# Composite Decking 101 - School Me



## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

d_rek, have you considered a terrace style deck and patio system? Do you have a tractor with a loader. If so maybe build up a perimeter wall with decorative block and fill with sand, top it off with flagstone and step it up with a couple of smaller decks.


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

I think terraced decks complimented with stone and pool looks pretty sharp.


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## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

brushbuster said:


> d_rek, have you considered a terrace style deck and patio system? Do you have a tractor with a loader. If so maybe build up a perimeter wall with decorative block and fill with sand, top it off with flagstone and step it up with a couple of smaller decks.


Do not have access to a loader unless i rented one. Getting fancy with terracing and/or other decorative landscaping significantly increases cost for me as it would require additional labor and materials - especially for stuff outside of my wheelhouse. And i'm trying to stay within a certain budget.

What i'm envisioning is pretty basic all things considered. I'd like the design to be minimal as to keep maintenance lower. Too many terraces, etc., I can see being a pain to maintain. I'd really just like to be able to walk straight out, do some grilling, hang out on some patio furniture, or, when we eventually get one, make a splash into the pool. Here's the layout I put together with the online deck builder thingy:


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

d_rek said:


> Do not have access to a loader unless i rented one. Getting fancy with terracing and/or other decorative landscaping significantly increases cost for me as it would require additional labor and materials - especially for stuff outside of my wheelhouse. And i'm trying to stay within a certain budget.
> 
> What i'm envisioning is pretty basic all things considered. I'd like the design to be minimal as to keep maintenance lower. Too many terraces, etc., I can see being a pain to maintain. I'd really just like to be able to walk straight out, do some grilling, hang out on some patio furniture, or, when we eventually get one, make a splash into the pool. Here's the layout I put together with the online deck builder thingy:
> 
> ...


i like it except one thing... you may consider stairs directly in front of the doorway so you can shoot out the window. I put railing up in my shooting lane to the garden and now I have to be mindful of the balusters when taking aim to protect my crop.

Am I being serious or not? You decide lol


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## FISHMANMARK (Jun 11, 2007)

PunyTrout said:


> And it laughs at polyurethane


I believe Cetol is the preferred finish for Ipe


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

sureshot006 said:


> i like it except one thing... you may consider stairs directly in front of the doorway so you can shoot out the window. I put railing up in my shooting lane to the garden and now I have to be mindful of the balusters when taking aim to protect my crop.
> 
> Am I being serious or not? You decide lol


Great minds think alike, that's what im doing with my deck. 16 foot wide steps off the doorwall. I can get up to 200 yard unobstructed shots from my couch. I just have to be mindful which side the door opens and not get too excited.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

brushbuster said:


> Great minds think alike, that's what im doing with my deck. 16 foot wide steps off the doorwall. I can get up to 200 yard unobstructed shots from my couch. I just have to be mindful which side the door opens and not get too excited.


And do not forget the scope adds a bit of elevation, so when you think you're clear, think once more. And make sure the muzzle is past the threshold with anything louder than a pellet gun.


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## PunyTrout (Mar 23, 2007)

brushbuster said:


> I make duck, turkey and deer calls out of the stuff. I put a oil finish on it then buff out to a high sheen. It took sikkens stain well when I finished my deck, that was a gorgeous deck! It was only a 6x16 though.


They had a ship load of 2"×12"×16' boards at Public Lumber in Detroit about 20 years ago. It was more of an ironwood. The newly constructed homes I've seen in recent years that boasted of having ipe floors you could tell it wasn't the same species of wood. Similar yet not the same. There's only so much _old-growth_ Brazilian rainforest that can be cut down. I suspect that there are several varieties of ipe that are sold. That's why I made the zander analogy.

I went back to Public Lumber not too long ago and the ipe they had was not quite the same. I don't know if 2"×12" boards are readily available anymore. They would probably cost a Sultan's fortune for any project bigger than a chicken coop... :lol:


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## wpmisport (Feb 9, 2010)

sureshot006 said:


> I put railing up in my shooting lane to the garden and now I have to be mindful of the balusters when taking aim to protect my crop.


But you are sureshot, no problem.

The brake barrel pellet guns are nice and powerful. Can shoot it out the sliding patio door going to the deck and no one can see me doing it.


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## PunyTrout (Mar 23, 2007)

FISHMANMARK said:


> I believe Cetol is the preferred finish for Ipe


We did some work on a vacation home in Harbor Springs where they had a crew that spent over two years individually dipping each and every Cedar shake with 2 coats of Sikkens. must be nice to have that much money...


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

PunyTrout said:


> They had a ship load of 2"×12"×16' boards at Public Lumber in Detroit about 20 years ago. It was more of an ironwood. The newly constructed homes I've seen in recent years that boasted of having ipe floors you could tell it wasn't the same species of wood. Similar yet not the same. There's only so much _old-growth_ Brazilian rainforest that can be cut down. I suspect that there are several varieties of ipe that are sold. That's why I made the zander analogy.
> 
> I went back to Public Lumber not too long ago and the ipe they had was not quite the same. I don't know if 2"×12" boards are readily available anymore. They would probably cost a Sultan's fortune for any project bigger than a chicken coop... :lol:


I got mine at a place in traverse city called rare earth hardwoods. I bought all 5/4 1x6 board, it wasn't double the cost of pt deck boards but it wasn't the same either. I did love that deck. It was far superior durability wise compared to pt deck boards.


