# Wife wanted a butcher block style counter top



## mark.n.chip (Jun 16, 2007)

This will be at our 3 season cottage in a 7'x46" island w/ sink. She wants to have a smaller deep 
under mount sink. What would be recommended to seal the wood especially around the sink? I'm guessing epoxy, but never messed w/ it. Is it easy to use? Or what else is recommenced?


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

Yup epoxy. I have used west systems epoxy for boat building .Epoxy has become very popular these days for wood counter tops, and there are dedicated manufacturers of the epoxy for doing just this. Its not hard just follow the manufacturers guidelines. I haven't done counter tops or table tops yet.


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

https://epoxycountertopdiy.com/


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

I will add. Epoxy sets up pretty quick and you have about a 20 minute working window, so make sure you have everything set and ready to go and be methodical.


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## sparky18181 (Apr 17, 2012)

And have a propane torch to get the air bubbles out for a smooth glass like finish


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

sparky18181 said:


> And have a propane torch to get the air bubbles out for a smooth glass like finish


And be aware that adding heat to expoxy really speeds up the cure time.


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## sparky18181 (Apr 17, 2012)

Fishndude said:


> And be aware that adding heat to expoxy really speeds up the cure time.


That’s the only way I know of to get air bubbles out. If you know a better way I d love to hear them. Thanks


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

The Pot Life of epoxies varies quite a bit. Some take a couple minutes to have their viscosity increase significantly, while others can go for hours. But once it starts to gel, it really just needs to be left alone. And trust the mix ratios - do NOT try to alter the amount of hardener you add, to get a longer Pot Life. Mixing ratios are very specifically engineered for the optimum performance, with any epoxies. Changing the ratios can cause epoxy to not cure fully, or to cure too brittle, or any myriad of things that can go wrong. But following the directions exactly, weighing your resin and hardener, and mixing thoroughly (read up on it, because it isn't as simple as most would imagine - machine mixing is really best) will give you the best results. 

And, yes, adding some heat will help the bubbles pop-out. But if your Pot Life is 20 minutes (20 minutes to work with the epoxy before you must leave it alone until it is fully cured), then adding heat can probably reduce that time to 5 minutes, or less. I was only cautioning so someone doesn't try this, and ruin an entire counter, trying to apply a clean epoxy finish.


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## nitetime (May 11, 2006)

West system GOUGEON BROTHERS, INC in bay city Michigan call or email

There very helpful and they have a free magazine that they will email you every three months all about how people use there products. Been getting it for over ten years back when it was paper. You can buy from them or Amazon.

I emailed them and had a reply the next day.


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

Yep, the Gougeon's (Jan and Meade) are pioneers of epoxy technology. They were friends of my Father, and I have friends who have worked for the company. Their products are top-notch, although I'm not sure they are the right products for the application the OP is looking for. Their website has great information for using epoxy, as well. Their vacuum system for laminating wood/epoxy is still the best around.

https://www.westsystem.com/gbi-history/


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

Fishndude said:


> Yep, the Gougeon's (Jan and Meade) are pioneers of epoxy technology. They were friends of my Father, and I have friends who have worked for the company. Their products are top-notch, although I'm not sure they are the right products for the application the OP is looking for. Their website has great information for using epoxy, as well. Their vacuum system for laminating wood/epoxy is still the best around.
> 
> https://www.westsystem.com/gbi-history/


Yeah I don't know if I would use west systems on a countertop. I use it in the shop for some glue up applications, and wetting out glass on boats, but I would probably look into something specifically designed for countertop applications if I were going to do a countertop. I am considering doing a small countertop on one of my bathroom vanities with a beautiful piece of curly maple slab that I have, Ill be interested in following this thread.


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

Here is a link to the biggest mistakes DIY epoxy countertop applicators should avoid
https://www.countertopepoxy.com/blo...iyers-make-when-installing-epoxy-countertops/

Here is a link to a product that is specifically designed for countertops. I cannot vouch for the performance of this product in any way.
https://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-clear-epoxy-for-countertops-bar-tops/

I will add that, since epoxy is a sort of plastic, it _*will*_ scratch/scuff, and you won't really be able to do much about the scratches and scuffs, other than sand it up, and apply a new surface coat. Maybe the epoxies formulated for countertops resist scratching more than all of the epoxies I've worked with? I've only worked with epoxies that are structural, rather than aesthetic. We made stuff look as good as we could.


