# c. 1980 18hp Merc had LOTS of trouble starting, but ran fine once warmed up



## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Finally ran my 1980-81 18hp (based on serial #) Merc, which has been sitting for the last few years, but had previously been tuned up, and started right up, and ran just fine in the bucket on Tuesday. 

Ready to go for Wednesday's trip to the lake, right? Wrong! Took ages and many, many pulls to finally start. I'd gone about 1/4 mile with the electric by the time she fired on the water. Had to take the cowling off, and _eventually_ got 'er to fire after nudging and squeezing the fuel lines, which _may_ have cleared an obstruction. Sometimes the recoil starter would not pull all the way out, and would even snap back. 

The motor did start better after a brief electric trolling run, and ran well once started and warmed up, but then at the end of the day when it was time to pull out after a few hours of trolling with the electrics she had just as much trouble starting. 

I was playing around with the choke and occasionally squeezing the priming bulb, which seemed to be doing its job from what I saw in the priming cup, too, when attempting to get 'er started. 

My arms ended up getting quite a workout!

The plugs having been changed recently and the engine having been tuned prior to sitting for a while makes me think something has gotten gunked up or corroded while she was standing the the garage, and is sticking or making poor electrical contact.

The plugs don't look especially bad, with just a smallish amount of darkened oil, consistent with what I usually see in an old 2-cycle. I'll take a look at the ignition system, but am really much more familiar with Johnson/Evinrude engines. Any ideas from anybody more familiar with Mercs of this era to help me figure this out a bit quicker?

Pics of the plugs:


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## CrawlerHarness (Dec 9, 2017)

Plugs are going to be fine. Need to tune it up starting with the carburators. Will also need to replace the bulb, and go thru fuel lines.


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## piketroller (Oct 24, 2016)

Sounds about par for the course with older Mercs. They can be temperamental bastards. Pay attention to every detail when trying to start it, so when it does start, you can repeat the same voodoo.

While you were getting in your are workouts, was it not firing at all, or were you getting a few puffs and sputters?


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

piketroller said:


> ...older Mercs...They can be temperamental bastards. Pay attention to every detail... While you were getting in your are workouts, was it not firing at all, or were you getting a few puffs and sputters?


Maybe longer, easier pulls when starting, as I seem to recall from the bucket run when there was less urgency to get 'er started? (scratches chin)

Got a few sputters, which increased as she was nearer to finally firing.

The priming bulb and gas line are brand spankin' new, had to get the proper connector for the motor (had only Johhnyrude and Chrysler types), which was the main I hadn't used this one, and got the long line (for a large tank to put toward the front) and bulb with the connector.

Aslo, I drained all the remains of old fuel from the line prior to the bucket test, and was actually _surprised_ at how easily she started in the bucket, especially given the presence of some very old (ethanol free and good looking) fuel in the priming cup, which I didn't know enough about the engine to remove, since it didn't easily unscrew to open and dump out.

Hoping it's something_ simple,_ such as poor terminal connections needing to be cleaned. Looked at the ignition system components, and it's _way_ different from a Johnnyrude, but the carb is _really_ easy to get at and shoot some cleaner into, coil assembly is one self-contained part, rather than a whole lot of condensers, points, etc.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/05906103/ 1018200/677_5


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## piketroller (Oct 24, 2016)

That sounds more fuel system related. Electrical should have it sputtering until it starts running and shaking everything. My guess is the fuel line had some gunk in it, either from a dissolving liner, or junk from the bottom of the tank that got into the primer bulb and settled over the winter. It fired right up in the tank with clean fuel, but the junk ended up the the carburetor by the time you were trying to start it on the water.

Or maybe the start on land had an air temp much warmer than your day on the water, and with the cold dense air, it’s too lean to start. If it has a lean/rich adjustment knob, try that.


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## vegasguy (Oct 20, 2016)

piketroller said:


> That sounds more fuel system related. Electrical should have it sputtering until it starts running and shaking everything. My guess is the fuel line had some gunk in it, either from a dissolving liner, or junk from the bottom of the tank that got into the primer bulb and settled over the winter. It fired right up in the tank with clean fuel, but the junk ended up the the carburetor by the time you were trying to start it on the water.
> 
> Or maybe the start on land had an air temp much warmer than your day on the water, and with the cold dense air, it’s too lean to start. If it has a lean/rich adjustment knob, try that.[/QUOTE
> Have 1985 merc 18 HD. My carb has adjustment screw located on left upper. Likes to loosen up sometimes. To check adjustment turn clockwise till snug. Then back out 1 and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 turns.


