# 3 day Bahamas trip



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Two weeks ago, after debating it endlessly, the late March cold compelled me to book a last minute trip to Long Island, Bahamas. I'd been there once before. If all you want to do is enjoy the sun, beach and chase the very elusive bonefish, Long Island is a good choice. Once I became immersed in fly fishing, catching one on a fly became a major fishing dream. Chicago to Atlanta. Atlanta to Nassau/ Then over the ocean. I'd be staying in the least expensive room at www.longislandbreeze.com right in the middle of the 80 mile long, 1.5 or so mile wide (at most parts) island. Arranged a car/ My rental car is owned by Presley Pinders. He meets me at the airport. I am going to TRY and self guide and asked him for as close to a Jeep as he has for the hacked out of limestone roads which lead to the bonefish flats.

A pasty white guy wearing a Simms hat leads Presley to deduce that I am there to fish. While we wait for my bag he gives me leads on a half dozen "100 fish spots". He is also a guide with a flats boat. "Mr. Paul - I am top guide. $350 all day" he offers. I am still stuck to the idea that I can find fish on my own and half heartedly say "If I don't catch a fish, we'll fish all day on my last day." He gives me a few spots to try.


Half hearted, hedge bet. I know I'll catch a bunch of fish, right???


We walk to the "Jeep" which turns out to be a Mitsubishi something that is the shape of a Yugo with a bit more ground clearance. 130,000 kilometers. Salt soaked. The suspension of a Radio Flyer sled.

Arrive at the hotel. It sits on a small hill at the middle of a beautiful bay. Pool overlooking the Caribbean. A bar. Perfect. 


I go back to my very clean and comfortable room. There's even a new inside AC unit. It's not yet stifling hot so I treat myself to another rare luxury - falling asleep with the windows open. It had been 36 hours since my head was on a real pillow. 9 pm light out. 6 am wake up. Head out to fish/


Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out the spots that Presley pointed out. So I drove past goats and fields. 9 am. Lots of driving. No bonefish flats. UGH. I pulled out onto the main road. I looked at my map, found the most likely looking tidal creek nowhere near any of Presley's spots and resumed the odyssey.


The tidal creek looked promising. It was just in from the beach and as I pulled up to park, I snapped this photo of a typical Long island beach, not even one of its famous beaches:












Most of the entire leeward side of the island looks just like that. Most of the beaches are public access with places to park.


So...the purpose of the trip - to catch a bonefish. I just needed to find a feeding lane, be there on a rising or falling tide and cast about 45 feet in a 20 mph wind to a fish that spends its existence trying to avoid being eaten by sharks and barracuda. 


No problem...right?


Well, the first creek was attempted on what was definitely a rising tide. The water wasn't deep at the edges, where there were edges. A lot of the sand in the shallows was the dreaded thigh deep muck. Not the "hard packed" flats.


First fish I saw was a four foot long barracuda sunning itself in the shallows. I thought "that fish will never eat a gotcha", cast the gotcha. There was a flash but no resistance on the line. There also no longer was a gotcha fly on the line. Reminder - unless throwing a steel leader, leave the barracuda alone.


Waded upstream against the tide. Well, started wading. Then found the ankle deep sand. Then the knee deep. Then the thigh deep sand. Dragged myself out. Cursed. Spot number 1 abandoned after 45 minutes. The good news is that there were bonefish tailing. The bad news is that I didn't want to disappear into the sand/muck trying to reach them. 


It was not yet 11 am. Lots and lots of time. But half a day down and slow progress


I needed to eat. The island's most famous restaurant is Max's Conch Stand. It's a shack just off the road with a bar, a dozen easy to make menu items and his specialty - conch salad. Conch is the giant saltwater snail that is like the chicken mcnuggets of the Bahamas - a food staple.


Conch salad is basically chopped onions, peppers, a little bit of a hot pepper, diced tomato, the conch plucked out of its shell marinated in the juice of 1 squeezed lime. A little salt, pepper and seasoning. It's made right in front of you and, if you love seafood, is delicious.


