# Tile new shower



## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

Any pointers before I go at it? I have done floors before but never a shower. Want to do it rite the first time,so where and how should I start the first row in a walk in shower(no tub).


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## FIJI (May 15, 2003)

doesnt really matter where you start IF the layout is complete and correct. I usually start with the hardest to reach stuff first - just to get it out of the way. Tile never works out evenly on all the walls so plan your cut tile plaement carefully

Is the tile going over cement board?


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## BUGBOAT (Oct 25, 2005)

Do yourself a favor and check out this forum http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1 before you get too far into it. I found this site when I tiled my kitchen floor, counters, and backsplash. There are a lot of experts there that love to help DIY'ers. The most important part of a tiled shower is the method of water proofing. Cement board, tile, and grout alone are not water proof. "JAZZ" is also a member of this site as well as the JB forums. He may be along also to give you some advice. Hope this info helps and have fun. Let us see some pictures of your project when you get it all done.

Eric


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

FIJI said:


> doesnt really matter where you start IF the layout is complete and correct. I usually start with the hardest to reach stuff first - just to get it out of the way. Tile never works out evenly on all the walls so plan your cut tile plaement carefully
> 
> Is the tile going over cement board?


 Yes sir it is going on cement board. I was thinking of scewing a peice of wood or board up from the bottom wall,and make it level to start from. I was thinking that way hopefully the tiles will all run even,any thoughts?


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

I also would like to add this bathroom is being built in the basement on cement floor and the floor of shower has pvc liner installed for waterproofing. I will post pic of what I have finished so far when I get a chance.


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

I second the recommendation on using John Bridge's site. It is the best on the web, by far, for this subject. I also echo the cement board substrate with felt/tar paper or plastic stapled to the studs behind the cement board. Try to get the cement board plumb, which may mean shimming the cement board or planing the studs. Big headache, but if you don't do it you will see wavy walls when you are done. The tile follows whatever it is adhered to, and ideally the walls should be plumb.

I tiled a walk in shower with cement board, and also a tub/shower with hand floated mud walls using John Bridge's site. The mud walls were fun but time consuming. 

Start the bottom row level, then build everything up from that and it will all be level. I used tile wedges (white rubber/vinyl ones, not horseshoe) under the first row to get them level, then tile spacers (crosses) for the upper rows. What is your floor that you are starting with? Depending on your situation you may have make the bottom row with all cut tiles, then you can use whole tiles for the higher rows. Photos help us help you. You will get lots of good advice at the JB site. Good luck and show us your progress pics.


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## BUGBOAT (Oct 25, 2005)

> I also would like to add this bathroom is being built in the basement on cement floor and the floor of shower has pvc liner installed for waterproofing


Does the floor under the liner have a pre-slope (1\4 inch per foot) to the drain? If not, moisture will collect on top of your liner, under the tile and thinset. You will then have mold problems in your grout lines on your tile floor. 

Eric


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

BUGBOAT said:


> Does the floor under the liner have a pre-slope (1\4 inch per foot) to the drain? If not, moisture will collect on top of your liner, under the tile and thinset. You will then have mold problems in your grout lines on your tile floor.
> 
> Eric


 Yes sir it does.


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## kneedeep (May 30, 2008)

You want to make sure your walls are waterproofed. I like to use the waterproofing on the face of the CBU (durabond D-222)and not a moister berrier behind it. If you use it behind it and then nail/screw the board up you defeat the purpose because now you have nail holes in it.

I alway start from the floor up. You want to start about an 1.5 inches up from the pvc liner (depending on the size of the piece at the top). I build up and level a strait edge to start with, once that is level the rest will be a breeze. 

As far as your shower pan you will need use concrete to get the correct pitch. This will be a tough task. They do sell plastic screeds with the proper pitch to help first timer with (highly recomended). You can also do this step first and let it cure over night and then start tiling directly on top of the new concrete floor.


