# Beaver trappers, look at this set (PIC)



## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

OK, I made my first castor mound set today. Wish I could say I was excited and anticipating a catch, but I dont have too much confidence in how this turned out.

I got to the outside-bend in the creek where I found all the beaver cuttings. No fresh sign in the snow, but tons of chewed/stripped branches and twigs on the bottom. I chose this outside bend because any beaver coming down the creek (either direction) would be looking at this shoreline.

So, now that I had this decision made, I spent about 30-mins trying to decide on a spot-within-the-spot. All my best bank-locations were disqualified because adjacent water was either too shallow for drowning, too deep (over my hip boots, too deep of muck, shelf ice, boulders in the way, etc.

Finally, I settled on a spot and rigged the drowner cable to 3-foot deep water. I couldnt drive an upper-end stake due to rocks, so had to tie the cable to a boulder with 14-ga wire. I used this rock as a guide, too. The deep-water end was tied to a sand bag with a real big rock in it, and anchored deep, with a tight cable. I piled a few cuttings and succulent twigs near the set, and made the mud/leaf mound.

When I finished making the mound and stood back, I realized that the mound just looked like the other rocks around it! Grrr...no real eye appeal at all. I dont know how importand eye appeal is, or if the lure does most of the work.

I put a teaspoon of castor lure on the mound and left, pretty disappointed with the results  

Do you guys think this set will work? I tried to leave room between the rocks for a 40-pound beaver to slide up and back.


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## hunter5054 (Aug 2, 2005)

looks good to me NC hope you get a big one tomorrow.....i checked my fox sets today and both of them had tracks within 5 inches of the pan maybe we will both get lucky tomorrow

good luck

mike


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

The set looks good, but how deep did you set the trap for a front foot catch or for back foot catch? I typically like going for a back foot catch the catch rate is much higher. I usually set 8-12" deep for a back foot and about 2" for front which I don't really use anymore. They can bang off the trap with their chest when set shallow they come in mad remember. Don't get me wrong if you set front foot it works great, but back foot I found works better. The set looks good though I don't think eye appeal is so important as the scent. My opinion only, but there have been times I just use the castor scent and connect with no eye appeal. Almost always the set gets hit without the eye appeal. Great job hopefully you will have a big one tomorrow!!:lol:


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Thanks for the encouragement, Ottertrapper.

I remember reading about front-foot vs back-foot, depths, offsets, hold-backs, etc...but when it came right down to it, I just tugged the trap chain tight and swung it around, searching for the best location. It is offset to the left side of the "channel" I created between the rocks, probably 3" of water over the pan.

If I get any action I will be amazed. If the trap is sprung with chest fur, I will add an extension chain and move the trap a little deeper.


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

NC, 
Are you kidding me that spot will never work :lol:. Just joking with ya. I know exactly how you feel. I too made my first castor mound today, me and my evil twin (Chuckinduck) stood there and looked and looked and looked at spots, most spots were discounted for reasons ranging from....to shallow, too deep, no eye appeal. I finally picked a spot and had to have chuckin do most of the work do to me falling in the creek again, I was busy trying to stay warm. We finally completed the spot and I stepped back and said "Hmmmm" that spots looks like 3,000 other dirt clumps around here. Maybe the scent is the main ingredient. So I guess we can start our competition now that we are both playing the same field.....castor mounds set on Sunday?? Good luck, get some pics!!!


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## WeakSpring (Feb 28, 2003)

> I chose this outside bend because any beaver coming down the creek (either direction) would be looking at this shoreline.


Eye-appeal is a good thing. Is the set also on the upwind side of creek?


