# Knives!



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Bushcraft would be near impossible without a good bushcraft knife. Camping and hiking are usually made better with a quality knife as well. 

Lets see what you take in the woods, hiking, and camping.

My EDC. A BRKT Woodland. This one goes with me everywhere I go. 









I made this one from a blank called a Cobbler knife. Its a scandi edge with some simple oak scales.









My only custom knife, a Wilson in Damascus and stabilized maple burl. Its a hollow grind which isn't the best choice for bushcraft but was all the maker offered at the time.

















And a "chopper" of a knife, my Becker Knife and Tool BK7 that I've polished and recoated the slabs on.









I've got a few more but I need to get some more pics. Til then, show your favorites.
Thanks,
Chris


----------



## papermouth (Feb 5, 2007)

I like my buck,good knife for the price and made in the U.S.!!!


----------



## Steve (Jan 15, 2000)

Please explain what makes a knife a good Bushcraft knife. I'm curious.


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Steve said:


> Please explain what makes a knife a good Bushcraft knife. I'm curious.


To be honest, nothing. Could a steak knife from the kitchen be used in a bushcraft or survival situation? sure. Traditionally, bushcraft knives have been of a specific design that has shown its merits over years of use. That said, most people have a good idea of what works for them.

Most current fans of bushcraft or woodcraft agree with the Nessmuk trio idea. Nessmuk carried a hatchet or small axe, a fixed blade knife and a folder for smaller work. Since bushcraft requires working with wood more than any other material, a knife that works well in that media is preferred. Since you have the hatchet for splitting or heavy cutting, the fixed blade is relegated to smaller, more intricate tasks like notching wood for traps or shelters, dressing game, or making fire or fire starting tools.

So. On to what makes a good bushcraft knife (in my opinion and what others have written) .

First, grind. There are several different grinds found on knives. The four most common are seen here:









What most look for in a bushcraft knife grind is one that will retain and edge, not bind in wood and be easily maintained in the field. Traditionally, the Scandi grind has been a favorite for these reasons. very little surface area contacts the wood being cut, it is relatively easy to sharpen and it holds an edge well (depending on the steel and heat treat). A full convex (like those found on Bark River knives) would be my choice strictly from experience. A convex edge is easily maintained and once it cuts into the wood, the "shoulders" tend to do any splitting and protect the edge. A hollow grind just tends to bind a bit more than most like. Myself included. It is also the weakest of the four.

Second, blade shape and thickness. I could separate these but for brevity, I'll combine them. 

The blade shape is, again subjective. Nessmuk prefered a blade like this: 









While Horrace Kephart liked this blade shape better:









What they both have in common are, they are thin (usually less than 1/8") Convex or full flat grinds with a secondary bevel, and were high carbon steel. You'll also notice that the edge extends all the way back to the handle. This is for cutting harder material with much more control than a knife with a large choil or a wide ricasso. Both have minimal or no guard as well. These are not necessarily used for stabbing so a guard is needed about as much as one would be on one of your kitchen knives.

The length of a bushcraft knife is determined by a couple things. Weight, what you'll be cutting, and what you like to use. Most fall between 3.5" and 5". I prefer something under 4.5" but I'm just getting into this stuff so that may change.

OK, so far that covers the grind, shape and length of hte blade. I'll be back shortly with some info and opinions on steel, handle shape, and what one might have to use a bushcraft knife for.

Chris


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Steel! Every knife nut has their own opinion and favorite. 

There are countless different steels used in modern knife making. Both stainless and high carbon. Some that even blur the line between the two like D2 tool steel that is often called a "semi-stainless tool steel". All have their place in the knife world whether it be performance, cost or marketing. What is important but often overlooked is the heat treat of the blade itself. A bad heat treat can make a high end steel worthless. Either too brittle or not hard enough. With most quality production knives this isn't an issue. Most custom makers take great pride in their work and are going to make sure their heat treat is right as well. Its the low-dollar, no-name imports that you need to keep an eye on.

Carbon Vs. Stainless:

Can a stainless steel be called high carbon? Yes. The buck knife above is a high carbon stainless. 420HC to be exact. Almost all steels have a percentage of carbon in them. The amount of carbon in 420HC is not enough to move it out of the category of "stainless".

Without getting into too many details and voicing my opinion too much I'll keep it simple by saying most high carbon steels, while they will rust quicker, will take an edge easier and keep it longer than the common stainless knives that you find today (edge geometry, heat treat and usage considered). 

