# casting inline spinners



## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

I have been making my own in-spinners for a while and I guess finally this year I realized the larger ones are to big for the rods I have. My brass bodies are 1/8 oz and i put either a # 2 or # 4 french spinner on them, most of my rods are light/medium action rods and they have no problem chucking the spiners with # 2 blades. Problem comes with the # 4 blades; they just seems like they are putting a lot of stress on the rod. I primarily fish the bad river for northerns and the shiawassee river between Corunna and Chesaning for small mouth and everything in between. I know i need a heavier action rod but i don't know how much bigger I should go with out going to big, like a M or M/H rod? Thinking it would also give me a excuse to get bait caster. regardless of what type of real that is purchased what would be the preferred gear ratio for casting in line spinners or does it not matter?


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## -Axiom- (Jul 24, 2010)

For what you are describing I would use a 7' medium rod with a 2500 size reel.


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

You want a fast or even extra fast action rod for spinners. Length and the rest is up to you. Lure weight and action for the rod is normally printed on the blank or in the description if buying on line. The soft tip allows the spinner to do it's job... make it's "THUMP" it also allows you to monitor blade speed and make sure your getting the optimum performance from your spinner. I know that area well around Owosso, damn fine fishing through that stretch. Also I would stay away from Bait Cast for the purpose you describe, unless you know an area full of monster Muskie's around there!


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

...


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

METTLEFISH said:


> You want a fast or even extra fast action rod for spinners. Length and the rest is up to you. Lure weight and action for the rod is normally printed on the blank or in the description if buying on line. The soft tip allows the spinner to do it's job... make it's "THUMP" it also allows you to monitor blade speed and make sure your getting the optimum performance from your spinner. I know that area well around Owosso, damn fine fishing through that stretch. Also I would stay away from Bait Cast for the purpose you describe, unless you know an area full of monster Muskie's around there!


Thanks and your right the chances of me running into a musky on the mighty shi are slim to none. When I lived in Owosso still I lived 2 blocks away from the river around the ball fields. A lot of fishing pressure but still nice fish to be had


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

-Axiom- said:


> For what you are describing I would use a 7' medium rod with a 2500 size reel.


Thanks for the reel advice looks like some decent priced reels in 2500 type. I see that diawa and shimano make a 2500. Is that a generic size type that all reel manufactors make?


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## -Axiom- (Jul 24, 2010)

2500/2000 is the size that most people use for bass & walleye, just guessing but it's probably the most common size sold around here.


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

mbirdsley said:


> Thanks and your right the chances of me running into a musky on the mighty shi are slim to none. When I lived in Owosso still I lived 2 blocks away from the river around the ball fields. A lot of fishing pressure but still nice fish to be had


I know, I was trying to suggest you not get a B.C. for what your doing! I fish that area with a 7'9" 3 weight built into a spinning rod and 2"-3" tubes on 4lb. Mono. In Spring when the big females are in there heavy it's almost not enough at times.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

METTLEFISH said:


> I know, I was trying to suggest you not get a B.C. for what your doing! I fish that area with a 7'9" 3 weight built into a spinning rod and 2"-3" tubes on 4lb. Mono. In Spring when the big females are in there heavy it's almost not enough at times.


I take it 2-3 inch tubes work allright with your set up with 4 lbs test? My one rod is a Berkeley glow stick with 6 lbs test I think and it throws the small spinners well but dosent retrieve them well and has a very slow action ( I only brought this rod up because it lowest raited test.) But 6 lbs test seems to low with my # 4 blades. Is it too light or am I crazy


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

mbirdsley said:


> I take it 2-3 inch tubes work allright with your set up with 4 lbs test? My one rod is a Berkeley glow stick with 6 lbs test I think and it throws the small spinners well but dosent retrieve them well and has a very slow action ( I only brought this rod up because it lowest raited test.) But 6 lbs test seems to low with my # 4 blades. Is it too light or am I crazy


 
Yes and I can throw SMALL spinners as it's action is similar to a fast action rod. NO your not crazy!...6lb. is fine for what your doing (IMO) try to use a quality line,(Mono) most of the newer top end lines are "micro diameter" you may be able to go up to 10lb. and still have the diameter of 6. IMO in that situation lighter is better, however when your hooking a lot of fish every day it does get wore out, not as much with Spinners as usually their not taking the spinner entirely in it's mouth.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

thanks for the info. In the next couple of months I will be looking for a fast action rod and put a reel on it with a high gear ratio. In another thread you stated you didn't like the Rapala Loop knot. Is there another loop knot that you prefer?


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## -Axiom- (Jul 24, 2010)

I prefer a light wire snap w/o the swivel for rapalas.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

-Axiom- said:


> I prefer a light wire snap w/o the swivel for rapalas.


