that you've found limit you in any way, or things that are missing that you wish you had?

Edited: I just took a look, and that is EXACTLY the class I'm looking for. I like the layout with the queen bed and bunks (unloaded weighs about 3,000lbs, max loaded 4,000lbs). If anybody has any RVs or knows of them that are comparable to this Forest River Wolf Pup that Muskegonbow has, I'd love to hear about them as well. 

Thanks again!


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

pike man said:


> SAFETY is the issue with a half ton truck. Find a RV that you like and ask the dealership if you can hook up and pull it out on the open road. Only then will you know if your half ton will handle it. I bought a toy hauler with a #6600 lb dry weight and had big trouble towing it with a half ton chevrolet. I went out and bought a 3/4 ton truck and I still have issues with control. If the dealership won't let you tow it before you sign the papers WALK ! Find a dealer you can work with it's not worth to have thousands tied up in a new RV and not be able to tow it.


Agreed, but the ones I've been looking at are about half the weight of your 6600lb toy hauler, and I'd also imagine throwing a few toys in can up that by 500-1000lbs rather quick. Would you agree I'm in a different boat? 

I'll be due for a new truck in a few years (I'm stretching her out right now), but I'd like to avoid having to buy a 3/4 ton if I don't have to, as I prefer the ride of independent front suspensions. I'm really looking to find something that I can tow rather easily with my 5.7L Ram 1500. I would imagine if I found something around 3000-4000lbs I would be ok. What do you think?


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## john warren (Jan 25, 2005)

everything depends on how many will go with you. there are some fine uits a half ton will tow just fine.i have a 13 foot scamp that the wife and i love. they also make a 16 foot, and a 19 foot fifth wheel. all can be towed with as small as a ford ranger. check out their website "scamp camper trailers"
i had mine custom built and it came to $11,500 in 2011. there are a lot of other small trailers, lately. so take your time and shop around


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## kracker (Jan 25, 2013)

If you will be camping in the cold, stay away from anything with the fold out beds or pop-ups. The canvas covers condense and will soak your bedding. Also no fun folding up a wet or frozen camper. They also are problematic with leaks.


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## Thirty pointer (Jan 1, 2015)

Lamarsh said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I have definitely heard that from RV salesman. I take everything with a grain of salt from salesmen, which is part of why I'm asking you gents. That said, however, I would be shocked if there was not viable options of tow behind RVs for half-tons.
> 
> I know half-tons are limited in what they can tow, but when I look at a lot of the newer tow-behind RVs, I am finding them weighing between 3,000 and 4,500 lbs. My Ram 1500 is rated to tow something close to double that, but I acknowledge maxing it out for regular towing is not a good way to look at it. My 24' bow rider boat weighs something like 5,000lbs all gassed up, trailer another 1500lbs, so I'm at about 6500 towing that thing, and my truck tows it no problem at all (however if I had to tow it often, I'd probably get a 2500 for my next truck just due to the wear and tear, but I only have to tow that boat a few times a year). How would an RV compare to towing a boat and trailer that weight 6,500-7,000? I'd imagine the shape and aerodynamics come in play.
> 
> ...





Lamarsh said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I have definitely heard that from RV salesman. I take everything with a grain of salt from salesmen, which is part of why I'm asking you gents. That said, however, I would be shocked if there was not viable options of tow behind RVs for half-tons.
> 
> I know half-tons are limited in what they can tow, but when I look at a lot of the newer tow-behind RVs, I am finding them weighing between 3,000 and 4,500 lbs. My Ram 1500 is rated to tow something close to double that, but I acknowledge maxing it out for regular towing is not a good way to look at it. My 24' bow rider boat weighs something like 5,000lbs all gassed up, trailer another 1500lbs, so I'm at about 6500 towing that thing, and my truck tows it no problem at all (however if I had to tow it often, I'd probably get a 2500 for my next truck just due to the wear and tear, but I only have to tow that boat a few times a year). How would an RV compare to towing a boat and trailer that weight 6,500-7,000? I'd imagine the shape and aerodynamics come in play.
> 
> ...


Nothing wrong at all for short trips to deer camp but 6 hrs of constantly down shifting will over heat your transmission ( I know this from experience ) there are smaller camper trailers your half ton will pull easily .Just do yourself a favor and check out all of the variables it will save you grief .