I also had jerked chicken. Also excellent.


Max is a pretty quiet guy and likely has gotten tired of explaining to tourists exactly what a conch is. I was walking away after paying my bill. I said "I haven't been here for 6 years and that was just as good as I remember. Take care." 


He looked up, smiled, saw my clothes and asked "where you fishing?" I told him where I'd tried. He said "I catch them on live shrimp just at the end of the road. Turn left 100 yards south. There's a channel by the old steel boat. Try there."


And so I did.


The old steel boat was easy to find. 












It was on the inside of a beautiful bay that had a few flats with easy feeding lanes.


What it also had was an endless supply of stingrays. Not the nice, big, easy to see rays. The just bigger than a saucer sized rays which still could jab a toxic barb 3 inches into flesh.


It was like trying to play Twister, trying to avoid the rays. There was hope. Bonefish were 60 yards away chasing bait. Just as soon as they'd expose themselves in a flash, they'd be gone before a cast could be attempted.


I found some slack water. There was a big 5 lb plus fish 50 yards away. I slowly walked into a mangrove flanked opening to try and get closer. Then the bottom fell out from under me. This wasn't sand - just pure muck. Butt cheek deep muck. Incapacitating muck. Trouble, trouble, trouble if I didn't get out. 


Heart racing, I flailed back from whence I came. Miraculously, my knees didn't sink in. I knee crawled back out of what seemed like could have swallowed all 250 lbs of me in a flash.


Flats boots, flats pants and half my shirt caked in salty muck. I walked over to the hard packed beach, threw my rod on the beach and swam out to uncake myself.


Finished with my saltwater bath, I picked up my rod. I was hunched over panting from the near death experience. Just then I heard someone yell "Hello!" 


From the nearby boat launch, a jolly and completely tanned over gentleman was running towards me. From the *** moment of nearly being swallowed into the muck from the *** moment of wondering why a man would be sprinting toward me.


"Etlo, aym Eward. Ay take yous on de gud flahts tumara, eh? One hundred and twenty dollars." 


"Are you offering to take me fishing for $120, tomorrow?"


"ya!" as his eyes lit up with joy. The transaction was understood, despite Edward's almost aboriginal Bahamian vernacular.


"dese flahts noah gud heeere. You anna be out dere." By "there" he pointed in the middle of the bay.


There was no question that Edward was a borderline lunatic.


I asked "You a fishing guide?" "Nah. Sponge dive. Ay notta know fly fish. Buts ay know de flahts. Dey inna mah backyahd. We see hunna feesh school."


Edward warned:


"I aina got no flahts boht. Buh muh dingee gettas dere an u walk n catch. 8 am til dark. Hard flats, notta dese swamps"


$120 wasn't a bad price for lunch and a boat ride. What the heck.


There was a lot of flailing and gesturing on where I needed to meet him. Blue house south of the Shell Station south side of Deadman's Caye.


After the encounter with Edward, I went to the last spot recommended by my car rental salesman/fishing guide. I couldn't let day one go past without at least dropping a fly on an actual bonefish.


3 pm. Peak of the sun's ascent. Blazing. Salt soaked. Already a bit sore. Why not go for round three of the day.


The flats by the Stella Maris airport were easy wading, hard packed flats. Upon stepping into the water, I spooked a 3 foot long lemon shark that had been sunning itself in a foot of water. It slowly swam away.


Beautiful water. And the wading began. As the sun started to wane, the barracuda swam in. Most were small, 2 footers. They seemed to take up sentry stations every 10 feet apart, waiting to see what would swim in for its last feed before dark. I stood with them, hoping my fly would be eaten by the bonefish before the juvenile cudas.


Two hours of hoping, staring at any flash. Two hours of feeling the sun go from brutal assailant to warm companion as it sank into the sea.


No fish spotted. 


Day two would be destiny with Edward? 


