# Spraying the fruit tree's/ this years crop?



## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

Seems this will be an annual task that you just have to do in order to keep the tree's healthy and the fruit nice? I have developed the orange dots on the leaves on 5-6 apple tree's already this year, so I sprayed already. I was wishing it wouldn't be an every year task, but I must be wrong. 

I think the colder winter we had also put the hurt on my peach tree's this year. I had a bumper crop last year, but this year is really bad, some branches flat out died at the tips, no blooms on 2 tree's at all, and just Leaves, except at the tips, which are brittle dead. 

Cherry tree has more cherries this year than last, but that winter really seemed to knock everything down a bit. Anyone else experiencing the same?

I'm in Auburn Hills FWIW.


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## PerchPatrol (Mar 31, 2006)

My cherry trees have already been raided by the birds.. I think it was an "off" year anyways. I usually just let the birds get them. I would have to put a net around the tree to get any cherries & I'm not williing to do that much work!

My apple trees are looking good - not too much of a fall off from last years bumper crop.

Yes I believe you have to spray them every year. I havent noticed any orange dots or anything, but I now always spray. Fungicide in spring & reguilar spray every 10 days or so, after blossoms are done.

So far so good.

I never did anything with my 4 apple trees before last year. Started spraying & hit the mother lode (good year for apples all around). Ended up with 55 qts applesauce & countless pies. 

Keeping up with the routine this year, so far so good.


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

Perch patrol,
My cherries are on a small tree -5-6 feet, and only a 1/2 dozen cherries this year, it got smashed the first year I didn't fence it off-deer. 
The fungicide spray was all I had been using 2 times a year, what other spray are you using? Maybe for bugs or something? Trying to learn the care system so I get good fruit, all my trees are young , all planted in the last 3-4 years.


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## PerchPatrol (Mar 31, 2006)

I went to the local tree place & asked them. I spray with "fruit tree spray" (thats really what is is called) and yes it is for bugs. I think this was the one that helped me the most.

I use the fruit tree spray about every 10 days, starting when the blossoms have fallen off. I followed this routine last year for the 1st time & got loads of good apples - no bugs! 

I also put the copper sulfate fungicide on a couple of times before blossom.

I did have some small scaly spots on some apples, but they were no bother.
I have tried in previous years, but the lousy sprayer I had drove me nuts. Last year I bought a good - backpack-style sprayer (a stihl FWIW). It took my spraying time down by 75% minimum.

So far the results look promising again this year - not as many apples, but still lots. They all used to be gnarly & full of bugs - now, none of that. 

I guess I will see for sure when the season ends, but so far so good.


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Greenbush future said:


> Perch patrol,
> My cherries are on a small tree -5-6 feet, and only a 1/2 dozen cherries this year, it got smashed the first year I didn't fence it off-deer.
> The fungicide spray was all I had been using 2 times a year, what other spray are you using? Maybe for bugs or something? Trying to learn the care system so I get good fruit, all my trees are young , all planted in the last 3-4 years.


Rochester elevator should have the spray you need.


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

WALLEYE MIKE said:


> Rochester elevator should have the spray you need.


Thanks Mike, The fungicide helped me keep the tree's from developing the orange rust on the leaves. I'm guessing 7 of 9 fruit tree's had the rust(orange) dots this year, and it was just starting. I sprayed all of them regardless. on Sunday. 
I was kind of hoping I didn't need to spray the fungicide every year, but this is two in a row I have had too.


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## 1mainiac (Nov 23, 2008)

My spray program was every year all year pretty much and never the same other than spring fungicide. Also we ran a fungicide in nearly every spray year round depending on the weather. Put yellow sticky trap in the trees and see what they catch try and time your sprays for effect not date and time. Study degree days and use it plus rainfall and humidity to plan your sprays. Everything I used requires a license to purchase and apply. We used Dawn dish soap by the barrel it is a great surfactant. Copper sulfur and liquid fertilizer in most every load of spray. Fertilize heavy in spring and early summer but none after July. Sevin and Dipel are great Malathion also can help but you have to match the hatch so sticky cards tell you when and what the problems are. Bee careful not to kill your bees and predators they are your friends so night spraying is best. 
http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource000503_rep525.pdf


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## Josh R (Dec 4, 2010)

PerchPatrol said:


> Last year I bought a good - backpack-style sprayer (a stihl FWIW). It took my spraying time down by 75% minimum.


