# My scope is loose !



## HemlockNailer (Dec 22, 2000)

While hunting this weekend I found that my Nikon scope was loose on my Omega. Not fall off loose but it did rock slightly if pressure was applied to it . I sighted it in before season and it shot good. Always kept in safe or hard gun case. I had the scope installed at a local gun shop last year. The set screws (4) were all slightly loose on the scope mount to the base. They don't appear to have Titeloc or anything on the threads. Is this common? Should I remove the scope and check the base also ?


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## Sib (Jan 8, 2003)

I'd check everything, since you'll have to sight in again. I don't use titeLoc, just in case I want to change things up, I just tighten everything down nice and check it regularly. I know TiteLoc has a number of formulas, perhaps one of them would be appropriate, but it hasn't ever been a problem for me, so I haven't used it.


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## glockman55 (Mar 9, 2006)

I use Loc-Tite on my base screws, and always check the other screws for tightness before season.


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## malainse (Sep 2, 2002)

glockman55 said:


> I use Loc-Tite on my base screws, and always check the other screws for tightness before season.


 

Blue Loc-Tite, screws stay snug but can be removed if needed. I shoot a contender pistol so I change barrels/scopes all the time. Even shooting .375 JDJ never had an issue.


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## jmoser (Sep 11, 2002)

Normally scope bases and rings use small and fine #6-48 screw threads. You do not need a lot of torque to tighten these, most manufacturers spec around 17-20 INCH-Pounds [not ft-lbs!]. You can get this torque with 2 fingers and a thumb using a screwdriver-style driver. Some ring-to-base screws are larger and can take more tightening torque. For these threads the purple 'low strength' LocTite is plenty, regular strength Blue is fine too. [You can easily remove screws that have been assembled with either color LocTite formula.] I am anal and always degrease the screw threads and blind holes with acetone or similar solvent but Loctite does not require this.

Sometimes the Weaver style bases are not a close fit with the receiver, I have used specialty gap filling adhesives to 'bed' the base in these cases, many guys use JB weld or similar metal filled epoxy formulas. If you are careful and use masking tape in the right places you won't have a lot of excess squish out - you just need a few dots in the right places. In some cases I use red Loctite [permanent] for the base screws since you cannot get to these without removing the scope. I had my Encore barrels machined for extra 2 screws [6 total] on the .300 mag and 209x50, all with red Loctite. [And even the red formula comes loose with heat from a soldering iron.]

Not all threads are cut the same, loose tolerances make it easy or them to back out over time and recoil. Loctite fills up the slop in the thread engagement and keeps things together. If you paid $$ for this mount and the shop did not use threadlocker I think IMHO that is very unprofessional work, a $3 bottle of Loctite is enough for 20-30 guns minimum and it takes seconds to apply. 

And yes - you should strip this down to bare gun and redo all the screws from top to bottom. FYI weaver style rings with cross slot recoil keys need to be pushed forward against the base slot before tightening. If your rings have round cross bolts get rid of them and buy Weaver or Warne rings with square keys for the harsh recoil, round can slip and peen the base slots.

I like Warne rings but truth be told Weaver brand bases and standard rings are hard to beat for the money and hold up to the worst recoil.


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## bigrackmack (Aug 10, 2004)

malainse said:


> Blue Loc-Tite, screws stay snug but can be removed if needed. I shoot a contender pistol so I change barrels/scopes all the time. Even shooting .375 JDJ never had an issue.


All the above.....I also do my own mounting, that way I know its done right....Not alot to mounting a scope......Mack


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## skipper34 (Oct 13, 2005)

HemlockNailer said:


> While hunting this weekend I found that my Nikon scope was loose on my Omega. Not fall off loose but it did rock slightly if pressure was applied to it . I sighted it in before season and it shot good. Always kept in safe or hard gun case. I had the scope installed at a local gun shop last year. The set screws (4) were all slightly loose on the scope mount to the base. They don't appear to have Titeloc or anything on the threads. Is this common? Should I remove the scope and check the base also ?


