# studding a track



## mkroulik (Jan 14, 2003)

I recently bought a 1995 polaris Indy trail deluxe 2-up. It only has 1250 miles on it and is in near mint condition. I bought it for ice fishing, and I was curious what studs I should use, how many, how much $$ I should expect to spend and how much time it would take me to stud the track. I don't do much if any trail riding, but I am looking for the added traction when there isn't much snow on the ice. Also are there any must have tools or accessories for a first time sled owner.

Thanks

Mike


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## Gilbey (Oct 26, 2005)

I think cost with stud and backer was around 2 bucks per one, but that's just a guess, and this was several years ago. You can also get lower weight by gonig to some form of poly, but haven't used these..........

Make sure to buy a drill bit made for studding a track. This will not only make cutting easier, but the friction on the outside seals your hole and melts it. You want that bit good and hot. Cuts better too. And you don't want threads being able to peel away from the track.

I believe with that sled you have a 121" track. I would recommend 96 studs for what you want, and that wouldn't over do it. Woody's Gold Diggers have always been good studs. They also make a hole template for you making it easy to know where to drill.

Get a paint marker. Go through your track first using your template, I usually used a silver one. Mark all holes. I also used a pneumatic drill and impact for this job saving lot's of time. After marking, drill all holes. Impact wrench studs on. Studs are a tight fit, so until you get a rythm down, well.........it's a slow job. I also used a long handled pry to help studs slip in from back side.

First time doing the job? It's not gonna be super quick, I'd say at least a couple of hours give or take.


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## Gilbey (Oct 26, 2005)

And when it comes to tools, well, it's all gonna depend on how you ride, how far, trails, ice fishing etc.

But you'll learn something new every year on...."oh, I should make sure to bring that along".

One of my mottos with riding is: If it CAN happen, it's GONNA happen. 

But....I also used to ride 4000 miles per year average, not it's just 2.


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## buckslayerII (Jan 4, 2005)

Here's my 2 cents - why stud it? How often do you go out ice-fishing when the ice is totally smooth? Up north here, that's not too often. Maybe once at first freeze and after a rain in the spring. When it is slick, just take it slow. If you're only using the sled for ice-fishing, probably not worth your time, money and effort. If you would definitely feel safer with them, then 48 down the middle should do you fine.

Must haves for ice-fishing are minimal: spare belt, although you'll probably never use it and a set of spare plugs.


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## Cedar Swamp (Oct 8, 2004)

buckslayerII said:


> Here's my 2 cents ... 48 down the middle should do you fine.




Never stud the outside of the track, only asking for problems when ya do.


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## InTheRiver (May 15, 2006)

I'd stud it. 96 for safety DOWN THE MIDDLE ONLY. Check ebay for current prices. Any 1" or 0.920 stud will work on your machine I wouldn't go any bigger, your track lug height "stock" is 0.820 you want 1/4" of penetration. A stud with a carbide tip will last longer but costs more. 

Here are some pretty good ones even come with nyloc nuts and backers. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-W....c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318


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## SNAPPY (Feb 13, 2004)

STUD IT!!! Its not just about going forward, its nice to be able to stop quick on ice too! 96 down the middle is what I did to mine and was the best mod I ever done to a fishing machine. You may not always need studs but you will be very happy when you do! Above info on woodys gold-diggers is spot on. Thats what I put on mine and took probably a total of 3 hrs but I took my time and had a few beverages during the installation. I still have the template and track drill for 7mm studs so if you need any assistance I could give you a hand or loan you the tools to git-r-done. Correct stud length is critical. Look at woodys website. They have a diagram of how to measure your track for correct stud length. I got my studs from ebay w/backers(steel) and nuts for dirt cheap. If its just for ice fishing then just about any carbide tipped stud will do. Just make sure you get the steel backers since weight is not an issue. PM me if you need anymore info.


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## SalmonBum (Feb 28, 2001)

If its a liquid cooled model, be careful not to overheat. If your on the ice and there is no snow, it won't take long for the sled to get HOT, even with studs. I won't go on the ice with my machinces if there is no snow. Best to have a fan cooled if you ride on smooth ice. Might want to get a set of ice scratchers.


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## McDonaldoutdoors (Apr 10, 2006)

MKroulik,

STUDS, I would go with 96 studs if you just want ice control. That is kinda the minimum for your tack size just because its an even number for studs per lug . Most are 122in polaris might be 121 shoulnt madder. But I still wouldnt go less than that. The more studs you have really makes a difference. If you want traction on the ice for stopping at your fishing spot then min. is fine. Then go with 96. Do not go over 120, because that would be a waste. But if your gonna shot across the lake at top speed, and you want to race the guy next to you, well then thats different. The more studs you have, the better. 

For instances, a Ski-Doo 380 with 144 studs can smoke a Rev 800 with 144 studs of the line and have fun looking back at him for a few seconds before the fly by.

I bought an off brand stud and backer from Lake Side, in Mecosta for a buck a piece. 

OK, time; It takes about one and a half minutes per stud if you have the track in the air. Its really easy. Just use a come a long or a wench to lift the acc end of the sled.


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## mkroulik (Jan 14, 2003)

I reall appreciate the advice guys. As far as when there is no snow, I do have an old quad that I will use at that time. The snowmobile is just way more fun, and I do like the added safety of being able to stop quickly.

Thanks again.

Mike


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## Old Coot (Oct 25, 2007)

With the 2-up you have a long track. That is plenty of traction. The only reason for studs is better control when running the trails at high speeds (mostly for braking). On a lake, a track with no studs is a lot more fun IMO.


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