# Drywall Question



## outfishin_ (Jul 28, 2004)

I just re-drywalled my ceiling an 3 walls of my living room. Forgive me if this doesnt make any sense.... I notice on the ceiling panels where they meet the walls didn't have compressed edges. The walls where they meet the ceiling have compressed edges....Is there anything special i need to do when taping and mudding these joints ? 

Thanks Ben


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## Rumajz (Dec 29, 2005)

outfishin_ said:


> ...Is there anything special i need .....
> 
> Thanks Ben




Nope, just the skill. 

Those butt joints suck. Unless you build them up at least 12" on each side and feather them out really nice, they'll show.


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## jackpine savage (Sep 6, 2006)

outfishin_ said:


> I just re-drywalled my ceiling an 3 walls of my living room. Forgive me if this doesnt make any sense.... I notice on the ceiling panels where they meet the walls didn't have compressed edges. The walls where they meet the ceiling have compressed edges....Is there anything special i need to do when taping and mudding these joints ?
> 
> Thanks Ben


I use a 12 inch knife on all ceiling and corners to get a wide tapper-just try to keep the inside deep enough in mud to leave a little to sand (or I like to use a wet sponge before it dries completely-takes a little practice ) with out showing tape,if you use fiber glass tape it's not so much of a problem just go a little heavier on the dry wall primer.
hope this helps.


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## JWheeler (Jun 1, 2006)

When you say "compressed edges" do you mean that the edges are tapered?


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## outfishin_ (Jul 28, 2004)

JWheeler said:


> When you say "compressed edges" do you mean that the edges are tapered?


 
Yes....


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## Big Reds (Oct 14, 2007)

Try starting with a corner knife to mud in tape, then one coat wth a five inch knife, then one coat with ten inch knife. This works well for me and sand for a final finish. Good luck and wear a mask!


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

did my first drywall project this year too, all I can say is I really know where one of my weaknesses is.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

When you drywall walls and a ceiling, do the ceiling first and run the drywall all the way to the studs so the wall pieces butt up against it. It makes for a lot stronger and crack resistant joint. 


Then you can start the five days of mudding, sanding, mudding, sanding, mudding...... till you finally give up and say "Thats good enough." :lol:


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## SPITFIRE (Feb 10, 2005)

ESOX said:


> When you drywall walls and a ceiling, do the ceiling first and run the drywall all the way to the studs so the wall pieces butt up against it. It makes for a lot stronger and crack resistant joint.
> 
> 
> Then you can start the five days of mudding, sanding, mudding, sanding, mudding...... till you finally give up and say "Thats good enough." :lol:


LOL Esox exactly!


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## Rumajz (Dec 29, 2005)

ESOX said:


> Then you can start the five days of mudding, sanding, mudding, sanding, mudding...... till you finally give up and say "Thats good enough." :lol:



:lol::lol::lol: How true. 

That is one sub I never even consider trying to save money on. I'll do anything but finish drywall.


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## JWheeler (Jun 1, 2006)

Yup, should be fairly easy. The tapered edge of the wall that meets the ceiling is not big deal. Now you just have to fill in that taper with more mud, you can achieve this with a bigger knife, I have done a lot of this, worst thing that can happen is you sand to much and you could end up with a dip in an area. Get a good pole sander to do most of your sanding, then follow up with a sponge for the corners and final. Don't sweat the small stuff, and take your time with it and it will look great.


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## tedshunter (Dec 27, 2004)

Had I known I would of came over and gave you a crash coarse in drywall this past weekend. I was up in your neck of the woods doing some deer hunting.(NO DEER YET). If you run into any problems shoot me a p.m and maybe I can help you.While filling in any corners while you spread the mud keep your knife slightly angled so you leave more mud in the corner than the out side and be sure to wipe your edges of your joints so you won't have to do as much sanding.Good luck.....


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## mattl (Aug 6, 2005)

I don't reccomend sanding between coats...after each coat dries scrape the ridges down but don't sand till you're done mudding. #1 every time you sand you remove mud. #2 you will get better adhesion without the sanding dust. 3 coats minimum.


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## eddiejohn4 (Dec 23, 2005)

Here's a tip. if you want to sand very little, just water mop the edges with a plaster mop or a smooth sponge. this will save you much sanding and mess. I started as a wet plaster.

Always thin the mudd out for the setting of the tape. a bango is a useful tool. use a heavy drill and paddle to mix mudd with some water.

The butt edges are easier if you use a 12 inch knife on each side of the tape and then fill the center after allowing drying time then repeat.

Always use the same side of the knife as it breaks the knife in. the knife develops a slight curve. when used properly this will prevent one from removing mudd from the middle . always fill outside corners fully, avoid removing mudd and check that they are indeed full with edge of knife. I use durabond 45 to fill corner beads as that gives a hard fill that is not easily cracked. finish with topping joint compound.


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