Take your time with the layout and double check before you start. Keep use updated with pics. Good luck


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## MSUICEMAN (Jan 9, 2002)

i just did a huge shower I put in my addition. I recommend (as well as the pros that I had set the pan, I didn't want to risk it and being an odd size, there wasn't a good pre-made) the red guard stuff to waterproof joints and any other odd angles/etc like the front step, etc.


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

Took a few pics last night with camera of what I have up to date but haven't downloaded to home pc yet. I am at work now and have a few starting pics on my blackberry but wasn't able to upload on pc because of some error.

If someone could post pics I have on my phone please pm your e-mail and I will send them to you thx. I also built hair salon for my wife thats finished,that is next to the bathroom im working on now,I will send those pics also. When I get home tonight I will post pics of whats finished so far in bathroom.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

The most important parts of building a shower is completed before any tiles are set. Tile, and grout have little to do with "waterproofing".



> Does the floor under the liner have a pre-slope (1\4 inch per foot) to the drain?


You answered;


> Yes sir it does.


Just to make sure, let me ask again. You have 2 slopes over the concrete floor. One under the membrane and the second on the membrane, right? The membrane is attached to the drain and there is a bead of silicone on the underside of the membrane. AND you have also protected the weep holes with pea gravel or (?) to keep the deck mud from plugging the weep holes? 

The membrane goes up the wall at least 3" above the finished curb height and over the curb. 

I highly recommend a surface waterproofing since there is no way to build
traditional shower with concrete backer correctly unless you apply a surface waterproofing. 

I only build showers using the Kerdi membrane AND Drain method. The best way to go. http://picasaweb.google.com/tile4youinc

I recommend the John Bridge Forum too as you can tell from the pics.

Jaz


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

Thx for the replies guys,and Jazz your work in your pics are awsome! I see where I made a mistake allready with not putting gravel around drain that you mentioned. Other than than that I think the rest is ok and I will put on a surface waterproofer as mentioned. After seeing your work im allmost afraid to post my pics but than again Im not claiming to be a pro or sell my services lol.


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## kneedeep (May 30, 2008)

Don't forget to tape the joints on your CBU before you waterproof. This is what it will look like when your done.
Color veries with brand.
​


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

Here is finished salon for my wife that is next to bathroom im working on now.
























On the otherside of salon I plan to do a wet bar. The elec and plumbing has been preped allready for that but dont have the funds to start yet.

This is what I have got so far on bathroom and im sure I could have done things better but im trying.


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## Rumajz (Dec 29, 2005)

There isn't a better product for shower waterproofing than Kerdi IMO. In your situation however, (providing your shower pan waterproofing extends up your walls behind your cement board high enough) using some type of liquid waterproofing membrane for your walls will be sufficient and easiest. Even RedGard will work if you roll on a few layers and will be really easy to do. 
And I almost forgot, getting those drain weep slots "open" is pretty critical, I've never had to chisel dry pack mortar before but it shouldn't be too hard to redo it around your drain flange and leave some gravel or (I use a few tile spacers) around those weep holes. 

Your pictures look great, I think you did an awesome job.


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## sweatyspartan (May 24, 2004)

interested to see how this pans out....I"m looking to build one into my master bath in the future and it woudl be on a slab like yours so a pretty similar project. The more pics the better!


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

A Kerdi shower, properly installed is the only way to go. Most people shouldn't make a shower their first attempt with tiling and waterproofing. But then again most pros make several mistake when building showers. 

Jaz


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

Haven't got much done with my job and everyday life sucking up my time,but thought I would post couple more pics. The wife wanted this marble top vanity in and toilet and I got the waterproofer on.

Time to start tile work now.


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## Jaz (Oct 16, 2009)

What brand membrane is that? Hydroment, Laticrete? What's behind the membrane? Did you place a pre-slope under the sheet membrane for the floor? In other words do you have 2 slopped deck mud layers? One under the sheet membrane and the second over the membrane? 

If you did use a traditional sheet shower pan membrane, why the surface membrane? OR.....

Do I see a square drain grille in that floor?

Jaz


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