# Garden experts



## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Gettting about ready to close up the garden for the year and was wondering if there was anything special you guys like to do as far as late season prep for the following year? For example- Do you til your plants under? Do you cover with straw? Do you just allow it to go fallow? Do you add any minerals or fertilizers? etc


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Michihunter said:


> Gettting about ready to close up the garden for the year and was wondering if there was anything special you guys like to do as far as late season prep for the following year? For example- Do you til your plants under? Do you cover with straw? Do you just allow it to go fallow? Do you add any minerals or fertilizers? etc


I till under and add compost from the compost pile.


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## Burnmtndog (Jan 8, 2008)

I just finished mine last night. I simply removed all the dead plants, and go over the area twice with the tiller. Later in the fall once the leaves fall I always add about four large bags of birch leaves then till again. Through out the winter I save the ash from the fireplace and till that in as well. 

You might not have the remove the dead plants and material, but I'm kinda weird like that. If you tiller can chop the smaller stuff just run the tiller over the area a few times. Corn stalks and vine plants always seen to wind up on the tines and there a b.i.t.c.h.to remove.


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## Frantz (Dec 9, 2003)

I pull and shake off the corn, till everything else under, usually twice. Never thought of tilling in a bunch of the leaves from the yard, then again, I never really thought of raking them either, lol.


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## Backwoods-Savage (Aug 28, 2005)

Using a corn knife, I chop the corn stalks into about 6" lengths and then till them in. That way they do not wind around the tines and till easy.

We cover our ground between rows with straw in the summer to both save moisture and also to keep the weeds down. In the fall we rake that up into a big pile and reuse the following summer besides adding more. 

Yes, I do like to till in the fall and then in spring I'll go over it lightly before planting. 

On the leaves, it is good for the garden but you will have to add extra lime now or next spring. I usually add in the spring. 

I'm trying an experiment this year with throwing apples into the garden and will till them under. I've not tried this before but seems like it should work. I do expect I will have to add more lime next spring though.

For those who are wondering, our gardens are fenced so the deer can't get in, so we are not baiting with these apples.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Backwoods-Savage said:


> ...On the leaves, it is good for the garden but you will have to add extra lime now or next spring. I usually add in the spring.
> 
> .


Why do you have to add lime?


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## Michihunter (Jan 8, 2003)

Another question- Will blighted plants tilled under effect next years plantings?


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## Radar420 (Oct 7, 2004)

Michihunter said:


> Another question- Will blighted plants tilled under effect next years plantings?


I've read before that you shouldn't add infected plant material to your compost due to overwintering spores so I would assume tilling them in the ground would do the same.


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## JohnD4980 (Aug 11, 2009)

Whatever is left in mine dies off and is left. I do always continue to pull weeds.


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## Rootsy (Nov 1, 2006)

I put a cover crop down to aid in reducing erosion as well as aid in adding a green manure for spring and the roots break up the hard pan if there is any.

I do this after plowing in the fall. 

Tillage radish is good...


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## Frantz (Dec 9, 2003)

Roosty, what is tillage radish and is it to late to plant now or perhaps in a couple weeks if we get a warm up?


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## Rootsy (Nov 1, 2006)

http://www.tillageradish.com/

http://hymark.blogspot.com/2009/01/tillage-radish.html


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

I burn my leave into the garden, pine needles too, every fall. 
Correct me, but this does the same as lime?


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## WALLEYE MIKE (Jan 7, 2001)

Greenbush future said:


> I burn my leave into the garden, pine needles too, every fall.
> Correct me, but this does the same as lime?


Ash from burning is potash.


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## sticknstring (Nov 27, 2006)

Wood ash does have fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present. Wood ash does not contain nitrogen.

The largest component of wood ash (about 25 percent) is calcium carbonate, a common liming material that increases soil alkalinity. Wood ash has a very fine particle size, so it reacts rapidly and completely in the soil. Although small amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that of a liming agent.

Increasing the alkalinity of the soil does affect plant nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops, and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good. Keep in mind that wood ash that has been exposed to the weather, particularly rainfall, has lost a lot of its potency, including nutrients.

Specific recommendations for the use of wood ash in the garden are difficult to make because soil composition and reaction varies from garden to garden. Acidic soils (pH less than 5.5) will likely be improved by wood ash addition. Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 6.5) should not be harmed by the application of 20 pounds per 100 square feet annually, if the ash is worked into the soil about 6 inches or so. However, if your soil is neutral or alkaline (pH 7.0 or greater), find another way to dispose of wood ash. If you don't know your soil's acidity or alkalinity level, have it tested for pH.

Crop tolerance to alkaline soil also should be considered. Some plants, such as asparagus and juniper, are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions than "acid-loving" plants, such as potatoes, rhododendrons and blueberries. Wood ash should never be used on acid-loving plants.


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## Backwoods-Savage (Aug 28, 2005)

Because the leaves tend to sour the ground. Pine needles are even worse than leaves.


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## jimbo (Dec 29, 2007)

i pull all my old plants. then rake leaves next to the garden & mulch then up, blowing then into the garden. then mow over then again in the garden. only after i'm thru with the leaves do i till (or at least a huge partion of them). leaving the garden untilled before mulching keeps alot of the soil in place.
i'll toss some old veggies & things on during the winter. i even put up a small fence in about a 3 foot diameter & throw in my winter fish guts & stuff in. the fence keeps the dog out.(the freeze dried fish bone do take a long time to compost,so you still may see a few while planting next yr


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## Banditto (Jun 9, 2000)

If your tomatoe plants had fungus born blight you risk leaving spores in your soil that will infect next years plants. It is best to pull your tomatoe plants and have them sent to the garbage and not composted.


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