Probally the smallest one you can find? any suggestion on brands? seems like all the big stores carry the big cheap gaudy ones.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

these look interesting http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/c...wNOwIQbAxpcvtK. i found from panfishing king on the snap swivel thread


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

I am with Axiom on that. The appropriate sized snap is best. Except in cold water were you're trying to slow down movement. I do not use a snap on Spinners... try the Bend that Eppinger uses to prevent twist.

www.eppinger.net 


I have had great succes with Dou Lock.

WWW.jannsnetcraft.com

Also a fast retrieve reel is best, you can always slow your down your retrieve rate...


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

. Speaking of in line spinners here are some I made tonight along with the dressed hooks. I have a bunch of different colored blades on order from lure parts on line. But I forgot to order body parts for the smaller ones. Only down fall of ordering online is when you forget or didn't know that you were outta somthing


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

It's worth the trip to Janns. "Hands on".... everything is available to inspect. They're about 10 miles into Ohio.

www.jannsnetcraft.com


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

METTLEFISH said:


> It's worth the trip to Janns. "Hands on".... everything is available to inspect. They're about 10 miles into Ohio.
> 
> www.jannsnetcraft.com


I have orders a lot from them just never been there. Looking at their catolog right now. They just don't have a lot of painted french blades. I've had limited success painting over brass and nickle. I need to step up to a wire forming jig and powder paint air gun.


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

mbirdsley said:


> I have orders a lot from them just never been there. Looking at their catolog right now. They just don't have a lot of painted french blades. I've had limited success painting over brass and nickle. I need to step up to a wire forming jig and powder paint air gun.


Just stay with the water base system. However use a clear protectant over your color. "we" paint millions on Brass/ Nickle with no issues, you must polish the blades then use prepsol. There can be no oils/waxes on the blades. Also you must reduce paint to get proper coverage/adhesion.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

METTLEFISH said:


> Just stay with the water base system. However use a clear protectant over your color. "we" paint millions on Brass/ Nickle with no issues, you must polish the blades then use prepsol. There can be no oils/waxes on the blades. Also you must reduce paint to get proper coverage/adhesion.



thanks


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## Chad Smith (Dec 13, 2008)

A good rule of thumb to determine the right rod/bait combo is to tie on the lure directly set it in the ground and slowly lift the bait off the floor/ground. If the rod loads more than a 1/2" the bait is to heavy for the rod. This is typically used more by custom rod builders as most rods have a weight rating. Using a baitcaster to throw 1/8 baits, good luck with that, 3/8 and up is ideal, you might get away with a 1/4 but 1/8 is asking a bit much.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Chad Smith said:


> A good rule of thumb to determine the right rod/bait combo is to tie on the lure directly set it in the ground and slowly lift the bait off the floor/ground. If the rod loads more than a 1/2" the bait is to heavy for the rod. This is typically used more by custom rod builders as most rods have a weight rating. Using a baitcaster to throw 1/8 baits, good luck with that, 3/8 and up is ideal, you might get away with a 1/4 but 1/8 is asking a bit much.


This makes sense. So I guess in actuality I wasn't fishing with anything to heavy. Because unless I'm bottom fishing for cats or suckers I don't have any lures that will bend my rods like that


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## Chad Smith (Dec 13, 2008)

Yeah, any ML rod will throw an 1/8 with no issues, the bigger blades and current may seem like you're overworking the rod. I use L rods and throw nothing but 1/8 and sometimes 1/16 oz spinners. I've fought and landed plenty of 2.5-3lb bass will jigging for panfish and decent trout in streams/rivers using a L rod and 4#. If you match the baits weight to what is listed on your rod you'll be fine, you can go even heavier if you cast with little snap of your wrist. I overloaded a M Fast rod by a 1/8 oz plenty of times, I got excited when I was getting follows from big pike and put to much snap on the rod, sure enough it snapped, a fast action rod is very unforgiving when over weighted. For what its worth.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Metal fish where did your reply go? Every body is teaching me alot about this. You were right when I am fishing in the current, the spinners are loading up my rod. Most of the time I can only tell there is a fish on is by the extra weight and eventually it will start fighting. In slack water there is no problem. What Chad Smith has taught me about rods give me confidence that the rest of my lures are fine with the three rods that I own which are a 
1. 6'6 medium light Berkley Glowstick 1/8 oz-5/8 oz rigged with a Okuma Avenger A20a with 6 lbs test its a very slow action its not made out of graphite I don't think. Originally bought it for night bottom fishing but it comes in handy with wading since it's small.
2. Berkley Tantix 7'0 medium heavy rod moderate action 1/4 - 1oz with a Optimum Accurist 30 with 8 lb test on it and is currently my go to rod ( this reel originally was supposed to go on my Okuma steel head rod 4 years ago but have never made it to the river steel head fishing. When Im in Frankfort we either fish off the pennyan or I am visiting family 
3. is a Gander Mountain guide series rod MH( all of the data has been rubbed of the rod from use) 6'8 rod it also has moderate action originally bought it as a combo with a phleuger knock off real but now it has a Mitchell advocet iv on it with 12 lbs test( usually put a 8lb fluoroal leader on) primarily my pike rod on the river its also kind of my odd ball rod.

