# Cost and payback for new air conditioning compressor and condenser



## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

While on the topic of energy savings, my outdoor air conditioning compressor + condenser unit is around 30 years old, maybe a bit older. I replaced the internals of the contactor last summer, it made a difference in the sound of the motor. I would guess the motor is now getting more power and the unit is operating at the right power/output level and maybe more efficiently. 

What is the wisdom surrounding replacement of a compressor+condenser unit? Are the energy savings worth the investment? I searched on the internet and as always there is a large amount of information to sift through. Any experience would be welcomed.


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## sparky18181 (Apr 17, 2012)

kroppe said:


> While on the topic of energy savings, my outdoor air conditioning compressor + condenser unit is around 30 years old, maybe a bit older. I replaced the internals of the contactor last summer, it made a difference in the sound of the motor. I would guess the motor is now getting more power and the unit is operating at the right power/output level and maybe more efficiently.
> 
> What is the wisdom surrounding replacement of a compressor+condenser unit? Are the energy savings worth the investment? I searched on the internet and as always there is a large amount of information to sift through. Any experience would be welcomed.


If you got 30 years out of that, you have been blessed.


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

sparky I have to agree. What is today's state of the art in terms of compressors and condensers? Is there a clearcut advantage for a certain type of technology? Or are they all pretty much the same?


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## notmuchtime (Aug 6, 2002)

If your condensing unit is that old, it's using R22 refrigerant. The retail cost of it is outrageous. You'd be further ahead to replace the entire system. That includes the Condensing unit, A coil and line set.


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## Mags (Apr 10, 2002)

You would definitely save. Even if just replacing the outside condensing unit, make sure it is matched up correctly with the coil in the furnace.
Our house is was built in '65, a shade under 1600 sq. ft., and we moved here in '93 as the 2nd. owners. The furnace was a Lennox and original, the condenser was a Carrier, probably from the later '70's. In 2014, I replaced both with a 96% efficiency, 2-stage Lennox furnace and a Lennox 16+ SEER condensing unit, which is very quiet...........both from their Elite series.  Both coil and condenser are matched at 2 1/2 ton. Our savings so far on both gas and electricity have come down about a 1/3 of what we were paying. At the same time, got rid of the "interruptible service" from DTE since there was really no further need for it due to the system's efficiency. Very comfortable in summer & winter............what more could I ask for?


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## sparky18181 (Apr 17, 2012)

Very few makers of units. There is a lot name badges around that are put on units Yes a new A coil and condenser is the way to go.


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## Hobbs (Oct 28, 2013)

Put a air to air heatpump in. Who is your local electric company? Some provide cheap power. I know what I'm talking about. I've been doing HVAC for 25 years. PM me if you would like to get more detail.


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## Waif (Oct 27, 2013)

How efficient is your homes envelope?
Is natural gas piped to it? 
How many days below freezing in your area may factor in a need for additional heating source.
Heck ,guess I don' t know which is better for your home.


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

Thanks for the comments folks. My home insulation is below average, putting it nicely. Built in 1950, brick on 4 sides. General climate here is milder than southern Michigan, so fewer heating degree days and more cooling degree days. We have natural gas here. And electricity, too!  

I agree replacing the furnace, outdoor compressor and indoor coil would make a difference. I need/want to parcel out the expenditures so want to go with the best payback investment, one piece at a time.


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## Gamekeeper (Oct 9, 2015)

I'd say that ,presuming same age of all current components,
You could simply compare cost of heat to cost of cool as a % of your annual bill, and then compare the approx $'s for each.

Use May bill as a month with limited electric use other than a normal month as your base electric.
Then, subtract that from the bill for the mos that you use the A/C compressor. That's your A/C cost/mos used.

Do the same for your gas bill, using the July bill as the base for hot water use. 

When you compare the short cooling season to the long heating season, you'll see that you pay a premium for comfort in the depths of summer.

So, pay-back is kind of irrelevant.

If the size of your bills, for the same level of comfort, is a budget issue, then figure out how much gas you'll save if you upgrade the furnace.
Have the A-coil installed at that time, but don't buy the compressor pkg.

Then, after a season of savings, buy the compressor and have it connected.

FWIW, when keeping warm in winter is so much more expensive every year, than keeping cool, it becomes a matter of "How much are you willing to spend for a few weeks of improved summer comfort?"

Now if you have a house full of heat generating medical equipment, then I recommend going with a room A/C, because the equipment burden is temporary, and contained to one area of the house.

As I said, it typically comes down to what you are willing to pay for relatively brief summer comfort.


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## Hauptmann6 (Oct 19, 2012)

I'm coming in late, but.. If you are on propane or oil, look into a heat pump. If you have natural gas, I really don't think it's worth the added cost. 

If your furnace is that age, get it replaced first with a good 2 stage high efficiency furnace. Then do your AC unit. 

No matter what your contractor tries to sell you, do not get a R22 unit. Or only replace the condenser. R22 prices are skyrocketing. Company I work for orders pallets of it and I have been told it's doubled from last year. 

Depending on budget, a properly sized single stage unit will do everything you need. A 2 stage will do much better at removing humidity and save you some money. Modulating, awesome tech, but it is a comfort only decision. Our cooling season is too short to repay the cost with savings.

Make sure your contractor does a load calculation for your house and sizes to that. Do not look at the sizing and tell them to go bigger. You will end up with a system that is inefficient and doesn't work properly.

I won't get into brands, but you do get what you pay for. If you plan on keeping the house, get the extended warranty. It will pay for itself very quickly if you have a blower motor or inducer motor fail(not to mention any AC issues). ECM drive motors aren't cheap.

Mags, I'm assuming it was an EL296? And an XC16? Great furnace. What stat did you pair it with?


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

Hauptmann6 said:


> I'm coming in late, but.. If you are on propane or oil, look into a heat pump. If you have natural gas, I really don't think it's worth the added cost.
> 
> If your furnace is that age, get it replaced first with a good 2 stage high efficiency furnace. Then do your AC unit.
> 
> ...





We put in a new propane furnace and combo heat pump/AC unit about 5 years ago. The heat pump does all our heating down to 22 degrees and if it's colder the propane furnace kicks on and takes over. I've figured our savings has been $400/500 per year in propane cost in a normal winter. This winter, as warm as it's been the furnace rarely kicks on. 

If you're looking at a new AC unit, definitely look at a heat pump/AC combo unit.


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