# my pike spear won't fly straight???????//



## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

i'm getting very fustrated. i live on a large lake in oakland county that has some very nice pike. my problem is that it's very shallow, say 2-3ft. than drops abruptly to 60+ft. i haven't had any luck in the shallows, so i concentrate on the drop offs. the bottom is sand and gravel and the drops are allmost straight down. 
the pike cruise about 12 to 15 ft along the drop. i can get the smaller pike to come up to the decoy say 8 ft. but the big boys won't play the game and hug the bottom.

my problem is the my spear won't fly any farther than say 6 ft. before it starts to plane real bad. towards the long or flat side of the tines. if that makes sense? even if i just drop it straight down with no help.

it doesn't have a name brand on it, but it's a comercial made spear i bought at the bait store next to selfrage afew ywars ago. i've seen them at just about all the fishing tackle shops that cater to us. you'all have probably seen them.

it's heavy and has a nice weight ring around the shaft that runs from the tine bridge to about 10 ins. up the shaft. i use parachute cord tide to a heavy key ring that is run through the hole on the end of the shaft. it's 55 ins. long tip to tip. everything apears straight. it hangs straight from the hook and the shaft rolls flat on a surface.

what can i try to make this thing fly?


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## bloo_gilz (Jan 7, 2001)

I'm interested in the responses .
I initially thought "add weight", but it seems as though that's covered.
Personally I've never speared deeper than 10' or so, so I offer no input.

I speared w/ guys at Higgins in 20 fow & they had a marker on the lake bottom at center of hole. The spear was rigged on a wheel at center of hole.
I was amazed when I witnessed them take bottom-hugging pike...
I wish you luck, it's an awesome sport.


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## Scout 2 (Dec 31, 2004)

You said it has a ring on it for weight can you take the weight off and check to see if it is centered on the spear. If the weight is off center just a little bit the spear will not fly true. I use to spear in 12 to 16 foot of water right at the drop off and my spear has a cast weight appox 12 inces long and about 1 1/2 to 2 inches dia. and this is taper on the spear end to make it go through the water better. It is a non removable weight and is quite accurate. But 50 years ago thing were made better than today and yes I bought it new.


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

the weight is welded to the shaft and is a nice clean job. the shaft is 1/2in. rod and the weight is slide on tight to the rod and fits nice and clean to the rod and welded to the tine bridge.

i was thinking about adding some weight to the head area also. maybe a piece of black pipe. but it has weight already?

if i just dropped this spear 20 ft. it would be at least 10 ft. off the mark.

maybe it's time to find another one. any recommendations?


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## Jim..47 (May 5, 2009)

*



my pike spear won't fly straight???????//

Click to expand...

Maybe your eyes are crooked? :lol:

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I've never speared anything in my life, but I'm wondering if its not a weight thing but an aero-dynamics thing, or water dynamics, but what I mean is something acting as a rudder and causing it to fly off course?
*


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## tinmarine (Nov 19, 2007)

Need to make sure it's true. Get a set of rollers like you would use for rod buiding or for arrows and spin it on that. Same principal as checking an arrow. If it's off a little or the weight is slightly out it'll need to be adjusted.


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## Scout 2 (Dec 31, 2004)

If the weight is welded to the shaft, maybe the heat from welding caused the shaft to distort or bend just a little and this would cause it not to fly true. To check this put the handle on a flat surface so the weight clears this surface. Then make sure the spearhead is flat to this surface and measure from the point on the spearhead to the flat surface, then flip the spearhead over and do the same and see if there is any difference. You don't have to measure all the tines just the ones close to the handle


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## PITBULL (May 23, 2003)

Im betting that the tines are attached one by one to a flat piece of bar stock making up the spearhead. The barstock might be whats causing the spear to plane. If the spear is straight and the head is also straight you could try adding more weight at the spearhead. or this might be a longshot but if you added a wood handle to the end of the spearshaft the boyancy may make the spear travel straighter longer. If all else fails you might want to look into getting a new spear. Im sure someone on here has a spear from Darkhouse Spearing Supply. They may be able to let you know how well they work.


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## Bomba (Jul 26, 2005)

Start using tip-ups.


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## Waxdart (Sep 1, 2007)

Does the cord float? That could cause some resistance.

Maybe the key ring itself or the key ring allowing the rope to waver.

Does the spear have any flat surfaces?


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## bigbuck (Mar 17, 2001)

Put a longer handle on your spear leave some of it in the water. Run your decoy higher pike will usually come up.


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

Jim..47 said:


> *Maybe your eyes are crooked? :lol:*


*yea that could be ha ha. they arn't what they used to be. sure that some blood thinner (jim beam) might have some bearing also baw ha ha!*




tinmarine said:


> Need to make sure it's true. Get a set of rollers like you would use for rod buiding or for arrows and spin it on that. Same principal as checking an arrow. If it's off a little or the weight is slightly out it'll need to be adjusted.





Scout 2 said:


> If the weight is welded to the shaft, maybe the heat from welding caused the shaft to distort or bend just a little and this would cause it not to fly true. To check this put the handle on a flat surface so the weight clears this surface. Then make sure the spearhead is flat to this surface and measure from the point on the spearhead to the flat surface, then flip the spearhead over and do the same and see if there is any difference. You don't have to measure all the tines just the ones close to the handle





PITBULL said:


> Im betting that the tines are attached one by one to a flat piece of bar stock making up the spearhead. The barstock might be whats causing the spear to plane. If the spear is straight and the head is also straight you could try adding more weight at the spearhead. or this might be a longshot but if you added a wood handle to the end of the spearshaft the boyancy may make the spear travel straighter longer. If all else fails you might want to look into getting a new spear. Im sure someone on here has a spear from Darkhouse Spearing Supply. They may be able to let you know how well they work.