For bushcraft, where sharpening tools may be a luxury, a steel that is easily maintained is usually preferred. High carbon steel just works. There's a reason your grandparents liked those Old Hickory knives they used in the kitchen. 

A little bit on handle shapes:

The handle should be comfortable in a variety of positions. No "hot spots" or sharp points that dig into your hand and cause fatigue. You may end up using it for extended periods. Remember that you may have to use this knife in the cold so make sure it works well with gloves on too. It should have a fair amount of grip when wet or bloody as well.

So, what makes a good Bushcraft knife? Lets sum up.

You've seen what Nessmuk and Kephart used. here's some ideas from other practitioners of bushcraft and surval.

Les Stroud (Survivorman) has shown that he has a fondness for the Buck Woodsman model 102.









Notice it is hollow ground, has a guard and is stainless steel. Three things that I tend to disagree with when it comes to bushcraft knives. Les knows more about bushcraft than I ever will. He has devoted his life to it. This is a perfect example of "what works for some may not work for others". 

Bear Grylls (Man Vs. Wild) While more of a SHTF Survivalist than a bushcrafter, Bear knows his stuff better than most. His knife of choice:









A custom piece made by Bailey Knives in England. It comes in around $600 and is a marketing thing more than quality. It is a quality knife that works well but you can get something that works for you for a lot less coinage. 

His is a "V" grind (Like a Scandi but with a secondary bevel).

Mors Kochanski  has been a fan of the Mora. A scandinavian knife usually made in Sweden and available in stainless and high carbon steels. Scandi grinds are the norm and they come in a variety of handle materials and shapes. The bladed themselves are usually around 4" and relatively short with a height of around 1". A good Mora can be had for as little as $8 and as high as $30. Most are about $10 and very good knives for the money. I have several and love 'em.
Mors EDC as seen in some photos is the Mora model 510.










As you can see. What makes a good bushcraft knife is one that will do everything you need it to do. 

I'll be back with more in a bit. (yes, there is more  )

Chris


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Last part. I'll shut up and leave this open for discussion after this.

When selecting a bushcraft knife keep in mind what you may have to use this knife for.

Drilling - when making a fire board for a bow drill it helps to have a knife that has a point in line with the center of the handle. 

Fire - If you plan on using the spine of your blade a s a scraper for your Ferro rod you'll want to select one with a very square spine with some sharp edges. 

Battoning - in the event that you are caught without a hatchet or axe and you need to split wood, a full tang is always better than a partial tang. I'm not a fan of battoning but it is a technique used by a lot of people. For those that don't know what it is, imagine placing your blade edge down on a log end and pounding it through like a wedge with another piece of wood.

Use - Just like your shotgun, bow, rifle, or any other tool that you use, practice with it. Find out if it's going to hold up to some hard use in the woods.


----------



## Fishalot (Aug 25, 2008)

Rupestris, alot of good information in your posts above and an interesting read. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I learned a few things.


----------



## PaleRider (Oct 24, 2007)

Here's what I carry in the wild:






*Product Information:* 
Lone Wolf Harsey T3 tactical folder was designed to be the ultimate military utility folding knife. Lone Wolf T3 knife was designed to replace a fixed blade knife on combat vests of elite Seal Teams, Special Forces, Rangers, and others requiring a large dependable folding knife. 
Lone Wolf Hasey T3 is constructed with premium components. CPM S-30V Blade Steel for excellent edge retention. Titanium frame & liners for strength. Heat treated stainless steel pivots and phosphor bronze bearings for strength and smooth opening. 
The Harsey handle design is extremely well thought-out and provides finger grooves and notching in key areas to assure a positive grip under any conditions. 
The open support-column style back spacers allow easy cleaning after field use. Dirt, sand and other contaminates can be easily washed out of the handle. The glass filled nylon handle adds to the knife for an almost indestructible hand full of cutting performance. Ballistic nylon sheath is compatble with a MOLLE vest mounting system, and, has gromets and D-ring for a variety of mounting options.

Blade Length: 4.8"
Overall Length: 10.7"
Weight: 8.4 Oz.
Blade Material: CPM-S30V
Liners/Frame: Titanium
Pocket Clip: Stainless Steel
*100% Made in USA* 

Comes with a really cool sheath too.​


----------



## NoWake (Feb 7, 2006)

Great thread!! One thing I would add, Most makers follow somewhat of a standard for hollow grinding based on blade thickness and width. Which basically is determined by the diameter of the contact wheel on their belt grinder. (sander) I have made a few knives that have been technically a hollow grind profile but have been way out of the box of what you could get from the contact wheel from a belt grinder. I'm talking like a 30-60 inch radius hollow grind. By increasing the radius and changing the tangent point on the blade you can get somewhat of a hybrid profile shape. The possibilities are truely endless.

