# First deer blind build--do I have the right idea?



## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

Hi All,

Aside from my introduction, this is my first post. As a long time lurker I've gleaned great info from this forum and hope to gain some additional insight from folks regarding my first deer box blind build in an effort to avoid any post-build regrets.

First, yes, I've searched and reviewed other forum posts (as well as plenty of Googling..) and found excellent direction.

I've gathered plans, tips, suggestions. But as I contemplate this build I keep vacillating on size--so this is my primary question but I welcome any conversation on this topic. 

I considered a number of sizes and narrowed to 4'x6', 4'x8' and 6'x8' for various reasons including limited waste/minimizing build time with fewer cuts, etc. I sure like the idea of a 4'x8', but is that too narrow?

Sure, it's easy to say build it big. But like many I'm seeking the right balance of utility, longevity, and budget. Plus, I do believe that it can be 'too' big which would be a pain to hunt out of if required to slide back and forth.

These are relevant considerations for my applications:

--This will be a wooden (1/2 CDX walls, 3/4 treated CDX floor, and either treated 4x4 or 4x6 posts, treated 2x4 or 2x6 base.). Regardless of length/width, I'm planning the height to be about 7' in the front with a lean-to metal roof sloped 8 inches to 6'4" tall in the rear. Concreted posts, flip up windows on all sides, interior walls and exterior windows painted flat black, and scrap carpet/foam to help dampen noise.

--75%+ of the time I'll be hunting in the blind with my wife or a buddy--so it has to be comfortable for 2 people plus a Buddy Heater and some gear to sit in for most of the day. We're talking a couple of 6' tall, 180lb guys or a thin framed woman.

--I'm a rifle hunter, thus don't need it to be as wide as a bow blind would be.

--It will be permanently placed--portability is not a concern.

--It's just me, portable tools, and nearby access to AC. And I won't have heavy machinery for the purpose of erecting.

--The setting is woodland where the opportunity for a shot over 70 yards is rare (and the sight plane is only approx 50 yards in an area where three trails converge on a pond). Because of the heavy surrounding tree canopy, it would propbably be detrimental if elevated too high. For this reason I don't think I need to elevate more than 5 to 6 feet high--Shadow Elevators/EZ Brackets aren't going to be necessary. I know, that may not be high enough to tunnel scent upwards. Am I making a mistake with the height?

I'm relatively new to deer hunting and open to hear your experienced ideas on any/all of the above. Thanks in advance.


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## Luv2hunteup (Mar 22, 2003)

5-1/2 x 5-1/2 is a perfect size for two.


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## b33b (Oct 14, 2013)

I would have the windows fold down instead of up, it is much easier just to drop them down than to prop or hang them up. To help cut down on glare from the windows and to help from seeing in easily, I used to hang pieces of screen on the outside of the windows. You can still see fine and you can put your gun right under the screen when you shoot. I also would think twice about only putting 8 ft off ground. In most cases higher is better at least for gun season. Most of the leaves will be gone by then so you should have a great view unless you are in pines.


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

Luv2hunteup--thanks. mmm, perhaps I should consider a 5.5x5.5. Maybe I'll look at a 6x6, seems like less wasted lumber.
---

B33B--thank you. I'd planned on framing the windows and swinging internally rather than to the outside. My thinking was by folding up and simply holding in place with a barrel slide bolt at the top it would get the window out of the way since it will protrude out slightly with its 2"x2" internal framing...and the bottom window sill would provide a nice gun rest with the window tucked up. I'll re-sketch using your suggestion to flip down.

Excellent call on the screen, I will incorporate this. Works well out of a pop-up blind, same principle here..

Point taken on the height. I'll really have to think about this. But even if built in modular sections, how does one person even get the preassembled base on the posts if going 12' high so. I'm not convinced that Shadow Elevators dramatically facilitate erecting the blind..


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## syonker (May 7, 2004)

Luv2hunteup said:


> 5-1/2 x 5-1/2 is a perfect size for two.


I built mine 4x4 & I wish I would have gone 5x5.

I can stretch out diagonally, but not perpendicularly.

Too cramped for 2.

I built mine in the garage using lag bolts. I disassembled it, transported it to my site & reassembled it. No need for power tools out in the field-just a socket set.

Seriously consider using the mossy oak camo clad OSB sheets for the walls ($19 per sheet at Lowe's). It will last just as long as regular Cdx but you won't have to paint/stain it ever.

Buy a rubber horse stall mat for the floor. It will make the blind super quiet & provide some insulation for your feet.