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## vegasguy (Oct 20, 2016)

piketroller said:


> That sounds more fuel system related. Electrical should have it sputtering until it starts running and shaking everything. My guess is the fuel line had some gunk in it, either from a dissolving liner, or junk from the bottom of the tank that got into the primer bulb and settled over the winter. It fired right up in the tank with clean fuel, but the junk ended up the the carburetor by the time you were trying to start it on the water.
> 
> Or maybe the start on land had an air temp much warmer than your day on the water, and with the cold dense air, it’s too lean to start. If it has a lean/rich adjustment knob, try that.


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## vegasguy (Oct 20, 2016)

Have 85 merc hd 18 hp. If yours is similar check carb adjustment screw. Turn right till snug then back out 1 and 1/4 turn. That's a good starting poi t. Mine likes to loosen during use. Good luck.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

That makes perfect sense, thanks, piketroller and vegasguy. Absolutely consistent with sputtering more and eventually starting after nudging the fuel lines a bit.

Where's that screw, vegasguy?

The rich/lean control is _very odd_, with one knob that has 4 settings and a symbol like |\| sideways and an arrow that points clockwise (see pics), which I gathered was full choke when fully clockwise (which is the position that starts best and shuts off the engine, having an tiller controlled automatic transmission with no "off" throttle position or setting I could see) and as lean as she goes in the counterclockwise setting, at which she seemed to troll best, though I did very little trolling with the motor, just enough to see how she did. Gotta love that international symbol legend that confuses people of_ all _languages!

That odd, unfamiliar choke/rich/lean control was one big reason I hadn't run the motor, not having much of a clue as to what I was doing, and not wanting just what happened to occur. This time, with my other engines all down or ailing, I saw little choice than to have a go, already, even with only a 3 gallon tank and gas cans.

She ran steadily, but shook quite noticeably at low speed, which is also consistent with some junk, which I'd have thought would clear out after running full throttle for a bit,. There were some light clanking noises that I gathered were from vibration, but couldn't figure out _where_.

Looks like time for some _cleaning_.

Choke/rich/lean knob fully clockwise (note black arm which the parts chart at marineengine.com says connects to an enrichment valve, consistent with full choke):









Choke/rich/lean knob fully counterclockwise:









As for the Evinrude in the background, I have 3 spun props, one of which Lockeman's is sending out to have fixed. One already broke during the attempt and is scrap metal.


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## piketroller (Oct 24, 2016)

fishinthed said:


> That makes perfect sense, thanks, piketroller and vegasguy. Absolutely consistent with sputtering more and eventually starting after nudging the fuel lines a bit.
> 
> Where's that screw, vegasguy?
> 
> ...


Many of the older small Johnson and Evinrude motors had a lean/rich adjustment separate from the choke, so I don’t really know if your knob will do the same or not.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Beats me, piketroller. That's the _only_ control I see with the engine cowling on, aside from the tiller controls.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

When doing some internet searching to find out about that mysterious knob, I stumbled upon another possible reason, which is absolutely consistent with the behavior: reed valves sticking.


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## auger (Mar 6, 2013)

Dump a can of Seafoam in every tank. 2 strokes need peppy gas with that oil. I always mixed my gas 45:1 instead of 50:1


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## Waif (Oct 27, 2013)

Lean/rich gets messed up easy enough.
My instructions (different brand) has the knob removed for tuning following tune up component replacements .
After getting warmed up engine running smooth by adjusting what the knob attaches to , the knob is replaced. 
How that knob is replaced as in lining up with an indicator , or at one end of it's effective range ,or centered in it's effective range can depend on who put the knob on...And of course the knobs design in attachment.
If the user does not know where the knob should be positioned for "normal" it can get adjusted out of whack by anyone.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

auger said:


> Dump a can of Seafoam in every tank. 2 strokes need peppy gas with that oil. I always mixed my gas 45:1 instead of 50:1


You mean the recommended amount? A _can_ would be a lot in a 3 gallon gas tank, or even a 6 gallon tank, and bloody _expensive,_ comparable to the oil needs of my '57 18hp Evinrude.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Waif said:


> Lean/rich gets messed up easy enough...
> If the user does not know where the knob should be positioned for "normal" it can get adjusted out of whack by anyone.


