# Plumbing Exhaust Pipe Question



## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Ok, bear with me as my "plumbing terminology" is not so great...

I completely gutted the bathroom down to the studs last night, but the main pipe that runs from my basement all the way through my roof has got me wondering??? Can I just cut this 3" cast iron pipe out and replace it with PVC? Would I have to "patch together" sections until I got it out through the roof? The picture below is from the basement, that goes up to the bathroom and then up through the roof. Can I just cut that out in sections and replace it?? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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## dead short (Sep 15, 2009)

My parents replaced all their sewer lines from their upstairs down into the basement and vent with PVC. They were doing an upstairs bathroom and kitchen redo. I'm pretty sure they used a collar that clamps to the cast pipe that was left and goes to PVC. 


Posted from my iPhone.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

dead short said:


> My parents replaced all their sewer lines from their upstairs down into the basement and vent with PVC. They were doing an upstairs bathroom and kitchen redo. I'm pretty sure they used a collar that clamps to the cast pipe that was left and goes to PVC.
> 
> 
> Posted from my iPhone.


Kinda what I was thinking, I've seen how that collar works, I'm just wonderin what I'm in for if I just start "sawzallin'"...:lol:


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

Yer in fer a trip to the scrap yard. cast weighs a ton.steel pays 7 cents a pound. The collar is pretty self explanatory. schedule 40 3 inch is $10/stick. Just bought some. Fittings are $2-5.I helped a neighbor whose schedule 30 vent stack collapsed. It splintered the stack back about 5 feet. Probably was not supported properly. The roof boot was wasted and leaking. Plan on replacing that too. This was on a 15 year old home. 

http://www.ehow.com/how_12203941_replace-cast-iron-main-sewer-line-pvc.html


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## Hookineyezz (Sep 11, 2008)

double trouble said:


> Yer in fer a trip to the scrap yard. cast weighs a ton.steel pays 7 cents a pound. The collar is pretty self explanatory. schedule 40 3 inch is $10/stick. Just bought some. Fittings are $2-5.I helped a neighbor whose schedule 30 vent stack collapsed. It splintered the stack back about 5 feet. Probably was not supported properly. The roof boot was wasted and leaking. Plan on replacing that too. This was on a 15 year old home.
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_12203941_replace-cast-iron-main-sewer-line-pvc.html


7 cents? Im getting 10, and thats from the cheap guy close to my house!


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

I get ripped off. They are close.


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## plugger (Aug 8, 2001)

I would leave the cast, it's quiet. I would put your time and money into relacing the galvinized supply with copper or pex.


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## N M Mechanical (Feb 7, 2008)

Replace it all
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

N M Mechanical said:


> Replace it all
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


I think that's what I'd do. Cut the cast pipe off about three or four inches above the floor and use a Fernco to connect to the new PVC.


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## swampbuck (Dec 23, 2004)

If your really lucky you MIGHT get enough money out of the cast iron to pay for all the sawzall blades your going to trash trying to cut it...:lol:


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

I read it but it didn't even sink in that he wants to Sawzall that pipe. If I were you, I think I'd head to the rental yard and rent an iron pipe breaker. It's going to be a nightmare cutting that stuff with a Sawzall. Especially with as many cuts as he's going to have to make.


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## dead short (Sep 15, 2009)

Posted from my iPhone.


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## Quack Addict (Aug 10, 2006)

It's definitely a job you want to borrow your buddy's sawzall for.

An iron pipe breaker? That sounds like work. Just drop an M80 down the pipe. Same result, just faster. :lol:


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## double trouble (Nov 20, 2003)

I have a metabo with your name all over it. 

Harbor freight has one for $20 with a bunch of metal blades. Much faster and easier than a sawzall. Just remember the face shield.


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## salmonslammer (Jan 28, 2001)

I had to cut mine... pondered all of the above methods.

Borrowed my buddys chain cutter.... only to cut cast IMO. Sure you could rent one for what it would cost ya for a diamond tipped sawzall blade ($20).

Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Thanks for all the replies fella's. 