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## b33b (Oct 14, 2013)

When I put mine up I had 3 of us, you will definitely need at least 2 people to do it a higher up elevation. Another thing is using the metal roof can be a problem it lasts for a very long time but in the rain it is very loud and hard to here any deer that may be close. 
Yes the windows should open in and fold down which will keep them out off the way and this usually can be down with one hand. I found that I kept the widows open a lot, unless it was real cold or windy. Another reason was if I did shoot I didn't want the empty shell to bang off the Window to the side. Most people don't think about this but it is very loud if you have a pump or a semi auto and you rack the shell off of the window


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## Garrettsdad (Dec 28, 2010)

My blind is 5x6 and 2 fit easily. My windows fold up inside and are held up with an old leather belt w/ a hole at the top to push over a screw . What you need to think about is no metal latches for door, windows etc. Deer are alerted by anything that doesn't sound natural, so quite latching is a must to me


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


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## Scout 2 (Dec 31, 2004)

Make sure to glue and screw the floor down 5 1/2 X 51/2 or 6 X 6 is the perfect size. I did not glue the floor in one of mine and the floor creaks when you step in one certain place.


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## miruss (Apr 18, 2003)

b33b said:


> I would have the windows fold down instead of up, it is much easier just to drop them down than to prop or hang them up. To help cut down on glare from the windows and to help from seeing in easily, I used to hang pieces of screen on the outside of the windows. You can still see fine and you can put your gun right under the screen when you shoot. I also would think twice about only putting 8 ft off ground. In most cases higher is better at least for gun season. Most of the leaves will be gone by then so you should have a great view unless you are in pines.


Thats the way i did my windows fold in and down just unlatch on the side i see 90% of the deer lean gun against the window when i grab my gun the window falls in with no sound. I also put old carpet on the walls and floor really helps keep the sound down. for heat i rigged up a side burner off a old gas grill ( good for cooking lunch also )just run a rubber hose out to a 20LB tank good for couple yrs more then enough heat t-shirts no matter how cold outside. I did find it helps to have a small battery operated fan hanging at the roof to move heat down.

I have pics of mine some where if you want pm me i'll send them to ya


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## Boatown (Nov 27, 2004)

I built another blind this weekend 5x5 Is perfect
For crossbow and gun Bought a shadow hunter crossbow blind 2 years ago for 850 at the end of the year and used that as my template my cost on materials was 600 for the blind and 400 for the 12 foot high base with stairs this is the 3rd blind I built and only saved 250 not including my time at 8 hours There are a lot of build blinds on the market that would soot your needs and they are light weight And will last longer then wood covered by a cheap vinyl sheet


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

syonker said:


> I built mine 4x4 & I wish I would have gone 5x5.
> 
> I can stretch out diagonally, but not perpendicularly.
> 
> ...


Thanks syonker--
I've heard the rubber horse mat tip before, good call.
I had considered the camo osb when I saw it at Menards (it's priced at $25/sheet vs. $20 at Lowes--unusual since Menards is most often less in general..)

I sort of eliminated it not b/c of the cost differential, rather because I was recommended against it from a buddy who is a gen. contractor and used it for his build. Basically he echoed what this member, DoubleDropTineTrouble, said in the post below 

_"It holds up only as good as regular osb. Cut ends soak up moisture. Pattern is dark and blinds still look like solid masses from any distance. Save your cash..."_

Additionally the mfg. states "for temporary exterior use only".
So I'm probably just going to stick with $14 sheets of 1/2 CDX and paint a nice breakup pattern every few years.


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

Garrettsdad said:


> My blind is 5x6 and 2 fit easily. My windows fold up inside and are held up with an old leather belt w/ a hole at the top to push over a screw . What you need to think about is no metal latches for door, windows etc. Deer are alerted by anything that doesn't sound natural, so quite latching is a must to me
> 
> Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


I knew this forum was going to yield some great advice!

You're right...bad call on my metal barrel bolt latch idea. Love the ingeniously quiet old belt idea. If I end up going with flip-up (..the majority suggestion seems to be flip down..) I'll use your belt idea for sure.


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## pikeman1 (Jan 15, 2009)

I have 2 blinds, the original one I built 6x6 outside dimensions and I think it is tight with 2 people inside. The second one I built is 8x8, plenty of room for 2 people and all your junk to move around. All were built just like a house, sided, vinyl sliding windows, eves all done like a house, insulated, house door. Build it right the first time and it will last forever and be comfortable. Heat both with the mr heater buddy and hunt in my t-shirt. Good luck.


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

Scout 2 said:


> Make sure to glue and screw the floor down 5 1/2 X 51/2 or 6 X 6 is the perfect size. I did not glue the floor in one of mine and the floor creaks when you step in one certain place.


Smart suggestion, thank you. This is one I've read in other posts and I'm planning on using a generous amount of Loctite PL Premium on the 16" OC floor supports before driving deck screws in.

