# 35 horse evinrude outboard



## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

I have a mid eighties evinrude that has a little hiccup. There is a black knob comming out in front of the carb from the top. What type of adjustment does this do? Which direction (clockwise or counter clockwise) if I turn it will happen? Thanks
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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

Sounds like your low speed needle, can you post a Picture so we can be sure? clockwise =lean counter-clock= rich , it should be in the neighborhood of 5/8 to 1 ¼ turns from being bottomed out, A good way to do this is to turn it clockwise till it bottoms out but be gentile you can damage it if you crank it hard. Then turn it out 1 ½ from bottom, start you motor let it idle then turn the needle in 1/8 turn at a time and give the motor about 30 seconds between adjustments, if it stalls start again, keep doing this till you find the sweet spot. Remember is you motor sneezes it is lean and you have gone to far in.


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## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

I'll post a pic when I get home from work. My main issue is that when I'm cruising below about 10mph and then "quickly" accelerate, it cuts out sometimes. If I back it of it will run fine again. Slowly accelerate to top speed is fine. Didn't know if that adjustment would help out?
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## scubajay (Jun 9, 2003)

I have a 1987 30HP Johnson and I agree that the knob you are talking about is the low speed needle adjustment.

My motor was doing nearly the same thing. The only difference was that even if I slowly brought it up to full throttle, about 10% of the time it still lost power. Replacing the fuel pump solved my problem.


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## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

W


scubajay said:


> I have a 1987 30HP Johnson and I agree that the knob you are talking about is the low speed needle adjustment.
> 
> My motor was doing nearly the same thing. The only difference was that even if I slowly brought it up to full throttle, about 10% of the time it still lost power. Replacing the fuel pump solved my problem.


What did a fuel pump run you?
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## scubajay (Jun 9, 2003)

About $50


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## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

Here's a pic of the knob I'm refering to.


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel and yes turning that mix screw CCW might help but you also might need the carb cleaned out. High speed jet might be partially plugged. 

You may want to check to see if your fuel lines are deteriorating. If they are you might have some junk in the carb. Happened to me a couple of years ago. Ethenol breaks down the old rubber fuel lines. Need to upgrade to achohol resistent lines.


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## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

Thats a BIG 10-4. I'm going to replace all fuel lines and see if that works with a minor adjustment. I've only had it for about 8 months now and only one time out with it last year. I'm still a little confused as to exactly what that knob will affect when adjusted.


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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

Yea I doubt the low sped needle is your problem.
If you suspect the fuel pump try pressurizing the system with the prime ball when you goose it, also there is a screen on the fuel bump that you can clean it is held on with a knurled screw in the center and has fuel line running from it.
You could also have some debris in your float bowl that are sloshing around and blocking your high speed jet. Your high speed jet is in the bottom of the float bowl. Its back behind the plug or fitting for you primmer depending on the year of the motor. it's at the front bottom opposite the needle you were asking about (back it there a bit) 
Other things, I have seen the wiring going to a tiller mounted kill switch short get old and funky, sometimes shorting the ignition when a quick twist of the handle was applied. This is very unlikely but you can rule it out by simply unhooking the connectors (black wires running under your carb)
Also follow those wires up and under the flywheel and check that the insulation is not warn. They move as your timing plate advances and if they should ground out its just like pushing your kill button.
One other thing I have seen cause this kind of a symptom is a bad power-head gasket causing a motor to choke on its own exhaust. You can rule that out by simply running it without the cover.


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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

> I'm still a little confused as to exactly what that knob will affect when adjusted.


That knob adjusts low speed only, its a long needle the goes into a seat and when properly adjusted it lets your motor idle(run) with the main butterfly closed.
The instant you crack the throttle your carb transitions and draws fuel from your high speed jet.


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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

Ok just looked at you picture and I can see a rectifier in the left side of the picture, if this is a remote engine you still have the kill wires and you will find them in pretty much the same spot.


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

Tonga, 
Won't there be a little pull from the idle port upon accelleration?

Now I know there are many other factors involved but if say everything else was in order, if the idle mix was leaned out, could there be a little lag upon acceleration?
I'm only saying this because it's a big factor in small air cooled engines and often a unit that lags or stalls like that just needs the low and high speed screws tweaked open. 
I was hoping for his sake it would be as simple as an adjustment though if it's as he said, not used much, it could have more wrong with it.
Yeah and judging by the looks of the wires it's gonna need some TLC. Had to do some patch work on the wires of my old '79 Merc 80hp last year.


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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

Yea there is some but if she was running lean she would sneeze a lot and not want to idle. But you never know.


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

TONGA said:


> Yea there is some but if she was running lean she would sneeze a lot and not want to idle. But you never know.


Ok, just trying some crossover tech info on it. 
Had many chainsaw, trimmer and things that would idle just fine, rev up slowly but if you hit them hard they would bog or stall out. A little tweaking open the low screw usually takes care of it. Outboards ARE different but I thought an easy thing to try would be better than spending a lot of time and money only to find out later it was the easy thing after all. At least that was the way I was taught. Try the easy thing first.
Anyway, wish you were closer. I got one of those sneezing buggers. :lol:

'94 Johnson. Sometimes sneezes and sometimes stalls at idle. I rebuilt the fuel pump cause it had a wrinkle in the diaphragm and a cut near the screw hole. While running it after I noticed oil running down from under the flywheel. I'd wipe it off and more would trickle down. I figure it needs a crank seal. 
Well I hadn't really been using it the last few years since I got a bigger boat and didn't even fire it up last year so needless to say I didn't do anything about it.


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## TONGA (Jul 22, 2002)

FERG 06 wrote 


> Outboards ARE different but I thought an easy thing to try would be better than spending a lot of time and money only to find out later it was the easy thing after all. At least that was the way I was taught. Try the easy thing first.


Absolutely!, this kind of thinking can save you time and money! Its easy to over think!


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## xfactor (Jan 31, 2010)

I'm going to start with cleaning the Carb and replace fuel lines. I'll tune it this weekend on the river. Thanks for all the info
I'll post my results.
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