# Rubber O-rings for broadhead Tuning



## Nitro225Optimax

Hey Guys and Gals,

I went to Bass Pro last night to look for some rubber o-rings to place in between my broadheads and the crossbow bolt to tune the heads to the vanes. They didn't have any. Any clue on where to get some? The guy behind the counter said I could probably get some at ACE hardware or Lowes/Home Depot...any ideas? 


Thanks.


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## bersh

Nitro225Optimax said:


> Hey Guys and Gals,
> 
> I went to Bass Pro last night to look for some rubber o-rings to place in between my broadheads and the crossbow bolt to tune the heads to the vanes. They didn't have any. Any clue on where to get some? The guy behind the counter said I could probably get some at ACE hardware or Lowes/Home Depot...any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Any hardware or home improvement store will have o-rings, and chances are a lot cheaper than anything that is "archery specific" from a pro shop and you'll have choices for different thicknesses. Not sure on the diameter you'll need but they are cheap so try a couple that look close and go from there.

All that being said, if you're looking to index your blades to your vanes, if it makes you feel better by doing so it doesn't hurt anything, but studies in controlled conditions have shown that it doesn't make a difference.


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## mmowen01

how are o-rings used to achive broadhead blade alignment with your vanes?

I do agree that it shouldn't make a difference. The arrow might even fly better if the are not in alignment. 

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## Nitro225Optimax

Different thickness rubber o-rings can be used, or crushed while the broadhead is screwed in, to get the blades indexed. With my carbon arrows for my bow, it was never an issue because I just matched the broad head to the arrow and then set the insert with glue...all set. With crossbow bolts, majority of them come from the factory with the inserts already glued in, so I don't have that option. 



> All that being said, if you're looking to index your blades to your vanes, if it makes you feel better by doing so it doesn't hurt anything, but studies in controlled conditions have shown that it doesn't make a difference.


I think I would like to try this first before spending $50, $60 or more to switch broadheads. 

I am shooting muzzys and they are all over the place at 20yards, a good 12"+ pattern. I was told to either switch to mechanicals (which I won't do) or a shorter head that doesn't have such a long blade length. 

I'm open to input. Season is days away and I can't hit a deer at 20yards. I know it is the broadheads because I put field tips on and was shooting a 1" group at 20yards...same bolts...different heads.


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## mmowen01

What about getting the arrows re fletched with the vanes aligned with the broadhead blades? Maybe try numbering your arrows and marking what arrow made what hole. Then see if there is any pattern. 


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## bersh

Nitro225Optimax said:


> Different thickness rubber o-rings can be used, or crushed while the broadhead is screwed in, to get the blades indexed. With my carbon arrows for my bow, it was never an issue because I just matched the broad head to the arrow and then set the insert with glue...all set. With crossbow bolts, majority of them come from the factory with the inserts already glued in, so I don't have that option.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would like to try this first before spending $50, $60 or more to switch broadheads.
> 
> I am shooting muzzys and they are all over the place at 20yards, a good 12"+ pattern. I was told to either switch to mechanicals (which I won't do) or a shorter head that doesn't have such a long blade length.
> 
> I'm open to input. Season is days away and I can't hit a deer at 20yards. I know it is the broadheads because I put field tips on and was shooting a 1" group at 20yards...same bolts...different heads.


Honestly, if you're spraying groups that large with the muzzy, I'd guess there is a tuning, spine, or shooting form issue. If you've got all those set and still have issues, you might just have a setup that isn't happy with them. I used to shoot muzzy and for a couple previous bows they shot great, but my last bow just flat out didn't like them. It was paper tuned perfectly, and they actually grouped great, but consistently with a different POA than field points. I spent many hours messing around, broadhead tuning (as per instructions on this site and others), messing with shooting form, actually tried to index them, you name it. I finally threw in the towel and switched heads, but the point is that though they weren't hitting where I wanted, they did group very well. I haven't tried the muzzy yet with my new bow, but at this point I'm happy with what I'm shooting so no reason for me to switch back.

This isn't a knock on muzzy as I like that head a lot, and I have a buddy that shoots them and they hit dead nuts with his field points. He's had great luck with them over the years and was happy to buy mine from me.


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## Sabre03

remember, the broadhead will magnify all problems. if your o-ring solution does not work, make sure your bow is properly tuned and the arrow spine is correct. if all this checks out and you still aren't shooting good try slick tricks, I've not seen a single bow or crossbow that would not shoot them accurate. package of 3 is like 28 bucks at bass pro shop. all my hunting buddies have made the switch with no problems.