Along the same lines, I'm planning on applying silicone to corners, gaps, etc. both for sound dampening and to close up shop for the unwelcome wasps during the off season.


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## winsor.jeremy (Feb 3, 2013)

I built mine 6x6 and really like it. I can take my boys out and have plenty of room for both of them and myself. Find the longest shag carpet you can get... it will help a ton with noise reduction.

Sent from my DROID4 using Ohub Campfire mobile app


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## winsor.jeremy (Feb 3, 2013)

Sent from my DROID4 using Ohub Campfire mobile app


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

pikeman1 said:


> I have 2 blinds, the original one I built 6x6 outside dimensions and I think it is tight with 2 people inside. The second one I built is 8x8, plenty of room for 2 people and all your junk to move around. All were built just like a house, sided, vinyl sliding windows, eves all done like a house, insulated, house door. Build it right the first time and it will last forever and be comfortable. Heat both with the mr heater buddy and hunt in my t-shirt. Good luck.


Pikeman1, that is one heck of a superlative deer blind..and I'm no doubt admittedly envious!
I think for I'm looking for a more utilitarian, lower cost and less time consuming scenario. Plus my skills aren't good enough to embark on something like nice.


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## Biggbear (Aug 14, 2001)

I built one last year that is 5 x 6. Plenty of room for two hunters sitting in leather office chairs, plus a Big Buddy heater in the corner.

I considered every type and configuration for windows you can think of. Everybody had their version of the "best design." I ended up purchasing window kits from Shadow Hunter, best money I spent on the whole project. They sell kits with every piece you need, and they were simple to install.

For roofing I looked into metal roofing, and was concerned about noise too. I ended up with the rubberized asphalt roofing from Lowe's. Comes in sheets just like metal roofing, and you have to use the right nails with the rubber washers on them to seal.

I had looked at Shadow Hunter blinds when I stopped at Jay's. I figured I could build a blind for way less, and end up with one just as nice. I should have bought a Shadow Hunter. You will be surprised at how fast the bill for materials adds up. I could have bought a Shadow Hunter for not that much more money.

My thought at the time was my location. There would be no way I could have moved an assembled blind out to my spot. I designed everything except the floor in two pieces, every wall, and even the ceiling. We carried the sections out to the build site and re-assembled everything in the woods. I elevated it 8 ft. that was an adventure to be told around the campfire for years to come, get more help than you think you'll need, trust me on that one.

Also for the walls I wish I had found some primed barn siding, I think it may last longer, and I wouldn't have to worry so much about keeping it painted so it doesn't rot. One thing I will add is carpeting on the walls about half way up to deaden the sound, I'll also add another layer of carpet on the floor for the same reason.

The weekend in August we got everything assembled and set up I wasn't quite sure it was going to be worth the effort, and expense. I don't remember a time when I was that exhausted. But last winter, hunting in December, wind howling and I'm sitting there in jeans and light jacket, sipping coffee, it all made sense.

Good luck


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## SteadyGSP (Aug 10, 2013)

winsor.jeremy said:


> Sent from my DROID4 using Ohub Campfire mobile app


Thanks for the post and pic....6x6 size seems to be ideal. I think I'll head to HD or Menards and walk into the demo sheds to get a sense of sizes. I've tried doing it virtually by laying scrap trim on the floor as an outline which was limited help.

The roof looks like it's metal? If so, how have you found the rain noise to effect your ability to hear deer as member B3B suggests below:

_Another thing is using the metal roof can be a problem it lasts for a very long time but in the rain it is very loud and hard to here any deer that may be close._


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## hook'em master (Jun 25, 2009)

Build it right the first time. Build it like a Real House. I actually went to a Seminar on this subject in Springfield Ill in late 90's. 
Goto Lowes,Menards,Home Depot, and ask about damaged product like exterior man doors, opened shingle packs, returned carpet, windows,etc etc.
If you don't get sliding style house windows, buy a sheet of plexiglass and cut to size. Then use window tint to your desecration to darken up windows.if you have to go plexi then drill small hole at top and hook 70 lb fish line and run it back to were sitting that way you can pull it up and out of way. Glue and nail all exterior and floor wood to cut down on Creeks. Build a shelf system around the blind to store ammo or gun. Find some old boat seats and bolt to floor eliminates sound.

Until some wonderful teen kids destroyed my place I had a sweet blind took me about 4 mos to build. It was 5x8 and was 12ft up. 2x4 construction with T-11 siding,shingle roof, house style windows,carpet,fully insulated,insulated man door,electric,t.v.,urinal, I had a 100 gal. Propane tank strapped to leg with a heater inside, a cabelas gun rest mounted on shelf/window ledge out front window. It sat 2 country size boys comfortable for a few hrs at a time. Painted it all black and set it up inside the wood line 7-8 yards deep.


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