# Advise on trap order....



## magnumhntr (Aug 18, 2003)

I've been reading this forum, along with Trapperman and Michigan Trapper since I got the urge to try this sport last fall. I've been trying to learn as much as possible without asking too many questions, and would like comments on my choice of traps for this fall. I have access to about 1000 acres of land, most of which has a small river flowing through it, 90% of it being farm land. My thinking is that I'll have rats, mink, ****, coyote, and fox as my target species on these properties. With that being said, here is the list I have made out for myself to buy.

12 - Duke 220's for ****
24 - Duke 110 magnums for rats and mink
6 - bridger #1 stop loss for **** and mink
6 - bridger #1 cs for **** and mink
6 - BMI 1.75 cs for coyote and occasional fox

As for stretchers, I don't really know if I should get wire or wood. I'm thinking wire for rats and mink, and wood for the others? Pros/cons for each species? This is where I get a bit confused. Also, for the fleshing board, what should I get? Does one size fit all when it comes to the fleshing boards, or do I need to look into different sizes? And if so, what sizes will acomodate which animal? 

Lastly, would I be able to substitute the Bridger 1.65 in place of the BMI 1.75 for fox and coyote, as some people say the 1.75 is too much for fox, yet others say it's fine. Will the 1.65 hold a coyote?

Sorry, now the last question at this time, when is the general time when furs are in thier prime for the species above? It seems kinda a waste to trap them if the hide isn't going to be worth much in the end, so I'd like to start when the hides are at least starting to get into prime.

Thanks for any and all comments/suggestions. I'm as green as grass, and need all the help I can get.

Chris


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Chris,

Heres a fur primeness chart from Minnesota. Although it probably isnt an exact fit for your latitude, it will show you the relative difference between the species. Personally, I'd start a week or two earlier than shown...and let your catches show you if the chart fits or not.










Actually, since youre just starting out, my advice would be to set on the opening days and just start learning. The experiences will be your greatest "catch" this year, so dont waste any time, waiting (or pulling) because furs arent at their ultimate peak of quality. Get the techniques down first.


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## wild bill (Apr 20, 2001)

personally for **** and mink i would use 1 1/2 dukes and for canines use #2 bridger offsets.


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## Joe R. (Jan 9, 2002)

First of let me say congradulations on wanting to take up the fine art of trapping. I can tell by your list that you have done your homework. I would only make some slight modifications to your list.
First off your choice of conibears is good for what you are targeting and they should keep you busy skinning. The only adjustments I would make is your choice of footholds. I would hold off on the #1 coils and the stoploss traps. A better all around trap would be a #1 1/2 coil like wildbill mentioned. The only reason you may need a stoploss trap is in a marsh situation, and 90% of the time you could make a conibear work there instead. I would change the 1.75 BMI to #2 Bridgers with offset jaws. My personal preference is a #2 Bridger with laminated offset jaws. I run the factory springs for the first season or two and then swap them for #2 music wire springs.
Now as far as stretchers go. I use wood on everything except rats. I even have some wood boards for any damaged rats that I get so I can pin the holes shut. I also use one beam and one knife to do my fleshing with. I have a hardwood beam that is about 5" to 5 1/2" wide. This beam will handle just about any animal you are targeting except maybe a tiny female fox. When I do my mink I just lay it on top of the beam or flesh them once they are on the board. For fleshing I use a Necker 500, believe me it is worth every penny when doing ****, coyotes, and beaver.
Being a first time trapper I would suggest you start on the season opening dates. The fur is not worthless at that time and it is easier to learn in a milder climate. You can then adjust your methods once you gain some experience.
General peak fur primeness for your area would be:
rats- mid December until close of season
mink- month of December
fox and coyotes- months of December and January
****- Thanksgiving until they start to hole up due to cold

Hope this helps
BTW Don't order your traps and supplies just yet. The Michigan Trappers Association is having their annual convention in Evart, MI Aug. 25-27. You can buy everything you need there usually cheaper then mail ordering. Plus you can learn from the demos that will be going on through out the day.

Joe


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## magnumhntr (Aug 18, 2003)

Thanks for the replies fellas. Keep em coming 

Joe R/Wildbill : 

1.the reason I was thinking of the stoploss was because I keep reading how the **** and mink will chew off. Is that less of an issue than people make of it, or is there a way to make the 1 1/2's so they cannot chew off? 

2. Will the #2 Bridger with offset jaws work on fox also, or would they be too much? The reason I ask is that I have both fox and coyotes on these areas and for respect to the animal, I'd rather have a coyote pull out and get away than break a fox leg and have them possibly damage themselves, or worse, leave the foot behind.

3. What is laminated, and base plated. I keep reading about them, but have never seen a definition as to what these terms mean.

Also, I work weekends, fri - sun, 12 hour days. So for the convention, I'd need to use some vacation time for it. If I went on sunday, will there be the same amount of demos and products, or should I go on saturday? Just thinking most bang for my buck ;-)

Thanks again guys. I really appreciate it!

Chris


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## Dave Lyons (Jun 28, 2002)

Mag,

Don't know where you heard such stuff about Mink and there feet but who ever or where ever that was told to you is pretty much dead wrong.

#2 bridger is just fine on fox.

Dave


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## FixedBlade (Oct 14, 2002)

Get to the convention early on saturday. You will be able to see all the demos you need, all the booths you would want to look at and all the people you would want to talk to. Saturday is a busy day and worth the day off. You need to check your traps as early in the morning as you can. The less time in a trap the least possibility for damage or injury.


