# Fixed blades that give best blood trails



## Urriah

I've shot mechs and fixed, right now I'm back on a fixed blade-heavy arrow kick. I'll add another vote for sharp broadheads and placement being more important than anything else. Even heads I thought were 'sharp' quickly became scary on the Lansky. Some of the worst blood trails we ever had were with G5 Montecs, but that was before we took sharpening seriously and I suspect if we'd given them a little more TLC they'd have been just as good as many others.

But my favorite right now is the QAD Exodus for a fixed. Pretty bombproof, easy to disassemble and sharpen and blows a pretty satisfying hole. I've also had good success with a couple of different Magnus heads.


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## bmoffit

Urriah said:


> I've shot mechs and fixed, right now I'm back on a fixed blade-heavy arrow kick. I'll add another vote for sharp broadheads and placement being more important than anything else. Even heads I thought were 'sharp' quickly became scary on the Lansky. Some of the worst blood trails we ever had were with G5 Montecs, but that was before we took sharpening seriously and I suspect if we'd given them a little more TLC they'd have been just as good as many others.
> 
> But my favorite right now is the QAD Exodus for a fixed. Pretty bombproof, easy to disassemble and sharpen and blows a pretty satisfying hole. I've also had good success with a couple of different Magnus heads.


i used to use the montec but i just can’t get them sharp. That is a skill i just cannot master. That’s what got me to the slick tricks. Use em once and toss the blades and replace. I’m thinking of giving the exodus a try


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## Urriah

bmoffit said:


> i used to use the montec but i just can’t get them sharp. That is a skill i just cannot master. That’s what got me to the slick tricks. Use em once and toss the blades and replace. I’m thinking of giving the exodus a try


One of the factors that intrigued me with the QAD was that while the blades are replaceable, they're also super heavy duty and easy to sharpen. Figured it's the best of both worlds. The one deer I did shoot with the QAD this year blew through and buried 10" in the dirt (deer trotted 40 yards then tipped over) and you couldn't even tell the broadhead had been shot at something. That's about the best review I can give a broadhead.

I will say that I would never plan on just throwing on new replacement blades of any variety without hand sharpening them myself. Doing a paper slice or rubber band test can be really eye opening as to how sharp blades are out of the box.


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## Rancid Crabtree

bmoffit said:


> i used to use the montec but i just can’t get them sharp. That is a skill i just cannot master. That’s what got me to the slick tricks. Use em once and toss the blades and replace. I’m thinking of giving the exodus a try


Did you use the soft and gummy stainless version (they are grey in color) or did you use the harder and better carbon steel version (they are black)?

Ive been asked to make a better sharpener for one piece fixed, 3 blade heads like montec and woodsman and NAP hellrazor and VPA So bowhunters and crossers can go from a 60 degrees blade bevel (30 degrees on each side) to 44 (22 on a side) to get a better edge. I will be releasing that sharpener this month.


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## bmoffit

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Did you use the soft and gummy stainless version (they are grey in color) or did you use the harder and better carbon steel version (they are black)?
> 
> Ive been asked to make a better sharpener for one piece fixed, 3 blade heads like montec and woodsman and NAP hellrazor and VPA So bowhunters and crossers can go from a 60 degrees blade bevel (30 degrees on each side) to 44 (22 on a side) to get a better edge. I will be releasing that sharpener this month.


they were the old grey ones.... i put on QAD EXODUS hoping to see how they worked the last week of the season but it didn’t pan out. I have an old montec practice head. When i start shooting this summer I’ll shoot it and see how it flys. If it flys true i may be switching. And don’t get me wrong with the ST. when i hit where im aiming the deer don’t go far. Between 50-110 yards... there just doesn’t seem to be that good of blood. Now a few years ago. I got on the swacker kick Zipped a buck and it was by far the best blood trail I’ve ever had. Deer went maybe 80 yards. Next deer i hit too close to the shoulder and didn’t get any penetration. And i shoot a heavy set up with a long draw length. That buck suffered. I shot him on 10-31 and had pics of him thru winter and he didn’t look good and didn’t see him after that. That being said... i want a broadhead that allows me to shoot close to the shoulder without worry it’s not gonna bust thru and give me a decent blood trail... and ya.. i know if i don’t him them good there aint gonna be a good blood trail.. montec might be the one... if i can keep them sharp


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## MichiFishy

All the comments about shot placement and sharpness are spot on. Sharpness is a result of the steel used. So regardless of the brand, make sure they are using quality steel to start with, then get very familiar with the process of sharpening. 

