# no spark



## luckdog257 (Jul 16, 2007)

I have an older sears craftsman snow thrower my grandfather gave to me. Its 4 hp 20 inch wide probably eary 80's. My problem is I am getting no spark, I have new points to put in but dont know how or what to set them at. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.


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## boomer_x7 (Dec 19, 2008)

sound like the points for shure. most likely they are sapose to be set around 1/8th inch. (i believe that is the recomendation). I have always just put them closer. You basically need them close enough to work but not touching the fly wheel.


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## dugfish (Jan 11, 2002)

might want to try and use emery cloth or fine sand paper on the fly wheel and points before replacing them
doug


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

dugfish said:


> might want to try and use emery cloth or fine sand paper on the fly wheel and points before replacing them
> doug


I wondering if you tried a new spark plug? If not try that fist then I would try what DF suggested next. If you do decide to replace the points set the gap on the them using the cover of a paper match book, its about .020" thick which is the common point gap for most small engines.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Good thread,, as it appears I've been nominated to work on my SIL's craftsman snowblower.. What exactly are "points"?? I think she put a new sparkplug in,, but it still doesn't run.


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## thumbgoodfisherman (Dec 6, 2005)

Burksee said:


> I wondering if you tried a new spark plug? If not try that fist then I would try what DF suggested next. If you do decide to replace the points set the gap on the them using the cover of a paper match book, its about .020" thick which is the common point gap for most small engines.


Burksee, that must be somekind of method brought down from ancestors thee old matchbook cover, because that same method my dad uses.


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Don't mean to sound like a prick, but how did you check for the spark? Pull the spark plug out, leave the wire connected and put it against the block, make sure there is very little light because it's hard to see a spark in the light and go from there. Spark, fuel and compression. It could be a bad wire also. Use the matchbook trick. For older motorcycles they use that, especially when they break down on the road. The cellophane from a pack of cigarettes work a little better for bikes though.

Or another way to check is have a friend grab the plug while you crank on it.


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## luckdog257 (Jul 16, 2007)

does anyone know where some thin ice is or where i can get a small stick of dynamite for this thing. I cannot get this thing to run, I ended up taking it in hopefully it wont cost to much otherwise the wife just gonna have to spring for a new shovel for herself. thanks for the help.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Sounds like it's too late and you've already taken it in. But because it's a Sears, you should be able to easily get parts and info on the machine. Go to Sears.com and then to the Parts section. Enter your complete model number (It should be three numbers, a decimal, and several more numbers). Do a search and you should be able to come up with a complete parts break down as well as be able to download a manual for it.

I've done this for several different Sears (craftsman) brand products in the past and always been able to get the info I needed. In fact I just did it yesterday. I was using my Craftsman snow blower which is about 5-6 years old. It was working fine and then I had a problem with it going forward if there was more than minimal resistance. (i.e. a decent size pile of snow) I took the bottom plate off and everything looked OK but I made a slight adjustment to the wheel engagement lever. It didn't help so I got the manual out and found that there is a friction disc in there that is the actual "clutch" and it's apparently a common maintenance item. I looked at mine again and did find a chunk out of it and it is also fairly well worn. I logged on to Sears Parts Direct and ordered another one and it's supposed to be here tomorrow. 

That Sears web site is a very good source of information for Craftsman products.

Good luck!

John


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## luckdog257 (Jul 16, 2007)

thanks for all the info and help. I'll have to check out the sears site, that sounds very helpful and I do need a manual for it. Have a Merry Christmas


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

jpollman said:


> Sounds like it's too late and you've already taken it in. But because it's a Sears, you should be able to easily get parts and info on the machine. Go to Sears.com and then to the Parts section. Enter your complete model number (It should be three numbers, a decimal, and several more numbers). Do a search and you should be able to come up with a complete parts break down as well as be able to download a manual for it.
> 
> I've done this for several different Sears (craftsman) brand products in the past and always been able to get the info I needed. In fact I just did it yesterday. I was using my Craftsman snow blower which is about 5-6 years old. It was working fine and then I had a problem with it going forward if there was more than minimal resistance. (i.e. a decent size pile of snow) I took the bottom plate off and everything looked OK but I made a slight adjustment to the wheel engagement lever. It didn't help so I got the manual out and found that there is a friction disc in there that is the actual "clutch" and it's apparently a common maintenance item. I looked at mine again and did find a chunk out of it and it is also fairly well worn. I logged on to Sears Parts Direct and ordered another one and it's supposed to be here tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Good luck on that friction disc John, those are a pain in the but to put in on most of them. You may have to take the entire "guts" of the drive system out to install it.
One more peice of info on the sears website, if you are looking up a part for the engine you will need the "engine" # located on the fan housing (sheet metal). The engine # always starts with a 143. 
Oh, and if it's a 4 cycle, 2 stage (don't have to mix gas & oil) and it has elect. start, the # is usually under where you plug the cord in.

Yes indeed the point setting should be 0.20 of an inch. 
Most likely the points on an old machine. Could be spark plug, bad switch, bad coil. Some machines have 2 switches, one on the handle control panel and one on the engine.

For you others that can't get their machines to run, if you left fuel in it all summer, dump it, drain the carb and put in fresh fuel.
If that don't get it going bring it to me.  I'll get 'er going for a small fee.:evil:
Spent 10.5 hrs Thurs fixing snowblowers, got some sleep, then went out and plowed snow for 19 hrs.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Maybe I shouldn't open my mouth too quickly. But the friction disc on my machine looks like it shouldn't take more than thirty minutes tops to complete. With the machine stood up on its front side it's very easy to get to the "guts" of the drive system. According to the directions all I have to do is remove three screws that hold the disc to its hub. Then remove four screws (two on each side) that are holding bearing retainers that hold a hex shaft in place. Then the hex shaft pulls out of one side and the disc should easily slide off. Then just slide the new one on and reinstall the screws on the bearings and then screw the disc to the hub and it should be ready to go. As I said, it's all easily accessible. Looks like I may have lucked out on this one. 

John


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## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

LAUGHING MY DRUNK BOTTOM OFF

John, 

You have a severe case of, "this looks pretty easy"


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

I'll be sure to report after the part comes in and it's installed. :lol:

John


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## snowman11 (Nov 21, 2006)

I do wish you luck


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

Yep, sounds like you got one of the easier ones.

Did an old Ariens once and had to drop the whole drive out. After I was done it wouldn't start. Gonna cost the customer more money so he skipped out on it and I still got it. :rant: That's what I get for not taking a deposit.
Dragged it out this year to see if I can find time to get it going since it looks like it's gonna be a good winter and I only have 1 left to sell.

And I won't make fun of your bad luck lately. :lol: 
If I made fun of all the people who tried to fix it themselves I wouldn't have any customers left! :lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## averageguy (Jan 1, 2008)

In the future if you have a spark or points problem you can convert to electronic ignition with a conversion that is inexpensive and easy to install. I think it was 10-15 bucks and one hot wire and a ground. It worked great on my montgomery ward rototiller. Purchased it at the Sumpter Ace hardware. I love the local hardware store where you deal with the owner who knows what he has,where it is,and what it does!


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## FERG 06 (Oct 6, 2006)

Yep, those work well.

Hey average, is that your truck up at the dunes?
I started running the dunes in my dad's buggy when I was 14.
Had my own in the 80's. Knew that place like the back of my hand.
Ran trucks and my quad in the 90's.
Quit doing that in the 20's :sad: and took up fishing in Lk Mich.


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## averageguy (Jan 1, 2008)

You guessed it. That's my truck down by the water at Silver Lake dunes. I went 3 summers ago.


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