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## bheary (Dec 29, 2010)

Lamarsh said:


> I am currently in the market for a tow-behind RV, that can be towed behind my half-ton pickup with reasonable ease. I am looking for something that I can use for deer, grouse and turkey camps on the go, as well as to tour around Michigan and other states to take advantage of public land and camp sides both while hunting and while just out with my lady and dog.
> 
> My basic requirements are that it can be reasonably towed behind my half-ton. Price range $12-25k. As far as layout goes, I'm leaning towards the ones that have one queen bed and one bunk set. No need for ATV storage / toy hauler, but some storage for camping items would be nice. Super luxury items like a flat screen TV is unnecessary, but I'd spend a few bucks extra for all the hook ups to do that myself some day down the road.
> 
> ...


I may have one for sale that I tow with my half ton with ease. It's a jayco 26bh, it weighs 4600lbs dry with a 2000lb payload. Do not, I repeat do not, go cheap on the hitch. 12k will buy a lot of trailer in the spring.


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## bheary (Dec 29, 2010)

You will hear don't buy Jayco don't buy forest river. I will say that I know of two people that have purchased new forest rivers and imho they are junk. My FIL bought a brand new Rockwood (high end forest river) and the inside has delamanination and Windows weren't sealed on all sides. My friend bought a cruiser and the roof leaked on the 3rd trip and the front end blew off on the highway. Watch the Haylett RV videos on YouTube you will learn what to look for, no different than a boat. Check every corner inside and out then check it twice


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## bowhunter426 (Oct 20, 2010)

Lamarsh said:


> Agreed, but the ones I've been looking at are about half the weight of your 6600lb toy hauler, and I'd also imagine throwing a few toys in can up that by 500-1000lbs rather quick. Would you agree I'm in a different boat?
> 
> I'll be due for a new truck in a few years (I'm stretching her out right now), but I'd like to avoid having to buy a 3/4 ton if I don't have to, as I prefer the ride of independent front suspensions. I'm really looking to find something that I can tow rather easily with my 5.7L Ram 1500. I would imagine if I found something around 3000-4000lbs I would be ok. What do you think?


If you have the 3.55 rear end or better you will have no problem pulling 7000lbs. I pull an enclosed car trailer and car that tips the scales at 7000 with my Ram and dont have a lick of trouble. The hemi has more than enough power and the wheelbase is plenty long on all models but maybe the regular cab short beds With good surge or electric brakes you will be golden. If you plan on towing more than 15,000 miles a year maybe consider a 3/4 diesel.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

Muskegonbow said:


> I bought a forest river wolf pup. It's small but I really like it. It sleeps 5 and is easily towed by my half ton pickup. I paid 10,700 brand new. I haven't used it for hunting yet just family camping.


I just bought a new Jayco Ultralite. 17 foot with an open floor plan. Sleep 4 comfortably. It's loaded and the bathroom is big, the shower has a half tub. Furnace ran nice before I put it way for the winter in October. Full size fridge and a big a/c unit in the roof with fan mode when you don't need to cool that will blow your hat off. I tow it with my conversion van with a v-6. I can't go cross country with it but I will use it everywhere here. I would look into any ultralite like Jayco or the Wolf Pups.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

bheary said:


> You will hear don't buy Jayco don't buy forest river. I will say that I know of two people that have purchased new forest rivers and imho they are junk. My FIL bought a brand new Rockwood (high end forest river) and the inside has delamanination and Windows weren't sealed on all sides. My friend bought a cruiser and the roof leaked on the 3rd trip and the front end blew off on the highway. Watch the Haylett RV videos on YouTube you will learn what to look for, no different than a boat. Check every corner inside and out then check it twice


One thing I like about the Jayco is it's an all one piece sidewall unit. Sealed well too.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

This is all really helpful and exactly the type of advice i'm looking for. I appreciate the responses. Keep em coming if you can, I'm very open to hear anything. I'm allowing myself 6-12 months for this purchase, no impulse buying, so I can make sure I get the right thing for the money.