I call it getting edges "scary sharp". As in, the edge is so sharp, you don't even need to touch it to the hide, it just scares it open! 

Obviously you are touching whatever you are cutting, but when an edge is "scary sharp", it will appear like the edge is not even making contact and will require almost zero force to cut. 

I have always shot Magnus two blades. Only 1 deer out of 11 didn't have a pass through, and several went through a shoulder on entry or exit. I shoot traditional so arrows are heavy as well. I think 680 grains if I remember correctly.


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## o_mykiss

The sharpness is so key. I used to have deer run 75+ yards on occasion, and some even 200+. I was just assuming the broadheads were sharp from the factory. Muzzy's and Rages both.

Since I bought the stuff to sharpen broadheads and made sure even new out of the box ones were razor sharp, I've watched all 7 deer tip over in sight. Not a one went more than 50 yards

Some of them didn't even really react to being shot that much, just a jump and then some walking/twitching. Or trotted a few yards, stopped, looked around, and crashed


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## Joe Archer

Make sure that your bow is tuned well, put a Thunderhead on this summer, and make sure it flies with your field points. Aim for your exit with a double-lung when hunting and you will be good to go!
<----<<<


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## RoadDog

Watch and learn


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## 2stix-and-a-string

bmoffit said:


> I know a lot of you are mechanical fans.. i for one am not just personal experiences with them that were not good. Soooo...I’m looking to hear from some of the fixed blade guys on their experiences with fixed heads and the blood trails. I posted a different thread on an issue I’ve had with slick tricks and want to find a new fixed blade broad head for next year. all posts regarding fixed heads would be appreciated


Zwickey black diamonds.
You must learn to sharpen well and often, and you will.
Hands down, can’t be beat.


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## dpretired

In the last two years, I have used Slick Trick Magnum 100 gr. fixed blade broadheads to kill two deer with. On the plus side, slick tricks fly just like a field point, and they penetrate well, but I've yet to see a good blood trail even with a good pass through shot. I made what I thought was a great 45 yard shot on this buck pictured below last fall. And he only went about 80 yards after getting hit, but there was very little blood on the ground to follow, just a few spots here and there. Luckily I kept my eye on him as he ran and my friends and I found him just past the spot where I finally lost sight of him. Maybe if I had aimed a little bit lower, things would have been better blood trail wise. I'm reluctant to change because those broadheads do fly well, and I never have to worry about the cutting ability of them, but I am concerned about blood trail results that I've seen so far. Because of that, I sometimes find myself wishing for colder weather and snow.


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## Urriah

dpretired said:


> In the last two years, I have used Slick Trick Magnum 100 gr. fixed blade broadheads to kill two deer with. On the plus side, slick tricks fly just like a field point, and they penetrate well, but I've yet to see a good blood trail even with a good pass through shot. I made what I thought was a great 45 yard shot on this buck pictured below last fall. And he only went about 80 yards after getting hit, but there was very little blood on the ground to follow, just a few spots here and there. Luckily I kept my eye on him as he ran and my friends and I found him just past the spot where I finally lost sight of him. Maybe if I had aimed a little bit lower, things would have been better blood trail wise. I'm reluctant to change because those broadheads do fly well, and I never have to worry about the cutting ability of them, but I am concerned about blood trail results that I've seen so far. Because of that, I sometimes find myself wishing for colder weather and snow.
> View attachment 633991


Very nice buck! That hit looks high to me for a good blood trail, especially if you were on the ground where you wouldn’t have a lower exit. Double lunged that deer will die before the body cavity fills enough to really start bleeding.