Last year I had the privledge of making a hatchet for Thunderhead on here. He wanted something that he could 'choke up' on and do some finer work with, and also get back and swing for some chopping. I sat down at the drawing board and tried to come up with a design that work well at both ends of the spectrum, and give up as little as possible at either end. First reports were favorable but I haven't heard anything in a while. Maybe he will respond to this thread.

PS. Thunderhead, if it is is junk and or didn't hold up at all please just PM me and save me the public embarassement. lol


----------



## PaleRider (Oct 24, 2007)

There's a member here don't know his name but I have seen some of the knives he's made and they are a work of art, i'll see if I can find his post.


----------



## PaleRider (Oct 24, 2007)

Here ya go: http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268726&highlight=knives


----------



## Enigma (Jan 30, 2006)

I'll use my wwII k-bar


----------



## kristie (Apr 23, 2003)

I use the K-bar my father used in Nam......


----------



## MERGANZER (Aug 24, 2006)

What exactly do you mean when you refer to "bushcraft"

Ganzer


----------



## Non Typical (Feb 17, 2009)

I have a few that I really like, all custom made. The one I use the most is a short blade, 3 1/2" blade with a thick backbone. Made by Chambeline, he is best known for making the sword for Conan. That sword weighed in at a whopping 13#, and to watch Arnold swing it still amazes me. I also have a Hank Kubaiko knife with a very narrow blade, I can put an edge on it that will split a human hair. Jack Harrison out of Flint area made a knife for me using Masterdon (spelling yuk) ivory. The thing I don't get is the ivory is thousands of years old and yet it shrunk after he cut and put the handles on.


----------



## ONEIDABOW1 (Aug 14, 2009)

My take on " Bushcraft" would be purposely walking out into the wilderness and living off the land. Whereas "Survival" you are put into a situation that you weren't exactly ready for. The knife could be the same design for both instances. Some bushcraft knives are more spear shaped for drillng holes and may be made from high end stainless with a sheath with built in accessories like a Firesteel loop, maybe a sharpener or even a sewn-in pouch for other items like fishing kit, compass, paracord. Look up Bark River Knife and Tool's "Northstar". That knife was designed as a bushcraft knife. Another Knife that could be used for bushcraft/survival would be th Bravo-1. High Quality knives made right here in Escanaba,Michigan.


----------



## yooperguy (Mar 20, 2009)

ONEIDABOW1 said:


> My take on " Bushcraft" would be purposely walking out into the wilderness and living off the land. Whereas "Survival" you are put into a situation that you weren't exactly ready for. The knife could be the same design for both instances. Some bushcraft knives are more spear shaped for drillng holes and may be made from high end stainless with a sheath with built in accessories like a Firesteel loop, maybe a sharpener or even a sewn-in pouch for other items like fishing kit, compass, paracord. Look up Bark River Knife and Tool's "Northstar". That knife was designed as a bushcraft knife. Another Knife that could be used for bushcraft/survival would be th Bravo-1. High Quality knives made right here in Escanaba,Michigan.


Yep - I second that. Bushcraft is very much a hobby or a lifestyle for some. Survival is (to me) being prepared for an unplanned, unwanted situation. Bushcraft has many of the same componants as "woodcraft" or woodmanship from a century or more ago. Bushcraft gives grown men and women a reason to build forts, fires, and sleep "under the stars." like when we were kids. It's more than that for some people too as many "bushcrafters" attend meets and gatherings to meet and greet. They also attend outings that are instructed by the likes of Mors Kochanski. Google his name, that of Nessmuk, and Kephart for a wealth info and blogs about bushcraft and woodcraft. It can get addicting if you like this sort of thing.

You will soon be learning about knife and axe makers, fire piston makers and custom handles for your firesteel. Different methods of fire building, shelter making, and food prep soon follow. The next thing you know, you're carving you own spoons out of wood and watching you tube videos of other that do too. 

