# Deleting windows in a cabin...Do's and dont's?



## MIoutdoorsjunkie (Oct 11, 2006)

Guys.. 

Need a bit of advice from rough carpenters or whomever.. I hunt on my buddies land and have offered to help him fix up his cabin. It is 30x30 and in pretty bad shape. Long story short, I am not a carpenter by any means. Have done interior trim work, am decent when it comes to builidng things out of wood, but have no experience with windows, wall studs etc... 

The 30x30 cabin is wood sided (in bad shape) and has 8 or 10 windows for whatever reason. Way to many for what he needs. The windows are at least 50 years old and leak like crazy. The foundation is in bad shape and has caused the cabin to shift creating gaps everywhere. Sooner or later, when money allows, the foundation will need to be rebuilt but for the time being, rather than replace the windows He would like to delete most of them. He has problems with mice, squirrels and bugs getting through the gaps an into the interior of the cabin. 

What is the best way to go about completely deleting a window. I assume we would pull the old windows, put studs where they used to be, plywood on the outside, insulation and drywall on the inside... Eventually the cabin will be vinyl sided and I would think we could side right over the exterior plywood. is this the best way of doing this job? 

All suggestions are welcome. Just trying to figure out a cost effective method to seal the cabin up so that the vermin problem will lessen significantly or go away completely. 

Thanks!! Appreciate any and all responses...
Jeff


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## Big Reds (Oct 14, 2007)

Sounds like you have it all figured out. 
Remove the whole window (frame and all) and stud it up. Typically, you would install one on each side of the opening and possibly one in the middle. Don't go over 2' centers on studs. 1/2" plywood (or OSB) the exterior insulate and install drywall.
Pretty straight forward project.


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## MIoutdoorsjunkie (Oct 11, 2006)

Thanks Big Reds.... Appreciate it. That is what I figured but wasnt sure about a moisture barrier or anything else. Just want to make sure it is done right so we dont have to redo it at a later date.


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## MIoutdoorsjunkie (Oct 11, 2006)

One more thing... any suggestions regarding the exsiting wood siding? It is rough saw wood siding that runs horizontally along the outside of the cabin. Obviously if we remove a window, stud up the opening, and the plywood or OSD the outside there will be a gap between the existing wood siding (Rough sawn and not flat) and the plywood used to cover the window opening. Suggestions...? as I said, we have never really done anything like this before. 

Thanks


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## Richard Cranium (Feb 27, 2008)

junkie....

If i am reading you correctly regarding the "difference" between the Oriented Strand Board (OSB) and the siding, I would recommend several tubes of liquid trim (caulk) to compensate and fill any voids.

DH


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## WoW (Oct 26, 2010)

MIoutdoorsjunkie said:


> Thanks Big Reds.... Appreciate it. That is what I figured but wasnt sure about a moisture barrier or anything else. Just want to make sure it is done right so we dont have to redo it at a later date.


 
Obviously, you are going to have to put studs in the rough opening around the edges to have something to affix the insulation and gypsum board to on the inside. You may as well stud it in right by going w/ 16" centers so there is no guessing.

As far as the exterior sheating, OSB is cheaper but, will not withstand the rigors of outside exposure without being painted or sided. Even plwood needs to be coated but, it won't swell up and fall apart like OSB will if you don't do it.


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## The_Don (Apr 28, 2008)

WoW said:


> As far as the exterior sheating, OSB is cheaper but, will not withstand the rigors of outside exposure without being painted or sided. Even plwood needs to be coated but, it won't swell up and fall apart like OSB will if you don't do it.


Yeah it only delaminates and warps....6 of 1 half dozen of the other.


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## Flyhack (Jul 12, 2009)

The_Don said:


> Yeah it only delaminates and warps....6 of 1 half dozen of the other.


T-111 siding will last until you are ready to spend some money on the rest of the problems. You could mount it sideways to match the lines of the wood siding. There are also cement board siding types that would probably match existing. Caulk to seal the gaps.


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## Big Reds (Oct 14, 2007)

To do this right you should try to match the existing siding. The reason I mentioned OSB was not to be an exterior product. I figured you would also install the rough sawn over the OSB.
Any "gapages" should be caulked with a good exterior paintable/stainable caulking product.
The final outcome depends solely on your pocketbook and determining if it is worth the extra costs.

Where is the cabin located? Maybe I could help you out with this project.


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## snaggs (Jul 20, 2005)

BEST FIX.>.>.>.> A MATCH .....:lol::lol::lol: Just kidding.


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## GWPguy (Feb 16, 2004)

Mice nee a hole the size of a pencil eraser to get in. Even with the windows fixed, they will still get in. Your solution will stop the water damage.


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## MIoutdoorsjunkie (Oct 11, 2006)

Thanks for all the responses!! Appreciate all the help. Didnt end up messing with the windows this past weekend. They will have to wait. Fixed some drywall damages from the leaky roof that had recently been re-shingled. Windows will have to wait... 

Snaggs....you are not kidding... ha ha ha... The cabin needs ALOT of TLC. Foundation is in terrible shape. Really it just needs to be knocked down and rebulit. Problem is, the cabin owner cannot afford a rebuild or the higher property taxes if he decided to pull permits for the a rebuild. 

Solution... Put lipstick on a sow.... patch..patch...patch... ha ha ha

Thanks 
Jeff


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