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/behlen-rockhard-table-top-urethane-varnish-gloss-quart

I used West System to fill some knot holes and cracks on my pine countertops, pine dining room table and a 16’ x24” pine countertop in the lodge at our camp. I used the above Rockhard Table Top varnish as a finish. It’s been over 20 years now and all still look like new. You can set glasses full of liquid and it won’t leave a white ring like polyurethane does. It’s a very hard gloss finish and like nothing else I could find on the market. I brushed prob 7-8 coats on, it could be sprayed also. It leveled out very well by brushing. If you ever want to refinish, sand it and put a couple coats back on it. I’ve never had to refinish mine. 
Expensive, but worth it. I’d definitely use it again. 

Wood countertops get a lot of little dings and dents, but I don’t mind as it adds to the character.


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

@mark.n.chip Did you get into this project? I have been looking into this option and went with stone coat epoxy. I am going to experiment with product on a few slabs and some faux granite applications just to check it out. https://www.stonecoatcountertops.co...tCgKWOCUUCFsai97p6vuUgX3F97fTpOAaArRHEALw_wcB


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## mark.n.chip (Jun 16, 2007)

I have the counter built but she has not picked out a sink yet, so no cutout has been done to epoxy around. I believe I will use the stone coat products but just clear as she wants the butcher block to show through.


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## ds619 (Feb 11, 2003)

I thought of using epoxy for mine. Did some research and talked with several people. I used Waterlox on mine. https://www.amazon.com/Waterlox-Ori...ocphy=9058203&hvtargid=pla-441873369515&psc=1
I have over half left. It’s yours if you want it


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## ds619 (Feb 11, 2003)

Here is a photo after 4 coats and putting tile up


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## mark.n.chip (Jun 16, 2007)

ds619 said:


> I thought of using epoxy for mine. Did some research and talked with several people. I used Waterlox on mine. https://www.amazon.com/Waterlox-Ori...ocphy=9058203&hvtargid=pla-441873369515&psc=1
> I have over half left. It’s yours if you want it



I love to take it off your hands but I'm in Traverse City. Don't know how I'd get it from you. Even if I paid shipping would the freezing cold ruin it?


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## mark.n.chip (Jun 16, 2007)

Finally got this project completed. Thanks to ds619 for the water lox he sent me. Five coats later and 600 grit sanding between and I think it turned out well. I’ve never done something like this before just small cutting boards.


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## Jiw275 (Jan 1, 2015)

Very nice.


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## Nostromo (Feb 14, 2012)

Well, that came out nice!


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## stickman1978 (Sep 15, 2011)

mark.n.chip said:


> Finally got this project completed. Thanks to ds619 for the water lox he sent me. Five coats later and 600 grit sanding between and I think it turned out well. I’ve never done something like this before just small cutting boards.
> View attachment 559899


What would you say was the cost for the counter top? Per sq ft if that's easier. Thanks


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## ds619 (Feb 11, 2003)

stickman1978 said:


> What would you say was the cost for the counter top? Per sq ft if that's easier. Thanks





stickman1978 said:


> What would you say was the cost for the counter top? Per sq ft if that's easier. Thanks


Costs for me 300 for the 2 8 ft birch countertop and a little over a hundred for the gallon of Waterlox.


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## stickman1978 (Sep 15, 2011)

ds619 said:


> Costs for me 300 for the 2 8 ft birch countertop and a little over a hundred for the gallon of Waterlox.


Thanks. Just reread your post and see that you used birch. Looks darker than that.


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## mark.n.chip (Jun 16, 2007)

stickman1978 said:


> Thanks. Just reread your post and see that you used birch. Looks darker than that.


This is my countertop in this post.DS619 GAVE me the waterlox to finish it.. The top is made out of cherry and stained cherry with the waterlox used to seal out the water.


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