That looks fine, at least, based on how it affects other components. Since there are no markings on the cowling at all, how the knob aligns is irrelevant, as long as it is firm and works properly.


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## auger (Mar 6, 2013)

fishinthed said:


> You mean the recommended amount? A _can_ would be a lot in a 3 gallon gas tank, or even a 6 gallon tank, and bloody _expensive,_ comparable to the oil needs of my '57 18hp Evinrude.


Seafoam adds octane to the fuel. A can of it will do no harm whether it's a 3 or 6 gallon tank. And it's usually on sale for $7 at Autozone or Walmart


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Or better yet, get a gallon jug. I use Sea Foam in my Jeep often, as well, to keep the injectors clean.


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## Sharkbait11 (Apr 7, 2017)

I have a 1988 90hp merc and its one bastard to get started just like yours sounds like. Mine runs a fine line between not enough gas and flooded. But once it gets started up initially it runs all day amd subsequently fires up on the first turn.

A few things that seem to help me are:

Unplug the fuel line at the end of your trip and run the gas out of the carbs so the motor stalls. Next time you cold start plug in the fuel line and count how many times it takes for the bulb to get hard and dont over do it. Each time I do the same thing.

Also look up how many turns for the fuel mixture screw on the carbs and reset it back to the factory settings + an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn which will make the carb run more rich. From my experience with my 90hp and what Ive read about similar ages mercs is that they are hard to start and they love a little extra gas. Once I backed the screws off it ran alot more consistent and has been cold starting easier but definitely still a struggle some days.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Sharkbait11 said:


> I have a 1988 90hp merc and its one bastard to get started just like yours... A few things that seem to help me are:
> 
> Unplug the fuel line at the end of your trip and run the gas out of the carbs so the motor stalls.


Good point, and I always do that.



Sharkbait11 said:


> Also look up how many turns for the fuel mixture screw on the carbs and reset it back to the factory settings + an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn which will make the carb run more rich... Once I backed the screws off it ran alot more consistent and has been cold starting easier but definitely still a struggle some days.


2nd time I've heard this. Will have to implement.

I still will be on the lookout for a reed valve issue, because I did see some gas coming out of the chambers when the hood was open. But mainly when priming it. Will see if air sucks in properly while she's running.

Mucho thanks, everyone, this is like an outboard repair and maintenance course!


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

fishinthed said:


> The Venom kit I found on Amazon did not match the OEM kit or carb numbers, so it is probably more recent. But I found 2 sources for the OEM kit, which run around $50.


I would like to add when you disassemble the carb if you don't have a soak tank use carb cleaner in every orfice liberally and blow them out with compressed air w/good pressure..


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

textox said:


> fishinthed,Use this Sierra p/n for reference 1395-9761--1 this kit fits mercury/mariner 6/8/9.9/15/20/and25 hp engines.Your carb may be a different model.BTW all 3 of those motors had a leak in the primer.in order to squirt fuel into the venturi there has to be a vent to displace air that vent is on the top of the diaphragm housing,The fuel will leak out of that vent hole if the diaphragm is broken.Hope i have been some help!


Yeah, that's a different kit. Mine requires 1399-8153. As noted, I had noticed a little gas leakage from the carb, and when I see that it usually means a gasket or 2 is not properly sealed. Maybe they didn't use gasket grease the last time it was serviced - if ever! I'm very hawkish about sealants and lubricants, Appreciate the tips. Looks like I'll just order the OEM kit.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

When rebuilding any carb. I'd suggest you do not use compressed air to blow thru the idle circuits etc. Any tiny spec of dirt can become lodged and almost impossible to get out. Been there done that back in the 60's. Once I was shown to use tag wire. It works perfect and you can see when your pushing a tiny piece of dirt out of a port. And know you found the problem. If you need tag wire, I'm not that far away if you want a few. I still have a small bundle.
Tag wire is small enough dia. and soft enough to go thru any port/circuit on any carb I've ever rebuilt. And not damage the ports. Even weed wacker carbs.
As far as fuel spraying out of a carb at idle. And poor idle. Like in that video. Is typical of split/cracked reed valve/valves. Pretty easy to replace. A compression check will verify.
Hope that helps.


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## snortwheeze (Jul 31, 2012)

Mercs are the most cold blooded and stubborn motors I've ever seen.. At launch and buddy's boats that have em.


