# Sticky  Plugging 101



## RED LEG

I have been plugging on the MO for a couple years now with only a little bit success but I do alot better plugging than any other way of fishing. Just looking how you guys that have a lot more success and experience do it. Like how many rods you use? Whats your favorite line and weight to use? Favorite plugs for different situations/rivers or time of year? Best time of year to plug, fall, winter or spring? Do you use the "wall of death method" running all your plugs at the same distance behind the boat or do you run them at different lenghts? Smaller plugs or bigger plugs? How fast do you back troll? When do you get the most strikes (while moving or setting still? Any info would be great Im just trying to be a better plugger on the MO.


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## RED LEG

The best thing that I have learned so far is to cut a thicker rubberband in half and tie it in a knot about 18 inches above the plug. This will catch alot of the leaves and junk that normaly gets on your plug allowing your plug more time in the water.


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## METTLEFISH

Hmmm there is so much to learn, I'd say start reading S.T.S. and also purchase some of the plugging books published by Amato, I believe their link to the book store is www.amatobooks.com 

The river/weather is almost always different than the last days fishing, so there is always a different approach...maybe! One thing I do is use two sets of rods, one for slow water and one for fast water, the plugs I use for each are also different. I custom paint most of my plugs though there are a few generic colors that are steadfast. I feel most important is being on the water and being willing to absorb whats going on, such as if you get a take - what were the surrounding circumstances, and trying to imulate those circumstances again, rarely do you catch a Steelhead by accident. What took the first fish will usually take a second, third and so on.


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## RED LEG

Thanks for the link Sir, just ordered *Here's How To:
Plug Fishing for Salmon*, I'm sure ther is some info that could be used for steelhead also.


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## steelton

I'm no plugging expert by no means, but I've heard something that can make or break your presentation is almost always never thought about. You can't begin to catch fish if you don't have the right action rod and length. Best plug rods always have fast to extra fast actions and are best in one piece rods from 7' to 8' generally no more than 17lb test anything more and your over powering the lure. Don't bring a shovel to flip a burger. Those lures are designed to work a certain way and those rod manufactures make the perfect rod for each setup. Plugging is more an art form than people give credit.


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## bombcast

3 plugs is plenty. A good starting point - one hi-viz plug as the longest setback, this should be a K13 kwikfish, down the center. One plug on either side- 1/4 oz tot or standard size wiggle wart, or Lindy river rocker.

These should be deployed with a shorter setback - 10' shorter than the center rod/kwikfish, with rods out on either side of the boat.


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## rieverr

RED LEG said:


> The best thing that I have learned so far is to cut a thicker rubberband in half and tie it in a knot about 18 inches above the plug. This will catch alot of the leaves and junk that normaly gets on your plug allowing your plug more time in the water.


better yet.. 3 way swivel (large) with open snap off of it with a 3to6 foot lead and just a snap for the plug. i also set fast n slow water plugs for inside or out side of bends. i run a horse shoe for my rod set up, with 8ft rigger rods for my 4 and 10ftrs for my outside rods.. 10fter are the bomd fo outside rods with my outside rod being my longs lines so the guys can bounce skein out the back.


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## riverman

Every river has it's flavor for certain plugs, flow, water color, ect. I also like to run a flashy plug down the center and golds on the outside. Once you find out what the fish want adjust from there. I've had days when that flashy plug never took a hit and the golds were going down, but when I would remove the flashy plug, everything died. Kinda goes along the theory of Keating about patterns when Great Lakes fishing. Also have had days when couldn't buy a hit until that flash was gone. Just takes time on the water. Learning where fish hold, rock, log, seam, bush, is far more important than what is on the end of your leash. Takes time, memory, and a few lost plugs, but when you can call out what rod will be going down you are making the grade. Plugging has become almost the only way I fish anymore for salmon and steelhead and started last summer on a brown program with some success. It will put larger fish in your boat, is cleaner than spawn, and as challenging as other artificial programs. A driftboat, sled, set up right for the task can make a huge difference too. Maybe sometime this winter I'll give you a shout to join me for a day on the PM as payback for a couple of folks that showed me the ropes about a great way to catch steelhead.


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## riverdawg54

I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit

The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.

I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


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## METTLEFISH

Done properly... this can be the result..doublin on the Joe!...


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## riverdawg54

Nice fish.One dark one and a nice fresh silver fish.

I should of went fishing today myself but I had some things to do so maybe tomorrow,I hope.

Got to love pluggin,pluggin catchs me more fish that any other method
Its fun to have a double when your alone in the boat.Had that happen only once but I got both fish landed and I will not forget it


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## RED LEG

Thanks for the one man strategey for plugging, thats a ggod way to do it if you can only run three lines.


