# Musket cap versus no 11 primer



## answerguy8 (Oct 15, 2001)

I have a TC New Englander 54 cal muzzle loader. Is there any advantage of switching to the primer that uses musket caps? Are there any other choices for a primer for my gun?
Thanks,
Gary


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## mparks (Sep 4, 2001)

More flame I guess if you think you need it. I've got a New Englander and several other side locks and never had an ignition problem with standard #11s. You're probably not going to find musket caps as easy as #11s. Easy enough to switch back to a standard nipple if you don't like it though I'd imagine.

What's wrong with your current setup?


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## Cobra (Jan 19, 2000)

Got fed up with minor hang fires with my New Englander when it was really cold despite having a cap collar on it. It's been awhile (before the 209 craze)but I switched to a converter that used small rifle primers instead of #11 caps. Adapter screwed into the nipple hole, primer inserted, then you screwed firing pin piece on. Simple, easy and effective. She would definetly go off. Wish I could remember the company but it's been at least 10 years and now hunt with a 209 in-line. Will say that over 250 rounds have been fired thru and it still works flawlessly, fun gun just to shoot for kicks and still accurate.


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## montcalm (Dec 1, 2004)

I have used #11 caps for years with my TC sidelock with no ignition problems: even when hunting in fog,mist,and light rain. The bore is treated with TC Bore Butter and I use black powder.If you use Pyrodex try #11 magnum caps.


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## yooperkenny (Jul 13, 2004)

When I first assembled my CVA Plainshunter sidelock about 10 years ago, it wouldn't fire consistently. I called CVA and the guy suggested removing the bolster screw and pouring some pyrodex into the bolster (and then replacing the screw of course). This ensures that the fire from the #11 cap will travel to the barrel. I don't know if this applies to your scenario, but I always do this and haven't had a misfire since!


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## sullyxlh (Oct 28, 2004)

Cobra said:


> Got fed up with minor hang fires with my New Englander when it was really cold despite having a cap collar on it. It's been awhile (before the 209 craze)but I switched to a converter that used small rifle primers instead of #11 caps. Adapter screwed into the nipple hole, primer inserted, then you screwed firing pin piece on. Simple, easy and effective. She would definetly go off. Wish I could remember the company but it's been at least 10 years and now hunt with a 209 in-line. Will say that over 250 rounds have been fired thru and it still works flawlessly, fun gun just to shoot for kicks and still accurate.


I use one of those on my new englander also,there the cat's butt,don't bother looking for em cause they don't make em anymore,they do make em for the 209p though and they have different sizes for the various sidelocks http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=7224478245&rd=1 check em out


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## Sib (Jan 8, 2003)

yooperkenny said:


> When I first assembled my CVA Plainshunter sidelock about 10 years ago, it wouldn't fire consistently. I called CVA and the guy suggested removing the bolster screw and pouring some pyrodex into the bolster (and then replacing the screw of course). This ensures that the fire from the #11 cap will travel to the barrel. I don't know if this applies to your scenario, but I always do this and haven't had a misfire since!


I have a New Englander and haven't had much problems with ignition, but when it's really wet and sloppy conditions, as December can be, I always used this trick. Just add a few grains of powder into the fire chamber with the nipple removed and then replace the nipple. I also use some chapstick and rub it around the nipple and cap edge to help seal out any moisture from getting behind the primer after it's been primed.


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## mparks (Sep 4, 2001)

Those of you having ignition problems with the #11 cap. Are you removing the barrel and flushing with hot water to clean? I really think this is important to clean out the powder residue that can accumulate between the breech and nipple. I've always done this. I tried to cheat many moons ago and just clean with some kind of bore cleaner and then I did have hang-fires.


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## answerguy8 (Oct 15, 2001)

yooperkenny said:


> I called CVA and the guy suggested removing the bolster screw and pouring some pyrodex into the bolster (and then replacing the screw of course). This ensures that the fire from the #11 cap will travel to the barrel. I don't know if this applies to your scenario, but I always do this and haven't had a misfire since!


I've done that after a misfire except I used some pistol powder instead of Pyrodex. (I guess I should ask what is the 'bolster screw'? Is it what the nipple attaches to?) What I had done is remove the nipple and put a few grains of powder there.


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## mparks (Sep 4, 2001)

I've read that putting powder between that cap and the charge creates a slower igintion because it creates a "fuse" scenerio instead of the direct flame to the charge.

I know that just a few grains shook into the breech by unscewing the nipple does wonders to clear a ball that was loaded with out powder.:lol: A "guy" I know did that once.


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## BallsRdragn (Jul 21, 2005)

I have a Traditions Thunder Mag .50 Cal. I called Traditions and they said to angle the gun so the powder can ease up into the bolster by tapping on it. This should help to fire each time. They said to make sure, it would help if I put a tad of powder in the bolster by taking the bolster screw out and closing it up again.

When I heard that..... I put the gun up for sale. Anyone anyone? Make a trade or an offer..I dont have more then 10 shots out of this thing. It is also tapped for a scope. Wooden stock with blued barrel. Fiber optic sites.

Please message me if interested.

Thanks
Ben


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## yooperkenny (Jul 13, 2004)

answerguy8 said:


> ..I guess I should ask what is the 'bolster screw'? Is it what the nipple attaches to?....


On my CVA Plainshunter, the nipple screws into the bolster, which is a short extension from the barrel. The bolster can be accessed via a screw on the end, which is handy for cleaning and the aforementioned extra sprinkling of "insurance" powder.

One of the first things I did when I started shooting that gun was replace the standard nipple with one of those Uncle Mike's "Hot Nipples" (kinky, I know) as well as replacing the standard bolster screw with a heavy duty one - both stainless steel and not as susceptible to corrosion.

I'm not familiar with your gun, but I hope some of this is helpful to your scenario too.

I believe that sometimes muzzleloading is as much art as science and it takes time to learn about your gun and perfect a process that works for you. I now trust this rifle to go off every time and shoot true. That's part of the allure - can you imagine a mountain man centuries ago drawing a bead on a charging bear knowing he's got one shot (hopefully) to take care of business? :coolgleam


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## answerguy8 (Oct 15, 2001)

BallsRdragn said:


> I have a Traditions Thunder Mag .50 Cal. I called Traditions and they said to angle the gun so the powder can ease up into the bolster by tapping on it. This should help to fire each time. They said to make sure, it would help if I put a tad of powder in the bolster by taking the bolster screw out and closing it up again.
> 
> When I heard that..... I put the gun up for sale. Anyone anyone? Make a trade or an offer..I dont have more then 10 shots out of this thing. It is also tapped for a scope. Wooden stock with blued barrel. Fiber optic sites.
> 
> ...


Oh yee of little faith.


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