# Canoe Motor, and Oars



## Sam22 (Jan 22, 2003)

And I do mean oars not paddles! My girlfriend bought me a "Water Quest" 14 canoe as a gift. It's not aluminum. Says it's rated for a 2 hp motor, not a flat back like a scanoe or anything like that. So I am wondering if any of you have a canoe with a 2 hp on it? How well does it handle? I would be most interested in running rivers for steelhead with it. It is a little more wide than the average canoe. Second question is what length type of oars should I get, it has oar locks on it, and I am imagining myself float hunting down a UP river with my 14 year old sidekick back rowing as we slowly creep along. We float hunt a couple times a year already with paddles, but I think oars would be awesome. Also any other ideas for hunting fishing rigging would be appreciated! Thanks all...


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## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Congrats Sam!!

I use what could be called a canoe. Its a Grumman sportboat. Basically a canoe with more ribs, a transom and oar locks.

According to this formula:


> 1/2 beam of boat in feet at oarlocks X 25/7, round the answer up to the nearest 6 inch increment if the boat is over 10 feet long


You should be using a 6.25' to 6.5' oar. Mine are a little long (came with the boat) so I need to cut 'em down or get new ones. I can tell you that in a canoe, you may have a clearance issue. I can't row mine with my knees bent because of the lack of height between the seat and the gunnels. Being 6'2" probably doesn't help matters.

The Grumman is rated for 7HP. I have a 5 on it now and it moves and handles very well. Does yout boat have a keel? if not, it may drift a bit in the wind but shouldn't be too bad.

I've also used a 48Lb thrust trolling motor on "no motor" lakes. It also did surprisingly well. It moved the boat and two adults (total weight including boat, battery, motor and ocupants- 600 lbs+) without a problem for most of the day. In the wind, I'd opt for a gas outboard. 

Enjoy your new sea vessel!! Looking forward to a few reports on how it performs and how much fun you and your sidekick have with it.

Chris


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## john warren (Jan 25, 2005)

might take some web searching,, but i saw a device for canoes that allowed you to row with oars and be going forward. the oars basicly were mounted in the middle and you pulled them on the outside of the fulcrum so you went forward. neat little idea.
a 2hp is a lot of power on a canoe. i find im way better off with an electric motor, no need for a big one. allows me to put the battery in the front to balance out the load better.


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## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

give this a try when you get it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4RJAeP7pDI

in shallow water of course. At least 'til you get the swing of it.


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## Sam22 (Jan 22, 2003)

Wow that video is cool! Will have to try that. What size/type/brand paddles should i buy?


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## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

I use Caviness oars. They're cheap, can be bought anywhere (even Meijers and Dunhams have 'em) but they tend to be a bit heavy and varnished with a cheap shellac. Eventually it will get dry and start to flake off. Especially if left in the sun. Doesn't affect the performance and you can always refinish them yourself. $30 - $50 ea. I've used mine for years and they haven't let me down yet.

Carlisle makes another budget minded oar. They offer aluminum shaft/plastic blade and handle as well as wood. Might be a better choice for your lightweight rig. Cabelas has the take-down aluminum model in olive drab for $77/pair. Not a bad choice.

If you want hand crafted American oars, look at Shaw and Tenney. http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php They start at about $183 each for Ash oars.

As for size, get a 6.5' (78") oar. Its easier to cut a little off than it is to add length. According to Shaw and Tenney, a 75" (6.25') should be right for your canoe. 78" is much more common without getting into custom stuff like S&T. Its a 3" difference. You won't even notice. At least not until you're a professional  .

When it comes to oar locks, I prefer this type:









With a urethane bushing in the lock, they tend to be a bit quieter than the "Y" type that the oar just sits in. Especially with aluminum oars. Saves wear and tear on the oar shafts and keeps the oars at the correct location too. Which reminds me, the oar handles should overlap like this: 










Have fun with it.  You're gonna love it.


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## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

One more thing, the anchor rope thread remended me of. If you intend to use an anchor, buy the cheap ones from Meijers or Walmart.

If you drop anchor and it gets snagged on a log or another lost anchor and you can't get it lose, cut it off. There is no need to risk you life or your gear in a canoe. I've seen older folks on the St Lawrence river use coffee cans with concrete in 'em with a length of chain sticking out. On small inland lakes, I've seen downrigger balls used.


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## Sam22 (Jan 22, 2003)

wow thanks fellas! Very helpfull! I know just what to go after now.


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## maak (Aug 15, 2006)

I don't know who makes the rules about oar length or installation, but on my rowboat, I slid the oars farther out, which gives me a lot more leverage, and they don't come near my knees. Still, I've never liked the way oars are built. I'm currently working on a mold to make beefier fiberglass blades to epoxy onto wooden oars. Regular oars are OK for trolling around a lake, but they're terrible when you're trying to get up a quick run in a river. A wider blade would require alot fewer strokes, which would mean less splashing, less spooking the fish, and less movement of the body, which can make a big difference when you're dressed in 3 or 4 layers for January steel.
As for anchors in a canoe on a river, keep a sharp knife right next to the rope. If a log comes downstream onto your rope, you might not have enough time to untie. I learned the hard way in a kayak.


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