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## frostbite (Dec 22, 2004)

Northcountry that looks like a fine set. I like the back foot catch as well. Eye appeal is not as important as canine trapping. If your caster mound was back in the snow a bit it would help, also shave some poplar and leave near the mound, so it looks fresh. I think the most important part is placing the trap where the beaver is going to step. I place my trap for a back foot catch and measure the distance from my middle finger to my elbow (off the bank), offset the trap to allow for the wide flat belly and thats where my trap goes. If the water is kinda deep then place some stick in the bank pointing towards the water. These sticks are place to jab the beaver in the chest as he nears the bank to make him thrust his back feet down a little sooner in the case of deeper water at the bank. Other wise the sticks are not needed. Beaver tend to thrust their back feet down pretty hard in order to get their fat butts up on the bank, but they can hit 4 wheel drive and climb steep inbankmunts. Front foot catch is better if you are working in shallow water for drowning purposes. What size / kind of trap did you place? I have been using #3 bridgers and have caught them in #2's, but a #4 or # 5 is best for the rear foot catch. I caught one yeterday by the hind foot with a #1 coil spring set for mink, but that will probably never happen again.


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## deerslayer15 (Nov 27, 2005)

looks good hopefully u get one in the morning


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Weakspring, yes...the set is upwind of the creek.

Frostbite, the trap is a #4 DLS.

The trap is roughly a forearm length from the "shore"...though that line is hard to determine under the snow. 

I read a Dobbins beaver article that said the mound should be within 2-feet of the water.


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

NC,
I just noticed now that you said your drowner was set at 3 feet good thing you didn't set for a backfoot or you would have an angry beaver on your hands in the morning. If you set back foot go no less than 4 feet deep and deeper if you can. Good luck and let us all know.


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## David G Duncan (Mar 26, 2000)

NC,

The set looks fine, but it is a shame that it is so rocky.

A muddy bank with water 3 or 4 inches deep at the edge and + 3' deep water close by is my favorite location for a foothold mound set.

I believe finding a location that meets these criteria is more important than trying to set up on a point of land.

I use beaver castors and oil glands from beaver I have caught over the years that I have stored in gylercin. I slice up a castor across ways in about 1/4 inch wide pieces and add some of the oil over it in a 4 oz. jar. Then I just take a piece of this castor from the jar and rub it on my bait stick and leave the rest on top of the mound. Sometimes I pour a like of the liquid from the jar on the mound and at the water's edge also.

I believe the scent is the main attractor, since I believe that beavers don't have all that good a long distance vision.

Finally, I always set for a front foot, which makes drowning a lot easier and your trap will hold a front foot better than a tapped tough hind foot.

You can check this out on the first beaver you catch. Snap you beaver trap on the hind foot of the beaver you catch and then try to pick the beaver up, by only lifting the trap. I bet the beaver's hind foot will slip right out of the trap, especially if it is a 50+ lb. beaver.

Good Luck!!!!


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## lang49 (Aug 1, 2005)

David G Duncan said:


> You can check this out on the first beaver you catch. Snap you beaver trap on the hind foot of the beaver you catch and then try to pick the beaver up, by only lifting the trap. I bet the beaver's hind foot will slip right out of the trap, especially if it is a 50+ lb. beaver.
> 
> Good Luck!!!!


A #4 will definitely hold a beaver by the hind foot...

What size trap are you using when you catch a beaver by the front foot? I don't believe a #2 will hold a beaver-regardless of which limb it is attached to. As well, a #3 or #4 has a tendency to break the beavers front leg and cause "wring off" leaving the trapper with an empty trap and the beaver crippled.

Although a hind foot catch requires more water to drown the beaver, I believe it presents a greater chance for success.

-Andrew


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## David G Duncan (Mar 26, 2000)

Andrew,

Like you say, the right trap will hold a beaver by the hind foot, especially the ones that weigh 40 # or less. I have even caught small beaver in 1 1/2 coilsprings by the hind foot, where the entire hind foot was in the trap. But I think you will have to agree that on occasion really big toenail from the hind foot of a beaver do end up in the jaws of your #4 trap, once your retrieve it from deep water .

I only set a #4 trap, when making a beaver set, or a #330 conibear.

Every experienced beaver trapper has his particular way to catch beaver and the beginners at beaver trapping will definitely get a lot of sprung foothold traps, before they figure out a method that works for them.

By far the most important aspect of making a successful foothold set for beaver is having a strong wire for the drowner and anchoring it solidly, regardless of whether you are setting for the front or hind foot.