Awesome sprayer. I bought 1 last spring. I think it's a sg20? I think I paid $100 for it on sale at the local Ace Hardware. Really nice heavy duty metal pump on it.
Josh

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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

1mainiac said:


> My spray program was every year all year pretty much and never the same other than spring fungicide. Also we ran a fungicide in nearly every spray year round depending on the weather. Put yellow sticky trap in the trees and see what they catch try and time your sprays for effect not date and time. Study degree days and use it plus rainfall and humidity to plan your sprays. Everything I used requires a license to purchase and apply. We used Dawn dish soap by the barrel it is a great surfactant. Copper sulfur and liquid fertilizer in most every load of spray. Fertilize heavy in spring and early summer but none after July. Sevin and Dipel are great Malathion also can help but you have to match the hatch so sticky cards tell you when and what the problems are. Bee careful not to kill your bees and predators they are your friends so night spraying is best.
> http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource000503_rep525.pdf


1Maniac,
The write up you enclosed is exactly what I needed to understand what I should be doing. Are you operating an orchard? you seem very well versed in the care of fruit tree's. I appreciate your recommendations and data sheet. I printed it off and have it taped to the wall next to all my spray products. 
I'm gonna need a new sprayer, the plastic pump up junk I have been using will not eventually work as these fruit tree's mature. Is the back pack type that Josh mentioned seem like a good investment? what do you recomend for me, I have 12 fruit trees. These cheap plastic multi-purpose one's are junk, even when I rinse well, they clog up, and plastic parts break often. I'll keep an eye out for a good back pack style one, and I think staying away from the cheap plastic stuff is wise too. Thanks again everyone.


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## PerchPatrol (Mar 31, 2006)

Greenbush future said:


> 1Maniac,
> The write up you enclosed is exactly what I needed to understand what I should be doing. Are you operating an orchard? you seem very well versed in the care of fruit tree's. I appreciate your recommendations and data sheet. I printed it off and have it taped to the wall next to all my spray products.
> I'm gonna need a new sprayer, the plastic pump up junk I have been using will not eventually work as these fruit tree's mature. Is the back pack type that Josh mentioned seem like a good investment? what do you recomend for me, I have 12 fruit trees. These cheap plastic multi-purpose one's are junk, even when I rinse well, they clog up, and plastic parts break often. I'll keep an eye out for a good back pack style one, and I think staying away from the cheap plastic stuff is wise too. Thanks again everyone.


I can recommend the Stihl backpack style sprayer. I think I paid around $115 for it - well worth it. Once you use it you will wonder why it took you so long to get it... Note: it is the hand pump model (the SG-20).
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/sprayers/backpack-sprayer/

Of course I only have 8 trees and am VERY amateur apple-grower.


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## Critter55 (Oct 24, 2013)

Hi I have a nectarine tree that I bought from the county last year I planted it ASAP and this year it leafed out but then about two months ago all leafs fell off and it looks like it is dead should I wait to cut it down tell next year or is it still alive please help thanks.
Critter


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## wintrrun (Jun 11, 2008)

Critter55 said:


> Hi I have a nectarine tree that I bought from the county last year I planted it ASAP and this year it leafed out but then about two months ago all leafs fell off and it looks like it is dead should I wait to cut it down tell next year or is it still alive please help thanks.
> Critter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


Did you ever try to figure out why the tree dropped its leaves?

Was your soil ph neutral where you planted it?
Was it a grafted tree?
Did it come from the county in a pot?
How about getting enough water?

Not going to hurt anything to let it go til next spring at which time you can see where it's going.


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## tangleknot (Oct 8, 2001)

Critter55 said:


> Hi I have a nectarine tree that I bought from the county last year I planted it ASAP and this year it leafed out but then about two months ago all leafs fell off and it looks like it is dead should I wait to cut it down tell next year or is it still alive please help thanks.
> Critter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


It is most likely winter damage from the brutal low temps we had this year. I'd wait until next year to see if it rebounds but it may not.

We have 188 acres of fruit trees in SE Michigan where I work. Out of the 40+acres of peaches, we have 2 peaches. We have lost an entire block of older Red Haven trees. They look awful. They hardly leafed out and much of what did, dropped. We only had 5% of your normal cherry crop. Apples can handle the frigid temps the best and we have a decent apple crop which we are so grateful for. 

It's been an interesting 3 seasons in a row.....2012~going into bloom 4-5 weeks early followed by frost. 2013~ bumper crop than nailed by hail. 2014~buds froze. I am sure hoping that next year we have a normal growing season! I'm not sure if there is such a thing anymore. 

MSU Extension is an excellent resource for the backyard growers.

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/topic/info/agriculture

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/topic/info/lawn_garden


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

None of my tree's are fruiting this year, and we can't decide why this is occurring. We don't recall any frost after they budded out in spring, and none of our neighbors are seeing fruit either. Apples, peaches, cherries are all empty. We have good growth, just no fruit.


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