# First time Bow Tuning



## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

2015 Hoyt Charger
55lbs, 26.0 Draw.

This will be the first time I've replaced strings, tuned, or added components since the stock purchase.

I've ordered new strings, an QAD MTX drop-away, and plan to keep my IQ Micro 5pin Retina Lock.

I'm looking for advice, suggestions, or lessons learned when removing and replacing strings and cables?

I'm also seeking information on anyone who has had success or knows of improvements to the cable slide that comes stock on the Hoyt Charger - is there room for improvement here?

I've recently begun a DIY drawboard build to check cams for cam lean and sync - as I have a high nock tear that just won't go away regardless of arrow.

Thanks in advance...


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## kevin2 (Nov 19, 2010)

Make sure you have a bow press that will press your particular bow properly. That’s the best advice I can give you. I learned the hard way years ago! Do your research. Have fun!


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

kevin2 said:


> Make sure you have a bow press that will press your particular bow properly. That’s the best advice I can give you. I learned the hard way years ago! Do your research. Have fun!


Using a last chance press with new ultra lock adapters.


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

Here’s what I do with my Hoyts....

Start with a copy of your bow’s tune chart to return it to factory spec...

https://s3.hoyt.com/uploads/2019/9c022870aaaf9242f3bd3badd707566c629677f1.pdf

I like to take a few measurements from the bow with the old string/cables on it. I measure the current poundage, axle to axle length, brace height, tiller, nocking point height and height of the peep from the nocking point. Speeds up the process of setting it back up to you.

Install cables and string. With an even tiller, time and sync the cams. Install the rest and position the launcher vertically so the center of the arrow runs a touch Above the center of the rest mounting hole. Then, position the launcher horizontally so the center of the arrow shaft measures 13/16” from the riser.

Time the rest so the launcher stays up for approx. the first 1” or so of the shot. Any longer and you risk fletching contact with the launcher.

Install the loop so your arrow is level with the launcher up. I start with a nock height of 3/16” on small carbons. 

With the rest timed, run 50 or so arrows through the bow to settle everything in. Check cam sync and adjust as needed.

Add your peep back into the string. Then proceed to bare shaft tuning. Adjust rest height for tail high/low impact with bare shaft. Adjust the yoke for tail left/right bare shaft impact. Let me know if you need assistance with anything. Hope I didn’t miss anything.


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

Oh yeah, take pics of the cable side of both cams and the cable guard. Helps to put the cables on the right way the first time.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

Pier Pressure said:


> Here’s what I do with my Hoyts....
> 
> Start with a copy of your bow’s tune chart to return it to factory spec...
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time.

I am not so sure the bow was ever "set to me" It's always been an adapt the bow to me since bought because the archery shop "could be bothered" with fine tuning and a new shooter back in 2015. Since it's just been "good enough" but I've never felt confident with the consistency I experience with it. Granted I could kill a deer at 20-30 yards, but I wouldn't do so knowing I could put the same arrow in the same spot twice. 

Im looking at a fresh start for the most part. Will definitely reference the post for direction!


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## Pier Pressure (Dec 21, 2008)

thegospelisgood said:


> Thanks for taking the time.
> 
> I am not so sure the bow was ever "set to me" It's always been an adapt the bow to me since bought because the archery shop "could be bothered" with fine tuning and a new shooter back in 2015. Since it's just been "good enough" but I've never felt confident with the consistency I experience with it. Granted I could kill a deer at 20-30 yards, but I wouldn't do so knowing I could put the same arrow in the same spot twice.
> 
> Im looking at a fresh start for the most part. Will definitely reference the post for direction!


Good luck. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions along the way.


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## 454casull (Jan 6, 2005)

Find Nutz and Bolts of archery on archery talk or google it. Some stuff “may” be over your head, mine too, but you’ll get years of experience in one read. Hoyts can be quirky but not impossible. Results based tuning not just following a set of specs. Take plenty of before pictures and write everything down.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

454casull said:


> Find Nutz and Bolts of archery on archery talk or google it. Some stuff “may” be over your head, mine too, but you’ll get years of experience in one read. Hoyts can be quirky but not impossible. Results based tuning not just following a set of specs. Take plenty of before pictures and write everything down.


Yeah - I found that. I guess he has a dvd too? I was reading through it - seems straight enough forward for me to follow.


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## 454casull (Jan 6, 2005)

From what I’ve heard the dvd is just an audio version of the pdf. Alan has helped me past a few bumps in the process. Who’s threads are you shooting?


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

454casull said:


> From what I’ve heard the dvd is just an audio version of the pdf. Alan has helped me past a few bumps in the process. Who’s threads are you shooting?


Cedarhill Archery


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

New strings on, new rest on (QAD MTX), and tied in a new d-loop. 

Leveled the rest, arrow, and bow with level to rough it in. 

