# Car doors, rust starting



## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

2010 Ford Escape.
I'm noticing a small amount of rust inside along the welds, and slight bubbling under the outside paint on the the seams at the bottom of the tailgate and doors. Not able to start sanding - filling, matching metallic paints etc.
Wondering if I park it outside to both drip and air out the fumes, and then try soaking the inside of the doors with a liberal amount of WD 40 using it's small tube - all along the existing drip holes? It displaces moisture so I'm thinking it will slow the process? Would there be something else to add afterward or something different to try? Simple, easy and Cheap?


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## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

Ahh... 2010-2012 model year escapes. Ford really bungled the design and paint on those vehicles.

The doors will be the least of your problems. I'm surprised your rear quarter panels haven't rusted through yet.


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

I'll watch the panels too, thanks.
Any ideas/tips out there?


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

jimp said:


> I'll watch the panels too, thanks.
> Any ideas/tips out there?


Hate to say it but my sister In Law, had the best plan to deal with it, she sold both of theirs and bought something else. I know all manufacturers have their issues, but those Escapes rust quicker than an early 80's Chevy pickup, and those were terrible.........


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## Al L (Mar 22, 2001)

You can try to remove all the inter panals so you have access to the inter workings of the doors and lift gate. 

Once you have that access spray POR 15 In there all around the seams and don't be chincy with the stuff. then on th eout side sand the paint off and spray again with POR 15 (POR paint over rust) then get cans of touch up spray paint and that should help for a pretty good amount of time.

POR 15 seals the area so air can not get in there to continue to rust.

Lots of good You tube vids. to watch on the subject.


 Al


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

Al L said:


> You can try to remove all the inter panals so you have access to the inter workings of the doors and lift gate.
> 
> Once you have that access spray POR 15 In there all around the seams and don't be chincy with the stuff. then on th eout side sand the paint off and spray again with POR 15 (POR paint over rust) then get cans of touch up spray paint and that should help for a pretty good amount of time.
> 
> ...


Not qualified nor limber enough to start dismantling panels.
I may have found the solution though from a neighbor that refurbishes older cars.

First he says wire brush any loose material on the inner welds. 
Then wipe well with alcohol, and tape off the good section.
Spray a couple thin coats of "Zero Rust".
It comes in quite a few colors and the gray will do just fine on mine.
Do this first as it will not adhere to the draining inner sprays.









Clean out any of the drain holes if they're blocked.

Next, after a couple days, spray generously with "Sta-bil" rust stopper in through the drain holes.
POR 15 could work too.
For vertical areas or places with no drain holes he said drill 3/16" holes in the upper areas to insert the tiny spray tube and shoot sideways or down.
Sounds simple enough, gonna try it soon.


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## Al L (Mar 22, 2001)

If you have a car restoreeing friend then he should tell you that removing door pads and hatch pads isn't all that hard.

Bet he only does it so he can sell them, not add to a collection.

Like a lot of the bad old days rust proofers did, drill holes in the doors and spray a line of rthe stuf fin the door and usually not where it is needed. Some times gumming up the window regulators even.

 Al


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## MIoutdoorsjunkie (Oct 11, 2006)

My brother has a 2010 escape and the thing is pretty rusty. Common. Here is what you need to do to stop it. 

If you live in southeast michigan, head to Lexington, mi and you will find a "KROWN" Spray shop. Or, head across the border to Sarnia, Windsor, or the Soo. KROWN is a Canadian company that specializes in oil spraying vehicles to prevent rust damage. Google them and read the reviews. Well worth it and cheap insurace for a vehive you plan on driving into the ground. 

I am a DIYer so I bought a "Fluid film" kit from a company on line. I think they are called kellsport. The kit came complete with two gallons of fluid film, shutz gun, nozzles, and wands. I have done all my vehicles for several years and there is not a speck of rust on any of them. I don't drill them but that is an option. 

I highly recommend this treatment for anyone who doesn't lease and lives in michigan. Well worth it. 

Ps...this stuff is a creeping thin oil like fluid. It seeps into every crack and crevice and never dries. It is not the tar like stuff from days of old that created more damage than it helped.


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## Perchdog (Oct 23, 2005)

A little late to the party but this is something I have been messing with for the past couple of years. I have a 2012 P71 police cruiser and also have rust starting on bottom of doors plus the rocker panels whach was hidden under plastic trim.

First of all POR15 is nasty, finicky but tough as nails when applied correctly. 95% of the work is in prep, it requires surface to be completely free of oil and etched prior to application. They do sell a very good cleaner degreaser and metal prep etching solution, Problem is it is to cold for the products to work effectively, a couple of winters back I was working on some truck pieces, I was cleaning and etching in laundry tub using hot water, very effective. Also POR15 can only be sprayed through a gun, requires thinning with their special thinner. Straight out of the can brushing is the recommended by manufacturer (Absolute Coatings). Good news is only flakey rust needs to be removed, it anchors into rust very well and stops it, on shiny metal it does not work so well that is where etching of the metal is required. Wire brushing is the ticket as long as all the loose scale is removed it will anchor and stop rust from spreading.

I also have a project F150 that has all the frame and suspension treated with POR15, I find it very very abrasive to work with. If you get any on skin it will be there for one or two weeks, nothing cuts it. Also the fumes are very nasty, I wear resperater even in the ontdoors with a breeze, cleaner and metal prep very hard on exposed skin and lungs.

Bach to the Crown Vic doors which is the last project for this year and current. I removed iner door panels and sprayed inside bottoms with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, the directions on the can recommended using their cleaner and encapsulater prior to application, the website does not specify this. The inside of my doors were rust free so I vacuumed lose dirt and sand then applied. This product comes as an aerosol with a 24 inch hose and spray head on end, it is meant to be used in confined places (ie box frame).
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

The rust started showing on inside of rear door bottoms, where the metal is folded over and offers trap for water to sit. Those areas I have wire brushed with 4" wheel, I am waiting for warmer weather Thursday or so to degrease and prep then brush with POR15 and chassis coating over that.

it may seem I am hyper critical of POR15, I can assure you that is not the case for it is great stuff in the right application with the right prep. It is sensitive to UV rays, it is very noxious and like I said finicky. For instance manufacturer claims one drop of sweat will kill off a quart of the stuff. Also it is very thin out of the can, the amount of coverage from a half pint would amaze you . In my opinion the six packs are the way to go because once opened the entire can will start to cure which can be slowed but not stopped, a six pack is six 1/2 pint cans.

One last comment, POR15 has a lot of bad press out there on the internet. Most of this I think is result of improper cleaning and prep. The Eastwood products tend toned little prep and has a lot of good press on the interweb. I did have a situation where I used POR15 on outside of the truck frame and about a month latter used the internal frame coating for the inside of frame. Where the frame had holes it attacked the cured POR15 to the point where it was bubbling up and not anchor to metal anymore. I had to remove loose coating re-prep and reapply. Since I have been careful to use internal frame coating first, l;et fully cure then do the POR15 work.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Six-Pack--Black_p_13.html
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser_p_14.html
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep_p_15.html

ever wonder why they call it a pig ?










Prepped and etched, done with hot water










Oh yeah, don't be a dumb ass... Do read and fully understand directions prior to jumping in. This stuff is by no means fun to sand...


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

I went with post #6 on a nice warm day a couple of weeks ago.
Parked with all doors and liftgate open and facing the sun.
Went through the whole procedure and sprayed 2 cans of the Stabil inside everywhere.
Bent the little red tube to get around inside corners in a few places .
Drained pretty good from all the holes so I know it's saturated...we'll see.
Hopefully something will be better than nothing.
Thanks for all the replies.


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