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## pgpn123

bmoffit said:


> i used to use the montec but i just can’t get them sharp. That is a skill i just cannot master. That’s what got me to the slick tricks. Use em once and toss the blades and replace. I’m thinking of giving the exodus a try


Shot Hellrazor this year, so easy to sharpen. Bought some 400 and 1000 grit paper. Lay flat and did 2 blades at a time, then turn and repeat until all edges are done. Sharpest I've ever had them by far.



Rancid Crabtree said:


> Ive been asked to make a better sharpener for one piece fixed, 3 blade heads like montec and woodsman and NAP hellrazor and VPA So bowhunters and crossers can go from a 60 degrees blade bevel (30 degrees on each side) to 44 (22 on a side) to get a better edge. I will be releasing that sharpener this month.


Interested in seeing this sharpener when it's ready.


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## don

After using SlickTricks since they came out I am going to put my trust in these this year along with their sharpener. Cut on contact 4 blade head milled out of one solid piece of steel and made in the USA. I'll be using the 1 3/6" version.
Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads, Fully Machined 4-Blade Fixed Broadheads

*Tooth of the Arrow Guarantee*
If you use Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads and do not experience better flight, more penetration, and quicker recoveries, let us know, and we will refund your order. That is the Tooth of the Arrow guarantee.


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## dpretired

don said:


> After using SlickTricks since they came out I am going to put my trust in these this year along with their sharpener. Cut on contact 4 blade head milled out of one solid piece of steel and made in the USA. I'll be using the 1 3/6" version.
> Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads, Fully Machined 4-Blade Fixed Broadheads
> 
> *Tooth of the Arrow Guarantee*
> If you use Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads and do not experience better flight, more penetration, and quicker recoveries, let us know, and we will refund your order. That is the Tooth of the Arrow guarantee.


Have you actually done any target shooting with those new broadheads yet to see if they fly as true as the Slick Tricks? If so, I'd like to hear how that went. Also, how much did you pay for them and how many are in a package? I might like to try them out myself.


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## 454casull

Not a recommendation just a comment/observation. Todays BH both mechanical and fixed are so effective that the animal expires before a solid blood trail can be created. The deer in the photo was hit in the "high" end of the kill zone. Great shot but IMO the deer died before it filled up. My first buck this year was hit in similar spot but I was 20' up so the exit was low through the elbow of the offside leg. Should have been a Manson right? Nope good drops as the deer ran but I lost track a couple times. I heard him crash and knew it was down but blood all but stopped 10-15 yards from where I found him, still an easy recovery. Lungs and heart were hit and hit well. The exit through the leg did not allow for a gushing blood trail, 1 3/8" Grim Reaper. The BH did its job as did the hunter, got pics to prove it, heart and lung pics. We just have to understand there is no magic bullet and that every situation is different. Do not go into a blood trail with set expectations. Oh the arrow was soaked too. If you have confidence in your BH/equipment stick with it. We are always looking for a bigger better deal and many times we end up shooting ourselves in the foot!


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## Joe Archer

dpretired said:


> In the last two years, I have used Slick Trick Magnum 100 gr. fixed blade broadheads to kill two deer with. On the plus side, slick tricks fly just like a field point, and they penetrate well, but I've yet to see a good blood trail even with a good pass through shot. I made what I thought was a great 45 yard shot on this buck pictured below last fall. And he only went about 80 yards after getting hit, but there was very little blood on the ground to follow, just a few spots here and there. Luckily I kept my eye on him as he ran and my friends and I found him just past the spot where I finally lost sight of him. Maybe if I had aimed a little bit lower, things would have been better blood trail wise. I'm reluctant to change because those broadheads do fly well, and I never have to worry about the cutting ability of them, but I am concerned about blood trail results that I've seen so far. Because of that, I sometimes find myself wishing for colder weather and snow.
> View attachment 633991


