# Alternatives to marine plywood for boat deck?



## NittanyDoug

We're kicking around the idea of re-flooring our 16'er. I know we could just replace the plywood that's in it. I'm looking for other options. The Starboard is pretty expensive. There is a product called Coosa Bluewater and Coosa Nautical that are less. I was even considering Azek sheets. 

We will be covering with marine vinyl to replace the carpeting. Does anyone have any experience with an alternative to marine plywood? Where can I even find it locally. The Coosa products are more expensive than marine plywood but then I don't have to go through the hoops of making sure I have all edges, holes, etc sealed. Say I forget to predrill a hole before I install it. When I put the hole in for a screw, I've just created a potential spot for rot in the marine plywood. Will it take years, likely, but I am a fan of making sure it's done right the first time so I don't have to do it again. And if we ever get rid of the boat, it's nice to be sure that you are passing on a problem to someone else.

I"ve heard the Azek expands. I'm talking about a roughly 4x8 sheet. I don't recall the weight of the Azek. The Coosa is lighter than plywood.

What thickness does anyone suspect that our floor is? It's a '94 Starcraft PikeMaster 16'. 

The plan is to start with the main floor. Some slight modifications to layout. And if that goes well, maybe next year the front deck gets changed out as well. The boat is still in storage, so I can't measure.

Thanks for any help.


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## john warren

i did one with good old exterior plywood. after i cut it all out i used a paint roller to coat it with fiberglass resin, i sold it after 12 years and it was still fine. might be an option for you.


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## NittanyDoug

The whole process of having to coat something like that is a step I would like to avoid if possible.


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## jatc

NittanyDoug said:


> We're kicking around the idea of re-flooring our 16'er. I know we could just replace the plywood that's in it. I'm looking for other options. The Starboard is pretty expensive. There is a product called Coosa Bluewater and Coosa Nautical that are less. I was even considering Azek sheets.
> 
> We will be covering with marine vinyl to replace the carpeting. Does anyone have any experience with an alternative to marine plywood? Where can I even find it locally. The Coosa products are more expensive than marine plywood but then I don't have to go through the hoops of making sure I have all edges, holes, etc sealed. Say I forget to predrill a hole before I install it. When I put the hole in for a screw, I've just created a potential spot for rot in the marine plywood. Will it take years, likely, but I am a fan of making sure it's done right the first time so I don't have to do it again. And if we ever get rid of the boat, it's nice to be sure that you are passing on a problem to someone else.
> 
> I"ve heard the Azek expands. I'm talking about a roughly 4x8 sheet. I don't recall the weight of the Azek. The Coosa is lighter than plywood.
> 
> What thickness does anyone suspect that our floor is? It's a '94 Starcraft PikeMaster 16'.
> 
> The plan is to start with the main floor. Some slight modifications to layout. And if that goes well, maybe next year the front deck gets changed out as well. The boat is still in storage, so I can't measure.
> 
> Thanks for any help.



Just so you know, but actual MARINE grade plywood (Greenwood XL50) does not need to be sealed. Cut it, put screws in it, drill holes, it doesn't hurt it at all. The treatment is homogenous throughout the material.

I understand that you only want to do it once, but for the cost of composite vs. the marine grade, and the ease of working with it, I know I'd be using the plywood. You'll get minimum thirty years out of XL50.


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## Chx trapper

You would probably do best with the ply and a good epoxy encapsulation then just make sure you bed stuff with 4200


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## NittanyDoug

I'll say it again...I don't want to do the coating, sealing, epoxy etc. 

Jatc - I've seen the greenwood product but I didn't know about it not needing the seal. I thought you still had to do cut edges etc. 

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## tuckersdad

I used ply and had it LINE-X'ed prior to putting it back down...should last the rest of my lifetime...(I know you don't want to coat anything-just offering another suggestion)...prior to that I was considering aluminum diamond plate-it shows up at the local salvage yard on occasion in 4x8 sheets...


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## aroflinger

I am trying to get the OK from my wife to have thick aluminum sheeting welded to the sides. That way if it rains it just runs right out the back to the plug hole. Then I would glue carpet to the floor. Total cost would be about 400 bucks. Also its half or more the weight of marine grade ply wood. And won't get heavier when it rains. 

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## diesels77

Aluminum!


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## NittanyDoug

I understand the desire for aluminum but I do not have the tools to work with the aluminum. The coosa board is lighter than plywood but doesn't have the rot issues. It's supposedly dimensionally stable. 

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## aroflinger

I just called on that coosa board, it sounds awesome. It is a little pricy. ¾ 4X8 sheet is 325. And I would need 2 of them. So that's a no go for me. 

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## jinxedone

I'll tell ya what works great, my buddy gutted his floor and laid down thin wall panneling, then i layed fiberglass over that and sealed it up. super lightweight and water proof also.. He was very impressed with how it turned out and he saved money by doing it.


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## jinxedone

i run a fiberglass repair shop, so put the wood down, and then bring me your boat, i'll hook you up bro


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## aroflinger

How much does that cost? 4ft wide by 17ft 

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## NittanyDoug

Aroflinger, where did you call for the coosa? From what I've read we might be able to go with 1/2" board. From what I've seen online the coosa is about $200 per sheet. Granted its over 2x's cost of marine ply but it's a one time thing. For all small boat I look at it as a small investment. If we had to but many sheets then I may be deterred by the cost.


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## aroflinger

Boatoutfiters.com and I just called that one place. When talking to the guy this morning he said that I would probably need ¾. In all reality I could probably get away with ½ it even &#8541;. He is more than likely up selling me for commission.

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## jinxedone

also a good alternative to replacing the carpet, after the fiberglass is laid down while still wet, sprinkle sand on it and let it dry, and ya end up with a no slip surface that will stay dry and not collect and hold moisture. the whole project would probably cost less then 200.00 total, just a thought.


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## aroflinger

Hummmm that is a thought. Where is your shop located?

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## jinxedone

Chesaning, MI...Google says 138 miles NE of you approx 2 hrs away from ya.


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## jinxedone

prior to me fixing my buds boat, he had 3/4 treated plywood with carpet over that that he used to fix the mushy floor that he had...instead of ripping the rot all the way out he just covered it...big mistake. it was good for a couple years but became so water logged and continued to rot and get mushy... when all was said and done we lightened his boat 300 pounds or more, and he was able to get his boat up on a plane and quickly at that. He said it was better then new afterwards.


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## NittanyDoug

I know this is my old post but we bought the coosa and sold the boat before ever installing it. If anyone is interested in 2 sheets of 3/4" blue water 20 at a steep discount off what it would cost you from from tpi lete know.


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