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## bheary (Dec 29, 2010)

Look hard on craigslist in the spring


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## pike man (Feb 21, 2006)

The next thing to think about if you are going to use your unit during Deer Season is Heat. The battery will not run your fan and furnace for very long. You will need another power source. You can hook up a series of batteries or run a generator. If you run batteries you'll need to charge them during the day. I run a generator and have never had a problem with Heat, just something to think about. Others may have different ideas on this subject,


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## Jim Sn. (Sep 21, 2006)

Lots of info at www.rv.net


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## Yarcraft (Jul 15, 2006)

Your truck will handle a 7000 lb trailer without issues if you setup properly. Do some research and buy a good load leveling hitch with sway control. Make sure you don't exceed your gross combined weighting and rear axle gross weighting. Your max trailer rating in your manual does not mean anything. You could be 1000 or more pounds lighter on max trailer when you include your cargo and option content in the vehicle. The newer half ton trucks are basically as capable as 3/4 tons were 10 years ago.


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## john warren (Jan 25, 2005)

rpods are another unit that might suit you. if your like my wife and i , we basicly sleep in ours, once we get up and have breakfast we are off doing things and don;t see it again till dinner time. if on the other hand you will spend a lot of time sitting in it,, you will want more size.
and remember the dealer will always say you can't get one to pull with a 1/2 ton,,,they want to sell you a giant unit so they can make more money.


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

pike man said:


> The next thing to think about if you are going to use your unit during Deer Season is Heat. The battery will not run your fan and furnace for very long. You will need another power source. You can hook up a series of batteries or run a generator. If you run batteries you'll need to charge them during the day. I run a generator and have never had a problem with Heat, just something to think about. Others may have different ideas on this subject,


I use 2 6 volt golf cart batteries and I can run go an entire weekend while using the heat, water heater, fridge, and water pump. 6 volt batteries hold a charge longer than 12 volt.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

pike man said:


> The next thing to think about if you are going to use your unit during Deer Season is Heat. The battery will not run your fan and furnace for very long. You will need another power source. You can hook up a series of batteries or run a generator. If you run batteries you'll need to charge them during the day. I run a generator and have never had a problem with Heat, just something to think about. Others may have different ideas on this subject,


I'm looking to buy a little 1000-2000 watt gennie for my rig.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

Anybody know anything about this gennie? I know I should buy a Honda or Yamaha but for what I need it for this seems to be within my use range. When I camp for weeks at a time I use my portable solar panels and inverter but need to charge the dual batteries in my jayco ultralite.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56180-St...=1479266146&sr=1-61&keywords=yamaha+generator


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

pike man said:


> The next thing to think about if you are going to use your unit during Deer Season is Heat. The battery will not run your fan and furnace for very long. You will need another power source. You can hook up a series of batteries or run a generator. If you run batteries you'll need to charge them during the day. I run a generator and have never had a problem with Heat, just something to think about. Others may have different ideas on this subject,





MossyHorns said:


> I use 2 6 volt golf cart batteries and I can run go an entire weekend while using the heat, water heater, fridge, and water pump. 6 volt batteries hold a charge longer than 12 volt.


I don't know much about RVs, which is part of why I started this thread, but I was always under the impression that they come with generators for the 120v operation (the rest of the 12v DC stuff is battery). Aren't they powered with propane? I was under the impression that the furnace at least ran on propane....


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

Yo


Lamarsh said:


> I don't know much about RVs, which is part of why I started this thread, but I was always under the impression that they come with generators for the 120v operation (the rest of the 12v DC stuff is battery). Aren't they powered with propane? I was under the impression that the furnace at least ran on propane....


You need AC or a battery to ignite the gas for the refrigerator, water heater, and furnace. The furnace also needs power to run the fan.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

MossyHorns said:


> Yo
> 
> You need AC or a battery to ignite the gas for the refrigerator, water heater, and furnace. The furnace also needs power to run the fan.


Right, that was my understanding, but that major drawing items (refridgerator, water heater, furnace, etc), don't those all run on propane? You aren't completely limited to hooking up to a campsite's power, are you?


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

Lamarsh said:


> Right, that was my understanding, but that major drawing items (refridgerator, water heater, furnace, etc), don't those all run on propane? You aren't completely limited to hooking up to a campsite's power, are you?


