# Small boat trailer bearings.



## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

So at the very least I have to re-pack my trailer bearings this winter. It’s a single axle escort boat trailer that carries a 14 ft mirror craft aka tin boat. I on avg probably drive an hour each wAy to fish once a week and occasionally 2-3 hrs up north. the bearings in it are good still. but, they are definitely cheaper china bearings. Should I put good ones on or leave the ones in it since they are fine. If I buy new, they are called tapper bearings right? So I need the bearing I.D, O.D. And width to order new ones? I’m preatty sure the O.d is 1.99 or 2.0 for my bearing buddies. 

How much fishing and putting the trailer in the water would necessitate re-packing your bearings twice a year? Trying to avoid a major break down. 


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Watching this thread. You guys with bearing buddies installed,.... how often do you need to take apart the hub and repack those as opposed to pumping some grease in the fitting?


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## Waif (Oct 27, 2013)

mbirdsley said:


> So at the very least I have to re-pack my trailer bearings this winter. It’s a single axle escort boat trailer that carries a 14 ft mirror craft aka tin boat. I on avg probably drive an hour each wAy to fish once a week and occasionally 2-3 hrs up north. the bearings in it are good still. but, they are definitely cheaper china bearings. Should I put good ones on or leave the ones in it since they are fine. If I buy new, they are called tapper bearings right? So I need the bearing I.D, O.D. And width to order new ones? I’m preatty sure the O.d is 1.99 or 2.0 for my bearing buddies.
> 
> How much fishing and putting the trailer in the water would necessitate re-packing your bearings twice a year? Trying to avoid a major break down.
> 
> ...


I'd clean your bearings from one hub and grab the numbers off them to cross reference.
Bring them with you if any doubt.
Your axle spindle diameters matter too..

If your bearings are good ,they're good. Only way to know is to clean and inspect them.
Any flat spots on rollers ,or pitting ,change them out.
Without a new bearing on hand it's hard to explain the amount of slop a bearing should have side to side/inner outer ,but rollers usually are showing wear by then.
Check the races for wear or pitting too.
If you change them out you'll want a driver to seat new races ,or grind the outer diameter of a used one down enough to use it.

Repacking interval depends on heat before immersion in water , and how well seals function.
Should you see grease spattering from a seal onto a rim...Or it sounds like you're hauling broken China dishes , it's time for tear down and inspection!
Meaning , hard telling how often. Once a year minimum ,maybe twice.
Check hub temps after hauling. Check around seals for leakage. Wiggle tire towards and away from boat to compare play to when you last reassembled.
How tight as nut is tightened ,and wheel free play when spun, can factor in bearing life.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Waif said:


> I'd clean your bearings from one hub and grab the numbers off them to cross reference.
> Bring them with you if any doubt.
> Your axle spindle diameters matter too..
> 
> ...


Last summer I had grease coming out of the backside seal and splattering all over the axle. So I should probably get new seals also. Last summer I would occasionally touch the hub being just curious on long runs the one side had no warm feeling. Left side wasn’t hot but, you could feel it being warmer than the other side. I’d like to get to Timkens. Skf (? ) are good to ? 

I put brand new good tires on the trailer last year and so far have re-done the wiring for the lights. 


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## hommer23 (Nov 20, 2012)

Over packing/filling the bearing will cause grease to spatter and it can and does cause the seals to weaken and fail faster.


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## Quack Addict (Aug 10, 2006)

Trailer bearings and races have the same part numbers regardless of manufacturer. I avoid the cheap, bulk Chinese bearings you see at the trailer and auto parts stores like the plague. If you want to be stranded on the side of the highway with a melted spindle, that's a great place to start.

Having been stranded 1x with a blown trailer bearing (6pm on a holiday afternoon), I now always carry a spare set of bearings, races, grease seal, hub and a toothpaste tube full of bearing grease.


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## milanmark (Apr 10, 2012)

I had a bearing go out once.... you get religion after that!
Ignored grease streaks on the rim, totally my fault! I was lucky and limped home and that the spindles were in great shape... If you never pressed in bearing races you may have a problem, needs an arbor press... I bought a hub with all bearings, races and grease seal installed. Worked great! Bought a new boat and bought spare bearings AND spare hubs with all parts installed! Be prepared! 
Anyways, not a fan of just pumping grease into bearing buddies, need to read the instructions to see how to check to see if they need grease or not, blowing out the grease seal is NOT good! I check the hub temp every trip, most of the time they are air temp, hot would be bad! Nothing fancy just put my hand on the hub. I'm not a fan of repacking a lot, partly because I'm lazy and I also think you can do more harm than good by risking contamination inside the hub. If no signs of grease leaks, hubs are ambient temperature, no excessive lateral play in wheel, spin the wheel and it is free and no noise... why repack? Check the bearing buddies add grease if you need to and call it good...
I happen to go about the same frequency as the OP... once a week an hour each way and occasional trips up north.... Trips get more attention for sure.... at least have my spares with me!