Did you get a passthrough on that buck? 45 is a fairly long shot.
You often get very little blood until an animal slows down. A fast running deer that may bound 10 yards at a time commonly leave only trace blood initially. The take-home message in your post is to ALWAYS pick a landmark as your last point of visual reference, and a landmark for the last place that you hear the deer! I mark one of these with my compass because perspective can change from the ground.
If you have trouble getting on a blood trail, you will likely find blood at one of these reference points.
<----<<<


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## dpretired

Joe Archer said:


> Did you get a passthrough on that buck? 45 is a fairly long shot.
> You often get very little blood until an animal slows down. A fast running deer that may bound 10 yards at a time commonly leave only trace blood initially. The take-home message in your post is to ALWAYS pick a landmark as your last point of visual reference, and a landmark for the last place that you hear the deer! I mark one of these with my compass because perspective can change from the ground.
> If you have trouble getting on a blood trail, you will likely find blood at one of these reference points.
> <----<<<


That was a thick bodied deer and it was almost a complete pass through. Most of the arrow shaft was actually still inside the deer and was barely sticking out both sides of him when we found him. At some point, he had broken off the broadhead and about an inch or so of arrow shaft probably from rubbing against some tough bark as soon as he entered the trees. In hindsight I'd guess that he didn't go much further than 30 yards or so from where I last got a glimpse of him. And you're probably right as far as why there was such a scarcity of blood found on his initial getaway trail because he did take off at full throttle after the hit and kept it up for another 70 yards before he suddenly stopped to look around him. Then he just ducked into some real heavy ground cover, apparently to lay down, and that's where we found him a half hour later, deader than a door nail. 

The year before when I killed a smaller female deer at 25 yards from my tree stand with one of those Slick Tricks, the arrow not only passed completely through the ribs like a bullet, but it also stuck in the hard clay right up to the vanes on the other side. It was like it hadn't even slowed down while going through that animal. That deer didn't run more than 20-25 yards before stopping to take a long lookaround, and then it just laid down in the high weeds, never to get back up again. I waited about 15 minutes before I climbed down to go over to investigate the last sighting of it. But, once again, hardly no blood found on the short getaway trail, just a few dots on the weeds here and there. Luckily for me, both deer shot with those Slick Tricks hadn't gone very far before keeling over.


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## Rancid Crabtree

pgpn123 said:


> Interested in seeing this sharpener when it's ready.


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## don

Some of the shortest recoveries I had were when I was using the smallest three blade fixed head I have ever used, the replaceable blade model Sonic 100gr 7/8" wide made by American Broadhead Company located in Milan, MI at the time. I was having tuning issues with the Mathews and that little broadhead flew like the proverbial dart for me.

I killed two bucks with that little broadhead, both walked off at the shot with essentially no reaction, then dropped dead within 60 yards. It was as if they didn't know they had been hit, they just heard some sound, flinched, and after a few seconds casually walked away.
I only used them the one season and it was back to wider fixed blades or mechanicals, and also panicked death runs resulting into longer blood trails.

Chew on this for awhile, is bigger and/or wider always better when it comes to blood trails ?

Does the initial impact from a wider fixed blade or a wide cut mechanical result into longer blood trails because the deer panicked when it felt the broadheads impact ?

All things considered would a blood trail be easier to follow if the deer was walking, vs running ?

From my experiences and judged by the reaction I have seen is that an accurately placed, extremely sharp broadhead, (emphasis on both) in a smaller version might just lead to more recoveries and better blood trails, gut shots and and extremely poor hits excluded.
Proper waiting before taking up the trail is no doubt the most important decision one can make at that time, regardless of the size of the broadhead used, even mechanicals.

Don't push them and they won't go far if mortally/critically injured.


