# hornady sst slug ballistics questions



## bear5

I was just sighting-in my slug gun and something really weird happened. I was at 50 yr adn used Hastings Laser sabots to get on the paper. Once I got these to group, I switched to Lightfields and got a great group. They I switched to the Hornady's and I couldn't even get them to show-up on the paper! I went through 3 boxes (yikes) What is up with that???? Do these things have some crazy lift. Went back to the Lightfields and all was good. Still can't figure-out happened????
Bear


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## thill

I had a similar issue with the hornady sst. Zero at 50 and actually high at 100? All other rounds would drop between 50 and 100, but these actually seemed to rise and drift. I'm still shopping around for the right shell.


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## Hammertime989

Each brand of bullet may shoot totally different out of the same gun. Go to 25 yds. with the sst's and sight-in, then to 50 yds.


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## Masterblaster1

The sst's shoot a 300 grain slug at 2000 fps, the lightfield I believe are a 1.25 ounce slug or 547 grains and is going around 1500 fps if I remember correctly. Your hornady load were most likely missing low. A faster, lighter bullet will always hit the target lower than a heavier one. Also I gave up on the sst's because they always shot flyers in my gun and I have had 2 sst bullets fail on deer in other calibers. Switched to barnes expanders= problem solved.


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## goodworkstractors

thill said:


> I had a similar issue with the hornady sst. Zero at 50 and actually high at 100? All other rounds would drop between 50 and 100, but these actually seemed to rise and drift. I'm still shopping around for the right shell.


I have the same thing happening with my Winchester Partition Golds. Dead on at 50 yds. and about 5 inches high at 100 yds. That is where it peaks though, then starts to slowly come back down. Haven't shot past 125 yds. with them. They shoot accurate for me and I know right where they hit so I'm sticking with them for now. I actually haven't even carried my shotgun while deer hunting for a couple years now, just my T/C.


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## Jacob Huffman

Believe it or not every gun will shoot evey slug different...My Ultra Slug wont even hit paper with the Lightfields at 25 yards...But with the SST's or Partition Gold's I can get a 3 shot group of 1.5" at 100 yard s...


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## bear5

Thanks for al the replies - sighting in this gun is going to be a bit tougher than I though (first time using a shotgun). I'm going to the store today to try some more options: Brenneke's and Winchestests. Good point about restarting every time at the 25yd distance. That would have saved me a lot of frustration. 

Another question. I'm pretty much at the limit of my scope adjustment toward the down side. What do you do if you need to go down further? I assume there is a way to "shim" the scope to adjust the angle. Has anybody done this and what do you use?

Thanks,
Barry


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## deepbluesniper

How high are your rings? Go to lowest rise possible to keep closer to bore.
You could try to shim scope under rear mount and over front, but won't give you much. You didn't mention receiver rail or rib mount rail. If receiver, you can shim under rear screws of rail, or carefully grind 1/16" material from front:yikes:.
ALWAYS USE NON-PERMANENT LOCKTITE ON ALL SCREWS.
Hope this helps


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## bear5

It's a mossberg 500 with the cantilevar rib (I think that's what it's called). I'm have a buckmaster scope with weaver style rings. As mentioned before, I pretty much turned the elevation adjustment down as far as it will go (maybe another 5-7 ckicks left) with Lightfield Hybirds. So, you're indicating I can put a shim (aluminum can piece) between the rib and the ring mount on the rear mount (I assume) to help with tipping the scope down, correct? Or, would it be the same (better/worse) to put electrical tape on the bottom of the rear ring between the ring and the scope? 

Thx,
Bear


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## chevyjam2001

I just went through the same thing trying to sight in my sons 20 ga Mossberg 500 with the cantilever barrel. At 50 yards he had a great group with the lightfields. At 100 yards he wouldn't even hit the paper. I bought a box of Hornady SST's, Remington Accutip, Federal Barnes Expanders and Winchester Partition Gold's. I then made a 6'X8' target, set it out at 100 yards and fired a 3 round group of each brand of slug to see which one grouped best. The Partition Gold's were the best for me with about a 2" group. The first 2 shots I could cover with my thumb but the third shot was 2" to the right. I also attribute some of the drift to a very stiff trigger. I will have to take this gun in to get that trigger pull eased up a bit for next year. I also have an H&R 20 ga slugger that just loves to shoot the lightfields and at 100 yards I can get 3 shots touching each other. I guess I had been fortunate up until now with my guns and their load preference. If you were getting good groups with the lightfields I would stick with them. The "enhanced" ballistics of the SST's aren't going to amount to squat if you can't consistently hit where you are aiming. Any inconsistencies are only going to be enhanced at longer ranges. Just my .02.


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## Hammertime989

Your turret adj. may not have been in the middle of the adjustment travel when you started sight-in. Try this - put the objective against a mirror. You will see 2 crosshairs-use turret adjustment to align the two. This will center turret adjustment. Then sight in at 25yds. then 50yds. then 100yds.


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## tigerGSP

I tried the sst at 50 yds,, nope I went with the Horn-De problem solved.
I am using a rem.870 with a factory barrel. I am going to get a Hasting 26" barrel for next season so I can use the sst out to 150+ yrds


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## slammer

I shoot a SBE and had the same problem when thinking about switching from Lightfield to SST's when they first came out. After getting them on the paper they were not real consisitent. I ended up switching back to the Lightfields. I am not saying to use Lightfields but you should not have to try 4 or 5 differnt brands to find one that will shoot well especially since it sounds like you are already getting nice groups.


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## deepbluesniper

Use a piece of shim paper (looks like ultra fine sandpaper) under scope at back ring ond over scope at front ring- not any tin.
Since you are at end of adjustment and are off anyway, re-center crosshair by counting all clicks left/right, up/down and going back half in each direction. This should re-center your alignment tubes.
Also, is there a chance that your cantilever is bent down??? Later models had a threaded screw hole in back to notallowmovement upand down in relation to the receiver. You could also do this totip cantilever up in back slightly.
Try these in order IMHO.


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## bear5

thx, off to get shim paper today!


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