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## Waif (Oct 27, 2013)

mbirdsley said:


> Last summer I had grease coming out of the backside seal and splattering all over the axle. So I should probably get new seals also. Last summer I would occasionally touch the hub being just curious on long runs the one side had no warm feeling. Left side wasn’t hot but, you could feel it being warmer than the other side. I’d like to get to Timkens. Skf (? ) are good to ?
> 
> I put brand new good tires on the trailer last year and so far have re-done the wiring for the lights.
> 
> ...


You always want a new seal when tearing a hub down. Centers wear on them , but reusing them is a rough proposition anyways....Lots to jeopardize if you get them out in decent enough condition to consider reuse.
Over greasing can blow a seal too when capping outer bearing. Or after. (And yes I have blown a new seal....) Part of why checking seals visually regular is good.

I used to service trailers years ago. I no longer recall bearing numbers, who is popular ect..
Timkens used to be good. No idea how they are today.
I have acquired hubs and bearings, seals,races , from a trailer place and farmstores without asking who made them and have not had a problem due to bearing quality.
But , I keep an eye and hand on them often too.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

So I still need to take the bearing out to make sure it is 100% match ( plan on doing that tonight) but, this is dang close to my specs off the top of my head. It comes with a cone and cup (I don’t know what that is )? My trailer I don’t think has that. I just put the bearings on either side of the hub. Can I just throw cup away ( steel circle that comes with the bearing) these are 11.99 on line










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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Replace race (ring thingy) when replacing bearings. New on new. 
If you don't know how to replace the race take it somewhere.


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## Waif (Oct 27, 2013)

"Cup is the same thing as "race".
Race is harder than your hub. Even if it wasn't ,it would allow changing the race out when worn.

With bearings out of hub a closer inspection may show a couple areas where the backside of a race is exposed more than other areas. (View will be from opposite side of hub towards opposite race.)

A long punch ,flat on the end , can drive race out by tapping alternate sides of same side.
A round brass rod can work for a punch too on smaller hubs.
Sometimes a short section of wooden hammer handle will work. Other uses can be found for the same on a hub job.

Compare new race to old one to look for wear.
You want a nice smooth surface and same taper size as the new one before leaving the old race in to reuse. If it's good ,it's good.
The force required to drive out a race you are replacing hints of the force to put the new one in. Buying a formal "driver" helps. But again ,grinding a used race's diameter down to easily fit in hub where new race is going will work. Save it for future use ,just in case.
You don't want the ground race to bind against hub walls ,but just enough ground off to be able to remove with your fingers.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Waif said:


> "Cup is the same thing as "race".
> Race is harder than your hub. Even if it wasn't ,it would allow changing the race out when worn.
> 
> With bearings out of hub a closer inspection may show a couple areas where the backside of a race is exposed more than other areas. (View will be from opposite side of hub towards opposite race.)
> ...


Ok, now I’m up on my lingo and have an idea of what’s going on in there.. I’ll probably replace everything in there except the spindle or maybe just price out new hub assemblies that way I know everything is new. Right now I need the trailer for another 1-2 yes before I up grade. 

Thanks waif, walleye mike, and others !!!! I’ll prolly have to watch a couple of you tube videos for the race replacement and than give it a try. I have time to figure it out. Last time I used a 34 mill meter socket for the seals. I don’t know if I pounded the races out or not. Fighting the urge to buying a bearing/seal driver kit off the truck harbor frieght, or internet. It will get used as I always plan having a boat or other trailers.


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## big buck 75 (Sep 6, 2010)

Steve said:


> Watching this thread. You guys with bearing buddies installed,.... how often do you need to take apart the hub and repack those as opposed to pumping some grease in the fitting?


I never take mine apart and repack since I have had bearing buddies, but I do give it a some grease every 3 trips or so. I can see if the spring is compressed or not. Don't know if this is the right thing to do or not but it seems to work for me. After I'm on the road for a while if I pull off to get gas I will feel the hub to see if is getting warm. I have not had a problem with this.


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## big buck 75 (Sep 6, 2010)

Also I don't over grease, I think the ones I have now, there is a small hole in the bearing buddy, when the spring gets compressed to that point, grease will come out the small hole. Don't keep pumping grease in until it blows out the back seal.