I have a BRKT Northstar knife, a "Nessmuk" knife and a "Bushcraft" from Koster. Like most others, I have also purchased more than a few of the Mora knive from Sweden. I have a Small Forest Axe from Gransfors Bruks and a Wetterlings Hunters Axe too. Of course I can't use them all at once but it sure is fun to have 'em!:lol:

Like Kephart (and Nessmuk too I think) said, it's even fun to get your "kit" out in the middle of the winter and plan another outing, remember previous outings, and sharpen, oil, and repair your kit and your rucksack.

I like to think of Bushcraft as backpacking before nylon and Gore Tex, before pressurized stoves and titanium cookware.

In closing (sorry so windy) I would say that "Bushcraft" as it is defined today is not as popular in the States as it is in Europe. They are really into it!


----------



## twohats (Oct 1, 2004)

Do to all this talk of bushcraft knives. I went an ordered my first, a Helle Eggen.
What will be next?


----------



## ONEIDABOW1 (Aug 14, 2009)

twohats said:


> Do to all this talk of bushcraft knives. I went an ordered my first, a Helle Eggen.
> What will be next?


 You will order a Bark River Bravo-1. OBEY, COMPLY!


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

ONEIDABOW1 said:


> You will order a Bark River Bravo-1. OBEY, COMPLY!


twohats, If you want to check out the BR Bravo-1 just let me know. I can get mine to you to try out for a couple days. Just drop me a PM.

If O.B.1's (ONEIDABOW1) Jedi mind trick doesn't convince you, then actually using one will :lol: .

Chris


----------



## twohats (Oct 1, 2004)

Rupestris said:


> twohats, If you want to check out the BR Bravo-1 just let me know. I can get mine to you to try out for a couple days. Just drop me a PM.
> 
> If O.B.1's (ONEIDABOW1) Jedi mind trick doesn't convince you, then actually using one will :lol: .
> 
> Chris


 
This site is just to funny at times,LOL. I think that Jedi mind trick just might work sometime in the future. Unless my money tree starts to produce soon. Not likely.

Just started reading about bushcraft after reading about here. Thanks to all for the info. that you have shared here. Always learning something new. It is what makes this site so great. After I get some time in with the knife I have comeing,I may take you up on that offer Chris. The Bravo does sound like a Great knife.


Thanks
Dave


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

twohats said:


> Do to all this talk of bushcraft knives. I went an ordered my first, a Helle Eggen.
> What will be next?


Well? You gonna keep it a secret or do we get to see it? :evil:


----------



## twohats (Oct 1, 2004)

Backordered :sad: .I am going to call on Monday, seeing how all backorders are suposed to be shipped in 7 days and it has now been 14.

PS - thanks for your thread here about Fat Wood. I went out looking and found some. I was amazed with what happened when I put a flame to it. Filled the kitchen with smoke :yikes: That stuff is a torch.


----------



## trout (Jan 17, 2000)

I've got a few knives on me all the time but I lean real heavy nowadays on my mini hatchet by Granfors. Darn thing is handy as all get.
Skinning and cutting or just making a small wood supply for tea.
Razor sharp too and holds a edge long enough inbetween.


----------



## twohats (Oct 1, 2004)

Called on the Knife. Probably another 2 weeks. :sad:


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

twohats said:


> Called on the Knife. Probably another 2 weeks. :sad:


The BRKT Bravo 1 is still available if you need a companion 'til yours arrives.


----------



## rtj1981 (Oct 29, 2005)

Here are a couple that I have made that I guys who are into survival have bought. 



















The steel is O1on all three, the handle material is Micarta on the two and the one with the wooden handle is Desert Ironwood. 


Here is a hidden tang that I made for a guy who wanted one in damascus. The handle is Desert Ironwood again (one of my favorite woods).










With leather sheath


----------



## Rupestris (Aug 25, 2000)

Wow Rob! You do some stelar work!

O1 and Desert Ironwood...  No two materials compliment each other so well.

They look like full flat grinds or a mild convex on the first three and hollow on the damascus. Correct? I can't tell if there's a secondary bevel so I'm leaning toward convex edges too.

Have you ever done a scandi grind?

Chris


----------



## oneeyedclarence (Jan 24, 2003)

Do you guys know of a place on the east side Warren, Sterling Hts, that sharpens knives?


----------



## Flash (Jan 17, 2006)

Not much into bushcraft - personally. My interests have been survival oriented - both wilderness and street. Have a Cold Steel Khukri, long and short (6" and 4") fixed blade Bucks (4" drop point), Spyderco Titanium Police folder, Puma 3" folder, and the two I carry 24/7 is a Swiss Army (black scales) and a 3" Spyderco. There are few tools as indispensible as a knife.


----------