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## RED LEG

rieverr said:


> better yet.. 3 way swivel (large) with open snap off of it with a 3to6 foot lead and just a snap for the plug. i also set fast n slow water plugs for inside or out side of bends. i run a horse shoe for my rod set up, with 8ft rigger rods for my 4 and 10ftrs for my outside rods.. 10fter are the bomd fo outside rods with my outside rod being my longs lines so the guys can bounce skein out the back.


 I also do the same thing, I set my longer rods on the outside and shorter rods on the inside.


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## RED LEG

riverman said:


> Every river has it's flavor for certain plugs, flow, water color, ect. I also like to run a flashy plug down the center and golds on the outside. Once you find out what the fish want adjust from there. I've had days when that flashy plug never took a hit and the golds were going down, but when I would remove the flashy plug, everything died. Kinda goes along the theory of Keating about patterns when Great Lakes fishing. Also have had days when couldn't buy a hit until that flash was gone. Just takes time on the water. Learning where fish hold, rock, log, seam, bush, is far more important than what is on the end of your leash. Takes time, memory, and a few lost plugs, but when you can call out what rod will be going down you are making the grade. Plugging has become almost the only way I fish anymore for salmon and steelhead and started last summer on a brown program with some success. It will put larger fish in your boat, is cleaner than spawn, and as challenging as other artificial programs. A driftboat, sled, set up right for the task can make a huge difference too. Maybe sometime this winter I'll give you a shout to join me for a day on the PM as payback for a couple of folks that showed me the ropes about a great way to catch steelhead.


Thanks for the great advice on the theory of Keating, I have fished the MO and BIG MAN alot but never the PM, I have always wanted to fish the PM but have always have intimidated by where to fish and the different water levels. Let me know and Ill be there, thanks for the offer, im good for anytime in February.


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## StiffNeckRob

riverdawg54 said:


> I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit
> 
> The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.
> 
> I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


 
x2

Most of my hits have come when working the rods, working the transom mount trolling motor, letting anchor out or letting it in. Basically if I haven't had a hit in 20 mins or so I'm usually working something since 90% of the hits seem to come within the minute or two of last moving the rods.


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## RED LEG

riverdawg54 said:


> I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit
> 
> The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.
> 
> I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


Thanks a lot for your post, it sound like me and you plug the same way, i like to get may anchor holding me just enough to where I can use my oars to move me boat just a little with minimal effort. when it comes to the WALL OF DEATH is is the only method I know. I always thought you build the wall and it would back them out of the hole and they bite out of anger but because of this thread I'm learning they bite for other reasons also.


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## METTLEFISH

What makes one think the fish would not simply move 4" in any direction to avoid a plug? I have witnessed them doing it many times. I believe that what happens is resting fish are typically in the bottom of a hole or run. Active fish are typically in the top of a hole or run - ready to move on. This happened to me on the Big Manistee a week ago when we took 4 fish in 15 minutes - at the very top of a run, all Chromers. 

Over the years most all of my fish take on a straight drop... no sweeping, and it's not for not trying the method believe me I have. Normally the only time my anchor drops is if there's a double and I have to grab the rod...especially if I know I am on a pod of fish or around gravel and spawing fish..


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## RED LEG

your anchor never drops? what speed are you going with your plugs out? how much water to you cover in a regular trip? are you constantly on your oars to slow your boat down?


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## METTLEFISH

RED LEG said:


> your anchor never drops? what speed are you going with your plugs out? how much water to you cover in a regular trip? are you constantly on your oars to slow your boat down?


Like I said only if absolutely necessary.... I try to have enough speed to keep plugs working properly, sometimes I'll hold in a spot if I feel it holds a fish, behind a rock, small eddie by a log, not for long though. I cover all likely spots in a drift. A drift can be 8 miles or so depending on the river. I have found tiny little spots that are almost never fished if at all.... with a drift boat or small flat bottom you can get in tight areas and not spook fish much, then again I feel a motor passing can stir things up a little, I've taken many fish immediately after and even during a boat passing running a moter. My glass boat is so efficient if I am not careful I end up going up-stream without meaning too.....


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## RED LEG

do you mainly use your oars then to control your speed METTLEFISH?


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## RED LEG

I have been plugging on the MO for a couple years now with only a little bit success but I do alot better plugging than any other way of fishing. Just looking how you guys that have a lot more success and experience do it. Like how many rods you use? Whats your favorite line and weight to use? Favorite plugs for different situations/rivers or time of year? Best time of year to plug, fall, winter or spring? Do you use the "wall of death method" running all your plugs at the same distance behind the boat or do you run them at different lenghts? Smaller plugs or bigger plugs? How fast do you back troll? When do you get the most strikes (while moving or setting still? Any info would be great Im just trying to be a better plugger on the MO.