Once you figure out how to get the beaver to place his front foot in the #4trap, it makes driving a drowning stake wearing hips in 3' foot of water a lot more pleasant. I never liked having to wear wadders. Again just a matter of personal preference.

Good Luck on your trapline!


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## u.p.trapper (Dec 20, 2004)

I prefer a steep bank with 12 to 24 inches of water with the trap(#5 bridgers) set tight to the bank so they push off the bottom with their back feet.I do take take them by the front foot if I cant find the deep bank.I have never had a beaver wring a rear foot and I have had them wring front feet even under the best conditions.I usually use no caster mound just a stick with caster on it.First thing a johnny looks for is eye appeal and beaver dont care unless its lure shy then why waste time tryning to catch it?leave it for stock and move on .Lots of beaver so little time!Also use a heavy pan tension.Since I went to deep water setting and heavy(6 to 8 pounds) pan tension my misses have dropped to almost nothing.Plus the pan tension and deep water keeps the rats from plugging my traps!


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Well, I trudged the 400-yds across open field and 40mph winds this morning to check my beaver set (yes, Captain Northwood...I only have one set out  ).

My castor mound set had a visit from a coyote and a beaver.

Unforunately, the beaver decided to use other locations to climb in and out of the water, not the one with my trap in it. My trap was still sitting there undisturbed.

I didnt bring any tools, gloves or lure...and had no time to move the trap, anyway. But I will move it to one of the locations that the beaver used, and leave everything else the same (I guess?).

Beaver guys......will the beaver keep coming back to this set, if I keep re-making the mound and re-luring?

Here are the pics...


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

Whew that was a really close call for me. I wouldn't mess with the trap, I am sure he will change his route. Hmmmm I got an idea, put a bunch of rocks in a circle and put the trap in the middle. That will force him to step in the middle of the rock cluster and right into your trap....ya that will work good.....try that idea. :evilsmile


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Hey, thanks for the great idea Cap'n! Gee, and all this time I thought you were a nasty, cheating, egotistical, win-at-all costs competitor 

Now I'll share an old Indian set with you...and its gar-on-teed to work:

Put your castor mound up about head-high in a nearby tree...like a bird nest. Then, put your foothold upside down (pan facing down) on the ground, at the base of the tree. Cover the trap with heavy branches (about the size of your wrist) to camoflauge. Make this set and leave it alone for at least 3-weeks. Dont fuss with it or it will leave too much scent and scare the beaver. (nyuk, nyuk, nyuk) :evil:


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

NC,
Wow thats exactly what I was thinking too. I will cancel all my meetings this afternoon and run right out there and change my set. One question, how would you set it with a 330? I only want the best idea though, no half brained answers.:lol:


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Cap'n...

The Indians didnt have 330's.

But, I would say that you could just modify the proven, secret set I described. Just swap the position of the mound and the trap. 

:help:


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## frostbite (Dec 22, 2004)

Yes NC the beaver will come in. Move your trap and you will have him the next night.


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

What Frostbite meant to say was "Yes NC move your trap under the big rock and you will do fine" He also meant to tell you that beavers are very proficient diggers, place some Tinks 69 on the rock, beaver love to eat venison, especially does that are in heat, the beaver will think there is a doe under the rock and will dig like crazy to get at the succulent meat, place your trap directly under the rock and when he digs you will get him.


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Cap'n...

I thought Tink's 69 was a mouthwash? 

Dang...I need to read the labels more often.

Thanks for the help with my beaver set...youre a heck of a guy


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## Smoknngunn (Oct 4, 2005)

I'm still on the fence on this one...waiting to see who can come up with the best advice(dirtiest trick). You guys are killing me here...LOL.  

Thanks for the laughs, guys.

Mike


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Alright, enough fun...back to business, now! 

I went out and checked my beaver set today, no action at all. My primary purpose was to adjust the location of the set, anyway....and to re-lure.

This is how the set looks now, after I moved the castor mound to the "slide" that the real beaver created. I added the mud slick to really give him an idea where the intruder climbed out of the water. Of course, my trap is sitting in the water, in front of the approach...


