# river floats



## Ballyhoo (Sep 26, 2016)

I always knew there was something to understanding the entire plethora of details to Steelhead fishing here in Michigan. Over the past year, I have been putting in my time to learn techniques in rigging from floating spawn to walking spawn to wobble glows to beads to egg sucking leech flies. I recently purchased some floats to be able to "float spawn" this spring. I have purchased some different brands and I think they all work but the physics to floats can be a little confusing. So, I wanted to share this brand chart which features the cadillac of floats (in my opinion) to help other anglers like myself grasp the physics and guide you in buying the range of floats you need to present the spawn properly. When you first look at this chart you will think WTHeck and if you have a color deficiency ask your buddy to help. 
I was on the St Joe this past Saturday with a great Captain and my good friend. We fished hard using crank baits and walking freshly cured mongo chunks of spawn. It was brisk and the sun was bright and the fish were on holiday. We did manage to get one on spawn and we hope to get back out this weekend. 
Tight lines, be safe on the rivers(s) and last but not least hook and cook!


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## LushLife (Mar 3, 2008)

Fast & Deep 11g almost ALL of the time - load up with lead correctly and learn to check and you'll present just fine


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## Swampbuckster (Nov 28, 2010)

Man they sure complicated the bobber.


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## jmaddog8807 (Oct 6, 2009)

I agree, fast and deep 11g or 15g almost all the time. Think the right amount of lead to get the bait down is more important.


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## Trout King (May 1, 2002)

Any meijer bob will do. Thill is my usual choice. Big or small depending on the water.


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## Swampbuckster (Nov 28, 2010)

I have been running 15-20g Raven floats (RVFFD4,5) with my center pin in any water slow,fast,deep, shallow. I don't know if it is just me or the way I cast, but I need a lot of weight to get the results and distance I desire. I sometimes think people get way too caught up in bobber fishing and "matching the exact current speed". I don't think the fish really care. They don't care when back bouncing directly behind the boat. They don't care when bottom bouncing. They don't care which way you run a plug. Upriver, down, or holding still in current. I seem to catch fish with all of these methods.


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## Aidan Zubak (Aug 30, 2020)

When you're adjusting depth using a raven float and beads. What determines depth? The length from your bobber to the hook? Or is it from your In line sinker to the hook? I get a little confused on what I need to be adjusting. I run a fixed raven float 15g fast and deep (tubing) on 30lbs braid to a .5 oz in line sinker to 15 lbs fluorocarbon leader of about 3 feet down to my bead and hook.


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## jwheelfan03 (Jun 9, 2011)

Ballyhoo said:


> I always knew there was something to understanding the entire plethora of details to Steelhead fishing here in Michigan. Over the past year, I have been putting in my time to learn techniques in rigging from floating spawn to walking spawn to wobble glows to beads to egg sucking leech flies. I recently purchased some floats to be able to "float spawn" this spring. I have purchased some different brands and I think they all work but the physics to floats can be a little confusing. So, I wanted to share this brand chart which features the cadillac of floats (in my opinion) to help other anglers like myself grasp the physics and guide you in buying the range of floats you need to present the spawn properly. When you first look at this chart you will think WTHeck and if you have a color deficiency ask your buddy to help.
> I was on the St Joe this past Saturday with a great Captain and my good friend. We fished hard using crank baits and walking freshly cured mongo chunks of spawn. It was brisk and the sun was bright and the fish were on holiday. We did manage to get one on spawn and we hope to get back out this weekend.
> Tight lines, be safe on the rivers(s) and last but not least hook and cook!


Or C.P.R...
Catch
Picture
Release

I’d be nice if there was a float that actually lasted. I personally use Ravens the most but blood run and ravens both crack pretty easily. The eagle claw clear floats last longer since they’re plastic but I find those hard to see and the top stem doesn’t have much room for your tubing. I thought about trying to make some but not sure if it’s worth the time. Some guys love the hit on a plug, etc. but personally nothing is more exciting than a bobber down!


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## ongo (Oct 1, 2017)

jwheelfan03 said:


> Or C.P.R...
> Catch
> Picture
> Release
> ...



I've seen some Eagle Claw floats that were Bright Orange, they work nice! All in on the "CPR" thing too.


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## hypox (Jan 23, 2000)

Can we all agree to going back to calling them bobbers?


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## jwheelfan03 (Jun 9, 2011)

Bobber down!


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## 6thMichCav (Nov 8, 2007)

Yup, for precision, consistency counts, but a bobber is a bobber. I once lost my last bobber and cut a dead stick to 4”, put a rubber band from a spinnerbait around it to hold the line, and continued fishing. After trimming it a few times for the right buoyancy/action, it worked fine and caught fish.


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## SkunkCity (May 15, 2019)

jwheelfan03 said:


> Or C.P.R...
> Catch
> Picture
> Release
> ...


I've purchased a few custom floats that seem to hold up a lot better than the Raven floats. Of course they are more expensive, but they hold up much better. Agree on the bobber downs; there is nothing better!


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## Rasputin (Jan 13, 2009)

I ditched the bobber, for the most part, a couple years ago. Harder to detect bites, but I seem to get more bites. PFM.


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## Erik (Jan 17, 2000)

Float, Bobber, Indicator, its all good


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## nighttime (Nov 25, 2007)

Rasputin said:


> I ditched the bobber, for the most part, a couple years ago. Harder to detect bites, but I seem to get more bites. PFM.


If rigged right I can watch chubs peck at my bait. And when fish bites it goes down. Easy to detect when weight to bobber is close.

Good floats range from 5-15$. Crazy imaging and graphics are fetching some coin. Floats for 10-15$ is more than I’d pay but people want what they want. 5-9$ for a lure is what I pay so hand made floats really not to far off. Rig it right and sometimes I’ll have same float for month or two. Only lost 2 salmon fishing this year.
Years ago I got tried of poor cracking floats so bought cheap used lathe and make my own. Really don’t need all the crazy stuff just right weight and depth and your in the zone.
8,10,12 gram will do most situations on Michigan rivers.


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## Rasputin (Jan 13, 2009)

Fished under bobbers (sorry, "indicators") for years. Really enjoy tossing just the flies and a shot anymore. To each his own. 

I do tend to get snagged up more often, last year I thought I was on a log, after numerous jerks trying to free it, it started to move. Ended up being a lethargic 8lb walleye. Lucky I didn't break it off. That was fun.


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## nighttime (Nov 25, 2007)

I do love the bottom bite which really don’t do anymore. It was my only technique for 6-8 years and glad I paid that price. Most times now if I fish bottom is when I’m forced too, like high water. I do enjoy it and it’s very productive in all types of water, just not easy learned for sure. Flys, spawn, corkie, wobble glo, beads, yarn all good choices. So many many ways to catch em, now hardware that’s whole other addiction......


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## ongo (Oct 1, 2017)

Yes it is!


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