# Infrared heaters



## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

I'm thinking about getting one for my hunting cabin. I have a furnace that I leave set at 50 so the pipes don't freeze. I'm wondering if one of these could relieve some of the pressure on the furnace. Propane is really expensive and I don't use enough to get on a regular delivery. I would be looking at heating a 600 sq foot area that is insulated fairly well. Just has to get warm enough to not freeze. 

In your opinion would I save money vs. propane? 

Thoughts.


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## Downriver Tackle (Dec 24, 2004)

I have a 1500W IR heater in my small place. VS propane, it seemed about a wash for me at $1.99/lb when I got it. Propane seems a little cheaper than the IR now that I'm paying $1.69/lb. No hard calculations, just based off my two bills and usage.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

I could be wrong but I would think propane would have to be pretty expensive to cost more than running one of those.


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## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

Well that answer my question. They are advertised as being very cost effective.


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## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

Must be that it is not easy and quick to drain your pipes. I would consider putting in the time & money to make it easy so you could do that each time you leave during cold weather.
No worries about power outages, etc. 

L & O


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## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

Liver and Onions said:


> Must be that it is not easy and quick to drain your pipes. I would consider putting in the time & money to make it easy so you could do that each time you leave during cold weather.
> No worries about power outages, etc.
> 
> L & O


That's not a bad idea but draining toilet, water heater, and winterizing traps is fairly good size chore if we are only going ever other weekend. I do winterize usually mid January.


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## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

As far as electric heater's. A watt is a watt. It doesn't matter if your running an infrared heater, a element heater, oil filled, or running your oven with the door open. Don't buy the hype of advertising.

Your very best option in to set your place up to be self draining. Make it a 5 minute drain down and start up. Lots of them sett up that way around here.


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## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

swampbuck said:


> As far as electric heater's. A watt is a watt. It doesn't matter if your running an infrared heater, a element heater, oil filled, or running your oven with the door open. Don't buy the hype of advertising.
> 
> Your very best option in to set your place up to be self draining. Make it a 5 minute drain down and start up. Lots of them sett up that way around here.


Hmmm. Now you have me thinking. I could put in a series of valves and probably make self draining. What do you do with traps in the sinks? Just blow them out every time?


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

Little tank of compressed air and some RV anti-freeze


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## multibeard (Mar 3, 2002)

We had a plumber in Oceana county that plumbed a lot of cottages. All lines were put in with a slope to one point where he put a tag on a valve. Go into the crawl space/basement open the two valves with tags on them. Open all the faucets up stairs plus the drain on the water heater that was set up to drain to the out side of the cottage. Antifreeze into the traps and toilet. Then out the door.


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## Downriver Tackle (Dec 24, 2004)

swampbuck said:


> As far as electric heater's. A watt is a watt. It doesn't matter if your running an infrared heater, a element heater, oil filled, or running your oven with the door open. Don't buy the hype of advertising.
> 
> Your very best option in to set your place up to be self draining. Make it a 5 minute drain down and start up. Lots of them sett up that way around here.



For the most part. Watts are what's rated going in(electricity), BTUs(heat) on the way out. Most are fairly close, but some with larger or multiple fans, or oscillating movement will have less BTUs per watt consumed. IR's are generally a little more efficient because they don't need larger fans to project the heat. 

I'd agree on the quick drain system. I replumbed this place from the well line out and installed a drain valve on the lowest part, and installed a shrader valve to blow the system out just past the shut-off. Worked great. Only issue I ever had was one time the toilet froze and cracked, even with RV antifreeze in it. Too much water. After that, I took a plunger to it first to get most of the water out, then added the anti-freeze. If were were coming back fairly soon, I didn't drain the hot water tank and just set that on low.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

Lumberman said:


> Hmmm. Now you have me thinking. I could put in a series of valves and probably make self draining. What do you do with traps in the sinks? Just blow them out every time?