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

Oh God I am in trouble now, I like that set. Did you remember to put the trap on the other side of castor mound 19" inches behind the castor mound upside down? All joking aside that looks pretty good too me, I am expecting a picture tomorrow. Good luck!


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## FixedBlade (Oct 14, 2002)

See them rocks out in the water in front of your set? Marked with the red X. Get them and line them up in the water along the bank. Use them as fencing to guide the beaver to your slide. You want a clear path to your slide. That castor mound may be to far up the bank. I was placing mine in the back of the notch or top of the slide.


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Thanks, Fixedblade.

I'll make those changes on my next visit


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## CaptainNorthwood (Jan 3, 2006)

NC,
Is the red x where you have the trap placed?


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Cap'n....

I editted my original pic to show approx where the pan is. Look for the big red dot.

I offset it to the left and theres a couple of inches of water over it. The bottom is very gradual/shallow there, then drops-off right behind where I am standing.

The rocks are pretty darn big. The one just to the left of my trap is what I have my drowner cable anchored to. This rock wieghs about 75-pounds. The boulder to the right is huge...bigger than an office chair.

I will move the rocks that I can, to create a funnel...but this location was already selected by the beaver. I just moved my setup to the spot he used yesterday, to get in and out of the water.


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## Joe R. (Jan 9, 2002)

Some brush collected from around the set will also work for fencing and is lighter then them rocks. Just a suggestion.

Joe


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## David G Duncan (Mar 26, 2000)

NC,

Normally I would place the beaver pie right at the edge of the water. Also I would place a small piece of fresh popular peeled on one side in front of the mound, with some castor on it, as a target for the beaver to aim his nose at .

As far as using guide sticks or rocks, I have found them to be unnecessary, if you make you set in a good location to begin with.

I also like to use a chest stick in front of my trap.

Here is a picture of a set that took a beaver first night that it was out.












Note that the trigger side of the trap is tight up against the top stake, to keep the beaver from stepping on the dog. Also, the chest stick is positioned against the front of the trap, just under the water surface.

I apologize for the poor quality of the photo, I could not find the original, so it is a photo of a photo.


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Thank you, Dave.

I did put a stick with castor on it, right at the approach I want the beaver to use. I wanted to have the gob of lure just above the waters surface.

I will bring the mound/pie in closer to the waters edge today.


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

So how many nights have you had your set out there with the castor scent? And you said it hasn't been hit yet? If that is the case something strange is going on here! I have never to my knowledge had a scent mound set go untouched the first night I put it out, unless we are dealing with a trap/scent smart beaver. This meaning he has been trapped in the past by these methods and knows what is going on. For some reason he is not checking out your mound, I doubt that is has anything to do with you not doing something right. The set looks good. Find where he is going up on the bank and set a trail set for him without scent. Hope this helps


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## Northcountry (Feb 4, 2004)

Otter'....

Yes, I had one, possibly two visits (see post #15 for pics).

I cant be real sure about the second visit due to extremely high winds, blowing snow and then subsequent melt-off. I see plenty of new mud tracks, but they may have been there under the snow and I couldnt see them before.

Keep in mind, this site has the smallest amount of beaver sign I have ever seen. I have been all up and down this creek and can not find one tree/branch that has been chewed, or any slides of any kind. I have seen alot of beaver sign over the years, especially along my AuSable River property, so I know what to look for. This seems like a beaver who's base is a long ways away, but made a foray to my location one night. Maybe it makes the long trip to search for intruders every once in awhile, I dont know. 

But I can say for sure, there are not alot of beaver working this spot...its just close to home and handy for me to try my first set.


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## ottertrapper (Jan 6, 2006)

I wasn't questioning whether or not there was beaver there it just seems weird to me that the trap hasn't been touched yet. It shouldn't matter how far away he or she is coming from the lure should still work. Hopefully he will mess up soon and you will have one. I will be waiting for pictures. Good luck and most of all have fun! I remember when I started beaver trapping about 16-17 years ago those are some great memories!


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