# Poured Epoxy Table Top



## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm building a kitchen island. I want to use epoxy on it.Watched all the youtube videos and such. Would like to hear from someone who has actually used it. Is it as easy as it seems? Does it run out to level as they show in the videos? What about the bubbles that form? Hair dryer or propane torch or heat gun? etc, etc, etc. Thanks!


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## Fishndude (Feb 22, 2003)

I've never built a table top with epoxy, but I used to laminate for a living. Epoxy is a liquid - UNTIL it sets up. The "pot life" is very important to know, since 1 minute can make a ton of difference. Since it is a liquid, it does seek it's level.  Once you mix the epoxy thoroughly (if you think you mixed it enough, mix it the same amount longer - seriously), let it sit for a minute to allow bubbles to rise. Some will pop. Others will pop once you have applied it to your surface. Most will pop, but as the cure begins, some will still remain. Some epoxies are less likely to bubble than others. Epoxy cures with an endothermic reaction - it produces heat as it cures. Applying heat will speed the cure, but you need to be careful to apply heat evenly, so you don't have cured patches, and uncured patches. Without adding heat, it will cure on its own, and that cure is usually better than a heat-added cure. But it takes longer. I wouldn't hit epoxy with a blowtorch, but a heat gun might work alright. A blow dryer would work well, too. Adding some heat will thin the epoxy, and cause bubbles to burst, then fill. 

If you are serious about this, read up about the right type of epoxy to use, and experiment with it on something you aren't going to use, first. Get to know how to mix it (mechanical mixing is far superior to hand mixing), how to apply it, how long the pot life is (how long you can work with it before it starts to set up), and how long it will take to fully cure. And see how to apply it best without bubbles. Good epoxy work can be a thing of beauty. Poor epoxy work is just a mess. 

I did fiberglass/epoxy laminating, so what I did was quite a bit different from what you are describing. West System has a lot of epoxies for many different applications. The Gougeons design their own resins, and hardeners, and have pioneered epoxy for decades. They support their products well.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks dude! Appreciate the reply. But I am not laminating. I have a table top I built and want to apply an epoxy layer finish to the top. Like on a bar top. Finish looks like it's about 2 inches thick even though it's about an eighth inch thick. I'm aware of The West System by the Gouegon Brothers ( grew up in Bay City) but that is not what I'm looking for. I need a clear finish. You need the heat or blow torch or heat gun to pop the bubbles as they form. I know I can do it. I just need someone to tell me it's not that hard! lol Thanks again.


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

I did a 16' x20" wide pine bar top with natural edge on one side for our lodge at camp. I wanted to do an epoxy top in the worst way, but didn't have the guts to tackle that big of a top. 


I ended up using a good varnish instead and it came out great. I filled a couple knots with Gugeon Epoxy and 8-10 coats of varnish. 

If you decided to go that way I'd highly recommend the below product. It's expensive, but the top is 6-7 years old now and looks like the day I first did it. No scratches or water spots like you'd get with polyurethane. 

Good stuff. 


http://www.rockler.com/behlen-rockh..._campaign=PL&gclid=CL_8mMG50r0CFcg7MgodrjcAPQ


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## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

On my to try list

http://uscomposites.com/epoxy.html


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

bucko12pt said:


> I did a 16' x20" wide pine bar top with natural edge on one side for our lodge at camp. I wanted to do an epoxy top in the worst way, but didn't have the guts to tackle that big of a top.
> 
> 
> I ended up using a good varnish instead and it came out great. I filled a couple knots with Gugeon Epoxy and 8-10 coats of varnish.
> ...


Thanks bucko. I do have a couple of knots and cracks to fill. This will be in the kitchen and will take some abuse from plates and hardware and guests not knowing you can't just throw your keys on it etc. lol I know I'm being anal but I've been working on this all winter and I just want it to look good for a little bit! It's a live edge 3 inch thick Pine top. I think I need something durable. Pine is soft.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

limige said:


> On my to try list
> 
> http://uscomposites.com/epoxy.html


I've seen that product also! Have you tried it? That is more like I'm thinking. I've seen it on line only.


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## limige (Sep 2, 2005)

No I havent but looks like the right stuff for the job.

