# Best , durable, long lasting Chainsaw chain



## kisherfisher (Apr 6, 2008)

Looking for recommendations on the best chainsaw blade for a Stihl 280 , 16 inch bar. I have a few, but none seem to stay sharp for at least a days work. Looking for some direction please. I have several made from Stihl, but durability is less than a day.


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## mjh4 (Feb 2, 2018)

I use Oregon chains on my Stihl chain saws.


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## Martin Looker (Jul 16, 2015)

If you want a chain that will cut for days go to Baileys online. They sell a chain with carbide teeth.


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## bradym54 (Oct 8, 2008)

A few swipes with a file every tank of gas will keep it sharp. Keep it out of the dirt. Going all day without sharpening will lead to a trashed chain no matter what brand.


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## usedtobeayooper (Feb 13, 2008)

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^


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## smith34 (Feb 2, 2009)

Stihl chain is the most durable we’ve found. We even run it on our husky’s at work. Not cutting thru dirt is huge for keeping an edge. As mentioned, a filing at each tankful is best because no normal chain will still have the same edge at the end of the day compared to the start, even in clean wood if you’re running 5-6 tanks thru it. Running a dull chain kills bars too, and that gets pricy! As mentioned, if you’re not willing to file to keep an edge, go carbide. An alternate route would be to switch to a semi-chisel chain because they will tolerate a dirty environment a little better (even though you give up a little cutting speed vs a full chisel, but most people can’t see the difference)


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## B.Jarvinen (Jul 12, 2014)

Another note to learn to sharpen them yourself. It is nice to learn indoors with the bar in a vise and a bright light shining on the teeth, but ultimately you will need to be able to do it on the tailgate of a pickup (which is actually an easy place to do it as you can stand with your feet under the tailgate quite easily). 

I sometimes run Stihl chain on my Husqvarna saws; just depends where I am at when I need a new one. Stihl chain is excellent. Husqy recently moved into manufacturing it themselves rather than buying it from Oregon. 

If you are cutting dirty wood such as logging slash or anything that has been in contact with the ground, take 3 pre-sharpened chains out with you and simply change the chain at every refuel. 

Also learn to file the “rakers” (technically these are correctly called the depth gauges). The amount of space between the top of the depth gauge and the horizontal section of the cutting tooth controls the thickness of each small piece of wood cut by each tooth. Ignore the depth gauges and eventually the saw can only create saw dust. As you sharpen the teeth, that horizontal part of the tooth becomes lower and lower, so the depth gauges have to be lowered to match, after about 3-4 sharpenings. 

All of this in turn affects the efficiency of the saw. Cutting with dull chain all the time will lower the service life of the motor. 

You can do all your own sharpening with a pair of files and a cheap depth gauge plate for a $10 investment and some practice with them and save yourself a lot of money over the years following. 

Also worth doing is flipping the bar over once a week and filing off the side of the rails some. Extends the life of the bar and chain and everything else.


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## ratherboutside (Mar 19, 2010)

The loggers and land clearing guys I work with sharpen every time the chain doesn't cut like they want. This week it was after each tree because they were along a road. Between the dust and fence in the trees they dulled fast

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## anagranite (Oct 23, 2010)

This is a great video to explain chainsaw chains. Project Farm does very thorough testing and seems unbiased. 

In case you don't watch the video I think the Stihl blade won overall but the Oregon was close 2nd and was a LOT cheaper.


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## FullQuiver (May 2, 2006)

I only run Oregon. Best value in chains. Period. Fast cutting and keep their cutting edge very well.. 

I've used them for many years. Even when I cut trees for my living.... Stihl chains may be slightly better but the difference is negligible, at least IMHO..


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## Forest Meister (Mar 7, 2010)

The chainsaw business provided the primary livelihood for my parents and our family and I spent a lot of time in the "saw shop" while growing up. While In HS I worked peeling pulpwood for one of the larger loggers in the area too and did a wee bit of pulp and post cutting on my own back in the day. My whole working life I have been around wood cutting too. What I learned about chains over that time was:

Most importantly, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Professional loggers might try a cheap chain ONCE but went back to top of the line chains. My dad handled more economical chains for the infrequent user (weekend warrior was a term not yet coined) but it was not a top seller.
Professional loggers had at minimum of three chains on site. They were not all new chains but they were all functional chains. I think Murphy's Law was coined by loggers!
Professional loggers ALWAYS touched up chains every time they filled up with gas and oil. One or two strokes on each tooth was all that was necessary unless there was an "au sh*t". Some of the reason for a tough up might have been to give the cutter a bit more rest but real men would never admit it. A chain was rotated out if anything was actually hit. It takes less time to change a chain than file out a stone chip.
Ever so often loggers would bring all their chains in the shop and have them professionally "trued up" on the chain grinder. Regular filing in the field in crucial but things get out of whack over time and the grinder would give the exact same edge to every tooth and easily take out stone nicks. Rakers were checked at that time too and lowered as necessary. Back in the day guide bars had to be trued up too. Roller nose bars have pretty much made that unnecessary.
Every chain stretches as it wares. Many loggers would soak new chains in oil for a day or so claiming that it slowed the stretching process. That was a point of "discussion" when loggers met in the shop for repairs but whether it does or doesn't, it can't hurt. FM


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## Cpt.Chaos (May 28, 2006)

Oregon

Keep them clean, adjusted, oiled and sharp.....they’ll last a long time


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## kisherfisher (Apr 6, 2008)

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated and informative !


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