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## sureshot006

don said:


> Some of the shortest recoveries I had were when I was using the smallest three blade fixed head I have ever used, the replaceable blade model Sonic 100gr 7/8" wide made by American Broadhead Company located in Milan, MI at the time. I was having tuning issues with the Mathews and that little broadhead flew like the proverbial dart for me.
> 
> I killed two bucks with that little broadhead, both walked off at the shot with essentially no reaction, then dropped dead within 60 yards. It was as if they didn't know they had been hit, they just heard some sound, flinched, and after a few seconds casually walked away.
> I only used them the one season and it was back to wider fixed blades or mechanicals, and also panicked death runs resulting into longer blood trails.
> 
> Chew on this for awhile, is bigger and/or wider always better when it comes to blood trails ?
> 
> Does the initial impact from a wider fixed blade or a wide cut mechanical result into longer blood trails because the deer panicked when it felt the broadheads impact ?
> 
> All things considered would a blood trail be easier to follow if the deer was walking, vs running ?
> 
> From my experiences and judged by the reaction I have seen is that an accurately placed, extremely sharp broadhead, (emphasis on both) in a smaller version might just lead to more recoveries and better blood trails, gut shots and and extremely poor hits excluded.
> Proper waiting before taking up the trail is no doubt the most important decision one can make at that time, regardless of the size of the broadhead used, even mechanicals.
> 
> Don't push them and they won't go far if mortally/critically injured.


Very true. They can go damn far in just a few seconds on a dead run. If they don't know what happened they take a few jumps and walk until they get weak. Probably same duration for both but far different distance.

The small, sharp head makes a lot of sense. As would the deers alertness at the shot.


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## bmoffit

This turned into a pretty cool thread


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## Slimits

don said:


> Some of the shortest recoveries I had were when I was using the smallest three blade fixed head I have ever used, the replaceable blade model Sonic 100gr 7/8" wide made by American Broadhead Company located in Milan, MI at the time. I was having tuning issues with the Mathews and that little broadhead flew like the proverbial dart for me.
> 
> I killed two bucks with that little broadhead, both walked off at the shot with essentially no reaction, then dropped dead within 60 yards. It was as if they didn't know they had been hit, they just heard some sound, flinched, and after a few seconds casually walked away.
> I only used them the one season and it was back to wider fixed blades or mechanicals, and also panicked death runs resulting into longer blood trails.
> 
> Chew on this for awhile, is bigger and/or wider always better when it comes to blood trails ?
> 
> Does the initial impact from a wider fixed blade or a wide cut mechanical result into longer blood trails because the deer panicked when it felt the broadheads impact ?
> 
> All things considered would a blood trail be easier to follow if the deer was walking, vs running ?
> 
> From my experiences and judged by the reaction I have seen is that an accurately placed, extremely sharp broadhead, (emphasis on both) in a smaller version might just lead to more recoveries and better blood trails, gut shots and and extremely poor hits excluded.
> Proper waiting before taking up the trail is no doubt the most important decision one can make at that time, regardless of the size of the broadhead used, even mechanicals.
> 
> Don't push them and they won't go far if mortally/critically injured.


I would argue even gut or liver shots a smaller fixed blade might be better cuz then they wont feel it and run as much. Further they run on those shots the less chance there is for recovery.


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## RoadDog

Blood trails are overrated. As many here have found out if a cut on contact fixed blade broadhead is used with the proper placement the deer often walk away and drop within eyesight instead of running and bounding for a quarter mile.


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## bowhunter1313

Qad is an amazing head, i have shot thru bull elk with phenomial blood trails. But i agree, the sharpness is thee key. Set up a rubber band test, a taught rubber band is very similar to blood vessel. Drill a hole large enough for broadhead to fit thru 6 or 8"square pc of wood. Tac nails in around the hole. Criss cross 6 or 8 rubber bands on nails and make sure they all go over hole. Push your broadhead thru the hole hitting rubber bands. If most of them break, your good. If your head only pushes them aside, that is what will happen on an animal. You MUST be able to sever arteries or you wont have good blood consistently. Cut arteries and you will have a great trail, push them aside and much less blood. Good luck


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## don

dpretired said:


> Have you actually done any target shooting with those new broadheads yet to see if they fly as true as the Slick Tricks? If so, I'd like to hear how that went. Also, how much did you pay for them and how many are in a package? I might like to try them out myself.