1. Yes, it is ALL going. Replacing with Pex and PVC. 
2. I think I can break most of this pipe by hand... :lol:


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

jpollman said:


> I think that's what I'd do. Cut the cast pipe off about three or four inches above the floor and use a Fernco to connect to the new PVC.


You're talking about a regular 3 to 3 Fernco, correct? Nothing special right?


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Yep, that should do it.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Ok, I was wrong again. A sawzall isn't getting through that beeeeyotch!! Not with a normal metal blade anyway,,, is there a type of blade I can buy that will cut through that? Or maybe a wheel for my disc-grinder that will shoot through galvalnized? 

Home Depot doesn't rent those chain pipe-cutters...


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## POLARBEAR (May 13, 2002)

If you didnt watch that video you may want to. The guy shows you most of the ways possible to cut that pipe. 

What about the rental shop where you get your propane tanks filled on ford rd? do they have that chain pipe cutter?

Can you take a pic of the place you are trying to cut it? That may help.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

POLARBEAR said:


> If you didnt watch that video you may want to. The guy shows you most of the ways possible to cut that pipe.
> 
> What about the rental shop where you get your propane tanks filled on ford rd? do they have that chain pipe cutter?
> 
> Can you take a pic of the place you are trying to cut it? That may help.


I'm actually cutting this thing in about 4 places, starting in the upstairs crawl space.

That rental place might have one of those chain cutters, I think I'm gonna head to Home Depot and grab some carbide saw blades first though.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Even if it's a little drive, it would be worth it to find a rental yard with a chain cutter. It's well worth it. I've used them and it makes the job MUCH easier! I bet the rental cost won't be much more than the cost of Sawzall blades. And a LOT less work!


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## N M Mechanical (Feb 7, 2008)

We use the blades for cast iron and the sawzall
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## PLUMMER47 (Dec 9, 2006)

Just use these and be done with it. http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Category.aspx?category=SPECIALTY

We only cut new cast iron pipe with chain breaks, as all too often cast becomes brittle and can crush, thus leaving a not so straight cut. Or worse yet , it likes to make hairline cracks because its so brittle. And you can't see them unless you know how to test for hairline cracks. You'll find them the hard way when its all back together and being tested. By using an abrasive wheel or diamond cutting tool , it does not shock the pipe and risk creating a hairline crack. Those lennox blades are the ONLY diamond sawzall blades that will work, and it should take 1 minute or less to make 1 cut thru 4" cast iron pipe. Be careful with them and they will make at least 20 cuts before they wear out. An abrasive wheel will work but it takes longer and you have to buy the good ones. An angle grinder with a diamond wheel is the 2nd best choice for good quick quality cuts, even on the worst condition pipe. Don't forget there is most likely a tee in the wall for a sink on that line as well.


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## William H Bonney (Jan 14, 2003)

Cutting that cast was actually a little easier than I thought (with the correct blades). I just grabbed some Old Mil. diamond cast blades from Home Depot, they zipped right through it. 

I did go to the rental shop and grabbed a chain cutter as well,, for spots I couldn't get the saw into... Those chain cutters are the catsass! 

Now onto the electrical issue.


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

William H Bonney said:


> I did go to the rental shop and grabbed a chain cutter as well,, for spots I couldn't get the saw into... *Those chain cutters are the catsass!
> *



Told ya!


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## jpollman (Jan 14, 2001)

Glad to hear the specialty blades for cast iron worked well. My neighbor across the street is in the process of moving his laundry from the basement to the first floor. He has a closet space that's plenty big enough for a stacked apartment size washer and dryer. He's doing most of the work himself but he asked me to give him a hand with some of it. He's got the drywall removed in the area where the pluming is at. He's lucky because there's a half bath right next to the closet where he's putting the washer/dryer. The water supply lines are right there and he just has to cut each line and install a T, stub it out and he's got his supply. The drain line is 3" cast iron. There's a no-hub connector just below where he has to cut that line to install a PVC T which will give him his laundry drain. The cast iron T for the bathroom drain is just below that. So I don't think he needs to worry about a vent or anything because it's already there from the bathroom. We just need to make one cut in the PVC. Then remove that piece and put in a PVC T and a Fernco and he's all set. I'll tell him to pick up one of those blades and we should be good to go.

John


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