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## mmowen01

I do not have any experience with crossbows. Is there such a thing as tuning them? Are there different spine crossbow bolts? Is shooting form an issue with a crossbow? I know this is all true about a vertical compound bow.


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## Nitro225Optimax

I want to make sure you gentlemen that are responding, talking about form, this is out of a crossbow off of a bench rest. 

I was told to try the slick tricks as well...BP had a nice package of 175grain ones with a 1 1/16" cutting dia, I liked them...might give them a try if these don't work. I only need 30 yards and with the speed the crossbow is shooting, 175grain heads should do just fine out to that distance.


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## bersh

Nitro225Optimax said:


> I want to make sure you gentlemen that are responding, talking about form, this is out of a crossbow off of a bench rest.
> 
> I was told to try the slick tricks as well...BP had a nice package of 175grain ones with a 1 1/16" cutting dia, I liked them...might give them a try if these don't work. I only need 30 yards and with the speed the crossbow is shooting, 175grain heads should do just fine out to that distance.


Sorry - missed that little important nugget in your first post. I guess it still stands though for everyone else that is shooting a bow.


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## Sabre03

I don't think form has anything to do with this problem, I think it's a tuning issue, or a spine issue. did someone set you up with these bolts? I have a excalibur crossbow and I can group my broadheads and field points out to 45 yards no problem. you need to match the grain of your broadhead to the spine of your bolt, to your bow. all 3 affect 1 another and have to be matched accordingly so they all work together.


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## Nitro225Optimax

They are the bolts that came with the crossbow. The thing I can't figure out is, the only thing that changed is this is a new batch of broadheads. I shot the same weight muzzys last year and had no problems, out of the same bow. Bad batch of muzzys? Now, the same bolt will hit near the same spot every time. Maybe it's time for a new set of bolts and heads? Wife will love that one.


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## Sabre03

do you still have last year's heads, throw them on and see what happens. your now may be out of tune from string stretch too.


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## Nitro225Optimax

I thought it might be in need of a new string at first as well, but then the same bolts with just field points stack right on top of each other. I do not have the heads from last year, they were all chewed up from hitting bone and such, hence needing a new package. I'll try these rings and then see if I need new broadheads.


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## Sabre03

I would give that a try first, but keep in mind you could have a crossbow that is slightly out of tune that will shoot fieldpoints perfect but the broadheads will magnify that out of tune problem. that's what I love about excalibur no cams to mess with and I can change the string and tune the bowmyself at home


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## bersh

Nitro225Optimax said:


> I thought it might be in need of a new string at first as well, but then the same bolts with just field points stack right on top of each other. I do not have the heads from last year, they were all chewed up from hitting bone and such, hence needing a new package. I'll try these rings and then see if I need new broadheads.


Maybe trying weighing the field points and the new muzzy heads? What the package says and reality might be two different things.


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## Sabre03

are you shooting the correct grain head that the manufacturer recommended for that bolt/crossbow combo? keep in mind you could have a crossbow that is slightly out of tune that will shoot fieldpoints perfect but the broadheads will magnify that out of tune problem


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## Nitro225Optimax

Yes. The manufacturer (Barnett) recommends Muzzy 3-blade in 125grain, but after reading the FAQ, I notice it says with O-RING. Well, there I have it...try the o-ring and if that doesn't work, back to the drawing board. Being that I have shots high and low more frequently than left or right, I tend to think it is a planing issue with the heads.


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## MossyHorns

I have my son shooting 100 gr Grimm Reaper mechanicals out of his Barnett Wildcat and they fly exactly like the field points at 20, 30 and 40 yards.


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## Nitro225Optimax

I picked up some O-rings from Home Depot. #47 and #60's. The 47's are 7/32"ID and 11/32"OD and the 60's are 1/8"ID and 1/4"OD. Both are 1/16" thick. They cost $2.27 for a pack of ten. The 47's are a little larger than the ferrule of the head and slip on very easy, the issue is the OD, when installed and compressed, they protrude out beyond the ferrule and bolt shaft by at least a 1/16". I can see that slowing down penetration a little bit, etc. The 60's are a smaller ID than the ferrule and must be somewhat stretched to put on. After getting them on and compressed, they are flush with the ferrule and bolt shaft, look much cleaner. My concerns are how will they hold up in cold temps and repeated shooting. Will they break or crack? I got them in the plumbing section, so they should be made with a compound to handle temp changes. I guess I will find out.


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