Those items do run on propane. The water pump and lights use the most DC power. LED lights help a lot. I dry camped this summer in the Smokey Mountains and the water pump was the biggest drain on the batteries, because we had 4 of us taking daily showers.


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## pike man (Feb 21, 2006)

My Dad and I were camping in the UP during Deer Season the first year we had a new camper and the battery went dead in the middle of the night. It got very cold in that camper that night. I went hunting in the morning my Dad went to find a campsite with electricity. Since then we have always used a generator for power.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

pike man said:


> My Dad and I were camping in the UP during Deer Season the first year we had a new camper and the battery went dead in the middle of the night. It got very cold in that camper that night. I went hunting in the morning my Dad went to find a campsite with electricity. Since then we have always used a generator for power.


What do you bring, just one of those smaller, quiet inverter generators, like 2000-4000w range? If you didn't have that and were worried about losing a heat source, one of those Mr. Heater Buddies would be a good backup.


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

I use my trailer for the entire deer season now. I didn't originally purchase it for that use, but for the last six years it has been it into service for the fall and I love it now that I have figured out the quirks.

My thoughts....

Just do yourself a huge favor and buy a good inverter generator to start with. As far as how much power you need, that just depends on what you plan to run. I have a Champion 2000 watt inverter and it will run everything I need as long as I pay attention. I can use the microwave as long as the water pump r heater blower isn't running. Just have to plan a bit. Mine will actually run the ac as well, but not if anything else is on. You could go with a 3500 watt genie, but those are heavier and burn more gas. My 2000 will run 10-12 hrs on a gallon whereas a 3500 will go about 5 hrs. For $5 a day I can run mine constantly and never have to worry about a dead battery and a cold trailer. I didn't want the bigger one due to weight. Most of the 2000 watt inverters weigh about 50 lbs which allows me to just toss it in the trailer door and lock up when I leave.

Next is water issues in the cold. My trailer doesn't have heated tanks or an insulated floor. I drain my main water tank in October and bring 5 gallon jugs from home instead. I made a hose that hooks to the pump and goes into the jug. That way I never have to worry about frozen water. Due to the floor not being insulated though, my lines to the bathroom will freeze up if is below about 20 degrees. I just drain those out and use a gallon jug to flush the toilet and use the kitchen sink for hand washing when it is that cold.

If you do go with insulated floors and heated tanks, just remember that you will still have to drain everything if you are going to leave the trailer parked and don't plan to leave the furnace running for a few days. Same thing with the main fresh water tank. If the house battery goes dead it too will freeze.

As long as you have a plan for heat, water, and power the rest is just personal preference as far as size and layout. There are a ton of options that can be pulled with a half ton in your price range. I suggest looking at several different floor plans and thinking about how the storage will work. Most of them seem big at first, but throw three guys and all the gear in and things can seemed cramped and you will soon see many trailers aren't laid out very well. I like not having to constantly move ten things every time I need something. If you can find one that has a large storage area accessible from the outside, I would recommend going that route.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

jatc said:


> My thoughts....


I appreciate the input, that is very helpful. I never even thought about freezing fluids. This is why I made this thread, I knew there'd be guys that would point out things that I never thought of. I don't even have any close friends with RVs, so I'm glad all of you guys have brought all these issues up to me, and I appreciate it. 

I've had my eye on inverter generators anyways. I don't have a generator for my home, and thought those would be nice because they're portable. I've seen a few 2000w ones that can be doubled up together as a 4000w system, which I think is pretty cool, and would be nice flexibility for an RV as well--such as, you might only need the 2k generator for winter, but in summer when you run AC you might want to double up the inverter generators to 4k.... 

When we make hunting camps and pitch tents, we take craps in 5 gallon buckets--we just line them with kitchen garbage bags and put a toilet seat on top of the bucket to sit down on, and just tie off each bag and put the collection of sh*t bags in a large garbage bag for disposal at the end of the trip. I suppose this could be an option when using an RV in the winter as well. Terds freeze too, don't they lol?


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

Most rv's have two waste water holding tanks. Grey water (sink) and black (toilet). Put rv antifreeze in the tanks and everything is good to go.