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## CrawlerHarness (Dec 9, 2017)

I repack 1X a year. 

Advice on your trailer tires.....use R tires instead of D tires. They will last longer on a trailer. Also pump up your tires to the max psi or 5 psi over the max. If you run your tires low on pressure, you will wear your tires out prematurely. Cupping of the treads can be the outcome.


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## Scout 2 (Dec 31, 2004)

Be sure to check the surface where the seal rides. Just take your thumb nail and slide along the axle in this area checking for a groove where the seal rides


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## CHASINEYES (Jun 3, 2007)

mbirdsley said:


> So I still need to take the bearing out to make sure it is 100% match ( plan on doing that tonight) but, this is dang close to my specs off the top of my head. It comes with a cone and cup (I don’t know what that is )? My trailer I don’t think has that. I just put the bearings on either side of the hub. Can I just throw cup away ( steel circle that comes with the bearing) these are 11.99 on line
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would use the new cup. The old one may have a slighty different profile than the new bearing due to manufacturing or wear. Knock your old cups (races) out. I have one of these bearing driver kits. They're aluminum, so I haven't damaged any races..I sometimes end up with the round disc installed reverse from the picture. They can be rented or purchased from the orange auto parts store.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

CHASINEYES said:


> I would use the new cup. The old one may have a slighty different profile than the new bearing due to manufacturing or wear. Knock your old cups (races) out. I have one of these bearing driver kits. They're aluminum, so I haven't damaged any races..I sometimes end up with the round disc installed reverse from the picture. They can be rented or purchased from the orange auto parts store.
> View attachment 489361


I was actually looking at that $25.99 kit. I’m preatty sure I’m just going to buy the bearing driver kit. I just don’t know if I’m getting it off the Matco truck( if he shows up at the shop) or buying a cheaper one. I’d rather buy the whole tool kit and have it for the future rather than rent. Yeah I’m going to replace bearings (cone), cup (race), and seals. I’m actually heading out there right now to tear one side apart. 


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## Scout 2 (Dec 31, 2004)

mbirdsley said:


> I was actually looking at that $25.99 kit. I’m preatty sure I’m just going to buy the bearing driver kit. I just don’t know if I’m getting it off the Matco truck( if he shows up at the shop) or buying a cheaper one. I’d rather buy the whole tool kit and have it for the future rather than rent. Yeah I’m going to replace bearings (cone), cup (race), and seals. I’m actually heading out there right now to tear one side apart.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Most times the races do not come out very hard. I would check price at Harbor Freight seen as how you will only use it once and a while. I use to use a brass drift and tap on oppsite sides to get it out. Slide hammer will also work good


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Scout 2 said:


> Most times the races do not come out very hard. I would check price at Harbor Freight seen as how you will only use it once and a while. I use to use a brass drift and tap on oppsite sides to get it out. Slide hammer will also work good


Went with harbor frieght kits and now I’ll have for the truck and terrain. Only time I have had to take a set of bearing buddies off . a 5 lbs little sledge and a 2x4 got it though. Looks like the Lucas grease held up from last year. Does that look normal last year was my first year packing bearings. 


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Took the boat and trailer on a 12 mile little cruise with 4-5 miles on the highway. Everything worked like it should as far as the hubs are concerned. picked up the new registration stickers last Thursday for the boat. Ready to go 


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

The game is: ON


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

kroppe said:


> The game is: ON


I wanted to fish for walleye this weekend. However, I had to put on a front right cv shaft, hub assembly, stabilizer links on the truck. Finished up today. Wasn’t bad except removing the front right strut and bolts were rusted 


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

This was the fruit of my labor. First trip of the year and I caught it a week and a half ago. My personal best caught it on a #5 shad rap delta craw rigged in a M/l spinning rod and 8 lbs red label. It went back and was only out of the water for 30 seconds tops. Thanks guys. The little lake was about 30 minutes from my house. I was the only one on it for 3-4 hrs 


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## huntfishrelax (Mar 25, 2019)

I bought a used trailer last fall that needed a lot of work,but the price was right.
I pulled the hubs off and yep bad bearings,blown appart,lucky I only had to run about 40 mph max and 20 miles to get home.
So I bought new bearings and races (cups and cones).85 bucks.
When knocking out the cups i broke one hub.
I looked on E Trailer.com and was able to buy new 4 bolt hubs with bearings,seals dust caps and lug nuts for about 28 bucks each.
Great place to shop.
Also when I needed a 5 th wheel hitch i got a great deal also.
And shipping was free and fast.
Check them out!


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