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## perchjerker (Feb 8, 2002)

I would just pull the carb off and clean it. If you are careful you probably wont need a rebuild kit unless you tear a gasket or the needle and seat or float are bad etc. Most times its just a passage in the carb plugged.

I use carb dip from the parts store, Chem Dip, its a gallon can with a basket in it. Its not cheap but its great stuff and lasts forever. It will pay for itself .


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

ebijack said:


> When rebuilding any carb. I'd suggest you do not use compressed air to blow thru the idle circuits etc. Any tiny spec of dirt can become lodged and almost impossible to get out. Been there done that back in the 60's. Once I was shown to use tag wire. It works perfect and you can see when your pushing a tiny piece of dirt out of a port. And know you found the problem. If you need tag wire, I'm not that far away if you want a few. I still have a small bundle.
> Tag wire is small enough dia. and soft enough to go thru any port/circuit on any carb I've ever rebuilt. And not damage the ports. Even weed wacker carbs.
> As far as fuel spraying out of a carb at idle. And poor idle. Like in that video. Is typical of split/cracked reed valve/valves. Pretty easy to replace. A compression check will verify.
> Hope that helps.


Having done hundreds of carbs in my lifetime i can tell you that tag wire will not go thru all passageways some are cast or drilled at a 90 degree angle and plugged with a lead shot or a cup plug .Unless you can replace that plug or shot ,compressed air is the only option along with
a good soak or sprayed carb cleaner.A rebuild is cheap insurance that it is done right...


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

textox said:


> Having done hundreds of carbs in my lifetime i can tell you that tag wire will not go thru all passageways some are cast or drilled at a 90 degree angle and plugged with a lead shot or a cup plug .Unless you can replace that plug or shot ,compressed air is the only option along with
> a good soak or sprayed carb cleaner.A rebuild is cheap insurance that it is done right...


So shop/compressed air can clean out a plugged hole? Idle circuits are not plugged. The only reason to plug a hole is the hole was drill to give access to a certain location. As it could not be machined/drilled without that access hole.
You do it your way, I'll do it mine.


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

ebijack said:


> So shop/compressed air can clean out a plugged hole? Idle circuits are not plugged. The only reason to plug a hole is the hole was drill to give access to a certain location. As it could not be machined/drilled without that access hole.
> You do it your way, I'll do it mine.


Not starting a pissin match, have seen emulsion tube ports that were.013 dia,#80 drill size. Tag wire.017 won't go thru,just sayin...


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Appreciate all the info, everyone. One simple matter to clarify, because the only dumb question when not absolutely certain is one that's not asked: Does the idle adjustment screw on the top right of the carb on this particular engine (indicated below) lean it out when closed (clockwise) and richen the mix when opened (counterclockwise)? That is what this reference for idle adjustment of _higher HP_ Mercs says: https://www.inboardrepairmanual.com/?p=562










I have plenty of soft, pliable, narrow gauge sheathed wire I use for music electronics that should be able to "snake out" the smallest openings without causing damage. Of course I wouldn't use anything like that in a needle/valve seat. What I intend to do for such super-delicate parts is roll up some paper towel to make a point and dip it in carb cleaner. 

While I'm doing the carb cleaning, I may as well check the hoses, filters, etc. too. Since I have another perfectly fine engine, may as well do the cleaning and see which parts (if any!) are shot or worn, _then_ make the parts order, if necessary


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

fishinthed said:


> Appreciate all the info, everyone. One simple matter to clarify, because the only dumb question when not absolutely certain is one that's not asked: Does the idle adjustment screw on the top right of the carb on this particular engine (indicated below) lean it out when closed (clockwise) and richen the mix when opened (counterclockwise)? That is what this reference for idle adjustment of _higher HP_ Mercs says: https://www.inboardrepairmanual.com/?p=562
> 
> View attachment 526421
> 
> ...


Look at reed valves while you have carb off too. The opaque plastic cup unscrews that is the filter housing.And yes counter clockwise gives a richer mixture.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

textox said:


> Not starting a pissin match, have seen emulsion tube ports that were.013 dia,#80 drill size. Tag wire.017 won't go thru,just sayin...