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

jatc said:


> I use my trailer for the entire deer season now. I didn't originally purchase it for that use, but for the last six years it has been it into service for the fall and I love it now that I have figured out the quirks.
> 
> 
> My thoughts....
> ...


How big is your AC unit, because there is now way that a 2000 watt generator will run the AC in my Outback? Even if you can get your AC started with your generator, you are putting a lot of stress on your AC unit and generator and could damage them. I have a 3500 watt generator, but I rarely use it to run the AC.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

How long would it take to hook up your hitch connection to the tow vehicle and let your engine recharge the battery in a jamb? 1 hour? 2?


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

jatc said:


> I use my trailer for the entire deer season now. I didn't originally purchase it for that use, but for the last six years it has been it into service for the fall and I love it now that I have figured out the quirks.
> 
> My thoughts....
> 
> ...


How would you rate your Champion compared to others like Honda? Just as good at 1/2 the price? I like the $465 compared to $1,200 for a Honda.


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## skipper34 (Oct 13, 2005)

WAUB-MUKWA said:


> How would you rate your Champion compared to others like Honda? Just as good at 1/2 the price? I like the $465 compared to $1,200 for a Honda.


The champion is probably just as good power wise, but the noise is what I would not want in a deer camp, especially when trying to sleep at night. Of course I am a proud Honda generator owner so I am biased. IMO the extra money for a quiet running genset is worth it.


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

skipper34 said:


> The champion is probably just as good power wise, but the noise is what I would not want in a deer camp, especially when trying to sleep at night. Of course I am a proud Honda generator owner so I am biased. IMO the extra money for a quiet running genset is worth it.


My 2000 watt champion inverter is just as quiet as the 2000 watt hondas. Literally within 2 decibels.


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

MossyHorns said:


> How big is your AC unit, because there is now way that a 2000 watt generator will run the AC in my Outback? Even if you can get your AC started with your generator, you are putting a lot of stress on your AC unit and generator and could damage them. I have a 3500 watt generator, but I rarely use it to run the AC.



If you run the math for a 13 amp 13,500 btu unit with a 15 amp startup it works. Like I said, you just can't have any other load on it at the time. And no, I don't see how this hurts the generator or air conditioner at all. The biggest draw is at startup and if the generator has enough output to do that you are fine.

Of course, I'm not the type that thinks I need a diesel with 900 ft/lbs of torque to pull a 14 foot aluminum boat either.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

jatc said:


> My 2000 watt champion inverter is just as quiet as the 2000 watt hondas. Literally within 2 decibels.


I run dual deep cycles in my Jayco 17' ultralite. I have a couple 35 watt solar panels from my camp that I'll set up when we go in the Ottawa for a month at a time next year. I wouldn't run that champion until needed, basically to recharge the batteries after a few days. Propane will run everything else. I would fire up the water heater only 2 or 3 times a day just to heat the tank up. I used the camper the first 2 weeks of October but it was still 50-60* everyday and had full hookup at the campground. I found a good price for LED 921 bulbs online. I'll switch them all out this spring.


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## MossyHorns (Apr 14, 2011)

dt7 said:


> .
> 6. Hitch receiver on the RV bumper. If you have a cargo carrier you can add, makes hauling deer home easier. I had this and used it.


You have to be careful putting one of those bolt on hitch receivers on the bumper. A lot of people have lost bikes and other things, because those 4" tubes are made out of thin metal and like to twist. I reinforced my tube so I could haul my bikes, plus I run straps from the bike rack to the brackets for my rear slide.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

All this talk has me wanting to get my camper out of storage 3 months early!!


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## dt7 (Dec 3, 2008)

MossyHorns said:


> You have to be careful putting one of those bolt on hitch receivers on the bumper. A lot of people have lost bikes and other things, because those 4" tubes are made out of thin metal and like to twist. I reinforced my tube so I could haul my bikes, plus I run straps from the bike rack to the brackets for my rear slide.


You are correct, I should have specified... our's was actually bolted to the frame of the camper and boy was that nice


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## tdejong302 (Nov 28, 2004)

I prefer dual axle, tows better and incase of a flat you are not broke down. Yamaha 2000I or Honda 2000I generator. Buy the bigger one you won't be sorry (20ft.)... Slide out would be awesome for room. We bought a solar panel for $80 that works great during the summer. Deer season for furnace blower we run generator once a day. Good luck.


