# Foam Decoys



## DecoySlayer (Mar 12, 2016)

Yet another view of my "Trophy Barnik"


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## population control (Apr 18, 2009)

Those are sweet decoyslayer. I am working on a all foam spread. Hunted over foam with my uncle for years. Then got my own spread got used what ever I could buy or find. 
Do you use Kilz primer on them to stop mold or mildew ? I heard to use it if your burlaping decoys. Any truth to that.


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## DecoySlayer (Mar 12, 2016)

population control said:


> Those are sweet decoyslayer. I am working on a all foam spread. Hunted over foam with my uncle for years. Then got my own spread got used what ever I could buy or find.
> Do you use Kilz primer on them to stop mold or mildew ? I heard to use it if your burlaping decoys. Any truth to that.


I just use RustOleum oil based primer/paints. I have no idea about Kilz either way.


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## snowman (Jan 29, 2005)

DecoySlayer said:


> That system works, as many do. We are all looking for that "Silver Bullet". A decoy that is "bullet proof", light weight, floats right, does not role over in wind, self righting and never needs repainted. Let me know when you find a way to do all that, and at only $25 per dozen! LOL!


Bullet proof : wood
Light weight : hollowed wood
Floats right, does not role over in wind, self righting : correctly weighted and keeled hollowed wood
Never needs repainted : oil paints, correctly weighted and keeled, hollowed wood
Only $25 per dozen : never gonna happen BUT, purchase the correct materials at the right time in bulk and you can MAKE maybe 3-4 for that price IF you make lots of them yourself. Try to buy them and your looking at $500+ per dozen.

This is as close as your ever going to get. There are 80 year old decoys as described above that still look good. Problem is the ability to HAND CARVE a decoy is being lost. Plastics are the reason and the reason we have so much more competition for spots to hunt.


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## Far Beyond Driven (Jan 23, 2006)

Wood is hardly bulletproof. Once the seal is broken, wood soaks up water and splits like crazy. I have some cedar decoys I carved that are awesome but probably some of my most fragile.

Corkers, if shot, will soak up water but not split. They just need to dry out FOREVER before being fixed. One of my corkers gets shot it's usually on the mantle until the after season fixing begins.

HD cork, pine heads, spar varnish, rattle cans with templates then Rustoleum flat for detail.





  








10-24-10_022




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Far Beyond Driven


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Nov 12, 2010








Tile mastic over blue foam, rattle can all over, then Rustoleum or detail (and some of the thickes ice I've broken with my boat)





  








Goldeneyes




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Far Beyond Driven


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Oct 31, 2013


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## DecoySlayer (Mar 12, 2016)

snowman said:


> Bullet proof : wood
> Light weight : hollowed wood
> Floats right, does not role over in wind, self righting : correctly weighted and keeled hollowed wood
> Never needs repainted : oil paints, correctly weighted and keeled, hollowed wood
> ...


Me? Carve? I can't even carve out time for a nap let alone to "art work". I am about as no talent as you can get.


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## snowman (Jan 29, 2005)

Hey everything is hard until you've done it once or twice. I've got cedar decoys my father carved back in the 80's that we use every season. Never to old to learn.


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## DecoySlayer (Mar 12, 2016)

snowman said:


> Hey everything is hard until you've done it once or twice. I've got cedar decoys my father carved back in the 80's that we use every season. Never to old to learn.


My talents, unfortunately, lie elsewhere.


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