# Counter top question



## jasonvanorder (Feb 23, 2009)

Ok so the wife wants to redo the kitchen. I say fine cause right now its just set up funny and really not that usefull. She wants me to make the counters out of oak no big deal. My question is what finish to use on them to seal and protect the wood but will also look good be durable and last. I know somebody on here has to know something about this. Thanks in advance


Jason


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Food grade Mineral Oil.

Before you spend a lot of time and money creating a solid wood counter top, check this out. They're not Oak but made of Maple, but are probably going to be cheaper than making it yourself.

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/endeca_search.cmd?keyword=butcher+block&x=13&y=8

Here's another link with info on treating wooden cutting boards, butcher blocks, and such. I don't see too many real wood counter tops, but I would think it could be treated the same way as a butcher block.

http://whatscookingamerica.net/CuttingBoards/AllAbout.htm

Good luck on the project!

John


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

It will sound funny to some, but an easy/cheap, readily available source for food and medicinal grade mineral oil is a .99 cent package of Fleet mineral oil enema! Lasts a years' worth of treatments on a 15" x 20" Boos Block.

Now come the jokes on working your butt off, etc... 

Another tip: After several years my block started a thin crack on one end...
A bit of melted canning paraffin, rubbed in, stopped the crack and has held up for many more years since.


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## Greenbush future (Sep 8, 2005)

Would any of you be concerned about wood without some kind of sealing finish, and keeping it germ free? That would be my biggest concern with oil sealed wood countertops.


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

Greenbush future said:


> Would any of you be concerned about wood without some kind of sealing finish, and keeping it germ free? That would be my biggest concern with oil sealed wood countertops.


IMO, The 2 kinds of finishes I'm aware of serve different needs...
Oil seals are used for cutting and work surfaces mostly...
A light scraping or sanding can rejuvenate the work surface...then reseal every month or so.
It can be sterilized with mild bleach, vinegar, peroxide...
In fact, I've heard the nature of the wood itself can be a deterrent to growth compared to some plastics.

One of those thin mylar or polycarbonate sheets can be used on top with wetter meats like liver, chicken or fish. Normal steps to avoid cross contamination as with any other activity in the kitchen.

Varnish or clear sealers are for looks and deeper wet protection, however they show scratches, scuffs and cuts.
Better looking finish and protection...Hard to refinish smaller areas to match.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

If I were to have a wooden counter top, I'd probably go with a mineral oil finish. But I wouldn't use it to cut on. I'd still use a good quality cutting board and have several. One for meats and one for other items. Maybe a couple sizes of each. 

That link I put in the last reply talks about wood and plastic cutting boards and their different issues. I like plastic cutting boards personally. But a nice solid wooden counter top would be just for looks and not be used as a cutting surface. But as Jimp pointed out, they're easy to restore to a like new condition if they do become scratched!

If you had the right kind of cabinets and such, the Cherry ones that Lumber Liquidators sell aren't that much more than the Maple ones and would be beautiful!

John


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## JimP (Feb 8, 2002)

jpollman said:


> If I were to have a wooden counter top, I'd probably go with a mineral oil finish. But I wouldn't use it to cut on. I'd still use a good quality cutting board and have several. One for meats and one for other items. Maybe a couple sizes of each.
> 
> That link I put in the last reply talks about wood and plastic cutting boards and their different issues. I like plastic cutting boards personally. But a nice solid wooden counter top would be just for looks and not be used as a cutting surface. But as Jimp pointed out, they're easy to restore to a like new condition if they do become scratched!
> 
> ...


Hey Fellas,
If you haven't been there:

I followed a link out of curiosity, found a deeper distributor for butcher block _*everything*_. Counter Tops, Islands, Tables, Boards, Maple, Oak, Walnut, Cherry...
A wide variety of stock sizes to 48" wide for islands, 12' long, cutouts for sinks, router edging...custom angles.

It's all made by Boos, they're darn good stuff.

Pricing doesn't seem too bad and shipping included..

http://www.butcherblockspecialist.com/index.html


.


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## Chewkodiak1217 (Jan 3, 2011)

Another option...

Envirotech Lite

I used this stuff to encase beer bottle caps for a bartop. It looks awesome and is very durable.

PM me if you use the product there are a few tips that I can pass along to take the guess work out of it.


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## mdad (Dec 4, 2007)

I have a 5' diameter maple top (3" thick) I would like to use outdoors as a picnic table. Any idea of what to use to protect it? Or just forget it for outdoors use and get granite.


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## Chewkodiak1217 (Jan 3, 2011)

Envirotech can be used outside after curing..

Just let the product "run" off the sides.

It will create "raindrops" on the sides but you can just sand them off. 

Make sure the table is perfectly level when pouring the product on, as the product is self leveling...


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