No problem. I was just pointing out. For those rebuilding any carb. Use tag wire, not compressed air to clear idle circuits/ports. It can lead to thinking the rebuild went great. But you end up with the same problem. And not knowing it really is a plugged idle circuit. Causes more problems and looking for more answers.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

I was looking for the reed valves and could not locate them on the parts diagram. Am I looking in the wrong section? 
Marine Engine carb parts diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/05906103/ 1018200/677_7

I also noticed the trim tab on the gear housing is broken off. A cheap part, and readily available.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

[QUOTE="fishinthed, post: 8303089, member: 29171" Does the idle adjustment screw on the top right of the carb on this particular engine (indicated below) lean it out when closed (clockwise) and richen the mix when opened (counterclockwise)? 

I have plenty of soft, pliable, narrow gauge sheathed wire I use for music electronics that should be able to "snake out" the smallest openings without causing damage. Of course I wouldn't use anything like that in a needle/valve seat. What I intend to do for such super-delicate parts is roll up some paper towel to make a point and dip it in carb cleaner. 

While I'm doing the carb cleaning, I may as well check the hoses, filters, etc. too. Since I have another perfectly fine engine, may as well do the cleaning and see which parts (if any!) are shot or worn, _then_ make the parts order, if necessary[/QUOTE]
Yes, screw in to close/lean out. Unscrew to open/increase fuel.
I'm not sure the wire you have will work properly. Tag wire is soft and will follow most any opening. Sometimes you nee a slight bend near the tip. Sometimes.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Appreciate the confirmation regarding the idle adjustment directions for rich and lean. I'm a much better _analyst_ than memorizer, so if I know *how* things work I remember them with no problem.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

fishinthed said:


> I was looking for the reed valves and could not locate them on the parts diagram. Am I looking in the wrong section?


They are not part of the carb. Think valves, below the carb.
This might help to give you an idea. I did not watch the video. But you can see what your looking for. You only should need the reed valves, not the blocks or stops or cages.


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

fishinthed said:


> I was looking for the reed valves and could not locate them on the parts diagram. Am I looking in the wrong section?
> Marine Engine carb parts diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/05906103/ 1018200/677_7
> 
> I also noticed the trim tab on the gear housing is broken off. A cheap part, and readily available.


Look in hole when carb is off.pull starter rope and watch for movement.I Don't think you have a problem there as you said motor ran well after you got it started.reed valves are small strips of steel that resemble shim stock and move with crankcase compression and crankcase vaccume.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Yeah, she runs fine once started. Did so on the lake as well as in the bucket. But the more knowledge the better. Dangar Marine's videos are _excellent_.


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## ebijack (Apr 20, 2009)

Just a bit of info.
The only way to check reed valves that I know of. Is to remove the cages and inspect. 
Extremely fine cracks can form and will allow gas to blow back out of the carb at idle. Those tiny cracks turn into tiny stainless steel chips that can get into the roller bearings. More damage there than from the chips going thru the engine.
I've seen where using a bore scope, you could not see the fine cracks. And compression could be within tolerance of each cylinder before chips formed.


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## textox (Jan 30, 2020)

ebijack said:


> Just a bit of info.
> The only way to check reed valves that I know of. Is to remove the cages and inspect.
> Extremely fine cracks can form and will allow gas to blow back out of the carb at idle. Those tiny cracks turn into tiny stainless steel chips that can get into the roller bearings. More damage there than from the chips going thru the engine.
> I've seen where using a bore scope, you could not see the fine cracks. And compression could be within tolerance of each cylinder before chips formed.


I agree,then more likely to break soon afterward..


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## perchjerker (Feb 8, 2002)

Once the carb is off the reed plate is easy enough to remove and inspect


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Yeah, when I get around to the carb cleaning I'll take a look at the reed plate. The whole reed plate is available for not much more than reed valves, so if both reed valve sections look tired I'll just order the whole shebang. It really does look highly likely there's an issue with the reed valves, based on how she's running, and replacing the whole reed plate assembly would be a piece of cake. With that and the carb work I could have an engine I got dirt cheap that runs like new.

But I did encounter another issue. The tilt lock is not behaving, and I could not for the life of me tell how it works. I had to tilt the motor fully up to lift 'er off the boat because the transom clamp bracket was not secure. That could also pose a problem reversing the motor, but I don't need to use reverse, as I use my electrics to back up when launching anyway.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Reviving this old thread to give myself a boot in the backside to get this engine I set aside a couple years ago sorted out while the weather is crap for fishing. The plan is to remove the carb, inspect it, and look at the reed valves, which I suspect are the real problem with her inability to start, then order whatever parts I deem necessary. Of course, there's also praying to St. Jude. 

