# Walleye crawler harness tying.



## ESOX

Well folks, it's the middle of winter, and I am done tying bugs for a while. Thought I would try my hand at tying some crawler harnesses. 
Never done it and I look at the store boughts, they are all over the place.
What size/style(s) of blades work best for you?
Colors? 
hook types/sizes and spacing? 
Pretty much need a primer I guess.:help: Any insight would be appreciated.
Got that fancy kicker on the boat, may as well put it to use dragging some meat around this spring.
Thanks.


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## gunrod

Good post Paul. I was considering doing some myself. I look forward to the info too. I've done some searching on blades and most seem generic (gold, copper, silver and brass). Couldn't find many of the different colors (fire tiger, orange, purple, etc....). Let me know if you find any in different colors or want to split some bulk materials.


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## ESOX

Janns has a good variety of painted blades. Last spring hammered copper and hammered gold did fairly well by me the few times I tried them. I'd be interested in a bulk buy when we figure out what we want.


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## Sixgun

Color is a personal preference, but I like to use blades that are plated with real gold, silver, or copper. I feel they flash better. Warrior willow blades are my current favorites.

Hooks..This year I'm going to try Matzuo sickle hooks. I'm using a #2 single with up turned eye for the front, and a #6 treble for the rear.

Spacing is the length of my fist. I put the treble in the crease between palm and little finger and the single positioned at the top of my index finger. I hope that made sense.

I use 17 lb. fluorocarbon for my harnesses.

Hope that helps,

Ray


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## Michihunter

I use the instructions supplied by Mike Giamporte http://dns.advnet.net/mkg/harness/index.htm

I normally just mix/match colors and spoon options. Best luck always seems to come from hammered brass blades in a hatchet style with red beads(5- #6 beads seems to work well).


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## ESOX

Sixgun said:


> Color is a personal preference, but I like to use blades that are plated with real gold, silver, or copper. I feel they flash better. Warrior willow blades are my current favorites.
> 
> Hooks..This year I'm going to try Matzuo sickle hooks. I'm using a #2 single with up turned eye for the front, and a #6 treble for the rear.
> 
> Spacing is the length of my fist. I put the treble in the crease between palm and little finger and the single positioned at the top of my index finger. I hope that made sense.
> 
> I use 17 lb. fluorocarbon for my harnesses.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Ray


Yes, that makes a bit of sense, thanks. Never saw a harness with a treble on it, that would get those short hitters. 
The only blades I know of plated with real gold and silver are Hildebrants, are those what you use, or is there another brand ?
I have a mess of Hildebrants, but they are all too big, I use them for muskie spinners. Dang, they ain't cheap either. :SHOCKED::lol:


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## eboll

janns is a good place to get started. i like the vmc octupus hooks, #2 or #4, 2 of them. spacing is the width of your hand. i never use trebles, but thats just preference. as far as blades, i like to paint my own. its fun and you can make some sick color combos that you cant buy at the store. 15lb p-liine 100% fluorocarbon is the best line to use IMO. make sure you have ball bearing swivels on your mainline. saves a lot of tangles. above all, have fun and be creative. its very satisfying catching fish on something you made.


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## eboll

and to answer your other question, i generally run colorado blades in size 3 or 4. they spin much better than the bigger blades do when your are going fast or are in deep water. i do have willow and hatchet blades on hand though. sometimes the different vibration will trigger negative fish.


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## Sixgun

Esox,

These are what I like: http://www.warriorlures.com/FishingSpoons.aspx?t=5

Using the treble for the last hook is an open water thing. I'd use two singles if I was going to drag harnesses in the river.

Ray


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## chamookman

Paul - I tie all My harnesses - for inland lakes, I like #3 - #4 deep cup Colorados. With all the differant blades out there, Ya can't beat Northlands holographics ! A super place to get components is - www.lurepartsonline.com - formerly Stamina Inc. . I used to buy all colors of beads, but all I use any more is red, green and purple. Clevises - I always used to use the quick-change ones, but any more I prefer the folded stirup type. Swivels - after years of trial and error, do Yourself a favor and use the chain swivels - with 4 - 6 barrels. Pick up a Plano 3731 box - a pool noodle (cut to size for 3731) and You're good to go - Have fun ! C-man


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## ESOX

Getting some great info here, thanks guys.


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## D and L

Hi Esox, I started tying my own a few years ago and it really is a blast to catch walleye on something you made yourself ! Now is a great time to make em too. 
Here is another link to a good site for you...
http://www.walleyesinc.com/walleyeinc3/howtotie.html 

Best regards, Laura


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## alex-v

gunrod said:


> I've done some searching on blades and most seem generic (gold, copper, silver and brass). Couldn't find many of the different colors (fire tiger, orange, purple, etc....). Let me know if you find any in different colors or want to split some bulk materials.


Do a search of the warm water forums. You will find info on all the colors and sizes of blades. More info than you can read in a reasonable amount of time.

Then, contact D&B Fishing. Ask them what shows they are going to in the next couple of months. Go to the shows and look at all of the blades they have for sale. Then there are all the beads in various sizes and colors.

In the long run it is a lot easier than searching and searching and searching.


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## icefishin nutz

D and L said:


> Hi Esox, I started tying my own a few years ago and it really is a blast to catch walleye on something you made yourself ! Now is a great time to make em too.
> Here is another link to a good site for you...
> http://www.walleyesinc.com/walleyeinc3/howtotie.html
> 
> Best regards, Laura


Hey Esox,,,, Great post I was searching the other day for a thread like this!! Thanks for that link Laura, after catching my first Walleye on Mike Wagners boat last year,, I am hooked What a great adrenaline rush reeling it in & pulling it into the boat  I loved it!!! So I decided that after Jay & I donated all of our harnesses to the SCR:yikes:,,, I would start making my own, especially since we used up most of Joeker & Wagners harnesses:SHOCKED: and it's our turn to supply the tackle this spring


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## captain jay

Matzuo sickle hooks is all I ever use now. Since I switched over to those a couple summers ago, I have had very few fish come unbuttoned. I tie all mine with willow leaf blades. I troll a little faster during the summer on Erie, and the willows pull better through the water at 1.3 to 2.0. Every time I try a colorado at those speeds, it always comes in tangeled in a ball.

Captain Jay


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## ESOX

Ok, next question..... these bill generally be run behind Bottom Bouncers. How long should I make them 36"?
ThX.....


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## Elk5012

I make my harnesses 48 inches long.


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## Buddwiser

I make mine 36" to 48" with no set length, just what I pull off the spool.
I buy my supplies at Lakeside.


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## Sixgun

I make open water harnesses the length of my wingspan. (about 6 foot), Bouncer harnesses I make arm length to center of chest, or 1/2 wingspan.

I actually do own a tapemeasure, but this is easier.

Ray


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## WALLEYE MIKE

36"-48" If I want one a little longer, I just add some premade leaders. I make leaders too from 2 ft. to 6 ft. Another use for leaders is when I use spoons behind B/B's.


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