At the hotel, the owner and her husband shook their heads when I told them of my near sinkhole experiences. They seemed to know Edward. No humans had turned up missing on Long Island in the six years they'd been on the island. Edward wasn't likely a murderer, we reasoned. Jackie did say "You gotta know what flies to use and where to go. Maybe Edward does."


Sunday morning broke glorious as the day before. Blue sky, not really a wind, a light breeze. Perfect bonefish weather.


Edward's boat wasn't much to look at. The SS Edward:












But it got us (albeit a bit slowly) to some of the prettiest bonefish flats. These were vastly better than the road accessible muck flats.












These flats at low tide were ankle deep but had easy access to a deep channel. Ideal bonefish habitat!












Well, Edward was no bonefish guide. He was a flats taxi service who also provided beer, a large piece of rum cake, water and three bottles of beer. (Kalik, Bud and Heinekin to cover the bases).


He could see fish three times further than I could.


Our first drop off he explained that his boat would get stuck on the flats. He would park at the end of the flat and I would walk to him. He asked if he could fish with my second rod and I said of course. I then rigged his rod, selected his fly, tied it on and watched him motor away to a point that was about a mile away. A four hour wade, he explained.


Even in ideal flats, there are some ankle swallowers, some knee submergers and worst of the worst - some suck you in until you're butt deep.


Most of the mile wade was fishless and like trying to do a stair stepper in the blazing sun. For the thigh deep muck, it was stair stepper set on sheer vertical ascent.


But it was Sunday morning and I was chasing my elusive bonefish. A holy grail in my progression as a fly angler.


Somewhere about two hours into the wet walk, Edward and I met up. "Nah ah many feesh. Maybea col fronna comin inna gottdem deep."


Oh? Approaching cold front pushing the fish off the flats. That would have been helpful to know...before we got into the deal for the $120 taxi trip!


Just as I was about to say, "Let's go!" a dozen fish swam in under our noses. 20 feet away. Then 25.


I flipped off a perfect, no false cast shot at the head of the pack. No looks. 


"MOTHERF$$$ER!!!!" I screamed as they swam towards Africa. 


24 hours in. My first real shot and spurned. 


Pissed off lawyer mode set in. Conquerer mode set in. "Time to catch a god$$$ed bonefish!"


Edward was smiling because he now had a lunatic for a taxi fare.


Two more hours of walking. Legs not yet sore. Hands salt water soaked. Line marks burning through stripping fingers. Sun oppressive. Doesn't matter. There will be a fish!


No fish spotted. Lunch. Water. Lots of water. Rum cake and a local grown, stubby little banana. Fine lunch. Here to catch a bonefish.


"inna be a low tide see? Gud feeshing!" 


"When?" 


" Foh pee emm"


Plans were made for another boat drop, this time two miles away. Down to my last 32 ounces of water, the afternoon would be a challenge.


Knowing that the tides were against us, I tried to find what shade there was and hunkered down for a rest.


Taking a 15 minute nap in the middle of the Caribbean was heaven. No bugs. No assaultive terns. just sun, a 5 mph, barely there breeze. Amazing.


By now my legs felt like bags of cement. Luckily, the flats were solid, the walking easy and the scenery majestic. The birding was great too - my first reddish egret, pelicans, warblers on the tiny mangrove islands. Paradise, but for the sun trying to burn off my nose and ear lobes, despite their being covered by a face buff.


Two miles of wading after the nap. On the hard pack, it went by like nothing. The good news was the tide was sinking and we'd be in a perfect spot when the feeders would be back.


I met Edward at the boat. Our plan was to stalk together. 


We had 3 legit shots. The fish were feeding like they had a 2 minute dinner time. No pausing. Very tough to lead shots. Maddening.


Day 2 ended. I was glad to be going back. A few thousand steps. Dull ache.


Edward did as promised. he got me to the fish. he wasn't a guide.


I needed professional help. Plus there really was a weak front moving in that would make fishing a bigger challenge.


