# Kayak keel guard



## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

I bought a used kayak last year. And like most that get used alot, the ends get worn down or worn completely thru. I'm trying to be preemptive. While there is still plenty of material left.
I've tried the 2 part epoxy....waste of time IMHO Didn't last/hold up. And I am careful with my stuff. 
Any of you folks use and or recommend the keel guards?
Or any other type like kevlar tape. With good results.
I'm trying a melted plastic coat hanger right now to see if it will last more than a season.


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## Shoeman (Aug 26, 2000)

Never tried it, but...

http://www.keeleazy.com


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## cmonkey (Nov 6, 2004)

I try first of all to be extra careful with my kayak. I went to look at one recently for sale that looks like someone dragged it across a large parking lot before finding water. If a gravel bottom, one CAN get out prior to grinding to a stop, and lift without barely exposing the bottom to a scratch. Carts are worth their weight in gold.

Have a Kilroy coming, and intend to try the keel eazy on it, but will attempt at all costs to not drag the boat.


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## tito (Apr 27, 2012)

Wouldnt melt a coat hanger in there. When you weld plastic you want same stuff as your welding. Welding is the way to go when you want it just as strong. Heat gun works will also take scratches out of anywhere on the boat if your careful. If you ever buy a different kayak one feature on the better kayaks will have a bolt on replaceble pad

Watch a bunch of you tube vids for tips. Heres on fixing a total blown out one


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## Shoeman (Aug 26, 2000)

cmonkey said:


> I try first of all to be extra careful with my kayak. I went to look at one recently for sale that looks like someone dragged it across a large parking lot before finding water. If a gravel bottom, one CAN get out prior to grinding to a stop, and lift without barely exposing the bottom to a scratch. Carts are worth their weight in gold.
> 
> Have a Kilroy coming, and intend to try the keel eazy on it, but will attempt at all costs to not drag the boat.



I think all Jackson's have a skid plate that can be replaced


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

Plastic welding isn't all its cracked up to be IMHO. I did it for 25+ yrs when required when making vehicle door panels, consoles etc. Other methods are much stronger.
I'm using a plastic coat hanger because another MSer used it on his kayak, same brand as mine. So I'm going to give it a try. But if it fails quickly. Just trying to plan my next trial. The keel guards site states they do not hold up to cement. Launching at typical boats ramps, you will drag one end of the kayak trying to get in/out without walking/wading in the water.
I just might have to make my own glue/screw on guard.


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## Shoeman (Aug 26, 2000)

I had a keel guard on my river boat. It worked quite well for beaching it


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## FREEPOP (Apr 11, 2002)

ebijack said:


> Plastic welding isn't all its cracked up to be IMHO. I did it for 25+ yrs when required when making vehicle door panels, consoles etc. Other methods are much stronger.
> I'm using a plastic coat hanger because another MSer used it on his kayak, same brand as mine. So I'm going to give it a try. But if it fails quickly. Just trying to plan my next trial. The keel guards site states they do not hold up to cement. Launching at typical boats ramps, you will drag one end of the kayak trying to get in/out without walking/wading in the water.
> I just might have to make my own glue/screw on guard.


Nothing will hold up to cement but something is better than nothing. Especially something that replaceable.


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## fisheater (Nov 14, 2010)

I use commercially available Kevlar skid plates. You could order from Harmony.com
They are made for Royalex, which is a plastic/foam laminate. Royalex is much stiffer than the polyethylene that plastic kayaks are made of, so it is possible skid plates may not work.
Mine are on their 9th season. I enjoy launching in Lake Huron cobble and river fishing. I do not try to abuse my canoe, however I also must admit it does suffer from some rough use. I will probably apply a small bandage to some small thin area on the plates.
I plan on building a decked cedar strip canoe. While a bit ugly, it will receive skid plates also.
Btw, they will cost around $100. A lot cheaper than a new kayak. Well, a lot cheaper than most kayaks.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

I'm going to test out Gator Patch on one end, coat hanger on the other end just to see if there is a better one. Gator was 40 some dollars for a cutable 6X9" patch. If they don't hold up well, I'll try using #2 HDPE patches.
I try to not drag as much as possible. I have a cart I built. But some times I don't have a choice. Just like loading into the truck bed. I'm to old to be slinging around the kayak like I used to do with my canoes years ago and alot younger.


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## tito (Apr 27, 2012)

Just thought i put this here


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

Only thing I noticed about his demonstration was the bottom of his hull infront of the added wear pads is almost worn thru after 10+ miles. 
It didn't look like that after his 1/2 mi drag while he points out the pad. The further he drags the more worn the hull is. The pads are working, but not what one would think.
Also that is a double point/points of contact not single like most kayaks at the ends.


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