All of my rods are primarily the same I would like to try a M/MH fast action spinning rod with a high gear ratio to see with the spinners. I like fishing the spinners because I can make them which are cheaper than buying them and you never know what you can catch on them. I have pulled small mouth, large mouth, rock bass, one walleye, some nice cats and pike out of the Shiawassee in Owosso. Primarily I bank fish/wade and float the river in my canoe. With moving to Chesaning/ Brant I am finding other spots including the bad river which has some amazing northern's in it as I am finding out


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

METTLEFISH said:


> Just stay with the water base system. However use a clear protectant over your color. "we" paint millions on Brass/ Nickle with no issues, you must polish the blades then use prepsol. There can be no oils/waxes on the blades. Also you must reduce paint to get proper coverage/adhesion.


Dumb question. Would a 26 gallon automotive air compressor for the garage be to much for a airbrush gun.


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

Just so much wrong with breaking a rod on the hook set I didn't want to get into it. 

No, thats no too much air. Just need good regulator and water seperator, and a QUALITY brush.

Med./Med.Heavy... Too much rod for what your doing... IMO


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## Chad Smith (Dec 13, 2008)

Breaking a rod on a hook set? If you're referring to my post I snapped a rod during cast. I wish I could say I break rods on hook sets, and I lay the wood!:lol:


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

Chad Smith said:


> Yeah, any ML rod will throw an 1/8 with no issues, the bigger blades and current may seem like you're overworking the rod. I use L rods and throw nothing but 1/8 and sometimes 1/16 oz spinners. I've fought and landed plenty of 2.5-3lb bass will jigging for panfish and decent trout in streams/rivers using a L rod and 4#. If you match the baits weight to what is listed on your rod you'll be fine, you can go even heavier if you cast with little snap of your wrist. I overloaded a M Fast rod by a 1/8 oz plenty of times, I got excited when I was getting follows from big pike and put to much snap on the rod, sure enough it snapped, a fast action rod is very unforgiving when over weighted. For what its worth.


 
You did! Perhaps I mis understood post. I have a ton of rods. I have never ever had an issue with over loading them and them snapping!... G.Loomis I presume!... a rod you can't use... Hmmmmm....


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## Chad Smith (Dec 13, 2008)

No, I didn't, I've never broken a rod on a hookset, just posted the rod broke while I was casting, the rod was a Berkely Lightning (S) 1 piece rated for 3/8, I threw an 1/2 oz spinnerbait with larger blades for more flash and vibration. I can see how it can be misunderstood though, I should have been more specific. Hope reiterating that helps...


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

Chad Smith said:


> No, I didn't, I've never broken a rod on a hookset, just posted the rod broke while I was casting, the rod was a Berkely Lightning (S) 1 piece rated for 3/8, I threw an 1/2 oz spinnerbait with larger blades for more flash and vibration. I can see how it can be misunderstood though, I should have been more specific. Hope reiterating that helps...


 
I would believe that rod was damaged prior to the cast. It should not of broke from that.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

How does any body feel about a L/M berkley lighting rod. We stopped by Cebelas yesterday in saginaw and was probally the fastest action that they had with out going to big. Acctually suprised at what little selection Cabelas in saginaw had but, maybe it has to do with it being january. Any other suggestion to check out. would like to keep the rod and reel around $100ish


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

mbirdsley said:


> How does any body feel about a L/M berkley lighting rod. We stopped by Cebelas yesterday in saginaw and was probally the fastest action that they had with out going to big. Acctually suprised at what little selection Cabelas in saginaw had but, maybe it has to do with it being january. Any other suggestion to check out. would like to keep the rod and reel around $100ish


No offense to Berkley. Save your money and go good.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

So what about like a gander mtn rod?


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## METTLEFISH (Jan 31, 2009)

I have no experience with them. I do know they are not made by g.M. they sub them out. I do have some experience with Cabelas rods. I can / would recommend them.


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## mbirdsley (Jan 12, 2012)

Do you have any expiernce making your own?


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