# Caulk on vinal siding, every seam!



## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

OK heres the deal, I just purchased a rental home and the previous owner took it upon himself to caulk every seam and overlap on his vinyl siding. Meaning that every 10-12 feet, he actually caulked the 2 pieces on the same runs as well as other locations that dont need it. Now it (caulk) is a different color and it looks like crap. Any good ideas on removing this crap on the siding runs and other various places it shouldnt be caulked. I know siding shrinks and expands with temps, but it isnt buckling or anything, just looks poor. I will need to use quite a bit of solvent to clean this mess but I am looking for ideas.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Any idea how long ago it was done?

Do you know if it's a latex caulk?

They do make a latex caulk remover but no matter what you use it sounds like you've got a big job ahead of yourself. Here's what I'm talking about and it should be available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000926.php

Good luck!

John


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## huntingmaniac45 (Nov 22, 2005)

I agree with John. If its latex you can get a solvent to remove it, but boy that will be alot of work. Whoever put it on had a big job too.:lol: Sure hope he didnt use silicone!:yikes:


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## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Yikes! Some of the solvents might damage the vinyl too. Not likely but possible.


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## BigSky (Apr 10, 2008)

The issue I see is more than the discoloration. Vinyl siding need's to move with temp. change's. I'm guessing that when the temp. change's you get ripple's in it. That is why the nailing hole's in the top of each piece are longated.


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

Yep I agree with all the responses here, visually it just looks bad, and functionally there isnt any flexing yet but I will address this in the spring.
Thanks for all the input


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## cointoss (Apr 9, 2001)

Hate to say it, but for the work involved to remove the old caulk it will still probably look bad, you might be further ahead to just reside it.


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## hellbilly (Aug 17, 2008)

get a citrus tar ( i used a product form dewitt) cleaning product form a local wholesaler it will do the trick. Only issue is when your done you may want to powerwash everything to make it look the same.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

Dewitts Remove-it is a great product. Depending upon the type of caulk, various products work better than others. WD40 does a great job on the newer low VOC urethanes. Mineral spirits works well on the older SBR caulks, just keep at it till you find the right product, but as previously stated, if the siding is older, it will be permanently discolored and streaked after any removal, and getting it too all clean up evenly nigh on impossible.


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## Wendy (Oct 6, 2008)

It's still probably going to look bad after you clean it up too. For the time, effort and cost for the removers... it maybe better to replace the siding... you can get cheap siding if you buy instock.. or try someplace like siding world.


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## outdoor junkie (Sep 16, 2003)

Probably a job not worth doing. My bet is evn if you get the majority of it off its gonna look like crap. If the money is right I would re-side. Some of the things people do is beyond me. Safe to say the siding can't expand and contract with the changing temps and at certain times of the year it will look hideous. Did he use a latex and maybe you can get lucky and peel most of it off or with help from a utility knife, but that sounds like alot of work. Good luck to you.


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## mike the pike (Mar 11, 2008)

What about renting a paint sprayer from home depot and painting the whole thing for like 400.00 ????...that is depending on the size of the house


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## bigrackmack (Aug 10, 2004)

mike the pike said:


> What about renting a paint sprayer from home depot and painting the whole thing for like 400.00 ????...that is depending on the size of the house


x2......I think this would be the best route......and cheapest......and would look good with a fresh coat of paint........Mack


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

mike the pike said:


> What about renting a paint sprayer from home depot and painting the whole thing for like 400.00 ????...that is depending on the size of the house





bigrackmack said:


> x2......I think this would be the best route......and cheapest......and would look good with a fresh coat of paint........Mack


BAD idea.

You're not going to be able to rent a sprayer and buy materials to paint the house for $400. Even if he could, he wouldn't save any work. He'd still have to remove all of the caulk before painting anyway. Then he'd have a heck of a lot of work prepping for paint. In the long run it would be cheaper and easier to just reside.

John


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

Thanks again for all the ideas, I think I have time to consider taking this mess on or just leaving it the way it is. It really isnt bad, and because this is a rental, I wont get too picky about how she looks. Even matched caulk will change colors over the years and that is what I can see happening now. New siding unless I do it myself, would be cost prohibitive, and painting will still require taking the old stuff (caulk) off. At that point I think I would just replace it completely. I think I will wait till spring and re-assess the situation. I have many other smaller jobs that can be worked on inside over the cold months. Refinishing oak floors is #1, should be a fun but dirty job, followed by patch and paint the entire inside, this is 100% plaster walls. Stay tuned for questions on doing the floors just after Xmas.
GBF


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

If you have any questions when getting into the floors just drop me a line. I've stripped, stained, and refinished a lot of hardwood. I'm just down the road and if you need me to take a look at it I can drop by. I may be able to save you a lot of headaches.

John


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## mike the pike (Mar 11, 2008)

jpollman said:


> BAD idea.
> 
> You're not going to be able to rent a sprayer and buy materials to paint the house for $400. Even if he could, he wouldn't save any work. He'd still have to remove all of the caulk before painting anyway. Then he'd have a heck of a lot of work prepping for paint. In the long run it would be cheaper and easier to just reside.
> 
> John


I disagree:
- prep time to scrape the siding=0
- cover and tape all windows= 30.00Maybe
-powerwash =60-120.00

-rent a sprayer 1 day 72.00 

Paint: glidden exterior 16.99 a gallon X 10 = (8 for the body and 2 for the trim) 181.ish w/ tax (assuming a 1000sq' )
It can be done, it is a rental after all. If you were to have the tools, it would be even cheaper.

If you had it professionally done w/o all the caulk leakage prep time. They pro's would charge 1000- 1400


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

mike the pike said:


> I disagree:
> - prep time to scrape the siding=0
> - cover and tape all windows= 30.00Maybe
> -powerwash =60-120.00
> ...


 
Mike,

That existing caulk still needs to be removed in order to paint, agreed?
I have all the tools to do it and time is the one thing I have, so my time to remove is just that, time.

Thanks Dan


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## S.NIEMI (Oct 26, 2007)

The caulk isn't hurting a thing. paint the dam thing and be done with it. Unless you can sleep at night knowing you won't get your money back from residing it.

You said it is to be a rental.......Paint the floor too, hell.....throw down some cheap carpet. Renties do not care. Good luck!


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

S.NIEMI said:


> The caulk isn't hurting a thing. paint the dam thing and be done with it. Unless you can sleep at night knowing you won't get your money back from residing it.


That's where you're wrong. That caulk can and proably will cause problems. The seams are required to be able to slide to allow for expansion and contraction. If that caulk is on there too tight, it's going to buckle when it heats up and expands. That is why the nail holes in the flanges are elongated and you never nail siding tight.

John


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