What kind of a scope mount uses "set screws"?


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## MSUICEMAN (Jan 9, 2002)

i'm thinking hes talking about socket head cap screws, but thats just my guess.


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## SwitchBack.2 (Nov 13, 2008)

MSUICEMAN said:


> i'm thinking hes talking about socket head cap screws, but thats just my guess.


 
I think this SwingKat is correct...socket head cap screws are GTG!


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## HemlockNailer (Dec 22, 2000)

Thanks for the replies. I don't see a name on the rings or base. The base is one piece dovetail shaped, the rings are attached to the base with allen wrench type set screws. One on each side ,front and rear. When you tighten the screw it gripes the bevel side of the base, these are the ones that are loose. I have shot the gun less than a dozen times. Luckily never at a deer, but at the range it was dead on with four shots at 100 yds.


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## pumpfake (Dec 12, 2008)

listen to switchbackmountain he knows all about having a screw loose.


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## Fishbum2 (Jan 15, 2005)

I have an 870 remington set up as a slug gun. The recoil from it loosened the scope. I had it remounted and bore sighted. Since then, I check it
at the range when I do my sight in to be sure it has not loosened. So far it has maintained the position.

I would recommend you have the scope removed and remounted by a reputable gun smith. Check with your local shooting range. They know who the good gun smiths are.


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## QuakrTrakr (Apr 4, 2001)

That's why I mount my own scopes. I went out and bought a $40 laser boresighter and use blue Tite-lok and never had an issue other than one time I got too much Tite-Lok on the screww and it got between the base and the receiver. Took me a while to find the reason of my shifting POI.


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## 2.5.yr.buck (Dec 5, 2008)

pumpfake said:


> listen to switchbackmountain he knows all about having a screw loose.


If anyone wants to know how to cancel deer at night with a spotlight PM pumpfake or his cousin ifitsbrownitsdown...


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## eddiejohn4 (Dec 23, 2005)

I always mount my own, and always with blue loc-tite. have never had a problem, and some scopes have been on for more then 20 years.


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## TrekJeff (Sep 7, 2007)

malainse said:


> Blue Loc-Tite, screws stay snug but can be removed if needed. I shoot a contender pistol so I change barrels/scopes all the time. Even shooting .375 JDJ never had an issue.


It's easy to remember the blue. Red's Dead, screw is pretty much permanent and "M" go Blue...easily taken apart...:lol::lol:


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## adam bomb (Feb 27, 2006)

Sounds like you were had at the "pro shop".:sad: No need to have someone mount your scope for you. Its easy enough to do. And when you do it, you know its done right. I agree with everyone else. Strip it all down and start from scratch. Loc-tite everything and you WILL be good to go. Done that on all my rifles/ml and have never had an issue with loose mounts or rings.

Best of luck, good luck huntin'.


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## QuakrTrakr (Apr 4, 2001)

TrekJeff said:


> It's easy to remember the blue. Red's Dead, screw is pretty much permanent and "M" go Blue...easily taken apart...:lol::lol:


Purple is actually easier yet to remove, but I can never find it anywhere.


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## BaptizedACC (Nov 22, 2009)

eddiejohn4 said:


> I always mount my own, and always with blue loc-tite. have never had a problem, and some scopes have been on for more then 20 years.


Bump it up


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## passport (Jul 26, 2009)

Yank everything off and give every hole a shot of brake cleaner, rings AND bases. Then blue locktight everything back together.


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## mi duckdown (Jul 1, 2006)

also a drop of blue loctite on the bottom of the scope mount.


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## QuakrTrakr (Apr 4, 2001)

mi duckdown said:


> also a drop of blue loctite on the bottom of the scope mount.


I'm confused. Between the base and the receiver? Or between the scope and the ring? Either way it's a bad idea. The Locktite doesn't allow the metal to be locked into position. It acts like a rubber pad that shifts. I know, I did it by mistake and spent about 100 rounds on my .204 before I figured out what was happening.


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