# Plumbing upgrade



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

Looking to upgrade some plumbing in my house. Pipes in question are all very accessible from basement open ceiling.

Looking to upgrade from existing mix of "galvenized" /iron / pvc to copper.

What am I going to pay to have a plumber do this (guesstimate)? 

I would assume less than 60' of pipe (H/C to kitchen, H/C to laundry room, H/C to 2 baths and C to 2 outside taps). I would assume a partial days worth of time for someone who does it professionally.

Any ballpark guesses are appriciated. $500? $1000? $2000??


Also, anyone on here that does this type of stuff in the Mid-Mich area, shoot me a pm if interested in quoting.


----------



## contrary2ordinary (Aug 26, 2006)

Rustyaxecamp said:


> Looking to upgrade some plumbing in my house. Pipes in question are all very accessible from basement open ceiling.
> 
> Looking to upgrade from existing mix of "galvenized" /iron / pvc to copper.
> 
> ...


I just had it done this weekend. You should be able to do it for under $1000.


----------



## roger23 (Jan 14, 2001)

I would think 2 days work $1000 to $1500, do it your self a section at a time ,,by adding shut off valves,,may be less depending on who does the work,,also how many fixtures have to be replaced


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

I am pricing it out to see if it is worth it to do myself.

If it saves me the grief and stress of doing it and i don't have to go bankrupt, I have no problem hiring it done.

The wife and I just about threw down when I had to replace some plumbing assoc with a leaky toilet.

I will be the first to admit I am far from a handyman and don't like to "out of my element".....:gaga:


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

By "fixtures" do you mean like sinks and stuff?

If so, I don't plan on changing any. Maybe the outside taps if that is necessary, but really nothing else.

Pieces of the house have been updated over the years (built '38) and some of the stuff has been adapted to work with the existing stuff.


----------



## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Don't forget the supplie(s) to the toilet(s) and water heater if they aren't already done. Easy job and I'd imagine you'd save 50% doing it yourself.


----------



## contrary2ordinary (Aug 26, 2006)

I would bring someone in if you can. You're setting yourself up for a long day doing it yourself if you run into any problems.


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

contrary2ordinary said:


> I would bring someone in if you can. You're setting yourself up for a long day doing it yourself if you run into any problems.


My thoughts exactly. I can picture myself with everything tore apart, not a clue what to do next and no water to the whole house. All because I didn't want to spend $500.

Contrary - are you in Bay City or out west?


----------



## contrary2ordinary (Aug 26, 2006)

Rustyaxecamp said:


> My thoughts exactly. I can picture myself with everything tore apart, not a clue what to do next and no water to the whole house. All because I didn't want to spend $500.
> 
> Contrary - are you in Bay City or out west?


I'm in Bay City right now


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

If anyone is interested in this work please shoot me a PM.


----------



## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

It's been about 5-6 years ago now and copper prices have gone WAY up from then. But my step father's dad's house needed a new kitchen so I ripped it all out and started redoing it. Half way through the job we decided to re-plumb the rest of the house because it had galvanized pipe. This was a small bungalow in Royal Oak and there was not plumbing on the second floor. But they ran all new copper to the water heater, kitchen, and bathroom and we paid $1800.

John


----------



## snaggs (Jul 20, 2005)

Well now! get yourself a book on plumbing and have at it. Plumbing is not rocket science and even a POLAK can do it. This I know. Take your time one fixture at a time. Just like going to school again.


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

I just looked at the area again, and I think it is less than I said before. I may talk myself into doing it myself yet........ Plenty of spiderwebs, that is a big factor right now....... 

I called the nearby Ace Hardware and the guy quoted me $12.99 for a 10' section of 1/2" copper line. That was cheaper than I thought.

Still welcoming any input or side job offers.


----------



## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

I don't know about your area, but the ACE Hardware by my house is WAY higher in price than Home Depot or Lowes. Might want to check the local "big box" for pricing. I would imagine that most of what you'll need should be 3/4 for the main lines and then some reducing T's and run 1/2" off to your tub, sinks, toilet, etc.

John


----------



## Rustyaxecamp (Mar 1, 2005)

I'm sure it is indeed cheaper at the big box stores, and depending on how it goes, i may buy it there. However, Ace is about 5 blocks from my house.


----------



## Ricky Missum (Jan 10, 2003)

Do you know what "flux" is ?? The big box store should be cheaper, but if you have a wholesale source that could amount to major savings! Maybe try replacing your outside hose bibs first before you try to do the complete house. Be careful. with the age of your home, or any home, a hot flame pointed in the wrong direction could lead to some serious problems, not that I've nearly burnt down a few dwellings in my day, including my own!!!! Maybe pvc with clamps maybe more cheaper, make sure you check your valves at your watermeter (most likely gate) to make sure you get a good shutdown before starting anything and goodluck!


----------



## plugger (Aug 8, 2001)

I redid my sons house last fall that had the same mix of plumbing, I went to hook a washer and ended cutting all the plumbing down. I am not sure what it cost but my wife said it would of been cheaper to go to canada fishing!I do the work she pays the bills. I would recomend only taking a whole house copper project if you had someone on the job that had some decent experience. I had about 12 hours in the job and that was moving at a pretty good pace. Be sure to use dialectric unions at the hot water heater and wherever else you change metals. With a combination of metals you may well end up with pin holes so it might be cheaper to do the job before the flood.


----------



## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

Go with PEX, even after buying the crimpers for 100 bucks you will be ahead. 

I will never do another copper job again.


----------