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## brushbuster (Nov 9, 2009)

I just built 1200 sqft of deck last year, I do wish I could have afforded the ipe, it would have been gorgeous.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

wpmisport said:


> But you are sureshot, no problem.
> 
> The brake barrel pellet guns are nice and powerful. Can shoot it out the sliding patio door going to the deck and no one can see me doing it.


Yes but they are louder than PCP airguns, and as a general rule, not as accurate.


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## PunyTrout (Mar 23, 2007)

brushbuster said:


> I just built 1200 sqft of deck last year, I do wish I could have afforded the ipe, it would have been gorgeous.


If I win the lottery I'll see if we can find a source of those 2"×12" boards and we'll build a giant deck for your log home build. Complete with an outdoor kitchen and screened porch.


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## kroppe (May 7, 2000)

I built a Trex deck 15 years ago with Trex. It was 20x40, and to my knowledge is still in use (sold the house).

Why does your design have an "L" or bump out? Is it related to the site grade? I would eliminate that, if it doesn't have a definitive purpose. 

The decking (walking surfaces, stair treads), railing and balusters were Trex. Joists, beams and posts were treated. Joist spacing was 16", I think. I added extra beams in a localized area, for a future hot tub that didn't happen during my ownership.

The only special tool I used was the plastic spacer thingie to gap the boards. No hidden costs. Very easy to cut and work. The worst part of the job was boring post holes in Washtenaw County clay!

Pre-drilling is recommended, mainly when fastening the butt ends to joists. I used square drive screws with a shank, Fingerle Lumber recommended them with Trex. 

I have no maintenance or longevity experience, because we had exactly one family cookout on the deck before we sold the house... But as I mentioned, I believe the deck is still in use.


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## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

kroppe said:


> Why does your design have an "L" or bump out? Is it related to the site grade? I would eliminate that, if it doesn't have a definitive purpose.


The idea was to have it wrap around a future pool slightly, as well as make for a larger entertaining area with patio furniture, etc.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

I like the shape. Creates a space for either grilling or a more defined space for sitting/socializing.


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## jiggin is livin (Jan 7, 2011)

jatc said:


> For anyone going the composite route, do yourself a favor and go 12” on your joist spacing. If you are planning to still own the house or cabin ten years from now, you will be glad you did.
> 
> I have recently been getting a ton of requests to redo decks that were done 5-10 years ago with composite. Number one problem with them is they were done on 16” centers and the deck boards are actually sagging between the joists as you walk on them, with many of the boards now permanently deflected and weak. Once they deflect, they start to twist and look like crap. Same problem from multiple manufacturers.


I would agree. 

I've installed a few composite decks years ago when it was all the rage. I have since seen many that would piss me off to no end if I had shelled out that kind of money. I hated the feel of it when we installed a few back then. 

I plan on adding onto my deck next year and I'll definitely be going with treated. As mentioned it isn't that expensive to pay someone to redo it if you don't want to spend a couple hours doing it. 

I get the maintenance free draw, for sure. Problem is it just doesn't exist. 

Sent from my E6810 using Michigan Sportsman mobile app


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## d_rek (Nov 6, 2013)

Well. You guys might have talked me out of a composite deck. And i'm OK with that. Maybe it's worth it just to pay someone to redo it every couple of years versus risk putting something in that will be falling apart in 10-15.


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## sureshot006 (Sep 8, 2010)

d_rek said:


> Well. You guys might have talked me out of a composite deck. And i'm OK with that. Maybe it's worth it just to pay someone to redo it every couple of years versus risk putting something in that will be falling apart in 10-15.


I didn't do it because of the history of complaints on something expensive and marketed as maintenance free. Not necessarily falling apart but fading, mold/mildew were an issue in the past. Maybe resolved but maybe not?


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## scooter65 (Sep 23, 2008)

brushbuster said:


> Look into exotic hardwood for decking. I put sown some ipe ( Brazilian chery) on my last house really nice stuff, still have to maintain but the looks and durability are pheonominal. Pricy though. A buddy told me that they are milling boards now with tounge and grooves for hidden fastener hardware applications.


Neighbor has the Brazilian iron wood. Practically indestructable. I've never seen anything like it. Word of warning, it does not take stain. The deck looks brand new after 20 plus years. Roughly 2000 square feet.

For all the cons listed through out this thread, I'm also not a fan of composite. As the other poster stated, do the wood and the savings will pay for years of hiring maintenance out.


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## spartannation (Jan 14, 2016)

I would keep the level of the deck slightly (2"-3") below the level of the door threshold. If you tuck the deck boards under the door sill, you run the risk of water getting in under the sill, potentially rotting your sub floor.


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