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## Martian (Apr 28, 2011)

I didn't read the whole thing, but I would ask, are you a mechanic. or mechanically inclined? I am not and we have had a couple. When they run right and get you there and back they are great, If they don't, they are money pits, and I am not even talking the gas. I have been told ( as many) the 2 happiest days of a motorhome owner is the day he gets, it , and the day he gets rid of it. but , good luck to you


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## Central U.P. (Jan 26, 2009)

Aerodynamics far 


Lamarsh said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I have definitely heard that from RV salesman. I take everything with a grain of salt from salesmen, which is part of why I'm asking you gents. That said, however, I would be shocked if there was not viable options of tow behind RVs for half-tons.
> 
> I know half-tons are limited in what they can tow, but when I look at a lot of the newer tow-behind RVs, I am finding them weighing between 3,000 and 4,500 lbs. My Ram 1500 is rated to tow something close to double that, but I acknowledge maxing it out for regular towing is not a good way to look at it. My 24' bow rider boat weighs something like 5,000lbs all gassed up, trailer another 1500lbs, so I'm at about 6500 towing that thing, and my truck tows it no problem at all (however if I had to tow it often, I'd probably get a 2500 for my next truck just due to the wear and tear, but I only have to tow that boat a few times a year). How would an RV compare to towing a boat and trailer that weight 6,500-7,000? I'd imagine the shape and aerodynamics come in play.
> 
> ...


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## Duckhunter66 (Nov 24, 2013)

Lamarsh,
I did not read the whole thread, however I am a first time RV'er and have a Passport 29' that I pull behind my 1500 Silverado with 5.3 V8 and drives fine.....BUT if you are looking for better control with weight then a hitch with "Sway Bar" control is the way to go, also having the POD for brake control on trailer is a must.


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

Duckhunter66 said:


> Lamarsh,
> I did not read the whole thread, however I am a first time RV'er and have a Passport 29' that I pull behind my 1500 Silverado with 5.3 V8 and drives fine.....BUT if you are looking for better control with weight then a hitch with "Sway Bar" control is the way to go, also having the POD for brake control on trailer is a must.


Sending PM


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## DanP (Mar 1, 2005)

I have a drawtite hitch with sway and bars for $75.00 Paid better than $550.00 when purchased. Used on a Colemen Utah until I sold it. Bars are 600 lbs depending on how big you go and tonged weight your looking may work for you. Utah was a base weight of about 2,500 can't tell you GVW. I agree a weight distribution hitch and sway control you will never
regret the purchase. Currently using a Blue Ox on my Dutchman Trailer


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## zapper (Sep 23, 2005)

I have a 1500 dodge 4x4 single cab that I pull a 24ft 5th wheel with ive pulled it to florida and back up through the mountains no problem ive also pulled a 28 ft fifth wheel with it thats no problem on flat land but I wouldnt pull it through the mountains the main thing is make sure your brakes on the camper work well and are adjusted properly I pull tag alongs daily for work and a fifth wheel pulls much nicer


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## Lamarsh (Aug 19, 2014)

zapper said:


> I have a 1500 dodge 4x4 single cab that I pull a 24ft 5th wheel with ive pulled it to florida and back up through the mountains no problem ive also pulled a 28 ft fifth wheel with it thats no problem on flat land but I wouldnt pull it through the mountains the main thing is make sure your brakes on the camper work well and are adjusted properly I pull tag alongs daily for work and a fifth wheel pulls much nicer


Thanks. About how much does your 5th wheel weigh?


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## zapper (Sep 23, 2005)

Lamarsh said:


> Thanks. About how much does your 5th wheel weigh?


The 24 ft is 4400 lbs dry weight the 28 ft weighs 6500 lbs dry


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## zapper (Sep 23, 2005)

zapper said:


> The 24 ft is 4400 lbs dry weight the 28 ft weighs 6500 lbs dry


Something else to think about using it hunting is snow and ice with a tag along your gonna want to pull your weight and sway bars to keep weight on the back of your truck with a fifthwheel your good


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