 


Waxdart said:


> Does the cord float? That could cause some resistance.
> 
> Maybe the key ring itself or the key ring allowing the rope to waver.
> 
> Does the spear have any flat surfaces?


*yes everything is straight and perpendiclur. the only uneven area is the welding at the tines and it's a very clean weld to the flat 1/4 in. bar stock. i've also tried removing the ring for parachute cord but that didn't help..*

*maybe it does need some kinda rudder. i think i'll see if i can find someone who can turn me a handle for it and see if that helps.*

*those dark house plasma cut spears look real nice. i like the double barb idea.*




Bomba said:


> Start using tip-ups.


ha ha ha ha another funny guy :lol: 

spear fishing is like treestand hunting. you get to watch all the youngins all season and than miss the big boys. 

i do use tip-ups, but there more of a meat rig than a skillful effort.


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

bigbuck said:


> Put a longer handle on your spear leave some of it in the water. Run your decoy higher pike will usually come up.


i thought about using a piece of conduit and pinning it to the hole in the shaft to make it sort of a break down unit. the fish are pretty spooky here from all the boat traffic and, don't like to come up any higher than say 5 feet during daylight. i can get the smaller pike to come up abit, but the big fatties won't leave the deeper depths to chase the decoys.

my concern is that anything hanging down under the ice that doesn't look like weeds and more of a metel prop might deture them abit. but hey it's worth a try, better than a bad hit. first i think i'll try and add a handle to act as a rudde.r mite slow it down abit but, if it throws straight i'm back in action.

my FIL got me into spearing and the spear he used is rsther old but, looked very similar to this one. he could throught that thing straight into the marianas trench if need be. he passed a few years ago and passed it to his first born. :sad:


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

pitbull,

great sig line


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## WhiteTailHunter87 (Nov 29, 2008)

I run my decoy 40% down I have a lake near me that I will some times hit that drops quick I try not to spear deeper then 10fow but thats me I know guys that spear 15-20fow I bought a 9 tine spear its made by Nims Spears and it is heavy also if your decoy is 10feet down in 20 fow try using a spoon jig it the flash will bring them in


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

WTH,

the area on the lake i have the best action is along the steeper ledges. i mean pretty much a straight drop. i think they like the quick excape route. my portable shanty is built for spearing and has a 1 1/2 X 5 ft. hole. so i line it up to get the most angle on the drop. the fish like to cruise the edge around 10-12ft. right where the weed edge ends. 

i had my best luck dangling arround 8-10 ft. with my coys. i've been using emerald or browm shinners 4-5 ins. long they seem to bring in the pike real well but, they also are small enuff for the nice walleye to bite.

i've used may different kinds of decoys and attracters. i have been having good results with those "do-jiggers" from the pimple people. gold with an orange lighting bolt shaped decal. the way they flutter sends out some good vibes......the hammer handles and walleye come in and just smoke that baby.

i'm having mixed results using the spider wire and heavy mono ~vs~ a metel leader. the walleye will shy away sometimes from the spiderwire. won't hit on the metel leader and, only lost one lure to pike on the heavy mono. 

them big boys just don't want to come up any higher than 10-12 ft. they show interest in the flashing but, just won't move past that magical comfort line.


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## Big Jon St.Croix (Feb 9, 2010)

First test to see if it is you or the spear. Take some string and tie it to a hook from the ceiling of your shanty with the spear in the water from 1/2 to 3/4 the length. Take a match and burn through the string until it drops. If it's the spear either replace it or have it fixed, if it's you, practice, practice, practice,.


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## DuckDog (Feb 10, 2004)

You could use an extended handle like they use for sturgeon on Black Lake. You hang the long handled spear from the roof of your shanty with the tines already roughly 6' down in the water. The long handle gives you a shorter throw since the tines are only a few feet above the fish. You could also try a heavier musky spear. I have a couple of heavy spears you could try if you want to invite me to fish with you. I also know a custom spear maker that can help you.


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## Burksee (Jan 15, 2003)

Holy Smokes DD, is your buddy by chance a greek god, or an employee at Maserati? :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## fin fur and feathers (Aug 30, 2009)

Big Jon St.Croix said:


> First test to see if it is you or the spear. Take some string and tie it to a hook from the ceiling of your shanty with the spear in the water from 1/2 to 3/4 the length. Take a match and burn through the string until it drops. If it's the spear either replace it or have it fixed, if it's you, practice, practice, practice,.


yep tried all that it's the spear.



DuckDog said:


> You could use an extended handle like they use for sturgeon on Black Lake. You hang the long handled spear from the roof of your shanty with the tines already roughly 6' down in the water. The long handle gives you a shorter throw since the tines are only a few feet above the fish. You could also try a heavier musky spear. I have a couple of heavy spears you could try if you want to invite me to fish with you. I also know a custom spear maker that can help you.


i thought about adding an extention. just want to try and get it to fly without the added lenght and maneuvering problems. wish it was as easy as bending it back into shape.

as much as it planes to the flat of the tines you'd thick it was bent into a "U" shape.

i wonder if i take and grind the flat bar stock between the tines into a "V" shape if that would help.


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