That night my hotel's restaurant was closed. I changed in the "Jeep", found the first open restaurant I could.


It was on planks on the sea. I think it was called Jerry's or Kenny's. Whoever owned the restaurant also had a friend.


As soon as I sat down, an osprey landed on the seaside edge of the bar and started calling furiously. It was 10 feet away.


Before I could get a much needed Sprite and a menu, the bartender yelled "Again!?!" He then went to the freezer, took out the remains of a filleted small fish and walked to the osprey. It grabbed the fish skeleton and happily started eating its fish popsicle.


Ate a quick dinner of wahoo and Kenny or Jerry's version of conch salad. He was able to reach down and pull a live conch right out of the live conch well he had under his dock. Amazing.


Dinner was wolfed down.


I raced home (well, sputtered in the Mistujeepi) showered off ten hours of salt spray and was shocked that my back and legs weren't wracked with pain.


An hour after falling asleep, my right thigh paid me back for the day's toil. A charley horse. A half hour of grade 5 pain depending on whether I moved at all. That passed and I fell asleep, elated to not be walking on the flats.


The next morning I did not need to call Presley Pinders, the bonefish guide with an actual flats boat. Word traveled on the island that the guy from Michigan had not caught a fish. Presley knew I would meet him.


And so I did. 


It was perfect. We met at the boat launch. He assessed my Tibor Everglades reel, Sage Z Axis 8 weight as "The right stuff." My store bought flies were rejected except for two patterns.


I stepped onto a boat suited for the entire reason I was there - a boat designed to get in the skinny water to chase fish.


Things were falling into place. Presley was charming and a very fishy guide.


We motored at just above idle speed for 1 minute. The wind was causing a moderate chop. Fish spotting and casting would be tough.


Last year I'd spent two days in the Keys with a guide who nicely ridiculed that "Michigan limp wristed" casting that he said was the casting style of trout fishermen. "That's fine for getting a size 12 Adams fly the 20 feet you need with the wind blocked out by the trees. Here, with the usual wind, you won't get your fly past the bow."


Presley presumed I could cast. Much to my delight, I cast with my arm and shoulder, not my wrist.


There was a 400 yard flat just out of the wind. The water was fairly turbid. Every few minutes you'd get the heart stopping flash of a bonefish.


A half hour of B level grade casting towards the flashes was in vain.


Then, a flash 40 feet off at 11 o'clock on the guide directional steering clock directional chart. Decent cast ahead of the flash. The agonizing 30 second wait for the fly to sink. Slow, 6 inch strip. Strip. Strip.


TUG! Adrenaline shot to the heart. Presley yelled "Keep stripping! Fish!"


Fish no more. It didn't commit. Distress but not devastation.


We still had half a flat to try. The wind was a little more in play. Needed to let the wind aim the cast a bit.


A momentary, golden flash at dead noon, 35 feet out. We both saw it. Quite probably the last, best chance of the last day.


Cast just to the left and let the wind carry the fly a couple feet. All existence except for that fish and fly ceased during the 30 second pause as the fly found bottom.


Stripppp. SLAM! Pause. Tentative strip. Sweet, sweet, sweet resistance. Then the reel sang that rapturous Tibor whine!


The Tibor Everglades reel is perhaps antiquated in its technology. No fancy carbon drag. Heavy. Was the hot new reel maybe 20 years ago. Now Hatch and Nautilus are the hot reels. Lighter. Less fatiguing to cast.


However, that Tibor reel did just as it has done for thousands of anglers. It held together on the exact drag setting as that fish tore off a hundred yards of backing. No start up inertia. No scraping of the spool against the spool wall. Perfection.


Turns out bonefish run like hell on fins. Blistering. 


A five minute battle with 75 yard and 25 yard runs and the fish was within eyesight. 


Then it headed to the anchor line and Presly yelled "You have to stop that fish!"


I pulled back on the rod and the fish changed direction. It had no runs left. To net it came.