First arrow nock high tear, then another and another.. So it's actually nock high and right.

I moved the rest up as high as it would go and this did not effect the tear even the slightest?


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## salmonsteel97 (Nov 18, 2012)

Check your yokes to see if you have any cam lean. Sometimes bows tune good with a slight cam lean but, when I first start on a tune I try to get zero cam lean set the rest center and leave it. If it won’t clean up with that I’ll work with the yokes and make sure cam timing is good.

I had a rough time tuning my pse vendetta when I put new strings on, I bare shaft tuned and it showed me a lot of issues with cam timing, yoke tuning. Finally got darts flying out to 50.


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## 454casull (Jan 6, 2005)

Cam sync then yoke tune. After cam sync recheck nock height, should be 90 degrees. Cam sync is not cam timing which many get confused. Did you build a draw board? If not add a twist to the bottom cam cable and see how it goes. If you have a proper spine arrow, no contact and center shot correct then use the yoke legs to tune right left.


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## 454casull (Jan 6, 2005)

Cam timing is where the cam starts sync is hitting the draw stops dead nuts together


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

salmonsteel97 said:


> Check your yokes to see if you have any cam lean. Sometimes bows tune good with a slight cam lean but, when I first start on a tune I try to get zero cam lean set the rest center and leave it. If it won’t clean up with that I’ll work with the yokes and make sure cam timing is good.
> 
> I had a rough time tuning my pse vendetta when I put new strings on, I bare shaft tuned and it showed me a lot of issues with cam timing, yoke tuning. Finally got darts flying out to 50.


I had a snafu on the poundage scale and the bow flew out of my hands and the scale hook wedged in my limb, cam, and string.

Managed to get it out damage free - with some scarring - but that was enough for me to take it to the pro shop.

I spent two days trying to DIY the tune and wasn't making progress. Shop said top cam had a bad lean, bottom cam way out of time. Tuned it in. Finishing up some arrows this week and I'll see how things fly.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

454casull said:


> Cam sync then yoke tune. After cam sync recheck nock height, should be 90 degrees. Cam sync is not cam timing which many get confused. Did you build a draw board? If not add a twist to the bottom cam cable and see how it goes. If you have a proper spine arrow, no contact and center shot correct then use the yoke legs to tune right left.


Did not get to build the draw board yet. I have the supplies though.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

454casull said:


> Cam sync then yoke tune. After cam sync recheck nock height, should be 90 degrees. Cam sync is not cam timing which many get confused. Did you build a draw board? If not add a twist to the bottom cam cable and see how it goes. If you have a proper spine arrow, no contact and center shot correct then use the yoke legs to tune right left.


I need to get some string/bow levels to completely tune. Everything I looked at was cheap junk or had bad comments. Any recommendations?


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## 454casull (Jan 6, 2005)

thegospelisgood said:


> I need to get some string/bow levels to completely tune. Everything I looked at was cheap junk or had bad comments. Any recommendations?[/QUOTE
> Look at Lancaster Archery, they have some good simple tools for getting everything level. I’ll try to see if I have the packaging for mine. The drawboard will really open your eyes.


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## stickbow shooter (Dec 19, 2010)

thegospelisgood said:


> I had a snafu on the poundage scale and the bow flew out of my hands and the scale hook wedged in my limb, cam, and string.
> 
> Managed to get it out damage free - with some scarring - but that was enough for me to take it to the pro shop.
> 
> I spent two days trying to DIY the tune and wasn't making progress. Shop said top cam had a bad lean, bottom cam way out of time. Tuned it in. Finishing up some arrows this week and I'll see how things fly.


My cousin had a bow being worked on when the " pro" behind the counter let go of his bow while checking weight. Needless to say parts flew everywhere. Bent axle, broken cam and cracked limb, plus messed up string and cables.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

stickbow shooter said:


> My cousin had a bow being worked on when the " pro" behind the counter let go of his bow while checking weight. Needless to say parts flew everywhere. Bent axle, broken cam and cracked limb, plus messed up string and cables.


Did they replace his bow?


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## stickbow shooter (Dec 19, 2010)

thegospelisgood said:


> Did they replace his bow?


Nope he picked up the pieces and took it to Pro line. They fixed everything for him. This was two days before the opener . He just avoided taking anymore bows to that place.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

stickbow shooter said:


> Nope he picked up the pieces and took it to Pro line. They fixed everything for him. This was two days before the opener . He just avoided taking anymore bows to that place.


I would too...But not without taxing them something fierce for their snafu.


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## fulldraw (Nov 20, 2002)

Give me a call if you have any questions, I would be more then happy to help you.


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## thegospelisgood (Dec 30, 2012)

Arrows nock indexed and now fletched with odd-vane on the index mark. First flight will be soon - then we'll see what problems arise then.


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