I purchased them direct (6) to take advantage of the free shipping, they come three to a pack. 1-3/16-inch 4-Blade Fixed Broadheads | Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads
Haven't shot them yet but with their guarantee (*If you use Tooth of the Arrow Broadheads and do not experience better flight, more penetration, and quicker recoveries, let us know, and we will refund your order. That is the Tooth of the Arrow guarantee.) *and reviews I've read I'm not at all concerned that they will fly every bit as good as my SlickTricks, in fact my SlickTricks are listed in the classifieds as I type this.
NIB SlickTrick Magnum 1 1/8" 100gr. Broadheads | Michigan Sportsman - Online Michigan Hunting and Fishing Resource (michigan-sportsman.com)


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## mjh4

I've had some wicked blood trails from the 125 grain 3 blade muzzys. I take the blades out grab them with a pair of vise grips and run em on a leather strop with a medium compound until the edges are wicked sharp. Bonus with muzzy is they really do destroy bones with that chisel tip. The Magnus stinger 4 blade hand sharpened will spit a dandy blood trail as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Michigan Sportsman


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## brushbuster

I've been through the Gamut of all sorts of broadheads. I've had good results from many, I've had expandables open in flight so I stopped using them. I used Magnus 4 blade buzcutts for a few years. Killed a cow elk last year at 40 yards, blood every where and watched it go down. One thing I don't like about the Magnus is I had to adjust my sights to shoot them. This year I'm trying something different. I heard alot of good reviews about the ram cat Hydra shocks. I bought a pack of the 125s. Shot 3 arrows, one with a field point one with a Magnus buzz cut and one with the ram cat. The ramcats flew tight with the field point the Magnus flew 2 inches to the left shot after shot from 20- 50 yards. The ramcats will be in my quiver for a up coming bear hunt on the 1st of May. I want a good accurate shot that passes through. The ramcats will leave a 2 inch wound channel so if my shot is true I should have sufficient blood to follow. Wish me luck


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## 1morebite

100 gr. Thunderheads!
Used to shoot a broad head silhouette league years ago and they held up to dirt hills better than anything.
One thing I have not heard mention is alignment to the arrow.
I have a jig with a dial indicator on it, any broad head within .002 on three sides will fly true and spin in your hand true when blowing on vanes or feathers.
With proper shot placement you can watch em fall.
Shoot straight!


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## jjlrrw

brushbuster said:


> I've been through the Gamut of all sorts of broadheads. I've had good results from many, I've had expandables open in flight so I stopped using them. I used Magnus 4 blade buzcutts for a few years. Killed a cow elk last year at 40 yards, blood every where and watched it go down. *One thing I don't like about the Magnus is I had to adjust my sights to shoot them.* This year I'm trying something different. I heard alot of good reviews about the ram cat Hydra shocks. I bought a pack of the 125s. Shot 3 arrows, one with a field point one with a Magnus buzz cut and one with the ram cat. The ramcats flew tight with the field point the Magnus flew 2 inches to the left shot after shot from 20- 50 yards. The ramcats will be in my quiver for a up coming bear hunt on the 1st of May. I want a good accurate shot that passes through. The ramcats will leave a 2 inch wound channel so if my shot is true I should have sufficient blood to follow. Wish me luck


Bold^^^ I had the same issue when I switched from expandables to the Magnus but my issue was my bow was out of tune


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## NovemberWhitetailz

Going to try some Iron Will Wide's this year. 2 1/8 total cutting surface and life time warranty. I've been a rage guy for years but the durability seems to be getting worse and worse so I made the switch to a fixed head to test.