----------



## RED LEG

The best thing that I have learned so far is to cut a thicker rubberband in half and tie it in a knot about 18 inches above the plug. This will catch alot of the leaves and junk that normaly gets on your plug allowing your plug more time in the water.


----------



## METTLEFISH

Hmmm there is so much to learn, I'd say start reading S.T.S. and also purchase some of the plugging books published by Amato, I believe their link to the book store is www.amatobooks.com 

The river/weather is almost always different than the last days fishing, so there is always a different approach...maybe! One thing I do is use two sets of rods, one for slow water and one for fast water, the plugs I use for each are also different. I custom paint most of my plugs though there are a few generic colors that are steadfast. I feel most important is being on the water and being willing to absorb whats going on, such as if you get a take - what were the surrounding circumstances, and trying to imulate those circumstances again, rarely do you catch a Steelhead by accident. What took the first fish will usually take a second, third and so on.


----------



## RED LEG

Thanks for the link Sir, just ordered *Here's How To:
Plug Fishing for Salmon*, I'm sure ther is some info that could be used for steelhead also.


----------



## steelton

I'm no plugging expert by no means, but I've heard something that can make or break your presentation is almost always never thought about. You can't begin to catch fish if you don't have the right action rod and length. Best plug rods always have fast to extra fast actions and are best in one piece rods from 7' to 8' generally no more than 17lb test anything more and your over powering the lure. Don't bring a shovel to flip a burger. Those lures are designed to work a certain way and those rod manufactures make the perfect rod for each setup. Plugging is more an art form than people give credit.


----------



## bombcast

3 plugs is plenty. A good starting point - one hi-viz plug as the longest setback, this should be a K13 kwikfish, down the center. One plug on either side- 1/4 oz tot or standard size wiggle wart, or Lindy river rocker.

These should be deployed with a shorter setback - 10' shorter than the center rod/kwikfish, with rods out on either side of the boat.


----------



## rieverr

RED LEG said:


> The best thing that I have learned so far is to cut a thicker rubberband in half and tie it in a knot about 18 inches above the plug. This will catch alot of the leaves and junk that normaly gets on your plug allowing your plug more time in the water.


better yet.. 3 way swivel (large) with open snap off of it with a 3to6 foot lead and just a snap for the plug. i also set fast n slow water plugs for inside or out side of bends. i run a horse shoe for my rod set up, with 8ft rigger rods for my 4 and 10ftrs for my outside rods.. 10fter are the bomd fo outside rods with my outside rod being my longs lines so the guys can bounce skein out the back.


----------



## riverman

Every river has it's flavor for certain plugs, flow, water color, ect. I also like to run a flashy plug down the center and golds on the outside. Once you find out what the fish want adjust from there. I've had days when that flashy plug never took a hit and the golds were going down, but when I would remove the flashy plug, everything died. Kinda goes along the theory of Keating about patterns when Great Lakes fishing. Also have had days when couldn't buy a hit until that flash was gone. Just takes time on the water. Learning where fish hold, rock, log, seam, bush, is far more important than what is on the end of your leash. Takes time, memory, and a few lost plugs, but when you can call out what rod will be going down you are making the grade. Plugging has become almost the only way I fish anymore for salmon and steelhead and started last summer on a brown program with some success. It will put larger fish in your boat, is cleaner than spawn, and as challenging as other artificial programs. A driftboat, sled, set up right for the task can make a huge difference too. Maybe sometime this winter I'll give you a shout to join me for a day on the PM as payback for a couple of folks that showed me the ropes about a great way to catch steelhead.


----------



## riverdawg54

I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit

The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.

I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


----------



## METTLEFISH

Done properly... this can be the result..doublin on the Joe!...


----------



## riverdawg54

Nice fish.One dark one and a nice fresh silver fish.

I should of went fishing today myself but I had some things to do so maybe tomorrow,I hope.

Got to love pluggin,pluggin catchs me more fish that any other method
Its fun to have a double when your alone in the boat.Had that happen only once but I got both fish landed and I will not forget it


----------



## RED LEG

Thanks for the one man strategey for plugging, thats a ggod way to do it if you can only run three lines.


----------



## RED LEG

rieverr said:


> better yet.. 3 way swivel (large) with open snap off of it with a 3to6 foot lead and just a snap for the plug. i also set fast n slow water plugs for inside or out side of bends. i run a horse shoe for my rod set up, with 8ft rigger rods for my 4 and 10ftrs for my outside rods.. 10fter are the bomd fo outside rods with my outside rod being my longs lines so the guys can bounce skein out the back.


 I also do the same thing, I set my longer rods on the outside and shorter rods on the inside.