This week I put wheels (casters) on the sawhorse on which she was resting, so I can move 'er about easier to optimum locations in the garage or driveway.


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## MisterTom (Sep 13, 2018)

I’m no expert, but if the pull start rope kicks back on ya, it sounds like a misfire to me.

If the motor isn’t spitting gas out of the carb throat, I would think your reeds are ok. Check em out anyway and clean the carb… if she isn’t starting after that, I’d look into the ignition, though it can be time consuming to diagnose. Could be a sheared flywheel key, the armatures got out of sync, bad trigger, rotten wiring, etc.


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Some gas was leaking out of the carb throat, but I would certainly not call it "spitting" out. I'm pretty clueless about electrical intricacies. If it were the flywheel key, I'd expect that would be a bugger to replace, though the parts may be available.


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## Offfishn (Nov 12, 2017)

I had an Evinrude flywheel key that didn't "shear", it just "partially sheared".
The hard starting and running like crap, was due to that not perfect key putting the timing off.
I now keep an extra key (and prop pin) under the cowl of all my outboards.
I also remove the flywheels every couple of years when I do the water pumps. I use Never-seize on the shaft and they pop off with just a little help of the nylon hammer.
Note: 
Some manufacturers of equipment actually put in "offset" keys, when in doubt go buy an "extra" key to check. 
Honda, Kohler, Predator engines come to mind.


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## MisterTom (Sep 13, 2018)

Gas oozing out the carb throat happens, especially if you’ve squeezed the crap out of the primer bulb. If it’s a lot, then your float/needle seat might need a looking over… but you’re gonna rebuild the carb anyway.

Gas spitting out of the carb when cranking/running points to bad reeds. Not very common.

Popping the flywheel off isn’t too crazy, usually you just need a harmonic balance puller and a strap wrench. Also gives you a peek at the trigger and wiring under there. If you’re new to this, I do recommend an OEM shop manual.


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

Older Mercs are known for being cold-blooded, but they usually run great once they warm up. They really don't like sub-freezing weather. I have an old 2-stroke Johnson on my river/steelhead boat. It starts when the temp is 0*.


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## snortwheeze (Jul 31, 2012)

piketroller said:


> Sounds about par for the course with older Mercs. They can be temperamental bastards. Pay attention to every detail when trying to start it, so when it does start, you can repeat the same voodoo.
> 
> While you were getting in your are workouts, was it not firing at all, or were you getting a few puffs and sputters?


This. Mercs have gotta be the most cold blooded, stubborn SOB there is... This is what I see at the launch and on buddies boats who own them...


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

Thanks for the replies. It does have good spark, but something with timing could be off, as far as starting goes. Weather has been too chilly to work on 'er when I've been available, except the day I went fishing. I was attempting to start 'er with the cowling off, and saw nothing consistent with a flywheel key issue, but didn't look for that. Maybe this week I'll get a chance to take another look.


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## ESOX (Nov 20, 2000)

The black fuel line hoses say it all. They are not ethanol friendly and should be replaced with the grey gasahol fuel resistant lines. I bet the carb needs a good cleaning to remove the powdery black fuel line residue out of it as well..........


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## fishinthed (Nov 7, 2007)

ESOX said:


> The black fuel line hoses say it all. They are not ethanol friendly and should be replaced with the grey gasahol fuel resistant lines. I bet the carb needs a good cleaning to remove the powdery black fuel line residue out of it as well..........


Great points, ESOX. I've used ethanol-free rec gas, but who knows what kind of crap fuel the prior owners were using and how well they ran it out before the motor sat? But I had it professionally serviced some years ago and it was running, but I didn't have a proper tank setup for it then or the easily interchangeable connectors I have now. And it did run well once started, and I was using ethanol-free fuel with Sea Foam. I'll see what those all look like when I take a closer look at the carb.


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## Chessieman (Dec 8, 2009)

Fly Wheels are really nothing to remove. Use your standard three arm puller and tighten the screw until there is pressure on the nut and ball. Smack the screw head with a Ballpeen Hammer, pick the puller off the floor after the Flywheel pops. The keys on the older ones are your industrial ASA standard Woodrift Keys. I am sure somebody must be kidding about offset keys. Be hell of a engineering mistake. Your offset could go both ways to advance or retard the timing depending if key is rotated 180 degrees.


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