# trap distance from hole?



## crittergetter (Feb 14, 2005)

Ok, I found a couple of spots that are on my way to work, where I can set a couple of traps for coyote and fox. Twice now, I've had the bait stolen but the trap was not sprung. The first set was more of a walk- thru dirt hole,(4'' holes at each set) because of a retaining wall and brush, so the trap was 8-9" away from the hole, in somewhat of a path. This second set though, it was only about 4-5' away from the hole, with a birch log blocker on one side, a cedar log blocker at the back of the hole, open in front and one side. It appeared to me to have one single coyote track in the sand about 10" in front of the trap. (as if just walking the trail next to were I set the trap, no tracks facing the hole) I swear there also appears to be red squirrel tracks going close to the hole. Any comments?


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

I dont go crazy trying to put the pan a certain distance from the hole (pertains to dirthole sets, only), but roughly 10" for coyote and probably 7" for fox. What I try to do, if possible, is create a situation where the animal has to "parade around" on the trap bed, or at least feel comfortable enough to stick around, re-visit, etc....giving me another chance for the proper step. I will say, I have only had 2 or 3 times, that I can recall, where I had a print in my pattern but it didnt hit the pan. Usually its no prints at all or an animal waiting <knock on wood!!!!>.

In respect to your bait being stolen, it sounds like little varmints to me. I have had locations where mice (or something similar) would steal my bait every night and not fire the trap of leave a track. Try rolling-up a ball of grass and plugging the hole, after you put your bait in. I know other guys who actually partially fill the hole in with dirt over their bait, and create a "vent hole" for the scent to escape.

Just my personal thought on your guiding, from your description. It sounds like a whole lot more than I would do for canines. Instead of logs, try transplanting a clump of grass or just poking a stiff weed stem where you want it. Heck, for snaring, I use a single blade of grass to encourage the animal to lift its head...and it works 

-NC


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## crittergetter (Feb 14, 2005)

Thanks for the help! Maybe I'll try setting a second trap a little further out. I don't own any snares and probably won't get into that until my son is old enough to go with me.


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## mhodnettjr (Jan 30, 2005)

i used to set my traps just as northcountry stated but i have been told that if you put the trap right up to the hole so the pan is 4-5 inches away that you will be much less likely to catch a hound because coyotes and foxes get there feet right up to a hole when they go to the hole, and a hound will keep his feet back a bit. the advice comes from a successful trapper thats been at it a while.


mike


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Mike,

It could very well be that coyote and fox put their feet right up to the hole, but I would bet that is only while they are poking at the hole or digging at it. Looking at the anatomy and stature of a coyote, I dont see how they could "stand" at the lip of the hole and also work it. They'd need a rubber neck.

But you know, I would be the last one to argue with an experienced trapper, because ultimately...its not "theory" that should guide our methods...its actual, in the field observation.

I'm outta here...heading off to deer camp (and a little trapping) 5am tomorrow morning. You guys play nice while I'm gone....I'm looking forward to reading about your catches (and bucks) when I get back  

Good luck, everyone!

-NC


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