# Flooring help/installation



## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

I just wanted to let everyone on here know that I'm available to help you with any flooring questions. I have ten years experience and I've installed every kind of floor you can imagine. I also do my own work on nights and weekends if anyone needs help with their project.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

Thanks for the offer and I do have a flooring question:

I live in a 2nd story condo. I have terrible allergies and I have decided to replace the carpet with wood laminate flooring. I tore up the kitchen floor the other day (Just sticky tiles!) and underneath is what looks like concrete. It is pretty badly cracked to I want to patch it before I lay down the laminate.

How would one go about properly patching this?


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

If you have some pictures it would help. However, without seeing it I would recommend using a primer first on the concrete and spread a quality cement based flooring patch over the area with a flat trowel.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> If you have some pictures it would help. However, without seeing it I would recommend using a primer first on the concrete and spread a quality cement based flooring patch over the area with a flat trowel.
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


I can take a couple of pictures tonight when I am home from work. Thanks!


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## Madduck98 (Apr 16, 2006)

2nd story condo, most likely a Zell floor. Way softer than concrete, designed to have some movement to it. 


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

Even if the subfloor is gypcrete or a similar product, it can still be patched with a latex modified floor patch to make a smooth substrate for laminate flooring. Gypcrete is not a great substrate for direct glue products except carpeting. Most manufacturers of vinyl tile won't honor a warranty over gypcrete because it is a poor substrate. However, laminate flooring with a good quality laminate underlayment would be suitable.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

Here are some pictures. I am thinking about just putting some self leveling product on it and calling it a day.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

Self leveling compound is fine to use. Mapei makes a good product. Just remember you still need to use something to spread it evenly. Self leveling products do not necessarily just level themselves. We have a rake with two adjustable legs that allow you to set how thick the compound is poured. It can be troweled on also. Just be sure to prime the substrate first.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> Self leveling compound is fine to use. Mapei makes a good product. Just remember you still need to use something to spread it evenly. Self leveling products do not necessarily just level themselves. We have a rake with two adjustable legs that allow you to set how thick the compound is poured. It can be troweled on also. Just be sure to prime the substrate first.
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


Ended up using the Mapei patch rather than self leveling the whole thing. So now the floor is patched and ready to install the laminate flooring. We ended up going with a roth & allern 10m that already has SOME padding attached. Since we are in an upper unit and the subfloor is concrete I want to install some type of 2 in 1 vapor/sound barrier as well. Any suggestions? We want to install the floors next weekend.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

The attached pad is already rated for installation over concrete or plywood substrates....so I would purchase a good quality, dense laminate pad. It should some what look like carpet padding, except thinner and more dense. You do not want the cheap thin foam padding with the attached plastic.

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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

I just checked Lowes.com and they have 1/8 inch laminate underlayment for around $50 per 100 square foot roll

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> I just checked Lowes.com and they have 1/8 inch laminate underlayment for around $50 per 100 square foot roll
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


Thank you for the reply. Dont i need a vapor barrier at all? how does that preattached padding work as a vapor barrier when there are cracks all over it?

What about something like this?

http://www.bestlaminate.net/product..._Flooring_Underlayment_100sf_roll-889-65.html


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

The product I referred to at lowes is also a vapor barrier product but either product would be fine.

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## 2Lungs (Mar 18, 2008)

firlayer, I have peel&stick tiles on 1/4" underlayment I installed app. 25+ years ago. A few of the tiles have started to lift at the edges so I need/want to replace all tiles. I've lifted acouple tiles and there is a sticky residue left on underlayment (The tiles stick back down and stay down). Iam not wanting to remove underlayment and was wondering if I could lay new tiles on this sticky surface? Also was thinking of going with vinyl sheet gued over this sticky residue if possible. Should I reprime before installing new or does the underlayment need to be replaced? Thanks


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

I would recommend peeling all the old tile, then emboss the underlayment with a latex modified cement based floor patch. Then lay your new sheet vinyl over.

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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

By emboss, I mean skim coat with the floor patch in case I was unclear.

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## 2Lungs (Mar 18, 2008)

What skim coat would you recommend? Thanks again


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

Mapei makes a good product and they sell it at lowes

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## orrick (Jun 1, 2013)

I have one question about my home floor. Now its a having marble tile on it and now I want to change it to wood flooring. Kindly guide me which floor is good marble or wood.?


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

It is not necessarily a matter of which floor is better. I would need to know what room the floor covering is in and what your expectations for the flooring are. Marble is a decent hard surface floor as long as it is properly installed. Marble requires full coverage of mortar because it is one of the softer stones in floor covering. Hardwood is also a good option for hard surface flooring, but I don't recommend installing it in a damp area such as a bathroom. If you can provide more information as to what you need answered I would be happy to help.