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## griffondog (Dec 27, 2005)

Mag


Use the 1.5 coiles instead of the 1's and the stoploss. Use lots of swivels and run you traps early in the morning. If your still worried about the **** buy 1.5 double jaw. I think Duke makes one.


For canines I run Bmi 2k9 Wolfer, Victor 1.75 Pro offsets and Montgomery 2 rd jaws. When we start to get lots of snow I start using 3 Sleepy Creeks offsets. Lots of swivels and any no2 coil will treat you just fine. I have even caught grey fox in the 3,s and had little foot damage.


Take some vacation time and spend Saturday at the convention. You can see all the different trap makers and see which ones you like. Plus the demos will help you get started. If you buy the Bmi's get some extra dogs the coyotes eat them like candy.


Griffondog


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## Joe R. (Jan 9, 2002)

The reasons I choose the #1 1/2 coils is because you have a larger target area as compared to the little #1's. The 1 1/2 coil is also a stronger trap and you will get fewer pull outs as opposed to a #1 coil. You will get some **** that chew no matter what trap you use. Generally these are young of the year ****. To avoid as much chewing as possible set up your traps to drown the animal once caught. Even if the water isn't deep enough to drown a **** you will still lessen the chance of him chewing by having him in the water. Keep your chains short 6"-8" and use plenty of swivels. This will solve the majority of the chewing problem.
Now to answer your question on laminations. What the lamination does is widen the surface area of the jaw. What this does is disperse the energy from the jaw striking the foot. A good example would be getting hit across the top of the hand with a ruler. If you get struck with the skinny side it is going to really hurt. Now turn the ruler over and get struck with the wide edge. It will sting but the energy is displaced over a greter surface area. Hope that helps you some.

Joe

BTW make it to the convention on Saturday. You will get the most bang for your buck.


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## magnumhntr (Aug 18, 2003)

Thanks a bunch guys. I'm going to try and get the time off for the convention on that saturday. I appreciate all the advice, and I'm gonna revise my list to this:

12 - Duke 220's for ****
24 - Duke 110 magnums for rats and mink
12- Duke 1.5 cs for **** and mink
6 - Bridger #2 cs with offset jaws for coyote/fox
6 - Duke #1 for rats on floating sets

Also, going to buy a dozen wire stretchers for rats,(probably going to need more), but as for the wood stretchers, does everyone just make thier own? If so, anyone know where I can get the dimensions, and possible some instructions on how to make them (wood type, thickness, etc)?

As for the convention, anyone be up for answering about a gazillion rookie questions, lol?

Thanks again guys!!!

Chris


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## gooseski72 (May 14, 2006)

where in sw MI. I LIVE IN ALLEGAN/GOBLES AREA.


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## magnumhntr (Aug 18, 2003)

I live in Plainwell


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## Joe R. (Jan 9, 2002)

If you want to make your own stretchers NAFA has a fur handling manual that is normally available at no cost at the convention. If you don't make it to the convention do an online search for NAFA. If that doesn't work try North American Fur Auction. I believe it is available online as well.

Joe


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## wild bill (Apr 20, 2001)

i believe this is the chart joe is referring too.

http://www.furharvesters.com/boardsizes.htm


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## Dave Lyons (Jun 28, 2002)

Mag,

If you can make the convention. The guy that posted above(Joe R.) TALKS A LOT!!!!!! And I normally stand next to him and tell the person asking he is full of it.

All kidding aside ask away you will get a ton of opinions. Notice I said opinions.

Dave


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## Joe R. (Jan 9, 2002)

Dave,

You forget my friend. I may talk alot, but I also do a lot of cooking at the convention. I hope you boys are hungry. Planning on bringing a ton of walleye for the fish fry. Nobody will leave hungry this year.

Joe


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## David G Duncan (Mar 26, 2000)

magnumhntr,

You are definitely going to have a great time running your trapline this fall! And as you have discovered the planning that goes into preparing for your trappping adventure is almost as much fun as the actual trapline.

As you have also discovered, we have a really great group of trappers on this forum, who know what they are talking about! You will not go wrong if you follow their advice.

My personal favorite trap for mink and raccoon is the 1.5 coilspring.

You are going to make some mistakes, but the important thing is not to repeat them. Properly anchoring traps is by far the biggest problem area for beginner trappers. So pay special attention to what experienced trappers tell you about anchoring your traps.

If you plan to use wire to fasten your water traps, then either double up the standard light weight trapper's wire or go with some heavier #11 guage wire. 

A large raccoon will quickly break the lighter wire by benting back and forth.

Also, where you attach the wire to a large root or limb, make sure that the wire will beable to pivot around the attachment point. This can be accomplished by keeping the loop around the anchor point slightly larger than the limb and not twisting it tight around the limb.

This will allow the wire to pivot around the limb and the raccoon will not be able to weaken the wire by benting it back and forth, since the wire is able to slide around the limb, rather than be bent back and forth at a fixed point.

Just a simple, but effected piece of advice to keep at the back of your mind as you develop your own special techniques for being a successful trapper.


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## magnumhntr (Aug 18, 2003)

Thank you for the tips David, Joe R, and the other guys for your advice. I got the word today that my vacation day for the convention on the 26th has been ok'd, so I will definitly be there. What time does everything start on sat? I cannot find anything that tells the open and close times, and the demos/presentations that will be there. Anyone know? 

Thanks again!

Chris


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