----------



## RED LEG

riverman said:


> Every river has it's flavor for certain plugs, flow, water color, ect. I also like to run a flashy plug down the center and golds on the outside. Once you find out what the fish want adjust from there. I've had days when that flashy plug never took a hit and the golds were going down, but when I would remove the flashy plug, everything died. Kinda goes along the theory of Keating about patterns when Great Lakes fishing. Also have had days when couldn't buy a hit until that flash was gone. Just takes time on the water. Learning where fish hold, rock, log, seam, bush, is far more important than what is on the end of your leash. Takes time, memory, and a few lost plugs, but when you can call out what rod will be going down you are making the grade. Plugging has become almost the only way I fish anymore for salmon and steelhead and started last summer on a brown program with some success. It will put larger fish in your boat, is cleaner than spawn, and as challenging as other artificial programs. A driftboat, sled, set up right for the task can make a huge difference too. Maybe sometime this winter I'll give you a shout to join me for a day on the PM as payback for a couple of folks that showed me the ropes about a great way to catch steelhead.


Thanks for the great advice on the theory of Keating, I have fished the MO and BIG MAN alot but never the PM, I have always wanted to fish the PM but have always have intimidated by where to fish and the different water levels. Let me know and Ill be there, thanks for the offer, im good for anytime in February.


----------



## StiffNeckRob

riverdawg54 said:


> I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit
> 
> The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.
> 
> I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


 
x2

Most of my hits have come when working the rods, working the transom mount trolling motor, letting anchor out or letting it in. Basically if I haven't had a hit in 20 mins or so I'm usually working something since 90% of the hits seem to come within the minute or two of last moving the rods.


----------



## RED LEG

riverdawg54 said:


> I do alot of plugging and I agree pluggin is an art and you will learn something new every time your out fishing. I use four 8'6" med light downrigger rods with level wind reels and I set "THE WALL OF DEATH".I got away from mono line for pluggin and now use 20 or 30 pound Power Pro braid.In shallow water I run my plugs back 20 to 25 feet and in deeper water I will have them back 30 to 35 feet.I use a set of oars and a transome mounted trolling motor to slid down stream dragging a chain anchor from the bow.You will want to have alot of start and stopping with your plugs.Dig your oars in to make the boat move down stream,take them out so the boat stops,you can then use them to row a few feet back upstream to make the plugs dig in some.I also will swing the back of the boat from side to side afew feet to add something differant.I dont like my plugs running at the same speed for long.Most strikes will come when the plugs do something differant,dig in,wiggle faster or slower.The change in action is what triggers most strikes.When they are on the feed it does not seem to matter much,just get the plugs in front of them and they will hit
> 
> The water in the Grand River is super clear this year and the fish can really zero in on the plugs.Once you put them in the right place they will crush them.
> 
> I fish small and large Tots,Wiggle Warts,River Rockers,Deep Thunder Stick Jr,old Hedden Tad pollys and some small bass crank baits.


Thanks a lot for your post, it sound like me and you plug the same way, i like to get may anchor holding me just enough to where I can use my oars to move me boat just a little with minimal effort. when it comes to the WALL OF DEATH is is the only method I know. I always thought you build the wall and it would back them out of the hole and they bite out of anger but because of this thread I'm learning they bite for other reasons also.


----------



## METTLEFISH

What makes one think the fish would not simply move 4" in any direction to avoid a plug? I have witnessed them doing it many times. I believe that what happens is resting fish are typically in the bottom of a hole or run. Active fish are typically in the top of a hole or run - ready to move on. This happened to me on the Big Manistee a week ago when we took 4 fish in 15 minutes - at the very top of a run, all Chromers. 

Over the years most all of my fish take on a straight drop... no sweeping, and it's not for not trying the method believe me I have. Normally the only time my anchor drops is if there's a double and I have to grab the rod...especially if I know I am on a pod of fish or around gravel and spawing fish..


----------



## RED LEG

your anchor never drops? what speed are you going with your plugs out? how much water to you cover in a regular trip? are you constantly on your oars to slow your boat down?


----------



## METTLEFISH

RED LEG said:


> your anchor never drops? what speed are you going with your plugs out? how much water to you cover in a regular trip? are you constantly on your oars to slow your boat down?


Like I said only if absolutely necessary.... I try to have enough speed to keep plugs working properly, sometimes I'll hold in a spot if I feel it holds a fish, behind a rock, small eddie by a log, not for long though. I cover all likely spots in a drift. A drift can be 8 miles or so depending on the river. I have found tiny little spots that are almost never fished if at all.... with a drift boat or small flat bottom you can get in tight areas and not spook fish much, then again I feel a motor passing can stir things up a little, I've taken many fish immediately after and even during a boat passing running a moter. My glass boat is so efficient if I am not careful I end up going up-stream without meaning too.....


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## RED LEG

do you mainly use your oars then to control your speed METTLEFISH?


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