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## orrick (Jun 1, 2013)

I have been planning to change in the living room not bathroom. Marble is a good surface floor but I need change because I am getting bored to see the same floor. should I replace with other type of marble floor or wood kindly suggest me.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

In a living room, a hardwood floor is much more common than marble in Michigan. Hardwood is always a nice choice for resale in today's market also. Both floor will hold up well to traffic, therefore it is mostly a matter of personal preference.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

Just an quick update on my "project", we pulled up all the old carpet, tack, molding, etc. The cracked floors were patched (we still need to level a point in the hallway where there is a significant low spot). Now we have started laying down the laminate. 

We went with this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_246517-19871-AR515_4294856495__?productId=4505968&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

Thinks are going along pretty nicely. Our condo is set up where there is a middle "column" and all of the rooms surround it. So essentially if you walk in a circle around it you would walk through the kitchen, dining room, living room, & hallway. We are putting the laminate in all of these areas. My concern is as we work our way around (Started in the dining room, then in to kitchen) into the living room and then cirlce back to meet up the kitchen that the planks will not come together perfectly. The solution I have is to plan for a threshold between the Kitchen and hallway if they planks do not match...OR just put a small piece in the walkway where the Kitchen and Hallway meet. What do you think?










Current Progress (Please don't mind the mess, hard to keep things clean when you are doing this type of project in a small space!)


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

If you look at your instructions with the laminate, it should tell you how far you can install the flooring without an expansion. Generally it will be about 15 feet or so. You will most likely need a t transition in a couple spots by looking at your floor plan. I have been able to get away with 25 feet on occasion, but make sure you have expansion planned somewhere in your installation for movement.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> If you look at your instructions with the laminate, it should tell you how far you can install the flooring without an expansion. Generally it will be about 15 feet or so. You will most likely need a t transition in a couple spots by looking at your floor plan. I have been able to get away with 25 feet on occasion, but make sure you have expansion planned somewhere in your installation for movement.
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


The instructions say 40 feet until an expansion joint is needed...luckily the longest span should be no more than 35 feet so I dont *need* one per the instructions. My main concern is when we come back up into the hallway and meet the flooring in the kitchen. I dont know if we will be lucky enough to have the flooring meet up to fit exactly.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

That is really good for distance until expansion is needed. I would say that you will have to wait to see if it comes back together. That is one of the biggest challenges that those of us in the trade face.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> That is really good for distance until expansion is needed. I would say that you will have to wait to see if it comes back together. That is one of the biggest challenges that those of us in the trade face.
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


I agree, i was expecting to have to cut it in half and put a threshold/expansion in the spot where the dining and living rooms come together and then one where the kitchen and hallway come together. We will see how it comes together over time i suppose. We figure we would rather have the "imperfection" occur in the small spot where the hallway comes into the kitchen. This is because it is darker in that area and should be less noticeable. Ill update this thread as things come along.

Thank you again for the input.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

No problem....I'm happy to help

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> No problem....I'm happy to help
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


I will say that this type of work, even though it seem's "Easy", is a lot of work. It takes planning and there is a lot of getting up/down to install the floor/make cuts/etc. I am VERY sore after working 20+ hours this weekend. 

I bet i would be in great shape if i did this for a living, BUT it would take a toll on my body over time.


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

It does take a toll on the body.....its great when you have to get up and down and go up and down stairs. Oh well, its a way to make a living.

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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

flrlayer said:


> It does take a toll on the body.....its great when you have to get up and down and go up and down stairs. Oh well, its a way to make a living.
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


Aye, our condo is upstairs, and i have the chop saw on the balcony (but on the floor so i have to get up/down to make cuts). I also borrowed a table saw but its in the basement and that is 2 flights of stairs each way to make 1 cut!.


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## guito13 (Nov 30, 2004)

Its me again! 

Floor is going good, obviously we are taking our time but we both work and have kids and I am in school so time is limited. All that being said we are at a point where we are installing in the hallway that has 3 doors. One on the left, (bedroom) one straight at the end (bedroom), and one on the right (bathroom). 

The bedrooms are going to be straight forward as I will just put in a wood threshold right under the doors. The bathroom is going to be more of a challenge as it has a marble slab under the door as the "threshold". It is pretty wide and if I take it out, I would have to tile a few pieces in the bathroom and then put in a thinner wood threshold. I dont want to do this for many reasons (off color tile, may not find matching tile, etc.) so I want to keep the marble there. I will need to just butt up against it flush with the laminate, and if there is a small space, find some like-colored caulk to fill it with. Any tips/tricks/advice?

If you need a picture I can take one tonight.

Thanks!


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## flrlayer (Feb 14, 2013)

Generally we would but to the threshold and caulk it.....otherwise sometimes we will make a custom wood transition piece if needed...


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