# Basement Framing Question



## Frozenfish (Dec 20, 2004)

I plan on framing my basement walls. I'm not a carpenter by any means but am willing to try anything. I have a few questions that I'm trying to get figured out.

My first dilemma, keep in mind I work with computers all day, is that my ceiling height is 8'6'' (104''). This is from concrete floor to bottom of floor joist. I know that a bottom plate and two top plates is 4.5'' A 9' stud is 104 5/8'', so I'll be cutting each stud to fit? Seems like a lot of extra work. I need about 110 studs without the partition walls, used a lumber calculator to get this number.

The other alternative is to buy 96'' studs and have a bottom plate, two top plates, which gets me to 100 1/2'', I'm still a few inches short of the floor joist. Can I just attach a small block from the top of the wall to the floor joist for support?

What is the most efficient way to do this?

I'm sure I'm going to have many more questions on this project. I just need to find out the right sized studs to purchase.

One buddy suggested I contact a lumber yard and see if they can give me a kit of all the lumber needed. I was just planning on getting it delivered from one of the big box stores.

Thanks for any advice!


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

You don't need a double top plate as these partitions aren't actually carrying any load from above. You will probably end up with 10' long 2X4's unless some lumber yard actually carries 9's. 9' isn't a commonly stocked dimensional lumber measurement. Yes, you will have to cut every stud.

To be totally honest with you, by far the easiest way to frame basement wall is with steel studs and track, but many guys that aren't familiar with commercial framing don't like using the steel studs. You can however still use the 3 5/8" metal track for the top and bottom plates, screw them to the floor joists and pin the bottom track to the floor, and then cut your wood 2x4's to fit and just screw them to the track. This is WAAAAYYYY easier than framing a wood wall on the floor and flipping it into place or trying to toenail your studs into wood 2x4 plates.


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## FISHMANMARK (Jun 11, 2007)

Frozenfish said:


> I plan on framing my basement walls. I'm not a carpenter by any means but am willing to try anything. I have a few questions that I'm trying to get figured out.
> 
> My first dilemma, keep in mind I work with computers all day, is that my ceiling height is 8'6'' (104''). This is from concrete floor to bottom of floor joist. I know that a bottom plate and two top plates is 4.5'' A 9' stud is 104 5/8'', so I'll be cutting each stud to fit? Seems like a lot of extra work. I need about 110 studs without the partition walls, used a lumber calculator to get this number.
> 
> ...



You don't need 2 top plates. Your walls are only going to be holding up the drywall, paneling, etc. You need a top plate, bottom plate and cut the studs to fit. It's not that much work. Sorry, there isn't a magic trick to get it done.


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## Frozenfish (Dec 20, 2004)

That's what I needed to know. Thanks.


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## HemlockNailer (Dec 22, 2000)

Why not lower the ceiling ? Make the wall 8 ft. Your wall covering will work better drywall or paneling. With a dropceiling it will give you access to plumbing or electrical if you need to in the future.


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## MSUICEMAN (Jan 9, 2002)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-104-5-8-in-Prime-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-832150/202053616 and cut each one.


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## spikehornkid (Dec 26, 2005)

I would use metal studs if it was me, they are alot straighter then wood and if for some reason you get moisture in the basement they don't soak it up.


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## bowjack (Nov 20, 2011)

Most basement floors aren't perfectly level. If you build your walls laying down and haven't allowed for any high spots you might run into trouble when you go to stand them. Better to error on the short side and shim where you attach to the floor joist. Or attach bottom and top plate then cut each stud to fit and toe nail into place. I've worked quite a bit with metal studs but without the proper tools might be more trouble than they are worth for the first timer. Take it for what it's worth from a retired carpenter.