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## Urriah

HUBBHUNTER2 said:


> Going to try some Iron Will Wide's this year. 2 1/8 total cutting surface and life time warranty. I've been a rage guy for years but the durability seems to be getting worse and worse so I made the switch to a fixed head to test.


I hunt on the ground too much to justify sending an Iron Will into the wild blue yonder after it sails through a doe lol


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## NovemberWhitetailz

Urriah said:


> I hunt on the ground too much to justify sending an Iron Will into the wild blue yonder after it sails through a doe lol


I hear ya there. They are expensive. But for my hunting style, I am junking 4 rage heads a year so after 2 seasons i'm saving money.


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## whiteymalone

bmoffit said:


> i used to use the montec but i just can’t get them sharp. That is a skill i just cannot master. That’s what got me to the slick tricks. Use em once and toss the blades and replace. I’m thinking of giving the exodus a try


I switched from Thunderheads to Montecs because the TH replacement blades were not as sharp as I would have liked them to be. I was wishing for sharpness like the old Savoras, the blades were packed with a melted wax like the kind that cheese has on it. They didn't rattle around in vials and dull themselves.

My method for getting Montecs sharp: Use the carbon steel version. Twenty light pressure circles on a fine diamond stone on each of the three sides. 100 light pressure circles on a piece of glass treated with fine rubbing compound. Spray the broadhead clean with brake cleaner. Dip a Q-tip in Vaseline and put the lightest coat you can on the sharpened bevels to prevent corrosion from dulling the head.


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## Urriah

whiteymalone said:


> I switched from Thunderheads to Montecs because the TH replacement blades were not as sharp as I would have liked them to be. I was wishing for sharpness like the old Savoras, the blades were packed with a melted wax like the kind that cheese has on it. They didn't rattle around in vials and dull themselves.
> 
> My method for getting Montecs sharp: Use the carbon steel version. Twenty light pressure circles on a fine diamond stone on each of the three sides. 100 light pressure circles on a piece of glass treated with fine rubbing compound. Spray the broadhead clean with brake cleaner. Dip a Q-tip in Vaseline and put the lightest coat you can on the sharpened bevels to prevent corrosion from dulling the head.


Qtip and Vaseline is a good idea! I'll try that on my traditional heads for sure. Those want to corrode real quickly.


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## bmoffit

Urriah said:


> One of the factors that intrigued me with the QAD was that while the blades are replaceable, they're also super heavy duty and easy to sharpen. Figured it's the best of both worlds. The one deer I did shoot with the QAD this year blew through and buried 10" in the dirt (deer trotted 40 yards then tipped over) and you couldn't even tell the broadhead had been shot at something. That's about the best review I can give a broadhead.
> 
> I will say that I would never plan on just throwing on new replacement blades of any variety without hand sharpening them myself. Doing a paper slice or rubber band test can be really eye opening as to how sharp blades are out of the box.


I’m gonna try the QADs this year and I’m gonna focus on learning to sharpen better. As with most things i know it will take some practice It did purchase the stay sharp tools

what is your method of sharpening?


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## Urriah

bmoffit said:


> I’m gonna try the QADs this year and I’m gonna focus on learning to sharpen better. As with most things i know it will take some practice It did purchase the stay sharp tools
> 
> what is your method of sharpening?


I use the stay sharp as well. Follow the instructions and you'll end up with some pretty wicked edges. I'll be using Magnus Black Hornets again this year, but I might play with some others.


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## bheary

bmoffit said:


> I’m gonna try the QADs this year and I’m gonna focus on learning to sharpen better. As with most things i know it will take some practice It did purchase the stay sharp tools
> 
> what is your method of sharpening?


Just watched a review on Fixed Blades. The QAD preformed the best on a deer shoulder in ballistic gel

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk


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## DEDGOOSE

Wow old thread.... Like mentioned shot placement is key... An old time once taught me quit aiming for the lungs or heart and aim for the Femoral Artery.... Ever since taking his advice I've never had a problem.with blood trails regardless of broadhead


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