My heart stopped as the small hand net was lifted into the boat.


JOY. Heart bursting joy. Who else could understand the drive to catch a bonefish? Who else can understand the swelling of tears in a deep moment of pure happiness?


Some of us took to fishing shows on tv like the beginning of our true calling. At some point we pick up what dreams we have for our pursuit of the outdoors.


Maybe it was a Ted Trueblood article in Field and Stream that I read with rapt attention. An article about he and Ted Williams fishing for bonefish with fly rods.


Whatever the source, one of my angling dreams was a bonefish on a fly.


From 10 hours baking my brains without a guide the day before...










To having the guide get me a fish and tell me to hold on!












To a 35 year dream fulfilled!










My heart was leaping out of my chest!


The catch was just as much due to the hard work of www.longislandbonefish.com owner, Presley Pinders picking out the fly and knowing how to get our position just right.


To some they may just be fish. Not to me.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

A couple sunset shots






















And another flats shot


----------



## twowack (Dec 21, 2010)

That was captivating, Well done Sir!


----------



## WILDCATWICK (Mar 11, 2002)

Congrats Paul on fulfilling a dream! Great story, thanks for taking the time to share it with us. Really good stuff!


----------



## Jackster1 (Aug 17, 2001)

That was one of the best reports yet. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## hawgeye (Mar 3, 2011)

Awesome story, thanks for sharing. The pic of the fish wont load for me, would love to see the prey! Makes me want to go myself.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Thank you, everyone.

Hawgeye, maybe if I upload one from my phone, that will work.

I have a shot I took off my camera with the phone that I sent as a text to share the pic with my wife and friends before I could upload the pictures.


----------



## flyrodder46 (Dec 31, 2011)

Fantastic report! Thank you for sharing. Almost sounds like my first experience in Florida for Snook, 2 days of solo frustration, 1 day of exultation with a good guide.

D


----------



## Shoeman (Aug 26, 2000)

Awesome read, Paul!

Those bones are wicked fast!


----------



## Birdsonthebrain (Nov 3, 2009)

Great Report. They can sure make a reel scream


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

It was a blast.


Long Island is much less expensive to spend a week on than Key West. But when you get there, it is really, really quiet!


It'll take a while but I hope to return next year.


----------



## LumberJ (Mar 9, 2009)

Congrats!

Thanks for a great story and taking us along on your adventure


----------



## REG (Oct 25, 2002)

Really, really well done story! Thanks.


----------



## hawgeye (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks for the pic. The look on your face says it all! Again, thanks for sharing.
Sent from my SCH-S720C using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## msfcarp (Jun 6, 2006)

Awesome story man!


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

hawgeye said:


> Thanks for the pic. The look on your face says it all! Again, thanks for sharing.
> Sent from my SCH-S720C using Ohub Campfire mobile app


Hawgeye, thank you.

I wanted such a fish for sooooo long.

Tight lines.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

One last picture:


----------



## troutchops (Apr 15, 2005)

Nice! Great read...


----------



## Fishalot (Aug 25, 2008)

Great story, and as usual, I enjoy seeing the pictures you post.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Fishalot said:


> Great story, and as usual, I enjoy seeing the pictures you post.


Thank you, Fishalot. Have a great night.


----------



## chrishutch (Aug 5, 2013)

Great report/story. I haven't been on here long, but life seems to be a big fly fishing vacation for you.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

chrishutch said:


> Great report/story. I haven't been on here long, but life seems to be a big fly fishing vacation for you.


I wish 

I hadn't fished since December.

I try to squeeze in some fishing when I can. Christmas break was to Arizona to see family and I snuck up to the Grand Canyon for 1 day of fishing. 

This Bahamas trip was because a couple April matters resolved and I had a two week gap in my calendar. It was a whirlwind. Left Chicago 6 am Friday and was home by 1 pm Tuesday. 

My summer vacation is usually Alaska through scrounged frequent flier miles and discount trips to fish camps.