Buy a small amount and try it on some scrap wood


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

2508speed said:


> Thanks bucko. I do have a couple of knots and cracks to fill. This will be in the kitchen and will take some abuse from plates and hardware and guests not knowing you can't just throw your keys on it etc. lol I know I'm being anal but I've been working on this all winter and I just want it to look good for a little bit! It's a live edge 3 inch thick Pine top. I think I need something durable. Pine is soft.


I did a pine table and also pine countertops in my cabin with the same finish. They've got a few dings and dents in the past 12 years, but I figure that's just part if the character of the pieces.


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## vampile (Nov 4, 2008)

I helped my dad do one years and years ago in Florida. It was not horrible. Get all your ducks in a row when you are ready to do it. Practice on some scrap if you can because if you mess it up, the whole thing is pretty much toast. Any imperfection will be magnified once you put the epoxy down. You dont want ANY dust or lint on the wood beforehand. Mix it really well and then mix it some more. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Ohub Campfire mobile app


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

Will be doing some more sanding tomorrow. Still haven't decided on finish yet.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

bucko12pt said:


> I did a 16' x20" wide pine bar top with natural edge on one side for our lodge at camp. I wanted to do an epoxy top in the worst way, but didn't have the guts to tackle that big of a top.
> 
> 
> I ended up using a good varnish instead and it came out great. I filled a couple knots with Gugeon Epoxy and 8-10 coats of varnish.
> ...


Did you thin it at all? Some reviews say to thin the first few coats and then full strength for final couple coats. Top is about 22 sq. ft.


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

2508speed said:


> Did you thin it at all? Some reviews say to thin the first few coats and then full strength for final couple coats. Top is about 22 sq. ft.


Yeah I thinned the first few coats so it would penetrate the wood, then used straight from the can after that. It dries super fast, so you can't mess around 
once you start a coat. 

I used this product because it's old fashioned varnish and is a really good and durable finish. At the time I did my projects they only had a gloss finish. I see they have a satin finish now, which I would have used instead.

I couldn't find it locally, so I bought it online, don't remember where. I see Amazon has it.


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

2508speed said:


> Did you thin it at all? Some reviews say to thin the first few coats and then full strength for final couple coats. Top is about 22 sq. ft.


My table was about 21sft, the countertop was about 25 sft and the bar top was about 26 sft. I think I used about a quart on each project. 

Not sure where you live, but our camp, lodge and my cabin are in Kalkaska Co if you wanted to see what they look like. I hope to be able to get in there next week.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks, I prefer satin too. I live in Rosco. County. Close to where Kalkaska, Roscommon, Crawford, and, Missaukee come together. Higgins Lake area.


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## bucko12pt (Dec 9, 2004)

Our camp is in Sharon, PM me if interested.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks Bucko. I 'm experimenting right now on the bottom of the top. Saw a video on wipr on Min Wax poly. Between coats you sand, I'm using 600 grit, but you wet sand if you will with the poly if you know what I mean! I sure don't! lol So far I've wet sanded 1 time and then applied 1 coat of wipe on. So far so good! If it works out I'll put 5 or 6 coats on. If not I'll turn it over and try something different. One day I'll learn how to post pictures.


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## WAUB-MUKWA (Dec 13, 2003)

vampile said:


> I helped my dad do one years and years ago in Florida. It was not horrible. Get all your ducks in a row when you are ready to do it. Practice on some scrap if you can because if you mess it up, the whole thing is pretty much toast. Any imperfection will be magnified once you put the epoxy down. You dont want ANY dust or lint on the wood beforehand. Mix it really well and then mix it some more.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Ohub Campfire mobile app


The word here is mix and not agitate. You cannot agitate varnish or polyurathane or epoxy. It will cause bubbles more than it has naturally. I always see people shake a can of varnish up and shake my head.


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## 2508speed (Jan 6, 2011)

You're right MUKWA. BUT the big BUT if you pour the epoxy you have to burst the bubbles as they rise. Using a torch or heat gun or hair dryer. I am a show me how person! I can do poly or varnish with the best of them, but I have never done the poured epoxy. Watch the youtube videos. I'm afraid of temperature, dust, and noseums! I know , that's the way I am! lol


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