# Prepping an aluminum boat for paint



## sweatyspartan (May 24, 2004)

Hey guys, I'm looking for some idea of what to do to prep an old aluminum boat. It has peeling paint all over it and needs to be done before I'd use it. I was thinking that a sandblast might be the best way to ensure I'm not redoing the job next year. Any ideas on the best way to prep the boat and also approx. what it would cost? Also, is there any specific type of paint that I would want to use?

If sandblasting is the best course, if anyone here does it on the side let me know.

Thanks


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## BDR (Dec 29, 2004)

I'd sand blast it. depending on what you want to pay, Ill do it. But the job blows.


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## Gramps (Jan 19, 2007)

West Marine carries some good stuff, they carry a marine paint remover that is for Aluminum, its there own brand it sells for $27.99 quart and $67.99 a gallon removes paint with one App., They also sell some good paint for Aluminum, its made by Interlux its called Trilux 33 it sells for $66.99 quart and $215.00 gallon and comes in 5 colors, Red, Blue, Black, White and green. The epoxy is made by Gluvit, you just brush or roll it on, it seals seams and rivets in aluminum it sells for $55.99 quart and $130.00 gallon.go to westmarine.com


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## Westlakedrive (Feb 25, 2005)

I would have it sand blasted. I painted mine but the paint wasnt peeling so I just painted it. Had the trailer sand blasted. Used oil based paint I got at ACE. So far so good.


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## eddiejohn4 (Dec 23, 2005)

I just wire wheeled mine. Used an etcher before painting . I have had no problems with it yet. been 5 years.


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## motcityman (Apr 4, 2006)

eddiejohn4 said:


> I just wire wheeled mine. Used an etcher before painting . I have had no problems with it yet. been 5 years.


works and is cheapest..you could spend lots of $$$ ,,more then what the boat might be worth on the market. but if you are going to keep it for years..I just use TSP and wash it well, go to kmart get outdoor paint for the house the color you want and brushes... over for about $30.00 and touch it up once a year or month..you might always have to anyways if you dont do it just right....good luck


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## brdhntr (Oct 1, 2003)

I used the wire wheel on mine, filled the bigger cracks with JB weld, smoothed it out, then coated the whole bottom with Gluvit, rough sanded it, and covered with a duck boat paint from Cabelas. Still tight as a drum after 3 yrs. Took a lot of work. I actually did mine as the wife was getting close to having my youngest boy. Took away the temptation of heading to Erie to fish and possibly missing the birth. Sometimes we have to make sacrifices.


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## jimbobway (Mar 19, 2002)

Is there an easy way to remove decals and logos off before painting ? thanks


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## phishon (Feb 24, 2007)

best way to remove stickers and such is with a heat gun...they peel off rather easy.
And on sandblasting your aluminum boat...make sure you take it somewhere where the people know what they're doing, I work for an industrial painting company for 17 years, and aluminum is very easy to warp.... so be cautious.


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## sweatyspartan (May 24, 2004)

Thanks for the tips fellas. I think I am going to go with the wire brush method (on a wheel).

What do I have to do to prep the boat to "accept" the paint once it is stripped? Would I use something similar for the trailer?

Thanks again!


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## Priority1 (Feb 5, 2006)

You can wire wheel the trailer also. Wipe the aluminum down with white vinegar. Rustoleum will work well on the boat and trailer.


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## eddiejohn4 (Dec 23, 2005)

Make sure with any bare metal that you etch it first .so that it will bond with the new pain they make a etcher just for this purpose. The job is in the prep.


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## Duckman1 (Oct 14, 2004)

Use regular old paint stripper from the home center or paint store. Wire wheel sucks unless the paint just pops off the aluminum already. 

Wash of all stripper. I belive there is a pre-wash type solution for this. 

Go to marine store and get an etcher as stated before. It has to actually be painted on and is yellow? and very thin consistency. It is designed to hold the paint. A good gloss marine enamel will work just fine or flat if used for hunting. Brush, roll, spray whatever.

I did this same procedure to my aluminum Starcraft 14 years ago and the paint is still bonded to the boat as good as ever. No flaking or peeling. Take time with the prep and use quality paint. It will last!

Good luck!


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## sweatyspartan (May 24, 2004)

OK...after going through these responses and others in the forum, searching online and asking paint stores, here is the process that I've come up with:

1. Wire brush entire boat (I was told it must be stainless steel)
2. Patch any holes or leaky rivets with JB weld
3. Lighly sand entire boat
4. Wash boat - dry - run a tack cloth over entire boat
5. coat bottom with gluvit
6. Wash boat again in either soap or a diluted white vinegar solution
7. lighly sand boat
8. wipe with tack cloth again
9. Prime entire boat with Rustoleum latex aluminum primer
10. Final paint coat!!

I still have a couple questions:

1. For a final paint I was looking at just using a rustoleum protective enamel. I also read that some people recommend a polyurethane. I didn't really want to spend too much money on the final paint by going with an interlux or soemthing similar. If thats what will last best, then I'd probably go with it.

2. Does the primer take the place of an etcher?

3. Do I need a primer coat under the gluvit? I didn't see any mention of this on their website, but I don't want to waste a $100 gallon of paint.

4. I was planning on using a spray gun to paint the boat. Any downsides to this?

I know the process probably sounds like overkill, but I really don't want to have to go through this every couple years. If anyone has any tips to make it easier or steps you would add, please let me know.

I'll be sure to post some before and after pics to let everyone know how it went.

Thanks for all the help!


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## kbkrause (Feb 12, 2002)

sweatyspartan said:


> If anyone has any tips to make it easier or steps you would add, please let me know.
> 
> I'll be sure to post some before and after pics to let everyone know how it went.
> 
> Thanks for all the help!


Unless your going for style or want to use it for hunting, why paint it? You could leave it as is after sanding and put some pin stripes and matching MC numbers on it...


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## sweatyspartan (May 24, 2004)

kbkrause said:


> Unless your going for style or want to use it for hunting, why paint it? You could leave it as is after sanding and put some pin stripes and matching MC numbers on it...


well...my ego gets in the way a bit. I do want to paint it just so it looks nicer. Also, I'll have an easier time convincing my dad to let me keep it on the side of his house the nicer it looks.:evilsmile


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## Westlakedrive (Feb 25, 2005)

If you get the right primer from say an automotive store its etcher/primer and I paid $14 for a can no need to prime additionally.
I used a Wagoner power painter. Took a few minutes to paint the boat and couple days to get it ready.


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## brdhntr (Oct 1, 2003)

When I did mine, I did not prime under the gluvit, the wire brushing provided a rough surface for it to adhere. I, also, did not prime after sanding the gluvit, I just rolled on Carsen's Duck boat Paint (flat brown). Bottom still sealed tight after 3 yrs.


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## eddiejohn4 (Dec 23, 2005)

Sweatyspartan there is no over kill, do the best job you can and can afford.

I try and always do a great job on any project ,this makes me happy and the job lasts.


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## gman (Oct 13, 2000)

not trying to hijack the thread but what could I use on an aluminum boat to get the aluminum back to original shine. I picked up a 14' Meyers that has been upside down under some trees for a while. I powerwashed it as best I could but it still has some oxidation on it. just looking to shine it up a bit. Thanks in advance.


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