As Esox has wisely counseled, life is short. Fish when you can.

I really like to take pictures so I try and squeeze the fishing into places that will make for good scenery photos.

Tight lines.


----------



## rcleofly (Feb 18, 2012)

Cool story bud.


----------



## Black Ghost (Jul 3, 2002)

Great story, thanks for sharing


----------



## woodlandgirl (Feb 20, 2011)

You are a great story teller! Felt I was there feeling your panic while sinking...good for you that you got your fish and that you take full advantage of what good times life offers you


----------



## Jeef (Mar 5, 2011)

I loved reading it. it reminded me of my diy bonefish madness in the keys, and I hope to have your perseverance on my next tropical trip. 


jeef


----------



## chednhy (Feb 8, 2012)

Great read, I went to Long Island in 06. What a great place to fish amazing place. Would love to get back


----------



## Fly_Guy (Apr 28, 2012)

Great Story!

Im heading to Exuma in a week. More of a vacation with mywife, but booked a guide for two days. Cant wait.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Fly_Guy said:


> Great Story!
> 
> Im heading to Exuma in a week. More of a vacation with mywife, but booked a guide for two days. Cant wait.


Thank you, everyone!

Fly_Guy, Lucky! Please post a report with photos when you return.

The Bahamas are magical.


----------



## Black Ghost (Jul 3, 2002)

Can'wait for the next story, have a safe trip
Bg


----------



## Fly_Guy (Apr 28, 2012)

OH-YEAH!!! said:


> Thank you, everyone!
> 
> Fly_Guy, Lucky! Please post a report with photos when you return.
> 
> The Bahamas are magical.


Will do. I need to hit the vice hard this week. My guide said just bring gotcha's in 4 and 6 with a few different weights.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Fly_Guy said:


> Will do. I need to hit the vice hard this week. My guide said just bring gotcha's in 4 and 6 with a few different weights.


You might also want to bring a toothy critter type leader and a big streamer if you have a chance to cast at any big barracuda you see. I regret not having one when I had a chance for a 10 lb cuda.


----------



## WMU05 (Oct 16, 2004)

I haven't been on this forum in a while but I'm glad I stopped by. This post was awesome! 

I spent a day fishing for bones and permit in Belize a few years ago (didn't catch any) and would love to give it another shot.


----------



## Fly_Guy (Apr 28, 2012)

Quick update on my trip. Fished Tuesday and landed 8 bones, saw hundreds. Just woke up and getting ready to head out today. 

I'll do a full report with pics either Sunday or Monday.


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Fly_Guy said:


> Quick update on my trip. Fished Tuesday and landed 8 bones, saw hundreds. Just woke up and getting ready to head out today.
> 
> I'll do a full report with pics either Sunday or Monday.




Whoa!


What a great day. Good luck today!


----------



## Frozenfish (Dec 20, 2004)

Awesome read. I hope to do the same one day. Reminds me when I once drove from SE MI to fish the Betsie to catch salmon. Drove for 4 hours, fished for 2, caught one salmon and headed home. Can't wait to do again, but fly south for 4 hours instead of drive!


----------



## Rasputin (Jan 13, 2009)

OH-YEAH!!! said:


> I wish
> 
> I hadn't fished since December.
> 
> ...


 
Hay Paul, congrats. Someday I hope to take a crack at bones.

Have you read "Fishing Lessons" from Paul Quinnet?

That's is something we can agree on "life is short, fish when you can". 

Maybe we can get around to that beer at Odd Sides soon?


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Rasputin said:


> Hay Paul, congrats. Someday I hope to take a crack at bones.
> 
> Have you read "Fishing Lessons" from Paul Quinnet?
> 
> ...


Rasputin, next week for a beer would be great.

Never read that book. Will have to pick it up.


----------



## Rasputin (Jan 13, 2009)

Friday?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## OH-YEAH!!! (Jun 18, 2009)

Rasputin said:


> Friday?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


Friday will work.


----------