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## Big Rog (Jun 9, 2007)

Lay all your rooms first. Just to see what you'll need. Figure one stud per foot.
Keep all outside wall one inch from basement wall. If you go from the floor to
joist you must draft stop all out side walls. Our draft stopping was 3/4 plywood 
cut into four inch strips and nailed to the floor joist. That butted to the sill plate.
That way you could move the wall out to three inches if need be for plumbing.
Then nail your top plate to the draft stop. Pick the highest point and cut all studs
the same link. So if one end measure 106 and the other end measure 105 1/4.
The 105 1/4 is the high point. Make sure you cut all stud 1/4" shorter so if your
stud measure 105 1/4 cut them 105. Trust me on that. Frame the wall in sections
slid them under the top plate glue and shim were it need be.
Hope this helps.

Tomorrow subject wood stud vs metal stud. The pros and cons.


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## Big Skip (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm interested in the cons of metal studs.


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## MSUICEMAN (Jan 9, 2002)

I believe you need grommets to run power, but metal studs are pretty cool. Oh, and hanging anything.. Wood screws won't work.


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

MSUICEMAN said:


> I believe you need grommets to run power, but metal studs are pretty cool. Oh, and hanging anything.. Wood screws won't work.


Toggles work great though. Any walls I frame with metal that l know I will be hanging a lot of stuff on, like deer mounts for instance, I just sheathe with 1/2" plywood before I put the drywall or paneling up. Nice not having to worry about stud layout when planning where all the deer I hope to mount someday will go.


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## jatc (Oct 24, 2008)

Big Skip said:


> I'm interested in the cons of metal studs.


Biggest con I can think of is this..... Good wood framers can figure out metal studs very quickly. Good metal framers usually suck at wood framing unless they came from a residential background first. Estimators for commercial contractors don't always think about such things when they decide to bid on a bank or credit union that are wood framed.


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## Big Skip (Sep 1, 2010)

MSUICEMAN said:


> I believe you need grommets to run power, but metal studs are pretty cool. Oh, and hanging anything.. Wood screws won't work.


Wood screws will work in metal studs just fine. I prefer a hi/low sharp tip when hanging rock on metal studs. Won't work on the heavier gauge structural steel studs. Also easier to find studs when hanging stuff...just need a magnet.


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## Big Rog (Jun 9, 2007)

Big con you don't get that fresh cut lumber smell.
Have to add wood for doors, trim, hanging cabinets.


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## plugger (Aug 8, 2001)

I would agree with most of what Big Rog posted. Two suggestions I would make is to use a treated bottom plate that is contact with the concrete and I still like a double top plate even though it is not required for structural support. A double top plate gives a bigger margin when nailing drywall or if you decide to use any crown molding. with a single plate when you have installed 5/8 drywall on the ceiling a single plate only leaves 7/8 of an inch to catch with nails or screws when you hang the walls.


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## Frozenfish (Dec 20, 2004)

Thank you all for the input. I am following this but don't have a lot of time, at the moment, to respond. 

Interesting about metal studs. I have a SIP (structural insulated panels) home. All of my interior walls are metal studs. There have been issues hanging some things, tv's and such.

I do like the idea of metal top and bottom plate, makes sense. The current plan is to build the walls and then stand them up. I've measured throughout the basement and there isn't much change height, maybe 2'' at the most. So I will build the walls with the lowest point in mind. 

I'll take some pics and respond later.


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## FISHMANMARK (Jun 11, 2007)

Frozenfish said:


> The current plan is to build the walls and then stand them up. I've measured throughout the basement and there isn't much change height, maybe 2'' at the most. So I will build the walls with the lowest point in mind.


FYI, if you build the wall the same height as your ceiling you won't be able to stand it up. Also, a 2" difference in height is HUGE! I know you don't want to build the wall in place, but that is the correct way to do this...


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## Big Skip (Sep 1, 2010)

The ease of installation along with the light weight and straightness of the studs make it a no brainer for me. Its not difficult to through in some backer or a quick rip of ply on the ground for base. Rip down a couple 2x4s for door casing and your done. I have used both many times. I think it would be easier on a novice carpenter. All u need is a screw gun and snips.


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## Big Rog (Jun 9, 2007)

I understand what your saying. Most customers don't want metal studs 
in their basement. Me I used them every chance I got. Even with wood studs
I put backer blocks in for TV, curtains, towel racks, tp holder, pictures . Since
his house already has metal studs I would go with metal studs.


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