They make plastic traps with a drain plug to get the water out. You still have to put anti freeze back in to prevent sewer gas. Last year it was in the -30's up here and lots of cabin owners had trouble come start up in the spring. I don't trust mixing RV ani freeze with trap water. I would always get the water out of traps and toilet bowl and tank and pour in the anti freeze full strength. 1 gallon would do the whole cabin. Don't forget your shower stall either. The cabin had a well pit and we always had a heating element in it for the old style tank and pump.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Liver and Onions said:


> Must be that it is not easy and quick to drain your pipes. I would consider putting in the time & money to make it easy so you could do that each time you leave during cold weather.
> No worries about power outages, etc.
> 
> L & O


That's what I do. Sometimes when I get there it is a comfortable 20 degrees


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## multibeard (Mar 3, 2002)

To get most of the water out the toilet bowl after flushing out the tank, simply dump 4 or 5 gallons into the toilet bowl at a fast pace. It will take most of the water out of the bowl


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

multibeard said:


> To get most of the water out the toilet bowl after flushing out the tank, simply dump 4 or 5 gallons into the toilet bowl at a fast pace. It will take most of the water out of the bowl


You have more money than me.lol Buy a cheap turkey baster syringe and draw the water out of the toilet bowl and have a bucket nearby to put it in. When toilet bowl is empty you'll smell it. Then add anti freeze. (Don't use said syringe to baste your turkey.


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## jakeo (Sep 14, 2004)

Quartz heater YES, infrared pretty log looking heaters NO. I have had both and did some homework last year. Ohio electric rates are close to 60% higher then Michigan rates so I wanted most efficient.
The "QUARTZ" are most efficient if really are quartz. The bulbs stay hotter longer and cost less to reach desired temps. The coils in infrared shut down fast and take alot to hold constant temp.
Last week on TV they had a consumer show about these and 2-3 big name heater companies were caught selling heaters saying they were "quartz" but instead were just infrared coils. They went to a big named store and opened boxes stating Quartz only to find the coils. Quartz can be replaced as the others cant be. Suggestions were to open each box and look inside the grates to see what you are really buying.
I have a "LIFE SMART 1500Watt" and it has 4 elements but I leave it on economy and uses 750watts to heat first floor of my 2 story house on normal days but below 20, furnace kicks in.


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

jakeo said:


> Quartz heater YES, infrared pretty log looking heaters NO. I have had both and did some homework last year. Ohio electric rates are close to 60% higher then Michigan rates so I wanted most efficient.
> The "QUARTZ" are most efficient if really are quartz. The bulbs stay hotter longer and cost less to reach desired temps. The coils in infrared shut down fast and take alot to hold constant temp.
> Last week on TV they had a consumer show about these and 2-3 big name heater companies were caught selling heaters saying they were "quartz" but instead were just infrared coils. They went to a big named store and opened boxes stating Quartz only to find the coils. Quartz can be replaced as the others cant be. Suggestions were to open each box and look inside the grates to see what you are really buying.
> I have a "LIFE SMART 1500Watt" and it has 4 elements but I leave it on economy and uses 750watts to heat first floor of my 2 story house on normal days but below 20, furnace kicks in.


A watt is a watt and there's no magic super bulb or material that's gonna get you more for your money. Sure you can get replaceable bulbs but you could buy a whole new unit for the price of one bulb.
Oscillating heaters may take a little energy to move the thing and fans will use a little energy but it won't amount to much and will help distribute the heat.

The most you will get in a 110 volt heater is 1500 watts and that will get you 5,118 BTUs. 
The biggest bang for your buck is a $20 milk house heater, with thermostat and tip over sensor. If the element goes bad, buy a new one. Those quartz bulbs are $50-100 a pop.


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

2508speed said:


> You have more money than me.lol Buy a cheap turkey baster syringe and draw the water out of the toilet bowl and have a bucket nearby to put it in. When toilet bowl is empty you'll smell it. Then add anti freeze. (Don't use said syringe to baste your turkey.


My method is easier. Just use a plunger to plunge most of that water out of bowl. Then 2 gallons of anti freeze poured quick will do the job.


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## Liver and Onions (Nov 24, 2000)

Steve said:


> ..........
> ..........Then 2 gallons of anti freeze poured quick will do the job.


Seems like even 1 gallon would be overkill.

L & O


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## Lumberman (Sep 27, 2010)

My original post was in reference to a quartz infrared heater. Like the life smart. 

I don't understand the watt is a watt statement. An LED bulb produces way more lift per watt then a incandescent bulb. Why would heat be the same?


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